Red, White and Drunk All Over
Media Interviews
O Canada!
By Natalie MacLean
What better way to celebrate the Olympics than by drinking Canadian wines? Choice isn’t a problem with more than 400 wineries in eight provinces. But it’s the quality of Canadian wines, rather than the quantity, will convince you that they are the ideal complement to this sporting event.
Canada has a long history with the grape. Viking explorer Lief Erickson first named the country "Vineland" in 1001 BCE when he saw so many vines growing in Newfoundland.
Although the classic vitus vinifera grapes such as cabernet sauvignon and chardonnay do not grow in the province, blueberries, cloudberries, lingoberries, or partridge berries, are the basis for three wineries making fruit wines. These wines exhibit a fresh berry character with bright acidity, making them great accompaniments to lobster dinners and other fish dishes. Try the Rodrigues Markland Cottage Winery Patridgeberry/Lingoberry Wine and serve it chilled. Rodrigues Markland wines, which are all certified kosher, are available in Newfoundland, Ontario and Alberta.
Moving west, Nova Scotia wineries make wines during a growing season that is shorter and cooler than those in Ontario and British Columbia. Therefore, vintners use winter hardy grapes such as marèchal foch (a cross between pinot noir and gamay grapes), de chaunac, seyval blanc and vidal blanc as well as German varietals such as riesling and gewürztraminer. Jost Vineyards, located on the Northumberland Strait in Malagash, has won many medals in international wine competitions. The Jost Vineyards Marèchal Foch has dark fruit aromas that pair well with barbecued hamburgers topped with salsa or a seared pepper-encrusted steak. The wine is available in Nova Scotia, New Brunswick and Manitoba.
Rossignol Estate Winery is the only wine producer on Prince Edward Island. Its fruit and table wines are bottled with labels bearing the artwork of Nancy Perkins, a P.E.I artist, and John Rossingol, the win The seyval blanc and marèchal foch wines won two silver medals at the Intervin International Awards for Wine Achievement in New York while the fruit wines have also received recognition in competition. Try the Rossignol Estate Winery Strawberry Rhubarb made from lightly pressed fruit that is aged for a year to make this sweet amber wine. It drinks well as an aperitif or as a pie-in-a-glass dessert on its own.
With its cold climate, Quebec is traditionally known for producing fine maple syrup, not fine wine. However, about 75 wineries produce wine, ninety percent of which is white wine, mostly seyval blanc. About half of Quebec’s wine is produced in the Eastern Townships, eighty kilometers southeast of Montreal, where there are more hours of sunshine on average than the rest of the province. The province’s winemaking heritage goes back to 1535 when French explorer Jacques Cartier found so many grapes growing on Ile d’Orleans that he named it Ile de Bacchus after the Greek god of wine.
Vignoble du Marathonien Cuvée Spéciale, a blend of cayuga, seyal blanc and vidal grapes, has a floral and orange peel aroma similar to the muscat grape. It goes well with chicken dishes and other white meat with sweet sauces. Vignoble de l’Orpailleur’s Vin Blanc, made from seyval blanc, is a dry white wine with an intense green apple nose and a hint of honey. Drink it with shellfish, white meat and mild cheeses. Both wineries have won medals at international wine competitions.
Ontario’s premier wine regions, Niagara Peninsula, Lake Erie North Shore and Pelee Island and Prince Edward County, are on the same latitude as those of Burgundy, France; Chianti, Italy; and Rioja, Spain. The cool climate enables vintners in Ontario along with those in B.C. and Quebec to be the largest ice wine producers in the world. Although both Germany and Austria are large ice wine producers, their climates are not as consistently cold as is Canada’s to guarantee ice wine production every year. Canada produces over 2 million 375ml bottles of ice wine annually. The average price of $45/bottle in Canada will go as high as $225 in Japan.
When the Niagara winery Inniskillin won France’s 1991 Grand Prix d'Honneur for its icewine, the world started to take note of Canadian wine. To win this vinous Nobel Prize, Inniskillin competed against 4,100 wines. While icewines may be made in the winter, they drink well year-round and most of Ontario’s wineries make them. Their sweetness allows them to go with the sweetest of summer desserts. Most are sold in the half bottle size (375 ml), so a bottle can easily be shared by two. Try Inniskillin Vidal Icewine and Hillebrand Trius Vidal Icewine. Also try Inniskillin Sparkling Vidal Icewine, which has an effervescence that softens the perception of sweetness on the palate, allowing these wines to complement a wider range of foods such as veined cheese, nuts and fruit desserts.
In addition to sweet and sparkling wines, Ontario produces a wide range of red and white still wines. Cave Spring Riesling is crisp, refreshing white wine that is among the most food friendly, pairing easily with most summer dishes. Henry of Pelham Baco Noir has long been known as a benchmark for this varietal red wine with a plummy palate that stands up to grilled and charred meats. Stoney Ridge Cabernet Franc, with a spicy bell pepper nose, also drinks well with barbecued meats.
Banach Winery in North Battleford, Saskatchewan’s only winery, produces fruit wines based cranapple, strawberry, black cherry and raspberry. The Banach Winery Sir Walter is made from fresh raspberries with medium sweetness balanced with a touch of tart acidity. It goes well with raspberry and other fruit desserts, and served slightly chilled, it makes a lovely sipping wine for long summer evenings.
British Columbia hosts the largest grape growing region after Ontario with about a hundred wineries in the Fraser Valley, Vancouver Island, Similkameen Valley and Okanagan Valley which produces most of the province’s wine. The lakes and geography within these regions moderate temperatures and provide an excellent microclimate for grape growing.
For some pleasantly unusual and aromatic white wines, try the Mission Hill Chenin Blanc or the Sumac Ridge Pinot Blanc. The province also grows wonderfully rich, fruity red wines such as the Calona Heritage Collection Merlot and Okanagan Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon. B.C.’s wines have also won numerous awards in international competition.
In addition to tasting Canadian wine, why not visit one of our wine regions? Most of the wineries are nestled in spectacular settings, and they pair wonderfully well with local cuisine, making the trip a gastronomic delight.
You can find the largest online directory of Canadian wines here:
Canadian Wineries
December 2009
Sommelier Journal
By Ben Weinberg
To assist both professionals and novices in pairing food with wines and other beverages, Natalie MacLean, publisher of North America’s largest wine e-newsletter (as well as the website NatalieMacLean.com), now offers the Nat Decants Food & Drink Matcher widget. It’s compatible with multiple platforms, including computer desktops, websites, blogs, and social media such as Facebook, MySpace, and iGoogle; there’s also a smartphone application for iPhone, iPod Touch, or BlackBerry devices.
The software comes in two sizes to fit various Internet and mobile operating systems. Once installed, it can be quickly searched for drinks to pair with meats, pastas, seafood, vegetarian dishes, pizzas, take-out food, sauces, herbs, cheese, and desserts. Working from the other direction, a user can find dishes to go with wine, cocktails, liqueurs, beer, spirits, cider, coffee, tea, and even water.
Installation of the software was a three-click breeze, and I found it easy to use, with a clean, intuitive look and feel. The interface is entirely menu-driven, meaning I couldn’t input any choices other than those provided by MacLean. But the menu was highly inclusive, with literally thousands of places to start. I found the suggested pairings well written and concise; clicking on a match brought up a page from MacLean’s website that provided links to additional resources. My only quibble was that I wasn’t always able to return to the previous page or start a new search.
In addition to the software’s obvious relevance to restaurant wine service, it can be used by bloggers and wine clubs, retail stores, wineries, restaurants, and culinary schools. The widget is a free download available on MacLean’s website.
990 AM Radio New Orleans
November 26, 2007
By Tim McNally
Natalie MacLean, a real dynamite of a person, full of energy, enthusiasm, and solid viewpoints, graciously gave us some of her time and discussed food and wine pairings.
Such matters are only of casual importance to about 85% of the general population, but if you are near a wine person, then those decisions about what wine to have with what foods take on higher importance.
It is particularly difficult if you don’t really understand the difference between a fruit-driven Cabernet Sauvignon and a big, full-of-alcohol-and-fruit Zinfandel. Nor do you really care, but someone near you, whom you love very much and want to please, is well aware of the characteristics. Yet you may be the one who is choosing the Holiday Menu, and they will be guests in your home.
So, Natalie has created a really simple and straight-forward chart that takes a lot of the guesswork out of the right wine to have with the dinner. It’s really a blessing for good hosts and hostesses who want to make Holiday feasting a treat for all in attendance.
Simply head to www.nataliemaclean.com, and note the Food and Wine Pairings link in the right-hand margin. Then choose your menu item, and she will make numerous suggestions as to the wine that works.
While you are on the site, sign up for her free monthly newsletter. Even if you do not have a deep passion for wine, it’s a very entertaining missive and I think you will enjoy reading it.
Her book, Red, White, and Drunk All Over, can be obtained at Barnes & Noble and at www.amazon.com.
ABC News
November 13, 2009
By Michelle Locke
What you want: A holiday get-together with friends over a cheering glass of wine. What you don't want: A budget deeper in the red than an old vine zin.
The answer may be in the box.
Once the runt of the wine world, boxed wines have come a long way, says Natalie MacLean, author of the Internet wine newsletter Nat Decants.
"Get over your hang-ups about boxed wine being plonk. It's a great way to go with a large party," she says.
Today's boxed wines are mostly sold in 3-liter containers, the equivalent of four bottles. And while the quality's gone up, prices remain reasonable.
Fish Eye from The Wine Group in San Francisco, for instance, is $16 a box, which works out to $4 a bottle. How do they do that?
"We've put all of our money into the wine and not into the package," says Laurie Jones, Wine Group spokeswoman.
Of course, price isn't the only consideration when choosing wine. You also want something that will complement, rather than overwhelm your meal. And this time of year, everyone is looking for the right wine for the big bird.
Pinot noir is the classic accompaniment for Thanksgiving turkey — you want to stay away from heavy tannins, such as a hearty cabernet sauvignon, Sbrocco says. Herding Cats Merlot-Pinotage from South Africa is a fine choice. It comes in a 3-liter box from Underdog Wines and is about $16.
Also try French Rabbit pinot noir, from Boisset Family Estates, which comes in a 1-liter Tetra Pak (juice-box style packaging), for around $10.
Whites can be right, too, especially if you want a wine that not only does justice to the turkey, but also all the sweet and spicy trimmings that make up the traditional Thanksgiving feast.
Look for aromatic, dry whites, such as a pinot grigio or maybe a viognier, says Leslie Sbrocco, a frequent wine judge and author of "Wine for Women." Target's Wine Cube pinot grigio, available in a 3-liter box for $17.99, is a good choice here.
Though boxes have largely shed their rube cube image, it can't be denied that there's something just a bit inelegant about slapping a big box down on the buffet.
Sure, it says party, but it sounds more like "Part-tay."
To which we say one word: carafe.
The advantage of boxes is the plastic bag inside which contains the wine. The bag doesn't let in air, which means the wines can stay fresh for six weeks after opening without going in the fridge.
But just before drinking, a bit of a breather is a good thing for wines, boxed or otherwise. Decanting into a carafe or other reasonably attractive glass jug makes host and wine look a little better.
ABE Books
September 28, 2006
Wining and Writing
“People think I have the best job in the world,” laughs Natalie Maclean – one of North America’s leading wine writers and the author of Red, White and Drunk All Over. “They think I’m drunk all day.”
In the not-too-distant past, Natalie’s life revolved around the Internet industry and speaking at trade fairs across America as a “web evangelist” for a California-based computer firm but wine was always her passion.
“When I was working in California, I’d spend all day on the show floor and then I'd pack up and head off to Napa Valley to find the wines and visit vineyards,” she said. “I went on maternity leave in 1998 and in a sleep-deprived state I decided that I should give it all up and become a wine writer.
“Now I can’t imagine doing anything else. I have a job that involves sensory pleasure, and I engage my mind and my body when I’m writing about wine.”
Natalie started by writing freelance articles about wine for magazines but her knowledge of the Web was to prove extremely useful.
“I firmly believe in the Internet and after getting some articles published I e-mailed them to people whom I knew were interested in wine and what I was doing,” she said. “As you know, the Internet is very organic – at first I was e-mailing to 50 people and then it was 200 people and now I have an e-mail newsletter that goes to 53,000 people.”
The e-newsletter, called Nat Decants, is free and its wide distribution and popularity has helped to put her on the wine writing map – and drive countless paid writing assignments her way from magazines around the world. Anyone can sign up for Nat Decants by visiting www.nataliemaclean.com.
At the 2003 World Food Media Awards in Australia, Natalie was named the World's Best Drink Writer ahead of 1,000 other writers. Her articles have appeared in more than sixty newspapers and magazines, including the Chicago Tribune and BusinessWeek.
Red, White and Drunk All Over: A Wine-Soaked Journey from Grape to Glass recaps her adventures in the world of wine and is much more than a series of recommendations for wine lovers. It is a memoir of Natalie’s experiences and adventures as she dives head first into all aspects of wine – from picking grapes to marketing the wine to flogging bottles in a retail store to pouring it out as a sommelier in a fancy restaurant. Even her own dinner party is dissected as she frets over the wine to accompany each course and what her guests are thinking.
She bumps along in pickup trucks driving from vineyard to vineyard across California and explores the legendary vineyards of France – each time trying to get involved as much as possible.
“I love to participate – it makes for a more interesting story,” said Natalie, who shares a bottle of wine every night with her husband over dinner and has 800 bottles stored in her cellar. “If there’s an adventure to be had, I want to do it.
“The book is aimed at two kinds of people. Firstly, the people who watched the movie, Sideways, and loved it, and want to know more about wine and be entertained at the same time. Secondly, I want to reach the wine expert who is already confident and knowledgeable about wine, but wants to be entertained by learning more about the people and places in the world of wine that they already know.
“Wine writers and wine critics are quite different. I’m a wine writer and what I do is much more than recommendations. I use wine as an excuse to get into peoples’ lives. I use wine as a way of traveling and seeing people.
“My heart belongs to the Old World wines like pinot noir. I appreciate that the approach of winemakers in North America is different. The wine culture is much younger here. However, when I went to France I fell in love with the people, the countryside and the wine sent me to heaven.
“I use simple descriptions when writing about a wine – I think long colorful descriptions are not helpful. Some people are talking about all sorts of fruits and things – I just don’t get that from a glass. I try to be practical and look for interesting narrative that I can get behind. I want to reach out to people who share my passion for wine – after all wine is about a buzz and hedonism.”
Akron Beacon Journal
November 8, 2007
By Tricia Colianne
The Akron Beacon Journal published the same story as the New Jersey Star-Ledger.
Alibi
May 8, 2008
By Joseph Baca
For too long, oenology (een-ology, the study of wine) was considered off-limits to the average American consumer. Wine knowledge was a carefully guarded male stronghold of stuffy sommeliers, grumpy English professors with big, red noses and the wealthy. But in the late ’80s and early ’90s, the wine industry began selling its products in the United States with a more inclusive approach.
A methodical marketing scheme began with easily understood White Zinfandel. Wineries started selling people on Chardonnay and then Merlot, varietals that were easy to drink, whose names had a ring of sophistication. People took notice. It was a one-two punch, and consumers were knocked out by wine and its mystique.
The Internet picked up remaining slack in informing people in the U.S. what the rest of the world already knew—wine is for everyone. Wine sales and the pursuit of wine knowledge increased exponentially. Suddenly people from all walks of life were speaking authoritatively about wine.
During this foment over fermented grape juice, one group was particularly successful in getting its foot in the door and storming the wine industry: women. They've become an influential force in wine consumption and production (which, by the way, has surpassed beer in sales). Studies show that women purchase about 65 percent of the wine consumed in the U.S., but Elizabeth Thach, a PhD and professor of wine business and management at Sonoma State University, believes women in the U.S. purchase up to 80 percent of the market share. On the other end of the bottle, the restaurant business—particularly fine dining—has been transformed by the women in wine. Until the last two decades, female chefs or waitstaff were seldom seen, as were female wine buyers or salespeople. All that's out the window now.
This shift has occurred on multiple levels and on a global scale. Women in other countries have always been wine drinkers. But they've used the last few decades' market growth to carve out a niche for themselves as leaders in the business, as addressed by Ann B. Matasar in Women of Wine: The Rise of Women in the Global Wine Industry. Her book is an in-depth study of women’s role in the worldwide wine industry and the obstacles they've had to overcome. Today, women such as Helen Turley, Susana Balbo, Merry Edwards, Eileen Crane and Heidi Schröck are among the best winemakers in the world. These women produce truly stellar wines. They're the “rock stars” of the industry.
One of their arenas is Women in Wine, a yearly symposium hosted by Napa Valley's COPIA: The American Center for Wine, Food and the Arts. Women are invited to join in panels and hear guest speakers that include the biggest females in the industry.
You might hear Jancis Robinson, Andrea Immer, Leslie Sbrocco, Natalie MacLean or Karen MacNeil speak, all highly regarded sommeliers, wine writers and educators. Women in Wine has become a huge and important event for women involved in the wine industry.
Bottling the Sexes
Biology may play a part in wine's affinity toward females. Linda Bartoshuk of the Yale Medical School conducted a study with findings that 25 percent of the population are "supertasters"—people with greater-than-average sensitivity for taste—and that the majority of those people are women. Furthermore, the study shows women may also have more highly developed olfactory systems, so they can better separate smells. Although Bartoshuk's study is controversial, it goes a long way in explaining women’s dominant role in the industry. Other experts differ greatly in their opinions and say women are simply more detail-oriented and better at vocalizing their thoughts about wine.
Differences in how men and women interact with wine don't stop there. According to Leslie Sbrocco in Wine for Women, producers have adopted completely new ways of selling their products because the sexes relate to wine in radically different ways. Men treat vintages like trophies, basing purchases on high scores and big names. Women are more practical. Taste and price weigh heavily on their decisions. Women also like the social aspects of wine, sharing it with friends and pairing it with food—and marketing language reflects that. Although it smacks of gimmickry to some, it seems to work. Sales have increased.
Megan Clemans, a representative of Boutique Wines of New Mexico, agrees with Sbrocco. She says since she was first exposed to wine, the focus has changed from affluent men to women of all types and social classes. If you enter a wine store today, Clemans notes, you'll find brands have been feminized in both appearance and flavor profile.
Jessie Griego of Fiasco Fine Wine has also witnessed sweeping change firsthand. "Having grown up in New Mexico and in the food and beverage industry, I have seen the transformation of what was once an almost exclusively male industry to one that embraces the talents and palates of women," she says. "In the past, many female salespersons were relegated to using 'sexiness' to sell … not so anymore. It is now recognized that women have discerning palates.”
New Mexico’s wine industry is bursting with knowledgeable women who've changed the landscape. Among them are Holly Penland of Quarters Wine Shops, a newcomer who has had a serious impact on the local industry; Patty Anderson of Anderson Valley Vineyards; Kathy Lovin of The Vineyard Express; Lori-Anne Castillo of Winemark; Mary Gronewold of Marcello’s Chop House; Carol Zonski of Jubilation Liquors; Melissa Olivas of Chama River Brewing Co.; Margaret Sheffield of Kelly Liquors; and Kelly Burton and Nellie Bauer of Chef du Jour and Jennifer James 101. No women have had as much effect on the local wine industry as Myra Gattas at Slate Street Café; Jennifer James, whose name stands alone; Nathalie Gruet; and Laura Mudd. The time, brains and muscle all these women have lent to promoting Albuquerque’s wine industry is beyond calculation. Like a great wine that's constantly evolving, the potential is boundless for these revolutionary women of wine.
Alive
September 2008
By Kate Zimmerman
September brings us the last days of summer and the year’s final opportunity for sun-drenched picnics. But how do we choose a suitable wine to ease us out of fancy-free summer and into the formality of fall?
Why not go regional or, at least, Canadian? You’ll cut down on the greenhouse gas emissions required to transport the wine, and you’ll support our growers and producers.
Local Pairings
“Three of my favourite picnic wines are Niagara Rieslings from Henry of Pelham, Strewn, and Vineland Estates,” says Ottawa wine expert Natalie MacLean, author of Red, White, and Drunk All Over and a free newsletter featuring thousands of wine and food pairings, available at nataliemaclean.com.
To complement picnic fare–from salads and paté to smoked salmon and chicken–try the Reisling from Niagra’s Konzelmann Estate Winery or from BC's Hillside Estate.
Organic From Around the World
Maybe your bias is toward organics, no matter their country of origin. Vancouver wine consultant and judge DJ Kearney is certainly a fan. She recommends Domaine de L’Olivette Blanc 2006 as an ideal picnic accompaniment; it’s an organic Southern French white vins de pays that’s a blend of Grenache, Bourboulenc, and Marsanne.
“The beguiling flavours of dried mixed citrus peel and garrigue (Provençal) herbs are perfect for the change of seasons,” says Kearney, who is also a chef. “I’d plan a picnic with a warm Mediterranean muffuletta sandwich, oozing pesto, cheese, and prosciutto, for this savoury white, or maybe a piquant salad of marinated mussels and a crusty loaf.”
Kearney’s alternative for an organic red in late fall, as the temperature starts to drop, is the Finca Luzon Monastrell 2006 from Bodegas Luzon in Jumilla, Spain. “It’s a lusty Spanish red from old vine Monastrell with no end of exuberant, black, plummy fruit, but also a gentle mellowness that is essentially autumnal,” she explains. “A smoky, spicy pulled pork bun or a steaming flask of beef and barley soup would temper the crisp weather.”
For a picnic wine whose buzz is more than alcoholic, Kearney recommends South Africa’s organic Winds of Change Pinotage-Shiraz 2004, the first certified Fair Trade wine available in Canada. It’s a product of African Terroir Wine’s Tribal winery, a participant in South Africa’s Black Economic Empowerment program.
“The wine is full-flavoured, mouth-coating, and rib-sticking,” she says. “I’d want some seriously smoky food with this fruit grenade–like a grilled chorizo in a bun or simply a selection of prime charcuterie, aged cheese, and chewy bread.”
Lusty food, curvy wine, and a bit of altruism sound just right for the season. Santé! Let the leaves fall where they may.
Andrew Zimmern
November 7, 2008
By Andrew Zimmern
When it comes to wine, Natalie MacLean is the First Lady. She writes for countless publications and offers up her wine knoweldge for the masses at www.natdecants.com. Her book, Red, White, and Durnk All Over has also won multiple awards in the culinary field.
Who better to get wine advice from than someone who has been named "World's Best Drink Writer?" (So named by the World Food Media Awards in Australia.)
Andrew Zimmern: As an award-winning wine writer, what are the challenges of translating a wine tasting experience to a readership?
Natalie MacLean: Wine is a sensual experience that involves sight, smell, taste and texture, so the challenge is to find words that convey this without dipping into purple prose or jargon. I like to focus on the pleasure of wine rather than get into the fruit salad school of description. Wine is as much about what goes on around the glass (food, friends, etc) as what’s in it.
AZ: As a judge, what is it that you look for when you taste a wine?
NM: I look for balance and expression of place. An Australian wine shouldn’t taste like Bordeaux or vice versa. Above all, the wine should dance with food rather than clobber the flavors in the dish with high alcohol or overly ripe fruit.
AZ: Why is champagne/sparkling wine a typical choice for a romantic evening? And other than this ubiquitous choice, what are your recommendations for a "date night" wine?
NM: Champagne is the drink of celebration, luxury and romance. The champagne producers are fabulous marketers and have connected this wine with all the high points in our lives, from births to weddings. Among the wines I recommend for Valentine’s Day at www.nataliemaclean.com/wine_picks are silky, seductive pinot noirs, such as those from Burgundy, California and New Zealand.
AZ: You have provided a great food and wine matcher on your site, Nat Decants, but in a pinch, what are some basic rules to follow?
NM: Try to marry the flavors, texture and weight of the wine with the dish. There’s a reason we don’t put ketchup on ice cream: the same goes for a light wine and a hearty meat dish.
AZ: What is the biggest trend in wine that you think is good for the industry and what is the worst?
NM: The biggest trend that’s great for the industry is the number of new producers and regions making wine: more choice, more competition, lower prices. The worst is the increasingly high levels of alcohol in wine. If you want alcohol, have a martini!
AZ: What is the next big thing in wine that consumers will see in 2008?
NM: More screwcaps, more organic wines, more rosés.
AZ: What’s in your fridge?
NM: Thanks for the reminder to throw out those wilting greens! Other than that: New Zealand sauvignon blanc and a rosé bubbly.
AskMen.com
May 29, 2008
By Shawn Loeffler
Natalie MacLean, editor of the award-winning wine newsletter at NatalieMacLean.com and author of Red, White and Drunk All Over helped AskMen.com learn about the extraordinary white wine Gewürztraminer.
Gewürztraminer has historically been unfairly treated and ignored. This dry white wine calls Alsace home and despite its distinctive character, its more popular big brother Riesling largely overshadows it -- “partly because Gewürztraminer is hard to say in a restaurant or liquor store,” says MacLean. Once you taste Gewürztraminer, however, you’ll either love it or hate it. Either way, there’s no way you can ignore this versatile wine or its lychee and rose aromas any longer.
About Gewürztraminer
Gewürztraminer is an honest and straightforward wine. According to Natalie MacLean, many oenophiles write off this incredible wine because “it has unusual aromas that are an acquired taste (or smell).”
Gewürztraminer is one of the few wines that has adopted the name of the grape from which it is produced. The grape itself has a pink to red colored skin and the etymology of its name offers an interesting story: The “traminer” part of its name is derived from a region in the Italian Alps known as Trentino-Alto Adige, while the “Gewürz” portion is distinctly German and means “spicy.” Adding to the international scope of this story is the fact that the Gewürztraminer varietal has had the most success in France.
Gewürztraminer isn’t an easy wine to produce, owing in large part to the early spring budding and is, therefore, susceptible to frost damage. The vine is reluctant to fight off viral infections and the grape clusters are typically small in the best of conditions. As a result, many producers fail to give it the care or time it deserves.
Where to find Gewürztraminer
If you were so inclined to take a wine tour to explore the regions from which Gewürztraminer hails, you’d be well-advised to pack a wool sweater, a warm hat and a pair of long pants. That’s because this grape thrives in cooler climates and though it does best in the Alsace region of France, its producers there still struggle with it. The vine must be closely monitored and an exacting harvest time is essential to producing a wine that maintains the proper acid and pH balance. If it’s picked too early, you’ll end up with an acidic wine and, conversely, if it's picked too late, you’ll miss out on Gewürztraminer’s distinctive qualities because it gets too ripe.
Your Gewürztraminer wine tour might also bring you to Canada, the U.S., Australia, Italy, Germany, and Israel. The good news is, however, that after years of static production acreage, Gewürztraminer is expanding, most notably in New Zealand and in Oregon and Washington states.
One of the main problems with Gewürztraminer producers is that they are not able to dedicate enough land to the grape; usually they give it five acres, but “some do more” according to MacLean. As a result, much of Gewürztraminer’s reputation is derived from the shipper and not the vineyard.
How to pair Gewürztraminer
Many consider Gewürztraminer a perfect wine to be paired with spicy Asian cuisine, such as Indian or Thai. It is true, but there are so many other possibilities owing to its bold flavors and aromas. Natalie MacLean says that Gewürztraminer is one of the most versatile wines to match with food because it's full-bodied and flavorful, so it stands up to heartier meat dishes than most whites. Its spicy and floral aromatics also means that it can handle curries and tangy sauces.”
"In fact, in the interactive wine-and-food matching tool on my website, I pair Gewürztraminer with beef bourguignonne, black pepper crusted cheeses, duck a l'orange, rack of lamb with rosemary seasoning, charcuterie, and onion tarts," says MacLean. She also points out that this delicious white wine isn’t always limited to being paired with main-course dishes or with hors d'oeuvres: “When Gewürztraminer is made in an off-dry or dessert style, it marries beautifully with fruit-based desserts, such as flans and cobblers, as well as various pastries.”
Try playing matchmaker with some of these suggestions:
• Sauerkraut and sausage
• Munster cheese
• Curry-based plates
• Chinese and Mexican
• Fresh fruit
• Fatty and oily game
• Smoked salmon
• Chicken
Gewürztraminer prices
Given the inherent difficulties with the production of Gewürztraminer, it is a relatively affordable wine. "As more and more wine lovers discover Gewürztraminer 's versatility and terrific taste, the market for it will grow. In the meantime, those of us who have discovered it now can drink this undiscovered gem at very reasonable prices in the range of $7 to $15," says MacLean.
Gewürztraminer can also extend into three-digit territory, but unless you’re trying to impress someone (and let’s face it, no one likes a wine snob) it’s a waste of your money. If, however, you’re looking for a bottle to bring to a dinner party or to give as a gift, excellent bottles of Gewürztraminer can be had for anywhere between $18 and $40.
If you’re a neophyte, you’ll be pleased with a mid-priced bottle of Gewürztraminer. A bottle in this range will contain all the typical Gewürztraminer characteristics you need to learn and develop your tasting skills. Also note that as more producers emerge in the United States, you won’t necessarily have to spend more than $20 for a quality bottle.
Gewürztraminer recommendations
2001 Hugel Gewürztraminer Vendange Tardive
AC Alsace, France
$69.95
This Gewürztraminer is a low-acidity wine with rich layers of sweet pears, lychee and spice. Pair it with pork and glazed ham with cloves.
Natalie MacLean’s score: 91/100
2005 Darting Gewürztraminer Kabinett, Qmp, Dürkheimer Nonnengarten
Germany, Pfalz Region
$16.95
Stunning! A white wine with exotic layers of rose petals, lychee and nuts. Closed with a screwcap.
Natalie MacLean’s score: 90/100
2005 Gewürztraminer Vendanges Tardives
Alsace, France
$34.00
The producer states that this bottle is made from late-harvest grapes, which creates a wine with subdued Gewürztraminer characteristics. Despite its subtleties, it’s still an intense glass with complexity and length in the mouth. The bottle should be served as an aperitif or with light desserts.
Gewürztraminer takeaway tips
• Gewürztraminer can be drunk as an aperitif or with nearly any meal.
• Gewürztraminer is often considered a dessert wine.
• Its color is typically straw yellow.
• A glass of Gewürztraminer will often have spritz.
Associated Press
December 17, 2008
By Michelle Locke
Trying to sate Champagne tastes when you're stuck with a beer budget can be a problem, but, say wine experts, there is frugal fizz to be had.
Champagne, to be precise, generally is considered only sparkling wine from the region of France of the same name. And quaffing bottles that bear that name comes at a premium.
But there are lower-priced options, including U.S. and Australian sparkling wines, Spanish cavas and Italian proseccos.
"As the years go on, they're getting better and better because the technology and the skill of making these products is increasing," says Wilfred Wong, cellar master for the Beverages & More chain with stores in California and Arizona.
So here are some sparklers generally available for around $10 (prices may vary by region).
Wong recommends:
-- Cristalino cava brut, "very fresh and it's good. It's been consistent for a long time, but every year they get better."
-- Domaine Ste. Michelle blanc de blanc, "elegant, tart and rich, but also wonderful flavors."
-- Freixenet cordon negro brut, "very consistent, a little drier. The black bottle's very sexy."
-- Yellow Tail sparkling white wine, "it's easy drinking."
-- Segura Viudas Aria, (this one may bust the budget, but discounted versions do go for under $10), "a little cleaner, crisper, it's very appealing."
-- Dolce Vita prosecco, (also sometimes found at above $10, but often available for less on promotion) "fresh and bright, a soft prosecco."
-- Barefoot Cellars, Barefoot Bubbly Chardonnay Champagne, "not overly complex, but a refreshing crowd-pleaser that pairs perfectly with party fare, such as popcorn or potato chips."
-- Crane Lake Brut, "fruity and straightforward but a good pick for making holiday cocktails with a splash of cranberry or pomegranate juice."
And from Natalie MacLean, of the Nat Decants wine Web site, two wines hovering around the $10 price point:
-- Ricossa Moscato D'Asti, "A lovely frizzante (slightly sparkling wine) with aromas of ripe peaches and limes. Drink as an aperitif or with mildly spiced Thai or Indian dishes, biscotti or fruit desserts."
-- Banrock Station Sparkling Chardonnay. "A generous, fruity bubbly with notes of green apples and white peach. I pair it with Chinese takeout, almonds, brie cheese, sushi and potato chips."
Associated Press
June 5, 2009
By Michelle Locke
Cal Dennison likes a nice cold glass of chardonnay. And he's man enough to admit it.
That's hardly surprising since Dennison is the winemaker at the Modesto-based Redwood Creek winery, but is he an exception?
Judging by some marketing campaigns, you might think so. Take the Super Bowl ad that ran a couple years back in which men invited to a wine and cheese party sneaked into the kitchen to unpack beer hidden in a fake wheel of cheese.
It was a stereotype played for laughs - in real life lots of men like wine - but maybe one with a crumb of cultural truth. The designator for "average dude" in political campaigning last fall was Joe Six-pack, not Peter Pinot Noir.
It's hard to say for sure exactly who's drinking what, but a Gallup Poll from last July found that among women who drink, 43 percent say wine is what they drink most often and 28 percent say beer. Among men who drink, 58 percent say beer is what they drink most often and 17 percent say wine.
"As a general rule, guys get together, they don't want to be seen with a glass of wine," says Nelson Barber, an associate professor of hospitality management at Texas Tech University who has studied gender differences in marketing wine.
Wine companies would like to change that. During the past few years some have adopted guy-friendly marketing with tie-ins to such red-blooded pastimes as camping and racing.
Take Maximus, a blend of cabernet sauvignon, syrah and merlot introduced by the Bennett Lane Winery in Calistoga a few years back. Bennett Lane, which owns a NASCAR team, is sponsoring a NASCAR West event at Infineon Raceway this Father's Day weekend.
Then there's "The Slammer," a syrah from Big House wines (their Soledad winery is near a California state prison), that features a back label showing a tough-looking guy with pants slung at plumber level.
Redwood Creek doesn't define itself by gender - the outdoors isn't solely a male preserve - but it is sold under a campaign strong on muscular pursuits; corks are emblazoned with GPS coordinates leading to various hiking spots.
"Without a doubt we start with the great outdoors," says Dennison, a horseman and fisherman. "If you decide to bring a little wine on an outdoor adventure, by golly, Redwood Creek is the wine of choice."
Natalie MacLean, editor of http://www.nataliemaclean.com, a wine Web site, tends to be skeptical of marketing campaigns, but she understands a winery's need to stand out on crowded shelves.
Wines aimed at women, with labels such as "Mad Housewife," came out some years ago and MacLean isn't surprised to see guy wines follow. "We all shop based on the label - fluffy squirrel, castle in the middle distance - it's whatever works," she says.
It's up to consumers to decide "whether the wine delivers - for a man's man or a woman's woman," she says.
When selling wine, one thing you don't want to do is walk up to a guy in a wine shop and ask "Can I help you?" says Barber. He theorizes this may have something to do with that elusive asking-for-directions gene.
An opener like "What kind of occasion are you thinking of buying a wine for" is a better bet, Barber says.
Dennison has started some conversations of his own with fellow members of his riding club, men and women.
It's "quite the rodeo cowboy culture and the folks there, of course, are enjoying the odd beer or two," he says. "But as I spend time with them, I'm just getting pummeled with questions on wine and which wine we should have and what wine is good."
He's got Father's Day all planned out. Up early, get the boat, off to his favorite Sierra lake for some fishing with his son and then back to the ranch to fire up the grill and cook their catch.
One guess what he'll be washing it down with.
Baltimore Examiner
January 1, 2009
By Christine Stutz
Until recently, the Malbec grape was known primarily as a minor player in French Bordeaux blends. But it is becoming better known as a varietal on its own, with some excellent vintages coming from Argentina, and price points that make them very attractive.
Malbecs are known for their deep purple color, hard tannins, and earthy coarseness, said Al Spoler, co-host of Cellar Notes on WYPR radio. "The adjective 'rustic' applies to it very easily," he said. "It's wine made by peasants for their own consumption."
Argentina grows the most Malbec, with the stars coming from the Mendoza region. Exports to the United States were a low priority until the Argentinians saw the popularity of Australian Shiraz, he said. Then they refined their winemaking, stepped up production and increased exports to North America.
Spoler is fond of Malbecs produced by Catena and Weinert, both of which sell for around $22. Perhaps the most successful producer in terms of quality, he said, is Susana Balbo, whose wines are always highly rated by Wine Spectator and The Wine Advocate.
Ken Ross, manager at North Charles Fine Wine and Spirits, said Malbecs have been selling especially well during the holidays. "A lot of people are asking for Malbecs," he said. Softer than Cabernet Sauvignon but with more tannin than Merlot, he said, "They offer good value. You get world-class wine for not a lot of money."
Ross said he recommends Malbecs to customers who are serving red meat or pork. They also are a good accompaniment to mushroom dishes, he said, because of their meaty flavor.
Among the labels Ross recommends are Punto Final by Bodegas Renacer ($13) and small producer Antonietti, a steal at $12.
"Argentine Malbec is one of the best bets on the liquor store shelves these days," said Natalie MacLean, a sommelier and editor of a wine newsletter at www.nataliemaclean.com. "It's both delicious and affordable. It also pairs well with a variety of dishes, from hearty stews to spaghetti and meat balls."
In addition to beef and pork, Malbec pairs well with lamb, game and bittersweet chocolate, said MacLean.
A very popular value Malbec is the Altos Las Hormigas, at about $10 a bottle. Alamos is another good brand that sells for about $15.
BK Wine Brief
March 14, 2009
By Britt Karlsson
Natalie MacLean is a productive wine writer who also has an active life on the internet. She has just launched a new wine and food matching “widget” for social media.
What does this mean?
Well, it’s a small piece of code that one can use if one has a blog or a web page. By putting the code on one’s page, one gets a little frame on the page with a food and wine matching tool to help you match the best wine with food.
You can discover many things with the widget, sometimes quite amusing. For example, that if you’re serving baguette the perfect match is Monbazillac (a sweet white wine from near Bergerac) or Merlot. And if you want to finish a bottle of Bandol, you could serve grilled vegetables.
Try it yourself.
Blatimore Examiner 2
March 11, 2009
By Kit Pollard
Natalie MacLean is a food and wine expert and an all-around good writer. When I have questions about what to drink with a meal, or what's new on the wine horizon, I usually go to her website. There's so much information crammed into one site that it's almost overwhelming.
One of the cooler features of the site is her "Drinks Matcher" tool. You choose a food or choose a wine and the matcher will tell you what, well, matches. The level of detail is surprising - Nat includes more than just a few standard meals and a wide variety of wines. Play around with it and I guarantee you'll learn something.
While the tool has been available on her website for a while, it's now also available for free download as a widget. You can add it to Facebook, to an email, or to a bunch of other web applications.
Brockville Recorder and Times
April 10, 2008
By Judy Creighton
The Brockville Recorder and Times published the same story as the London Free Press.
Calgary Herald
May 30, 2007
Renowned wine writer's pairing advice
By Shelley Boettcher
Trying to kill time but look productive in the office this morning? Consider a wine education site.
Chances are good that if you're Canadian and you enjoy reading about wine, you've heard about Canuck wine writer Natalie MacLean. Her book, Red, White and Drunk All Over has sold thousands of copies around the world since it was published early last year, and she's won pretty much every wine writing award in the world. And there are a lot of them.
Natalie's website is a terrific source for people interested in learning more about wine; I'm especially fond of her food and wine matcher (http://www.nataliemaclean.com/matcher), which gives hints for beginning oenophiles trying to plan meals. Choose a food category (appetizers, desserts, for instance), or choose a wine (red, white, sparkling etc.) She'll offer up dish suggestions, recipes and, of course, a list of wines to try.
And when you get bored of menu planning, you can always go back to her main site. You can poke around the site and read her often-hilarious wine articles for hours. Or at least till it's time to go home and put your newfound knowledge into practice.
Canadian Press
March 31, 2008
By Judy Creighton
Four Canadians, including a cookbook author, a magazine and a wine writer as well as a television producer, have been nominated for the prestigious James Beard Foundation Awards for 2008.
Established in 1990, the awards recognize culinary professionals for excellence and achievement in their field. They are dedicated to James Beard, who died in 1985. He was a cookbook author and teacher with an encyclopedic knowledge about food.
He helped mentor and educate generations of professional chefs and food enthusiasts.
Trish Magwood of Toronto has been nominated in the entertaining cookbooks category for her 2007 cookbook "Dish Entertains" (Harper Collins). She is also a successful food entrepreneur who owns Dish Cooking Studio in Toronto.
Toronto freelance food writer Sasha Chapman has been nominated in the Food-Related Consumer Issues segment of the competition for her piece "Sitting Ducks," which appeared in Toronto Life magazine in 2007.
A previous four-time winner of James Beard Awards for her writing about drinks, Natalie MacLean of Ottawa is nominated this year in the multimedia category for her presentation "When Food Fights With Wine."
And for his production of Bocuse d'Or 2007, Nick Versteeg of Shaw Cable in Victoria, B.C., is nominated in the Television Food Special category.
The awards and reception will take place at the Lincoln Centre in New York Sunday, June 8. The journalism and broadcast media awards will be presented at the Hudson Theatre on Friday, June 6.
Canadian Wine Facts
By Natalie MacLean
1. Canadian wine making is not a recent phenomenon. Viking explorer Leif Ericson first named Canada Vinland in 1001 BCE after he found so many vines growing where he landed at L’Anse Aux Meadows, Newfoundland. In 1535, Jacques Cartier also found many grapes growing on the island he named Ile de Bacchus (later known as Ile d’Orleans).
2. Jesuit priests found that wine made from the native rough-hewn grapes, which were not classic vitis vinifera grapes, was barely palatable for sacramental purposes. Vitis vinifera grapes were first planted in the 1900s.
3. Johann Schiller, a retired German soldier, is known as the father of the Canadian wine industry. In 1811, he applied his expertise from Rhine winemaking to 400 acres of grapes planted in the Niagara region of Ontario.
4. The first commercial winery was Vin Villa on Pelee Island in 1866. Today there are 250 wineries with in six provinces: British Columbia, Alberta, Ontario, Quebec, Nova Scotia and Prince Edward Island.
5. By 1919 all provinces went dry under Prohibition except Quebec which banned the sale of all alcohol but beer and wine. In a strange twist, Canadian law made it illegal to sell but not to manufacture liquor. Alcohol was also permitted for medicinal, scientific, industrial, sacramental and mechanical purposes. The inevitable result was the proliferation of basement, kitchen and cow shed distilleries as well as a booming smuggling trade to the US.
6. As Canadian humorist Stephen Leacock noted at the time “To get a drink during Prohibition it is necessary to go to the drugstore and lean up against the counter making a gurgling sigh like apoplexy. One often sees there apoplexy cases lined up four deep.” The use of alcohol for “medicinal reasons” became so loosely defined that the government eventually required tonic wine makers to add an ingredient that would cause the “patient” to vomit above the stated dosage. These “therapeutic wines” soon lost their market following.
7. At the end of Prohibition, each provincial government decided to regulate the sale alcohol similar to the system in Scandinavia. The government monopoly in Canada’s largest province, Ontario, is the world’s largest single purchaser of wine in the world buying 8.5 million cases annually (that’s twelve 750 ml bottles per case or 76.2 million litres in total). Approximately 69 percent of the current price of wine is comprised of government taxes.
8. In 1955, Bright’s winery produced the first 100 percent Canadian chardonnay. Up to this point, the most illustrious brand in the company’s repertoire was a Catawba grape-based sherry that was dubbed “Bright’s Disease” by less than enthusiastic tipplers.
9. In the early 1970s, Canadians preferred sweet “pop wines”; one of every 24 bottles consumed in Canada was Andre’s Baby Duck sparkling wine. The menagerie of other pop wines on the market at that time included Gimli Goose, Pink Flamingo, Baby Deer, Baby Bear, Little White Duck, Fuddle Duck and Luv-a-Duck and Pussycat.
10. In addition to the classical varieties, Canada grows several unique hybrids such as Baco Noir, Seyval Blanc, Marechal Foch, a cross between Pinot Noir and Gamay grapes, and Vidal, often used as the basis for its world renowned ice wine.
11. Canada’s cool climatic conditions enable it to be the largest ice wine producer in the world. The grapes for ice wine must be gathered and pressed at a temperature not higher than –8oC. Although both Germany and Austria are large ice wine producers, their climates are not as consistently cold as is Canada’s to guarantee ice wine production every year. Canada produces over 2 million 375ml bottles of ice wine annually. The average price of C$45/bottle in Canada will go as high as C$220 in Japan.
12. Ontario’s premier wine regions include Niagara Peninsula, Lake Erie North Shore and Pelee Island. British Columbia hosts the second largest grape growing regions including the Okanagan Valley, Similkameen Valley, Fraser Valley and Vancouver Island. The lakes and geography within these regions moderate temperatures and provide an excellent microclimate for grape growing. Eventually, subregions within these appellations will be created based on distinct microclimatic conditions. Canada’s wine regions are on the same latitude as Burgundy, France; Chianti Classico, Italy and Rioja, Spain.
13. Cool climates such as Canada’s produce grapes that are naturally higher in a chemical compound resveratrol. Resveratrol is the anti-oxidant in grape skins that protects the fruit against fungus attacks, and when consumed in wine, appears to reduce fat and cholesterol in human blood which contribute to heart disease.
14. Canadian wines have consistently won medals at international competitions over the past decade. For example, the Niagara winery Inniskillin won France's highest award, the Grand Prix d'Honneur, at the 1991 Vinexpo against 4,100 wines for its 1989 Ice Wine. Other awards have included Grand Golds at VinItaly for icewine and chardonnay, the Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande Trophy for the best blended red, the Civart Tophy for the best of the gold medal winning dessert wines and six gold medals at Vinexpo '97, of which three were for red wines. In March 1999, the British Columbia winery Calona Vineyards won the gold at Chardonnay du Monde competition (World Chardonnay) in France for its 1997 Artist Series Chardonnay.
15. In 1988, the Vintners Quality Alliance (VQA) was created to ensure minimum quality standards in designated Ontario appellations somewhat similar to the designations in France (Appellation Origine de Controlle or AOC) or the US (American Viticultural Area or AVA). Since then British Columbia has also adopted the system. VQA wines are tested by an independent tasting panel for typicity, quality and the absence of faults. Winemaking techniques and grape ripeness are also audited. Efforts are underway to nationalize the system which would help Canadian wineries to export to European markets where often country-wide standards must first be in place.
16. California winemaker Ernest & Julio Gallo make two and half times the amount of wine that Canadians drink annually. Canada’s largest winery, Vincor, produces 7 million cases annually making it the fifth largest winery in North America.
17. In the year ended March 31, 1997, Canadians spent $11.4 billion on beer, wine and spirits, a 3.6 percent increase over the previous year. They consume an average of 10.6 litres of wine per capita annually, of which 40% is red wine, 42% white and 18% sparkling, fortified and other wines combined. The highest consumption is in the north: those from the Yukon drink an average of 19 litres per capita. Over the past five years, wine consumption has increased 3.2 percent while beer and spirits decreased by 4.7 percent and 7.5 percent respectively.
18. The United States is Canada’s largest wine export market, and in 1997, Canada exported 180,000 bottles to America.
19. To find out more about the Canadian wine industry, visit the following web site: http://winesofontario.org and http://www.bcwine.ca.
Central Pennsylvania Magazine
July 2009
By Donna Marie Desfor
It wasn’t long ago that I decided to set out to learn more about wine.
As I immersed myself in the subject, I begrudgingly discovered there was more to learn than I ever wanted. The simple fact is, I, like most people, wanted a few simple, easy-to-follow rules to pair wine with my food. Much to my surprise, I learned that a lifetime of eating experiences gives us all the basic tools we can use to understand food flavor combinations and wine compatibility.
Instinctively we know that corn-on-the cob tastes best with butter. Or a splash of lemon on seafood magically improves its taste. Just as any chef will tell you that seasoning food with salt will brighten its flavor, a wine professional will tell you the best way to boost a food’s flavor is with wine.
Dave Burkhard, general manager at Mount Hill Tavern Restaurant and Bar in Harrisburg, is currently in a sommelier certification program. He says, “You don’t have to know the fancy wine terms to tell your wine professional what it is that you like about wine. My job is to listen to what you say and then guide you in your choice to find the best match for your taste.” He adds that the wine buyers for Pennsylvania’s Wine and Spirits Shoppes can do the same thing.
When you don’t happen to have a wine professional by your side, there are three basic concepts you can use to pair food with wine: balance, complement and contrast. Just as you might attempt to balance the richness of a sauce with a rich cut of meat, or pair the distinct flavors of ethnic dishes, or serve unexpected flavors together, wine can be thought of as an ingredient and used in much the same way. “Fortunately,” Burkhard says, “many wine labels now include a description of flavor, style or body that can help you make your selection.”
So what of the old adage “red with meat, white with fish?” This is where the concept of balance came into being. Balance is about matching the mouth-feel of each part of the pair. No one component of the pairing should feel heavier (or lighter) in the mouth than the other. Delicate foods such as mild, flaky fish balance well with wines that have a lighter feel in the mouth. Heavier foods, including many meats such as beef, duck or lamb, go well with full-bodied wines. This idea of balance is especially true with dessert: You serve rich, concentrated wines with rich, luscious foods.
If you want to have some real fun with pairing, play with the flavors in your food and wine and pick a common (complementing) flavor in both. Syrah, for example, known for its peppery notes, would be complemented by steak encrusted with pepper, or served with a sauce au poivre. Then, when you are ready to be adventurous, look to contrast a predominant flavor in your food with the flavor of your wine. Think of using a slightly sweet wine, perhaps a Viognier, to contrast a cuisine with a bit of spice, like Thai or dishes that use the now popular Chinese Five Spice. Or, you might even try pairing an old vine Zinfandel, which is known for its rich cherry notes, with vanilla ice cream.
For those who think even these basics are too much to remember, Natalie MacLean, who publishes one of the largest wine e-newsletters at nataliemaclean.com, offers an online and downloadable (in just three clicks) Drinks Matcher widget that answers questions from “which wine tastes best with pork chops in a maple glaze?” to “does rosemary-grilled halibut invite red or white wine?” MacLean suggests that “the protein you choose is often the vehicle for flavor in a dish. Whether you add herbs, sauces or other seasoning, consider this first when matching your wine.” You can search the Matcher to pair meat, pasta, seafood, vegetarian dishes, pizza, takeout, sauces, herbs, cheese or dessert. “The Drink Matcher is meant to be a springboard to help you discover the matches you prefer. The perfect pairing, of course, is between you and the wine you like,” says MacLean.
Of course there’s the ever-popular, if somewhat clichéd, rule to food and wine pairing that “if you like it, then it’s a good match.” But it’s as much fun to discover new wines as it is to taste different foods with them. Burkhard, who oversees a cellar of almost 300 bottles, is quick to point out that his restaurant changes the wines-by-the-glass list regularly. “Within one month the entire list is changed,” he says. “This way people can experience different types of wines or wine blends that they might have passed up if they had to buy a whole bottle.”
If I’ve learned anything from my brief foray into the ever-changing world of wine, it’s that the starting point is as simple as knowing what tastes and flavors I like, and understanding why I like them. From there it becomes one big tasting adventure. There are literally thousands of combinations of flavors and tastes in both food and wine. Some of those combinations are bound to be delicious, and others inevitably will be a disaster. The best thing to remember when it comes to wine and food pairing, though, is not to worry too much about it. Simply taste and enjoy the experience.
Donna Marie Desfor is a chef and owner of There’s a Chef in My Kitchen, LLC, a culinary education–based business in Hampden Township, Cumberland County. Professionally trained in contemporary French Cuisine in South Africa’s number-one-rated Bosman’s restaurant, Desfor now hosts Food Wednesdays, witf.org’s online food section that provides recipes, chefs’ tips and tricks, and delicious information about food in Central PA.
Grilled Korean Pork Chops
This is an easy and tasty marinade that transforms into a delicious glaze with the heat of the grill. The heat from the chile in this dish can overpower the fruit in a wine, so take care not to overdo it. Try a fruity, full-bodied Grenache or a Grenache-Shiraz blend with this dish. Shao Xing wine is a rice-based Chinese cooking wine that is readily available in Asian markets or some ethnic sections of better grocery store chains.
2 Tablespoons soy sauce
1 Tablespoon roasted red chile paste
2 Tablespoons Shao Xing wine (substitute sherry)
3 Tablespoons Mirin
1 Tablespoon sesame oil
2 green onions, white and light green parts only, chopped
4 cloves garlic, finely minced
2 Tablespoons finely minced ginger
1 Tablespoon sugar
½ teaspoon fresh ground black pepper
6 center-cut, bone-in pork chops, about 1 inch thick (about 4-5 pounds total)
1 Tablespoon toasted sesame seeds, to garnish
Combine soy sauce and the next 9 ingredients (roasted red chile paste through black pepper) in a bowl. Divide pork chops between two heavy-duty storage bags (or place the chops in a large, shallow bowl) and add equal amounts of the soy sauce mixture to each. Seal the bags and marinate in the refrigerator for at least 2 hours and up to 8, turning the bags once or twice. Prepare the grill for direct, medium-high heat. Lightly brush the grate with vegetable oil. Remove the chops from the marinade and place on the grill. Discard the remaining marinade. Grill with the lid closed about 6 to 8 minutes per side, depending on the thickness of the chops. Remove to a platter, tent with foil and let rest for 5 minutes before serving. Garnish with toasted sesame seeds. Serves 6.
Clams in Garlic Miso Sauce With Red Pepper
This dish was inspired by some of the finest bistro food I have ever enjoyed. At Yasu Sushi Bistro in Phoenix, Arizona, I was treated to Manila clams in a rich, but slightly sweet, garlic miso sauce with dried Japanese red bell pepper. For a nice summer match, try a bright, unoaked chardonnay or a slightly sweet varietal like Viognier.
2 Tablespoons grapeseed oil
2 Tablespoons butter
6 to 8 cloves garlic, finely minced
1 Tablespoon finely minced ginger
1 small shallot, finely minced
½ cup sake (substitute Chinese cooking wine)
¼ cup miso (light)
½ teaspoon sugar
4 cups chicken stock (substitute high-quality canned chicken broth)
1 bag (50 count) littleneck clams, scrubbed and rinsed
1 small Thai red chile, stemmed and seeded and very thinly sliced, for garnish
Place a Dutch-oven or medium-size stock pot over medium heat. Add grapeseed oil and butter. When butter is melted, add the garlic, ginger and shallot. Sauté for 1 to 2 minutes until soft and the garlic is just beginning to turn golden. Do not let the garlic brown. Add the sake and whisk in the miso and sugar to combine. Raise heat to high, add chicken stock and bring to a boil. Reduce mixture by about half. Add the clams, cover and cook until clams open. Uncover and reduce heat to medium. Continue to reduce the liquid until you have a slightly thickened, rich-tasting broth. Add the chile for garnish. Ladle broth and clams into a bowl. Serve immediately. Serves 4 to 6 as an appetizer or first course.
Centre Daily Times
February 3, 2008
By Jo and Tom Chesworth
With Valentine’s Day coming, are you wondering which red wine to have with your chocolate? Did you ever wonder which red grape is responsible for the most red wine? Perhaps it’s Cabernet Sauvignon, the major component of most Bordeaux red wines and a mainstay in California vineyards. Wrong. It isn’t Merlot, the major component in the rest of the Bordeaux reds and a darling of California wines. Nor is it Zinfandel. So much for most California reds.
How about Pinot Noir, the great red grape of Burgundy and Oregon? Nope. Well then, it must be Shiraz, also called Syrah, grown in Australia and grown, by law, on the right bank of the Rhone River south of Lyon, France. That’s not it, nor is the Native American Concord grape, a wine that is not even considered to be a grape wine.
In fact, it is none of the “international grapes” nor any of the fashionable “named varietals.” It is difficult to find its name on a wine label for reasons that are political. In France there are four official levels of quality. The two highest levels are based on the area where the grapes are grown and the wine is made. In general, the smaller and more specific the area, the higher the wine’s quality. The rules require that vineyards grow only specified grapes, plant only so many vines per acre and that the wine has a minimum alcohol level. The system is called AOC, (Appellation d’Origine Contrôllèe) and the second level is VDQS, a sort of AOC in waiting. The key rule in the system is that, with very few exceptions, you are not allowed to put a varietal name on the label. No Merlot, no Cabernet Sauvignon, and no Pinot Noir.
The next level is vin du pais on whose label you may put a varietal name, but they don’t bother in Europe. However, if they’re making wine for the American market, they do.
The lowest level in the quality system is vin du table which is seldom exported and is usually found in unlabeled plastic milk bottles in supermarkets in France or delivered by the farmer with the morning milk and eggs. Only in the new world do consumers look for varietal names on their wine labels.
The name of the most widely grown red grape, because little of it is grown outside Europe, almost never appears on a label. In France, the country that produces the most wine, it is called Grenache. In Spain it is Garnacha, and up until the mid-1960s there was more Grenache than Shiraz grown in Australia.
It is grown in Provence, France, across the southern border from Italy, through Chateauneuf du Pape to Marseilles, then along the Mediterranean coast in Languedoc- Roussoillon and on the northern slopes of the Pyrenees to the Atlantic south of Bordeaux. Because the grape grows along the Mediterranean, it does very well in that climate (like Southern California) so that Grenache may be the next California wine of the month.
If you wish to indulge in Grenache with your sweetheart on Valentine’s Day, you might want to get a bottle of 2003 d’Arenberg Grenache from the Derelict Vineyard in McLaren Vale in South Australia at $25 a bottle. Or perhaps try one of the most food-friendly red wines, Chateauneuf -du-Pape. Georges Duboeuf has a range of prices from $9 for the frugal among us to $24 for the profligate.
Natalie MacLean, author of the popular book Red, White and Drunk All Over, calls wine “liquid sensuality and when you pair it with the mouth-coating luxury of chocolate, the combination is impossible to resist.” Some of her matches are chocolate-covered biscotti with Valpolicella (Italy), chocolate- orange cake and Liqueur Muscat (Australia), chocolate with nuts and Tawny Port (Portugal), or milk chocolate and Tokaji (Hungary).
Or you might try the valentine we are giving each other — Barton & Guestier’s Chateauneuf-du-Pape at $22 and Hershey’s Dark Chocolate at 60 cents a bar.
Charleston Gazette
June 5, 2007
By John Brown
As I’ve almost evangelistically proclaimed over the years: “Brothers and Sisters, you got to drink that wine with victuals. Say hallelujah!” Both the wine and the food are enhanced and your sensory pleasure is doubled. One of the best websites I’ve found to get up-to-date information on matching food and wine is: www.nataliemaclean.com/matcher.
Natalie MacLean, award-winning author of the website, is also author of “Red, White and Drunk All Over: A Wine-Soaked Journey from Grape to Glass.” The link above is not just a place to find special occasion food and wine matches. MacLean’s says her matching tool pairs wines with everyday meals, as well as challenging fare, such as vegetarian cuisine, egg-based sauces, cheese, TV dinners, and even dessert, including Jell-O and fudge (for those who like to layer their vices).
Chatelaine
April 2008
By Natalie MacLean
Raise a glass of great vino with help from Chatelaine's wine expert Natalie MacLean. Here are her tips to serving – and enjoying – a perfect glass.
1. Decanting
Pour wine out of the bottle and into a decanter, which can be a water jug, specially designed wine decanter or another large vessel to soften the wine and clarify it of any remaining sediment (the tiny particles from the grapes). Exposing robust red wines to air softens their harsh tannins, which make them taste smoother. White wines don't have strong tannins, so they taste best when fresh from the bottle.
2. Red wine temperature
Serve red wine at about 17C. You can buy a wine thermometer if you really want to be sure, but the wine should be slightly cooler than room temperature. Some light reds, such as beaujolais or other gamay region wines, are better served at cooler temperatures to capture their freshness.
3. White wine temperature
Serve white wine chilled to about 13C. When you pour it, your glass should feel cool but not ice-cold – it shouldn't mist over.
4. Good glasses
A good glass does make wine taste better. All you really need are two all-purpose styles: the bordeaux glass (with a rounded bowl) is the most versatile for reds, and the sauvignon blanc glass (with more of a tulip-shaped bowl) works for most whites. Leading glassware makers include Baccarat, Schott Zwiesel, Waterford, Spiegelau and Riedel.
5. Quality scent
Be sure to smell the wine before you serve it. Whether it's red or white, if it smells like musty cardboard, it may be corked. This flaw occurs when a chemical from the cork leaches into the wine. There's no salvaging it, so try another bottle.
Chef 2 Chef
A Magnum-Sized Resume
Natalie MacLean is more than just an accredited sommelier; she's a wine writer, speaker, wine judge, and publisher of one of the largest wine newsletters on the Internet.
"I've been writing about wine for 10 years," says MacLean, "I love the 'research' aspect of my job and am very thorough about it."
She's good at it, too. Her book, Red, White and Drunk All Over: A Wine-Soaked Journey from Grape to Glass, was named Best Wine Book in the English Language at the Gourmand Cookbook Awards. It also won the Culinary Literary Book Award in the Cordon d'Or international culinary arts competition.
Impressive, but MacLean was just getting warmed up. Her outstanding writing has also won her numerous other awards including: four prestigious James Beard Foundation Awards, six Bert Greene awards, five awards from the American Association of Journalists, and four North American Travel Writers Association awards, to name a few.
Uncorking Today's Wine Culture
Though her resume is a bit intimidating, MacLean is anything but. Noted for her quick wit and remarkably easygoing approach to wine, she's a cool breeze in an industry characterized by stiff know-it-alls. Think you need to cross-check dozens of rules before uncorking your next bottle? Think again.
"The only rule is to drink what you like," says MacLean. "If the wine you like doesn't go with the food you're eating, for goodness sakes, have a bun in between."
It's this open attitude that makes MacLean's work so attractive to beginners just learning the vines and experienced wine fanatics alike.
Smartphone Wine Pairing Guide: Your Pocket Sommelier and Bartender
Whether you're new to wine and need a little help choosing one that works with the lamb you just ordered, or you know your way around the bottle but would like to try something new, MacLean's new smartphone application, the Nat Decants Drinks Matcher, will help you get it right.
"As a wine-loving geek, I love finding ways for new technology to help us savor all of life's pleasures, wherever we are," says MacLean. "My food and wine pairing tool captures all of that learning and those thousands of combinations in a simple, interactive format that anyone can use anywhere."
MacLean's virtual food and wine pairing application is compatible with your iPhone, iPod Touch, BlackBerry Bold, and BlackBerry Curve. Offering much more than a standard wine pairing guide, this Drinks Matcher offers more than 380,000 recipe pairings for everything from campfire grub to gourmet fare.
"Food and wine pairing should be an adventure, but that doesn't mean all combinations are winners. "There's a reason we don't put ketchup on ice cream," says MacLean. "I've spent 8 years testing various combinations--I am a thoroughly hedonistic researcher."
Enjoy the fruits of MacLean's labor by downloading the Nat Decants Drink Matcher for $2.99. You can also read more of MacLean's work and sign up for her newsletter at www.nataliemaclean.com.
Chester Chronicle
August 9, 2009
As mobile phone applications, RSS Feeds and websites become more sophisticated, food lovers no longer need to scan cookery books for inspiration for their evening meal.
When four American University students set up a recipe-sharing website in 1997, their motivation was anthropological rather than commercial.
However, within ten years their website, designed to explore how people share recipes, had grown into one of the world's biggest food websites - allrecipes.com.
According to vice president of marketing, Esmee Williams, it was people at home rather than web entrepeneurs, who made this site a success.
"We just created the technology," she explains. "It was the community who created the content."
With 15 million visitors every year, this easy-to-use website has proven that, when it comes to food and technology, the internet foodie world is not just limited to Blackberries.
But while using the internet to find recipes, do the weekly shop or just order a takeaway has become normal thanks to forward-thinking companies like Allrecipes, the launch of Apple's iPhone two years ago took things one step further.
Easy-to-download applications which could be used on the move, became available, and this month allrecipes.co.uk launched their first iPhone 'app'.
"We first introduced our first mobile phone application ten years ago. But back then it was a small screen and a miserable experience," Williams remembers.
Faster internet connections and better-designed websites changed all that and the companies' 'Dinner Spinner' application has already had 1.5 million downloads in the US.
With a slot machine-like search facility, those who can't decide on their dinner can simply shake their iPhone to activate the Dinner Spinner. No typing is needed.
You could then download another application to help you buy the ingredients, adds Jon Rudoe, head of retail at Ocado.com
"Our application enables you to do a full shop, anytime," he explains.
"You could be sitting on a tube and choosing your products. Your list would then be synced to your Ocado account when you go above ground."
This is great news for those who prefer to make up their shopping lists spontaneously, rather than sitting in front of a computer.
Ordering online is also a handy way to keep an eye on your budget.
"When you're standing in the supermarket you can't do an instant price comparison," Jon points out. "But online you can, so we have to be competitive. You can also see exactly how much you're spending as you go along."
A common myth about Ocado.com is that it only stocks Waitrose products, when in fact the site offer 19,000 products. All branded goods sold on Ocado.com are price-matched with Tesco, and their Waitrose own-label produce is sold at "internet only" prices, which makes them cheaper than you would find in-store.
But if you're still not sold on apps and websites, here are a few sites to get you started...
Eat fresher
Download www.seasonsapp.com to find out which fruits and vegetables are in season. The application includes information on fruits, vegetables, lettuces, herbs, fungi and nuts, so you can save the planet while tickling your taste buds. If you haven't got an iPhone, visit www.eattheseasons.co.uk, instead.
Allergies
Whether you're intolerant to dairy, gluten or nuts, this application will help you choose your meals in restaurants, as well as reminding you what questions to ask your waiter. Visit www.allergyfreepassport.com. Or if you need general advice go to www.eatwell.gov.uk.
Matching food and wine
You might have worked out what to eat and how to buy it online - but do you know what to drink? Get some instant expert advice from Natalie Maclean and you'll never get confused in a wine store again. Visit www.nataliemaclean.com/mobilematch or head to her website for advice, podcasts and subscription to the newsletter.
Chicago Tribune
By Bill Daley
California chardonnays apparently have a wicked identity crisis. For the last few seasons, they've drawn plenty of criticism for being either too big and blowsy, or way too skinny and vacuous. You're left wondering what is the real face of chardonnay, which remains, still, the most popular wine variety in the United States.
But even knowing of this white grape's multiple personalities, I was still caught off-guard during a recent, disappointing tasting of just-released California chardonnays from the 2007 and 2008 vintages.
Only the 2007 Chateau St. Jean Belle Terre Vineyard chardonnay stood out. This wine smelled, tasted and looked like a chardonnay. The eight others were muted, bland, pale. The taste panel was stunned at the lack of character in these wines, which ranged in price from $8 to $44. A few weeks later, a tasting of four more new chardonnays went better. Still, only the 2008 Scott Family Estate Chardonnay from the Arroyo Seco region and the 2007 Bridlewood Estate Chardonnay from Monterey really stood out.
A few days after this second tasting, The Wall Street Journal took newly released high-end California chardonnay to task.
The verdict: Too many "stupid, insulting wines."
What's happening here?
I kept wondering if California chardonnay-makers, long stung by accusations of making high-alcohol, oaky butter bombs, had simply turned tail in the face of the ABC (Anything But Chardonnay) movement and hard economic times. Maybe they were trying to encourage American wine drinkers to scamper in the opposite flavor direction, but if so, at what stylistic price?
"California chardonnay is in danger of becoming the indecision beige of the wine world," warned Natalie MacLean, publisher of a wine newsletter at her Web site, nataliemaclean.com.
"Many wines I've tasted lately haven't left a good or bad impression: They've simply left no impression at all," she added. "They remind me of new homeowners who are afraid to commit to bold colors on their walls and end up opting for a neutral, boring palette."
Some wine experts believe the new, leaner chardonnays are for the better, especially if that means more independence from oak for flavoring and less frequent use of malolactic fermentation, a process that makes wines taste smoother, softer and, in chardonnay's case, more "buttery."
"I'm sure that some people are backing off the malolactic character of their chardonnays, and I think that's a good thing. Freshness in a white wine is almost obligatory, I think," said Doug Frost, a master sommelier and wine consultant in Prairie Village, Kansas. "But ... way too many wineries are making un-oaked or lightly oaked chardonnays, and almost all of these New World wines are utterly boring."
No matter how disappointing today's chardonnays can be, it's important to remember that serious winemaking in California is still a recent phenomenon, especially when you compare it with the centuries of oenological experience found in Burgundy, home to the most emulated chardonnays in the world. Perhaps California chardonnay just needs time to mature.
This question of personality is not just a problem for California chardonnay, according to Belinda Chang, wine director of The Modern restaurant in New York City.
"There is definitely something going on," she said. "I have seen a quiet shift among all chardonnay producers worldwide."
No longer cool is what Chang describes as "that over-the-top yeasty, creamy style."
Still, that may be what you prefer in a chardonnay. What to do?
There are thousands of chards from around the world. If the wine is unknown to you, try to figure out a way to get an evaluative sip before purchasing, especially if the bottle is a pricey one. That way you can be assured of drinking in the "personality" you like best.
Three chards with points of view
A recent tasting of nine newly released Golden State chardonnays was so disappointing that panelists agreed to try four more. Out of these two tastings, three favorites emerged: We decided they were chardonnays that were not afraid to be chardonnays.
2008 Scott Family Estate Chardonnay Arroyo Seco $25 A lush, complex wine made from Dijon chardonnay clones, it tastes like a much older Burgundy. It hails from the Arroyo Seco subregion of California's Monterey appellation. The color is appealingly golden. The voluptuous nose is heavy with notes of ripe pear, pineapple and spice. The flavor is big and round, with touches of pineapple, nectarines and clove. Serve with bacon-wrapped scallops.
2007 Chateau St. Jean Chardonnay Belle Terre Vineyard $25 There's an air of cantaloupe and chalk around this white from Sonoma's Alexander Valley. Buttery flavor plushed by touches of melon and oak. Serve with roast pork loin with chimichurri sauce.
2007 Bridlewood Estate Chardonnay $15 There's a lovely nose of caramel and vanilla to this Monterey white. Ripe pear and peaches are balanced on the palate by lively minerality. Serve with rosemary chicken.
Chicago Tribune
July 5, 2009
By Bill Daley
OK, so you don't know a box wine from a baby brunello and that big dinner with colleagues/clients/current object of obsession is just a day away. You want to be dining and wining but will likely be dining and whining ... especially if all you can say to the waiter is, "Got any wine coolers?"
You could sign up for Wine Appreciation 101, but frankly, who has the time? Enter your friend, The Faker, who called on Tribune wine critic Bill Daley for his cheat sheet on pro-style ordering. Follow his script, look like you know your way around a pinot. And whatever you do, don't be afraid to fake it.
Order a "weird" grape variety. For example, Daley says, the pros love dry riesling, but most people won't go near it. Too sweet, they fear. Yet they drink fruity cocktails. Go figure. Of course, you need to have an idea about how that "weird" wine tastes with food beforehand. A great simple-to-use Web site for food and wine pairings is Nat Decants (natdecants.com) by wine writer Natalie MacLean.
Type in the wine ("riesling") and you get a briefing on how the wine tastes and what foods she recommends (Thai dishes, California-style pizza, for example). Another click and you'll have specific wine bottles you can ask for when ordering. (Don't worry if the restaurant is out; ask for something similar in flavor -- and price.)
Spend a little. Never order the two cheapest wines on the list. Savvy wine drinkers know that the second-lowest-priced bottle is generally the highest markup. To hedge your bets, steer clear of the bargain basement and choose from the midpriced selections.
Hold the glass of wine up to the light before accepting the bottle. Study it, frown, say "hmmmm." No "amateur" looks at what they're drinking, Daley says. Or, if you want to be less show-offy, hold the glass out at an angle over a white plate or tablecloth. Replicate the above expression. All this has a serious side -- a brownish tinge means the wine is too old.
Smell the wine. Seriously. Give the glass a little spin so the wine swirls up the side of the glass, then stick your nose in and breathe deeply. Actually, this (like the light test above) is a serious component to evaluating a wine. A good aroma gives you pleasure while offering an indication of how the wine will taste. But if you don't really know what you're smelling, it's the gesture that counts.
Chicago Tribune
March 14, 2007
Drinking of the green (wine, that is)
By Bill Daley
If you ask me, way too many people will mark St. Patrick's Day this Saturday by sudsing it up with green beer. The rest of us can take heart; there are other liquid alternatives out there guaranteed to brighten the day. Take "green" wine.
Oh, not so much green in color, although certain varietals in a certain light take on limey highlights. I'm talking "green" as in flavor profile: crisp, herbaceous, apple-y. Delicious.
These often-spunky wines will stand up to all the corned beef and cabbage, shepherd's pie, fried fish, poached salmon and colcannon dished out over the weekend.
What fits the definition of green? Depends on whom you ask.
"When I think of 'green' wines, those that come to mind are zippy whites with herbal notes such as New Zealand sauvignon blanc, Italian verdicchio and Austrian gruner veltliner," said Natalie MacLean, author and creator of a free online food and wine matching system (nataliemaclean.com/matcher).
"They all have enough mouthwatering acidity to stand up to traditional pub dishes," she said.
Chicago Tribune (10)
April 8, 2009
By Bill Daley
The morning had been spent stomping through some of Bordeaux's most storied vineyards in a cold Atlantic wind, and now lunch was being served at Chateau Palmer.
The cozy first course was a deceptively simple one: eggs baked in a ramekin with red wine, bacon and onions. We all dug in, using tablespoons and sturdy strips of toast, as the last of the springtime chill seemed to melt away.
And, of course, there was a wine to help warm us, 1994 Chateau Palmer.
Drinking a $120 bottle of red wine with eggs was an epiphany. It seemed odd and excitingly un-American. The French preference for eggs at lunch and dinner and served with wine seemed so opposite from the American tradition of eggs at breakfast or brunch with, at most, a Bloody Mary on the side.
But experimenting with eggs at other times of the day, perhaps cooked and served with wine, makes lots of sense now. First, Easter is approaching and 62 percent of U.S. moms are poised to buy at least two dozen eggs to mark the occasion, according to the American Egg Board. Do something besides just hard-cooking them. Second, hard times mean people are looking for more affordable sources of protein such as eggs.
But there's a catch: "Eggs are notoriously tough on wines," said Evan Goldstein, president of Full Circle Wine Solutions, a spirits and wine education company based in San Francisco.
Goldstein, a master sommelier and author of "Perfect Pairings," a food and wine matching book, said dishes in which eggs have a starring role can dampen the profile of many dry wines.
"The egg cuts down on the acidity, it cuts down the impact of the wine dramatically," he said. "You get something that's a mere shadow of itself."
His solution? Pour a very acidic, crisp wine. Experiment with sparkling wine, gewurztraminer and riesling.
The eggs worked with the Chateau Palmer, he said, because the red wine and bacon sauce in which the eggs were cooked had enough acidity to switch the flavor focus from the egg itself.
Bacon, mushrooms and ham are "bridging ingredients" that help "smooth" red wines, such as pinot noir and syrah, to work with eggs, said Natalie MacLean, a Canadian wine writer who runs an online food and wine matcher at her Web site, nataliemaclean.com. For whites, she wants unoaked wines.
"I love unoaked chardonnay or sauvignon blanc with eggs because they don't have those heavy tannins and oak flavors that battle with the sulfur compounds in eggs," MacLean said.
The lack of oak is important, said Joshua Wesson, senior director of wine, beer and spirits for The Great Atlantic & Pacific Tea Co., better known as A&P.
"If you want to make someone suffer, serve them a barrel-aged chardonnay with an egg salad sandwich," Wesson once declared.
"You also need to consider the texture of the eggs," he said. "Look at scrambled eggs. If they are soft and runny they present a different challenge to a sommelier than if the eggs were firm. Wine, as a liquid, has trouble relating to another liquid-y food."
A light, even ethereal wine that matches the lightness and delicacy of the scrambled eggs would work, Wesson said. A dry manzanilla or fino sherry, or a very dry sparkling wine, are some of the better options.
The message is clear: Experiment with your favorite egg dishes and your favorite wines. You may be pleasantly surprised.
Chicago Tribune (2)
September 12, 2007
By Bill Daley
A ripe tomato deserves to be showcased at the table with, at least, a sprinkling of good salt and, at most, a piece or two of mozzarella, basil sprigs and a drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil. And, to make it even more celebratory, be sure to pour some wine even though there's a challenge in finding one that will work with the lively, mouth-filling flavor tomatoes bring to the table.
Sommelier Marcus Will says the tart acidity of fresh tomatoes demands a wine equally electric or the wine will end up tasting flat.
"Move to a sauvignon blanc that's zippy and slightly racy," he says.
Will is not alone in recommending sauvignon blanc. Other experts suggest the herby sauvignon blancs from France's Loire and Bordeaux regions.
Natalie MacLean, the Canadian wine writer, also points to sauvignon blanc on her Web site, Nat Decants (nataliemaclean.com). But there are other wines, both red and white, that can work with tomatoes, such as an Italian barbera, because of their acidity.
"When tomatoes are cooked in a multi-ingredient dish or in a sauce, such as ratatouille or marinara, they're less harsh and their acid edge is softened," she noted in an e-mail interview. "With these dishes, you can try other juicy Italian reds, such as Valpolicella, sangiovese and dolcetto. They all have complementary ripe red fruit aromas, a touch of spice and a mouth-awakening acidity."
MacLean said pinot noirs from such cool climate regions as Burgundy, New Zealand and Oregon have a tartness to hold up to tomatoes. But warm-climate pinots, such as those from California and Australia, are "too ripe and flabby to hold their own," she said.
A fresh approach
2005 Domaine de Bel Air Pouilly Fume: This sauvignon blanc from France's Loire Valley perfectly matched the mouth-feel of tomatoes. Elegant, with notes of grapefruit and anise, this wine made the tomato taste even fresher. $23.
2004 Villa Giada Barbera d'Asti Ajan: Aromatic, with notes of spice, clove and pepper, this Italian red tasted of dark fruit and earth. Wine highlighted the tomato's natural sweetness. $22.
2005 Gustave Lorentz Gewurztraminer Reserve: This Alsatian white was better poured on its own. The oily richness of wine got lost amid the tomato's flavors. $18.
2004 Gobelsburger Gruner Veltliner: From Austria, this white offered butterscotch notes offset by a zesty acidity. Most tasters thought the wine overwhelmed the tomato. $18.
2004 Ruffino Chianti Superiore Il Leo: Rich Italian red with plump fruit underscored by notes of earth. Most tasters thought the wine did not improve when matched with the tomato. $17.
2005 Poderi Luigi Einaudi Dolcetto di Dogliani: Italian red with a very low profile, this wine's unassuming berry flavors almost disappeared when paired with the tomato's vitality. $19.
Chicago Tribune (3)
September 5, 2007
By Bill Daley
It's high season for tomatoes, that short but intense period when locally grown tomatoes seem to be everywhere: Farm stands, supermarkets, back-yard vines. One bite into a juicy, ripe sun-warmed tomato and you recognize once more what all the fuss is about after spending months dodging those wan, rock-hard "tomatoes" sold or served out-of-season.
A fresh, vine-ripened tomato deserves to be showcased at the table with, at least, a sprinkling of good salt and, at most, a piece or two of mozzarella, basil sprigs and a drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil. And, to make it even more celebratory, be sure to pour some wine even though there's a challenge in finding one that will work with the lively, mouth-filling flavor tomatoes bring to the table.
Marcus Will, sommelier at Va Pensiero in Evanston, said that the tart acidity of fresh tomatoes demands a wine equally electric or the wine will end up tasting flat.
"Move to a sauvignon blanc that's zippy and slightly racy," he said.
Will is not alone in recommending sauvignon blanc. It is the tomato wine of choice for Efrain Madrigal, wine director of Sam's Wines & Spirits. He suggested the "especially herby" sauvignon blancs from France's Loire and Bordeaux regions.
"To me, these wines have an herby, almost tomato leaflike note that works well with uncooked tomatoes," he said.
Natalie MacLean, the Canadian wine writer, also points to sauvignon blanc on her Web site, Nat Decants (nataliemaclean.com). But there are other wines, both red and white, that can work with tomatoes, such as an Italian barbera, because of their acidity.
"When tomatoes are cooked in a multi-ingredient dish or in a sauce, such as ratatouille or marinara, they're less harsh and their acid edge is softened," she noted in an e-mail interview. "With these dishes, you can try other juicy Italian reds, such as Valpolicella, sangiovese and dolcetto. They all have complementary ripe red fruit aromas, a touch of spice and a mouth-awakening acidity."
MacLean said pinot noirs from such cool climate regions as Burgundy, New Zealand and Oregon have a tartness to hold up to tomatoes. But warm-climate pinots, such as those from California and Australia, are "too ripe and flabby to hold their own," she said.
Tom Benezra of Sal's Beverage World stores also recommended Italian reds, including Chianti and barbera.
"Rarely does one sit down to a meal of wine and fresh tomatoes alone," he said. "In summer, plain fresh tomatoes make a terrific side dish to grilled beef and lamb, so [those] red wines will work well."
But Benezra doesn't go with sauvignon blanc. He doesn't think New Zealand sauvignon blanc has "enough structure" to stand up to the "robust acidity" of a fresh tomato. As for the French sauvignons like Sancerre and Pouilly Fume, Benezra said they "often show flinty minerality ... which does not do tomatoes any favors."
His choice then? Gruner veltliner from Austria.
"This green wine has a steel structure which readily stands up to a juicy tomato while not competing with its flavors," he said.
He also favors fruity wines like a French Vouvray, made with chenin blanc grapes. He also said dry fino and manzanilla sherries with "their zesty, salty smell ... are a natural match with more strongly flavored fresh tomato dishes such as tomatoes with vinaigrette or gazpacho."
In their book, "What to Drink with What You Eat," authors Karen Page and Andrew Dornenburg recommend a number of wines for tomatoes in their various forms: Pour a rose with raw tomatoes, a Spanish albarino for tomato confit, sangiovese and barbera for cooked tomatoes, and so on.
They also quote Brian Duncan, wine director of Chicago's Bin 36 restaurant. Serve a gewurztraminer with a platter of differently colored tomato slices sprinkled with olive oil, sea salt and basil and, he predicted, "People will think you are a rock star!"
Duncan told the authors that pairing raw tomatoes with the fruity, high-acid German wine would make it seem like you were tasting a tomato "for the very first time."
- - -
A fresh approach
The Good Eating wine tasting panel sampled one Austrian white, two French whites and three Italian reds to discover which worked best with tomatoes purchased at Chicago's Green City Market. As always in these informal blind tastings, the score reflects how well the wine matches up with the food.
2005 Domaine de Bel Air Pouilly Fume
This sauvignon blanc from France's Loire Valley perfectly matched the mouth-feel of the tomatoes. Elegant, with notes of grapefruit and anise, this white wine made the tomato taste even fresher.
(3 corkscrews) $20
2004 Villa Giada Barbera d'Asti Ajan
Aromatic, with notes of spice, clove and black pepper, this Italian red tasted of dark fruit, earth and tomato leaf. The wine highlighted the tomato's natural sweetness.
(2 corkscrews) $19
2005 Gustave Lorentz
Gewurztraminer Reserve
This Alsatian white was better poured on its own. The oily richness of wine got lost amid the tomato's flavors.
(2 corkscrews) $15
2004 Gobelsburger Gruner Veltliner
From Austria, this white offered butterscotch notes offset by a zesty acidity. Most tasters thought the wine overwhelmed the tomato.
(2 corkscrews) $15
2004 Ruffino Chianti Superiore Il Leo
A rich, smoky Italian red with plump fruit flavors underscored by notes of earth. Most tasters thought the wine did not improve when matched with the tomato.
(1 corkscrew) $14
2005 Poderi Luigi Einaudi Dolcetto di Dogliani
An Italian red with a very low profile, this wine's unassuming berry flavors almost disappeared when paired with the tomato's vitality.
(1 corkscrew) $16
-- B.D.
Sources: These wines may or may not be in stock at your local store; inquire first. At least one of these wines was found at these stores: Binny's Beverage Depot stores, Fox & Obel, Schaefer's in Skokie, The Wine Cellar in Palatine, Randall & Vine Wine Shoppe in Algonquin, DiCarlo Fine Wine & Spirits in Mundelein, Tannins in Elmhurst. Prices may vary from store to store. Prices are rounded off.
(4 corkscrews) Excellent (3 corkscrews) Very good (2 corkscrews) Good (1 corkscrew) Fair (No corkscrews) Poor
Chicago Tribune (4)
January 9, 2008
By Bill Daley
Does boeuf bourguignon have to be made with a wine from its namesake region, Burgundy? It's traditional, yes, but it doesn't have to be.
It's no accident that Fiona Beckett, the British food writer, recommends a red from France's Languedoc or Rhone. She wants a more full-bodied wine in her recipe.
Nor does the wine in the pot need to be the same as what's poured in the glass. Wine can lend a great deal of flavor to cooking, but long cooking destroys a fine wine's nuances and layers of complexity.
"Burgundy isn't the only wine that pairs with beef Burgundy, and it isn't even necessarily the best match," added Natalie MacLean, the Canadian wine writer who offers a wine-food matching tool on her Web site, nataliemaclean.com. "I pair the dish with a wide variety of red wines, including Barolo, Bordeaux, New World cabernet sauvignon, Chianti, Cotes-du-Rhone, merlot, syrah and zinfandel. I also match it with full-bodied whites, such as chardonnay and gewurztraminer."
Mark L. Esterman, the Michigan-based wine buyer for Meijer stores, uses whatever red is left over from the night before, so he'll usually go with a cabernet sauvignon or a Bordeaux from Saint Emilion. If he must buy a wine for cooking, he uses "a good wine -- just not an expensive wine."
Efrain Madrigal, wine buyer for Sam's Wines & Spirits, thinks big cabs, Bordeaux and Barolo belong in the decanter, not the pan. He looks for red wine with abundant cherry-plum flavors, fresh acidity and even a little earthiness.
"Lately my go-to cooking red has been the 2006 Casa de la Vega Garnacha from La Mancha, Spain," he said. "It is absolutely marvelous as a cooking wine: vinous, fresh, savory and, of course, it is a dynamite companion when served with the dish it was used in."
Alixe Lischett of Cabernet & Company in Glen Ellyn prefers a Burgundian wine or American pinot noir. She stays away from cabernet sauvignon, zinfandel or heavy syrahs because they might flavor the stew too much.
Another thing about not using a Burgundy, said Sterling Pratt of Schaefer's in Skokie, is coming up with alternative names for the dish.
"Alliteration may be important here," he quipped.
Pratt has a point. While "sirloin shiraz" and "steak sangiovese" could work, boeuf bourguignon just rolls off the tongue ... well, for the French anyway. Here's how to pronounce it: "Beuf boor-gee-NYON."
Boeuf bourguignon
Preparation time: 35 minutes
Cooking time: 3 hours, 30 minutes
Chilling time: 12 hours
Yield: 6 servings
Fiona Beckett prefers to use a fuller-bodied red wine from the Rhone or Languedoc instead of Burgundy in this recipe adapted from "Food, Wine & Friends." Pancetta, an Italian bacon, is sold in specialty markets and some supermarkets; you can substitute regular bacon.
3 tablespoons olive oil
4 1/2 ounces pancetta, coarsely chopped
2 pounds beef chuck, fat trimmed, cut into 1 1/2-inch pieces
3 onions, finely chopped
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 1/2 tablespoons flour
2 cups red wine, plus extra if needed
Bouquet garni of thyme sprigs, parsley stalks and 1 bay leaf
2 tablespoon butter
4 ounces cremini mushrooms, halved
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/8 teaspoon freshly ground pepper
2 tablespoons finely chopped flat-leaf parsley
1. Heat 1 tablespoon of the oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the pancetta; cook, stirring, until lightly browned, about 3-4 minutes. Transfer to a Dutch oven. Add the beef to the skillet, in batches if necessary; cook, turning, until brown on all sides, about 4-5 minutes. Transfer to the Dutch oven.
2. Heat the remaining 2 tablespoons of the oil in the skillet. Lower heat to medium; add the onions. Cover; cook, stirring occasionally, 10 minutes. Stir in the garlic; cook, stirring occasionally, until the mixture begins to caramelize, about 15 minutes.
3. Stir in flour; cook, stirring, 1 minute. Stir in the wine. Raise the heat to medium-high; heat to a boil. Pour the onion mixture over the meat in the Dutch oven; add the bouquet garni. Heat to a boil. Lower heat to a simmer; cook until meat is just tender, about 2 1/2 hours. Remove from heat; cool to room temperature. Refrigerate 12 hours.
4. Return the stew to room temperature, about 20 minutes. Heat to a boil over medium-high heat; lower heat to a simmer.
5. Meanwhile, heat the butter in a medium skillet over medium-high heat. Add the mushrooms; cook, stirring, until lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Stir the mushrooms into the stew; cook until flavors come together, about 10-15 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Add more wine for a pronounced wine flavor, if you like. Sprinkle with parsley.
Nutrition information per serving:
462 calories, 63% of calories from fat, 32 g fat, 12 g saturated fat, 111 mg cholesterol, 9 g carbohydrates, 32 g protein, 310 mg sodium, 2 g fiber
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Ranging far from Burgundy
The only Burgundy wine in this informal blind tasting came in dead last in scoring, both on its own and when paired with a beef stew made in the style of bourguignon. The wine was just too austere. Ratings below reflect how well the wine worked with the beef stew.
2006 Dona Paula Estate Malbec
A steal at $13, this deep purple beauty smelled of dark berries and earth and coated the palate seductively. Berry fruitiness was sparked with black pepper and balanced with tannins. The stew enhanced the wine's flavor, accenting the layers of spice.
(3 corkscrews) $13
2005 Martin Codax Ergo Rioja
This tempranillo-based red from Spain had a jammy berry flavor reined in by plenty of acidity and tannins. Short, bright finish. The stew gave the wine more complexity, toning down the berry and bringing up earthy notes.
(3 corkscrews) 13
2004 Penfolds Bin 407 Cabernet Sauvignon
Tasters liked this Aussie a lot on its own and with the stew; their scores barely budged. Most felt the stew brought out the fruitiness in an otherwise lean but powerful wine. Some, however, thought the wine was overwhelmed by the meat.
(3 corkscrews) $20
2005 Bogle Vineyards Pinot Noir Russian River Valley
With its light color and earthy nose, this California red seemed oh-so-Burgundian. Cherry and berry flavors were augmented by notes of earth and black pepper. The wine's score dipped slightly when paired with the meat.
(2 corkscrews) $15
2002 Chateau Perron Lalande de Pomerol
A Bordeaux blend of merlot, cabernet franc and cabernet sauvignon, this wine was terrific on its own with good mouthfeel, assertive barnyard aroma, and notes of earth, stone and black pepper overlaying the fruit. The stew overwhelmed the wine, muting its force.
(2 corkscrews) $22
2005 Rene Lequin-Colin Bourgogne
Au courant with its screw cap and its varietal (pinot noir) labeling, this Burgundian red did not impress panelists very much. Most found it thin and sharp, but one taster thought that's what a rich, hearty stew needed for balance.
(2 corkscrews) $22
This story also appeared in the Orlando Sentinel.
Chicago Tribune (5)
March 5, 2008
By Bill Daley
Muscat is an ancient grape poised for new attention from adventurous wine lovers looking for a fragrant wine that comes in a wide range of styles from dry to sweet.
Chicago-area retailers have seen the wine growing in popularity. Tracy Lewis Liang, wine and spirits director at Treasure Island Foods stores, has noticed a recent uptick in sales. She said the renewed interest is because people are getting over the idea that fruity means sweet and unsophisticated.
"Muscat is one of those grapes like riesling and chenin blanc that can make any style of wine from bubblies to dry dinner wines to wonderful dessert wines," she said.
Hundreds of muscat varieties are grown for winemaking or for table grapes or raisins. Two of the top varieties are muscat a petits grains, used for dry Alsatian wines, and the sweet muscat de Beaumes-de-Venise, according to "The Sotheby's Wine Encyclopedia."
"This grape is like Silly Putty," said Efrain Madrigal, wine director of Sam's Wines & Spirits. "You can make it into any style of wine you want ... I think its versatility is why it continues to captivate winemakers."
Grown around the world, from Europe to Australia to California to North Africa, muscats share a distinct perfume.
"From flowery and dry versions in Austria and Alsace to nectarlike potions from California and Australia, aromatics is the key," said Doug Jeffirs, director of wine sales for Binny's Beverage Depot stores. "Nothing else is so much like pure grape essence, like biting into the ripest grapes right off the vine. That's why muscat has, and always will have, its own place in the wine world."
Don't think you've ever had muscat? Well, sparkling Asti (once known as Asti spumante) is made from muscat, as is its fizzy cousin, moscato d'Asti. Today, Asti is one of the most popular Italian wines made.
Tom Benezra of Sal's Beverage World theorizes the newfound attention to muscat wines is because there's increased interest in sparkling wines.
"Moscato d'Asti is showing the greatest increase in part because of its frizzante style," he said. "With its obvious grapy flavors, gentle bubbles and sweet finish, the wine is an easy crowd pleaser. Moscato d'Asti pairs well with most desserts and its unusually low alcohol, typically 5 to 7 percent, makes it an ideal after-dinner cocktail."
Janel Syron, sommelier at WineStyles Belmont in Chicago, said that muscats, like rieslings, appeal especially to wine newbies because they're generally sweeter in style and fit in with the sweeter drinks most Americans are used to.
"They are great wines to help ease you into wine drinking without intimidating you," she said.
Natalie MacLean, the Canadian-based wine writer and editor of an online wine newsletter (nataliemaclean.com), believes the dryer styles are catching on fast because they pair well with seafood, poultry, pork and veal.
"Muscat is one of the great underrated wines in the world," she said. "Buy it now while it's still reasonably priced."
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Sweet wins the day
Six muscats from around the world, three dry and three rather sweet, were the focus of this blind tasting. Panelists clearly preferred the sweeter styles, which had a vibrant fullness the drier muscats lacked.
2006 Martin & Weyrich Moscato Allegro
Made in the style of an Italian moscato d'Asti, this California wine had an elegant spark thanks to lots of acidity. Slightly spritzy, the wine smelled of honey and pears. Serve with apple tart, strawberry shortcake.
(3 corkscrews) $12
2007 Benessere Muscat di Canelli Frizzante
The nose of this just-released wine from California's Napa Valley had a touch of rubbery funk nestled in among the floral scents. The wine's mild fizziness helps cut the sweetness. Serve with roast chicken stuffed with dried apricots, poached pears or triple-cream cheeses.
(3 corkscrews) $25
2006 St. Supery Moscato
From California, this last of the sweeter muscats has plenty of grape flavor and a soft yet sugary finish. The wine smelled of honeyed cooked fruit.
(2 corkscrews) $17
2003 Domaine Zind-Humbrecht Herrenweg de Turckheim Muscat
From France's Alsace region, this dry wine offered plenty of minerals, a pronounced flavor of grapes and violets and a sweet honeyed aroma. Serve with shrimp de Jonghe, sauteed scallops, Virginia ham.
(2 corkscrews) $40
2004 Vignalta Sirio Muscat
From Italy's Veneto region, a dry muscat with notes of washed stone, apples and even a whiff or two of salami. Tart finish. Serve with melon and prosciutto, charcuterie, roast chicken.
(2 corkscrews) $14
2003 Jean Leon Terrasola
Made of 85 percent muscat, 10 percent parellada and 5 percent gewurztraminer, this Spanish blend had a petroleum-like nose and taste. Notes of stone and pear, very tangy aftertaste. Serve with flounder in beurre blanc sauce, poached pears.
(2 corkscrews) $16
Sources: These wines may or may not be in stock at your local store; inquire first. At least one of these wines was found at these stores: Binny's Beverage Depot, Sal's Beverage World, Sam's Wines & Spirits, Artisan Cellars, Fine Wine Brokers, Fox & Obel, Treasure Island Foods, WineStyles Belmont, Cabernet & Co. in Glen Ellyn, DiCarlo Fine Wine & Spirits in Mundelein, Dobby's World Wide Wine & Liquors in Palatine, WineStyles in Palatine, WineStyles in Woodridge. Prices may vary from store to store. Prices are rounded off.
Tampa Bay Online also published this on March 10, 2008.
Chicago Tribune (6)
September 2, 2008
By Bill Daley
Finding only two domestic pinot blanc brands, one from Oregon and the other from Long Island, sitting ignored on the very bottom shelf of the "other whites" section at Sam's Wines & Spirits' Marcey Street store underscored visually just how below-the-radar this grape variety remains.
Oz Clarke, the British wine writer, once famously compared pinot blanc to Cinderella because the grape variety always seems overshadowed by other grapes. Certainly that is the case here in the U.S., where pinot blanc is snubbed. Too bad, because pinot blanc can have a lively acidity, a refreshing crispness and appealing body.
"It is a wine that is round, full and elegant without having an odd tartness on the finish," said Charlene Pontrelli of WineStyles in Woodridge. The wine should not be citrusy but more like an apple, she added, with "a hint of creaminess and a touch of nuttiness on the finish."
While there are those, like Tom Benezra of Sal's Beverage World stores, who think "pinot blanc and 'great' is somewhat oxymoronic," others like Alixe Lischett of Cabernet & Co. in Glen Ellyn savor its appeal.
"I think pinot blanc can be wonderful with food, especially fowl like the Thanksgiving turkey or your everyday chicken," she said. "It's not usually as dry as chardonnay so I feel it makes a better pairing with the bird. Its nose is slightly fruity, more ripe apple than anything, and a good one has some hints of spice and honey on the palate."
Perhaps pinot blanc is suffering from an identity problem: You've got to know it to love it. And, like other white grape varieties identified with France's Alsace region, pinot blanc has had difficulty in the American market despite the plus of being labeled by grape type. Though a white mutation of pinot gris, which is a lighter-colored version of pinot noir, pinot blanc was long linked to chardonnay because it had a similar if less fragrant style, according to "The Oxford Companion to Wine."
The confusion extended into the vineyards. In Australia, "The New Wine Lover's Companion" reports, much of what was called pinot blanc was found to be chardonnay while some of California's oldest pinot blanc vines were actually another variety called melon de bourgogne.
Pinot blanc also goes by other names in other countries. It's "pinot bianco" in Italy (not to be confused with pinot blanco, which is chenin blanc). It's "wiessburgunder" in Austria and Germany, "beli pinot" in Croatia and "clevner" or "klevner" in some corners of Alsace.
In Alsace, where pinot blanc has attained the most renown, the grape is often blended with other varieties, notably auxerrois, but is sold as "pinot blanc." Indeed, there's no limit on how much auxerrois can be added, it can even be in the majority, and still be billed as pinot blanc, said Louise Jordan, a spokeswoman for the Alsace Wine Council, an industry group.
In the United States, Oregon and parts of California are the most notable growers of pinot blanc. You will likely have to look hard for it in Chicago-area stores. Offering a reason why is Bill Newton, special projects manager for Binny's Beverage Depot stores.
"We only have a couple domestic pinot blancs, Elk Cove from Oregon and Valley of the Moon from California," he said. "Part of the problem is that there is not a great deal of demand for pinot blanc so not much is planted. The best domestic pinot blancs I have tasted have been when I visited Oregon. St. Innocent, Witness Tree, Bethel Heights all have pinot blanc, but often they are only available through the winery due to small production."
Sounds like what he's saying is for us to get more pinot blanc we all need to drink more pinot blanc. That shouldn't be too hard. Pinot blanc goes with many foods. Wine writer Natalie MacLean posts numerous pairing possibilities on her Web site, nataliemaclean.com: corned beef, brie, chicken Caesar salad, Asian-style noodles, sashimi, leek and onion dishes, even gefilte fish.
Give pinot blanc a spin in your wine glass. Let me know what you think.
The tasting: Back to the source—Alsace
Although all hail from the French province of Alsace, these seven pinot blancs each had its own personality. Some were golden and full-bodied like a chardonnay while others seemed paler, more reserved. The Good Eating tasting panel clearly preferred the bolder pinot blancs.
2005 Albert Boxler Reserve
Crisp green apple notes and touches of grapefruit balance an almost grapey sweetness in this pinot blanc. Fresh and juicy. Serve with pan-fried trout, kung pao chicken, tacos al Pastor.
$28
2005 Albert Mann
Colored gold like chardonnay and richly scented with notes of apple, pear and stone, this wine had a slightly oily texture that enriched the pineapple, apple and peach flavors. Serve with seared scallops, chicken tikka masala.
$16
2004 Marcel Deiss Bergheim
There was a certain brown tinge to this pinot blanc. Expect notes of apple, honey and stone on the nose. The flavor is of apricots and peaches; acidity keeps the sweetness in check. Nice, long finish. Serve with an Alsatian onion tart, grilled sausages.
$25
2005 Domaine Bruno Sorg
A light gold, this wine had a lively citrusy nose and tasted like pear, apple and mango, with a hint of butterscotch on the finish. Serve with crab rangoon, cashew chicken.
$13
2005 Trimbach
Nearly colorless, but with flavor notes of apple, grape and black pepper. Supporters liked it well enough but doubters found it a tad watery. Serve with sauteed mushrooms, turkey burgers.
$13
2006 Lucien Albrecht Cuvee Balthazar
A very aromatic wine, this creamy pinot blanc was ripe the flavors of peaches and plums. Serve with Thai green curry, cheese quiche, roasted chicken.
$13
2005 Jean Ginglinger Cuvee George
Watery and dull, a number of tasters wrote. Others found it more palatable, with a minerally nose and tart fruit flavor. Serve with grilled shrimp, choucroute.
$18
Sources: These wines may or may not be in stock at your local store; inquire first. At least one of these wines was found at these stores: Binny's Beverage Depot, Sam's Wines & Spirits. Prices may vary from store to store. Prices are rounded off.
Chicago Tribune (7)
September 10, 2008
By Bill Daley
Chicken wings, no matter how they're prepared, are among the simplest but memorable pleasures of life. Be sure to mark the occasion with a glass of wine.
Wine?
Well, yes. Beer may be the traditional choice for wings, especially those sauced up in classic Buffalo style. With a little bit of experimentation, though, you can find just the right wine for whatever type of wings you are serving—even the honey barbecue wings used in Good Eating's tasting.
Natalie MacLean, author of "Red, White and Drunk All Over," recommends an off-dry riesling or a fruity merlot with honey barbecue wings.
"The sweetness and tangy flavors in the wings need a wine with a touch of sweetness, whether that's some residual sugar in the riesling or fruit ripeness in the merlot," MacLean said. "But, for fun, try a spumante. This lightly sparkling, off-dry Italian bubbly is amazing with many honey barbecue dishes but with chicken wings it's divine."
What wine to serve with chicken wings matters because we Americans eat so many of them. The National Chicken Council estimates 12 billion chicken wings, some 2.6 billion pounds, will be marketed in 2008. And that's just wings sold as wings, not the wings still attached to the bird.
I posed the "wing-wine" question to a number of Chicago-area experts and common themes emerged. The perfect wing wines would be crisp, refreshing and able to play well with the often bold flavors of the various sauces used as glazes.
Tom Benezra of Sal's Beverage World touts riesling, among other wine varieties, to pair with wings.
"Riesling and chenin blanc in their California and Washington state versions provide refreshing fruitiness and a crisp finish without the minerality of Old World styles, making for a smooth combination," he said. "Anyone looking for an excuse to drink white zinfandel has found it here. It's a perfect match, both in terms of its soft, fruity flavor and its all-American heritage."
Barbara Rooks of Schaefer's in Skokie recommends Wente's Riverbank riesling, with its 24 percent share of gewurztraminer, because of its greater weight and spiciness. She also thinks an Austrian gruner veltliner, such as those made by Rainer Wess, would work, especially because the wine has a note of nutmeg on the finish.
Rooks' favorite wing wine is a Spanish red, a garnacha like Monte Oton. She thinks the wine's light cherry flavor and spiciness works with the heat and flavors of the wings.
Go with red Rhone varieties if the wings are slathered with barbecue sauce, suggested Bill Newton, wine and special events manager for Binny's Beverage Depot.
"I would look at a Central Coast syrah," he said. "Beckmen syrah and Beckmen Cuvee Le Bec, which is made from a blend of Rhone varietals, would both go well with the barbecue sauce. The smoky, spice flavor profile in these two wines would be a great match."
Efrain Madrigal of Sam's Wines & Spirits is not so convinced red wine can work with wings, especially Buffalo wings.
"The vinegary hot sauce would kill just about all reds," he said. "Rosés and whites would be better, but I would go with something bubbly. Champagne or methode champenoise styles may be too austere, so I would go with a softer, creamier prosecco. Prosecco also tends to have a bit lower alcohol, so it won't amplify the heat from the wing sauce."
Standing up to honey barbecue
Admittedly, there's a certain over-the-top zaniness in pairing a $110 bottle of French Champagne with a mess of honey barbecue chicken wings ordered from the Wing Zone restaurant in Evergreen Park. But it works—and provides a little comic relief in these dire times.
The Atlanta-based Wing Zone chain sells chicken wings in 25 different flavors; honey barbecue is one of the faves. Makes sense as there is a lot of honey barbecue this and honey barbecue that out there. It's a flavor that needs to be paired with many different wines to get the right match. Wing Zone's honey barbecued wings had a pronounced but appetizing smoky aroma. The sauce was dark, sticky, sweet and just a little spicy. The chicken was fried until golden and crunchy before being sauced.
For Good Eating's blind tasting, there were six wines: three white, one sparkling rosé, two reds. Each wine was sampled on its own and scored. Then the wine was paired with the wings and scored again. It is that wing-matching score given below.
2007 Grgich Hills Estate Fume Blanc
This tart, crisp sauvignon blanc had grapefruit on the nose and a flavor that offered touches of pear, stone and black pepper. Tasters loved this Napa Valley white on its own and found it ably supported the wings. 3 corkscrews
$28
1998 Pol Roger Rosé
Ah, the decadence: bubbly and wings. Yet, this pretty salmon-colored sparkler was great on its own. There was a toasty note to the nose and the crisp flavor was enlivened with touches of tart berries. The Champagne balanced the sweetness of the sauce while highlighting the pepperiness of the chicken. 3 corkscrews
$110
2006 Joel Gott Zinfandel
Terrific on its own, this California red was aromatic with notes of cedar, incense, spice and blackberries. Most tasters thought the zin helped the wings by cutting the sauce's richness. A few naysayers thought the wings were overwhelmed by the wine, thus dropping its score slightly. 3 corkscrews
$15
2006 Torres Sangre de Toro
This inexpensive Spanish garnacha blend had notes of spice and raspberry on the nose. The rich fruit flavor was overlaid with spice, wood and black pepper. The red worked well with the wings, although some panelists worried the wine might be a little too heavy. 3 corkscrews
$8
2006 Dry Creek Chardonnay
This Russian River Valley white had that classic chardonnay nose of toasty oak. The flavor was crisp, with notes of apple, pear and oak. Tasters thought the match was workable but not very exciting. One panelist thought the oak of the wine was too much with the smoke of the wings. 2 corkscrews
$18
2006 Bonny Doon Le Cigare Blanc
A blend of grenache blanc and roussane, this California white had a charmingly floral aroma but tasted somewhat watery. The chicken wings gave the wine some sass. 2 corkscrews
$18
Sources: These wines may or may not be in stock at your local store; inquire first. At least one of these wines was found at these stores: Binny's Beverage Depot, Sam's Wines & Spirits, Sal's Beverage World, Cabernet and Co. in Glen Ellyn, DiCarlo Fine Wines & Spirits in Mundelein, Dobby's World Wide Wine & Liquors in Palatine, Schaefer's in Skokie, The Wine Cellar in Palatine. Prices may vary from store to store. Prices are rounded off.
Corkscrew ratings
4 Excellent
3 Very good
2 Good
1 Fair
None: Poor
Chicago Tribune (8)
November 5, 2008
White wines buoy up clam chowder
By Bill Daley
Whether your idea of clam chowder is Boston's bowl of creamy goodness, Manhattan's tomatoey brine or Connecticut's vibrant clear broth, team this classic dish with a glass of chilled white wine.
A white wine will give you the refreshing crispness to stand up to the full-throttled clam flavor, while a sense of fruitiness—a touch of sweetness, even—will flatter the chowder's innate saltiness.
The one variable that may change is the wine's weight or profile, as noted by Natalie Maclean, the Canadian wine writer who offers food and wine pairing suggestions on her Web site, nataliemaclean.com.
"Clam chowders in a clear base go swimmingly with crisp whites such as pinot grigio, chenin blanc and pinot blanc," she said. "When it comes to richer chowders with milk or cream bases, go for a more full-bodied, opulent white such as an oaked chardonnay from California or Chile."
"Another interesting twist is viognier from the Rhone Valley in France," she added. "It's also highly aromatic with a voluptuous texture and has a bit of sweetness to marry with such a robust dish."
Dru Melton, general manager and chef for Soupbox restaurants, recommends chardonnays, especially those with "slight citrus hints" to offset the chowder.
Steve Tindle, wine and spirits director for Shaw's Crab House restaurants, recommends an Alsatian pinot gris for its richness and hint of sweetness to match with creamy chowders.
As for a wine with Manhattan clam chowder, he'd look for an earthier tone alongside a crisp minerality. His pick? A Greek assyrtico from Domaine Sigalas.
"It's great with raw oysters; it will work here," he said.
Standing up to the chowder
Any wine paired with the simplest clam, broth, potato and onion soup still has to have character of its own. We tried six different bottles. As with all food and wine pairings, the Good Eating rating reflects how well the match was regarded by panelists.
2005 Rolly Gassmann Riesling: This Alsatian white had a clear sweet but spicy note and a citrusy tang on the finish. The chowder's saltiness underscored the wine's sweetness and complexity. $28
3 corkscrews
2007 River's Edge Pinot Gris: From Oregon's Umpqua Valley, this wine had a honeysuckle-like aroma with a touch of tropical fruit and flavors of flowers and minerals. The chowder gave depth to the wine. $15
3 corkscrews
2006 Pazo Senorans Albarino: Tied with the wine below, this Spanish white from Rias Baixas scored slightly higher on its own. The flavor was fresh, crisp, herbal with grapefruit in the finish. The wine's tang accentuated the clammy flavor of the chowder. $25
2 corkscrews
2006 J.C. Chatelain Pouilly-Fume: This sauvignon blanc from the Loire had a creamy minerality with a richness that held up well to the robust chowder. $25
2 corkscrews
Simonnet Febrve Cremant de Bourgogne: This non-vintage rosé sparkler from France's Chablis region had a liveliness, an assertive acidity, yeast notes and tart fruitiness, but it was a bit too delicate for the chowder, losing nuance. It tied with the following wine. $16
2 corkscrews
2006 Stuhlmuller Vineyards Chardonnay: This Alexander Valley wine was the favorite of the group on its own. The flavor was fruity yet tart with touches of herbal notes. But the wine made an unremarkable match with the chowder. $22
2 corkscrews
Chicago Tribune (9)
March 4, 2009
By Bill Daley
Ethiopians have for centuries made a honey wine known as tej. You can sometimes find this mead-like beverage for sale at some Ethiopian restaurants. Or, you could try a mead made domestically.
For most diners looking for that Ethiopian meal out at a restaurant or for takeout, the drink of choice most likely will be beer or a grape-based wine.
The question is: What sort of wine to pour with Ethiopia's highly seasoned meat and vegetable dishes, most of which are served on rounds of injera, the tart Ethiopian flat bread made from teff flour.
Tom Benezra of Sal's Beverage World stores, located in the Chicago suburbs, wants a wine with an "earthy minerality" alongside the fruitiness to enliven the food. That's why he goes with Old World or Old World-influenced white wines. He particularly likes a South African chenin blanc or a French Vouvray to counter the berbere spice paste, a widely used combination of red pepper, cardamom, cinnamon, clove, onion, garlic and other seasonings, that provides zip in many Ethiopian dishes.
For red wine drinkers, the fruity-spicy combination found in California zinfandel and Australian shiraz will work especially well with beef dishes," he said. "Expect some fireworks in your mouth if the dish is hot."
Natalie MacLean, a wine writer who runs an online food and wine matcher at her Web site, nataliemaclean.com, likes cabernet sauvignon with lamb-based Ethiopian dishes.
"But stick with New World cabs that are more fruit-forward and can also handle the spices in the dish," she added. With doro wot, the Ethiopian chicken and egg stew, MacLean recommends an oaked chardonnay for a white or a syrah for a red.
"These deep, voluptuous wines will marry nicely with the richness of the dish," she said.
The tasting
We tried three reds, two white and a honey wine to find a good match for doro wot, the popular Ethiopian chicken and egg stew. Why a honey wine? It's a traditional beverage in Ethiopia. The big winner? A South African chenin blanc. It scored first on its own and when paired with the doro wot. As with all food-wine ratings, the final score reflects how well the wine and the food worked together.
2007 Mulderbosch Chenin Blanc
This South African white had a brilliant light yellow color, a jazzy herbal nose and a mouthwatering crispness. The richness of the doro wot cut the wine's tartness while the wine made the stew taste spicier.
$15
2006 Yangarra Grenache McLaren Vale Old Vine
This big Australian red had a nose of eucalyptus and smoke. The flavor offered lots of black cherry fruit and a touch of mint. The wine and the doro wot balanced each other well; the wine's flavor lingered on the palate.
$24
NV Wild Blossom Meadow Mead
Tasters loved this Chicago honey wine's intense clove scent. A refreshing acidity kept sweetness in check. But panelists weren't so sure how the mead worked with doro wot. Some thought the wine's spices gave the stew a delicious zap, yet others thought the mead didn't work with all of the stew's ingredients, especially the hard-cooked egg.
$13.
2006 Georges Duboeuf Fleurie
A red from one of so-called cru villages of France's Beaujolais region. The nose was a tad musty, and the flavor was lean on fruit, but the doro wat's seasoned sauce reinvigorated the wine to a degree.
$15
2004 Kim Crawford Chardonnay, Tietjen & Briant Vineyards
This white from New Zealand's Gisborne wine region was classic chard: color, aroma and flavor. Expect notes of vanilla, oak, toast. The texture of the buttery wine made the doro wot seem plusher.
$17
2005 Ajello Majus Nero d'Avola
Solo was a terrific Sicilian red, with an extraordinary nose of tea, tobacco and cedar and a lush fruit flavor kept in check by just the right degree of tannin. But the wine lost its luster with the doro wot. The two vied too much for attention, reducing each other.
$11
City TV CityLine
November 20, 2009
By Suzanne Ellis
Natalie MacLean first had the idea to write about wine on a seemingly innocuous trip to the grocery store back in 1999.
Groggy and sleep-deprived -- she was on maternity leave at the time -- she picked up a local food magazine and started flipping through it. That’s when it hit her.
“They had all this beautiful food photography, recipes and so on, but no wine,” MacLean told CityLine.ca in a recent phone interview from her home in Ottawa. “I thought, well, I’ve taken a sommelier course. I know about the Internet, so I pitched them a story about wine on the Internet. They went for it, really liked it, and that became a regular column.”
That column gave MacLean the confidence she needed to cold-call editors of other magazines to pitch them on articles about wine -- the response was overwhelmingly positive and when the end of her maternity leave rolled around she decided not to go back to her former job in the high-tech world (she worked for a California-based computer company).
“I really enjoyed my job but there was nothing like writing about booze for a living,” she laughed.
Ten years on, MacLean has received countless accolades for her wine writing, including four James Beard Journalism Awards, and her 2006 book Red, White and Drunk All Over was selected as the Best Wine Literature Book at the Gourmand World Cookbook Awards. MacLean’s popularity stems in part from her insistence on eliminating the 'snob factor' so often associated with wine appreciation, and focusing instead on the sheer pleasure of enjoying a glass.
“I think there is something more to wine than almost any other drink,” she enthused. “There’s a reason we don’t have orange juice critics. It’s the buzz. There’s something that compels people when it comes to wine. It’s not a vodka shooter that you just knock back. There’s something in that glass that’s interesting even if you don’t want to spend a lot of time analyzing it.”
The idea of marrying wine and the Internet was pretty much unheard of back in 1999, but because MacLean worked in the technology field prior to writing about wine she knew being online would help her to reach a wider audience of wine enthusiasts. In addition to her website, www.nataliemaclean.com, where she posts columns and reviews, she sends out an e-newsletter to 103,000 subscribers and counting, and this past June launched food and wine pairing mobile applications for the BlackBerry and the iPhone.
“It started with the number of questions I received on food and wine pairing, by far the most of any other wine-related topic,” MacLean explained. “So I played around with it and thought, there’s got to be an easy way to answer people’s questions because they don’t want a whole article answer they just want to know, ‘What goes with my pepperoni pizza?’”
MacLean is also on Twitter (follow her @NatalieMacLean) and Facebook.
“I love it. I feel so connected to the wine world and what makes wine lovers passionate. They’re right on it, they call you on anything. I have this group of people, about 100 of them, and I call them ‘Wine Lovers for Better Grammar.’ They always tell when I misplace a comma or something in the newsletter,” she said.
“Wine is one of those things that I think really works well online. I welcome people to take wine at any level, the level of, ‘I like it. I’m going to drink it. I’m not analyzing it. Don’t bother me.’ But then if you want to dig into it, there’s so much information about wine. There’s that intermediate level of, ‘I just want to know what works here. What wine with this dish that I’m cooking?’ That’s the sensory, hedonism, very fun level of wine that most people enjoy.”
MacLean is currently working on her second book, and rest assured it will be as down-to-earth and approachable as her last.
"The more you try wine, and the more relaxed you are about it, the more you will get into it," she offers. "It can lead to that deeper appreciation, but we don’t have to get all tense about it up front and think that we need to know our Cabernets from our Shirazes in order to pick a decent bottle. Only you are the expert on your palate. In the end you have to please yourself."
CNNMoney.com
October 26, 2007
By Jessica Dickler
NEW YORK (CNN.com) -- From a box of Franzia to a bottle of 1961 Chateau Petrus, there are few drinks with such a wide range of quality and cost as wine.
As wine has grown more popular, more and more producers are getting into the market with inexpensive offerings designed to be consumed immediately, pushing overall prices down steadily.
But at the same time, demand has soared for premium wines, which are grown in limited quantity and released in moderation -- resulting in record breaking prices.
This Sunday, an Imperial of a 1961 vintage of Château Petrus (which is the equivalent of eight regular bottles) is expected to sell for $150,000 at an auction at the Columbia Yacht Club in Chicago. That would make it one of the most expensive bottles of wine ever sold at auction.
(For the record, the most expensive bottle sold to date was a 1945 Château Mouton-Rothschild that fetched $310,700 at Sotheby's in February of this year, according to Vinfolio.)
The Château Petrus is part of a large collection of bottles of Bordeaux that also includes a Jeroboam (equivalent to six regular bottles) of 1945 Château Mouton-Rothschild, and Magnums (equivalent to two regular bottles) of 1921, 1947 and 1961 Château Petrus; 1945 and 1982 Château Mouton-Rothschild; and 1961 Château Latour-A-Pomerol.
How to win at a wine auction
"There are really two kinds of wine now, one is for drinking, and the other is for collecting. Like rare stamps, collectible wines can take on inexplicably high price levels," said Princeton University economics professor Orley Ashenfelter who publishes a wine newsletter called Liquid Assets.
"I drink my wine and use my postage stamps to mail letters, and I continue to marvel at those who don't."
Collectors on the other hand, may want to make a bottle of this caliber the showpiece of a high-end wine cellar without ever intending to drink it. Rather they would hope to resell it in the future, hopefully for a profit, Ashenfelter said.
Vying for a vineyard
The price of a good bottle of wine is largely based on the cost of production, according to Natalie MacLean, editor of a wine newsletter and author of Red, White and Drunk All Over: A Wine-Soaked Journey from Grape to Glass.
Factors from the quality of the vineyard property and its orientation (an eastern exposure provides more gentle sunlight) to the type of barrel (oak or otherwise) and length of the cork, all contribute to the price a good bottle can command.
But, "after a certain point the pricing becomes irrational," said MacLean. The value of luxury wines is based more on factors such as prestige, rarity and reviews.
Of the high-status wines on the market, the Château Petrus is considered among the best. That's because it's from the prestigious right bank of the Gironde river in the Bordeaux region of France.
In addition, large bottles, like an Imperial, are rare and can command a significant resale premium over standard bottle sizes, according to MacLean. Many also believe that wine in bigger bottles ages more slowly and therefore has a longer life.
And on top of that, 1961 is ranked among the best vintages for Bordeaux, and its peak drinking window is right now, making it a prime buy.
"There's no saying where the price could go," according to Edward Robert Brooks, managing director of Edward Roberts International auction house, which is managing the sale. "Blue chip collectibles in any category tend to fare well."
In terms of an investment, "wine is one of the few collectibles you have to destroy to enjoy," he added, and as the number of available collectible bottles diminishes over time, those remaining will be worth more.
MacLean nevertheless warns against buying a wine like this as an investment. "Flipping is always risky," she said. Although, worst case scenario, "you could always drink your liquid assets."
Contra Costa Times
November 25, 2008
By Jessica Yadegaran
As much as we anticipate pairing wine with our Thanksgiving feast, let us not forget: that bird at center-stage is akin to winged tofu. Dry, winged tofu.
Doesn't exactly tickle your wine fancy?
Not to worry. When selecting a wine for the festive meal, it's not the turkey you're pairing to anyway. Rather, it's everything that touches the turkey on your plate: a sea of savory, sweet, creamy and crunchy side dishes that are the true stars of the holiday. For this reason, spry, fruity wines with little age and decent acidity are the best for turkey and its fixings. The great news is that young wines are affordable, widely available and thus perfect for serving large groups in troubled economic times.
Naturally, even traditional dishes such as stuffing and green bean casserole are subject to cultural twists. So it's important to find wines of the moment that have mass appeal, says Lettie Teague, New York-based executive wine editor for Food & Wine Magazine. Teague's taking Chorizo Cornbread Stuffing to her host's home, and probably will arrive with a bottle of Riesling, like Dr. Loosen's Blue Slate from the Mosel in Germany or Dr. Hermann J. Wiemer's from the Finger Lakes region of New York.
"They are affordable and respectable and give us something to talk about," Teague says. "They are wines with a narrative. After all, Thanksgiving is a holiday with a narrative and a history, so I like to bring wines that have a story as well."
Dr. Wiemer was the disciple of the founding father of Finger Lakes Riesling — Dr. Frank — and was one of the first to make a top-notch wine from New York, Teague explains. As for Dr. Loosen: "It's just one of the best properties in the Mosel and Eric Loosen is a renegade for quality," she adds.
Riesling is ideal for Thanksgiving because it has acidity that is not arresting and enough fruit and richness to both stand up to and cut through all the flavors and textures at the table. Plus, the 2007 bottlings just arriving in the market come with high praise, and, in the case of the Loosen Blue Slate, a good price. That's a combination to be thankful for, Teague notes.
For the same reasons of appeal — fruit, acidity and body — she recommends Alexander Valley Pinot Noir for those seeking a red wine. "It's not the big extracted stuff," she says of food-friendly Pinot Noirs such as Handley and Navarro.
Crave a bigger red? Go with Argentine Malbec instead of that tannic, high-alcohol Cabernet Sauvignon, which, with the 3,000 calories the average person consumes at the Thanksgiving meal, would probably send you to bed by sundown. "Malbec is trendy and even though it's bigger and richer than Pinot Noir, it still has lush fruit and firmness," Teague says. A good one is Alamos under the Catena family label, she adds.
Curtis Mann of The Vine at Bridges tasted dozens of wines before creating a three-bottle Thanksgiving sampler for sale in the Danville wine bar and retail shop. The $50-sampler features 2007 bottlings of Simonsig South African Chenin Blanc, Frias Napa Valley Rose and Aubin Cellars "Verve" Pinot Noir from Oregon.
"Chenin Blanc is just a great aperitif wine because it has decent acidity and enough earthiness to blend with food," says Mann, wine director and retail manager at The Vine at Bridges. "It's between Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc so it's very flexible. Rose is fun, easy and those strawberry flavors go well with cranberries and sweeter dishes."
As for the Oregon Pinot Noir, Mann calls it "the ultimate dinner wine." "It has the perfect balance of earth and fruit," he says, adding that the Aubin is dynamite with mushroom-based stuffings. Mann's family is Italian, so he'll be sneaking in Barbera to go with the spaghetti and ravioli that is served every year. "It's the ultimate tomato sauce wine because it has such high acidity, so much fruit and lack of tannins."
Tannins are evil when it comes to turkey because they dry out your mouth. And, unlike most game and poultry, turkey meat is already very dry in texture. So you need a mouth-watering wine to complement it, says Natalie MacLean, author of "Red, White and Drunk All Over: A Wine-Soaked Journey from Grape to Glass" (Bloomsbury). For reds, she suggests Beaujolais and Zinfandel, which have juicy, berry-ripe flavors that go well with turkey.
Chad Lamprecht of Danville's Corks wine shop recommends the 2005 Watts Old Vine Zinfandel from Lodi. "It's fruit forward and jammy so it complements all the foods at the table," says Lamprecht, Corks' general manager and wine buyer. "And most people love it."
Just like turkey.
Thanksgiving sampler
- Simonsig Chenin Blanc Stellenbosch: Sweet aromas of apples and pears and honey-drenched tropical fruits such as guava and pineapple on palate. Rich and smooth.
- Frias Napa Valley Rose: Zippy acidity, watermelon aromas and strawberry flavors are the cornerstones of this refreshing wine.
- Those eating crab for Thanksgiving can find a match with Aubin Cellars "Verve" Stoller Vineyard Dundee Hills Pinot Noir: Willamette Valley at its finest. A complex yet pretty wine with pomegranate and cherry flavors and earthiness both in the nose and glass.
-- Jessica Yadegaran
Cooking Light
September 2007
By Gretchen Roberts
"Wine likes to grow up slowly in dark, cool conditions," says Natalie MacLean, author of Red, White, and Drunk All Over: A Wine Soaked Journey from Grape to Glass. If it's too hot, the wine will age too quickly. It’s the difference between cooking your dinner in the microwave versus slow-roasting it."
The ideal temperature for storing wine is 55 degrees Fahrenheit, with a humidity level around 75 percent. The cool temperature helps the wine mature at a slow, steady rate, maintaining optimal taste during the storage period. Since most fine wines are plugged with natural cork, and not topped with a synthetic version or a metal screwcap (an option that is increasingly popular with moderately priced wines), cool temperatures and high humidity levels help prevent the cork from becoming dry and brittle, which would allow air into the bottle. Wine that is exposed to air or too much sunlight oxidizes, turns brown, like apple slices, and ends up tasting like spoiled fruit. Storing bottles on their sides also helps keep the cork hydrated.
A wine fridge is convenient for entertaining, since the wines are both close at hand and ready to serve," MacLean says . Alternatively, you could simply expand your basement storage by adding racks and keeping an eye on sudden temperature spikes or dips. As long as the temperature fluctuates gradually, you're OK," MacLean says. "Many people have basements that are naturally cooler than the rest of their homes, and a cool basement is a better place to store wine than a warm house."
If you pour wine daily, are you likely to have several varietals of wine on hand to pair with meals? If so, you'll need the same storage conditions already discussed, but with more space in which to store bottles. "lf you drink a glass of inexpensive wine every day or so, you're probably not buying bottles that need to be aged," MacLean says. "In that case, you don't need a cellar, just a place to put bottles that is away from the extremes of heat and cold."
Expert pick for best storage and accessories for your wine
Natalie MacLean’s pick: Sub-Zero undercounter wine refrigerator ($2,500; 8OO-222-7820 or www.subzero.com ) Why: These fridges provide a great staging area when you're entertaining. You can store up to 45 bottles instead of running back and forth to the cellar. This model is UL-approved meaning it’s safe to use in outdoor kitchen settings.
Crystal-Clear Answers
By Natalie MacLean
Most of us agree that a good glass makes a drink taste better. You can go overboard, though: some glassware companies (and drink snobs) insist on a different glass for every kind of cocktail, spirit, beer and wine. Listen to them describe the design of each glass, and you might think you'd accidentally wandered into a PhD class on structural physics. Let's face it though: buying more than a hundred glasses isn't just expensive, it's impractical—to store and clean them, and even find room for them on the table for dinner or a party.
Besides, just as we're bending traditional rules about matching food and drink nowadays, we're also relaxing our approach to glassware—choosing what pleases us, and what's practical. You really only need three basic glasses, for wine, beer and cocktails. Caterers know this well: they deal with a range of gatherings, and they're experts in what works at a reasonable price and with realistic effort. We asked several to pick their favourite glasses in each category.
Tracey Black and Heather Maclachlan of Ottawa's MacKay Street Epicuria use highball glasses for most mixed drinks, spirits straight up or on the rocks, long drinks, water, punch, pop and juice. Unless they're catering for a martini-based cocktail party, or there's a special request for them, they don't use martini glasses.
They serve beer in a stemmed, tapered beer glass: it's easy to hold while balancing hors d'oeuvres in the other hand. For wine, they prefer an eight-ounce glass with a simple curved bulb for both reds and whites. (When catering for wine tastings, though, they use different glasses for reds and whites.) The two believe that larger glasses are more practical: they don't have to be refilled constantly, and there's room to leave a space at the top—which minimizes the risk of sloshing wine onto clothes or the carpet. As well, the larger wine glass allows guests to swirl the wine and appreciate its aromas.
Susan Bowman of All the Best Fine Foods in Toronto uses a 10 ½ ounce glass for beer, soft drinks and water. She says she chooses glasses that don't have cut or coloured glass as they're more versatile: they work with various place settings and don't obscure the colour of the drink. Bowman favours a flute glass for festive get-togethers: champagne, sparkling wines and many specialty cocktails look elegant in this glass. Plus, she says, the flute is a well-balanced glass that's easy to hold while standing or sitting.
For wine, she likes to use an 8 ½-ounce tulip-shaped glasses. She prefers ones that are durable—that don't break easily, and that fit easily into a standard dishwasher. This means a sturdy stem rather than a thin and delicate one, and a medium height rather than tall. It also means that they should be made of glass rather than crystal, which scratches easily and must be hand-washed.
Ann Dunkley from Toronto's The Moveable Feast uses glassware that has elegant stems and modern designs which work well for dressy cocktail parties. She likes the high ball and double old fashioned glasses: they accommodate just about any cocktail, as well as beer and water. She uses a nine-ounce tulip glass for still wine, but prefers the traditional flute for champagnes and sparkling wines: these wines go flat too quickly in a regular glass.
Dunkley recommends stocking three to five glasses per person. In her experience, some guests will invariably set their empty glass down and forget it; some will switch from one type of drink to another; and some just prefer a clean glass for their next drink. It's not only faster to have clean glasses ready, she says, but it's also cheaper: it costs less to rent extras rather than pay someone to wash them during the event.
There's a wide range of wine glassware available; so if you want to add to your basic collection, start by buying different glasses for red and white wines. Simplicity is still the guiding principle, though: choose one glass with a narrow bowl that can accommodate most styles of white wine—most often this is the glass for Sauvignon Blanc, but most Chardonnays, Rieslings and other popular white wines will drink well from this glass.
For reds, choose a glass with wider bowl to accommodate the robust aromas of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz and Zinfandel. You may also want to get some small dessert wine glasses for Ice Wine, Late Harvest Wine, Port, Sherry and even liqueurs, brandy and cognac.
These extra glasses need not break the bank: many glassware companies—Riedel, Baccarat and Waterford—sell several lines at different price points. Often their value line can even go in the dishwasher. The only thing now is for them to create a glass that makes oxidized wine taste fresh again.
Cater Contacts
MacKay Street Epicuria, Ottawa: 613-745-7356
All the Best Fine Foods, Toronto: 416-928-0569
Moveable Feast, Toronto: 416-969-8962
Glassware Sellers
LCBO Stores across Ontario
William Ashley
Wine Establishment, Toronto: 416-861-1331
C.A. Paradis, Ottawa: 613-731-2866
Blasted Bottles, Ottawa: 613-761-5999
Curve Magazine
November 2008
By Catherine Plato
Though Natalie MacLean is about as sensitive to her wines as the average parent is to her children, she still manages to tackle this seemingly snobby, daunting and inaccessible subject with a lighthearted sense of humor that other wine writers sorely lack. Poetic but still down-to-earth, MacLean’s writing is as addictive as her subject itself.
Her journey in pursuit of great wine began with an introductory wine appreciation course, and has since brought her to vineyards around the world, as well as to the World Food Media Awards, where she recently earned the esteemed title World’s Best Drink Writer.
Though she professes to have only minimal skills in the kitchen, MacLean is brilliant when it comes to matching wine with food—even food you might never imagine having with wine. On her website, nataliemaclean.com, she suggests matches for such oddities as nachos (zinfandel), bacon and eggs (semi-dry sauternne), Rice Krispies squares (off-dry Riesling)and Oreos (vintage port).
However, my personal drinking habits usually correspond more to what’s happening in my psyche than on my palate. I had to wonder: What wine goes best with a broken heart? A bad day? A celebration? Luckily, MacLean had the answers to all these pairings as well.
Let’s Drink to this
Award-winning wine writer Natalie MacLean recommends the perfect sip for any occasion.
Trying to seduce a new woman:
Pinot noir: the romantic grape. It’s so difficult to grow and make, but is seductively sublime when it works. I love those from New Zealand, such as Kim Crawford.
Celebrating victory when gay marriage is legal in California:
Definitely a blended wine here, like a shiraz-cabernet from Australia: lots of fleshy fruit from the shiraz, with newfound structure and support from the cab—just like legally sanctioned love.
Nursing a broken heart:
Banyuls and tawny port are the perfect self-indulgent, poor-little-me wines. They drink well with chocolate and most desserts, even a pint of Häagen-Dazs.
Telling a woman it’s over:
Any high-alcohol wine with a bitter finish will do: Italian amarone is probably best. And skip the Riedel glassware in this situation—a tumbler or shot glass is optimal.
Relaxing after a hard day at work:
Pick a wine you can sip slowly, like a German riesling: low in alcohol but high in flavor, so you won’t pass out on the sofa at 7 p.m.
Meeting your girlfriend’s family for the first time:
Try a medium-bodied wine that will appeal to many palates—one without too much oak, tannin or alcohol. I call these switch-hitter wines, as they go both ways, food-wise. They’re good with meat, chicken, pasta, etc. For example, a California merlot from Beringer.
Coming out to your family:
Try a wine from an overlooked or undiscovered region, such as an Argentinean malbec or a South African shiraz. Your family will be pleasantly surprised at how palatable both the wine and the news can be.
Dallas Morning News
July 10, 2007
By Kim Pierce
A winey friend turned me on to a useful and user-friendly food-and-wine pairing site, put together by author and sommelier Natalie MacLean, who's accumulated a string of prestigious writing awards.
Start your pairing by food (What goes with lobster?) or by wine (rosé, dry). The site not only gives some really good, imaginative pairings, it also links to recipes (Lobster Cakes with Mango Rhubarb Salsa).
The site includes podcasts (How will global warming affect wine?), FAQs, and more. Can't find the match you need? You're invited to e-mail Natalie, and she'll suggest a match for you.
Dallas Morning News (2)
January 21, 2007
By Kim Pierce
It's not too soon to start thinking about V-Day. In that regard, a question came up recently: What wine do you pair with chocolate? It's a good question, because the wrong combination turns chocolate bitter and wine sour. I wrote about this two years ago for V-Day, and the Taste wine-tasting panel came up with chocolate, cheese and wine combos a year ago. Cathy Barber wrote about the unusual combination of scotch and chocolate last year, too.
Here's yet another source to help you negotiate the sweet-and-bitter wine-chocolate shoals: Wine expert Natalie MacLean pairs wine and chocolate desserts on her Web site. Read on for her top 10 combinations.
1. Dark chocolate and a wine from the Banyuls region of France
2. Chocolate-covered biscotti with a recioto della Valpolicella from Italy
3. Chocolate-orange cake with muscat liqueur from Australia (I would add orange muscat from a Texas winery, such as Flat Creek Estate)
4. Chocolate and nuts with a tawny port from Portugal
5. Milk chocolate with a tokaji from Hungary
6. Bittersweet chocolate with an amarone from Italy
7. Chocolate-dipped fruit with a Canadian icewine
8. Chocolate ganache truffles with a Sauternes from France
9. Chocolate-raspberry cheesecake with framboise liqueur from California
10. Chocolate hearts with cream filling with a Spanish cream sherry
These are all generic styles of wines or liqueurs, rather than wines from specific producers, so when you go to the store, you should be able to find a match.
You can go to MacLean's Web site at www.natdecants.com and follow the steps for pairing wine and food to see more matches.
Dayton Daily News
April 29, 2008
By Beth Blair
The Dayton Daily News published the same story as the WNBC New York.
Daytona News-Journal
February 14, 2007
By Jeff Farance
Natalie MacLean, a sommelier and educator, writes for several magazines. "Wine gives me an excuse to meet really interesting, obsessive, passionate people," she said. "So it's my way into people's lives."
"I can tell the story of people's lives through wine."
MacLean described her book as being about "wine and seduction," -- with an emphasis on the human-interest angle that is her entry point in writing.
Wine and seduction go together, she said. "Researchers at the University of Glasgow (Scotland) discovered that the other person appears, on average, 25 percent more attractive after one glass of wine."
What kind of wine should be paired with a Valentine's Day celebration?
Bubbly of most any sort, is practically de rigueur for any special occasion, MacLean said. "Plus, sparkling wines are friendly to most appetizers and desserts. And people are friendlier when paired with them."
"There have been some studies saying women prefer wine over chocolate for Valentine's Day because wine ususally means sharing and spending time together."
But let's not forget the chocolates, she said.
"There are some wines -- maybe port, for example -- that do pair well with chocolate," MacLean said.
"I like to double up on my vices, so wine with chocolate is a great combination."
Daytona News-Journal (2)
February 13, 2008
By Jeff Farance
Think of Valentine's Day, and what color comes to mind? Not white. Maybe pink. Certainly red.
Many will pop the cork on a bottle of bubbly in a romantic gesture. Champagne and other sparklers do, indeed, pair nicely with almost anything. Romance is almost inherent in serving sparkling wine. But, being a contrarian and lover of all wines red, I'm opting for a red Valentine's Day.
Just to bolster my case, I turned to a renowned expert, columnist, accredited sommelier, writer, wine judge, author, raconteur and lovely person, Natalie MacLean (her free Internet newsletter is at www.nataliemaclean.com).
We're both fans of red wines, particularly zinfandels, and we're both admittedly cheap. So still-reasonably-priced zins often are the go-to beverage for almost every occasion.
"Does zin serve you as well as it does me with chocolates, especially dark chocolate?" she asked in a recent e-mail. "I think some tannic fruit is a nice counterpart to dark and even to lighter milk chocolates. I love zinfandel with dark chocolate: The wine's blackberry and plum flavors marry well with the darker flavors of this chocolate."
So there it is. Break out the Hershey's or our own Angell & Phelps (a welcome treat) and uncork a red zin.
Natalie also recommends something I've long loved but not had in ages: "Late harvest zinfandel also works well because of its extra sweetness and richness." It's a dessert wine made by a number of zin producers and usually vinted in half-bottles.
"The lightly fizzy Italian sparkler Brachetto D'Aqui, with its ripe notes of strawberries, would be divine with decadent cake," also notes Natalie.
"Even though I'm serving (sparkling wines) more often, they still aren't exactly a staple," she says. "But I've always felt they're the ultimate pairer with most anything. A (semi-sweet) bubbly would be lovely with a light chocolate dessert. In wine, you can find all the flavors, richness and sweetness of chocolate, but chocolate just doesn't have that added bonus of alcohol!"
Just one recent notable example of a formidable zin is Chase Family Cellars Hayne Vineyards 2003 Napa Zinfandel (an uncheap $45). It promised and delivered ripe black cherry and plum flavors with a background of toasty vanilla. The nose was dark cherry with a hint of volatile eucalyptus, but we also found some mocha notes on the palate that made it ideal for some very dark chocolate. The body was full (not quite chewy, but still a big wine), and the finish extended way past dessert.
So, Valentines, candy's dandy, but, hey, it's hard to drink a toast with it. But wine and chocolate are a hard combination to beat for a Cupid caper.
Daytona News-Journal (3)
April 9, 2008
By Jeff Farance
What a learning experience a wine-tasting can be. And there's an added benefit of that relaxing sensation derived from a few hours of sniffing and sipping.
So here I was, tasting and talking with Marie-Edith Olivier, a regional sales manager for Robert Kacher Selections, an importer of many interesting boutique French wines at various price levels. And she's pouring a white wine whose label, surprisingly to me, proclaims it's a Domaine du Tariquet Sauvignon.
"Sometimes we change the labels for the U.S. market so they display the grape, which is not what we do with most French wines," said the Marseilles native during her tasting at the Port Orange Wine Warehouse.
For about $8, this is a classic sauvignon blanc -- some moderate citrus on the nose, more lemons, limes and pineapples than grapefruit on the palate. The body is moderate and the finish solid. This isn't the aromatic, really grapefruity stuff of New Zealand sauvignon blancs. It was tasty, and I enjoyed it.
But I was mystified. Did the French really do a lot of sauvignon blancs, but, in typical fashion, call them something else? I just couldn't remember.
Too lazy and busy for even an Internet search, I turned to my favorite authority: Natalie MacLean, a sommelier, wine educator and writer, and editor of a free, award-winning wine newsletter at nataliemaclean.com.
"French sauvignon blanc isn't as noticeable on the shelves as is this wine from other regions, such as New Zealand or California," says MacLean. "That's because the grape isn't often noted on French labels. However, both Bordeaux and the Loire Valley produce spectacularly crisp and mouth-watering versions of this wine.
"In the Loire, they're often labeled as sancerre or pouilly-fume. In Bordeaux, sauvignon blanc is blended with the grape semillon to produce a richer style. Some famous labels include Chateau Haut-Brion and Domaine de Chevalier.
"French sauvignon blanc can taste more austere, almost stony, compared to fruitier and more herbal versions from New World regions. But once you develop a taste for it, you'll love the way it pairs with a wide range of dishes."
MacLean includes hundreds of pairings for sauvignon blanc and other wines in her online food-and-wine matching tool at nataliemaclean.com/matcher.
I knew pouilly-fume. I've had them (though they're never labeled as sauvignon blancs and are so minerally and austere, they're not readily apparent as such). They were the basis of wine legend Robert Mondavi's proprietary name for his California sauvignon blanc, "Fume Blanc," which I've enjoyed many times.
So now lovers of this versatile white have more options for sauvignon blancs worldwide.
Decanter Magazine
September 2009
Decanter contributors were lauded for their efforts at the 2009 Louis Roederer International Wine Writers' Awards in London last night.
Margaret Rand, a previous winner of Roederer's Champagne Writer of the Year, was named Feature Writer of the Year for her articles in Decanter, and specialist wine photographer Jon Wyand was given the Artistry of Wine Award.
Tom Stevenson, the Decanter World Wine Awards (DWWA) Regional Chair for Champagne, won the Champagne Writer of the Year while Decanter contributor Tim Atkin MW won the Wine Columnist of the Year Award for his pieces in The Observer, Intelligent Life and Off Licence News. Oz Clarke won the International Wine Book for Bordeaux. Christine Austin of The Yorkshire Post won the Regional Wine Writer of the Year.
Canadian wine writer Natalie MacLean won the Online Wine Writer of the Year. Metcalfe told decanter.com he hoped MacLean's win prompted more writers outside the UK and Europe to enter in future so the awards lived up to their 'international' status.
East Bay Express
March 19, 2008
By Blair Campbell
When a medium-fancy friend of mine recently joined me for dinner at a medium-fancy Bay Area restaurant, she recoiled when our waitress told her the price of certain Syrah: $8 a glass. Her horror wasn't at the cost — although it certainly could have been. Instead, she was realizing that since many of this restaurant's wines were in the $10-15-a-glass range, this $8 glass might very well have been a dollar-store special of dubious quaffability.
Now, this same friend regularly — and happily — purchases bottles of wine for $8 or less. "If it tastes good, I take great personal satisfaction in getting that deal and having a delicious glass of wine at the same time," she says. Still, she's all too aware of the steep restaurant markup on wine. Wines by the glass can be sold for as much or more than the retail price of the bottle — allowing restaurants to immediately recoup their costs and to drive consumers toward purchasing a whole bottle. Bottles are typically priced for two to three times their retail value. "Once you get more savvy about the markup, it does feel a little obnoxious — but I like to pair my food with wine," my friend concludes. "And there's nothing more disappointing than a bad glass of wine."
That love of wine, and fear of disappointment, are just what restaurateurs are banking on — literally. But this phenomenon may be less about greed and more about self-preservation.
"The big thing with wine is, after you open it, it's going to go bad pretty quickly," says Rolan Reichel, an Oakland resident and former restaurateur now working in the beverage industry. Reichel explains that offering wines by the glass can actually be a money loser for restaurants. "Unless you're really busy, you're going to end up with a lot of half-empty bottles at the end of the night. You can lose a lot of money on your wine program." This is why, Reichel explains, you see many restaurants experimenting with different-sized pours, carafes, and other ways of getting the consumer to drink more and try more-expensive brands. "For a lot of restaurants, wine by the glass is a service. That's why people try all these other things. If they made money, they wouldn't tinker with it."
For Rick Mitchell, proprietor of Luka's Taproom and the new Franklin Square Wine Bar in downtown Oakland, "tinkering with it" has meant half off every bottle on Luka's wine list every Sunday night.
"Sunday nights were slower for us, so we wanted a way to bring people in," explains Mitchell, adding that the discount gives patrons who typically order by the glass a good reason to try something new. "We wanted to give people incentive to open the wine list and order a bottle." Ideally this would give some of the higher-priced wines on the list a bit of added exposure — that $80 bottle you'd normally skip right over looks a little more tempting at $40. Unfortunately, says Mitchell, it doesn't really work out that way. "Ninety percent of the people come in and get the cheapest bottle we offer, at half off," he notes with a chuckle.
Luka's 50-percent-off-a-bottle night is just one example of how many restaurants are bowing to an increasingly savvy and wine-thirsty consumer. A comparable trend is the waiving of corkage fees — the amount a restaurant charges when you bring your own bottle — either all the time or on regular no-corkage-fee nights. Anecdotal evidence shows these nights generate huge business; my local place is often booked solid, with a line of walk-ins out the door. There's also a convivial atmosphere, attributable to the fact that restaurants are giving their patrons not just a break from "obnoxious" markups, but also a chance to strut their own wine knowledge and make their own choices about which wines to pair with what's on the menu.
Lest you feel your expertise is lacking in that area, we've enlisted some advice from Natalie MacLean, author of Red, White and Drunk All Over: A Wine-Soaked Journey from Grape to Glass. A noted authority on food-and-wine pairing, MacLean offers an interactive matching tool on NatalieMacLean.com; here she recommends the good varietals and regions to look for at the liquor store when choosing what to drink with various cuisines.
MacLean's suggestions accompany a list of six restaurants we think are noteworthy for their consumer-friendly wine programs. Consider a visit — and if you want to make the night a real steal, consult archived Wineau columns for the best bargains among the varietals mentioned, and where to find them.
Eating Well Magazine
June 2009
The Editor's Pick
Look for a perfect pair with sommelier Natalie MacLean's online Wine and Food Matcher (www.nataliemaclean.com/matcher).
Select a food from the expansive list and receive both red and wine wine recommendations.
Or choose the wine variety and you'll get a long list of food suggestions.
eHow
December 31, 2009
By Linda Natali
"Too much of anything is bad, but too much champagne is just right," opined the late great American author F. Scott Fitzgerald. Many would tend to agree with Ole' Fitzgerald, and fortunately this New Year's may be the first one in a long time that those of us longing to party like rock stars can afford the good stuff.
Shipments of champagne to the United States plummeted 41.2 percent from January to August, according to the Champagne Bureau, the U.S. arm of the region's official trade group. The surplus left in storerooms still exceeds current demand, the excess supply resulted in major price slashing and good deals for the common man. Bargain champagne here we come!
Before you pop the cork to ring in the New Year make sure that you know how to choose quality champagne at an awesome price to get the best bubbly for your New Year's Eve blow-out.
Things You'll Need:
* Champagne
* Money
* Time
* A reason to celebrate (or not)
Step 1: Go for the authentic.
Champagne is a sparkling wine, made in the Champagne region in the North East of France. The only wine that is legally allowed to be called "champagne" is wine that has been produced in this region.
Step 2: Select a well-known marque.
If you aren't a bubbly connoisseur and not exactly sure how to start whittling down your choices from the vast assortment of sparkling wines, it is best stick to the tried and true brands.
These include Bollinger, Charles Heidsieck, Krug, Moet et Chandon, G.H. Mumm, Joseph Perrier, Ruinart, Taittinger and Veuve Cliquot Ponsardin.
Choosing a bottle from one of these well-respected labels is a great start to discovering which champagne best suits your palate.
Step 3: Pick a blend.
Most houses produce several blends or varieties, or "cuvées," of champagne. Nonvintage cuvées are blends that epitomize the house's signature style, with little variation over the years, according to Natalie MacLean, a sommelier and author of "Red, White and Drunk All Over."
Although these bottles are the least expensive produced by a marque, they can be of awesome quality. Often more than 100 different wines from different years are included in the blend.
Vintage or dated bottles are only produced when a season's harvest is remarkably good. "You're going to taste the difference the weather makes each year," MacLean says of vintage bottles, which houses create at their own discretion.
Expect to pay twice the amount of a nonvintage blend - and even more for an exceptionally strong growing year. If you have your heart set on a vintage bottle, do your research and find out which have been good growing years.
Prestige cuvées are a house's creme de la creme and offer you the opportunity to party like a real rock star. We're talking champagnes like Cristal or Dom Perignon. "These wines are, quite simply, the house's best of the best in a vintage year," says Emanuelle Chiche, managing director of The Bubble Lounge, a sparkling wine and champagne bar with locations in New York and San Francisco. Prestige cuvées are held to higher standards of production and are made in limited quantities from the first pressing of the very best grapes. Know that you will definitely pay bigger bucks for the best.
Step 4: Smell the age.
Champagne aromas develop with age. The wine is matured in producers' cellars for at least 15 months for non-vintage champagne, three years for vintage wines and even longer for prestige cuvées, before they are released onto the market.
Generally speaking, the older the bottle the more developed and nuanced its flavor, says Eric Benn, co-owner of The Bubble Lounge. A non-vintage blend should be drunk within three years, while a vintage bottle can usually be kept for 10 to 15 years. But older isn't always better, he cautions - you'll need to have great faith in your supplier that the bottle has been transported carefully and stored properly over the years. You can tell the age of the sparkling wine by drinking in (smelling) the the following aromas:
Age 15 months to 3 years: White flower, citrus and fresh fruit aromas.
Age 3 to 5 years (Mature): Bold summer flowers or ripe/stewed fruit aromas dominate.
Age five years or more: Bouquets of dried flowers and grilled nuts.
Step 5: Choose your dosage.
Once the bubbly has aged sufficiently, a certain amount of sugar is added, known as the dosage. There are many different dosages of champagne, but you can usually get an idea as to what the dosage is by reading the label. The most common dosages are extra brut, brut and demi-sec. Extra brut or ultra brut champagne contain no added sugar/dosage so they are the best choice for dieters. They are very dry wines.
Brut champagne wines are very dry, but slightly sweeter than extra brut, and they contain a very low amount sugar. They are perfect for most occasions, which is why they are the most popular variety of champagne sold today. Champagne makers save their best grapes for this category.
More sugar is added to demi-sec champagne wines than to brut champagne wines. This gives them a sweet taste. As a result they go swimmingly with desserts.
Step 6: Roll the bubbles around.
If given the opportunity to taste various sparkling wines before your purchase, take the time to observe the bubbles. Tasty champagne generally has small bubbles that quickly make their way to the top of a fluted champagne glass.
Take a sip and roll the bubbles around in your mouth. Take note of how strong the fizz becomes. Enjoy the feel and notice whether the bubbles are fine or coarse. As you taste more champagnes and sparkling wines, you will soon see the difference. Discover which type of bubbles you enjoy more.
Step 7: Make your own decision.
Choosing champagne is the same process as buying jewelry, a new car, clothes, or furniture. You know your own taste and price range best.
If possible, don't leave the choice up to someone else. Pamper yourself a little this New Year's Eve and pick something that excites you and adds to the festive mood. Go for something that you couldn't have afforded in the past but with the current price cuts is just within your reach this year.
By choosing what you like you may end up quoting Dom Perignon, who at the moment of his discovery of champagne exclaimed, "Come quickly, I am tasting stars!"
Elmira Star-Gazette
November 17, 2007
By Jeff Richards
Have you picked out the perfect bottle of wine to accompany your Thanksgiving dinner next week?
No matter what type of wine you like, Finger Lakes wineries can provide a great bottle of wine for that special occasion when friends and family gather to give thanks.
Wine writer Natalie MacLean offers five tips for choosing just the right wine to go with your holiday meal.
She suggests starting with bubbly. More and more area wineries are not only making sparkling wines, they also earning accolades with them. Swedish Hill Winery in Romulus earned the Best Sparkling Wine award at this year's Wine and Food Classic held in the Napa Valley. It is one of four sparkling wines I was able to taste recently that should be a hit.
Natalie's next suggestion is to consider the turkey. She says that most turkey is dry in texture and could use a mouthwatering wine like a crisp Riesling or pinot grigio to complement it.
"I think Riesling is one of the best wines for a holiday meal," say Natalie. "I love Finger Lakes Rieslings. They hold their place with the best Rieslings in the world."
That plays right into one of the strengths of the Finger Lakes. Recently, King Ferry Winery earned a gold medal at the Canberra Riesling Challenge in Australia with its 2006 Treleaven Dry Riesling. The wine scored 55.5 points, finishing only a half point behind the worldwide winner that was produced in Germany. Other Finger Lakes wineries that scored well in the challenge were Heron Hill, Sheldrake Point Vineyard, Wagner Vineyards and Rooster Hill Vineyards. Overall, five of the top eight wines in the U.S. division were from the Finger Lakes.
Natalie also suggests looking beyond the bird. You do not have to match the wine to just the turkey, she says. Dave Peterson, manager at Swedish Hill agrees, saying, "I love those fruity, dry roses with food." Or how about a 2006 Vidal Blanc from Atwater to go with the squash or green beans, suggests Katie Marks, who handles public relations and marketing at Atwater Estate Vineyards in Hector, where her father, Ted, is proprietor.
Natalie goes on to recommend a buttery chardonnay to complement the smoky flavors of chestnuts and pecan stuffing. You get the idea: there are lots of options, red, white and rose.
Natalie's closing suggestion focuses on dessert. "End on a sweet note. If anyone still has room when it is time for pumpkin or pecan pie, offer a late harvest or Riesling ice wine." That is another category in which the Finger Lakes wineries excel. There is even a holiday treat called Cranberry Essence from Cayuga Ridge Estate that ties in beautifully with a Thanksgiving meal.
The bottom line is that Finger Lakes wineries offer a bountiful selection of wines to accompany your meal.
Here's to a joyful Thanksgiving holiday as you share the day with loved ones.
EMC News
October 29, 2006
By Victoria Carnaghan
Natalie MacLean is used to playing many roles in her day-to-day life. The acclaimed wine columnist has published dozens of articles in food and drink publications across North America. She’s also a mother, a wife and an expert at web design.
But in her newly published book, Red, White and Drunk All Over: A Wine Soaked Journey From Grape to Glass, the first time novelist takes on jobs she never would have imagined herself doing.
A result of three years of travelling through the world’s most famed wine regions, Ms. MacLean’s book is written so readers feel they are riding along with her as she visits classic wine regions in France, California and tries her hand at various wine-related jobs.
“I worked undercover as an expert sommelier in a fancy French restaurant for the night, which resulted in many drops of expensive wine spilled on white tablecloths,” she said in a recent interview. “I like to do, not just to research.”
She also worked in a wine shop in New York and helped with the or wine harvest in California.
“I describe what it's like to be out in the middle of the vines, picking grapes under a blistering hot sun. Then back at the winery, I became one with my subject; essentially, a human grape: sticky, purple and completely crushed,” she wrote on her popular web site.
But other than first hand experience, Ms. MacLean also uses live interviews and historic research to support her personal observations: “I tried to find passionate, obsessed people in the wine industry. I think people like to read about other people. I met a strange and marvelous and nutty man (in Bonny Doon Vineyards in California), and told his story.”
And though Ms. MacLean has travelled extensively, (recreationally she said she likes to go to non-vineyard parts of the world too) she said she, her husband Andrew and their son Rian love their current Nepean neighbourhood.
“We love being here,” she said of her home for 10 years. “Especially with my son, I can’t imagine raising him anywhere else.”
Currently, Ms. MacLean is touring the USA and Canada to promote the book, hitting major Canadian cities from the coast to coast, as well as in Atlanta, Miami, and Charlotte.
With an impressive educational background, including an Masters in Business Administration from London’s Western University that she funded herself by giving Highland dancing lessons to her neighbours in her native home town by Halifax, Ms. MacLean has also been recognized by her contemporaries. In 2003, she garnered the Food Media awards World’s Best Drink Writer nod and has won four James Beard foundation Journalism Awards and five awards for excellence in food journalism from the International Association of Culinary Professionals.
Armed with these credentials, the writer said she is happy doing just that: writing regularly for news dailies, wine and food magazines and updating her e-newsletter each week. Recently, she hit 53,000 subscribers, hailing from countries across the globe, and couldn’t be happier.
“I love that connection, the camaraderie,” she said. And writing a book helped to further establish a relationship to fans of her work.
“A book allowed me to do a lot of things, but deeper. I met more passionate people, and established a stronger bond with readers.”
In her book, Ms. MacLean also describes her personal evolution from a newly-graduated student, to accredited sommelier and experienced taster. She said she tried her first good wine in a Toronto restaurant after the waiter recommended she and her future husband, Andrew, try a Brunello. The two assented, thinking they were getting an entrée.
In the introduction of the book, Ms. MacLean writes:
“The pop of the cork seemed to relieve something inside me. The aroma of the wine rushed out to meet me and all the smells I’d ever known rushed away.”
And this descriptive passion is one of the definition characteristics of her work. As a food journalist, Ms. MacLean said the key to reaching readers successfully is to find a way to be “imaginative but concrete. You have to try to describe what’s a very subjective experience. It’s a matter of trying to translate into words an experience that appeals to smell and taste; you’re trying to verbalize that but doing so with magic and allure in your writing.”
Furthermore, she added, a writer always has to love their subject. Ms. MacLean’s personal passion for wine, its hedonism, its connection to history, geography and commerce are the backdrop to her style and expression, she said.
And despite the sometimes complex language and volumes of knowledge that seem to define the world of wine, the author says the best advice she could give to wine amateurs seeking to refine their palate is to try lots of wines. “There’s no substitute for pulling corks,” she says. “And compare them side by side. Serve or order a few ones at once”; and of course, make sure to read books and articles written by those wisened by experience.
Epicurious
February 2008
By Natalie MacLean
These five wines help set the mood. Better yet, they're paired with recipes, so you've got five instant dinners.
Beringer Third Century 2005 Pinot Noir, Central Coast, California
(about $14)
This bottle's name refers to the fact that this winery is now operating in its third century--the company has been around since 1876. The Central Coast is similar to the cool climate of Burgundy, and the fruit shows the same characteristics of just-ripe fruit with an intoxicating undercurrent of earth and spice. (Though if you really like spicy, you might consider a Zinfandel instead.)
Errazuriz Wild Ferment 2005 Pinot Noir, Casablanca Valley, Chile
(about $17)
This wine was fermented with wild native yeasts, which extends the fermentation process and deepens both the color and flavor of the wine. It is full-bodied, with the lush flavors of strawberry, plums, and cedar, and a silky smooth texture. Dishes cooked with wine are easy to match with many vinos, but I chose this dish because the root vegetables echo the wild, sexy earthiness of the wine.
Amity Vineyards 2005 Pinot Noir, Oregon, United States
(about $23)
An elegant, medium-bodied Pinot, this one has enticing aromas of spice and black cherry that marry splendidly with the robust flavors in the pasta "rags" recipe and Beef Bourguigon. The wine is elegant and balanced, with a long finish. Although the dishes are a little more muscular than the wine, they work together much like Fred Astaire and Ginger Rogers. (She definitely needed balance to dance backwards in heels.) You'll dance all night with this wine.
Austins 2006 Pinot Noir, Geelong, Victoria, Australia
(about $25)
As one of Australia's oldest wine regions, Geelong is host to many small, artisanal wineries like Austins. The area's cool climate and oceanside location help produce wines that are balanced but also have rich, ripe fruit flavors. This Pinot, bursting with cherry notes, is closed with a screwcap, which, if nothing else, allows for quick access on Valentine's Day when speed, not finesse, is often a key factor.
Domaine Chandon 2005 Pinot Noir, Carneros/Napa, California
(about $28)
This medium-bodied Pinot has notes of raspberry, cherry, cedar, and a touch of oak. Domaine Chandon is known for its fabulous sparkling wines, so it's not surprising that it does a great job with finicky, cool-climate Pinot (one of the most food-friendly wines on the planet). It may be known as the "heartbreak grape," but that has nothing to do with its impact on relationships; it's an indication of how difficult it is to grow. Like a great relationship, when it works, it's pure magic.
Forbes
June 16, 2008
By Todd Pitock
Normally you'd figure that any PGA Tour player accepting high-fives for scoring in the 90s must have had a sip of something strong. A group of current and former pros, though, have taken winemakers for playing partners and adopted the wine critics' 100-point scale as a new measure of being on par.
The idea is simple enough: Golfers bring the fame, winemakers bring the expertise and together they alchemize the mix into a golden brand. Greg Norman has been at it for nearly two decades. More recently, Arnold Palmer, Mike Weir, Nick Faldo, John Daly, Ernie Els, Retief Goosen and Gary Player have all jumped in, the latter releasing his first bottling this spring.
On the whole, connoisseurs give high marks. Els' and Norman's have received the best scores in the wine press, and other projects like Mike Weir's have had a warm reception as well.
"They liked my image and my ability to reach a certain audience," says Greg Norman about Beringer Blass, now part of the Australian conglomerate Fosters Group. The company approached him in the 1990s. "I liked them because they had financial and marketing wherewithal. They had [an Australian] wine that wasn't selling well in America, and they wanted to completely change the image, change the taste and rebrand it."
The company introduced Norman to two in-house wine experts. They spent months tasting together, fine-tuning wines to Norman's palate.
"Then," Norman recalls, "we had to identify our market. We could go high-end, to the $100 bottle, where there are pretty good margins but low volume, or we could go to lower margins but higher volume."
They chose to stay reasonably priced and have grown since their 1999 debut, recently introducing California appellations, and achieving sales in 2007 approaching 300,000 bottles.
If Norman wasn't originally a wine expert, Ernie Els wasn't even a wine drinker when he got involved in the business. At the time, Els' favorite varietal was, um, beer. But his wife, Liesl, liked wine, and their friend Jean Engelbrecht, whom the couple had known since they were teenagers, happened to be one of South Africa's most respected winemakers.
"They said, 'Why don't we open a winery together?'" says Engelbrecht. Engelbrecht gave Els an education in wine, and the first vintage of Ernie Els Wines was produced in 2000. The winery, located in South Africa's Stellenbosch, sits on a high slope with views of the 72-hectare estate. There are plush sitting areas, a one-room museum showcasing Els' achievements, a barrel room and a tasting bar looking out on the vineyards.
For Els, the winery was the first step in a Norman-like empire, with a golf-course design company, a real estate company, a clothing line and a golf-travel venture, the last one with Engelbrecht as a partner as well.
"Golfers haven't succeeded [in other businesses] unless they were personally involved," Engelbrecht says. "Ernie has done that, and his name has helped the whole South African category get attention from places that were ignoring us before."
Mike Weir has likewise raised the profile of Canadian wine. The Ontario native opened Mike Weir Estate Winery in 2005 on the Niagara Peninsula and quickly started winning medals at Canada's top wine competition, the Cuvée Awards, in 2006 and 2007. His Vidal Icewine, made from grapes harvested after the freeze, follows Ontario's (and British Columbia's) success at producing the sweet wine style pioneered in Germany.
Unlike these other business endeavors, however, Weir's is not a quest for personal riches. Instead, all proceeds go to the Mike Weir Foundation, which benefits Canadian children's charities.
Gary Player had real estate in mind when he started a wine venture. Led by his son, Marc, chief executive of Black Knight International, the company put together a consortium to acquire a well-known South African vineyard, the Boschendal Estate, in 2004. The primary aim was a golf-and-real- estate development, but Marc Player says making wine has become a way to honor his father's career. The winery's Major Championship Series collection will be bottled every year to commemorate Player's 18 Major and Senior Major victories. The first vintage is a 2003 Stellenbosch Bordeaux-style blend released at the Masters in April. They will be available at wine stores and at select Gary Player golf courses.
"We're looking to extend the brand to areas outside of our core business," Marc Player said. "It's not mass-market and it's priced at the high end, so it all fits with our key customers--baby boomers who travel and drink wine. Wine fits well in terms of the grand strategy."
For his South African venture, Retief Goosen linked up with winemaker Morné Jonker on South Africa's Garden Route--250 miles from the Cape area where almost all of the country's wines are now produced, on land that has quickly built a reputation for having the densest concentration of championship-caliber golf in Africa.
Jonker saw an opportunity to make wine in the country's coldest growing region and create European- or Old World-- styled wines.
"We'll never make more than 5,000 cases. So with small volume, we'll focus on high-quality wines that are priced at the higher end," he says.
Last year, The Goose Winery launched its 2005 vintage, a Cabernet Sauvignon- Shiraz blend. The 2003 vintage was introduced to the U.S. market at the 2008 CA (nyse: CA - news - people ) Championship at the Doral Resort & Spa in March.
Retief promotes his wine on the pro circuit. "His branding makes a difference," Jonker says. "He markets with resorts, such as Mission Hills in China. He's an ambassador to Rolex, and we serve at their corporate functions around the world, including Carnoustie last year."
With all this star power, does it matter that many of these wines are actually good? Sure, says sommelier and wine critic Natalie MacLean. "The wines are ultimately brand extensions for these marquee sportsmen, but in the end, they have to deliver on taste, and they do."
"They have a legacy attached to them," adds Mark Russo, a longtime wine writer and golf enthusiast who founded Angel's Share, a food and wine events company in California. "If you're truly a golf aficionado, you probably don't care; it's a nice souvenir, a great keepsake and may actually increase in value with an autograph. But for the true wine geek, it's what ends up in the glass and not what's on the label that counts. It can't be just a pure business deal."
Forbes Magazine (2)
February 20, 2008
By Pascale Le Draoulec
Which restaurant boasts the largest collection of Amarone wines in the world?
Here's a clue: It's not in Italy, or even New York.
It's an old-style Italian joint called Via Allegro Ristorante, in a generic strip mall across from a Home Depot in western Toronto.
Top Restaurants For Canadian Wine-Lovers
Don't let the plebian locale fool you. Its wine list--which, at 5,000 selections, is one of largest in the world--has earned the prestigious Grand Award from Wine Spectator each year since 2003.
Bistro a Champlain, about an hour outside of Montreal on the road to Mont Tremblant, easily boasts the world's largest collection of large-format bottles of Domaine de la Romanee-Conti. We're talking stacks of Methuselahs--six liter bottles--of what many consider to be Burgundy's pinnacle.
If you thought Canada's alcohol consumption was limited to ice wine and Molson Golden, think again.
Wine consumption is on the rise in Canada. In 2005, Canadians drained 396 million bottles, representing an increase of 23% over the 2001-2005 period. By 2010, wine consumption is expected to grow to 465 million bottles a year. Over 10 years, wine consumption will have increased by an average of 4.5% per year.
And though "wine has not yet surpassed beer as the beverage of choice"--as it now has in the United States--"it's only a matter of time," says John Szabo, a wine consultant and master sommelier for the Toronto-based Center for Vine Affairs.
"The interest in wine has skyrocketed in the last few years," he says. "Everyone in Canada is taking a wine class and reading wine blogs."
Behind The Bar
Wine bars are cropping up everywhere, even in remote corners of Newfoundland, where at a spot called Atlantica, you can find a bottle of Fontaine-Gagnard Chassagne-Montrachet Les Vergers 2004 for $143.
What has fueled the excitement over the grape?
In the case of Newfoundland and much of Eastern Canada, a sudden infusion of "ridiculous amounts" of oil money has created a huge demand for luxury goods such as wine, says Szabo.
What's more, Canada has seen its own burgeoning wine industry explode in the last 10 years. Its two wine-producing regions, the Niagara Peninsula in Ontario and the Okanagan Valley in British Columbia, are turning out award-winning pinot noirs and Rieslings.
"Wine appreciation is directly related to the development of a local wine industry," says Natalie MacLean, whose web site is nataliemaclean.com and is author of Red, White and Drunk All Over.
Having hometown celebrities like Wayne Gretzky and Dan Aykroyd get in on the winemaking act has also brought more exposure to Canada's wine regions, and to wine appreciation in general.
"I'm quite proud of Canadian wines,' says MacLean. "But the challenge in talking about them is that a lot of people haven't tried them."
This is because of Canada's relatively small production and archaic laws limiting intra-provincial transport.
"So much of the great wine that's made here stays here, " says MacLean.
Szabo agrees. "To get the good stuff, you really have to go to the source," he says. "It's easier--and cheaper--for me to get a wine from Chile than it is to get one from B.C."
Dishing The List
We asked MacLean, Szabo and other Canadian sommeliers to come up with a list of top restaurants across the country to drink wine--both Canadian and international.
For a taste of the best wine British Columbia has to offer, they picked Sooke Harbour House, which boasts the largest collection of wines from the province, including the largest ice wine selection in the world (300 bottles).
For wines from Ontario producers, Treadwell Farm to Table Cuisine in Port Dalhousie was the clear choice. Sommelier James Treadwell, who owns the restaurant with his father, award-winning chef Stephen Treadwell, has compiled a stellar list showcasing the pride of local producers alongside an intelligent selection of international labels.
To experience the best Nova Scotia has to offer, wine writer and sommelier Craig Pinhey recommends Five Fishermen, which lists Nova Scotia wines by their sub-appellations.
Post Hotel Dining Room, Post Hotel and Spa, Lake Louise, Alberta
Most Breadth And Depth
The wine cellar at this rustic yet posh retreat in the heart of the Canadian Rockies features 30,500 bottles and more than 2,000 selections, ranging from cult California Cabs to outstanding Burgundy verticals. It is the recipient of Wine Spectator magazine's highest honor, the "Grand Award." This is where Chateau Margaux chose to hold its wine summit in 2006.
For more information, visit www.posthotel.com.
Treadwell Farm To Table Cuisine, Old Port Dalhousie, Ontario
Best Selection Of Ontario Producers
Stephen Treadwell prepares the "farm-to-table" cuisine at this highly rated restaurant, and his son James runs the wine program. Though international in scope, the wine list showcases Ontario's finest, including many hard-to-find gems.
For more information, visit www.treadwellcuisine.com.
Jamie Kennedy Wine Bar, Toronto
Most Esoteric Wines By The Glass
Want to taste something new and different? Each item on Jamie Kennedy Wine Bar's menu--from the chilled beet soup to the signature Yukon Gold fries with aioli--has a grape mate in a glass, carefully chosen by Jamie Drummond, the Indiana Jones of sommeliers. He is known for uncovering off-the-beaten-path "conversation wines," like the Peter Franus Mourvèdre "Brandlin Vineyard" Mount Veeder from Napa Valley he was pouring last month.
For more information, visit www.jamiekennedy.ca.
Beckta Dining & Wine, Ottawa
Best For Boutique, Artisanal Wines
Stephen Beckta, a former sommelier at the esteemed Daniel and Eleven Madison Park in Manhattan, returned to his native Ottawa to open this ingredient-driven restaurant, showcasing handcrafted wines from small producers. Beckta is particularly proud to pour rare finds like the Riesling "Picone Vineyard" Charles Baker, VQA Niagara 2006 ($70). "It's Canada's best Riesling," he says, "but impossible to get."
For more information, visit www.beckta.com.
Toqué Montreal
Best Range In French Wines
In Quebec, naturellement, oenophiles lean toward all grapes Gallic. For a broad selection of French wines, head to chef Norman Laprise's top-notch Toqué, where the list travels from the Loire Valley, to the Roussillon and the French Alps, as well as Burgundy and Bordeaux. The list of dessert wines, which includes a $600 bottle of Château d'Yquem, Lur-Saluces, 1993, is particularly impressive.
For more information, visit www.restaurant-toque.com.
Bistro A Champlain, Sainte-Marguerite-Du-Lac-Masson, Québec
Most Decadent French Cellar
Set in an old general store dating to 1864, this restaurant overlooking Lac Masson was the first in Canada to receive The Wine Spectator's Grand Award for its over-the-top cellar, which many have described as a "French-wine-lover's Mecca." Have the colorful owner, Champlain Charest, give you a personal tour through stacks – and stacks -- of Bordeaux grands crus and Methuselahs (six-liter bottles!) of Domaine de la Romanee-Conti. Astonishing.
For more information, visit www.bistroachamplain.com.
Five Fishermen, Halifax
Best Selection Of Nova Scotian Wines
The wines of Nova Scotia marry well with fish, and so they figure prominently on this seafood restaurant's list. Regional pride may also have something to do with it: The list even includes the sub-appellations of each offering. These wineries "represent the best of wine from the Atlantic Provinces and are gaining recognition throughout Canada and across the world" reads the list, by way of introduction.
For more information, visit www.fivefishermen.com.
Via Allegro, Etobicoke, Ontario
Best Italian Wine Selection
The wine list here "makes the average phone book look like a paperback in comparison," says Toronto wine consultant and master sommelier John Szabo. Though they've got everything covered here--from Mouton Rothschild dating to 1893 to 300 Canadian wines--they are known for their breadth and depth in Italian wines, particularly their mighty Tuscans and Amarones.
For more information, visit www.viaallegroristorante.com.
Barberian Steakhouse, Toronto
Best Burgundy Verticals
This classic celebrity haunt where Richard Burton proposed to Elizabeth Taylor--the first time--has amassed a massive collection since opening in the 1950s. You can fit 40,000 bottles in the snazzy new cellar. Most of the 2,000 labels lean toward France (Owner Aaron Barberian is a Burgundy fiend.) You can admire the collection if you dine in the mezzanine cellar--20 feet underground, so remember to bring a sweater!
For more information, visit www.barberians.com.
Forbes Magazine (3)
January 15, 2009
By Eric Arnold
Don't be surprised if it's easier this month to get a reservation at Smith & Wollensky.
The reason: With the economy in decline and expense accounts under increased scrutiny, businesspeople may be skipping the steakhouse--and the overpriced wines that flow there.
That appears to be what's happening at Morton's and Ruth's Chris. In the last year, Morton's stock has dropped 75%. Ruth's Hospitality Group, which owns the Ruth's Chris chain, has followed a nearly identical downward trajectory.
In Depth: Most and Least Pricey U.S. Steakhouse Wine Lists
"There are two major problems facing both of the steakhouse operators," says Chris Armbruster, senior research analyst at Al Frank Asset Management. "First is general weakness in consumer spending due to less levels of disposable income and lower levels of confidence, even at the high end. The second is a decline in business spending on steak dinners. I believe corporations are gravitating to meetings and sales calls over the phone rather than over a $50 steak dinner."
And that $50 is just for one steak--no appetizers, sides or dessert. Now throw in the wine.
Restaurants typically price their wines at roughly triple what they pay the wholesaler, but steakhouses often sell a bottle for as much as four times the wholesale price.
That's exactly the sort of thing that happens at New York's Del Frisco's. There, dinner for two--a double porterhouse, plus two sides--costs about $135, not including appetizers, dessert, tax and tip. Along with that, a bottle of Jordan Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 from California's Alexander Valley costs $150, "which is very high," says David Gordon, the wine director behind the award-winning list at New York's Tribeca Grill, and also an importer at New York-based David Bowler Wine. "That wine costs $40 a bottle, so that's a four-times markup."
Still, even in a down economy, deals are done. If a client wants to meet over meat, go for the steakhouse with a wine list that favors fairness over fleecing and provides enough variety to satisfy several tastes.
Big Markups
To get a better sense of which lists qualify, we recruited, along with Gordon, Tyler Colman, Ph.D., a Wines For The Weekend guest and author of the new book A Year Of Wine; and Natalie MacLean, the wine writer behind the blog Nat Decants and author of the book Red, White & Drunk All Over.
All three were provided wine lists from nine steakhouses, most of them chains with multiple U.S. and even some international locations (the exception being New York's Peter Luger, which only has two locations). The Palm provided a list without prices.
Wherever possible, our panel was provided the steakhouses' "core" lists. A chain might have a core wine list that's 60% identical from location to location, with the balance chosen by the on-site beverage manager, who's familiar with the local clientele's preferences. Some steakhouses provided a list from a particular location, noting that it's a fair representation, in terms of selection and price, of what a diner would find at any of that chain's restaurants. The restaurants' names were removed from each list before they were provided to our panel.
The lists, in general, had two things in common, our experts said. The first is the dominance of big, rich red wines, such as California cabernet sauvignon, with a lack of more subtle or lighter-bodied wines. Second, all three of our experts were quick to note the prices--almost universally over the top. The most egregious, the panel noted, was the list at Del Frisco's. Cakebread cabernet, which wholesales for about $40, costs $175 there.
Best Bets
This list, though, is especially well-chosen, which comes at a price. In fact, our experts found that the most carefully selected lists also tend to be the most expensive. These include the lists at BLT Steak and Smith & Wollensky. Del Frisco's has about 450 California cabernets, ranging in price from $44 to $5,000 (the average is around $400 per bottle); BLT steak offers more than 60 Italian reds ranging from $44 to $987 (average of $233 per bottle); and Smith & Wollensky has a collection of about 80 library wines that range from $113 to over $6,000 (averaging more than $500 per bottle). But all have hundreds of other selections as well, from multiple regions around the world.
Del Frisco's has "the biggest list, the most selections, it has a lot of great wine on it. However, the pricing is the highest of anyone," says Gordon. Looking at three particular Napa cabernets that appear on most of the lists, the prices were all quadruple markups at Del Frisco's, he found. Along with the previously mentioned Jordan ($150), the 2001 Screaming Eagle from Napa is $4,000; at Gordon's Tribeca Grill, it costs lest than half that at $1,800.
Gordon says, "$1,800 is ridiculous, too, but people do come in and buy it."
Gordon, Colman and MacLean were impressed with the list at Smith & Wollensky, not for its depth of style but for its verticals (same wine, several different years available). This gives diners the option of choosing more mature wines. For example, there are eight vintages of Mayacamas cabernet from Napa, ranging from 1988 to 1997 (the cheapest is $228, the most expensive is $480).
Capital Grill earned praise for its mostly fair prices ($38 for a gruner veltliner, for example), as well as for its range of white wines. While the list has typical steakhouse cabernets, there are plenty of other selections as well, such as a dozen sauvignon blancs starting as low as $26. More than half the selection of Bordeaux wines are under $100 (starting at $29); the most expensive, the Château Hosanna 1999, is $230.
But BLT Steak won over all our experts for its range of vintages and regions beyond California and Bordeaux. There's Spanish wine, red Burgundies--even "Zweigelt, an unheralded red grape from Austria," Colman points out.
MacLean called it "the wine list as Bible or telephone directory," and while the prices are high, Gordon noted that they're not in Del Frisco's territory, and that the wide range of styles and varieties available makes up for the high costs. There are nearly 40 reds from France's Burgundy region, including a few vintages of the rare and pricey Domaine de la Romanee-Conti, as well as about 30 Spanish wines from six regions, including a 1976 Lopez de Heredia for about $300.
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Similarly, all three experts noted the list at Fleming's Prime, which orders its wines from lightest to heaviest to give diners a better sense of what they're buying.
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"It emphasizes that they recognize that diversity," says Colman, and none of the other panelists found the Fleming's prices to be beyond the range of what's normally acceptable at steakhouses.
Behind the Leaders
Two other lists that stood out for their high number of selections, if not a broad range of styles, were those at Ruth's Chris and Morton's. But the prices put off our experts. At the latter, a bottle of Dom Perignon, for example, is $326 (it's less than that even at Del Frisco's), and Cakebread cabernet from Napa is $161--most of the other lists have it for $150 or less.
"If the stock market ever recovers, this is the place to dine," says MacLean of Morton's.
Similarly, of the Morton's list, Colman found one wine--the 75 Wine Co., Amber Knolls Vineyard cabernet from California--that retails for $20; it's $80 on the wine list.
But a careful look at the list uncovers some values. For one, MacLean noted the strong by-the-glass selection, and both she and Colman pointed out the high number of selections by the half bottle--which cost half as much, of course. And there could be more values to come.
"Much more wine is being brought in for that $50-and-under price point, which is becoming more popular," says Tylor Field, vice president of wines and spirits for Morton's. He also says Morton's is trying to create more values as the economy sags, in part by negotiating prices on large allotments of a particular wine, then selling it by the glass. "People want to have something great but don't want to make an investment of $100 when they can make an investment of $16 and still have a great experience," he says.
Ask any of the steakhouses' beverage directors about their wine prices, however, and they're quick to say that they don't gouge, it's their competitors that do.
"Well, I don't think ours are [overpriced]," says Marian Jansen op de Haar, director of wine for Flemings, in response to a general question about why steakhouses overcharge for wine.
However, there's a fair argument to be made that it isn't the steakhouses' fault for pricing wines the way they do--it's the consumers'.
"People know these wines and chase after them," says Fred Dexheimer, national beverage director for BLT. High consumer demand for well-known, cult-status Napa wines drives the wholesale prices up, and they get even higher at the steakhouse because "people are willing to pay," he says.
Of other steakhouses,Dexheimer says, "the more you charge, in some cases, the more it sells. There are names out there that get certain guests excited, and they're entertaining clients. A lot of it is impressing your guests and putting the tried-and-true, familiar [wine] on the table."
But as the economy worsens, more steakhouses could make adjustments, as Morton's has with its by-the-glass selection. Gordon thinks other steakhouses will follow suit, and find even more ways to offer value.
"A lot of the steakhouse business is expense-account business, and people's expense accounts are scaled back," he says. "They can't order $300 wine each time [they] go out."
Colman puts it more bluntly: "I don't know how these guys are going to make it in this economy, to be perfectly honest."
Morton's
Highest bottle price (Lafite Rothschild 1999): $949
The verdict:
This wine list won over Colman and MacLean for its by-the-glass selection, as well as a solid list of half bottles. Gordon said it was one of the more fairly priced lists, even if it wasn't anything special. But because only the core list was rated, different Morton's locations should offer many more wines, chosen by the on-site beverage managers.
Smith & Wollensky
Highest bottle price (Screaming Eagle 2001): $6,150
The verdict:
All of our experts gave this list a passing grade for its verticals--certain brands of wines from different years. But the prices are high, and the list is dominated by full-bodied reds such as California cabernet. "I thought this one was solid," said Colman; MacLean liked the offerings of mature wines rather than just recent releases.
Ruth's Chris
Highest bottle price (Harlan Estate 1997): $2,529
The verdict:
MacLean says this list wins for its depth of California wines, but all three experts agree it was one of the more overpriced lists. It's standard for a steakhouse, though, so if you want the trademark California cabernets, chances are, Ruth's Chris has most, if not all, of them.
Del Frisco's
Highest bottle price (Mouton Rothschild 1945 and Chateau Petrus 1961 magnums): $19,500
The verdict:
This list was the most impressive to our experts for its selection, but also for its price--over the top. In some cases, wines were marked up to quadruple their wholesale costs. "I appreciate the fact that they sourced wines from other places and had mature wines, such as Bordeaux and Burgundies," says Colman, but it appeals mainly to a very affluent customer. "If you want to spend $3,000 on a bottle, step right up," says MacLean.
Fleming's Prime
Highest bottle price (Dom Perginon 1999): $285
The verdict:
Although this list didn't win anyone over for a deep selection, all three experts liked its 100 wines by the glass, as well as its listing of wines from lightest to heaviest. There are also some wines that didn't appear on every other list. They're "not the most common items, so it's slightly different, which is in its favor," says Gordon.
BLT Steak
Highest bottle price (Richebourg, Domaine de la Romanee-Conti 2001): $1,495
The verdict:
While this list was among the pricier, it wasn't the most outrageous, and it had the best range of varieties and styles, according to our experts. "The pricing is high, but it has the most interesting wines," says Gordon, while MacLean lauded its breadth and depth. It's not just California cabernet and Bordeaux, but solid offerings from Italy, the Pacific Northwest, Burgundy and Spain, to name a few.
Capital Grill
Highest bottle price (Roederer Cristal Rose 1996): $446
The verdict:
This restaurant provided a core list; the individual beverage managers seem to have the most freedom to add their own selections out of any of the chains. This main list also impressed our experts as one of the strongest on price and selection, despite its relatively short length. "It wasn't as lengthy, but a pretty good mix of styles and places," says Colman, while MacLean appreciates that "white wines get some respect here, thank you."
Peter Luger
Highest bottle price (Lafite Rothschild 2001): $1,200
The verdict:
We slipped in this list more or less for fun, since the Brooklyn steak standard is known for its food, not its wine. All three experts thought the one-page wine list was pedestrian at best, and the pricing high, but not completely unfair. "It's the basic stuff," Gordon says of the list.
Fort Wayne Journal Gazette
July 28, 2007
By Dan and Krista Stockman
If you want more offbeat pairings, check out the matches by Natalie MacLean at www.nataliemaclean.com/matcher. She matches wines with everything from Jell-O to TV dinners.
Fox Business News
April 29, 2008
By Beth Blair
Fox Business News published the same story as the WNBC New York.
Free Running with Kevin Ecock
April 6, 2009
By Kevin Ecock
I like to pair wine with foods. I also like simplicity. There are dozens of food types and styles that will go with most wines. I am however not a food critic. It would be very unfair of me to give my thoughts on someones hard work and creativity in the kitchen unless I am entitled to do so!
The web (blogs especially), magazines and, I must admit, even the daily broadsheets, have endless examples of self made critics. There is nothing wrong with having a view and expressing it. There is a subtle difference between that and being a critic!
Obviously we all have to start somewhere and it would be patently stupid to suggest we wait until someone has grey hair or a string of degrees or something before we can accept them into the critics inners circle! So, what to do?
Maybe we need to start reviewing the critics? Don't accept what they say unless that can at the very least support their views with some form of credibility. For instance if I attend the Chilean wine fair and then compare a restaurants house wines (from Chile) against the 150 or so I had just tasted you would have to say it's a valid critique. If on the other hand I take a copy of the wine list home with me, look up the web and figure out a bit about the wine and then tack that onto the end of my restaurant review.....well you can see what I mean!
Don't just accept reviews.l Question them. Don't believe reviewers without questioning their credentials.
Sometimes simplicity works. Viognier and roast chicken anyone? or would you prefer an obligingly comprehensive suggestion from the brilliant Natalie Maclean on NatDecants?
Pair Viognier with mild curries, grilled fish, scallops, shrimp glazed ham, grilled chicken, oily nuts such as macadamias and cashews, Emmental cheese, chicken in a ginger or orange sauce, turkey tetrazzini, chicken korma or tika, fried food, sashimi, sushi, lamb tagine with raisins, almonds and honey, butternut squash risotto, pork chops, smoked ham, tarragon, lobster thermidore, carrot soup and roast vegetables. Chicken and Poultry: Honey-Roast Poultry,Turkey With Traditional Trimmings. Ethnic Dishes: Chicken Korma, Chicken Tika, Coconut Curry (Mild), Creamy Curries, Curries: Spicy. Deep Fried Food: Hummus, Indian Dishes, Lightly Spiced Curries • Sashimi • Spicy Food • Spring Rolls • Sushi • Thai Coconut Shrimp • Thai DishesLamb • Lamb Tagine With Raisins, Almonds & HoneyPasta • Butternut Squash Risotto • Lemon-Mint RisottoPizza • Pizza, PestoPork • Ham And Melon • Pork Chops & Maple Glaze • Pork Chops, Grilled • Smoked HamSauces, Spices, Herbs • Anise, Fennel • Butter Sauce, Beurre Blanc • Caraway • Dill • Seafood Sauce, Cream-Based • TarragonSeafood & Shellfish • Clam Chowder Cream Base • Coquilles ST. Jacques • Grilled Salmon • Halibut With Orange & Salsa Verde • Lobster • Lobster Thermidore • Poached Salmon • Shrimp Cocktail • Smoked FishSoups & Stews • Chicken Soup • French Onion SoupTurkey Holiday Dinner • Turducken • Turkey With Traditional TrimmingsVegetables & Salads • Baked Squash • Carrot Soup • Field Greens Salad • Marshmallow Sweet-Potatoes • Pumpkin Dishes • Roast Vegetables • Smoked Mushrooms • Spiced ParsnipsAppetizers • Oily Nuts (Macadamia, Cashews)Cheese • Emmental Grand CruChicken/Poultry • Chicken In A Ginger, Orange Sauce • Chicken/Turkey Tetrazzini, Cream Casserole • Chicken With Pancetta & Herbs
Natalie MacLean is brilliant and I love her site. Believe it or not she sounds (never met her, heard her on the radio) as though she can deliver impartial advice in a simple and easy to understand manner. I will continue to question her. I don't expect she would have it otherwise. Maybe that's the secret to being a valid critic?
Gaper's Block
March 10, 2009
By Gemma Petrie
Natalie MacLean, a four-time James Beard Journalism Award winner, recently unveiled a new food and wine pairing tool on her website, Nat Decants.
While primarily for wine-lovers, the tool also pairs beer, liquor and coffee. The vast number of foods and beverages in the database make this a useful tool to bookmark for the next time you are planning a special meal or opening a prized bottle.
Globe & Mail
March 29, 2010
By Brodie Beta
Nat Decants: Comprehensive wine guide for iPhone, iPod Touch, BlackBerry, Droid, Nexus, Nokia, Palm Pre and other smartphones
www.nataliemaclean.com/mobileapp
Wine lovers know there’s nothing like the right pairing to complement a good meal, but not everyone knows whether the Chianti or the Merlot goes best with what’s for dinner. That's where mobile devices come to the rescue. With quick access to a large resource of wine recommendations in seconds, even a vino novice can uncork the right vintage. Mobile wine apps promise to help you with picking a bottle for dinner, gift or special occasion.
Nat Decants recommends pairings around the wine you already have on hand or the dish you’re already serving.
The app lists a huge variety of dishes, flavours and spices in each food category and when you’ve found the perfect match, you can record the info in a virtual wine cellar. You have access to thousands of free reviews dating back to 2001.
Nat Decants also has a great feature in its Wineries search, which helps you find vineyards across the country.
Nat Decant's list of features and options -- backed by a professional wine expert -- makes it the clear winner. It's a great app and a must for anyone into wine.
Excerpted from a Globe & Mail review of wine apps.
Globe & Mail
November 18, 2006
By Tralee Pearce
Leave it to Ottawa wine writer Natalie MacLean to advocate vino elbowing out liquor.
On a book tour stop in Toronto recently, she asked superstar chef Jamie Kennedy, who is a resident of the budding wine region of Prince Edward County, to whip up a couple of wine-based cocktails to celebrate the launch of her new memoir, Red, White and Drunk All Over: A Wine-Soaked Journey from Grape to Glass.
MacLean, who publishes an online newsletter called Nat Decants, collected stories for the book about vineyards from Burgundy to California. She worked as a sommelier in the haute-est of restaurants, and dove into the arcane world of wine ranking à la Robert Parker.
The first of Kennedy's creations, made with sparkling wine, is effervescent and a lovely way to start the evening. The second, made with frozen gewurztraminer and gamay, is a little heavier, but will ease you into dinner.
"I think of these cocktails as I would a meal that doesn't involve the whole spice rack," MacLean says. "Elegant and delicious. That's why I believe that both of these better complement many dishes than other cocktails. They're not too sweet and with a wine base they're able to pick up the flavours in a meal without overwhelming them."
Okay, so maybe she's biased, but we're happy to follow her lead. And who knows, maybe this budding trend will show up in a future tome.
"What gets me going is the story of wine, the people, the possibilities, the way it engages us," MacLean says. "There's a reason there are no orange-juice critics."
Sparkling Raspberry and Pear Float
Ingredients
• 1 oz. sorbet from pear purée and Poire Williams
• 3 oz. sparkling wine
• 1 oz. raspberry cordial made from raspberry purée, vodka and sugar syrup
Method
• Churn sorbet mix in an ice cream freezer
• Pour one ounce of raspberry cordial into the bottom of a champagne coupe
• Place one quenelle of sorbet on the cordial
• Place coupe in front of guest and pour 3 oz. of sparkling wine in the glass
• Serve with a straw and a spoon
Rosé Frappe
Ingredients
• 3 oz. gewürztraminer wine and 1 tsp. sugar
• 3 oz. gamay wine and 1 tsp. sugar
Method
• Mix gewürztraminer with the sugar and freeze in a bowl in the freezer,
stirring from time to time
• Mix gamay with the sugar and freeze in a bowl in the freezer, stirring from
time to time
• Blend each bowl separately in a bar blender to make slush
• Pour simultaneously into a martini glass and swirl with a spoon
• Serve with a straw
Globe & Mail (2)
December 19, 2007
Executive Class
By Sandy Farran
Natalie MacLean is an accredited sommelier, wine journalist and author of Red, White, and Drunk All Over: A Wine-Soaked Journey from Grape to Glass.
I understand you travelled extensively to research your book.
Yes, I spent three years sipping and spitting my way through various vineyards around Europe and around North America - Burgundy, Champagne and California, among others.
How do you research your stories?
You can only say so much about wine by just opening the bottle: it's wet, it's fruity, it tastes good or it doesn't. The story of wine is the story about the place, where it's grown. Wine holds such a fascination for so many people because it's so varied. To get the full story and the full colour, you need to go where they are growing it to feel the dirt where those vines are planted, to talk to the winemakers in their own milieu, rather than meeting them in a restaurant somewhere.
Do you sample the wine on airplanes or at airports?
Oh yes, I'm always researching. I'm very thorough with my subject! Many people want to fly business class because there is more legroom. I want to fly business class because the wines are a lot better. I think more and more airlines are using food and drink as a way to differentiate themselves. They can't control the weather or understaffing -- oh, I guess they could control the understaffing, but that's a lot more expensive than offering premium bottles of wine.
So which airlines are serving noteworthy wines?
I like it when airlines specialize in wines from their home country: Air Canada and Air France both do that. And it's a really great sampling program for the wineries to get themselves listed with the in-flight wine program just as it is prestigious to be on a restaurant wine list. It's a way of exposing your wine to affluent, educated customers.
Just like a restaurant does.
Yes, it's like a restaurant, except for the itsy-bitsy glasses, which change the whole experience. I used to think that the right glass was all marketing bunk until I took one of those taste tests and found the glass really does make a difference to the smell and taste. A big glass allows you to swirl your wine without getting it on your shirt, and it also concentrates the aromas. Airlines, of course, are limited to those little glasses because of storage and breakage and so on.
I tend not to drink while flying because a small amount can affect me and it seems to increase the effects of jet lag. What's your advice for drinking and flying?
Well, flying is already dehydrating, so people tend to drink more water. And alcohol is dehydrating, so you're compounding the effect of a dry cabin with alcohol. I still won't give up on a glass of wine onboard because it can really help with flight delays and so on, so I just drink a lot more water.
And it can also help with the misery of flying.
Absolutely. A little bit of wine goes a long way to combat today's travel experience. Your palate dries out at 30,000 feet and you become less sensitive to the fruit aromas in the wine. So a lot of airlines try to serve very fruity, robust wines, which I think is a good move. You don't want to analyze some complex, subtle Bordeaux in-flight; you just need a robust wine to make flying more palatable.
Globe & Mail 3
June 21, 2008
By Natalie MacLean
The Billionaire’s Vinegar: The Mystery of the World’s Most Expensive Bottle of Wine
By Benjamin Wallace
Crown Publishers, 304 pages, $27.95
An old bottle of wine is rare, but a ripping good mystery about one is rarer still. The tale of The Billionaire’s Vinegar begins on December 5, 1985, in the tony West Room of Christie’s London auction house. Lot 337, a hand-blown, dark-brown bottle of 1787 Château Lafite, is held aloft for all the bidders to admire. The reason: not only is this the oldest bottle of wine ever to come up for auction, but the glass is also etched with the letters “Th. J.”—supposedly the initials of Thomas Jefferson, America’s founding father and the purported former owner of this prize bottle.
Among the bidders are two men particularly determined to take home this piece of liquid history: Marvin Shaken, publisher of Wine Spectator magazine, and Kip Forbes, son of publishing billionaire Malcolm Forbes. After a white-knuckled volley, lasting just one minute and 39 seconds, between the two paddle-wielding contestants, auctioneer Michael Broadbent brings down the gavel. Forbes triumphs with a bid of $156,450, the highest amount ever paid for a single bottle.
But whose victory is it?
That’s what author Benjamin Wallace wants us to discover in his first book. The former executive editor of Philadelphia magazine, Wallace has a great story to tell—a mystery worthy of Grisham or Clancy—and he builds the tension clue by clue.
That particular bottle was part of a cache supposedly found in 1985 by a German pop-music-promoter-turned-wine-buyer named Hardy Rodenstock. He claimed that he discovered them in a walled-up Paris cellar, though he was secretive about the original owner and other details. The sale made headlines around the world, driving skyward the prices of other fine wines as the public was fascinated by the numbers: a glass of wine costing thousands of dollars, sips for hundreds.
Of all the compelling portraits in this book, the most intriguing is of the elusive Rodenstock. As Wallace describes him, his “stolid moon of a face [was] barely interrupted by small, opaque eyes and the faintest suggestion of a mouth. What you remembered about him, were not the stippled-in details, but the big-brush outlines … when he shook your hand, he would click his heels.”
After the Jefferson sale, Rodenstock continued to miraculously discover many more rare wines in hidden cellars from Russia to Venezuela. Rodenstock and his friends host lavish competitive tastings that often turned into gluttonous marathons. One such event featured two hundred vintages of Lafite-Rothschild and another was a week-long tasting of the coveted dessert wine Château d’Yquem.
Possibly the most over-the-top of these patrician pleasures was a reenactment of a 1867 dinner attended by Czar Alexander II of Russia, his son and heir Alexander III and the future first emperor of Germany, Wilhelm I. The eighty guests were served only wines that would have been consumed at the original feast. Fittingly, Rodenstock called this event The Three Emperors Dinner—bringing to mind the fable of the Emperor’s New Clothes.
At least one man began to suspect that buyers of Rodenstock’s wines were dressed in nothing but their illusions: American billionaire, Bill Koch. He decides to authenticate four more of those Jefferson bottles he’d bought in 1988 for $500,000. His suspicions are aroused by the lack of historical documentation. Thomas Jefferson was an obsessive record-keeper: he kept copies of all his 16,000-odd letters and of even his most minor expenses, such as the payments for oats for his horse when he was in Paris. But none of his many ledgers makes any references to the purchase of these expensive bottles.
A litigious fellow, Koch hired a former FBI agent to investigate Rodenstock, spending more than a million dollars of his own money. After exhaustive testing, he concluded that the bottles were in fact fakes, and in July 2006, he sued Rodenstock for fraud. That’s where Wallace’s telling of the tale ends, as his book went to press. Since then, though, a U.S. judge ruled that the New York court lacked jurisdiction over Rodenstock, so Koch is pursuing his quarry in European courts.
Wallace’s narrative leads us into a world of heiresses, celebrities, rogues, bankers, tomb raiders, dilettantes, villains, Arab potentates, American millionaires, and as the tale darkens, forensic scientists, glass and handwriting experts, Jefferson scholars, FBI agents and federal court judges. The tale of Rodenstock allows us to indulge our fascination with con artists, with their galling hustle to get what they want and their inventive intelligence to elude capture. No wonder actor-producer Will Smith is making a movie based on the book.
Wallace is brilliant at sketching characters with delicious details. There’s Christie’s auctioneer Michael Broadbent, for instance, who at 58 was still “pedalling to work each day on his Dutch ladies bicycle with a basket, legs gunning furiously, a trilby hat perched on his head.” He shows his “boyish sense of marvel at the longevity of wine” and describes it variously as having aromas of crystallized violets, clean bandages, dunked gingernuts and schoolgirl uniforms. Other vivid personalities are wine collectors, such as Marvin Overton III, “a Texas neurosurgeon who sometimes wore a bolo tie with a fur coat” and the shadowy Lloyd Flatt, “an eyepatch-wearing Tennessean” believed to be an international arms dealer.
As Wallace follows the story, he parallels America’s hard-won connoisseurship over the last 20 years with Jefferson’s own journey from touring the vineyards of France to attempting to make his own wine back in Virginia, observing that his 1787 trip to France made him the greatest wine connoisseur writing in any language. In America, wine moved from a little-understood but pleasurable beverage to drinkable art and investment vehicle.
Wallace also explores the subjectivity of wine and the suggestibility of human nature. Even experienced drinkers are strongly influenced by the pronouncements of experts, such as the American critic Robert Parker. He also observes the perceived relation of price to quality. Since the book was published, a telling experiment underscores his point: in a blind taste test of two glasses of the same wine, participants preferred the one that they were told was more expensive.
For those who can’t stomach another wine guide, The Billionaire’s Vinegar makes learning about wine more palatable. The book touches on the history of wine auctions and how they work, on how wine is priced and how it gains rarity, on the importance of vintages and crop yields, on bottle sizes, wine tasting, glassware, wine and food matching, wine criticism, and collecting and cellaring wine. Not all wine books are destined to languish on the coffee table, sampled only occasionally to confirm a fact: some are meant to be gulped down from cover to cover.
One of his most poetically instructive passages is his description of how wine ages and transforms into a more life-altering experience than say orange juice. When oxygen interacts with young wine, all the components soften and knit together, especially the astringent tannins, which “drift down into a carpet of sediment, taking with them the saturated, inky pigments.” What’s left is a “mellowed, unfathomably subtle flavor.” He points out the paradox of wine: time makes it great and time destroys it. But the very unpredictability of aging wine makes it thrilling.
Wallace also delves deeper into what makes wine authentic. He notes that Dutch merchants dosed claret with brandy to help it survive long sea journeys to distant markets. Famous châteaux have historically “reconditioned” old bottles to prevent them from oxidizing: topping them up with wine of the same or younger vintage. The spectrum of wines considered authentic is almost as varied as the shades of fakery: labelling inferior vintages with superior ones, blending vintages, topping up vinegarized wine bought cheaply at auction, replacing the wine with another wine or even with another liquid, such as colour-dyed water.
Until recently, with the advent of fraud-prevention technologies, wine was one of the easiest products to fake. The reasons are partly physical: One bottle looks much like another, labels are easy to reproduce with desktop publishing and the product can’t be tested without consuming it. Partly they’re psychological: if a pricy bottle tasted like vinegar (hence Wallace’s title), often the rich-but-unsophisticated buyer isn’t confident enough to know that this isn’t how the wine should taste. Partly they’re time-related: Buyers often don’t open their bottles until years later, by which time the fraudster is long gone.
In the Rodenstock case, all of these factors came together to create the perfect storm. Châteaux owners didn’t want to admit that their bottles could be faked, critics didn’t want to confess to being fooled, auction houses didn’t want the $70 million market to collapse and buyers didn’t want to know that their cellars were full of fakes.
In chronicling these events, Wallace brings a reporter’s discipline to both the depth of his research and to his even-handed treatment of his findings. This is both the book’s strength and its flaw. He might have done more than just confirm court briefs, quote published articles and reference interviews with the key players. He might, for instance, have included more in-depth personal interviews with these characters. More importantly, he could have given us a much stronger personal opinion of the events and facts. Instead, he is dutifully journalistic to the end.
What The Billionaire’s Vinegar is really about, though, more than wine, is desire: the desire of con artists to get what they can and the desire of the victims to believe what they wish. Desire runs through this book like wine sediment: shifting, murky and tinged with bitterness.
Globe & Mail 4
July 16, 2008
By Liz Walker
"It was a warm, breezy July evening and we were with good friends whom we've known for 15 years. It was an informal get-together and I love those because we can bring wine.
"We started with gourmet potato chips while the grill was heating up, and we opened a bottle of bubbly from Spain. I loved the shabby-chic combination, and with the salt and fat of the chips it was amazingly good.
"They did cedar-planked grilled salmon. I was able to be a wine renegade and match it with a red wine. Salmon, when it's grilled, takes on those beautiful smoky, woody, grilled flavours. ... I chose a Canadian pinot noir. It's a silky, light red wine that doesn't have a lot of those mouth-drying tannins. Pinot noir is fantastic with grilled salmon. It's one of the ultimate combinations.
"With a barbecue, those who don't like to spend a lot of time cooking, can shine. ... They like to get the flavour without the fuss when it comes to dinner."
Globe and Mail 5
April 22, 2009
By Dave Michaels
Pursuing wealth has its obvious rewards, but making money is much easier when you're doing something you love. Starting a business requires plenty of time and energy, and as such it should be something that is worth trading your life to undertake.
Follow your passion, experts say, and you'll succeed.
This aphorism certainly applies to Natalie MacLean, many times over.
The accredited sommelier, wine journalist and author of Red, White, and Drunk All Over got her business start early — she opened a dance school in her Nova Scotia basement when she was 15. She photocopied handmade notices and took them to the principals of the local elementary schools to pass them out in classes. Eventually she had 300 students and five teachers working for her, and she was able to put herself through university without going into debt.
She studied English literature at Oxford University, and earned an honours bachelor at Mount Saint Vincent University in Halifax and an MBA at the University of Western Ontario.
She didn't start drinking wine until she and her husband took a wine course together at George Brown College in Toronto. She later completed a sommelier certificate while working for the computer company Silicon Graphics.
She began writing in 1998 with a column about wine for a local magazine. She eventually would write for more than 60 publications, including Bon Appetit and Food & Wine.
Today the Ottawa-based writer publishes Canada's largest wine e-newsletter, with more than 100,000 subscribers, at www.NatalieMacLean.com.
Ms. MacLean joined us earlier to talk about turning your passion into a money-making enterprise.
Dave Michaels, globeandmail.com: Hello Natalie! So glad you could join us today. I'll toss the first question: As a wine writer, who do you define as your core audience? The weekend shopper looking for the value-priced (under $15) cabernet, or the aficionado seeking the super Tuscans or more rarefied Vintage selects?
Natalie MacLean: Hi Dave. Like other businesses, wine writers must choose a segment within their industry. I focus on wines between $10 and $25 (many are under $15, though, for value shoppers, especially in this economy). I also match them all with food and recipes so that my customers have an idea for a complete dinner that's affordable.
While I do review the super Tuscans, cult California cabernets, coveted Bordeaux blends and so on, these have a very small market in terms of who can afford them. They're easy to find in the database of 50,000 wine reviews I've posted on my site because you can search by price, vintages, drinking maturity, region, wine name, score and so on. However, the vast majority of my wines are in the $10-$25 range, as that is the range that most consumers want. (And I'm in that price bracket myself!)
Richard Miller from Toronto writes: Natalie, I have followed your newsletter since 2003 and continue to think it is fantastic. Thank you for sharing your passion! My question is about being a wine agent. I understand generally what agents do, but could you explain the business model? How do they get paid, what are the margins like, how many wines/wineries do you reasonably need to represent to have a viable business, etc.? What are some of the pros and cons of entering that field?
Natalie MacLean: I'm delighted that you enjoy the newsletter, Richard! The business model varies by agent in terms of the number of brands represented and the regional or price point focus. There are several hundred agents in Canada, ranging from those who represent a few brands on the side (in addition to their day job) to those who make a full-time business of it and employ a large staff, such as Lifford Wine Agency, Churchill Cellars, Charton-Hobbs and others. It's worth visiting their websites to see their portfolios.
For the best overview of an agent's role, commissions and other variables, I recommend that you take Steven Trenholm's course "Importing for Profit and Pleasure." He's based in Toronto, and hundreds of people have taken his course, either to import wines for their own consumption or to make a full-time career of it. E-mail me via my website (www.nataliemaclean.com) and I'll put you in touch with Steven.
Dave Michaels, globeandmail.com: Natalie, what, if anything, can other businesses learn from the new ways of marketing wine? Is there a larger lesson in the critter phenomenon?
Natalie MacLean: Over the last five years, wine marketing swung from chateau-on-a-mountain elitism to critter-cute accessibility. Neither serves wine drinkers well, as one makes wine inaccessible, the other dumbs it down. Savvy wine producers are hitting the middle stride with contextual marketing: helping consumers find a place for well-made wine in their everyday lives. This means enjoying a glass or two of wine with dinner at home during the week, not just on special occasions or when dining out on the weekend. It also means that there can be a thrilling, multi-layered pleasure to wine that can be enjoyed without a sommelier certificate and without having to declare all wine as equally well-made in the name of misguided wine democracy.
Kevin Goodlad from Kingston, N.S., writes: Hello from N.S., Natalie... Any suggestions about how to get past the gatekeepers in any target organization?
Natalie MacLean: How about a good bottle of wine? :) Can you give me an example please?
Dave Michaels, globeandmail.com: Natalie, everybody loves the idea of supporting small, local businesses, but can smaller wineries really compete with the Constellations of this world?
Natalie MacLean: Small wineries can compete particularly well against conlgomerations when they focus on their market niche: local customers. Local can mean more than just those within driving distance of the winery; it can also include those on a mailing list or those with whom the small winery has developed a personal relationship. Social media tools, such as Twitter and Facebook, are helping small wineries extend their reach and devlop these personal relationships with a wider audience.
Kristi Hanratty from Fort Collins, Colo., writes: Hi! I would love to work in wine marketing, but have only taken classes (wine appreciation, WSET Intermediate, Colorado State University horticulture classes, etc.). Do I need to get a masters of marketing in wine, or are there other ways to work in the industry without further schooling?
Natalie MacLean: I'm a big advocate of education and training to be better equipped to enter your field. I don't think it's a requisite but it will definitely help, especially if you don't have any industry experience yet. If you like, I'll put you in touch with a few wine marketers in the field and you can ask their opinion. Contact me via my website please.
Mindy Hahn from Winnetka, Ill., writes: What are the best careers that marry a love of wine and all things culinary with travel?
Natalie MacLean: Wine, food and travel writing are all excellent avenues. You could also join a travel agency or become an independent tour operator focusing on one or two regions and helping your customers explore cooking schools, wineries, restaurants, etc. Another option is to work in a winery, even for a year, and make it your home base while you travel on weekends around the region.
Lawrence Crofton from Canada writes: Hi Natalie. We're planning to start a tour business (Yeah right! Great timing! :) ) In your experience, outside of the paid advertisement model, what did you find was the best way of creating market awareness?
Natalie MacLean: Your best bet is to establish links with high-traffic wine, food and travel sites, Lawrence. (I'll link to you :) ) Also, if you can become a regional wine expert, that would help. Offer your expertise to journalists writing about Niagara or B.C., for example. Perhaps you're not an expert, but you know how to make the most of your visit to wine country with 10 tips for travellers.
Erin Rosar from Calgary writes: Hi Natalie. As a fellow woman sommelier I am interested to know your thoughts: Do you feel that as women we are perceived as less intimidating then men in the wine industry? And if so, with more women joining our industry are we helping to create a new and more open and relaxed arena for people to learn about wine in? Do you see this as a new side to the wine industry?
Natalie MacLean: It's a stereotype, but yes, women are perceived as less intimidating than men in the wine industry. (I know some real tigers who prove that wrong.) However, I think that women can use this to their advantage, whether it's setting customers at ease in restaurants and wine stores, or in using a more conversational voice to write about wine. I resist the Chardonnay-as-little-black-dress metaphors, but I do imagine a woman when I write: she's my best friend and we're sitting at the kitchen table enjoying a good glass of wine. It keeps it real rather than climbing into the ivory tower of which wine got 98 points out of 100.
According to three recent industry studies, women buy 70 per cent to 80 per cent of wine and drink 60 per cent of it. That's reasonable, since as purchasers of most household items from Shreddies to SUVs, women control most wine buying. Women are also responsible for most social planning, from family meals and dinner parties to larger gatherings and celebrations. That's why most consumer magazines, and certainly all of the largest, are aimed at women. Gourmet and Bon Appetit each have more than 1 million subscribers; Wine Spectator has about 350,000.
Chris Del Plato from Long Valley, N.J., writes: I would like to hear Natalie's thoughts, experience and difficulties encountered relative to forging a new career/business centred on her passion while maintaining another job/career (and still paying the bills).
Natalie MacLean: It's a good idea to transition slowly career-wise until you can jump from one moving train to another, rather than be left standing in the station with a stack of unpaid bills. I was fortunate in that I was on maternity leave from my high-tech marketing position. So I started slowly pitching ideas to different publications and then decided to make a full-time go of it at the end of my leave. But even if you're not pregnant, you can still make that gradual transition: Start with one small piece of the pie. In my case, it would have been writing a story for a community newspaper on the weekend and then building out from there. At a certain point, just before you jump, it can be a very difficult time - stressful, yet so worth it!
Ralf Joneikies from Vancouver writes: Hello Natalie. Have you found any particular obstacles to becoming a wine writer? My own experience has been that this is a particularly closed world, and magazines and newspapers generally don't care to look at finished articles. What route would you recommend?
Natalie MacLean: When I started, I was told that I would never earn a living as a wine writer, and that I should keep it as a weekend hobby (sweetheart). Well, that fired my burner! It took time, dogged persistence and an unshakable faith that I was doing the right thing, but eventually I broke in. Start with your community newspaper, take courses and build from there. Don't give up!
Tom Johnson from Louisville, Ky., writes: Is the wine publishing industry specialized? That is, are there a defined group of author's agents that specialize in wine books?
Natalie MacLean: Some literary agents don't represent more than one wine writer at a time as they believe that it creates a conflict of interest. Whom do they promote? Others believe that there are economies of scale and learning by specializing in one or two industries and knowing them well. Often they'll do both food and wine. So it depends on the agency.
Tara Fraser from Montreal writes: Hello Ms. MacLean! I visit your website quite frequently and think it is fantastic! I especially love that you have gone 3.0 with your wine and food pairing widget. How much have these sorts of initiatives helped with the viral marketing of your website and newsletter?
Natalie MacLean: Thanks Tara! The Drinks Matcher widget (www.nataliemaclean.com/matcher) has been an amazing 3.0 viral tool! To date, 3,256 people have posted it on their websites, blogs and social media pages like FaceBook, MySpace and iGoogle. (It takes just takes 3 clicks.) It's all about sharing your content rather than keeping it just on your own website. A number of these folks have e-mailed to say that their site traffic has increased because people are coming back to their site for more pairing suggestions, from Champagne and sushi, to Oreos and port.
I also use other 2.0 and 3.0 tools such as interactive recipes, a blog, wine glossary, podcasts, links, events, articles, daily Twitter updates (http://twitter.com/NatalieMacLean), RSS feeds, Facebook, MySpace, Blogger, iGoogle: it all helps to build a community. Wine is about conversation, and wine online is no different. I love having a nanosecond connection with others who are passionate about wine, like you Tara. :)
Richard Miller from Toronto writes: Thanks for that! If I may ask another few questions: How well do you think Australian wine will be able to withstand the onslaught of value wines from South Africa or South America (e.g., I think Fuzion has now kicked Yellowtail off its perch)? What do you think of Torrontes (the grape)? When's your next book due (any sneak peeks available?)
Natalie MacLean: Australia has some tough competition ahead of it from the two countries that you mention. I'm visiting Argentina next month to see what's up with their lip-smacking delicious Malbecs and their aromatic answer to Chardonnay, Torrontes (love it). These wines have incredible depth of flavour at terrific prices. South Africa excels at both Sauvignon Blanc and Shiraz. The number of wines that I recommend for less than $15 from these two countries is pretty high now. It'll be interesting to see where it all shakes out.
I'm working on my next book now; hope to publish next year if I stay on schedule. (So many wines to try; the research never ends!) Richard, your free bottle of wine is in the mail for that unsolicited plug :)
Michelle Herrington from Canada writes: Hi Natalie, is there any advice you can give to young people starting out on how to find out what our passions are and how to turn them into successful businesses? I like to think that it would be wise to try various things and then when I find my passion, look for a niche in the market and go from there.
Natalie MacLean: You've got the right idea Michelle! Try lots of things, join clubs, read books, take adventure/experiential type vacations. Think about what you like to do for fun: Could you earn a living from it if you got the right credentials, set up the right business strategy? I call dining out our family sport: we're not big into camping, etc (It's so hard to balance a nice crystal decanter on a campsite log.) So that old adage about following your bliss, and the money will follow ... it works.
Karen Sandford from Canada writes: Hi Natalie. I love your newsletter and have been following it for several years now. I'm going to be moving back to Canada from the U.S. and want a career change to the wine business. I have a passion for wine and have taught myself everything that I know. How do you suggest I start my career change? (Most of my experience is in high tech sales.)
Natalie MacLean: Thanks Karen, delighted that you like the newsletter! Congrats on your courage to consider changing jobs. Join some wine clubs, read more, taste more. You might consider taking a sommelier certificate program at night or perhaps you want to plunge right in and enroll in one of the wine MBA university programs and try getting co-op work experience as part of the program. Another option is to start slowly and volunteer at a winery in the tasting room, or go be a cellar rat for slave wages. Lots of entry points. :)
Richard Miller from Toronto writes: Given your broad exposure to wine and related markets, are there any unrealized business opportunities that you see (and are not going after yourself): Are there any un/underserved markets or segments, any customer needs that haven't been sufficiently addressed, any areas that would benefit from having new, fresh competitors enter the space?
Natalie MacLean: No, I've covered them all, Richard. :) Okay, seriously, I think online wine sales and home delivery is a ripe market open for more competitors.
My passion is writing about wine, and more specifically, about the people who make, buy and drink wine: winemakers, sommeliers, retailers and drinkers. For me, wine is a pleasurable excuse to write about human nature. I raise my raise glass to everyone here!
Dave Michaels, globeandmail.com: And we've run out of time. Thanks, Natalie, for sharing your expertise with us today. Good luck with the next book!
Government Executive
October 2006
A fine wine is “like a sigh”
By Paul Crookall
Initially, one might question interviewing a wine writer for this magazine. But we have had enthusiastic responses to Natalie MacLean's previous contributions and she has just published her first book, Red, White, and Drunk All Over.
As we spoke, Natalie lovingly described how opening, tasting, and luxuriating in a good wine can provide a slow, warming, welcoming passage from the fast pace of work to a more relaxed evening. Unlike the fast hit of vodka or less legal drugs, it is "like the sigh at the end of a long workday that marks the transition into home life.”
The book is not a wine text. Instead, it draws the reader into the stories of people passionate about their business – a joke-cracking hippie who runs Bonny Doon wineries; a 73-year-old Frenchman who cares for each vine as a child, even though many have been in the family several decades longer than he has; and the centuries-old stories of the widows who made champagne.
Natalie came upon her career accidentally when, post-MBA, she was dining at an Italian restaurant. "Would you like to try the brunello?" the owner asked. Thinking it was a regional dish, she said yes. He came back with a bottle. "We were relieved not to have to tackle the wine list," Natalie recounts in her book. "Neither of us knew much more about wine than which fluffy animals on the label we liked best." She describes the wine as "a rich robe of mahogany…the aroma rushed out to meet me, and all the smells that I had ever known fell away. I didn't know how to describe it, but I knew how it made me feel...I felt the fingers of alcoholic warmth relax the muscles at the back of my jaw and curl under my ears. The wine flushed warmth up into my cheeks, down through my shoulders, and across my thighs…A pilot light had been ignited inside me; over time it would grow into the flames of full-blown passion."
What can one do if the ordered wine at a restaurant is not to their liking? It may not be 'bad' or 'corked', but it isn't what they were hoping for.
“Don't be intimidated by sending back a bottle that you don't like. A recognized industry standard is that up to ten percent of wine bottles are 'tainted' – their flavour is off. Or you may not be familiar with the wine you ordered – its not Yellow Tail – and simply may not be enjoying it. At the price you pay in a restaurant, you are entitled to get the wine you want. Restaurants report that less than one percent of wine is returned – so people are clearly drinking bad wine that they are too embarrassed to send back. You can reduce the chances of getting a wine you don't like by consulting with the sommelier or waiter. Let him/her know what kinds of wine you like, maybe suggest a choice of two or three from the list (so she will know what price range you want).”
What are your thoughts on the great cork debate?
“Screw caps have no negative effects on the flavour, and reduce the spoilage from bad corks. Don't be afraid to try them.”
For me, the ideal vacation is to take a golfing holiday to a wine-producing region. But I don't like morning golf, so I do the wineries first. That has an unintended side effect on my game. Do you have any advice?
“Your palate is actually best for wine tasting in the morning. So keep doing that, but learn how to spit rather than guzzle, that way you won't marinate your cortex.”
What should readers who want to learn a little more about wine do?
“Well, reading my book would be a good start. I find many of your readers also are on my website. You can join a local wine club – I meet many public service managers there. Take winery tours. Make notes on wines you have liked, and over time you will notice certain grape types, regions, and producers that you like.”
Grape Wall of China
July 1, 2008
By Jim Boyce
Sommelier and wine scribe Natalie MacLean has written for dozens of magazines and newspapers, penned Red, White, and Drunk All Over: A Wine-Soaked Journey from Grape to Glass, and authors the monthly wine newsletter Nat Decants. I asked MacLean, who hails from Canada, about how the palates of professionals and amateurs match up, how cultural background affects wine critics, the pros and cons of the Internet for wine consumers, and more.
In Red, White, and Drunk All Over, you state that you taste 3,000 wines per year, while a critic such as Robert Parker tastes as many as 10,000. Given this, how relevant are the palates of professional tasters to those of casual wine drinkers, especially as the former tend to spit wine and try it without food?
You’ve hit on the rub of the problem! To find good, reasonably priced wines, you need to taste many. I recommend just one or two wines for every 20 that I sample. But tasting large groups of wines does tend to numb the palate and take wine out of its intended context of a meal. However, I think that wine writers still do readers a service by trying lots of wines and weeding out the bad ones. The trick really is to find a critic whose palate is similar to your own so that you can trust his or her choices.
Your book covers a feud between American critic Robert Parker and British critic Jancis Robinson, and how each tended to be backed by his or her compatriots. This is intriguing since I sense the cultural background of wine writers will affect the Chinese market. To what extent do you think wine writers are influenced by their own cultures?
Wine writers are extremely influenced by their own cultures. Those of us who grow up in North America aren’t often exposed to wine until we’re adults. And even then, it’s New World wines that are usually our first wines. Contrast that to someone growing up in the U.K. or Europe where it is much more likely to be part of the family dinner.
You wrote about working with Randall Graham and his team at Bonny Doon Vineyards in California. How difficult was it to grasp and translate the technical side of making wine into terms accessible for readers?
The technical side is always a challenge, especially when you don’t have a chemistry degree. Most readers want to learn about the process but you must be careful that the technical details don’t derail the narrative. Good wine writing is good storytelling: you need to make readers curious, amused, and enlightened.
Due to the Internet, wine consumers have more access than ever to information. Your free e-newsletter, with more than 87,000 subscribers, demonstrates this power. For consumers, what are the pros and cons of getting wine information from the Internet?
The Internet means that wine information is easy to access anytime: you no longer have to be part of the industry or even take a course to be knowledgeable. The downside is that there is a lot of inaccurate and unclear information posted online. You need to sort through the various sites, blogs, and e-newsletters to find those you trust.
If you could change one thing about the wine industry in order to get more people to try wine, what would it be?
I’d make in-store sampling more prevalent. Wine is such a mysterious product to buy for many people. Most of us decide based on whether we like the cute squirrel or the ancient castle on the label. You need to taste wine to know if you like it. More sampling programs would take so much of the guess work and intimidation from the buying experience.
You are stuck on a desert island and allowed to have three bottles of wine - what would they be (we’ll say that the water in the lagoon is cool enough to chill Champagne)?
Domaine Romanee-Conti: all three bottles because it would be sad to have just one or even two if I knew I could have three.
Green Food & Drink Matches
“Green food and green wine go together, so veggies dance with wines that have herbal, grassy aromas, such as New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc,” says Natalie MacLean. “In fact, if there were an award for Veggie Wine of the Century, it would go to this one. Not only does it have complementary aromas of asparagus and canned peas, but it also has bright citrus notes that complement most vegetables.”
While white wines often work better than red wines with vegetables, light reds like Pinot Noir and Gamay also work because they have soft tannins, juicy berry flavors and good acidity. Big reds like Shiraz and Cabemet Sauvignon can end up fighting with veggies, because their robust tannins clash with the natural compounds and flavors in vegetables.
Natalie’s top 10 green food and wine matches:
1. Field greens salad and Sauvignon Blanc
2. Avocado and Pinot Grigio
3. Asparagus and Grüner Veltliner
4. Green peas and Pinot Blanc
5. Zucchini and Chenin Blanc
6. Artichoke and Verdicchio
7. Green tomatoes and Pinot Noir
8. Broccoli and Riesling
9. Bell pepper and Gamay
10. Green melon and Moscato d’Asti
The Nat Decants Mobile App has thousands of wines to pair with any dish: meat, pasta, seafood, vegetarian fare, pizza, eggs, cheese and dessert. You simply choose the food or wine to get the pairing suggestions. There are also lots of recipes for those planning an Irish-themed meal.
The mobile app is updated regularly with new dishes and wines from the 110,000-plus readers who subscribe to Natalie’s free e-newsletter, which offers tips on how to buy, cellar and serve wine.
Got a dish green or otherwise or a wine to stump Natalie? Just e-mail her via her web site and she’ll suggest a match for you. Get the free Nat Decants Mobile App here:
www.nataliemaclean.com/mobileapp
Please feel free to use any or all of the material on this page (and ignore the standard copyright notice below :)
Green Food & Wine
You don’t need the luck o’ the Irish to find great green food and drink pairings this St. Patrick’s Day, according to Natalie MacLean, who offers a new Drinks Matcher widget. “Just look for complementary flavors and textures.”
“Green food and green wine go together, so veggies dance with wines that have herbal, grassy aromas, such as New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc,” Natalie adds. “In fact, if there were an award for Veggie Wine of the Century, it would go to this one. Not only does it have complementary aromas of asparagus and canned peas, but it also has bright citrus notes that complement most vegetables.”
While white wines often work better than red wines with vegetables, light reds like Pinot Noir and Gamay also work because they have soft tannins, juicy berry flavors and good acidity. Big reds like Shiraz and Cabemet Sauvignon can end up fighting with veggies, because their robust tannins clash with the natural compounds and flavors in vegetables.
Natalie’s top 10 green food and wine matches:
1. Field greens salad and Sauvignon Blanc
2. Avocado and Pinot Grigio
3. Asparagus and Grüner Veltliner
4. Green peas and Pinot Blanc
5. Zucchini and Chenin Blanc
6. Artichoke and Verdicchio
7. Green tomatoes and Pinot Noir
8. Broccoli and Riesling
9. Bell pepper and Gamay
10. Green melon and Moscato d’Asti
Natalie’s free Drinks Matcher widget can be downloaded in just a few clicks to any computer desktop, web site, blog or social media page like Facebook, MySpace or iGoogle from www.nataliemaclean.com/matcher. The Drinks Matcher doesn’t just focus on green foods. The interactive tool has thousands of wines to pair with any dish: meat, pasta, seafood, vegetarian fare, pizza, eggs, cheese and dessert.
You simply choose the food or wine from a drop-down menu to get the pairing suggestions. There are also lots of recipes for those planning an Irish-themed meal. The matcher is updated regularly with new dishes and wines from the 100,000-plus readers who subscribe to Natalie’s free e-newsletter, which offers tips on how to buy, cellar and serve wine.
In Red, White and Drunk All Over, Natalie discusses how to match food and wine in greater depth, including wines for a multi-course dinner. There’s also a chapter with advice on pairing wine with five challenging foods: chocolate, cheese, spicy dishes, vegetables and fast food. Got a dish or a wine to stump Natalie? Just e-mail her via her web site and she’ll suggest a match for you.
Please feel free to use any or all of the material on this page (and ignore the standard copyright notice below :)
Gremolata
September 2006
By Malcolm Jolley
Natalie MacLean’s Red, White and Drunk All Over has already elicited praise from wine and food world luminaries like Hugh Johnson, Kermit Lynch and Michael Ruhlman, and closer to home fans like Jamie Kennedy, James Chatto and John Szabo. In other words, her book is a very big deal this season and I caught up with the multiple James Beard Award Winner and Ottawa native to talk about the chronicle that takes her across the world and into the parlours and caves of some of the most interesting people connected to wine.
THE INTERVIEW
Gremolata: This is a very personal book. Was that on purpose or did it just work out that way?
Natalie MacLean: Well, that's just kind of the way I write. I like first person narrative, not because of any grandiose sense of vanity, but I find that more of me goes onto the page when I'm talking personally. Then, in turn, I find that readers have always resonated more with the personal stories. So, I can write about the things to keep in mind when ordering off of a restaurant wine list, but when I write about the night I tried to work as sommelier, people like that more. It's an adventure: you still learn about wine, but it's mixed into the story. There are people involved, and some drama, and will it work out? I just think that's a more interesting way to write.
G: So what happened when you worked as a sommelier?
NM: [Laughs.] Well, I worked at a five-star restaurant in Quebec, Le Baccarat. It's in one of the casinos - they often have very good, high end restaurants.
G: To reward the high rollers, or take back their winnings!
NM: Right! So, they all wear tuxedos there...
G: How's your French?
NM: Tres mauvais, and with a Cape Breton accent, so it's no good. So I served the English speaking customers. Anyway, I got all dressed up in what looked like an undertaker's suit, and shadowed the real sommelier around for half the night. Then, at about eight o’clock I started working on my own. And I was serving very expensive wine. The bottles on their list range from the 'cheap' at $50 to $70 all the way to $10,000.
G: This what they call a "trophy cellar"?
NM: It is. There's something like 16,000 bottles.
So I'm handed the wine list, which has 400 bottles on it and they're mostly French, which is not my expertise, and I'm sent out to talk about them. Fortunately I had a fair amount of people who knew what they wanted. But I did have quite a few who asked me questions, and it was fun! I loved the interaction. It was like live theatre: very exciting. Of course, at one point, I managed to dribble red wine all over the white table cloth.
G: Ouch.
NM: So embarrassing. She didn't call over the Maitre d' but this woman was not impressed to see her cult Californian Cabernet miss the glass. But that was the worst. There were other odd things, like trying to pour from a height. When you're standing up it's hard to tell if you're pouring all the glasses at an equal level. I had to squat down. [MacLean bends down.] I had to go like this to make sure. It wasn't very dignified. I looked like a golfer inspecting the green. But I made sure everyone got the same amount of wine, and it was good fun.
I was really a way to talk about good wine service and how to choose from a restaurant list without getting really, really boring.
G: And what are those things?
NM: Well, they're integrated, but let’s talk about picking a wine from a list first. In a restaurant where there is a sommelier, or a "wine gal", or "wine dude", as they're sometimes called...
G: Sounds like California.
NM: Yeah, it's all very casual these days. But even if there's no one with that title, just say, "can I chat with the person who made up this list?" Just see if you can get some help. You know, I'm a wine writer, but sometimes there's no one who knows that list better than the person who made it: what's drinking well, and all that kind of stuff.
A lot of people are intimidated asking for help because they don't want to look stupid and that sort of thing. But you can ask in a different way. Instead of saying, "Could you suggest a red wine?" you could say, “We really like full bodied Aussie wines." And you can be quietly pointing at the wines in your price range at the same time. You don't have to declare how much you want to spend!
G: Price: that's always so awkward.
NM: Well, how much are you willing to pay for love? Or a business deal? [Laughs.] But seriously, a good sommelier will ask you what you're eating and they'll try and match. Or you can suggest it up front: "We're all having meat dishes tonight." There's a way of getting past your fear or anxiety of feeling stupid for asking for help. And this works in a wine store, too. Just think of a few questions that narrow it down.
Now, if there's no one who can really help you and you're on your own with a list, there are some good values these days worth looking for. Of course it depends on what you like. I'm a big fan of Canadian wines and I think they're some of the best values at the liquor store or on a wine list. So if I didn't recognise anything, but there were a bunch of Niagara's, that's where I'd go. Other wines that offer good value are Aussie Shirazes, or Chilean Cabernets. It also depends on what kind of budget you're dealing with. They do say you shouldn't pick the cheapest wine on the list. That it's probably just there as a whatever you call it. Everybody goes to the third cheapest one, when they don't want to spend a lot of money. But that one was probably the cheapest one last week, so... Anyway, that's kind of it: ask for help, know what you like, what you want to eat and what you want to pay.
G: What about service? What's good service?
NM: The server should be very helpful and they should guide the conversation. You really shouldn’t have to even ask those questions I just talked about. And when they come back with the bottle, it should always be presented. That’s not a pretension, that's just making sure you get the wine that you ordered. That there hasn't been any sort of bait and switch going on, or if it's a different vintage or vineyard. And when they show the bottle, they should also repeat you what you ordered: "Here's the 1992 Château Something or Other, X Vineyard." that's just another check to make sure you're getting what you wanted.
You should always be able to sample, to taste. Again, that's not a pretension, that's just making sure that bottle isn't off. That's something I write about at the end of the sommelier chapter. There was an instance in France where I was served a bottle of wine that was corked. I was alone, travelling for work - so, I was already a loser for sitting by myself. Then, I wanted to move because the next table was smoking. So the sommelier already didn't like me very much.
G: And the assumption in France is that you're lucky to even be served.
NM: Oh yeah. Plus you're a woman alone.
G: Right.
NM: And he doesn't know I'm a wine writer. I don't announce that because I don't like froufrou treatment. But the wine is corked. Now, I don't reject bottles very often, in fact I hadn't for a very long time, so my strategy was to be very quiet about it and say, "Could you try this? I think it's off." Of course, he marches it off to the middle of the room, tries it dramatically, comes back and claims it's fine!
So I kept drinking it a little bit. I was celebrating - it was actually my birthday...
G: No! That's awful!
NM: Yeah, and I was drinking a very expensive wine, that was corked. So, first I got angry, then I got upset. You know I can really empathise with people who have a hard time with wine service because by the time I had enough of this and asked for the manager I just burst into tears. People have told me that they find it hard to believe that this could happen to me: "you're a wine writer!" But you know, sometimes choosing a wine and then rejecting it comprises the full arc of a Greek tragedy: there's the shame, the embarrassment... anyway it ended up happily that night, but it can be tough.
This is actually an important point: you can send it back. And not just if it's corked or off. You have to ask yourself, do you like it? This is part of the pricing. And especially if the sommelier has recommended it and you get the wine and you don't like it, then you have the right to send it back. That option, that insurance clause - whatever you want to call it - is in the pricing. They should expect people to send wine back. Yet, even though they say between five and ten percent of bottles are corked, less than one percent of wines ordered are ever sent back, according to the sommeliers I've talked to.
G: I know that before I became seriously interested in wine, I suffered through more than one corked bottle and thought to myself, I don't think I like this wine very much.
NM: Right. Lots of notes of mouldy boxes. It's one of those social hang-ups. Ordering wine is a social hang-up, but sending it back is even worse.
G: Well, you don't want to be difficult. Especially if you're Canadian. But that's a good pint, that the return is factored into the glass. And I guess they can offer the bottle by the glass, if you just don't like it.
NM: That's right, if the wine is technically fine, but really not to your taste, they can offer what's in the bottle by the glass.
G: I'm glad you brought up France. I loved the first chapter where you go the great houses of Burgundy - talk about being intimidated! I wondered if you didn't write the book just so you go and taste Domain Romanée Conti!
NM: Well, I was going to start the book in California, but then I realised there'd be a lot left unexplained if we didn't start with the Old World. The benchmark wines are either Burgundy or Bordeaux, and I did go to Bordeaux, but I began with Burgundy because it’s a hard wine to understand and a region that is very complex. It was good place to write about how wine is grown, then we moved to the New World to talk a bit more on how it's made. And Pinot Noir is a personal favourite, so it came kind of naturally.
G: I liked your treatment of biodynamism - biodynamic wines. You seem sceptical but admit the product is often superior.
NM: Yeah. It is very strange, but it also has some sound principles concerning the effects of nature and the cycles of the Earth. And I do think we've gotten away from that, so it's good to get back to it, even if it does have a bit of witchcraft attached to it. I mean, some of the practices are pretty strange, burying bull's horns and things like that, but they all do have rationales behind them. I don't think it's so kooky to go with the moon cycles, anyway. And it's a good thing for what it's doing for wine, organic and biodynamic growing. It's about giving back to the soil and not about making wine for the marketing department. And some wines are these days: they're sprouting right from page three of the marketing plan.
G: I'm always suspicious when it looks like they spent more money printing the label than making the wine.
NM: I went through a stage where if it was a really beautiful label, then I didn't buy the wine. But then I started drinking really bad wines with ugly labels, so...
G: Where do you fall in the New World versus Old World debate?
NM: Personal preferences? I think I'm bridging the gap. I love Pinot Noir, but I love it from Burgundy, Oregon, the cool regions of California, from Canada (both regions: Niagara and the Okanagan), and especially New Zealand. So, I have a bit of a fixation on one grape. There's just nothing like a Burgundy, with its Old World earthiness, mushroom, fall burning leaves and all that stuff. Then, there's something completely different in a Pinot Noir from New Zealand, but the melody line is the same between them.
G: Red, White and Drunk All Over book touches on the Robert Parker, Jancis Robinson feud, with Hugh Johnson wading in and all that.
NM: It was great timing for my book! Actually, it was very interesting because I had done a couple of profiles of Robert Parker and had a long recorded interview, and then I also interviewed Jancis by phone. Hugh Johnson I quoted from his recent autobiography, because I did want him to weigh in briefly, thought the chapter is really about Parker and Robinson, so I didn't want too many voices there.
The feud really crystallizes the debate about what wine is about. The two of them are really at odds - more than odds - over a single bottle of wine: the 2003 Château Pavie from St. Emillion. Jancis gave it 12 out of 20 and called it a 'portly-sweet late harvest Zinfandel', or something like that. Not very nice. And Robert Parker said it was made by perfectionists and probably one of the best examples of the 2003 from the right bank and gave it a score somewhere between 96 and 100. Then it seemed like all the critics on either side of the Atlantic started lining up behind either Parker or Jancis according to where they lived. So we started to see some real palate differences, real differences in what wine should be. There's a whole debate going on now in the wine world where some are saying that alcohol is too high, the extraction is too high, that Parker has had too much influence, that wine makers are Parkerizing their wines to suit his palate. And then, now, there are other studies coming out that counter all of this. But, what I thought the feud did was really set-up the opposing poles on the views about wine and that was interesting. Of course, the debate turned into personal attacks, accusations about blind tastings and other things that got into the headlines. But, I thought, the other really valuable thing about it was that it showed how much we care about what wine is and where it's going. I can't imagine having this debate over different vodkas, or orange juice or anything like that. I think that's a good thing, it keeps wine alive.
G: This is a literary book. There are all kinds of references to the great canon of Western literature, and also classic food writers and wine writers. Who do you love to read on food and wine?
NM: I have unbound admiration for M.F.K. Fisher. I love Dorothy Parker, just for her wit and how much she liked to drink! She was a tough broad. And I love Collette. For her sensuality, but also because she came from Burgundy, her family were wine makers.
G: I didn't know that.
NM: Yeah, she wrote a little bit about wine. Her mother talks about her "rosy cheeks, showing the vineyards of France" because they were giving her wine as a kid... From Canada, I love James Chatto, John Allemang in The Globe. Jeffrey Steingarten for his wit, and Alan Richman in the States. Gina Mallet, a lovely food writer - so elegant. It's an endless list.
G: You know, I like that you're very upfront in this book, and in your newsletters, about the fact that wine has alcohol and if you drink enough of it you'll get drunk. I mean, that's a real taboo. Wine is supposed to be this ethereal thing, not some base Earthly pleasure.
NM: It is especially taboo for a wine writer to admit that he or she likes the buzz. But wine is a full sensory experience. It's not just tasting notes.
G: I think you enjoyed writing this book.
NM: It's been a real ride. I'm so glad I did it. It let me dig deeper than the writing I've done for magazines and newspapers. And I got to meet so many more people. This business, or industry, or whatever it is, is so full of charismatic, obsessive, passionate people. You know, I think what I'm really trying to do is use wine as a way into people's lives. You want to learn about wine in a wine book, of course. But I think you also want to learn about people and adventure and drama and feel some connection. Even though you may never meet any of these people, you share that passion for wine. And it's kind of neat to know what's going on all over the globe.
Guelph Mercury
April 10, 2008
By Judy Creighton
The Guelph Mercury published the same story as the London Free Press.
Halifax Herald
June 6, 2007
No more whining about wine and food pairings
Weddings, graduations, reunions and other summer gatherings often mean pairing food and wine, and Canadian wine writer Natalie MacLean’s website is full of suggestions.
At www.nataliemaclean.com/matcher the native of Lower Sackville provides more than 360,000 food and wine combinations.
"The old rules about white wine with white meat and red wine with red meat just don’t give enough guidance anymore," says MacLean, author of Red, White and Drunk All Over.
The site also offers recipes for a variety of dishes. MacLean adds more wines and foods based on readers’ suggestions, which she gets from the 71,000 subscribers to her free e-newsletter, Nat Decants.
Herald Tribune
June 27, 2007
By Linda Brandt
Would you would drink champagne with potato chips? The question interested me enough to visit www.natalie maclean.com/matcher. You can type in a food or a wine and get an idea which wine or food complements what you've got. This could be especially useful when you are trying to serve (and show your appreciation of) a gift bottle of wine.
Another click gives you recipes. Just for fun, I chose eggs, then narrowed it to bacon and eggs. The wine matcher chose semillon botrytised/sauternes. Another click turned up about 50 recipes with bacon in them that would go with the designated wine.
Curious about the champagne/potato chip thing, I next typed in Champagne, and sure enough, one of the foods that came up was potato chips, although it was listed under desserts.
The site is maintained and fed by Natalie MacLean, author of "Red, White and Drunk All Over."
Hitched Magazine
November 12, 2007
By Sara Pierce
There’s nothing like the holidays to inspire the inner host or hostess inside you to get to work. Planning a holiday party is easy; good friends, good food and good wine are all it takes to turn a cold winter evening into a night full of warm memories.
"A wine dinner is a wonderful theme for a get-together with friends," says Natalie MacLean, author of Red, White and Drunk All Over (www.nataliemaclean.com). "It can be either a fancy, multi-course meal or a casual potluck where everyone contributes. A variety of wines for the dishes is what makes it fun."
Choosing the right wine for each dish is easier than ever thanks to the accessibility of wine knowledge once reserved for sommeliers, connoisseurs and the occasional wine snob. So relax, have a drink, and try some of MacLean’s suggestions for putting together a memorable wine diner.
* Buy your bottles from regions producing delicious wines at great prices, such as Chile, Argentina and South Africa to keep the budget reasonable.
* Pour just two to three ounces of four wines instead of a glass or two of one wine so that you can try different wines with different dishes.
* Try both red and white wines to see which ones you like best (at the end of the evening, everyone can vote on a favorite wine).
* If you prefer to serve one wine at a time, start with light, dry white wines and progress to full-bodied reds so that each wine has a bolder taste than the last one.
* Finish the meal with a sweet wine, such as a late harvest Riesling or even a port, depending on how rich and sweet your dessert is. Your wine should be sweeter than the dessert so that the wine doesn’t taste bitter.
MacLean offers a food-and-wine matcher on her website with more than 364,000 food and wine combinations to help you choose the right wine to complement any dish. From appetizers to dessert, you’ll have everything you need to plan a wine dinner your friends will be talking about long after the holidays have passed.
Houston Chronicle
June 20, 2008
By Holly Ramer
His friends may call him a snob, and waitresses may give him odd looks, but David Turley isn't about to drink a beer with chunks of ice floating in it.
But that's what can happen at restaurants that insist on serving his favorite beverage in icy mugs. And so Turley has no qualms about insisting upon another, unfrosted, glass.
"I'm pretty passionate about it," says Turley, a 50-year-old information technology worker from Fredericksburg, Va. "The first thing I look at in a restaurant is the beer menu. I consider it a food."
Even casual drinkers of wine know that white wines are served cooler than reds. But few realize the difference a few degrees can make, and not just with wine.
Here's what some beverage experts say about the optimum temperatures for a variety of drinks, and the most common mistakes people make.
BEER
Most beer is served too cold, says Sang Yoon, a beer sommelier, chef and owner of Father's Office, a restaurant in Santa Monica, Calif.
But with most mainstream beers - the stuff produced by the major brand brewers - cold is fine. "Those don't have a huge aroma profile, so you can drink 'em really cold and you're not missing out on anything," Yoon says.
Aromatic beers that are brewed with more ingredients - pale ales for example -should be served around 40 F to 42 F, while beers with big flavor, such as Belgian ales, don't release their aromas until they hit about 50 F.
WINE
Wine often is served at the wrong temperature, says Natalie MacLean, editor of a wine newsletter and author of "Red, White and Drunk All Over," which explores how wine is made, marketed, matched with food and consumed.
"Too cold, and a wine's complexity and aromas are numbed; too hot, and it tastes alcoholic and flabby," she says.
The old advice about serving reds at "room temperature" comes from the days when the "room" in question was a drafty medieval castle, she says, not today's toasty, centrally heated homes.
Red wine should be served at about 60 F, though some light reds, such as Beaujolais, are better served cooler, she says. White wine should be chilled to about 55 F; the glass should feel cool but not ice-cold.
When in doubt, check the label: many bottles indicate the optimal serving temperature.
LIQUOR
There's a bit more leeway when it comes to hard liquor and mixed drinks.
Tricia Crighton of the Gin and Vodka Association of Great Britain says gin- and vodka-based drinks generally are served chilled, usually on ice, to emphasize the fresh taste.
"The dry martini should be very cold and some bartenders keep bottles in the freezer to achieve this," she says. "Usually though, a few good sized ice cubes will chill down cocktails and mixed drinks sufficiently."
Though cocktails historically have been enjoyed well-chilled, a new generation of bar chefs and mixologists are creating more complex cocktails whose flavors are best enjoyed slightly warmer.
COFFEE
The ideal temperature for coffee goes beyond taste, says Ric Rhinehart, executive director of the Specialty Coffee Association of America.
A brewing temperature between 195 F and 205 F is essential to achieve what he calls the appropriate "chemistry in your cup," or the right mix of soluble solids that make coffee look, smell and taste like coffee.
"When you get significantly higher than that, you tend to get some more of the bitter flavor extracted," he says. "When you get lower than that, you leave behind some of the more pleasant, interesting flavors and aromas."
The most common mistake is serving coffee that's not hot enough, he says. Frequently, the culprit is a drip coffee maker that doesn't get the water hot enough and has too long of a brewing cycle.
"And then there are still a few people - though there are very few and they are aging rapidly - who still use percolators," he says. "Percolators are just devastatingly bad for coffee because they circulate already brewed coffee and they drive temperatures over 205 degrees. It's just a terrible way to make coffee."
TEA
There are telltale signs when a cup of black tea is served at below-optimum temperature: the liquid will look clear and there will be a brown ring around the bottom of the cup.
"That's when you know you really made a mistake. If you taste it, it's going to taste like hot water," says Joe Simrany, president of the Tea Association of the USA.
"The problem is you're not extracting all the flavor that tea has to offer," he says.
Near boiling water is required to extract the most flavor from black tea. After 3 minutes of steeping, the tea should be about 185 F, he says.
For white or green tea, cooler temperatures are required, around 165 F to 185 F.
MILK
Milk's optimum temperature - 33 F to 35 F - is a matter of both taste and safety, says Gary Wheelock of the New England Dairy Promotion Board.
A temperature below 39 F is essential to prevent spoilage. His organization came up with a little rhyme for supermarkets to remind them to keep milk cold: "Below 39, it's fine."
"You also want to keep it cold just from a taste standpoint," he says. "Most people absolutely prefer to drink really cold milk, myself included."
SODA
In the Pepsi vs. Coke debate, Pepsi comes out on top (of the temperature scale). A company spokeswoman says Pepsi is best consumed at 42 F, plus or minus 3 degrees. A spokesman for Coca-Cola says Coke's ideal temperature is 38 F.
WATER
With such a basic beverage, there's a lot of room for personal preferences. But there are some common mistakes, says Michael Mascha, author of "Fine Waters: A Connoisseur's Guide to the World's Most Distinctive Bottled Waters."
"Americans drink water way, way too cold," he says, noting that doing so numbs the tastebuds.
Still water is best served at around 55 F - about the temperatue at which it comes out of the ground - rather than straight from the refrigerator, he says.
"Being a natural product, it's a good idea to drink it a natural temperature," he says.
With carbonated water, a slightly higher temperature mitigates the aggressiveness of large bubbles, he says, and lets the mineral content of the water come through.
Huffington Post
October 16, 2009
By Craig Goldwyn
Gourmet, the beloved 68 year old grande dame of culinaria, died on October 5, 2009. And the obits say I killed her.
Jennie Yabroff's autopsy in Newsweek blames Gourmet's elitism and people like me. To make her point, she quotes a story from the July issue of Gourmet by Alexander Lobrano: "[A]fter a stately pause, the graying waiter returned with a heavy copper casserole, which he set at my end of the table. Lifting the lid, he released a fleeting cloud of steam. The mingled aroma of wine, beef, and onions was so intoxicating it seemed an eternity before everyone had been served and I could dig in." Yabroff thinks this is a bit highfalutin, saying "Lobrano's story evokes life the way we want it to be; the way it is maybe once or twice in a lifetime," and she wonders if people like me, who write about food on the net, are to blame: "Perhaps the rise of food blogs means we're hungry for writing about food the way we actually prepare and eat it, crumpled paper napkins and all."
But Gourmet wasn't elitist even though it's name sounds snobby. It just took its subtitle, "The Magazine of Good Living", seriously. It told fascinating stories, used the best ingredients and proper cooking techniques to create memorable dishes, and photographed them lovingly. It also covered food politics intelligently, dining vividly, drink easily, culinary travel and culture thoughtfully. It covered street food and simple dishes as well as fantasy food. Subscribers kept every issue. It was not fussified. It just wasn't aimed at people who eat at McDonald's regularly or those who make macaroni and cheese from a box every week.
Chuck Townsend, CEO of Conde Nast, the owner of both Gourmet and Bon Appetit, is the one who took Gourmet to the slaughterhouse. He blamed the recession in his announcement to staff on October 5, 2009: "[I]n this economic climate it is important to narrow our focus to titles with the greatest prospects for long-term growth." Mediaweek translates: "Gourmet was the more luxury-oriented than sibling Bon Appetit, which made it an ill fit for today's budget-crunched times. Instead, those titles thriving in the space are new, celebrity-focused entries with mass appeal, like Hearst's Food Network Magazine and Reader's Digest Association's Every Day with Rachael Ray."
To make matters worse, printing and postage are usually the biggest expense items on a magazine's income statement, usually bigger even than payroll, and they have been rising like bread dough for decades.
But Gourmet's goose was cooked when 2009 ad sales shrank 43%.
Online advertising systems such as Google's AdWords had been draining Gourmet's blood. AdWords, and similar systems at Yahoo! and Microsoft Bing, allow advertisers to place their ads precisely where they need to be. No sense for mail-order steak catalogs to advertise on a page with a salad recipe. Plenty of sense for them to be on my beef recipe pages. Serving appropriate ads to people is the thing Google does best. Better even than search.
If you search Google for "steak recipes", you will probably see ads from the mail order steak companies in the right hand column. And maybe not. It changes from from day to day, and hour to hour. I just did the search and there was an ad from Dominick's, a Chicago-based grocery chain. Google knows where I live! It can tell by tracing the location of the company that supplies my internet access. AdWords buyers can get up-to-the-minute stats on exactly how many people saw their ad, clicked on it, and bought from it. No way a magazine or any other marketing medium can top that. Just another example of how the internet has ground up century old business models as if they were black pepper. Look at what it has done to newspapers, the US Postal Service, real estate sales, and travel agencies, to name a few.
Gourmet had other revenue streams and Conde Nast says it will keep the brand alive in them. It published cookbooks, and just this year put out Gourmet Today: More than 1000 All-New Recipes for the Contemporary Kitchen. If you buy it the book says you will get a free subscription to Gourmet. Oops! Don't wait for the sequel.
Gourmet produced an excellent television series for PBS, Gourmet's Diary of a Foodie, and has another Gourmet's Adventures with Ruth debuting in October 17, but that's not going to feed many employees. Classes and festivals? Sounds like fun, but shouldn't all these spinoffs be under Bon Appetit's brand, the name they have to build?
If the internet played a role in Gourmet's demise, then some of the blame can be found in the mirror, Mr. Townsend. Gourmet's website was free and had many of the magazine articles as well as videos and user feedback. Not only that, most of Gourmet's recipes can be found alongside recipes from Bon Appetit in Epicurious.com, a wonderful free database run by Conde Nast. So why buy the cow when you can get the milk for free?
According to the publishing trade mag, Folio, print periodicals have been crumbling at a record pace in recent years, far outstripping startups. The score is 383 to 259 so far in 2009. Among the recently interred were the reincarnation of Life, PC Magazine, Vibe, Men's Vogue, Cosmo Girl, Town & Country Travel, Portfolio, and Modern Bride. Makes one wonder how long before Bon Appétit, Cook's Illustrated, Every Day with Rachael Ray, Food & Wine, Food Network Magazine, Saveur, and the other epicurean mags hit their expiration dates.
2009-10-16-bon_appetit.jpgSome observers suspected that Conde Nast would try to blend their two food titles, but most expected Bon Appetit would get folded into the older, more stately Gourmet, whose Editor-in-Chief was the powerful and talented Ruth Reichl. But Bon Appetit, with the less prominent Barbara Fairchild at the helm, had the larger circulation (1.3 million vs. 950,000), its readers have slightly higher household income ($82,000 vs. $80,000), and more advertising, so it was a no-brainer from the financial standpoint.
Subscribers have been asking why Conde Nast did not sell the magazine. No doubt Townsend compared the two subscriber lists and saw minimal duplication. So they have automatically transferred all Gourmet subscribers to Bon Appetit. By merging them they found a way to significantly increase Bon Appetit's subscriber base with little expense.
Although it varies per magazine, new subscriber acquisition usually costs $20-40 per, making the first year of a subscription a wash. Renewal efforts can cost as little as $5 average, including efforts to retain dropouts. No doubt many Gourmet subscribers will dump Bon Appetit when their renewal bill comes, but many will stay on. Bon Appetit, which was founded in 1956, is a very good rag and I'm betting a majority will renew.
Bon Appetit could come close to increasing its circulation by half, and get there at a much lower cost than the usual way of beating the bushes for new subs, which is buying mailing lists and sending expensive snail mailing sales pitches.
In his eulogy in the New York Times, a grieving Christopher Kimball of Cook's Illustrated magazine examines the body of his competitor and fingers another suspect: You. You and your 3x5" cards and your keyboard and your desire to see your name online. "The shuttering of Gourmet reminds us that in a click-or-die advertising marketplace, one ruled by a million instant pundits, where an anonymous Twitter comment might be seen to pack more resonance and useful content than an article that reflects a lifetime of experience, experts are not created from the top down but from the bottom up." Kimball's excellent magazine, it must be noted, has no advertising, and is sustained solely by subscriptions. Ditto for its website.
He then spreads the blame to the advertising business model prevalent on the net and argues for the subscription model his site uses. "[We need to] define our brands, prove our worth, ask to be paid for what we do, and refuse to climb aboard this ship of fools, the one where everyone has an equal voice. Google 'broccoli casserole' and make the first recipe you find. I guarantee it will be disappointing. The world needs fewer opinions and more thoughtful expertise -- the kind that comes from real experience, the hard-won blood-on-the-floor kind. I like my reporters, my pilots, my pundits, my doctors, my teachers and my cooking instructors to have graduated from the school of hard knocks."
So I Googled "broccoli casserole" and the very first recipe was in cooks.com (not related to Cook's Illustrated). Cooks.com is a humongous recipe database and it had 395 (!) broccoli casserole recipes contributed by, well, You. The very first recipe, by someone identified only as "CM" called for "sliced chicken" to be placed in the bottom of the casserole and the rest of the ingredients go on top. Then it said "brown on the top third shelf in a 350F oven for about 15 minutes or until nicely golden." It doesn't say if I'm to use bake or broil, but I'm here to tell you, if you use raw chicken, 15 minutes on either setting is not likely enough time to kill salmonella, rampant in raw chicken nowadays. You could be more than "disappointed" in the first recipe you find, as Kimball predicts. You could be serving everyone a nice case of food poisoning.
I randomly clicked on some of the other recipes. A few looked like they might be pretty good. But many had confusing ingredients lists, failing to specify what kind of cheese, and many others called for Velveeta or Cheez Whiz, officially classified as "pasteurized process cheese" that tastes more like plastic than real cheese. Other recipes had sketchy instructions. None appeared to be written by a pro, although a few did look to be cribbed from cookbooks and, perhaps, even Gourmet.
Looking closer at the search results for "broccoli casserole" from Google, I noticed that the 122nd listing was a link to a recipe in Conde Nast's Epicurious.com by someone named "hayesmd", an anonymous civilian, not even a recipe from Gourmet or Bon Appetit! I also checked out the recipe on CooksIllustrated.com. A polished recipe with precise instructions. Looks killer.
The latest thing is "crowd sourced" recipe sites like Foodista.com and the recipes section of Wikia.com. Anyone can edit any recipe they want. The theory is that the wisdom of the crowd will produce something better than any individual can. It works fairly well on Wikipedia.com, an online encyclopedia. So, if I hate cilantro, I can whip through the site removing cilantro willy nilly. If I like spicy food, I can add a splash of hot sauce to everything. It I work for Velveeta, well, you get the picture. These are new sites, so only time will tell if they produce anything useful, but I am skeptical.
Real recipe writing is hard work and it takes experience. It can take a dozen attempts to get it right. Adjust one ingredient and you probably have to adjust others. After you get it down you have to explain each step so there is no ambiguity. A serious food writer lives in fear of ruining somebody's meal with an imprecise instruction. I've been working on my recipe for the ultimate hamburger on and off for months and I still haven't published it.
2009-10-16-pioneer.jpgI had to wonder, where in Google are the recipes from chefs or experienced foodies who slave over first rate websites for few returns? Where are the links to Brigit Binns (RoadFoodie.com), Michael Chu (CookingForEngineers.com), Steve Dublanica (WaiterRant.net), Ree Drummond (ThePioneerWoman.com), Clotilde Dusoulier (ChocolateAndZucchini.com), Robin Garr (WineLoversPage.com), Jaden Hair (SteamyKitchen.com), David Leite (LeitesCulinaria.com), Nancy Loseke and Tj Robinson (TheOliveOilSecret.com), Harold McGee (CuriousCook.com), Natalie MacLean (NatalieMacLean.com), Michael Ruhlman (Ruhlman.com), Maria Rodale (HuffingtonPost.com/Maria-Rodale), David Rosengarten (RosengartenChews.tumblr.com), or Jeff Varasano (Slice.SeriousEats.com/jvpizza)? Perhaps these sites don't have broccoli casserole recipes, and that's why they weren't on the Google list.
But all too often their work is buried waaaaaay down the results list of the big search engines. Trying to find the best websites on food is like going into the library for a cookbook and finding all the books are on the floor in a pile. Clearly Google and gang have a lot of work to do. At least when it comes to food, they are bringing us quantity, not quality.
Did websites like these contribute to Gourmet's passing, as Newsweek accuses? Perhaps, but considering how hard it is to find quality food info in Google, it is doubtful that we were major factors.
So who killed Gourmet? A thorough post-mortem shows that, like Juius Caesar, Gourmet was surrounded and knifed from all sides. Clearly Brutus was Conde Nast, but conspirators were numerous: The recession, advertisers, Google AdWords, Google Search, Bon Appetit, Epicurious.com, printers, the US Postal Service, perceived elitism, websites like mine, and You.
What does the future hold? While I am mourning the passing of a great magazine, I will continue to devour Cook's Illustrated and Bon Appetit. But I won't be buying two-year subscriptions for Christmas gifts. I hope they make me eat my words.
Until Google Search gets its act together, here's my list of some of my favorite food and drink websites. Tell me about yours.
Into Wine
September 5, 2007
By Brad Prescott
Enjoying wine is as much a hands on experience as is anything. The history of the wine –- the grapes, the region, the winemaker, the vintage -- and the people with whom you drink it are the variables that shape the wine drinking experience from one of simple consumption to something of deeper impact in our daily lives.
Award-winning writer Natalie MacLean has carved out a career by skipping past the pretensions of wine and food and embracing the personalities, emotions, and simple human curiosity that make wine and food a sensual obsession rather than just basic sustenance. Into Wine recently caught up with Natalie to discuss her new book, Red, White and Drunk All Over: A Wine-Soaked Journey from Grape to Glass, as well as her views on wine.
What is the inspiration behind this book?
I wanted to explore issues such as what makes wine great, how to pair it with food, why we need sommeliers and others in greater depth than I was able to in my print and online journalism. A book allows you to dig deeper.
You chose a first person, "hands on", approach to this book. Why?
My book is written in the same style I use for my journalism, and both reflect the way I think and talk. I prefer to be conversational and intimate when I write as that's my "authentic" voice and allows me to connect with readers more effectively. The hands on part allows me to observe and feel more deeply, which is especially effective when you're slugging winery hoses during the harvest or dripping wine across the tablecloth as a sommelier.
You met many wine personalities in writing this book. Now that it is complete, with whom would you most like to spend an evening tasting?
I'd invite them all back for a tasting dinner because I'd want them to meet each other, and I'd love to listen to the conversation that ensues!
You are a former dancer, a Rhodes Scholar finalist, a 19th Century English Literature major, and an MBA. How did this lead you to writing about wine?
They all seem disconnected except that I have a taste for life and follow my passions. All of those endeavors now inform the way I write and see the world.
You discuss food and wine pairing both in the book and on your web site. However, your pairings go beyond the haute stylings common to gourmet wine and food pairings. You delve into everything from pairing wine to traditional food items such as poached salmon all the way to everyday foods such as Kentucky Fried Chicken or Jello. Share with us your thoughts behind this as well as some of your "less traditional" pairing suggestions.
I love shabby-chic combos of simple foods with delicious wines. It's like dressing up jeans with rhinestones. Wine doesn't have to be just for fancy meals and special occasions. And if you're a poor cook, like me, wine can save a meal.
You traveled to California and France in researching this book. What were you seeking to discover in each region?
I wanted to find the people most passionate about wine, whether they were vintners, wine merchants or sommeliers. The story of wine is the story of people.
What are your thoughts on the 100 point scoring systems popularized by Robert Parker and other critics?
Ha! Please read chapter four. I discuss the many pros and cons of wine scores in the book but here's where I net out: no subjective experience, such as the taste of wine, can be trapped in a number. That said, I do score wines because my readers find them useful shorthand to make buying decisions. My scores are a proxy for my taste. If they trust that, they use my scores.
Having sampled the working life of multiple wine professions, which did you find the most enjoyable? Who is most under appreciated by the average wine enthusiast?
I enjoyed being a sommelier most. I think it's interacting with people and sharing the passion for wine with them that was so enjoyable. And sommeliers are among the most under appreciated of the wine professions, but that's changing.
Fill in the blank: The single best part of writing this book was the ... drinking -- for research purposes, I had to be thorough.
Ithaca Journal
February 14, 2008
By Maggie Hibma
Natalie MacLean didn't start out with a love of wine. Meals with her husband, who enjoyed having a bottle of wine with dinner, are where MacLean first discovered wine.
“I always say that I didn't start drinking until I met my husband,” said MacLean. “And now that I am writing about wine for a living, I don't have a reason to stop.”
Editor of a free wine newsletter at www.nataliemaclean.com, MacLean took her love of wine and turned it into a career. Starting off by writing about wine on the Internet, she was picked up by a local food magazine who gave her a regular column.
Her vacations turned into wine-country adventures as her love of wine grew, and the thought of getting paid to write about wine became less and less outrageous.
“With my first glass of wine, I thought, ‘This tastes and smells so amazing. I want to learn how to talk about it,'” MacLean said. “Even now, I still describe myself as an enthusiastic amateur, not an expert. I don't want to preach about wine, I just want to share what I know.”
Check out Natalie's suggestions for pairing wine and food this Valentine's Day.
Steak
Steak goes well with a big, hefty red wine. The protein in the meat will “marry,” or mix with the tannins in the wine and it will make the wine and steak taste richer. Her suggestion: Cabernet Sauvignon
Chicken
Chicken is a chameleon dish, and how to match wine with it depends on how it is prepared. Chicken goes well with a lot of white wine, and you can't go wrong with a nice chardonnay or a pinot grigio. Her suggestion: California Chardonnay
Fish
When you have fish, you are dealing with iodine. Even though some foods break the “wine” rules, fish is usually not one of them. For most fish, you need a crisp, light wine. Salmon or tuna, however, are meaty dishes, and with that you could use a pinot noir. Her suggestion: New York Riesling
Pasta
Pasta is usually just a vehicle for sauce. If you are eating pasta with a regular tomato sauce, you want a wine to bring out the red-fruit flavors, like nice Chianti. In a situation like this, you can't go wrong with matching food and wine that both come from the same region. Her suggestion: Chianti
Pork
Pork is a meaty dish, and if it's served with a honey-glaze or a sweet sauce, you want dry white wine or a pinot noir to bring out the fruit flavors that will complement the sweetness of the sauce. Her suggestion: California Zinfandel
Wine and aphrodisiacs
* Asparagus + New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc: Green foods demand to be paired with green, herbal wines to match the aromas in the wine to the food on the plate.
* Fresh Fruit + New York Ice Wine: You want a wine to match the sweet, acidic flavors of the fresh fruit you are preparing.
* Truffles + Pinot Noir: You need a feral wine to compliment the earthy, wild flavors of this fungi.
* Figs, pomegranates + Vintage / Tawny Port: Both of these foods crave a nice port wine to fortify their flavors.
* Honey + Tokaji Hungarian dessert wine: This sweet dessert wine, with it’s honey and citrus flavors will compliment the honey in any dish perfectly.
James Beard Foundation
May 20, 2009
We asked sommelier, writer, and four-time Beard Award winner Natalie MacLean to tell us her favorite summertime wines that don’t cost an arm and a leg.
Best Patio Sipper: Ca’ Del Solo Vineyard Muscat 2007 (Monterey, CA): Medium-bodied and slightly off-dry white. About $17.
Best Poolside Chiller: Nobilo Regional Collection Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2006 (New Zealand): Pure grassy goodness! About $16.
Best Barbecue Quaffer: Peter Lehmann Shiraz Grenache 2005 (Australia): A full-bodied palate-whacker of a wine. About $15.
Kalamazoo Gazette
March 2, 2008
By Jeff Barr
I don't know about you, but I've always found the world of wine just a tad bit pretentious. Perhaps I label it so because it is a universe of which I am not a citizen. Fermented grapes have never done much for me, even in the days when hops and barley did.
My latest contact with the wine world came the other day at the Westnedge Avenue Meijer store, of all places. I'm walking down the wine aisle strictly as a shortcut to the Oreos, and a well-dressed woman felt the need to impart her wine wisdom on me.
"This is a wonderful chard for the price," she said, picking up a bottle that had a leaf on it. I knew nothing of the brand or the wine, but the leaf was kind of cool.
"Uh-uh," was my brilliant response, but my semi-grunt wasn't enough to let her know that she may as well have been speaking in tongues. Perhaps she was.
Whatever language she was speaking, it was clear she wasn't quite finished speaking it. "Oh, and I can't even believe they have this cab," she went on, quite impressed with herself and her discovery. "I buy a lot of wine here, and I've never seen this cab before."
Chard? Cab? I grew up in a big city. When we used words like that, we were talking about burned-up taxis.
When I'm asked about wine in public, my wife, Kelle, better be by my side giving me the wine high sign. Otherwise, my glass is half-empty. "Did you say fine? You asked if I'm fine? Why yes, I'm fine. Thanks for asking. It's pretty loud in here. Excuse me, have you seen Kelle?"
Luckily, there's a portal into the world of wine that is the common man's cup of tea. It's a book by Natalie MacLean titled, Red, White and Drunk All Over: A Wine-Soaked Journey from Grape to Glass.
"Zinfandel with your Tex-Mex? Not a problem," she says. "A little chardonnay with your fried chicken take-out? Delicious. Pinot Noir and wild boar? Why not?"
I like this lady. She takes the pretension out of her passion for Pinot. Her Web site (www.nataliemaclean.com) even has a matching tool that enables you to pair up just about any food imaginable with the proper wine. It matches wines with pizza, eggs, cheese and even Jello.
MacLean just might keep me from feeling like I'm over a barrel the next time wine comes up in conversation.
I wonder what you're supposed to drink with Oreos?
Kansas City Star
November 18, 2007
By Lauren Chapin
Choosing a beverage to pair with the Thanksgiving turkey is as important as deciding what ingredients should go into the stuffing.
But rather than stressing about how to make just the right wine pairing, Natalie MacLean, a James Beard award-winning author of Red, White and Drunk All Over, suggests taking a deep breath and relaxing.
With a glass of wine, of course.
The Canadian wine expert is the engine driving one of the most popular, comprehensive, all-things-wine Web sites out there, nataliemaclean.com, launched in 2000.
More than 80,000 Web-surfers subscribe to the Nat Decants e-newsletter, and her Web site is visited by more than 1.3 million unique visitors a year.
“I think wine lovers are a natural fit with the Internet because wine is an info-intensive purchase that you usually can’t try before you buy the way you can with a car or a dress,” says MacLean.
“So many people seek a critic’s advice/shopping list. They want to know how it tastes, its body and food matches.”
MacLean offers weekly wine-tasting columns, recipes, food and wine pairing guides, lists of books and movies that wine geeks would enjoy, and podcasts, including one dedicated to Thanksgiving food and wine pairings.
“Thanksgiving can seem overwhelming, so just drink what you like,” she says. “If it doesn’t work out, don’t get caught up in finding the perfect wine match.”
But MacLean offers these straightforward rules to help simplify the process. (And remember that there are some rules to follow and some rules meant to be broken.)
•Pour some champagne. “It is one of the most food-friendly wines on the planet,” MacLean says. “It adds a festive note, so start the meal with a toast to friends, family and good health.”
She suggests a nonvintage Champagne, such as French Veuve Clicquot, Champagne Louis Roederer or Bollinger or American sparklers like Domaine Carneros, Domaine Chandon or Roederer Estate Anderson Valley.
•Juicy wines can help moisten the turkey. Choose juicy, generous, fruit-forward wines, such as a Beaujolais or a Gamay. “You can make up for cooking mistakes with wine,” MacLean says.
•Don’t be afraid of sweetness. Look for ones with some level of sweetness, either from fruity sweetness from the grapes or from residual sugar. She loves German Rieslings, for example, with their mouthwatering acidity and floral and pear aromas. Rieslings can handle many traditional-and-sweet side dishes, such as sweet potatoes.
•Look for wines that are middle of the road. Look for modestly tannic wines and wines that are not too heavily oaked, especially if guests are a mix of novice and experienced drinkers. A California Zinfandel would be a good example.
•Don’t forget the Pinot Noir. MacLean recommends a classic turkey-pairing wine, New World Pinots from Oregon, California and New Zealand that tend to be more ebullient and fruity.
Kansas City Star (2)
December 19, 2007
By Lauren Chapin
You can argue that winemakers were wagging the dog when they came up with a catchy name for California wines made with traditional Bordeaux grapes.
They even hosted a competition in 1988, looking for a name that would brand their high-quality blends. More than 6,000 names were submitted. The winner: Meritage, a compound of the words “merit” and “heritage” and pronounced like heritage.
The Meritage Association, which protected the name with the U.S. Department of Trademarks and Patents, established the criteria: To be a Meritage, the wine must be made from two or more Bordeaux grapes. The red grapes are Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, Malbec, Carmenere, Gros Verdot and St. Macaire. White Meritage can be made from Sauvignon Blanc, Sauvignon Vert and Semillon. No more than 90 percent of one varietal may be in the blend.
The wine also must be made from the best of each winery’s varietals and be produced and bottled by an American winery from grapes grown in a designated appellation. And production must be no more than 25,000 cases.
A marketing ploy? Maybe, but one with a purpose. As Internet wine writer Natalie MacLean (natdecants.com) explains: “The intention of the Meritage Association was to simplify wine so that consumers would not have to memorize all grapes and blends. It is making its mark and was worth doing.”
Meritage wines, most made primarily with Cabernet Sauvignon, tend to be generous and elegant and benefit from breathing. And they pair particularly well with hearty winter dishes or hearthside sipping.
“A blend may not make a better wine, but it makes a different wine with different nuances,” MacLean says. “And a Meritage can be more consistent from year to year.”
Some to consider for the holiday, beyond Napa Valley giants that dominate many restaurant wine lists, include Robert Mondavi and Baron Philippe de Rothschild’s Opus One, Valeria and Agustin Huneeus’ Quintessa, Joseph Phelps’ Insignia and Christian Moueix’ Dominus. Vintages may vary.
•Chateau Ste. Michelle 2004 Artist Series Meritage: 51 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, 34 percent Merlot, 11 percent Malbec, 4 percent Petit Verdot. More feminine than others but with muscle and structure. Blackberry and blueberry nose; velvety, long finish. Mellow tannins make it particularly food-friendly. Groovy label by artist Alden Mason. Gomer’s South. Around $50.
•Clois du Bois Marlstone 2003: 69 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, 22 percent Merlot, 2 percent Cabernet Franc, 4 percent Malbec, 3 percent Petit Verdot. Gomer’s, Royal Liquors and JJ’s. Closdubois.com; $50 to $74.
•Dry Creek the Mariner Dry Creek Valley 2004: 46 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, 40 percent Merlot, 6 percent Malbec, 5 percent Cabernet Franc, 3 percent Petit Verdot. Wrap this one around you like a velour bathrobe. Mouthfuls of dusky dark cherry. Red X, Gomer’s South, Lukas Liquor, JJ’s. Drycreek vineyards.com; $40 to $58.
•Estancia 2004: 61 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, 30 percent Merlot, 9 percent Petit Verdot. Think intense chocolate, softened with a little residual sugar and toasty oak. Gomer’s North, Gomer’s South, Red X, Classic Cup. Estanciaestates.com; $31.
•Franciscan Magnificat Red Wine 2004: 70 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, 29 percent Merlot, 1 percent Petit Verdot. Supremely elegant with plums and cassis. Pierpont’s, Lukas Liquor, Royal Liquor. Franciscan.com; $54 to $70.
Love to Know Wine
October 19, 2007
By Wendy Michaels
LoveToKnow Wine had the pleasure of interviewing Natalie MacLean, author of Red, White, and Drunk All Over, a book for both wine experts and beginners alike. MacLean offers her expertise and insight in this informative and entertaining book. Grab a glass of your favorite wine and learn more about the author, her website and her book.
Could you tell our readers a little bit about your book, Red, White, and Drunk All Over?
I take my readers behind the scenes of the international wine world, exploring its history, visiting its most evocative places and meeting its most charismatic personalities. For example, while tasting sensuous pinot noir in the ancient cellars of Burgundy, I discover the mysterious tenets of biodynamic viticulture from the tiny, ferocious Lalou Bize-Leroy, part-owner of France's acclaimed Domaine de la Romanée-Conti. I work in a couple of wine stores to figure out how people can find the right bottle when faced with thousands of them. And I wade into a famous feud between Robert Parker and Jancis Robinson, two of the world's best-known wine critics to determine what those scores out of 100 really mean.
Is your book best suited for beginners or can all levels of wine lovers gain something from it?
I hope that the book will appeal to two groups. One is beginners who are just starting to learn about wine and who will pick up a lot of tips from this book but won't find it intimidating. The other group includes those who are already knowledgeable about wine, but will enjoy reading all the inside stories about people in the international wine world. (And if you're buying gifts for these people in your life, you can get a lot of your shopping done in one swoop.)
The book is also ideal for those who are part of a wine club, since it can give them new ideas for tasting themes and discussions. It's also good for members of book clubs who would enjoy a good glass of wine as they discuss this book and their favorite wines or most memorable bottles. In fact, I've included tips on how to set up an informal wine tasting with friends at home.
My book will also be useful to those thinking of traveling to a wine region: they could either read it before going or while there. That's especially true for anyone visiting one of the famed wine regions I describe, such as California, Burgundy or Champagne. Those who prefer to be armchair tourists, with a good glass in hand, can journey vicariously with me.
And finally, I think my book would make a great hostess gift for a dinner party or holiday gathering. Instead of agonizing over which bottle to bring when your host has probably already chosen the wines anyway, why not bring this book? It's a great conversation piece that will make you look cultured but with a great sense of humor.
Why did you write this book?
Although I've been exploring my passion for wine in the articles I write for magazines and newspapers, I knew that writing a book would allow me to dig even deeper, meet more fascinating people, travel to more interesting places and even spend more time thinking about just what makes us so crazy about wine.
Food and Wine Pairing
What is the hardest food to pair with a wine? Any tricky ones?
Although I addressed general food-and-wine matching principles in the hard cover edition, I decided to focus on five foods that are toughest on wine: salads and vegetables, spicy dishes, take-out and frozen food, cheese, and chocolate. So many readers have asked me about these particular pairing challenges that I thought it deserved its own chapter. As a determined hedonist, I won't admit that there's any food that can't be paired with some wine. The guidelines for pairing wine with difficult food are the same as those for traditional wine-friendly dishes: harmonize your flavor, texture, and weight.
Beyond this, there are some specific tips to keep in mind with each of these groups. For example, my theory is that green food and green wine go together. So veggies dance with wines that have herbal, grassy aromas, such as New Zealand sauvignon blanc. In fact, if there were an award for Veggie Wine of the Century, it would go to this one. Not only does it have complementary aromas of asparagus and canned peas, but it also has bright citrus notes that complement most vegetables. You'll find the real meat of the discussion in the book.
Do the old rules of wine matching still apply (red wine with red meat, white wine with white meat)?
Those are good guidelines and starting points, but food and wine have both changed so much that the key is to experiment.
Natalie’s Website
How did you develop your interactive food-and-wine matcher? Tell us about it. (We particularly love the ability to click for recipes that have a complimentary ingredient from the search as well as find your wine reviews for the recommended wines.)
Creating this tool also stems from the many questions about food and wine matching that I received from readers of my e-newsletter. I wanted to make the suggestions fast and simple, and to use the technology available to me.
What can visitors to your web site expect if they sign up for your newsletter?
Every month, I e-mail more than 80,000 wine lovers my top wine picks, tips on matching wine with food, choosing from restaurant lists and cellaring wine. On my web site, I've also posted more than a thousand links to vintage charts, wine accessories, food-matching advice, wine region tour guides, producers and retailers, clubs and courses, industry jobs, and my favorite wine books and movies.
What if a visitor can't find a particular food or wine in your matching database? Is there a way for people to contact you?
Sure! They should e-mail me via my web site and I'd be happy to suggest a match for them ... and then I'll add it to the matcher.
Favorite Wine
What is your favorite type of wine, and why?
The one someone else buys for me! Seriously, I do love pinot noir for its seductive aromas and flavors, and the way it pairs with so many dishes. That's why chapter one is all about pinot.
Luxist
February 2, 2008
By Laura Malesich
Now that it is officially February most of us are sketching out our plans for Cupid's Day and most likely that day will involve wine, chocolate or both! But have you ever chosen a wine to go with a meal or dessert that flopped because you didn't know how to properly match the two together?
Fear not, Natalie MacLean has a match-making guide (for food and wine, not love -- sorry) to make you look like a pro and seduce your lover with ease. If you need some quick ideas to get you started, here are her top 10 wine and chocolate matches you can't miss:
1. Dark Chocolate and Banyuls, France
2. Chocolate-Covered Biscotti and Recioto Della Valpolicella, Italy
3. Chocolate-Orange Cake and Liqueur Muscat, Australia
4. Chocolate with Nuts and Tawny Port, Portugal
5. Milk Chocolate and Tokaji, Hungary
6. Bittersweet Chocolate and Amarone, Italy
7. Chocolate-Dipped Fruit and Icewine, Canada
8. Chocolate Ganache Truffles and Sauternes, France
9. Chocolate Raspberry Cheesecake and Framboise, California
10. Chocolate Hearts with Cream Filling and Cream Sherry, Spain
In general, Natalie suggests the "creamy flavors of chocolate go best with sweet, full-bodied, high-alcohol wines" and if you are in need of recipes, she has you covered there too. No excuse now to not come through for your sweetheart on Valentine's Day.
Maclean's Magazine
September 24, 2007
By Amy Rosen
Please note: This story has been edited for length.
Jewish people around the world have something extra to be thankful for during the upcoming High Holidays: fine wines. For too long wine has been an afterthought (except for the sacramental variety) at the Sabbath table. That's changing.
Joan Nathan, the grand doyenne of Jewish cookery in North America and author of seven bestselling cookbooks, says kosher wine used to be synonymous with syrupy cough medicine -- not exactly food-friendly; really more prayer-friendly. She recently visited the Judean Hills in Israel. "I always thought of the Golan Heights as having good wine, but these wines in the Judean Hills were great -- not like the sweet sacramental wines at all." These kosher wines are, in fact, winning awards in international competition.
Natalie MacLean, the author of Red, White and Drunk All Over, notes there are many non-kosher Jews who still enjoy a traditional High Holiday meal with wine: "Brisket is delicious with rich, full-bodied red wines, such as Argentine Malbec and Rhône Valley Syrah. However, a lighter dish, such as gefilte fish, swims with crisp whites, like Pinot Blanc and Sauvignon Blanc." She says there are loads of possibilities: matzo ball soup with Chardonnay, kugel with Champagne, "and for an extra kick, when you've been sitting at the dinner table for four hours, try honey cake with ice wine."
She concurs with the other experts that Israel is producing some outstanding wines these days: "Two of my favourites are both robust Cabernet Sauvignons, one made by Saslove Winery from upper Galilee and the other, Yarden Golan Heights Winery. I've rated both of these wines 90 out of 100 and they'll both age for a decade or more -- long enough to get you through many Rosh Hashanah meals."
Over the years, the Jamie Kennedy Wine Bar in Toronto has served up seasonal Jewish favourites ranging from chicken soup to latkes, and sommelier Jamie Drummond has been there with the appropriate wines to match. "Thinking of the fat present in a good chicken soup, I would tend to look toward something like a bone dry and tangy Manzanilla sherry, which may sound a little odd to some," he says, "but people seem to have forgotten just how stunning a partner this style of sherry can be with certain foods." He adds that a crisp and zesty Gruner Veltliner from Austria would also work well with the soup. "Brisket is interesting," adds the Scottish-born sommelier. "Perhaps it's just been my bad luck with the Jewish brisket I've been served, but it appears almost like a 'tradition' to burn the living daylights out of this particular cut. So I would tend to use something like a sangiovese-based Italian. A decent Chianti would be a great match actually, and since it's probably for a special occasion, a Riserva with a little barrique aging would be a great choice, and quite often worth the extra bucks."
Howard Wasserman, a partner at the wine-importing company B & W Wines, says that Israel, "after 2,000 years," is finally producing wines with "chutzpah." His company has recently put together a list of quality wines that match well with traditional Jewish foods. "Cholent, the glue of the Western Jewish world, needs a strong partner, something like an old friend, a classic deep rich Cabernet from Penley Estate [South Australia]." Israel's Tulip Winery Cabernet worked perfectly with a recent Friday night brisket, Wasserman says, while things got off to a nice start with Vitkin Winery's Viognier -- excellent with the matzo ball soup. "Along with everyday wines, there are some Israeli collectibles, such as Margalit Cabernet Franc, which have been recognized worldwide."
The fact remains, though, that historically Jews have not been big drinkers. "We have a tradition of eating and drinking together," says Joan Nathan, "but not of just drinking. I think the next generation is changing that."
Melbourne Weekly Bayside
February 14, 2008
By Matt Preston
Oops, it’s Valentine’s Day and you’ve forgotten to get a booking at your partner’s favourite restaurant, which now has more reservations than a nervous bungee jumper. You are, in common parlance, dead, or you will be if you don’t act fast.
You could just take him or her somewhere that doesn’t take bookings, such as Longrain in the city or Cicciolina in St Kilda, or go for oysters and champagne at the bar at Oyster
Little Bourke or the Melbourne Wine Room.
The danger with this is that your valentine might want to know why you didn’t book somewhere proper – and then the jig is up. If you haven’t booked, it is far better to point out that going to a restaurant on Valentine’s Day is "such a cliche´" – that’s when all the least sophisticated people have a big night out – and you didn’t want to share your beloved with a room full of strangers.
Then set a time for that evening when you can be alone. This should buy you a couple of hours organising time at least. As Shakespeare so famously wrote, "food be the music of love" – so there is no better way to celebrate Valentine’s than by feeding the one you love something delicious in
nice surroundings.
Get a rug, an ice bucket, two champagne flutes and a chilled bottle of fizz – remember Valentine’s Day is all about presentation, so those extra touches make it look like you’ve planned ahead even when you haven’t – and then head off with them to buy fish and chips from your favourite chippy to enjoy on the beach with a glass of the fizz. Or pull together a picnic as simple as smoked salmon sandwiches and take your valentine to a leafy spot in a botanic garden
– or, even better, boating at Studley Park. The boating costs $36 for two hours, but check with the boathouse (98531828) to make sure the boats aren’t already booked. Don’t forget the insect repellent.
The presence of young children obviously complicates matters. Let’s face it: few teenage babysitters are willing to admit they are free on this night of the year, especially at short notice. This means the Valentine’s Day treat
may need to be given at home, which necessitates something more focused and luxurious.
Immediately, I’m thinking chocolate – but chocolate alone is hardly enough! You need to add a sexy tipple. This is where wine whiz Natalie MacLean steps in. Natalie has compiled a list of 50 chocolate dishes, each perfectly matched with
a sexy wine or two. The dessert section of her online food and wine matching tool at www.nataliemaclean.com/matcher will reveal the right match for everything from chocolate brownies (oloroso sherry) to dark chocolate mousse (liqueur muscat or pink champagne).
When it comes to bars of the stuff, she’s equally helpful. Natalie firmly believes that the creamy flavours of chocolate go best with sweet, full-bodied, high-alcohol wines. So it’s an Italian amarone with your squares of bittersweet chocolate or a Hungarian tokaji with milk chocolate.
If chocolate is not your valentine’s weakness, fear not because Natalie’s website will also tell you what goes with
anything from asparagus to zucchini. Chocolate’s most popular valentine partner is probably flowers rather than
wine, but if you’ve left everything this late then the best bunches may have already sold out. Instead, why not give the one you love a small rose bush? Then you can attach a cheesy card about how it will "continue to grow like our love."
Alternatively, live by the very sound rule that you only give flowers when they are not expected and when you haven’t
done anything wrong. You’d better get a gift instead. Here again, there are some sound pointers on what to buy. For her this means nothing with a plug on it, nothing that relates to the home or cleaning and nothing that you want. Sadly, this usually includes saucy red lingerie and that signed photo of Tony Lockett with his greyhounds. Whatever it is, make sure it comes in folded tissue paper and is then placed in a smart box that is tied with ribbon.
For him? Maybe it’s just me, but isn’t a year’s subscription to Bacon Busters just about the most perfect present any bloke could get? I mean, what could be better than four issues packed with nothing but pig hunting. Well, other than some sexy red lingerie, a bottle of sweet nutty sherry and some brownies. Alternatively, you could just take our
most important piece of advice and try and book somewhere for dinner on Thursday night – now!
Metro News
March 23, 2010
By Miranda Minassian
Whether you are looking to impress your next date, to be the wine expert in the family or for a serious career change, Ottawa’s Algonquin College has you covered.
The college’s reputable Sommelier Certificate Program was initially developed in response to an increased demand for properly trained wine professionals.
Enrico DeFrancesco, the academic co-ordinator of the Algonquin sommelier program, says that studying wine is no longer the pretentious act it once was.
“It is wine education done in a fun learning environment, not done in an aggressive manner,” he said. “We make leaning about wine fun and interactive — half the time in lecture and half the time tasting.”
While the program’s main goal is to supply restaurants with qualified sommeliers to engineer wine lists, a number of different employment options are available to graduates.
“Students go on to be product consultants with the LCBO, wine representatives, vineyard management, wine authors or reviewers,” said DeFrancesco. “If people are interested in becoming a winemaker, the option is there to continue their education in Niagara.”
No one knows what following an interest can lead to better that graduate Debbi Trenholm. While working in the high-tech sector, Trenholm’s keenness for wine led her to taking a single wine class at Algonquin.
“Over the next two years, I took all the classes and graduated,” she said.
Trenholm now combines her business background with her love of wine as president of her own wine marketing business, Savvy Company. Savvy employs 11 accredited sommeliers — all Algonquin graduates — to contribute to the various aspects of the wine business.
“I think we are lucky in Ottawa, to have a sommelier program of this calibre,” said Trenholm. “If it wasn’t for the course, I wouldn’t have my business.”
Among the course’s other well-known graduates is Ottawa restaurateur Stephen Beckta, the man responsible for Beckta Dining and Wine and the newly opened ByWard attraction, Play.
Going high-tech with her education, Natalie MacLean created the number one wine app on iTunes. The application lists food and drink pairings, wine reviews, glossary terms and a winery directory.
Algonquin College was the first college in Ontario to offer the certificate sommelier program, and is still one of only three colleges that offer the course.
Metro News
April 10, 2008
By Judy Creighton
The Metro News published the same story as the London Free Press.
Metro News (2)
May 2008
By Brian Towie
It’s another very good year for one of the world’s most recognized wine writers.
You’d think that after winning four James Beard Awards for writing pieces about drinks, getting another nod — this year for her presentation When Food Fights With Wine — would be a case of “been there, done that” to Ottawa food and wine journalist Natalie MacLean. Not so, she says, noting that being tapped for the prize recognizing culinary professionals for excellence in their field reaffirms that she’s doing something right.
“Being nominated for a James Beard Award never becomes old hat because the competition is so stiff from writers whom I admire,” says MacLean, a member of the National Capital Sommelier Guild. “It's an honour to be named among them and a reassurance that you're still improving your craft.”
It was an unlikely start in the business for MacLean, even though wine drinking was already a passion she shared with her husband when the couple moved to Ottawa in 1996. The pair would often vacation in wine regions around the world. Her business trips also had a way of gravitating towards viticulture. Working for a computer company in Mountainview, Calif. MacLean would schedule her meetings on Fridays so she could spend the weekend in the Napa Valley.
But it wasn’t until she had her son in November 1998 that MacLean says she considered making her living from her life’s love of imbibing. Suffering from post-partum sleep deprivation, MacLean picked up a food magazine at a grocery check-out counter and noticed there were no articles about wine to accompany its vast number of recipes. She called up the magazine’s editor, who accepted her pitch for a story.
“She asked if I had been published before, and I said yes (praying that she wouldn't ask me to send samples from my high school newspaper). Luckily, she didn't; instead she assigned me a half-page article due in two weeks,” recounts MacLean. “I struggled to write that article more than I labored with the pregnancy since I was now operating on about six brain cells. But the editor was pleased with the result and gave me another assignment.”
It was the beginning of a decade that saw MacLean appear in more than sixty newspapers and magazines across the globe, among them the Chicago Tribune, Reader’s Digest, Chatelaine, Saturday Night and the Sydney Morning Herald, a trophy case worth of culinary journalism awards, including one for her book Red, White and Drunk All Over: A Wine-Soaked Journey From Grape To Glass. She credits her success to a practice for which she has a natural ability:
“Lots of drinking!” she jokes. “Actually, like any professional, it comes down to hard work, attention to detail and persistence. It also helps to be curious (nosy) about other people when you're a writer.”
Natalie decants to Metro:
Where do you like to eat and drink wine in Ottawa?
Juniper, Beckta, Signatures and Baccara
What’s your favourite drink?
My favorite bottle is the one someone else buys. I like pinot noir especially since it's such a versatile wine with food.
What makes great food journalism?
Tell stories about people. There's only so much you can say about food or wine itself. It's what happens when we come together to share them that's interesting.
Miami Herald
March 10, 2008
By Fred Tasker
Wine fans, please permit me a small brag. Writing for Epicurious, the web site of Bon Appetit and Gourmet magazines, wine author/lecturer Natalie MacLean lists my wine page, miamiherald.com/wine, as one of the top 15 in the nation.
MacLean is the author of a wine book – Red, White and Drunk All Over – and has won four James Beard Foundation Journalism Awards for her writing.
You can checkout her really great website at www.nataliemaclean.com
Milwaukee Journal Sentinel
November 3, 2006
By Kathy Flanigan
You call it fall but Brian Rosen knows this time of year as red wine season.
"Last night, I'm not ashamed to say, I had two bottles of red wine. If it was two months earlier, it could have just as easily been a Gewurztraiminer or a Riesling," said the 36-year-old Rosen, who shared the bounty with three others.
Rosen, owner of Sam's Wines and Spirits, a longtime family business in Chicago and its suburbs, knows wines. He also knows the Midwest weather. Like Rosen, for a lot of us here, the turning leaves signal more than winter is on the way. It means it's time to switch out the bottles in the wine rack.
Fall is when many quit buying lighter, fruit-flavored Sauvignon Blancs in favor of smooth Pinot Noirs and spicy Zinfandels, much like you might trade an icy lemonade for a warming pumpkin latte. Science can't explain it but those in the wine business have theories.
"White wines have become synonymous with barbecuing," Rosen said. "Red wines, on the contrary, are heartier. As the cold gets around the Midwest, a red wine, a fuller wine, gives you that warmth, that internal heat that people kind of look for when winter comes."
With the first frost, Rosen said, "there is a mental switchover."
Indeed there is. ACNielsen studies consumer sales among Milwaukee supermarkets. The marketing researcher found that the cooler the weather in Milwaukee, the more consumers spend on red table wine. In 2005, red wine sales rose from 42% of sales of all table wines in August to 45% in September. They peaked at 47% in March and dropped again in April. By June, red wine sales were at 42% again.
Natalie MacLean, who wrote Red, White, and Drunk All Over, says she pulls out her bulky sweaters and beefy red wines about the same time.
"That's not to say you can't drink lighter wines in the winter, but if you're looking for wine and food pairings that work based on weight, taste and strength of flavor, it makes sense to drink something more robust as the temperature dips," she said.
"Perhaps it's also because robust wines are more alcoholic, and therefore warm us up faster and longer than lighter, lower-alcohol wines," MacLean wrote in an e-mail. "It's like the difference between a fur coat and a shawl; which would you turn to when there's three feet of snow on the ground?"
Milwaukee Journal Sentinel (2)
By Anne Schamberg
That ever-puzzling question of what wine to drink with a chocolate doughnut or two is settled at www.nataliemaclean.com/matcher, where you will find an easy-to-use tool that pairs wines with just about any dish from chicken-feta tostadas to Jell-O.
At this award-winning site you also can sign up for Nat Decants, sommelier Natalie MacLean's free monthly newsletter. And you can access her basic-level wine glossary.
But to end the suspense - and tossing coffee aside - the beverage for chocolate doughnuts is either a Banyuls, which is a fortified wine from southern France, or a tawny port.
Natalie MacLean is author of "Red, White, and Drink All Over: A Wine-Soaked Journey from Grape to Glass," which includes in-depth discussion of matching food and wine, as well as a tour of wine cellars and vineyards around the world.
Milwaukee Journal Sentinel (3)
January 23, 2009
By Kathy Flanigan
Several years ago I organized a wine tasting night, hoping to take advantage of my neighbor's expertise in that area.
Everyone brought a bottle of red wine, each one wrapped in a brown paper bag so we could taste without being influenced by the label or price.
The least expensive bottle on the table, a California Zinfandel, won raves. It surprised those of us who splurged on a $20 bottle - about twice the price of the winner - thinking that more expensive meant better quality.
That's only one of a few good reasons wine tastings exist.
Milwaukee native Michael Dorf recently opened the posh City Winery in New York, a fully operational winery with two wine bars, a cheese bar, restaurant and performance venue. Dorf thinks the best wine tastings come when the winemaker is available to show off a little bit and let you know exactly how the wine was made.
Barring that, "an expert of some kind, a great sommelier, a collector or someone who can offer some insight into wine can often put into words something that is very difficult to articulate," said Dorf, who started the Knitting Factory music club in the East Village (he left that in 2002) and opened City Winery on New Year's Eve.
Wine tastings are one of the best and least expensive ways to learn about wine, said Natalie MacLean, author of the Web site www.nataliemaclean.com and the book "Red, White, and Drunk All Over."
"It's only by comparing wines side by side that their differences in aromas and flavors jump out at you," MacLean wrote in an e-mail. "Opening this many bottles at home would be expensive, not to mention inebriating."
Wine tastings can run the gamut from informal - Whole Foods dispenses glasses of wine from what looks like a vending machine - to fancy, such as next month's benefit at the Milwaukee County Zoo.
Take advantage of all of them, said Gary Vaynerchuk, the man behind the video wine blog at tv.winelibrary.com.
"This is your absolute low-cost entry to explore," said Vaynerchuk, who has hosted tastings for the likes of Ellen DeGeneres and Conan O'Brien. If you're heading to a large wine-tasting event, his No. 1 tip is to walk the room before deciding where to begin. That way you can try something new while your palate is clear.
"Most people go to the most expensive wine first," Vaynerchuk said. Try unfamiliar varietals instead. For instance, if you always drink Chardonnay, try a Gewurztraminer, or if you're a fan of Cabernets, sip a Malbec.
He recommends that tasters always spit out excess wine to keep from getting "blitzkrieged."
If spitting is a problem for you, head to any of the tastings at Balzac Wine Bar, 1716 N. Arlington Place. The bar plans to start them up again when the patio opens, said general manager Pete Brassert.
"We teach people how to spit. That's one of the first things we teach," Brassert said.
Minneapolis Star Tribune
March 22, 2008
By Bill Ward
• Men stay in their comfort zones; women are more adventurous.
• Women shop for communal gatherings, men for themselves.
• Men are geared toward impressing, women toward pleasing.
• Women buy wine for the short term (sharing), men for the long term (hoarding).
• Men buy on the basis of testimonials from experts, women on tips from friends and merchants.
• Women order wine by the glass at restaurants; men order bottles.
It started back in, well, the Garden of Eden.
In the beginning, it was Eve, inquisitive and experimental, who first sampled a "forbidden" fruit. And once she gave it history's first 90-point rating, the pedigree-oriented Adam just had to have some for himself.
Then and there, the lines of demarcation between the two genders' approaches to fruit products began to be drawn. They exist to this day.
"Men approach wine more analytically and women more holistically," said Natalie MacLean, wine-book author and purveyor of the website www.nataliemaclean.com. "Men are far more focused on the scores and women on the stories behind the wines."
The differences come into stark view at wine stores, where "shelf talkers," those slips of paper touting the wines, fall into two distinct categories: critics' scores vs. food-pairing and experiential notes.
"Men will come in and say 'I was reading about this wine in the Wine Spectator or Robert Parker,'" said Kristen Kowalski, owner of the Wine Market stores in Mendota Heights and Woodbury. "Women will want something they've seen on the Food Network, paired with a recipe. Or they'll ask for something they had on vacation, or at a restaurant.
"Women want to buy a wine that everybody likes. They will be more drawn to my shelf talker that says 'perfect for a book club.'"
These tendencies are especially prevalent in the way men and women shop for wine in a store or order it in a restaurant. Even though they have been proven to have better palates than men, women are much more likely to seek help when selecting wine, while guys ... well, we all know how they are about asking for directions.
Men also are more prone to act as though they know more about wine than they really do. A recent British study found that 22 percent of men embellish their expertise to impress peers in restaurants. "Wine is like sex," the wine writer Hugh Johnson has famously noted, "in that few men will admit not knowing all about it."
Men are from Napa. Women are from Italy.
It's not as though the wine world is vastly different from other fields. In much the same way that most self-described "Star Trek" geeks and fantasy-football geeks are men who love to immerse themselves in a topic and learn every arcane detail about it, most wine geeks are of the male persuasion.
They feed their hunting-and-gathering instincts by boning up on vintage and ratings charts. Once honed in, they tend not to stray far from their targets, experts say.
"Men seem to find a comfort zone and stay in it," said Kowalski. "They'll say something like 'I drink California cabernet, I always have, I can read the label and understand it, that's what I want.' They tend to be intimidated about venturing into other countries, where they don't understand the labels."
Within that comfort zone, though, men tend to think quantity as well as quality. Although women purchase most of the wine in this country (57 percent in 2006, according to the Adams Wine Handbook), men are more predisposed toward stocking up.
"If there's a particular wine or vintage that they like, men have a slightly stronger instinct to purchase a case of that wine," said France 44 vice president and partner David Anderson. "Women will purchase wine by the case, but it will be assorted wines, half red and half white, or 12 different bottles."
Meanwhile, the knowledge gap is dwindling. Wine classes at Surdyk's and France 44 are split down the middle gender-wise, store officials say. More books are describing and contextualizing wine in nontraditional fashion, including MacLean's "Red, White and Drunk All Over" and Leslie Sbrocco's "Wine for Women."
"It's time to quit talking about wine in terms that nobody can understand," said Sbrocco. "That's why I talk about wines as fabrics -- a great merlot is like drinking cashmere or riesling is like a spring dress -- or as people, like 'This wine is Gérard Depardieu, thick and brooding.'
"It's all about finding a way to communicate with people in a way that makes sense to them. And if numbers make sense to men and wardrobe references make sense for women, that's fine. There is no wrong in wine."
What's in a label? A lot
At the professional level, women have burst through the Riedel-glass ceiling in this longtime bastion of old-boy clubbiness -- as winery owners, winemakers and tastemakers. But the gap between how the genders purchase and consume wine has narrowed little, prompting a lot of marketing directed at women during the last decade. Most notable was a spate of Australian wines with cuddly animals on the labels. U.S. sales of these "critter wines" (led by Yellow Tail and its kangaroo) topped $600 million in 2006, according to A.C. Nielsen.
"Labels sell, let's be honest," said Sara Craft, a rep for local distributor Paustis. "And there are some great labels out there. But I think the furry critter has seen its day, knock on wood."
Others agreed that "critter labels" are on the wane, and that more sophisticated marketing -- stressing the experience of a girlfriends' night out, for example -- has emerged.
But that hardly means that gimmicks, which skirt the line between empowering and patronizing, are going away. Industry giant Beringer is proffering a low-cal chardonnay called White Lie. Local chain Haskell's has an exclusive agreement to carry a French brand dubbed Lulu B. The marketing taglines for "Mad Housewife" wines include "Award thyself" and "The dishes can wait. Dinner be damned." And don't get Kowalski started on the brand Mommy's Time Out.
Meanwhile, those plucky Aussies are back with a new twist, said France 44's Anderson: "Now you see them with wines called Bitch! and Evil. You put them side by side and it says 'Evil Bitch!'"
Again, it's not as though the wine biz has a markedly different marketing approach from other industries.
"I have no problem whatsoever with marketing to women on wine," said Sbrocco. "They do it with shoes, clothes, computers. They market everything to younger people, or African-Americans. Are women and men ever going to buy computers the same way, or cars, or travel packages? No. We are hard-wired differently.
"The point is getting people to understand and appreciate wine and making it fun, as opposed to some old guy with his pinky in the air. It is fermented grape juice, after all."
MoneySense Magazine
December 2008
By Pamela Young
Buy now, drink later
Prices for great wine are soaring. But by ordering tomorrow's best bottles today, you can ensure you'll never go thirsty.
By Pamela Young
If you are passionate about wine, well-supplied with cash, and very, very patient, now may be the right time to stock up on Château Ausone 2005. Ordering this blue-chip Bordeaux on the "futures" market while it is still aging in the barrel will set you back $1,395 a bottle, or $16,740 a case. Of course, you won't be able to collect this robust yet ethereal red at your local liquor store until 2008 — at which point you really should let it mature in a climate-controlled cellar for at least a dozen years before taking your first sip.
Why would any sane person plunk down thousands of dollars for something they won't taste until at least 2020? In many cases, it's because buyers figure they'll never have a chance to sample the most highly prized wines in the world unless they buy early. Demand for the most revered names in viniculture, especially the famed first and second growths of Bordeaux, has soared in recent years, thanks in large part to an influx of newly rich buyers from China and India. Competition for the best of the best is now both fierce and frenetic. In the spring of 2006, when the world's top critics tasted the 2005 Bordeaux vintage en primeur, or while still in the barrel, and proclaimed it an exceptionally good year, prices skyrocketed. While you could have bought a bottle of good but not great Ausone 2004 on the futures market for $395, the futures price for the stellar '05 vintage leaped a thousand dollars higher.
The irony is that the wine futures market began as a way for budget-conscious tipplers to save money. Growing and aging wine ties up capital for years, so wineries have traditionally been willing to give customers a discount if they pay up front, a couple of years before the wine is bottled and shipped. Sometimes the wine turns out to be worth more on the open market when it's released than the price that futures buyers paid. When that happens, the lucky holders of the futures can choose to either take delivery of the wine or sell it back to the agent at a profit, prior to shipping.
Problem is, you can't count on making a profit. While Bordeaux vintages during most of the 1990s yielded handsome profits for those who bought futures, the 1997 crop disappointed. Some buyers of futures in that year wound up paying more for their wine than they would have if they waited and bought their bottles when the vintage was released.
Rather than paying the price of a small car for a case of Ausone 2005, you may want to tiptoe gingerly into the world of wine futures by first trying your luck with more modestly priced Bordeaux labels, which go for as little as $35 a bottle. If you live in Ontario, you can place a futures order for as few as three bottles through the Liquor Control Board of Ontario (LCBO), although in other provinces, especially if you order through a wine club, you're looking at buying at least a half a case — six bottles — and more likely a full case.
Darcy Kelley, an e-business strategist who sits on the board of the Toronto Vintners Club, has dabbled in both the high and low ends of the market. He bought a selection of 1995 Bordeaux second-growth futures for investment purposes 10 years ago. He stores those bottles — and others that he may someday choose to sell at auction — in climate-controlled security at Toronto's Fine Wine Reserve. Kelley estimates that if he sells those wines five or 10 years from now, they will fetch at least three to four times the price he paid for them.
Kelley, though, isn't tempted to repeat his 1995 success by investing in the status-label 2005s, which he thinks are already fully valued. Instead, he confined his 2005 buys to what he calls "drinkers" — wines purchased for his own consumption, at $35 to $55 a bottle, that he will store at home in a refrigerated cellar unit. Kelley's 2005 picks, based on past experience and the critics' en primeur reviews, were d'Angludet ($39), Dauzac ($52) and La Bienfaisance ($36). He is particularly looking forward to the d'Angludet, which Decanter magazine's Steven Spurrier described as a dark, dense, herbaceous offering, redolent of wild violets.
Other experts also believe that you can find the best value in 2005 futures by shopping among moderately priced Bordeaux. Shari Mogk-Edwards, director of sales and purchasing for Vintages, the LCBO's fine wine and premium spirits division, points out that many of the most revered châteaux, including Latour and Margaux, put out second wines priced at a fraction of their flagship offerings. In a year like '05, she says, "from a pure taste perspective the value in the second labels is very, very great."
One good way to find out about promising wine futures is to hang out with other wine lovers. Graeme Harris, a communications executive with a financial services company in Toronto, belongs to the Opimian Society, a national non-profit wine-ordering cooperative with 15,600 active members in chapters across Canada. He was thrilled when his very first futures buy, three cases of Château Cantemerle 1995, was worth so much upon release that he was able to cover about 80% of the cost of the one case he kept by optioning to sell the other two back to the sales agent. But turning a profit isn't Harris's main objective when he buys wine. "Ultimately, wine is like art," he says. "It's something you want to enjoy, not something you're trying to make a fast buck out of."
Best Bets
We've seen these futures — and they work.
We asked Natalie MacLean, one of North America's top wine writers (NatalieMaclean.com), and wine enthusiasts Darcy Kelley (DK) and Graeme Harris (GH) to choose their top picks in 2005 Bordeaux futures. Prices are per bottle, as quoted by the Liquor Control Board of Ontario. Initials beside each choice indicate who made the pick:
Under $50
La Tour Carnet, $49 (NM)
d'Angludet, $39 (DK)
La Croix de Gay, $46 (GH)
$50 to $200
Kirwan, $79 (NM)
Certan de May, $105 (DK)
Nenin, $99 (GH)
$200 to $500
Palmer, $385 (NM)
Cos d'Estournel, $299 (DK & GH)
$500+
Margaux, $995 (NM)
Haut-Brion, $750 (DK)
Pétrus, $1,295 (GH)
Montreal Gazette
March 17, 2008
By Chris Cobb
The Montreal Gazette published the same story as the Ottawa Citizen.
More Magazine
February-March 2008
Top 40 Women
She pulls corks but no punches: If you want the straight goods on good plonk, Natalie MacLean is your gal.
The author of Red, White and Drunk All Over: A Wine-Soaked Journey from Grape to Glass has been named the world's best drink writer at the World Food Media Awards and has won four James Beard Foundation Awards.
Now that's worth toasting!
MSN Live Today
March 11, 2008
By Natalie MacLean
In my book, seven friends come over to my home and we have an informal wine tasting. It's a great excuse to get together and chat about the wines and, as the evening progresses, life in general.
You don't need to be a wine expert to host a tasting, just as you don't need to have a doctorate in English literature to organize a book club. In fact, wine tastings work well for book clubs too, especially if you're discussing a book such as Red, White, and Drunk All Over.
I've posted lots of low-cost wines in the Wine Picks section of the site for those who want a shopping list for their tasting.
1. Invite six to twelve friends—a group size that works well both for the conversation and for dividing a bottle of wine into samples.
2. Set the date and time. Around 7 p.m. or 8 p.m. works as you'll need about two to three hours at most.
3. Select a theme, such as everyone's most memorable bottle, wines from a certain region such as Australian shiraz or something seasonal, such as champagne during the holidays, sweet wines near Valentine's Day, and so on.
4. Determine how much wine you'll serve. A two-ounce pour from eight wines gives everyone a wide sampling without going overboard.
5. Choose finger foods that aren't too spicy or hot. These might overwhelm the wine.
6. On the evening of the tasting, set out the wine glasses, finger foods, bread, glasses of water, spittoons (mugs are fine) and paper and pens.
7. Serve wine in "flights": the first four wines, followed by discussion, and then the second four wines, for example. You may want to keep the bottles in brown bags and number them for a "blind tasting."
8. Sample whites before reds, light wines before full-bodied, and dry before sweet.
9. Encourage everyone to share their thoughts, which can be as simple as whether they like it or what it reminds them of. At the end, have everyone vote on their favorite wines and then reveal their identities.
10. Encourage them to "expectorate" or spit out the wine into their mugs if they choose. Call taxis for those who need one. Set the date for your next tasting.
MSN Smart Money
November 12, 2008
By Kelli Grant
There's no question that warehouse clubs offer great prices -- for some products, they're unbeatable. But in other cases, the urge to save could end up costing you.
As most penny-pinching consumers know, joining a warehouse club can result in great deals on everything from 46-inch flat-screen TVs to 12-packs of chicken-noodle soup. But that doesn't mean every product in the rustic aisles of BJ's, Sam's Club or Costco is a steal.
"You could make the argument that everything in the building is a good deal," says Michael Clayman, the editor of Warehouse Club Focus, a trade publication. Clubs make most of their profits from annual membership fees, which range from $40 to $100. That's one of the reasons why warehouse club markups are just 8% to 13% above wholesale prices, while mainstream retailers charge 25% to 50% more, he says.
But, as Clayman explains, those great prices don't always mean you're getting the best deal. Here are five of the best warehouse club buys and five to steer clear of:
Best buys
Alcohol. Wine, liquor and beer prices can be 35% lower than at supermarkets. The best deals, however, are on high-end bottles.
"Warehouse clubs sell more Bordeaux than fine-wine shops," says Natalie MacLean, the editor of NatDecants.com, a wine education site. Costco recently offered a magnum of Chateau d'Yquem Sauternes 1997 for $500 -- $300 cheaper than the price on WineAccess.com. Bonus: Some states' laws let you buy alcohol without having to pay for a warehouse club membership.
Milk, butter and eggs. In all but a few cases, you can beat warehouse club food prices at supermarkets by combining weekly store sales with manufacturers' coupons. The notable exceptions: milk, butter and eggs, which are at least 20% cheaper at warehouse clubs, says Teri Gault, the founder of The Grocery Game, a shopping Web site. At Sam's Club, for example, a four-box pack of salted butter quarters recently was priced at $8.67. At ShopRite, it was $13.96.
Electronics. More often than not, gadget shoppers will find a better deal at a warehouse club than at mainstream retailers. For instance, BJ's recently beat Amazon.com by $6 on the Olympus FE-340 digital camera. But the real draw is the clubs' generous return policies, which encompass everything from price drops to out-of-warranty glitches, says Jerry Grossman, the editorial director for tech education site DemystifyingDigital.com. Costco accepts electronics returns within 90 days of the purchase, three times longer than Best Buy's policy. Sam's Club permits returns of most computers within six months, with no deadline for other electronics.
Meat. When it comes to the meat at the warehouse club, think: Top-notch butcher-shop quality meets supermarket prices. "It's a home run every time," enthuses Phil Lempert, the founder of Supermarket Guru, a news site. Two fresh racks of lamb (no antibiotics, no hormones) were selling recently for $95 at Costco. The same quality and quantity of meat was $120 and $135 at iGourmet.com and Lobel's of New York, respectively.
Prescription medications. Warehouse clubs routinely charge 50% less than local pharmacy chains and may even beat the $4-a-month offerings at superstores such as Wal-Mart and Target, says Gabriel Levitt, the vice president of research for pharmacy-rating site PharmacyChecker.com.
Recently, you could buy 100 pills of generic blood-pressure medication Lisinopril (20 milligrams) and pay $9.53 at Costco or $10 at Sam's Club -- much less than Drugstore.com's $35.54. Better yet, most clubs even allow nonmembers to fill prescriptions at the pharmacy in person or online.
Designer clothing. Forget about finding the latest styles from the pages of Vogue. Most designers generate warehouse-only lines. The rare piece from mainstream labels graced the runways years ago.
"Pricewise, it's not bad, but you'd get the same deals at a Marshalls or TJ Maxx without paying to get in," says Kathryn Finney, the founder of The Budget Fashionista, a frugal-shopping site.
Items that won't get fully used. If you end up throwing out half of that four-pound can of tuna or still have a full tube of sunscreen after the three-pack expires, you didn't get a good deal.
"If you have 10 kids, of course, you're going to be able to eat all of a warehouse food (you buy) before it goes bad," says Tawra Kellam, the editor of frugal-living site Living on a Dime. "But that's not realistic for the average family."
Frozen foods. Lempert recently scored a free frozen pizza from a neighbor, who had returned home from a warehouse club with a 12-pack that wouldn't fit in her freezer. "You will save money on frozen goods," he says, "but most people don't have room to store them." Unless you plan to eat that 115-count of Gorton's fish sticks or five-quart bucket of ice cream in one sitting, think twice before letting it take up freezer space.
Paper goods. Save your paper plate, paper towel and napkin purchases for the supermarket. "Toilet paper is extremely expensive at the warehouse club," says Mary Hunt, the founder of money management site Debt-Proof Living. At Sam's Club, a 36-pack of Charmin Ultra was $18.32, or 51 cents a roll. A 24-pack on sale for $9.99 at Safeway works out to 42 cents per roll -- and is easier to store.
Gasoline. When gas prices are falling, deals at the warehouse club pumps are great. But when prices are rising, be more cautious, warns Clayman, of Warehouse Club Focus. The same quick supply turnaround that allows clubs to pass along lower prices can backfire. Clubs may temporarily have higher prices than surrounding stations. Compare prices before you pull up to the pump.
MSNBC
May 1, 2008
By Natalie MacLean
How to thank Mom for all those kisses, compliments and band-aids? Try a great bottle of wine with Mother’s Day brunch or dinner. As a mother myself now, I call my glass of wine at 5 p.m. “Mommy’s little helper.” Here’s to you Mom!
Veuve Clicquot Non Vintage Champagne, France
(about $45)
Many of the famous Champagnes of France bear the names of the young women or “veuves” (widows) who ran these companies at the turn of the century when their husbands died in the war or due to illness. Bollinger, Pommery and Perrier-Laurent are just a few of their names, but perhaps the most famous of all is Barbe-Nicole Clicquot Ponsardin of Veuve Clicquot. She was a brilliant marketer and a tough old bird when it came to negoting export deals. This bubbly has alluring aromas ripe pears and hazelnuts, with a long toasty finish.
Meaty Recipe Pairing:
http://www.epicurious.com/recipes/food/views/234261
Ham, Leek, and Three-Cheese Quiche
The refreshing acidity in the bubbly cuts through the rich and creamy quiche for a perfect brunch combo.
Meatless Recipe Pairing:
http://www.epicurious.com/recipes/food/views/238445
Asparagus with Morels and Tarragon
The effersence in the champagne matches the exuberant flavors in this juicy green, eternally spring dish.
Peter Lehmann 2007 Eden Valley Riesling, Australia
(about $16)
Peter Lehmann is not only famous for his wines, but also for the artwork on his bottle labels. Often these feature women, such as the Queen of Clubs, who represents the gamble that Lehmann and fellow winemakers took in the 1970s to establish the Australian wine industry. An art student at the University of Adelaide, Tom Buchanan, tried to capture the intensity and youthfulness of this Riesling in his portrait of the young woman on the label. The wine has vibrant floral and citrus aromas, a product of the cool climate in the Eden Valley. A fresh, clean white that’s just the way mother wanted us turned out for special occasions.
Meaty Recipe Pairing:
http://www.epicurious.com/recipes/food/views/104330
Riesling-Poached Trout with Thyme
It’s easy to match wine to a dish that’s been prepared with is: both share refreshing lime notes.
Meatless Recipe Pairing:
http://www.epicurious.com/recipes/food/views/105276
Caesar Salad with Herbed Croutons
The zesty riesling is a terrific complement to the creamy, tangy flavors of this classic salad.
Gallo Family Vineyards Sonoma Reserve 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma, California
(about $15)
Gallo’s image as a jug wine is changing quickly, not only with terrific wines such as this one, but also with a new generation of the family taking the helm. Foremost among them is winemaker Gina Gallo, who has crafted a delicious wine at a great price. Gina, who took the renowned viticulture program at UC Davis, also learned her craft from her grandfather Julio, who started the business in 1933. This full-bodied number is bursting with aromas of dark plums, blackberries and spice.
Meaty Recipe Pairing:
http://www.epicurious.com/recipes/food/views/109391
Roast Racks of Lamb with New Potatoes and Mint Pesto
Cabernet sauvignon is a classic match with lamb because of its complementary dark berry and mint aromas.
Meatless Recipe Pairing:
http://www.epicurious.com/recipes/food/views/241753
Vegetarian Cassoulet
This crunchy, rustic cassoulet needs the full-bodied black fruit flavors in the cabernet.
Terramater 2004 Zinfandel Shiraz, Maipo Valley, Chile
(about $11)
Terramater means “Mother Earth,” and this wine marries the distinctive character of Chilean soil with grapes that are more associated with California (Zinafandel) and Australia (Shiraz). As always, mother knows what works together best. This wine has delicious flavors of blackberries, spice and smoke. It reminds me of the advice my own mother used to give me: firm but warm.
Meaty Recipe Pairing:
http://www.epicurious.com/recipes/food/views/108679
Slow-Braised Short Ribs, Lardons, and Baby Vegetables
The Zinfandel-Shiraz combination matches the smoky sweet flavors of the ribs.
Meatless Recipe Pairing:
http://www.epicurious.com/recipes/food/views/108167
Grilled Pizza Margherita
Both Zinfandel and Shiraz often make for great pizza wines because they are packed with berry flavors but not the mouth-drying tannins in a cabernet.
Merry Edwards Cuvee Meredith 2005 Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley, Sonoma, California
(about $60)
Merry Edwards, the winemaker and owner of this eponymous winery, is a pioneer in the California wine industry. In 1973, Edwards, whose winemaking career now spans 33 years, was one of the first women to earn a masters degree in food science with an emphasis on enology at the renowned viticulture school at U.C Davis. Her experience and training shows in this wine, which has aromas of black raspberries and blackberries. Edwards aged it in 73 percent new French oak, adding balance and structure. It should age gracefully for 15 years.
Meaty Recipe Pairing:
http://www.epicurious.com/recipes/food/views/102651
Salmon with Mushroom Orzo and Red Wine Sauce
Salmon and pinot noir is a classic match in both flavor and texture.
Meatless Recipe Pairing:
http://www.epicurious.com/recipes/food/views/235854
Truffled Red Wine Risotto with Parmesan Broth
The silky and earthy flavors in the risotto are echoed in the wine.
Napa Valley Register
July 13, 2007
By Jack Heeger
Natalie MacLean, who has written a book, “Red, White and Drunk All Over: A Wine-Soaked Journey from Grape to Glass,” offers a ways to spot a wine snob but admonishes that not all wine snobs are alike and has divided them into some subspecies.
The “borus nonshutuputus” who, “when nosing the wine, will scent not only the region and winery, but also what the vintner and his wife were arguing about on the day the grapes were harvested.”
There’s the “borus technotalkatus, who is similar, but uses such phrases as “carbonic masceration,” while the most frequently heard call of the “collectorosa completeca” is “I own that wine, too.”
The “healthus maniacutus” keeps “a list of various wines’ resveratrol levels in his breast pocket. He’s recalculated his expected lifespan based on his reduced risk of heart disease from drinking 1.5 glasses of wine daily.”
For complete descriptions, go to Natalie’s Web site at www.nataliemaclean.com.
(There must be a lot of wine snobs or wannabes out there. Typing “wine snob” in Google showed 873,000 sites, including one that says it will teach you how to be a wine, coffee, tea or beer snob.)
Napa Valley Register (2)
August 25, 2007
By Jack Heeger
Trying to master the terminology of Champagne is like learning an entirely new language.
What does brut mean? Is that different from brut nature? What’s the difference between Spumonte and Champagne? What do the little tiny initials on a Champagne label, like NM, mean?
Let’s take a look.
The word Champagne can be used only on sparkling wine that comes from the Champagne region in France. In 1891 the Treaty of Madrid was signed, declaring that only wines made in that region could legally be called Champagne, and this was later reaffirmed in the Treaty of Versailles. There are a few U.S. producers who use “Champagne” on their labels, because the U.S. never signed that treaty. The Treaty of Versailles was signed in 1919, in the midst of Prohibition, and apparently lawmakers didn’t feel signing an agreement like that was necessary, thus allowing some producers to take advantage of the loophole.
As a result the wine is known elsewhere by different names. In Italy it’s Prosecco or Spumonte, in Spain it’s known as Cava, in Germany it’s called sekt, and in the U. S. we know it as sparkling wine. But inside the bottle, it’s the same basic product, although the quality range is significant. It can cost from $2 or so up to a few hundred dollars for a current release, and much more for past releases.
The French word for dry is “sec,” but if you see “sec” on a bottle of Champagne, the wine inside is likely to be on the sweeter side. Confusing?
There are many variations on the amounts of residual sugar in Champagne. “Brut nature” is the driest, with fewer than 3 grams of residual sugar per liter, and next is “extra brut” with residual sugar levels of 0 to 6 grams per liter.
“Brut,” one of the most popular styles, has less than 15 grams per liter, then comes “extra dry,” at 12 to 20 grams, “dry” or “sec” at 17 to 35 grams, “demi sec,” at 33 to 50 grams, and finally, the sweetest, “doux,” at more than 50 grams.
You’ll often see “blanc de blancs” on a label, which means the Champagne in that bottle was made entirely from chardonnay grapes, or “blanc de noirs,” indicating that it was made from either pinot noir or pinot meunier grapes, although the juice was taken from the skins very quickly. There are some “rosé” Champagnes, which can be made from all three grapes, but the color obviously comes from the reds.
Most Champagnes are non-vintage, meaning that they a blend, or “cuvee,” from wines of different vintages, usually at least three but often more. This allows the “chef du caves,” or cellarmaster and winemaker, more flexibility in choosing wines to create a consistent product. But occasionally you’ll see “vintage Champagne” on the label, which indicates all the juice came from the same harvest.
The label also contains much more information: The name of the producer and where it was made, alcoholic content, bottle volume and the type of producer. The latter can become complicated, because there are several producer types, which are identified by initials in tiny print, followed by a number which identifies the brand owner.
NM signifies it’s a Négociant Manipulant, or a firm or person who buys grapes or juice or finished wine and makes Champagne on its premises.
RM is a Récoltant Manipulant who grows grapes and produces Champagne from those grapes on its own premises.
RC is a Récoltant Coopérateur who grows grapes as part of a cooperative, then sells the wine.
CM is a Coopérative de Manipulation, a cooperative that makes wine from the grapes of its members.
SR is a Société de Recoltants, a family business that makes wine solely from grapes grown by members of the family.
ND is a Négociant Distributeur, who buys finished Champagne and labels it himself.
MA is a Marque d’Acheteur. The producer’s name appears on the label, but the brand name belongs to a restaurant, wine shop or other re-seller — in other words, a private brand.
R is a Récoltant, a grower whose grapes are made into Champagne by someone else, usually a Négociant Manipulant who then returns the bottled wine to the grower.
The bottom line, though, is to find a Champagne or sparkling wine that you like, pop the cork and enjoy it. No need for a special occasion — sparkling wine is good anytime. Natalie MacLean, a wine writer whose Web site, nataliemaclean.com, features a Food & Wine Matcher pairing guide, indicates that sparkling wine can go with just about anything — even potato chips and nachos.
Napa Valley Register (3)
February 29, 2008
By Jack Heeger
Many people rely heavily on the information on wine labels to help them in making a purchasing decision, but what if the consumer is sight-impaired?
An item on wine writer Natalie MacLean’s Web site calls attention to several producers who are using Braille on their labels to feature the winemaker, appellation, name of the wine, vintage and whether the wine is red or white.
Interestingly, none of the wineries mentioned are in the U.S.
The senses of sight, smell and taste all play a role in wine tasting, but this adds another dimension — touch.
MacLean also said that a blind winemaker in Australia has translated the Oxford Companion to Wine into Braille.
(Is this what’s meant by a “feel good” wine?)
NatalieMacLean.com
50 Ways to Keep Your Lover this Valentine’s Day
Find wines to match 50 chocolate dishes at www.NatalieMacLean.com
“Want to seduce someone this Valentine’s Day?” asks Natalie MacLean, author of Red, White and Drunk All Over: A Wine-Soaked Journey from Grape to Glass. “Just share a glass of wine (or three) with your sweetheart.”
“Wine is liquid sensuality: Its heady bouquet stimulates the appetite and its velvet caress soothes that desire,” she observes. “What other drink is described as both ‘voluptuous’ and ‘muscular’? And when you pair wine with the mouth-coating luxury of chocolate, the combination is impossible to resist.”
The creamy flavors of chocolate go best with sweet, full-bodied, high-alcohol wines, MacLean notes. She suggests wines to complement 50 chocolate dishes in her online matching tool at www.nataliemaclean.com/matcher. Just click on “desserts” to find pairings for chocolate mud pie to chocolate cheesecake.
Natalie’s top 10 wine and chocolate matches:
1. Dark Chocolate and Banyuls, France
2. Chocolate-Covered Biscotti and Recioto Della Valpolicella, Italy
3. Chocolate-Orange Cake and Liqueur Muscat, Australia
4. Chocolate with Nuts and Tawny Port, Portugal
5. Milk Chocolate and Tokaji, Hungary
6. Bittersweet Chocolate and Amarone, Italy
7. Chocolate-Dipped Fruit and Icewine, Canada
8. Chocolate Ganache Truffles and Sauternes, France
9. Chocolate Raspberry Cheesecake and Framboise, California
10. Chocolate Hearts with Cream Filling and Cream Sherry, Spain
Natalie’s online food-and-wine matcher doesn’t just focus on chocolate. The interactive tool has thousands of wines to pair with any dish: meat, pasta, seafood, vegetarian fare, pizza, eggs, cheese and dessert. You simply choose the food or wine from a drop-down menu to get the pairing suggestions. There are also lots of recipes for those planning a romantic meal. The matcher is updated regularly with new dishes and wines from the 83,000-plus readers who subscribe to Natalie’s free e-newsletter, which offers tips on how to buy, cellar and serve wine.
In Red, White and Drunk All Over, Natalie discusses how to match food and wine in greater depth, including wines for a multi-course dinner. There’s also a chapter with advice on pairing wine with five challenging foods: chocolate, cheese, spicy dishes, vegetables and fast food. Got a dish or a wine to stump Natalie? Just e-mail her via her web site and she’ll suggest a match for you.
- 30 -
Natalie MacLean has won four James Beard Journalism Awards, including the MFK Fisher Distinguished Writing Award. Rex Pickett, author of Sideways, says that Natalie “writes about wine with a sensuous obsession,” and is “laugh-out-loud funny.” Eric Asimov of the New York Times calls Natalie’s approach “a winning formula,” describing her as “the disarming Everywoman … she loves wine, loves drinking.” And the Financial Times of London observes: “Natalie MacLean is a new force in the wine writing world—a feisty North American answer to Hugh Johnson and Jancis Robinson.”
NatalieMacLean.com
A River of Wine Runs Through It
By Natalie MacLean
The trouble with moderation is that it's hard to get excited about it. Until now. After September 11, moderation seems to be rarer than a California cult cabernet. Finding the moderate and the civilized in everyday life has become all the rage.
Few things embody these values more than wine, and the food we eat with it. A river of wine flows through most of human history -- from the ancient clay jugs found buried beside the Nile to the glass of cabernet accidentally tipped over while visiting web sites about ancient Egypt. In the countries that make it, wine is part of the national customs, culture, literature, arts, religion, science, geography and trade.
As Californian vintner Robert Mondavi once noted: "Wine has been with us since the beginning of civilization. It's the temperate, civilized, sacred and romantic mealtime beverage recommended in the Bible. Wine in moderation is an integral part of our heritage, and of a gracious way of life." And it's also one of the last true things we consume. Despite all the genetic engineering of our food these days, wine remains deeply connected with the land.
The dinner table itself is a symbol of modern unity and tolerance. Throughout history, a person's position at the dinner table reflected the social hierarchy: the best seats -- and best food and wine - went to those with the most power. (In contrast, King Arthur's court stood - or sat - for equality, since the knights gathered at a round table.) Today, some of the best conversations happen at the table, and some of the most brilliant ideas are conceived there. Just as importantly, eating and drinking together helps us to understand people from other cultures through their wine and cuisine.
Wine has long been a closer companion to food than has hard liquor or beer. The high alcohol content of hard liquor overwhelms food - the reason it's often consumed on its own. (To paraphrase, "Wine is fine, but liquor is quicker.") Beer, though moderate in alcohol, has a narrower range of complementary aromas and flavours than wine.
Food and wine matching came into vogue in the late 1800s, when French dinner hosts started serving with multiple courses and tried matching each with a different wine to heighten the gastronomic experience. Classic matches such as foie gras and sauternes and Stilton and port soon emerged. Today, the fashion is to break the rules, but wine remains the best complement to food.
Matching food and wine calls into play all of the senses, one of the few activities that connects our minds to our stomachs - and livers. And in an age of passive entertainment, it's the only pleasure we truly consume. Eating and drinking is something we need to do, unlike attending the theatre, ballet or opera -- but when we infuse an animal need with camaraderie and creativity, we move from sustenance to cuisine. It becomes part of us, and we turn it into blood, bone and gesture, as Rilke would say. It reminds us of how fleeting life is -- no record of the food, wine or conversation is left, only memory.
Even the rituals of food and wine, such as the etiquette of which fork and knife to use or the passing of a decanter of port clockwise around the dinner table, require civility and a nod to those present, those who sat before us and those who will sit when we are gone. Fine food and wine enable us feel our capacity for joy and make us want to share that feeling with others. (Who can imagine scarfing down a pan-seared foie gras and a bottle of Chateau d'Yquem, alone?)
Wine is as cerebral as it is sensual: it begs for appreciation, reflection and conversation. Most of its character is in the aroma, connecting to the areas of the brain responsible for memory and emotion. Drinking wine is, therefore, a full-brain exercise (until it becomes a foggy-brained exercise).
The complexity of wine is also an exercise in memory. Take all the wine-producing countries from both Old and New Worlds. Layer the sub-regions, appellations and quality designations of thousands of wineries and châteaux, all of which have different winemaking methods that vary according to climate every year. Throw in hundreds of grape varieties, blends and styles, including red, white, rosé, sparkling, fortified, botrytized, late harvest, ice wine and others: wines to drink before, during and after the meal, wines for celebration (champagne) and for reflection (port). Then there are aspects such as the chemistry of aging wine, decanting it and matching it with food.
The complexity of wine's charms are why many of our great literary minds - Plato, Aristophanes, Baudelaire, Byron, Dickens, Joyce, Hardy, Tolstoy - have written more about wine than about any other type of alcohol. So powerfully can wine sharpen our feeling for life that we're also driven to quantify those feelings: we rate wine, but not orange juice; and we analyze the differences soil and climate make to wine, but no one cares where the cabbage was grown.
That complexity makes some people distain those so-called experts, "wine snobs." True, some wine lovers have an unfortunately low emotional intelligence quotient. And yet we don't dislike those who know a lot about fly fishing, for example -- we call them enthusiasts, not snobs.
But pleasure became the shadow of safety, pushed to the back of our minds when we watched the fire fighters and volunteers work their way through the rubble of the World Trade Centre Towers. In fact, September 11 caused many people re-evaluate what was important in their lives -- and what was not. And many in the hospitality industry wondered if their work still had meaning. After all, weren't wine and food now trivial?
But wine and food remain an important expression of western culture. Making wine is a western industry; drinking wine, a western habit. For instance, not one of the countries that America considers a sponsor of terrorism produces wine. Iran doesn't, and nor do Iraq, Syria, Libya, North Korea, Cuba and the Sudan. Nor do the countries where UN peacekeeping forces are stationed, such as central Africa and the Western Sahara.
So are only countries that make and drink wine civilized? Certainly not. Some don't produce wine because their climate isn't suitable, and others don't because their religious convictions don't allow it. And although practising Muslims don't drink wine because the Koran considers it a "satanic device," the devout are rewarded with it in the afterlife: in paradise there are "rivers of wine, a delight to those who drink." In fact, it's believed that Muslim alchemists first developed the technique of distillation, and later taught it to Spanish explorers. The techniques were preserved in monasteries through the Middle Ages, like much of Europe's literature and culture from that time.
But the first known civilizing influence of wine goes back to the third millennium BCE: the Sumerian epic poem Gilgamesh tells of Enkidu, a wild man, who became civilized when a temple whore gave him wine to drink. The god of wine -- Dionysus for the Greeks and Bacchus for the Romans -- was also part of ancient myth. Dionysus, like Christ, was said to be the son of an immortal god (Zeus) and a human woman (Semele); and he, Bacchus and Christ are all symbolized by the vine, which dies each winter and is reborn the next spring. In fact, in the bible Christ says "I am the true vine."
Wine's ability to civilize as well as its high price have also made it the drink of power, from the Egyptian pharaohs to European royalty. (Traditionally, peasants drank beer and hard liquor - and even today, if politicians want to portray themselves as "of the people," they share a pint in a pub with working stiffs rather than sipping an aristocratic glass of wine.)
In the New World, European explorers used hard liquor to colonize the new land instead of sharing wine to civilize it. (The name Manhattan comes from the Indian word manahactanienk meaning island of general intoxication.) Later, Thomas Jefferson -- who cultivated French vines at his Virginia home -- hoped that wine, the drink of moderation, would replace whiskey as the preferred drink of America. He commented that: "No nation is drunken where wine is cheap; and none sober, where the dearness of wine substitutes ardent spirits as the common beverage." The advocates of Prohibition ignored that wisdom to their eventual detriment a hundred years later, when they dumped wine into the same category as all demon drink.
And consider the most famous winemaking country, France, and the surprisingly important role that wine played in the second World War. According to Wine and War, by Don and Petie Kladstrup, Hitler recognized the value of French wine as plunder -- even though he considered it "vulgar vinegar." (That should have been the first tip-off about the Führer's character. As food writer A.J. Liebling has noted: "No sane man can afford to dispense with debilitating pleasures; and no ascetic can be considered reliably sane. Hitler was the archetype of the abstemious man. When the other Germans saw him drink water in the beer hall they should have known that this man was not to be trusted.")
After their invasion, German "wine merchants in uniform" (or Weinführers , as the French called them) went out to the French wine regions to buy wine at arbitrarily low prices, and then sold it at a premium on the international market to fund the Third Reich's war machine. But many French winemakers resisted occupation by hiding their greatest wines in their cellars. At Domaine Drouhin, for example, the proprietor's eight-year-old son collected spiders to spin webs in front of the fake cellar wall his father had built to hide the good stuff. And Parisian carpet-cleaners donated the dust from beating rugs to restaurant owners, who used it to make bottles of young wine look older for the Germans.
Many vintners mislabelled their wines, and some went a step further: one Burgundian négotiant supplied the Germans with what they thought was gin -- but was really eau-de-Santenay, a powerful purgative. In other acts of vinous insurrection, Loire grape grower Jean Monmousseaux smuggled Resistance leaders through German checkpoints in empty wine barrels. The owner of Chateau Pichon-Lalande, May-Elaine de Lencquesaing, hid two Jewish families in her labyrinthine cellar while Germans occupied the château upstairs.
There were collaborators too, though. The Bordeaux wine merchant Louis Eschenhauer increased his fortune by vigorously supporting the wine trade with the Nazis. And most vintners continued to make wine during the occupation, rather than uprooting their vines and smashing their barrels so that the Nazis couldn't profit from them - a scorched vineyard policy of sorts. But in 1939, the year World War II began, even Mother Nature seemed to join the Resistance: the vintage was terrible. (That was the wine that the French tried most to unload on the Germans.) By contrast, 1945, the year of the victory, was a spectator vintage.
What about the Germans' own wine? After the war, the country's rieslings evolved from sweet liebfraumilch (think Blue Nun and Black Tower), into drier, more elegant wines that were more food-friendly. In Italy, chianti -- whose empty bottles were best known as candle holders -- got a makeover with the rise of Super Tuscans. It was the same with South Africa: after apartheid was abolished, its wines leapt forward in quality. And since the fall of the Iron Curtain, Hungarian and Romanian wines have also become increasingly well made.
Drinking wine for world peace is the sort of theory that comes from - well, drinking too much wine. But supporting our own hospitality industry - whether as a sommelier, a patron or even a wine writer -- has never been more important. Our wine and food culture is still as meaningful as ever: those in the industry are still the bearers of culture and comfort.
As well, wine is a vital part of the economy of any country that produces it, earning billions of dollars in revenue. The industry employs tens of thousands of skilled people, who work in wineries, restaurants and marketing companies as well as in spin-off businesses such as travel and recreation. Even when the economy shifts, the alcohol business is usually one of the least volatile: we drink in good times to celebrate; we drink in bad times to console.
But the bad times after September 11 were different from previous conflicts and recessions. First, there was the "CNN effect": people cocooning in front of their TVs to watch non-stop coverage. That translated to less dining out and more drinking at home: in New York City, retail liquor sales in the final months of 2001 were up 12% over the previous year. And in California, alcohol sales in grocery stores surpassed those in restaurants for the first time in ten years.
White-tablecloth restaurants that cater to business people and tourists are still suffering. But local neighbourhood places that serve comfort food - modestly-priced restaurants and pubs -- are busier than ever. Demographers say that people are staying longer at these places, and ordering stiffer drinks.
Is that a good thing, though? Columbia University's Center for Addiction and Substance Abuse found that four large U.S. cities, including New York, experienced a substantially increased demand for alcohol and drug treatment. Nationally, treatment admissions increased ten to twelve per cent. The Centre is tracking these trends to see if the current surge in drinking will follow the pattern of Oklahoma City, where studies showed that three times as many residents as before required treatment after the 1995 bombing of the federal building there.
The second factor that makes this downturn different from others is the new fear of travel. When people stopped flying in the weeks after the attack, they also stopped travelling to winery tasting rooms. California owners report that sales are now returning to normal - but from visitors within a three-hour drive, rather than from foreign tourists. This hurts small boutique wineries the most, since they depend largely on selling to customers who can't buy their wines at home. Wineries that depend on duty-free sales are feeling the pain too, and not just because fewer people are flying. Drinkers who still travel are reluctant to put wine bottles in their checked luggage, for fear of breakage - but U.S. airlines won't let them take bottles in their carry-on bags any more. So they just don't buy.
Tighter border security is also an issue for Californian winemakers, who often depend on undocumented labourers from Mexico to pick the grapes: some industry analysts estimate that these workers comprise as much as half the workforce. Since few American labourers are willing to tackle such gruelling work, a shortage of Mexicans could cause a dramatic rise in the price of Californian wine.
But the greatest loss for the North American hospitality industry, in both business and human terms, was one of America's most prestigious restaurants -- Windows on the World, situated at the top of the World Trade Center. This restaurant had a cellar of 50,000 bottles, sold more wine than any other in the United States, and its school educated some 15,000 people in wine appreciation.
I remember dining there back in 1999, and can still recall that soaring feeling, looking out at the city sprawled out beneath me in all its light-beaded splendour. For three hours, I was no longer an unsophisticated girl from Canada - I was New York. I drank glassfuls of Château d'Yquem, Latour, Lafite, Margaux and Haut-Brion, all in the same tasting flight -- the generous sommelier kept topping me up. Dining there was one of the high points in my life, an experience I thought I'd remember forever. And now I know I shall never forget.
On the morning of September 11, Michael Lomonaco, the restaurant's executive chef, stopped off briefly in the lobby instead of taking the elevator straight up to his office -- a few minutes' delay that saved his life. But 73 employees, including two sommeliers, were killed. Also dead were those who worked in the cafeterias and food concessions on the less-glamorous concourse level. These workers, often immigrants, only earned $10 per hour -- but many were the sole means of support for their families.
That's why the Windows of Hope Family Relief Fund was established: to provide aid to more than 120 families of the victims, including some 110 dependent children. The Napa Valley Vintners Association pledged $250,000 to this fund; and on October 11, participating restaurants around the world donated 10% of that evening's sales.
Of course, the hospitality industry doesn't have a monopoly on being humane. But it does highlight the fact that wine can teach us important human values. For instance, making wine teaches us to invest in excellence. Vintners pay a premium to buy the best vineyard land so that they can plant on the slope that gets the most sunshine. And they use expensive oak barrels for more nuanced aromas, rather than just tossing in wood chips.
Secondly, making wine teaches us to be patient. Vintners must wait at least seven years before their vines produce mature fruit, and then they have to allow the wine to age in the bottle for several years. They can't rush it to market, and they can't double production by adding more line workers.
Thirdly, wine teaches us to be selective. Vintners prune the vines as they mature, so that by harvest time the remaining grapes are fewer but more concentrated. And when Mother Nature doesn't cooperate, they bottle the wine under a less prestigious label -- rather than dilute a good name.
Every step in the process of making wine is a move towards excellence, and each decision reflects the vintner's willingness not to sacrifice quality for profit. (You can't dress up a bad wine as a good one -- no matter what cute little furry creature you put on the label.)
Fine wine asks us to be more demanding of ourselves: to learn about a subject that is as cerebral as it is sensual, and to share that knowledge with confidence rather than arrogance. As the British poet Thomas Chatterton once said, "What is war and all its joys? Useless mischief, empty noise. What are arms and trophies won? Spangles glittering in the sun. Rosy Bacchus, give me wine -- happiness is only thine!"
Windows of Hope Family Relief Fund
The Windows of Hope Family Relief Fund is a charitable organization, formed to provide aid, funds, health insurance and future scholarships to the families of the victims of the World Trade Center tragedy who worked in the food, beverage and hospitality professions throughout the entire complex. To make a donation, contact: Windows of Hope Family Relief Fund, c/o Berdon LLP, 360 Madison Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Tel: 212-893-3710, fax: 212-893-4367 or visit the web site: http://www.windowsofhope.org
NatalieMacLean.com
A Wine Snob? Pas Moi!
By Natalie MacLean
In the vestibule of my home, the other dinner guests sweep past Sebastian as he clutches his bottle of wine like a talisman to ward off evil spirits—their wines. I have to coax him to join the group in the dining room by telling him about my antique corkscrew. While he's distracted with its mechanics, I whisk his bottle into the kitchen to decant it. Later, as we sit down to dinner, he sniffs suspiciously at my stemware, holding it up to the light to check for spots. Then he clears his palate with several conversation-silencing throat noises while ceremoniously breaking the bread. Sebastian is a wine connoisseur by conviction, a snob by reputation.
We all know a wine snob, but mon Dieu, we'd never admit to being one. It's more fashionably correct to be a champion for wine democracy, waving the banner of "all you need to know about wine is what you like." Threats to snobbery close in on all sides, from books such as Wine for Dummies to wine scores that skip the tedious nuances of aroma and palate.
While wine may be only a drink, it is also one of the most complex sensory pleasures we enjoy. It is as cerebral as it is sensual, and it requires a lifetime to appreciate it. Because of this, wine is a source of insecurity—and that makes it the ideal object for snobbery.
Since wine is part of any civilized gathering, it provides exquisite opportunities for showmanship. You rarely have an opening to show off your knowledge of eighteenth-century painting or Verdi opera, but the topic of wine doesn't need a contrived segue when a bottle is placed on the table. Simply throw off a few generic descriptors, such as "audacious" or "saucy," and then move into the esoteric: "Under an initial layer of antique cigar box, I'm sensing ephemeral nuances of spring daisies and an arc of cassis and tar notes."
(That's the beauty of wine description: no one can argue with you. It's difficult to fool people about a rare stamp, which has only two dimensions and a standard sticky taste. But wine, with its insider jargon, myriad styles and multi-sensory delights, has a greater range of interpretation.)
Since wine is interwoven with history, politics, religion, geography, art, science, sociology and other fields, there's hardly any topic that can't be used to get back to talking about wine. If conversation veers away to current events, get it back on course by referring to the Australian wine scandal involving silver nitrate. If someone mentions buying land, launch into a discussion of terroir. Even the weather can be a springboard: talk about the devastating rains during the 1974 harvest in Alsace that lowered grape sugar levels. (Penitential silence should follow this remark.)
Such encyclopedic knowledge requires years of reading, tasting and travel. Why bother? Well, start with wine itself. Beyond being a sensual pleasure, drinking is a five-senses, full-brain exercise (that is, until it becomes a foggy-brained exercise). Eighty per cent of its character is in the aroma; and smell is the only sense that conveys information directly to the brain, connecting to the areas responsible for memory and emotion.
The complexity of wine is also an exercise in memory. Take all the wine-producing countries from both the New and Old Worlds. Layer the sub-regions, appellations and quality designations onto thousands of wineries and châteaux, each of which has different winemaking methods that vary according to climate every year. Throw in hundreds of grapes, blends and styles, including red, white, rosé, sparkling, fortified, botrytized, late harvest, icewine and others. Don't forget the chemistry of aging wine, the art of matching it with food, the anthropology of its role in civilization, and the history of the great châteaux that are thousands of years old. Mastering such a subject is as rewarding as it is difficult.
Indeed, unless you were part of the wine trade, such mastery was nearly impossible twenty-five years ago. Magazines such as The Wine Spectator didn't exist and the Internet was not yet widely available as a source of information. Today, not only are there dozens of wine magazines, books and web sites, but travel is also cheaper, so you can visit those foreign wineries, not just read about them. (The real coup is dropping the first names of famous vintners with whom you shared a bottle—embroidering the story as you retell it, of course.)
The fruit of such knowledge is deeper enjoyment. Wine can be enjoyed on a hedonistic level, but as a product of the vine grower's science and the winemaker's art. For snobs, ordering a "glass of wine" in a restaurant is as déclassé as asking for a "plate of food." Most of us want to know what the dish is, how it's prepared and what sauces are used. Similarly, the difference between a wine grown on the south or north face of a vineyard slope is as great as the difference between a steak that's rare and one that's well done.
Most importantly, mastery of wine lore will make you appear to be to the manor born—even if you're from Cowpoke Corners. Like appreciation of the arts, horses and antique cars, wine appreciation has the distinct aroma of Old Money under a patina of The Right Schools. For centuries, the elite have used wine snobbery to separate themselves from everyone else. The aristocrats of the eighteenth century sipped the fine wines of Bordeaux and Burgundy, while peasants swigged plonk by the hogshead.
Even among fine wines, there's always been a caste system, with first-growths and premium crus outclassing less noble growths. When Napoleon III ordered the ranking of Bordeaux wines at the 1855 World Fair in Paris, it was done according to price rather than quality—even though the two were not necessarily synonymous. Since then, various waves of nouveaux riches—from Bay Street bankers to high-tech flyers—have turned to "label drinking." If you have instant wealth, you need instant culture; and wine has long been the first-reach substitute for self-esteem and social grace.
The next time I met Sebastian we dined at a fine French restaurant, where I have a ringside seat to watch him in verbal hand-to-hand combat with the sommelier. (That's how snobs recertify their black belts.) Sebastian was in fine fighting form: after tasting the first $225 bottle, he looked as though he'd just sipped paint thinner. The wine steward eyed Sebastian suspiciously, fingering his tastevin like a Colt .44. Sebastian swatted the bottle away like a bad odour. The sommelier huffed his way back to the cellar to fetch another sacrificial offering. In all, Sebastian refused just over $500 worth of wine that night, before settling on a "whimsical little wine that he should have offered in the first place."
What distinguishes the true snob from the wafflers who call themselves connoisseurs is attitude. Connoisseurs will try new wines from new regions; snobs are convinced that only traditional châteaux can make fine wine. Connoisseurs dare not opine on areas outside their expertise, snobs know that intense conviction is sufficient, and factual support merely incidental. Connoisseurs may open a bottle of wine in the kitchen; but snobs never miss the spectacle of decanting in front of guests. Connoisseurs judge wine based on what's in the glass; snobs go by what's on the label.
The last time I saw Sebastian, we were at a friend's home. A guest turned to him and said, "I hear you know a lot about wine." Sebastian smiled with benevolent condescension, ready to help a novice learn at the foot of the master. "How is wine brewed?" the young acolyte asked. Splinters of suffering darted down Sebastian's face: it was as if he had just felt the ancient suffering of his ancestor's ghost—a feudal baron two hundred years ago, who had been forced to dine with one of his serfs.
Sidebar: Spotting the Wine Snob
The wine snob is a rare bird. His natural habitat is marked with mature Bordeaux and Burgundy. He is best approached from a distance, lest you disturb his decanting ritual. Note the way he holds his glass at the base while swirling the wine to the top rim. See how he displays his verbal plumage in the presence of cult cabernet.
Not all wine snobs are alike; there are several subspecies. Consider borus nonshutuputus. After listening to the dinner conversation for a few minutes, he will establish territory by contradicting the next-most-knowledgeable person present. When nosing the wine, he will scent not only the region and winery, but also what the vintner and his wife were arguing about on the day the grapes were harvested.
Borus technotalkatus is a related species, but note the difference in vocabulary. Just as mating calls distinguish many bird species, technotalkatus emits at regular intervals sounds such as "malolactic fermentation," "carbonic masceration" and "light carbonation."
Collectorosa completeca owns every great bottle from every great vintage. His most frequently heard call is, "I own that wine too." Any reference to France will cause him to pounce on the opportunity of telling his château story, including the nickname of the winemaker. Do not get excited if you're invited to his home: his wines are purely for display, and will not be consumed in his lifetime.
Finally there's healthus maniacutus, who doesn't necessarily like wine but takes it as medicine. Instead of a vintage chart, he keeps a list of various wines' resveratrol levels in his breast pocket. He's recalculated his expected lifespan based on his reduced risk of heart disease from drinking 1.5 glasses of wine daily. His favourite book is The French Paradox.
If you suddenly encounter any of these wine snobs at close range, retreat slowly to the beer cooler—they will not follow you there. Regroup and go in again with a few all-purpose adjectives such as "backward," "meaty" and "barnyard"; and some bon mots that hint at your world citizenship, such as "formidable" and "pas mal." (Be sure to say them with the right amount of nonchalance.) Let your listeners know that it causes you great personal pain to drink white zinfandel, the equivalent of an industrial pre-mix solution.
Much status can be gained from referring to your palate as though it were a protected archeological site—distinguishing between the forward, middle and back grids. This seriousness should be carried over to the restaurant wine list, which you can analyze like a Talmudic scholar poring over the sacred texts.
But be kind. Wine snobs are not only rare birds, they are also an endangered species. They are aesthetically assaulted by bladder boxes; systematically shocked by provincials who know nothing about terroir. Increasingly, they stay in their lair rather than venturing out into the open fields of social groupings, where they have become an easy target.
NatalieMacLean.com
A Remembrance of Things Repast
By Natalie MacLean
Breakfast in a gulp, lunch on the go and dinner on the run. Life in the fast lane seems to have bypassed the slow, ancient pleasures of the table. However, an aimable group of gastromes hopes to put an end to our nuke-it-and-eat-it culture.
With a charming chiocciolina (small snail) as its mascot and a philosophy that advocates the defence of pleasure, Slow Food, an international organization with 30,000 members in 35 countries is helping members rediscover the flavours of regional cooking and fresh local produce. The group believes that small doses of sensual pleasure preserve us from the fast and frozen food, the enemies of contemplative cuisine.
In a society that fuels our frenzy with food, what is the appeal of slowing down? Think back to memorable meals you’ve had in the past. Most likely, they were leisurely affairs with friends and family gathered around the table discussing events of the day while savoring each of the dishes. It’s that sensual spirit that members of Slow Food are trying to reawaken. In addition to slowing down, they also believe in eating traditional food and wine.
A project called the Ark of Taste names foods that are in danger of disappearing from our table such as Macedonian yogurt, Scandinavian lamb, centuries-old orange trees in Nice, red-violet skinned peaches from Provenance and Californian zinfandel vines, among others. The group also hopes to preserve artisanal food preparation by sustaining demand for these products. Without this effort, the group foresees the homogenization of foods, citing the example that at the turn of the century, there were 30,000 varieties of rice in India. Now, there are only 12.
Several trends point to the promise of the movement in North America including the emergence of microbreweries in a market long dominated by a few beer monoliths. Small wineries are also experiencing unprecedented popularity. The “cult cabs” of California such as Grace Family, Screaming Eagle and David Bruce together produce what would likely fit on one of Gallo’s delivery trucks, yet they cannot meet demand for their wines, despite stratospheric prices.
But isn’t trying to get people to spend hours preparing homecooked meals naively out of step with our time-crunched culture? There’s a trendy answer to that too: the personal chef. A personal chef may cook for ten families, depending on the size of the business. After an initial meeting to determine dietary preferences, a personal chef usually visits each family’s house every two weeks and spends the day buying the groceries, preparing the meals, labeling them for the freezer, cleaning up and setting the table.
So instead of wondering up and down the grocery aisles at 6 pm with a glazed look of hunger as you try to figure out what to cook for dinner, imagine walking into your home to the heady aroma of herb chicken and butternut squash. Your personal chef has been here today so you sneak upstairs, slip into your fuzzy slippers and read a chapter of the latest John Grisham novel before dinner.
When you and your family gather around the table, it is for an elegant meal that’s as fine as those in restaurants. The only difference is that you eat in the comfort and privacy of your own home without having to make reservations or wait in line for your table.
Who hires personal chefs? Professionals with children who not only have demanding careers, but also the added pressures of soccer practice, music lessons, after-school meetings. Given a choice, they’d rather spend their evenings with their kids than the cheese grater. According to Judith Madill, a professor at Carleton University, the growing popularity of personal chefs boils down to taste, convenience, healthfulness and priorities. “People are looking for strategies to cope with “role overload” – too little time for too many roles such as professional, father, wife, cook and so on.”
Recent studies reveal that Canadians’ interest in eating healthful food that tastes good is at an all-time high, but the time they have to cook is at an all-time low. In 1970, dual income families represented only 38 percent of all families in Canada and they spent 15 percent of their food dollars on meals prepared outside the home. By 1995, more than 51 percent included two wage earners and they spent 28 percent on out-of-home meals.
Fueled by these changes, a spectrum of “home replacement meals” has developed from high-end take-out meals from restaurants, delis and caterers to freshly prepared meals in boutique areas of grocery stores. According to Tracey Black, chef at the catering company MacKay Street Epicuria, 70 percent of the meals purchased from her take-home food store are for regular meals as opposed to special occasions and parties.
Madill adds that meals are tightly wound with family traditions; increasingly, people feel they regain a stronger sense of family life by sharing a home cooked meal -- even if they didn’t cook it. This ties into the heart of the slow food movement that says time spent in sharing a carefully prepared meal allows us to rediscover one of our lost rituals. While you can’t stop the clock, you can certainly unwind at the dinner table, savoring the timeless pleasures of the earth’s bounty and one another’s company.
Sidebar: A sampling of personal chefs across the country: Vancouver/Surrey: Dinner by Design 604-542-0808; Toronto: Dinner Belle 416-406-0648; Ottawa: MacKay Street Epicuria 613-745-7356
NatalieMacLean.com
A little claret with your mac and cheese?
By Natalie MacLean
The nineteenth century French gastrome Anthelme Brillat-Savarin would have choked on his foie gras had he known that tipplers today drink wine with frozen dinners. Is this the beginning of the end for the fine art of food and wine pairing? Are we losing our ability to appreciate the finer things of life?
Not according to Katie Morton who launched Stouffer’s Complete Dinner Stir-Kits with wine suggestions on the package. Morton has taken on the Quixotic quest of making frozen dinners a more “exotic meal experience.” The meal line has sold well since its launch in 1998, particularly since more people are now eating frozen meals.
In fact, sales of all frozen dinners have tripled over the last six years, with 67 percent of us partaking of these frozen repasts. According to the market research firm ACNeilsen, we eat an average of 18 “centre of plate frozen units” annually (can dinner sound any less appetizing than when stated in market research terms?). The heavy users among us are chowing down on roughly one frozen dinner weekly. Such growth is not surprising considering the evolution of the frozen meal over the last 45 years; frozen no longer means bland. Making wine suggestions on the package is another step in positioning these meals as gourmet-to-go.
The most popular dishes, chicken and pasta, are also those that go well with many wines. For its chicken primavera, Stouffer’s recommends a pinot grigio or chardonnay while szechuan beef goes well with a chilled beer, an Australian shiraz or zinfandel. For seafood paella, try a chilled Spanish white Rioja wine or chilled dry rose, while gewurztraminer or beer are appropriate for both spicy shanghai chicken or thai beef.
Morton notes that the meals are aimed at aimed at couples who want an alternative to dining out. The company researched the concept with customers extensively and then worked with a consultant to develop the wine recommendations.
While some frozen meals in the U.K. also include wine suggestions on the package, Stouffer’s seems to be the only producer in Canada so far. Here are some suggestions to jazz up your mac & cheese, or whatever you may be pulling out of the freezer tonight.
NatalieMacLean.com
A Delicate Balance
By Natalie MacLean
Dinner with wine used to be simple. The rule was white wine with white meat and red wine with red meat. But most of us don’t just eat meat and potatoes or drink claret and chablis these days.
With modern fusion cuisine and wines from new regions around the world, the choices – and confusion – are great. One new school of thought is that any wine goes with any dish. However, most of us don’t put ketchup on our ice cream for the same reason as we don’t drink a delicate white wine with a hearty meat dish or a powerful red wine with sole – they are mismatched flavors and textures.
When the marriage of food and wine works well, each enhances the other, making the meal greater than if you had consumed them separately. That’s why the following classic matches have survived the changes in food fashion: stilton with port, foie gras with sauternes, boeuf bourguignon with Burgundian pinot noir and goat cheese with sauvignon blanc.
It helps to start with the basic principles of food and wine pairing as they still provide a basis for experimenting with new world cuisine. One of the most important elements to harmonize between wine and food is flavor. For example, a tangy tomato-based pasta sauce requires a wine with comparable acidity. Without this balance between the acidity of the dish and the wine, the partner with lower acidity tastes flabby and dull, while the other, too tart.
To find an acidic wine, you can chose one that is made in the same area as the food. Years of matching the regional cuisine and wine as well as similar soil and climatic conditions make this a safe bet. For example, you could pair a tomato sauce fettuccine with a Tuscan chianti. Or you can select a wine from a cool climate where the grapes don’t ripen to great sweetness, and maintain their tart, tangy edge. Crisp New Zealand sauvignon blancs and French chablis serve these dishes well.
Acidic wines also work well with salty dishes. For example, oysters are both salty and briny with an oily mouth-coating texture that can smoother most wines. However, a sparkling wine from California, a Spanish cava or French champagne can both refresh and cleanse your palate when eating fish. Bubblies also work well with spicy foods. Hot spice in Asian, Thai, curry and chili pepper dishes can numb the palate. Many of these foods also have high acidity from citrus ingredients such as lime juice as well as sweetness. Therefore, you need a wine with an acidic backbone as well as a touch of sweetness such as an off-dry California sparkling wine with lots of fruit.
While off-dry, acidic wines go well with many dishes, the two most difficult wines to pair with food are also the two most popular: chardonnay and cabernet sauvignon. New World chardonnays can be oaky, buttery, flavorful wines that overwhelm many dishes. But you can still enjoy chardonnay with your meal. Pair it with butter and cream sauces to marry similar textures and flavors.
Conversely, cabernet sauvignons can have bitter dark fruit flavours with mouth drying tannins (the same sensation you get from drinking well-brewed tea). Therefore, they find their happiest match in foods with juicy proteins such as a rare steak. The protein softens the tannin making the wine taste smooth and fruity. Steaks done with crushed black peppercorns sensitize your taste-buds, making the wine taste even more fruity and robust. However, the way in which the dish is prepared also has an impact. A well-done steak, for example, may taste too dry with a tannic cabernet.
Proteins are also at work with the marriage of wine and cheese, the cocktail classic. Red wines tend to go better with hard cheeses such as blue cheese as they can accommodate more tannins. However, whites suit soft cheeses such as brie and camembert as the creamier textures require more acidity for balance.
Game birds such quail, pheasant, turkey, duck, squab and guinea hen have earthy flavors that are more robust than chicken. Wild game often goes better with racy red wines that have a gamy quality to them, the classic being Burgundian pinot noir. The flavors of pinot noir -- plum, cherry, mushrooms, earth and even barnyard (that’s a positive adjective) – accentuate the same gamy flavors in the food. Other wine options for game birds include Spanish rioja, Oregon pinot noir and lighter-style Rhône Valley wines such as Côte-Rôtie.
When it comes to barbecued and grilled dishes, go for robust reds, such as shiraz, cabernet sauvignon and barolo. Argentine malbec is the Ultimate Summer Barbecue Wine. With it's fleshy black fruit, dark spices and smoky notes, malbec muscles in beautifully beside most grilled fare: it's a sizzling combination.
One of the most challenging flavors to balance is sweetness. Dishes with a touch of sweetness such as glazed pork do well with off-dry wines such as riesling and chenin blanc. However, rich desserts such as chocolate and crème brulée demand a wine that is sweeter than the dessert, or the wine will taste thin, even bitter. Sweet wines such as sauternes, Canadian icewine, late harvest wines and port will work not only for their sweetness but also for their unctuous texture.
Pair food with wine with my easy-to-use online tool. Search by wine if you're looking for meal inspirations or search by food to find great wine suggestions. In my new book, Red, White and Drunk All Over, I explore food and wine matching in more depth.
Your best source of food and wine matching is your own palate. Experiment with different combinations to discover not only what makes a perfect pairing for you, but also to broaden your range of possibilities. As the author Alexis Lichine observed, “There is no substitute for pulling corks.”
SIDEBARS
WHITE WINE AND FOOD MATCHES
Chardonnay: seafood with butter sauce, chicken, pasta with cream sauce, veal, turkey, ham, Emmenthal, Gruyeres, Port-Salut
Riesling: mild cheese, clams, mussels, Asian dishes, sashimi, ham, pork, lobster Newberg, Tandoori chicken, Coquilles St Jacques
Sauvignon Blanc: oysters, grilled or poached salmon, seafood salad, Irish stew, ham, chevre, goat cheese and strongly flavored cheeses, asparagus quiche
Gewurztraminer: spicy dishes, Thai food, curry, smoked salmon, pork and sauerkraut, Muenster, spiced/peppered cheeses, onion tart
RED WINE AND FOOD MATCHES
Cabernet Sauvignon: duck, spicy beef, pate, rabbit, roasts, spicy poultry, cheddar, blue cheese, sausage, kidneys
Pinot Noir: braised chicken, cold duck, rabbit, charcuterie, partridge, roasted turkey, roasted beef, lamb, veal, truffles, Gruyeres
Merlot: braised chicken, cold duck, roasted turkey, roasted beef, lamb, veal, stew, liver, venison, meat casseroles
Shiraz: braised chicken, chili, goose, meat stew, peppercorn steak, barbequed meat, spicy meats, garlic casserole, ratatouille
NatalieMacLean.com
“No other holiday celebrates the gift of wine like Thanksgiving,” says Natalie MacLean, author of the bestselling book Red, White and Drunk All Over: A Wine-Soaked Journey from Grape to Glass. “Wine is a taste of the harvest along with all the delicious dishes on the table. But actually choosing a bottle can feel like a thankless task, especially with so many flavors to match.”
Relax. Have a drink. And try some of Natalie’s suggestions for great wines to pair with Thanksgiving turkey and all the trimmings. In Red, White and Drunk All Over, which has just been published in paperback, Natalie discusses wine and food pairing for Thanksgiving dinner. A new chapter in the book also addresses the five toughest matches for wine: vegetables, spicy dishes, chocolate, cheese, and fast food.
Natalie’s free online matching tool at www.nataliemaclean.com/matcher complements her in-depth discussion in the book by allowing you to click on “turkey holiday dinner” to find wines that accompany all kinds of dishes, from roast turkey to turducken, from creamed corn to pecan pie.
Natalie also offers five quick tips for choosing a terrific Thanksgiving wine:
1. Start with bubbly. Sparkling wine is a great aperitif to sip while you wait for the turkey to finish cooking. It adds a celebratory note to the meal and goes well with starters like soup and salad.
2. Consider the turkey. Unlike most poultry and game birds, turkey meat is very dry in texture. So you need a mouth-watering wine to complement it. Good options are crisp whites like riesling and pinot grigio. And yes you can drink red wine with white meat: pinot noir, beaujolais and zinfandel all have juicy, berry-ripe flavors that go well with turkey.
3. Look beyond the bird. The range of side dishes means that you don’t have to match your wine just to the turkey. Since Thanksgiving dinner is often a banquet-style meal, with everyone choosing the trimmings, why not do the same with your wines? Offer both red and white, and possibly more than one depending on the size of your group.
4. Complement or contrast. A big, buttery chardonnay from California or Chile can complement the roasted, smoky flavors of squash, chestnuts and pecan stuffing. But if you’d rather have a contrast to the richness of cream sauces and dressings, try a crisp New Zealand sauvignon blanc.
5. End on a sweet note. If anyone still has room left when it’s time for pumpkin or pecan pie, offer a late harvest wine or icewine. If you’re a chocolate fan, try serving a liqueur with complementary flavors such as raspberry or blackcurrant.
Natalie’s online wine matching tool isn’t just about Thanksgiving dinner: it allows you to pair wine with other seasonal fall produce, game meats, pizza, egg dishes, TV dinners, breads and desserts. Visitors simply search by wine for meal inspirations or by food to find great wine choices. The site has more than 364,000 food and wine combinations, as well as thousands of recipes for those planning holiday parties and Christmas turkey dinner.
The matching tool is updated regularly, as Natalie responds to her readers’ suggestions for more dishes and wines. Many of these suggestions come from the 78,000 subscribers to her free e-newsletter, Nat Decants, which offers tips on how to buy, cellar and serve wine. Got a dish or a wine to stump Natalie? E-mail her via the web site and she’ll suggest a match for you. Happy Thanksgiving!
Natalie MacLean has won four James Beard Journalism Awards, including the MFK Fisher Distinguished Writing Award; and she was named the World’s Best Drink Writer at the World Food Media Awards. Rex Pickett, author of Sideways, says that Natalie “writes about wine with a sensuous obsession” and is “often laugh-out-loud funny.” Eric Asimov of The New York Times notes, “Ms. MacLean is the disarming Everywoman … she loves wine, loves drinking … a winning formula.” The Financial Times observes: “Natalie MacLean is a new force in the wine writing world—a feisty North American answer to Hugh Johnson and Jancis Robinson.”
Note: High-resolution and web-friendly screen shots of the book and online matcher are available at www.nataliemaclean.com/book/highres.asp.
NatalieMacLean.com
By Natalie MacLean
Corked doesn’t refer to bits of cork floating in your wine glass. Natural corks, made from the bark of cork trees grown in Spain and Portugal, can contain a chemical compound called “2, 4, 6 trichloranisole” or TCA. The wine interacts with TCA to create the taint and it’s estimated that 5-10% of natural corks are faulty this way, though that's improving with more careful practices and better technology. Even a mild case of taint from natural corks strips wine of its expressive aromas and a severe one makes it smell like moldy cardboard. This defect is why screwcaps are coming into vogue: you bypass this issue altogether.
NatalieMacLean.com
By Natalie MacLean
What does it mean to decant wine and how do you do it?
Pouring wine from its bottle into some other container: a carafe, a decanter, even a water jug.
Why decant wine?
Wines are decanted to get rid of sediment, the organic matter that naturally precipitates from the wine as it matures. The wines that throw the most sediment are mature, full-bodied red wines and vintage port. The second reason to decant is to let the wine breathe so that it helps to warm up a wine that’s too cold, soften any harsh tannins and open up its aromatics. This is especially true of rough-and-not-ready reds, particularly young, full-bodied ones: cabernet sauvignon, zinfandel, brunello, barolo, bordeaux, rioja, shiraz, syrah and Northern Rhone wines.
Should some wines not be decanted?
Even decanting hardliners admit that some wines just aren’t made for airing out. Delicate red wines, such as pinot noir, aren’t usually decanted because their subtle aromas can quickly dissipate. The same goes for zesty whites, such as rieslings and sauvignon blanc: they can lose their crisp, refreshing edge. Others are borderline: full-bodied whites, such as oaky chardonnays and some sweet wines, may benefit from decanting, depending on the style you like.
Which types of decanters are best?
You need a decanter large enough to hold the contents of a standard bottle, with some room at the top to allow the wine to breathe. Decanters that maximize the wine-to-air surface ratio are best for young wines, while those with narrow necks that reduce air exposure are better for older wines that just need their sediment removed. For a comprehensive list of retailers that sell decanters, glassware and other wine accessories, please click here.
NatalieMacLean.com
By Natalie MacLean
How long do wines keep once opened?
The answer is a highly subjective, according to both the wine and the drinker. Generally, dry white wines have the shortest life once opened. I find they lose their character after even one or two days, especially cheaply-made, oaky New World whites. (Whites with good acidity and lots of character from Burgundy are an exception.) For reds, I think that most start to slip after two days, though again it depends on how well the wine was made. There are always exceptions.
Sweet and fortified wines, such as icewine, port and sherry, have a longer life because of their higher sweetness and/or alcohol, both of which act as a preservative. I still like most opened icewines after three to four days; ports from one week to four, depending on their quality. You can extend the life of any opened wine by giving it a few squirts of liquid nitrogen, such as Wine Preserver, a spray can sold in many liquor and wine accessory stores. Another trick is to pour your remaining wine into a clean, empty half bottle size and cork it. This also minimizes the amount of oxygen that can affect the wine. Some drinkers don't mind a wine that's still 60-80% there in terms of its character; others want the full expression or nothing. I tend to err on the latter side of the ledger.
National Post
November 14, 2009
By Amy Rosen
Pretty in pink is a common theme. As are images of stilettos, vamp red lips, long limbs and sexy cocktail parties. In a bid to corner the chick wine market while at the same time helping women overcome their supposed fear of buying wine, wineries around the globe are tarting up their labels with a wink towards debaucherous girls' nights out - rebranding or creating new blends with names such as Strut, Bitch and Pink.
"I'm always skeptical of marketing-driven wines," says Natalie MacLean, an Ottawa wine writer who also publishes the popular e-newsletter nataliemaclean.com. "Authentic wine has its roots in the ground, not in a focus group." But with more than a million wine producers worldwide she adds, "I understand a winery's need to stand out on crowded liquor store shelves."
MacLean says that the job of a wine label - be it fluffy squirrel or a castle in the middle distance - is to get us to try the wine. Then it's up to the consumer to decide whether the wine delivers beyond the label. And in terms of this new breed of grrrl friendly vino, she finds that while some of these wines are complete plonk, "I've been pleasantly surprised by the price-quality of a few, such as Strut and Girls' Night Out."
Is she insulted by the branding? "No. It's alcoholic grape juice, for goodness sakes. I call my glass of wine at 5 p.m. ‘Mommy's Little Helper' - now there's a name for a focus group to test."
Like MacLean, Courtney Henderson, restaurant manager and sommelier at the AGO's Frank restaurant, is intrigued by how wines are marketed these days. "I understand what these brands are trying to achieve," she says, "and as a sommelier, my goal is to make wine approachable and fun and I love when producers try to accomplish this as well. But who are these labels really appealing to?" she wonders. "Are they reaching out to an appropriate demographic? More importantly, is it dumbing down women's knowledge of the topic?"
Doesn't it seem like just yesterday we were happily chug-a-lugging Farnese, Yellowtail and Fuzion? It felt good - as a nation we were finally bypassing beer and enjoying affordable, drinkable wines. Sales were on the upswing. Recognizing an opportunity, Calgary sommelier Erin Rosar put together her Wine in the Kitchen kits, which launched this year - a pink hatbox that includes all the elements for a educational at-home wine party, including a DVD walkthrough of the wine tasting experience. The kits proved so popular that Rosar, through her company WG Wines, just released her latest DVD, Bubbles 101.
Even porn stars are getting in on the hot, sweet action. Upon the debut of XXX-performer Savanna Samson's Sogno Uno, with a label depicting Samson in back-arched glory, the inimitable Robert Parker gave the 2006 release a score of 90-91 out of 100. (A score of 90 to 95 denotes "an outstanding wine of exceptional complexity and character.") But Samson had an ace in the hole - a winemaker, Roberto Ciipresso, who had previously worked for the late Pope John Paul II. The porn star could now add her wine accolades to the mantle, alongside the porn industry's highest award for "best all-girl sex scene." (Admittedly, Samson's wine is likely geared towards men. And lesbians.)
As a sommelier at the Platinum Club in the Air Canada Centre in Toronto, Lorie O'Sullivan says that one of her roles as a female sommelier is to educate consumers, particularly women, about wine. "It's a rare treat when I have a female guest ask me about wine and how to pick a good one," she concedes, seeing as she works at one of the most male-dominated venues in the country. O'Sullivan thinks that some women who spot these new girly bottles labelled with a grape variety they know and like and priced between the magic $10-$15 mark feel confident in their purchase. "I recently had the opportunity to taste a few of these wines," O'Sullivan says, "in particular, the 2007 Little Black Dress Merlot from California really surprised me. The wine has some structure to it: The nose had notes of cocoa and plums and the wine was smooth on the finish." So would she buy it again? "Probably not," she admits, "but if marketing this way to women encourages them to buy wine and leaves them with a thirst to learn more - then perhaps it's not a bad thing."
Maybe so. Still, I can't help but think there's a double standard going on here. After all, why aren't there any vintages being called Big Guy or Fat Bastard? Oh wait. Never mind.
National Post
June 24, 2009
By Ron Nurwisah
Updated with more lists from you, our dear readers!
We got a deluge of entries for our summer giveaway and as promised we're posting some of our favorite entries. We're hoping that some of these entries spark you to add a few more books to your summer reading list. We'll add a few more of your summer reading lists tomorrow and announce the winner of our summer grab bag. Without further ado:
Sharon made us laugh with her entry.
1. Honey I've Wrecked The Kids by Alyson Schafer
2. Red, White and Drunk All Over by Natalie Maclean
3. Twilight by Stephanie Meyer (do we really need to put a link to this book? really?)
To quote her e-mail:
I feel a reading list tells you a lot about a person. I'll leave it up to you to decide what mine is saying about me.
Actually I won't leave it up to you - it's saying, this is a woman in dire need of books as she has locked herself in the closet with a bottle of wine to read a tween book about vampires in order to escape the reality of her screaming children.
Nepean This Week
November 3, 2006
By Julie Fortier
Already well known in the wine world for her online wine expert website Nat Decants (www.nataliemaclean.com) and her columns in numerous magazines, Natalie MacLean has written an international hit about her journey into the world of wine.
Red, White, and Drunk All Over: A Wine-Soaked Journey from Grape to Glass is a funny, behind-the-scenes look at the international wine industry written in a way only MacLean can write. In her book, she travels from the vineyards of Burgundy to the trendy restaurants of California.
“I always tell people, I’m not an expert, I’m an enthusiastic amateur. I really just stumbled into it,” she explained.
Her book is gaining praise from critics from all over North America for its accessible and in-depth look into wine.
“I went to Burgundy and the Champagne region in France and these were my first experiences there not only as a wine expert, but just visiting. So I was learning as I went.
Instead of just going to the places, I tried to find the most passionate people in the wine industry and then I tried to participate by going out and helping to harvest the grapes,” MacLean said. “Most of all, it was a fun journey.”
A high tech worker by trade, MacLean found her passion for wine after she took a sommelier course and became an accredited sommelier at Algonquin College.
Eight years ago she went on maternity leave after having her son and went on to launch a website in which she discussed her favourite wines. “I wanted to keep my mind active so I decided to combine my two skills, wine appreciation and high tech,” she said.
She started by sending out free weekly e-mail newsletters, with stories and notes about her current favourite wines and got feedback from her readers. That list has grown to 53,000 subscribers in 36 countries.
“I love the interaction I have with my readers on my website. I get to learn all about what they are drinking and what they think of my articles,” said MacLean, who has 800 bottles stored in her cellar.
Then, she picked up a food magazine one day and found that it did not have any articles on wine. She sent the editor a proposal, and she now writes for other magazines.
MacLean has won more than a dozen major international awards for her writing, including the MFK Fisher Distinguished Writing Award and a World Food Media Award which named her World’s Best Drink Writer for 2003. She said the key to her writing is keeping the writer entertained without bogging them down in the snobbery that so many wine articles can fall into. “The bottom line is there is no substitute for your own palette. Have fun with it. I don’t write lists about the top 20 things you have to remember when ordering wine. That’s so intimidating,” she said.
Instead, she followed around the sommelier from the five-star Le Baccara restaurant and then acted as the sommelier herself for half the night which she said “terrified” her. Although she said she ended up spilling red wine all over the place, she learned a lot.
Next on the list for MacLean is book signings and keeping her columns and website going. She plans on writing another book, but plans to take a bit more time with the next one.
New Jersey Monthly
February 13, 2009
By Sue Guerra
Here’s my idea of a holiday: a ski trip with my family to the charming little town of Sutton, just north of the U.S. border in Quebec—and an opportunity to sample the local wines.
This annual Presidents Week ski trip is also a pilgrimage of sorts to the wonderfully quirky Auberge Agnes Horth where we reconnect with friends who are also drawn to this area, a former outpost for British loyalists that later attracted artists and free spirits.
Our hosts at the inn, Ray and Carla, offer their guests a laid back, family atmosphere and a belly full of gourmet meals including my favorite butter delivery system: freshly baked, perfectly flaky, Parisian-style croissants each morning. A favorite après-ski activity is a trip to the local cheese shop, La Rumeur Affamée.
Luckily, this French-speaking area is also a wine region with gorgeous views of frozen vineyards sprinkled across the mountainous landscape like icing on a deliciously frosted cake.
In preparation for our trip, I visited the website of Canadian sommelier and wine writer Natalie MacLean (www.nataliemaclean.com) to brush up on some Canadian wine facts. Following is one that caught my attention.
Cool climates such as Canada’s produce grapes that are naturally higher in a chemical compound known as resveratrol, the anti-oxidant found in grape skins that when consumed in wine, appears to reduce fat and cholesterol in human blood.
I’ll think about this each time I bite into a baguette smothered in the local and appropriately named cheese: La Brise des Vignerons.
New Jersey Monthly 2
February 24, 2009
By Sue Guerra
Much thought is given to pairing wines with gourmet dishes or the choicest selections of meat, fish, and poultry. But what about more plebian fare like fries and gravy?
As I headed out of town last week, sommelier and wine writer Natalie MacLean (www.nataliemaclean.com) asked for my ideas on the best wine to pair with the Quebec specialty known as poutine.
Poutine is the name given north of the border to a concoction of French fries, brown gravy, and melted cheese. Of course, back home in New Jersey, we have our own name for this artery-clogging treat: disco fries, that favorite of the late-night diner crowd. With the Tick Tock Diner and Six Brothers just minutes from my house, I won’t have to drive to Canada if I have a craving for it.
But what wine to pair with poutine? An oaky, buttery Chardonnay would work, but I would probably just grab a beer. At the end of a hard day of skiing this is the kind of comfort food (and drink) that my aching body can use.
Whatever you call it, one thing is for sure: It’ll take a lot of cold climate, resveratrol-rich wine to clear out the fat content of a single serving of fries and gravy.
New Jersey Star-Ledger
November 8, 2007
By Tricia Colianne
Thanksgiving is either the most difficult meal with which to pair wine or the easiest.
Turkey and its trimmings go with everything and nothing at the same time. It's those sides that throw everything off. From sweet candied yams to mushroomy green bean casserole to tart cranberry sauce, you really can't pin down a flavor -- or even a range of flavors -- to complement.
You have a couple of options. You can stop fretting about your wine selection and drink whatever suits you (a fine course of action, if you ask me). Or you can follow a couple of tried-and-trusted guidelines. I won't provide specific bottle suggestions because, frankly, there are so many options at so many price levels that getting into particulars seems silly.
A trusted salesperson should be able to provide that guidance. Knowing your needs and flavor preferences is the crucial thing. Here's where to start:
Sparkling:
As comfortable with turkey and gravy as it is with sweet potatoes, sparkling wine is probably the most versatile type of wine you can buy. Something with a hint of sweetness, like a prosecco or most any demi-sec, does the trick. Or go for a bubbly with the slightest bit of heft, like a cremant.
Rose:
My favorite option, rose is the ultimate in-between wine. It goes with just about anything, which is why it's often known as table wine in France. If you're thinking white zinfandel, you're on the wrong track. Rose is dry. It's fruity without that Kool-Aid finish. Look for bottles from Southern California and French regions such as Provence and Tavel.
Reds:
Simple, reds. If your instinct at Thanksgiving is to reach for a big wine because the flavors on the table are so grand, consider this: Truly powerful wines are likely to compete with your meal and add weight to an already weighty spread. Think instead of simple, fruity, light- to medium-bodied reds. Grenache and gamay are ideal grapes. A fruity pinot noir works very nicely, too. Also look for Italian Dolcetto d'Alba, as well as Cotes du Rhone and Cotes du Ventoux blends from France.
Bright whites:
You'd be hard-pressed to do better than a riesling. The best ones (a Kabinett from Germany is a good bet) are perfumed, fruity and appropriately acidic. They'll clean your palate after every sip and won't weigh down your meal.
Virtual pairing:
Want more specific suggestions? Look to the free wine-pairing Web site of accredited sommelier Natalie MacLean. MacLean, author of "Red, White, and Drunk All Over: A Wine-Soaked Journey from Grape to Glass" provides easy answers to what wines to serve with what dishes at www.nataliemaclean.com/matcher.
The site, which is a helpful plug for MacLean's book, lets you pick the food you'll be serving from series of drop-down menus, and then gives suggestions that will pair well. Or start with the wine and get ideas on what foods would go well. You can also enter your chosen wine for MacLean's specific bottle recommendations.
The easy way:
Greet guests with a cocktail, and make it a signature cocktail you chose for the holiday.
Warm rum cider or champagne with cranberries in it are among the autumnal suggestions of Lara Shriftman and Elizabeth Harrison, party planners who design movie-worthy backdrops, gourmet food and heavenly music for the poshest, most elite Hollywood, New York and Miami parties.
Make or mix the beverage ahead of time and refrigerate (or keep warm if it's cider), so that you're not scrambling when guests arrive.
It's also not necessary to fully stock a bar for Thanksgiving. Have beer and something non-alcoholic, but limit booze to wine, champagne and vodka. Keep soda, tonic and juices on hand to mix with the vodka.
Don't forget to buy ice and fresh lemons and limes. If you don't want to spend the money on bottled water, put tap water in a pitcher on the table and add a few limes or cucumbers to give it a nice flavor.
New Jersey Star-Ledger (2)
February 5, 2008
By T.J. Foderaro
When I started out in the wine business 30 years ago, no one ever talked about drinking wine with chocolate. Wine went with beef; with chocolate, we drank coffee.
Today, pontificating about what kinds of wine -- red or white, still or sparkling -- go with what types of chocolate -- milk or dark, mousse or cake -- is a hot topic among foodies and wine geeks. (Don't get me wrong: Some of my best friends are wine geeks.)
The normally sound advice "Drink what you like" doesn't quite work with chocolate, because most wines, in fact, taste awful with chocolate.
The one wine-pairing rule you never want to forget is: If the food is sweet, the wine needs to be sweeter. Try it for yourself: The next time you have a piece of cookie or candy in your mouth, take a sip of your favorite dry table wine. Your sugar-coated palate will make the wine taste painfully bitter.
In other words, no matter how much you like chardonnay or merlot, the wine will be ruined if you try drinking it with chocolate.
The fact is, your choices for chocolate are fairly limited. After all, the vast majority of wines sold in the United States are fermented dry.
The most comprehensive list of chocolate-friendly wines I know of comes from Natalie MacLean, a popular wine expert and author of the critically acclaimed "Red, White and Drunk All Over: A Wine-Soaked Journey from Grape to Glass."
On her Web site (www.NatalieMacLean.com), MacLean has an interactive "Wine & Food Matcher" that allows you to choose virtually any kind of food, then suggests the right wine to go with it. Under "chocolate," MacLean has wine-pairing tips for no less than 50 confections, from ice cream to fudge to Hershey's Kisses -- no kidding.
She recommends certain wines with light chocolate mousse (muscat, Sauternes) and others for dark chocolate mousse (demi-sec champagne, vin santo). There's something for every breed of chocoholic.
For Valentine's Day, MacLean selected her Top 10 Wine and Chocolate Matches:
1. Dark chocolate with Banyuls, a red-tinted dessert wine from France's Rhone Valley.
2. Chocolate-covered biscotti with Recioto Della Valpolicella, a sweet version of Italy's classic Valpolicella, made from grapes that are allowed to dry and shrivel like raisins before they're pressed.
3. Chocolate-orange cake with Australian muscat, aka a "sticky," the Australian term for an ultra-sweet wine made from the muscat grape.
4. Chocolate and nuts with tawny port, a fortified wine from Portugal that is aged in barrel until the color turns from red to tawny.
5. Milk chocolate with Tokaji, the legendary wine of Hungary, once a favorite of the kings of Europe.
6. Bittersweet chocolate with Amarone, a super-rich red wine from Italy's Veneto reigon. (Yes, Amarone is relatively dry, but so is bittersweet chocolate.)
7. Chocolate-dipped fruit with ice wine, a sweet white made from grapes that are allowed to freeze on the vine before they're pressed.
8. Chocolate truffles with Sauternes, France's most famous dessert wine, from the Bordeaux region.
9. Chocolate raspberry cheesecake with Framboise, a sweet fruit wine made from raspberries.
10. Cream-filled chocolate hearts with cream sherry -- yes, as in Harvey's Bristol Cream.
You may have trouble locating a bottle of Banyuls or Recioto della Valpolicella at your neighborhood wine shop, but it shouldn't be hard to find a good tawny port at a reasonable price. An excellent example is Taylor Fladgate 10 Year Old Tawny (about $25), which the importer, Kobrand Corp., recommends serving with chocolate-nut desserts.
Another delicious, readily available and attractively priced port is Fonseca Bin 27 ($20), which is a little deeper in color and fruitier than classic tawny. It would go perfectly with a dessert combining dark chocolate and fruit, such as chocolate decadence cake with a raspberry puree.
Keep in mind that port is a lot stronger than table wine, with nearly twice the alcohol. All you want is a 3-ounce serving, about half the normal wine pour. And don't worry about the leftovers: Tawny port, because it is fortified and aged for so many years in barrel, will still be good to drink weeks after you pop the cork.
New Jersey Star-Ledger (3)
March 8, 2008
By Claudia Perry
How do you marry cheese and wine? As with any hopeful pairing, a little counseling never hurts.
"I always think you should drink what you like and eat what you like and put them together in ways that create the most pleasure for you," says Natalie MacLean, a wine expert who wrote Red, White and Drunk All Over. "But I wouldn't have a job if I didn't give more guidelines for which wines work better with certain cheeses."
Among useful features on her website, nataliemaclean.com, is the Wine & Food Matcher, which allows you to select a food -- including more than 200 cheeses -- and get wine pairing suggestions. Say you'll be serving a French cheese such as Anneau du Vic-Bilh. Punch that in and get back two white wine suggestions: sauvignon blanc or semillon.
A good rule for matching cheese and wine is to play strength to strength, says Maggie Fox, wine buyer and wine club director for Gary's Wine and Marketplace in Madison and Bernardsville.
"You want strong wines with strong cheeses and lighter wines with lighter cheeses. If you have a smoky cheese, you want a smokier wine with it. You don't want one to overpower the other. Stay away from bigger, more tannic wines if you want to be able to taste the cheese."
Tannin is the substance that makes red wine come to life. You can gauge how much tannin is in a wine by how dry your mouth gets after you drink it. On the lighter side, the acidity that's prevalent in most white wines makes your mouth water.
MacLean also points out that the worlds of wine and cheese have much in common.
"Wine and cheese both ferment, from natural yeast or bacteria, respectively. They both result in controlled decomposition, which may not sound appetizing, but it all results in an amazing range of flavors in both products."
MacLean and Fox agree that mild cheeses like goat cheese and fresh mozzarella are among the easiest to match.
"They're light flavors, they're not going to compete with the wine," MacLean says. "They go beautifully with a light, crisp, white wine like a sauvignon blanc, pinot grigio or riesling."
MacLean has guidelines for cheese and wine pairings in her book, as well as on her website. Her favorite classic matches? Blue cheese or Stilton with port and Spanish sherry with Manchego. "They go well together," she says.
For cheese tasting, Fox suggests sparkling wine as a palate cleanser. "It's a good way to go from one cheese to another. You could also pair a sauvignon blanc with goat cheese or a nice, buttery chardonnay with a more buttery cheese."
Sweet wines and cheeses are designed to go together. "Sauterne (a flavorful dessert wine) goes well with something honeyed or nutty in flavor. Lighter white dessert wines might go better with those types of cheeses than a tawny port."
Another suggestion is to pair cheeses of a region with their neighboring wines. "Take Parmesan or Borgogna, you could pair them with Italian wines. You could do a Burgundy style or merlot if it's not too tannic," Fox says. "You could even do cabernet."
The cheese buyers at Gary's, which is slated to open another store in Wayne next month, can help with suggestions, Fox says. The catering department also can plan wine and cheese events.
Above all, Fox says, don't get too wound up about pairings. "It's all a matter of trial and error," she says. "You can try to have pairings, but people are going to walk around with whatever's in their glass and pick up what's handy. You can't force them to try their shiraz with their gouda."
New York Magazine
August 17, 2007
By Josh Ozersky
Epicurious is the Web arm of the Condé Nast food empire. Gourmet’s blog, Choptalk, has writers from all over the world. But the Epi-log blog seemed to be written by only Tanya Wenman Steel. On Monday, the malnourished Epi-log will get an actual roster of contributors, with Rick Bayless writing on chefly topics, and Melissa Clark, on cookbooks and recipes.
“We decided to create this blog party months and months ago because I wanted to enhance the blog with more voices from all over,” Steel tells us.
So who else is ready to post? Neil “Alternadad” Pollack is on the baby beat, and Red, White, and Drunk All Over author Natalie MacLean will discuss the joys of alcohol. Amy Sherman is doing metacriticism and Michael J. Park on “Food News and Gossip.”
New York Times
July 25, 2007
By Eric Asimov
Price-conscious consumers are understandably a little shy of the 2005 Burgundy vintage. Praise has been nearly unanimous, and prices have shot skyward.
While most attention has been on the reds, the whites are great, too. Still, not everybody will cheerfully drop $50 on a village-level Meursault, much less $150 for a good Corton-Charlemagne.
As ever, the Mâconnais region rides to the rescue. For decades, the Mâconnais, south of the Côte d’Or but part of Burgundy, has overflowed with inexpensive whites. The best were tangy, refreshing and satisfying. The problem was that few achieved even this modest level.
But for the last decade or two Mâconnais wines have been improving significantly. Dynamic young producers who couldn’t afford more desirable vineyard sites in Burgundy flocked to the Mâconnais, where they saw untapped potential at a reasonable price. Instead of viewing grapes as a cash crop to be transformed into wine at the local cooperative, they approach grape growing as seriously as the best Burgundian vignerons.
Even some of the most renowned Burgundy producers, like Comtes Lafon of Meursault and Anne-Claude Leflaive of Domaine Leflaive, unable to expand in the Côte d’Or, bought land in the Mâconnais. They recognized that the region was full of distinctive terroirs with much to offer.
As with any industry that moves with the agricultural cycle, change has been slow. But progress has been steady. So the panel decided to taste 25 bottles of 2005 Mâconnais to see how the wines fared in this excellent year and whether the Mâconnais was still a bargain hunter’s paradise. For the tasting, Florence Fabricant and I were joined by Byron Bates, general manager of Bette in Chelsea; and the wine writer Natalie MacLean, proprietor of the Web site Nat Decants.
Like almost all white Burgundies, Mâconnais wines are made from chardonnay grapes. Yet their contrast with California chardonnays is extraordinary, and they serve as a delicious introduction to what makes white Burgundies distinct.
Unlike chardonnays made almost anywhere else, in which ripe fruit flavors dominate, the best white Burgundies exude minerality and a vibrant texture, with underlying fruit and floral aromas. These differences can make people more attuned to the big fruit flavors wonder whether something is missing in the more subtle Burgundies. It can require a recalibration of the pleasure center.
We found a lot to like about these wines, both in the glass and in their relatively light demand on the wallet. Because of the size of the Mâconnais, we restricted our tasting to the Mâcon appellations, excluding others that are parts of the larger Mâconnais, like Pouilly-Fuissé and Saint-Véran. Given the quality of the Mâcon wines, it would be fair to say that the Pouilly-Fuissés and Saint-Vérans would be even better, though they generally cost more, too.
The Mâconnais can be confusing in a different way than the Côte d’Or. There the village and vineyard names suggest a hierarchy. The Mâconnais is more chaotic. Though wines labeled simply Mâcon are thought to be insipid, two plain Mâcons made our top 10. If the grapes come from any of 40 or so villages, the wine can be called Mâcon-Villages; if the grapes all come from one of those villages, the name of that village can be appended to Mâcon, as in Mâcon-Igé. But the sort of taxonomic arrangement of Côte d’Or villages and vineyards has not yet taken place in Mâconnais.
I tended to be more impressed than my colleagues. They liked them, but only to a point. Ms. MacLean liked their lemon zestiness and what she called their sunny happiness. Mr. Bates was impressed by the minerality and the purity of several of the wines, but on the whole said they were to drink, not to ponder.
While these are not on the level of the Côte de Beaune, I think the ratio of quality to price counts. Is there a better $10 chardonnay than our No. 1, the Mâcon-Igé Château London from Domaine Fichet? This lively, exotic wine was floral and succulent, with a juiciness that kept drawing us back.
Our No. 2, a Mâcon-Villages from Trenel, was more of a classic white Burgundy, with good minerality and a nutlike flavor of barrel aging.
The Bret Brothers, Jean-Guillaume and Jean-Philippe, of Domaine de la Soufrandière, make excellent wines, primarily from Pouilly-Vinzelles. Their négociant operation offers some fine Mâcon wines, including our No. 3, Mâcon-Villages Cuvée Terroir du Mâconnais, which was big and oaky but buttressed by a fresh acidity.
The least expensive wines we tasted were $9, and two made the top 10.
The first, the Mâcon-Lugny Les Charmes from Cave de Lugny, is a blast from the past. Tangy, with an almost yeasty aroma and freshness, it was what the best Mâconnais wines were like before producers got more ambitious. It’s still delicious. The Labouré-Roi Mâcon-Villages St. Armand was unusual for its pronounced pear and apple flavors.
At the other end of the price spectrum was the Mâcon-Milly-Lamartine from Lafon’s Mâconnais operation, Les Héritiers du Comte Lafon. It also emphasized fruit as well as mineral flavors. While the wines are enjoyable, I expect them to improve as Lafon puts its stamp on the vineyards.
It is fashionable to extol smaller estates over larger operations, and we certainly had praise for the little guys. The Mâcon-Charnay Franclieu from Jean Manciat had delicious mineral and citrus flavors, while the Mâcon from Domaine Sainte-Barbe had anise and mineral flavors along with an attractive smoky quality. But some big négociants are reliable. The Mâcon-Villages from Joseph Drouhin was pure and delicious with great texture, and only $10.
We only scratched the surface of the Mâconnais. Producers like Guffens-Heynen, Jean Rijckaert, Olivier Merlin and Maison Verget all offer distinctive Mâcon wines, and wines from Saint-Véran and the Pouillys offer other perspectives.
Clearly, though, Mâconnais is a region in transition. The best wines show greater distinction and personality, and this is apparent in many of the 2005s. Yet they are still good values. Luckily, this has not changed.
New York Times
September 10, 2009
Choosing Wisely by Consulting the Sommelier in Your Pocket
By Bob Tedeshi
Excerpted from the New York Times
Shopping for wine is a lot like parenting a teenager. You feel stupid when you’re in the middle of it, and when you finally emerge, you’re desperately ready for a drink.
There is, alas, no app for raising teenagers. But mobile software developers have begun aiming at oenophiles, and in so doing, they have established one of the more useful categories of wireless apps.
Appropriately enough, choosing the right one can be puzzling and tedious. Some of the refined entries in the current vintage include Cor.kz ($4), Wine Enthusiast Guide ($5), Nat Decants Food & Wine Matcher ($3) and Pair It! ($3). They’re fairly good now, and they should age nicely.
Before digging into the details, though, consider the overall value of these services for a moment. Let’s say you’re at your favorite wine shop with about 15 minutes to spare, and you want a bottle that will make your dinner guests coo, without maxing out your credit card.
The shop owner is helping someone near the Mouton Rothschild, and the other employees are 23-year-olds with extensive beer-stocking skills. Rather than choosing a random bottle or asking the beer guys, you can now just reach for the sommelier in your cellphone.
Nat Decants is available on iPhones and BlackBerrys. But this app belongs in a different subset of wine-related software — those that help users pair wine with food.
Nat Decants is the creation of Natalie MacLean, a wine journalist and registered sommelier, and includes much of the information available on her Web site, Nat Decants (at NatalieMaclean.com).
To use it, select from a drop-down menu of either food or wine, and the software offers you suitable options from nearly 400,000 food and wine pairings.
You are given, for instance, 18 wine varieties that go well with lobster.
I was initially surprised that, of the services I tested, none suggested the best wine to pair with a specific occasion — like, say, reaching the end of school vacation. But maybe that would be silly; the best choice for that, clearly, is the first bottle you can get your hands on.
North Carolina News & Observer
December 26, 2007
By Debbie Moose
The sound of champagne corks popping is about to ring over our land as New Year's Eve approaches.
But if you love the sparklers, why limit yourself to one kind, boringly passed around at midnight? Break out of the bubbly rut this year. Host a festive champagne tasting as a different kind of celebration.
Organizing a tasting at home is simple, with a little knowledge and advice. Some wine shops will even put together private tastings for you.
Because you're tasting small amounts, you could splurge on that more expensive bottle you've always wanted to try. Foods to complement the wine -- go as fancy or as simple as you like -- make an elegant party.
First, the guest list. Eight to 12 people is a good number for dividing the bottles and to get conversation going about the champagnes, says Natalie MacLean, author of "Red, White and Drunk All Over: A Wine-Soaked Journey from Grape to Glass."
A typical tasting will take two to three hours. You could start in early evening, or if you're celebrating New Year's Eve, time the tasting to wrap up with a grand finale champagne at midnight.
The number and types of sparkling wine you serve depend on your budget and level of interest. MacLean suggests serving six or eight bottles of the wine in two flights, or groups, of three or four, broken up by time for discussion.
"If you want true French champagne, that will be fairly expensive," says Emily Howard of Seaboard Wine Warehouse in Raleigh, which held an in-store tasting of sparkling wine earlier this month. "I will sometimes suggest they try ones from around the world. It will be fun and less expensive."
Take a tasting trip from sparkling Shiraz from Australia to Austrian gruner veltliner.
"I suggest comparing non-vintage French, such as Veuve Clicquot and Roederer, with California bubbly such as Domaine Carneros or Chandon, and Roederer," MacLean says. "You could also throw in Spanish cava and Italian spumante."
Consider wines that will surprise people, such as Gruet Brut from, believe it or not, New Mexico, says Arturo Ciompi, wine writer for The Independent in Durham.
"It's really good, not too expensive and a real conversation starter," he says.
You could toss in a North Carolina sparkling wine as well. Biltmore Estate, Childress Vineyards and Duplin Winery all make them.
Here's another approach: Rip the veil of mystery from champagne by holding a blind tasting. Get a variety of American (did you know there's Michigan sparkling wine?) and French sparkling wines and hide the bottles in numbered paper bags.
"See if people can tell the difference," says William Daley, wine writer for the Chicago Tribune. "Give the guests little score sheets to write down their favorites, and ask them to guess which wine comes from where. Give a bottle of bubbly to the winner."
Because this is a tasting, you won't be serving a full glass of every champagne, unless you want your guests to end up sleeping on your floor. A 2-ounce pour (about 1/4 cup or slightly more than a jigger) will allow a good taste without going overboard, and should allow one bottle to serve 10 people.
Since you want to show off the wine to its best advantage, use the right glasses. Flute-shaped glasses -- not saucer- or trumpet-shaped ones -- are best for retaining the bubbles and aroma of the wine. If you don't own enough, borrow or rent some. This is not a time for disposable plastics.
Provide mugs or cups to use as spittoons for those who want to taste without consuming too much champagne.
Sparkling wine should be served colder than white wine, says MacLean, who also publishes a wine e-newsletter at www.nataliemaclean.com. Aim for 40 to 45 degrees. A room temperature bottle should chill to that point in the refrigerator within two or three hours, or put them in ice water for 30 to 45 minutes.
"Just don't put it in the freezer, unless you want exploding bottles to be part of the night's entertainment," she says.
Keep the bottles chilled during the tasting by placing them in a large bowl or bucket of ice water, or pop them back into the fridge.
The order in which you taste the wines is important. Start with the driest and end with the sweetest. Also, lighter wines should be tasted before heavier ones.
The food you serve with the tasting should complement but not compete with the sparkling wines, since they're the stars of this show.
You can't go wrong with traditional oysters on the half shell or caviar, but there are many more foods to explore.
"One thing to look at when pairing food with champagne is you need some fat to cut through all the bubbles," says Phil Evans, executive chef of the Umstead Hotel and Herons Restaurant in Cary.
Evans likes the combination of foie gras and sparkling wine. But if that's a budget-buster for you, other good matches are shrimp, black cod, sablefish or halibut. Heavily smoked fish may overwhelm the wine, but cured fish, such as gravlax, or tuna carpaccio may pair well.
The mild flavor of chicken won't compete with the wines, but beef or lamb is more problematic, Evans says, although Ciompi enjoys beef carpaccio with champagne.
Choose rich but mild cheeses, such as a ripe, creamy brie. The stronger flavors of sparkling Shiraz would work with a heavier cheese, such as gorgonzola, or try bite-sized gorgonzola quiches, Howard suggests.
Evans says that one fallacy about matching food with sparkling wine is the romantic idea of champagne and chocolate. It doesn't work, because the extreme sweetness and heaviness of chocolate makes dry champagne taste bitter.
If you're determined to serve chocolate, pair it with a sweet dessert sparkling wine. But there are other good dessert options that work with dry champagnes, such as crème brûlée or fresh fruit.
The main thing to remember is that this is champagne -- have a good time.
"The holiday is a time to be creative and have fun with drinks as well," Evans says.
Northern Virginia Magazine
February 2008
By Warren Rojas
Forget the musical greeting cards. Skip the gaudy jewelry. Forego the overpriced floral bouquets.
I’m going on record that Valentine’s should be all about sharing.
A candlelit meal. Some furtive glances. Perhaps a few stolen hours spent huddled beneath a woolly blanket while old school crooners fill the air with jazzy boy-meets-girl ballads.
To help us take back this most romantic of nights, we asked celebrated wine writer Natalie MacLean to recommend some choice bottles to make any intimate encounter even more memorable. Because when it comes down to it, we are firm believers in the tenet that no one should drink alone …
THE ICEBREAKER
(First date)
2005 Chateau Ste. Michelle Columbia Valley Chardonnay ($18)
MacLean describes this West Coast white as “lovely, rich and voluptuous,” pointing out the prominent peaches and pears on the nose. “It’s oaky and butter-flavored but not overly so,” she states. “Just the kind of restraint you want to show on a first date.” According to MacLean, this one’s a slam dunk with buttery lobster dishes.
THE ROMANCE-REVIVER
(Amping up that quiet dinner)
2005 Jim Barry The Lodge Hill Shiraz ($25)
A fan of famed Australian winemaker Jim Barry, MacLean notes that, even though Barry passed away in 2004, his children are carrying on the proud family tradition by turning out exemplary wines. “This is a whopper of a wine with full-bodied black fruit aromas and flavors,” she says, and suggests pairing the spicy number with robust meats like steak or bison.
ENDLESS LOVE
(Celebrating the one you’re with)
2003 Domaine Parent Pommard La Croix Blanche ($48)
According to MacLean, this Burgundian pinot noir is all about bottled romance, splashing notes of “floral, dark chocolate, black tea and plum” across the palate and delivering a moderately dry finish. She says to look for aromas of “dark red berries and plums” on the nose and recommends pouring it alongside a mushroom risotto or roast leg of lamb.
THE NIGHTCAP
(A “sexy” send-off to a wonderful evening)
Quinta Do Noval Tawny Reserve Port ($20)
For a post-dinner pour, MacLean likes this traditional Portuguese port, estimating that its five-year blending process helps build the dreamy aromas of “almonds, hazelnut and caramel” inhaled in every glass. So much sweetness requires a worthwhile foil, which is why MacLean suggests keeping mature blue cheeses handy for late-night snacking.
On Milwaukee
June 3, 2008
By Drew Olson
Summer is a time of celebration. Social calendars that seemed so barren just a few weeks ago are suddenly swollen with backyard barbecues, graduation parties, family reunions, tailgate excursions and impromptu get-togethers of all kinds.
Oh, and did we mention weddings?
June is traditionally a big month for weddings, which, when you think about it, are simply summer parties in nicer clothes.
For all of planning that goes into a wedding -- invitations, reception, rehearsal dinner, rings, flowers, formal wear, photography, music -- it's easy to overlook an important element that can play a role in setting the mood for an event.
The wine.
"Toasting with wine to your new life together is a great way to celebrate a marriage," says wine expert Natalie MacLean. "So, don't let the decision be grounds for divorce.
"With so many wine regions and producers today, it's easy to find delicious bottles within any budget."
MacLean, a wine writer and accredited sommelier, is the author of "Red, White and Drunk All Over: A Wine-Soaked Journey from Grape to Glass'" and puts out an e-mail newsletter with more than 87,000 subscribers.
She offered her five tips for picking wine for weddings.
1. Calculate your quantity. The average guest consumes about one to two drinks per hour. A bottle of wine contains about four drinks and a bottle of bubbly has five.
2. Match the meal. Choose versatile wines that are food-friendly and appeal to many palates. The best choices are neither too light nor too heavy. For white wines, try Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc or Pinot Grigio; for reds, Gamay, Pinot Noir or Merlot.
3. Celebrate your history. Personalize your wine choice: pick those made in the country where you (or your ancestors) were born, or perhaps where you met your partner.
4. Offer a mixed bar. Not everyone drinks wine, so offer popular spirits such as gin, rum, scotch and vodka. For non-alcoholic drinks, offer fruit punch, juice, soda or sparkling water. A signature cocktail, created for your wedding, is also a great idea.
5. Raise a glass of liquid pearls. Champagne from France isn't the only bubbly suitable for your wedding toast. Look for sparkling wines from North America, Australia, New Zealand, Spain (Cava) and Italy (Prosecco or Spumante). They're delicious, too, and often less than half the price of Champagne.
MacLean is quick to point out that weddings aren't the only events that should be celebrated with wine. Whether it's a backyard barbecue or a more formal event, MacLean says the key to successful selection is to take a cue from food.
She has an online food-and-wine matcher at her Web site, www.nataliemaclean.com.
Here are some basics from her site:
WHITE WINE AND FOOD MATCHES
Chardonnay: seafood with butter sauce, chicken, pasta with cream sauce, veal, turkey, ham, Emmenthal, Gruyeres, Port-Salut.
Riesling: mild cheese, clams, mussels, Asian dishes, sashimi, ham, pork, lobster Newberg, Tandoori chicken, Coquilles St Jacques.
Sauvignon Blanc: oysters, grilled or poached salmon, seafood salad, Irish stew, ham, chevre, goat cheese and strongly flavored cheeses, asparagus quiche.
Gewurztraminer: spicy dishes, Thai food, curry, smoked salmon, pork and sauerkraut, Muenster, spiced/peppered cheeses, onion tart.
RED WINE AND FOOD MATCHES
Cabernet Sauvignon: duck, spicy beef, pate, rabbit, roasts, spicy poultry, cheddar, blue cheese, sausage, kidneys.
Pinot Noir: braised chicken, cold duck, rabbit, charcuterie, partridge, roasted turkey, roasted beef, lamb, veal, truffles, Gruyeres.
Merlot: braised chicken, cold duck, roasted turkey, roasted beef, lamb, veal, stew, liver, venison, meat casseroles.
Shiraz: braised chicken, chili, goose, meat stew, peppercorn steak, barbequed meat, spicy meats, garlic casserole, and ratatouille.
Online Journalism Review
December 18, 2006
Using Internet publishing to drive book sales
By Sarah Colombo
About six years ago, wine critic Natalie MacLean discovered that text-based e-mail was an efficient way to share the articles she published in regional magazines with colleagues and friends. Thanks to the grassroots nature of the Web, that small group of people began to forward her e-mails to other interested wine buffs until the demand for her current and archived articles became big enough to launch a website, Nat Decants (www.nataliemaclean.com). Now, paired with a sophisticated newsletter 60,000 subscribers strong, this heavily-trafficked, multimedia-friendly and database-rich website has helped her to foster a dedicated audience that extends around the globe.
MacLean credits this online community with both enabling her to increase her opportunities in print and for creating a built-in audience for her new book, "Red, White and Drunk All Over." With the fresh perspective of her recent excursions on a book tour, MacLean chatted with OJR about the ways the Web has created a synergy that expands the voice of this successful, independent wine critic.
Online Journalism Review: Like many independent online journalists, you started your career in the print world. How did the Web become an important medium to expand your audience and distribute your work?
Natalie MacLean: When I was [exclusively] a print journalist and many of my articles appeared in city-based magazines, friends and colleagues who didn’t live in the that particular city couldn’t read the article or buy the magazine on the stand. I retain the copyrights to my work, so I started by e-mailing about 25 folks the articles, which they would forward. Soon there were 200-300 people who were getting these articles, just through text-based e-mail.
OJR: So at what point did you realize you needed to maintain your own website?
MacLean: About a year out, when people who joined [the e-mail list] started asking how they could get all of my previous e-mails. So every time someone joined, I’d be sending 30 e-mails, to pass along all the back issues, so to speak. I thought this is getting silly; I better archive these somewhere, so that’s the birth of the website.
OJR: Do you have any technical knowledge, and did you design the site yourself?
MacLean:Yes, at first I was doing it because I used to work for Silicon Graphics in California and my focus was the Internet. I loved HTML but I’m no wizard and my skills quickly became very rudimentary compared with where websites were going. It wasn’t long before I hired a webmaster, then things just kept evolving. The newsletter kept growing, the website’s content and functionality kept growing, and I started using forms where visitors could sign up for the newsletter.
OJR: Why do you think that niche topics such as yours do so well online?
MacLean: That’s [a reference to] the long-tail theory from Wired Magazine. I just love that theory. There are probably millions of wine lovers out there from all around the world and the brilliant thing is that we find each other on the Internet. So I get stories from wine lovers everywhere, from the night nurse at the emergency ward in Saskatoon to the water reservoir manager in Tulsa. [I’ve heard from] someone in Afghanistan who is making wine in his basement- I think it’s illegal! The Internet is efficient, and it’s also--I put this in quotes--cheap. It’s not cheap to make a good-looking website and to have forms that work and links that don’t go dead, but still I could never reach all of these people in print, cost-wise or time-wise.
OJR: You have a distinct, humorous tone to your writing that makes something as daunting as wine selection more accessible to those of us who aren’t sommeliers. Does your writing voice change online? Can you adopt an even more casual or conversational tone?
MacLean: Yes I think so, although I know 78 people whom I call “Wine Lovers for Better Grammar.” They e-mail me every time there’s a misplaced comma. It’s like this giant editorial board. So it’s that contradictory thing of being relaxed and at the same time having an obsessive level of attention to detail, which is fascinating and helps me clean up my work in print.
OJR: You both write and edit your work, so how do you ensure accuracy when you source and cite information? You’re saying your readers call you out, and not just on grammatical mistakes--
MacLean: But on other things too, yes. They’ll correct anything. I once wrote an article about kir royale—a drink where you infuse any champagne or sparkling wine with the liquor Cassis--that has a black currant flavor. The black currants are famous around the Dijon area of France in Burgundy and I had misspelled a street name. Someone from Dijon contacted me and said that street is close to where I live, and it’s spelled this way.
I get far more corrections online so the feedback has been far more powerful than the print feedback.
OJR: What tool do you use to distribute the newsletter and what does it tell you about who your audience is and how to engage them?
MacLean: It’s called GotCompany.com. It’s a front-end tool and a back-end tool. I think the interface, the aesthetics look beautiful, but really the power is in the database and the reporting tool. It will tell me how many people have opened my newsletter and I can also see who has clicked on what link.
OJR: Can you tell anything about the user demographic?
MacLean: I can tell what topics are most interesting to people by the open rate and which links are most interesting to people. I stay pretty high level, but it’s only because of the time I have to devote to this sort of thing because I have a full-time journalism slate of jobs for print and then I’m just coming off the book.
I do find it synergistic. Every column I write in print, at the bottom there’s a tag that says for Natalie’s free newsletter, visit nataliemaclean.com. Then, of course, I use the newsletter to help sell the book, then point the book to the website, so I make sure that they’re all linked all the time. These days--especially if you’re trying to sell a book--you have to bring the audience, your readership, with you. [Book] publishers [tend to] spend very little on marketing, so you’re the one who has to develop your readership and then keep communicating with them. If I can’t pump out a book every year or two, at least I’ve been communicating with my readers [online] every two weeks in the interim and I hope they’re around the next time a book comes out.
OJR: Your site offers a modest selection of streaming audio and video. How do these multimedia elements advance the functionality of your site?
MacLean: I think people love to watch TV clips and listen to radio interviews, and people [who visit my site] are clicking on them. It’s an expensive form of information because I have to pay for extra bandwidth for no real monetary return. But now I’m starting to post video and audio clips that are interviews about the book.
OJR: So it also becomes a marketing tool--
MacLean: Yes, absolutely. To me it’s part of a multimedia-rich site, and that’s what I want to provide to the best of my budget and the best of my ability.
OJR: You actively encourage user feedback throughout the site. How do you deal with the volume of response and maintain this intimate relationship with your readers?
MacLean: Well, I get a couple of hundred e-mails a day, but a lot of them are questions that I get over and over again, so I’ll refer people to my FAQ. I think it will get to the point where I can’t [respond to everyone] because I have to earn a living and write my columns, but I like the feedback. I encourage it and welcome it and it’s helpful so I try my best to respond to people.
OJR: How do you select which articles you feature on your website or include in the newsletter?
MacLean: I’m more global in my approach. Now I think about which topics will I take on in print that can be repurposed, so it affects what I choose to write about in print and get paid for. In the past, I selected topics such as best restaurants in Ottawa that are really only relevant to people who live in Ottawa. Now I’m more likely to choose a topic like how to choose from a restaurant wine list that everybody can relate to, no matter where they live.
OJR: You run some Google ads, but otherwise ads aren’t featured prominently on your website.
MacLean: It [earns] three bucks a day for Google ads. That won’t even buy cheap wine! I’m going to look at adding advertising in the next year for related products and services that I think are reputable. I won’t be personally endorsing them. It will be clear that they’re ads and I’ll have someone else handle the booking, payment and invoicing so if a winery wants to advertise, I’m not the one negotiating ad rates while they’re also sending me bottles to review.
OJR: Finally, can you recommend some ways to choose a great holiday wine?
MacLean: Sure! All of my wine picks are on my website. It’s also a matter of your budget and whether you like wines that are full-bodied, medium or light. Develop a relationship with a knowledgeable person at your local wine store and ask what they’re excited about. Also, you can buy a mixed case of 12 within your budget and experiment. Try a new one each time you want to crack open a bottle and I’m sure you’ll find at least two or three that you really like.
Ontario Wine Society
February 2007
By Glen Siegel
I spoke with Natalie MacLean on the telephone from her home in Ottawa one afternoon in early January about her new book “Red, White and Drunk All Over, A Wine-Soaked Journey from Grape to Glass”. What doesn’t come across in these words is the laughter and fun that followed.
OWS: Some of the chapters from your book are related to the content on your website and electronic Newsletter. Is it harder to write for a book as opposed to the website? How is it different?
NM: It is different but not harder to write a chapter in a book instead of an article for a website. I think of it as being similar to the difference between a sprint and a marathon: both are running but you have to approach the two events quite differently. An article is about 1,000 words, more or less. With a chapter for a book you can go 6,000 to 12,000 words which allows you to dig deeper into the subject. You can cover have more layers of content and you can get more deeply involved with your subject matter. You can have more character development; address more issues such as the history and the food of the area. It’s not harder or better, it’s just different. You also have to adjust when you go back to writing articles.
OWS: This book could also have been called “Adventures On the Wine Route” if Kermit Lynch hadn’t already used the title. Which came first – the idea of writing a book or the ideas for the various adventures?
NM: It was half and half. I’ve been writing for 8 years for my website and electronic newsletter. The articles that interested me most were about stories where I participated directly in them, where I was learning something. The experience is richer when you are writing, the closer you can get to real life. In addition, it was always these articles where I got the best feedback from my readers. When the editor approached me about writing a book, I started to consider what I wanted to write about. I realized
that it was the story telling that was interesting and more fun.
OWS: In the Afterward, you mention that you didn’t want to write a book that needed to be updated. Is this why there are no specific time references in this book although there are some time markers such as your reference to the movie “Sideways”?
NM: Part of that is for the shelf-life of the book. I wanted it to age well. It was part of the narrative process that the stories be timeless. I might update this eventually, but there is no real reason to do this.
OWS: In the book, you jump from Burgundy to California and then back to Champagne. Why did you use this order? I’m assuming that you traveled to both Burgundy and Champagne at the same time.
NM: Yes, I did. I considered starting with California but decided to started in the old world, where wine making started. I started with an old world red wine region, Burgundy, and then went to the new world wine region of California to show the differences in the attitudes and approaches to wine-making. I wanted to compare still wines before I went on to sparkling wines, wine critics and the wine business. When I was speaking with California’s Randall Grahm from Bonny Doon Vineyards, he references old world wines and attitudes. It only made sense to start in the old world to give his comments some context.
OWS: Speaking of the old world, how do you get to go into places like Domaine de la Romanée-Conti (DRC) and Domaine Leroy? I’m sure you don’t just call them up and ask if you can drop in.
NM: No, you don’t! I worked through SOPEXA, the marketing firm for many French companies. I’m
extremely grateful to DRC and Madame Bize-Leroy for taking the time to see me. They don’t need the publicity and they can’t open their places to everyone as they don’t have enough wine available to do that. But, like so many people in the wine business, they are very hospitable and very generous with their time. By welcoming me into their wineries, I think they really welcomed all my readers into their lives.
OWS: The Introduction and the first chapter “The Good Earth” are more sensual than the rest. For example, you describe Burgundy’s Côte D’Or as being “a graceful arc, like the curve between a woman’s shoulders and hips”. You also mention the suppleness of the 2003 Nuits-St-Georges as feeling like unseen hands pulling “a velvet dress over my head and down over my breast and hips, until the hem brushes my thighs.” I was reading this on the subway and I blushed!! Do you have a special affinity for Burgundy, both the place and the wine?
NM: (A great deal of laughter followed my question.) Yes!! Pinot Noir is my favourite wine but I found that the Burgundy region resonated with me even though it was the dead of winter. It’s truly special! I also write from a woman’s perspective. Some writers, like Robert Parker, tend to be over analytical while other, like Jancis Robinson and myself, write about how the wine makes them feel. Some things can’t be, or shouldn’t be, analyzed. They should be experienced.
OWS: In one chapter you talk about a feud between Robert Parker and Jancis Robinson about a specific wine, the 2003 Château Pavie. It seems that Parker rated with wine very highly, between 96 and 100, while Robinson gave the wine a 12 out of 20. Have you tried this wine? If so, what did you think of it?
NM: I tried earlier vintages. I couldn’t try the 2003 as my manuscript was due before the 2003 was bottled. It’s definitely a turbo wine, very fruit driven. As 2003 was a very hot year, I would expect that it was even more fruit driven.
OWS: While talking about food and wine and dinner parties, you talk about “decantists”, those who feel that most or all wines benefit from being exposed to oxygen by being poured into a decanter before drinking, and “bottlists”, those who feel that decanting can be harmful. You seem to be a decantist. Was there a specific incident or wine that triggered this?
NM: It was an evolutionary process that reflects my personal preferences. I experimented with decanting wines and now I decant big reds like Cabs. I don’t decant Pinot Noir. Really big reds not only get decanted, but they might get double-decanted, that is, decanted and then decanted into another decanter. For a really huge red, I will pour the first glass well before dinner so that it gets the full effect of the oxygen in the wine glasses.
OWS: There is not a lot of mention of Canadian wines in this book although you talk about them on your website. Where do you see Canadian wines in relation to the rest of the world? Are our best good enough?
NM: Yes, we rate up there with the best internationally. The quality of our wines is right up there where they should be.
OWS: Do you have a secret, or not so secret, desire to make wine or did it get burned out of your system in California?
NM: No, I don’t but if I did, picking grapes in the California sun certainly would have cured me of it.
OWS: Now for the Desert Island question. If you had only one wine, or the wine from one grape to drink forever, which would it be?
NM: DRC! Having met the winemaker, I feel a more personal involvement with the wine. I think that actually going to the wine making regions, meeting the people, seeing the vines, tasting the grapes, gives you a whole new perspective on wine. It gives you a much deeper appreciation of the wine. – Wait a second…. Do I have to pay for the wine? If so, pinot noir. If not, DRC!
OWS: Do you have another book project in mind? If so, what is it?
NM: Yes but with a much longer time line. This book was written in two years. I had to give up writing for
everything but my regular writing to focus on the book. I really love journalism as it is a deeply satisfying
experience although you spend 80% of your time alone. My website newsletter has over 62,000 readers. With that, I get wonderful feedback which gives me a real and immediate connection to my readers. I’m not sure what my next book project will be but I expect that it will take around 5 years.
REVIEWED BY GLEN SIEGEL
Natalie MacLean’s book is an account of her adventures in the wine world over the past few years. She takes us into Domaine de le Romanée-Conti to look at traditional, old world wine making and then next door to discuss biodynamics with Lalou Bize-Leroy and Anne-Clause Laflaive. After that, she’s off to California to talk to new world vintners and to bake in the California sun while picking grapes.
MacLean also takes us with her while she visits “The Jug Shop”, a wine store in San Francisco where she meets Chuck Hayward, one of the area’s most knowledgeable wine experts and then she’s off to actually work in Discovery Wines, a wine store in the upscale Village in New York City. In between the two stores, she also talks about selling wine, the changing attitudes towards wine and the trend away from corks. She discusses, in one chapter, correct glassware, why you need it and how to hold a wine-tasting in your home. Although this might sound a little unfocused, it’s more like good conversation, one topic flows into the next and the ideas connect effortlessly.
MacLean’s account of her day as an “undercover sommelier” at La Baccara, an award winning restaurant in
Québec will bring a tired smile to many sommeliers’ faces as MacLean admits that the job is not nearly as easy as a good sommelier makes the job look. She points out sommeliers are the “gentle persuaders” of the wine world whose job is to convince the customer that “she is worth treating herself to that special bottle.” When you share a special bottle of wine with friends, you tell them a story about your visit to the winery or when you met the winemaker. This book is a story book. Each chapter stands by itself which makes this an easy book to read. You can read one chapter and put the book down, then come back to it later.
Orillia Packet and Times
April 10, 2008
By Judy Creighton
The Orillia Packet and Times published the same story as the London Free Press.
Orlando Sentinel
January 16, 2008
By Bill Daley
The Orlando Sentinel published the same story as the Chicago Tribune.
Ottawa Citizen
November 22, 2007
What do high-profile Canadians want under the tree this Christmas?
By Flannery Dean
The Ottawa Citizen published the same story as the The National Post.
Ottawa Citizen
November 29, 2009
By Joanne Sasvari
It used to be so simple: Red wine went with red meat, white wine went with white meat, and that, essentially, was that when it came to pairing food and wine.
These days, it's a bit more complex. For one thing, wines are being made in more styles and more regions than ever before. For another, our diets now include flavours from all over the world as well as casual fare that once we would never have dreamed of enjoying with wine.
The old rules don't always apply. But what has replaced them? Are there any rules at all? Well, yes there are.
"What you want to look for is body and you want to look for acidity levels," says Jacob Luksic, sommelier at Epic restaurant at Toronto's Fairmont Royal York hotel. "You always want to have balance."
"The fundamental principles are matching intensity of food and wine," adds Robert Stelmachuk, sommelier at Market by Jean-Georges in Vancouver's Shangri-La Hotel.
In addition, he notes, there are two basic approaches to pairings: echo and contrast.
"Echo" means replicating the flavours of the food with the wine by, for instance, matching a creamy pasta dish with a buttery Chardonnay.
"Contrast" means emphasizing the flavours of the food with a wine that's markedly different, such as pairing fruity Port with salty blue cheese.
"Some people get caught up with finding the one perfect wine for their dish," says Natalie MacLean, the Ottawa-based editor of the top-ranked site on Google for wine and food, www.nataliemaclean.com. "The first thing to do is have a drink and relax. Play with different pairings, find the one that works for you. The perfect pairing, of course, is between you and the wine you like."
Call it "pairing with flair." Today's casual and fusion menus lend themselves to some exciting matches. Take pizza and burgers, for example. "With a pizza, I want something big and juicy, and it's the same with a burger," Luksic says. "What I always have is a beautiful Zinfandel. You can't beat a big, bold Zinfandel. There's nothing else I would bring to a barbecue."
Asian food, with its complex interplay of sweet, salty, sour, bitter and spicy, can also be a challenge to match.
"If you like it nice and spicy, you want to work with something with a bit of residual sugar," Luksic says when asked to recommend a wine to go with, say, pad thai. "My favourite is Gewurztraminer."
Indian curries, with their deep, richer flavours, also require a bit of sweetness and fruitiness in the glass, and nothing too boozy, even if you opt for a red.
"You don't want something with too much alcohol because it raises the heat in your mouth," Luksic says. "You don't want a big Cabernet Sauvignon. I would go with something light, something fruit forward like a Gamay or a Beaujolais."
Salty ones, which tend to dry out our mouths, are also a challenge to match. The best matches for salty foods, MacLean says, are wines "with bright acidity and mouth-watering berry ripe-ness like Pinot Noir from the New World."
Or bubbles. Sparkling wine is perhaps the most versatile category of wine, pairing neatly with almost anything except chocolate.
"Oh, definitely," Luksic says. "In my opinion sparkling wine goes with everything."
Stelmachuk agrees. "One of my favourite food and beverage pairings is a really good dish of frites and a glass of Champagne. It's brilliant together."
Ottawa Citizen
November 29, 2009
By Joanne Sasvari
Few things go together as naturally, simply and deliciously as wine and cheese. The question is, what kind of wine? And what kind of cheese? Pairing the two is more complex than you might think.
"No rules apply because we all taste things differently," says Alice Spurrell, owner of Les Amis du Fromage cheese shops in Vancouver as well as the cheese-themed restaurant Au Petit Chavignol.
"The best thing is to be adventurous and just try a cheese with a wine. You want a good taste in your mouth. And the only way to discover that is to put them in your mouth together."
There are some classic pairings that always work, like Stilton with Port. Then again, Spurrell says, "We used to pair cheese with red wine, but now we know that most cheese goes with white wine."
So where does a wine-and-cheese-lover start? With the basics, of course.
Wine and cheese, it seems, have a lot more in common than just a shared place near the end of the meal.
"Wine and cheese both ferment, from natural yeast or bacteria, respectively," says Natalie MacLean, editor of the food-and-wine website www.nataliemaclean.com.
"They both result in controlled decomposition, which may not sound appetizing, but it all results in an amazing range of flavours in both products."
In addition, both wine and cheese makers are returning to the organic production techniques they followed for millennia before the advent of chemically assisted farming. So when it comes to cheese and organic wine, she says, "I would think that would be a good pairing."
Other pairings aren't so obvious: There are so many varieties of both, with an equally broad range of flavours.
There are hundreds, if not thousands of different cheeses, ranging from the mildest mozzarella to pungent Epoisse, buttery triple-cream brie, nutty Manchego, sharp cheddar and tangy blue-veined Stilton.
"There's so much variety, even though it comes from the same ingredients," says Spurrell. "It's a whole little world that's wonderfully tasty."
"Mild cheeses -- like goat cheese and fresh mozzarella -- are among the easiest to match," MacLean advises.
"They have the lightest flavours so they're not going to compete with the wine. They go beautifully with a light, crisp, white wine like a Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Grigio or Riesling."
As for pairing red wines, which we once thought went so well with cheese, that's a bit more tricky. The most important thing is to watch the balance: big, bold reds can overpower lighter cheeses, while light-bodied reds can disappear against a powerful fromage -- a fortified wine like Port, sherry or Madeira might actually be a better choice.
Here are just a few perfect pairings:
- Triple-creme brie: Lusciously fruity whites or reds, like Chardonnay or Bordeaux, as well as bubbles, pair well with this buttery-rich cheese.
- Stilton and other blue cheeses: Port is the classic match for strong blue cheese, while milder blues go nicely with fruit-forward reds.
- Chevre: Crisp, aromatic white wines like Riesling or Sauvignon Blanc complement the light creaminess of fresh goat cheese.
- Gruyère: This nutty, mushroomy hard cheese marries well with full-bodied reds such as Shiraz and Zinfandel.
- Cheddar: This firm, tangy cheese plays nicely with a variety of wines, including Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon.
If still in doubt, ask the experts at your local cheese shop. Ultimately, it comes down to personal preference -- and the company you keep.
MacLean says, "My favourite wine and cheese match? A buttery Chardonnay with macaroni and cheese -- when I'm dining with my 11-year-old son."
Ottawa Citizen
October 31, 2009
By Natalie MacLean
Something a bit scary happens when Halloween falls on a weekend: The one night a year when kids have carte blanche in the sugar department somehow turns into party time for parents.
Every year, we help ourselves to our offspring's trick-or-treating haul (it's nothing short of our due, really), but we don't usually wash down a mini roll of Rolos with a rum and Coke -- unless it's a Saturday night.
So we figured, this year, we might as well be prepared. Since it's likely that after the children have crashed from their sugar high we'll be enjoying a grown-up beverage with our childish treats, we want to know: What wine goes with Coffee Crisp?
THE WINE: PORT
Here's what our wine 'matcher' Natalie MacLean has to say:
Count Dracula said, "I never drink ... wine." But for those of us who don't enjoy his beverage of choice, wine is the way to go -- even with Halloween treats.
In between doorbell chimes, I like to polish off those mini chocolate bars with a glass of Graham's 10 Year Old Tawny Port (LCBO No. 206508, $27.95). This Portuguese dessert wine, with its river of almond and toffee flavour, complements the coffee "nuances" in Coffee Crisp as well as the toasted rice "accents" in Crispy Crunch.
The wine's voluptuous body and texture encases these little treats and makes them melt in your mouth -- an excellent reason to have a spare bag of them stashed in the closet.
Ports are fortified wines with extra alcohol (this one has 20 per cent), so a little goes a long way; you only need a few ounces per serving. (Though how many servings you have is up to you, of course.) An open bottle will keep for a couple of weeks, so you can enjoy this after-dinner drink in the chilly days ahead.
Some oenophiles might also pair chocolate with a full-bodied dry red wine, such as an Italian amarone or sangiovese (which is seasonal since it translates to "blood of Jove"). However, I prefer my wine to be sweeter than my dessert; otherwise, it can taste bitter by comparison. However, my top choice is still port, with its nutty, caramel-infused finish.
The bonus is that port is incredibly versatile. It will also work with Tootsie Rolls, gummy bears, and even those rock-hard, enamel-chipping candy kisses.
Ottawa Citizen (2)
February 9, 2008
By Karen Turner
Forget meaningless one-night stands. An increasing number of Canadians are having a hot and heavy love affair with wine -- a passion that rages on, long after the red roses have wilted and the Valentine chocolates are gone. According to Statistics Canada, "the intake of wine has continued to increase over the last 10 years reaching 13.9 litres (per person) in 2006."
Ottawa wine writer Natalie MacLean says in the last two years alone, wine consumption has increased seven to eight per cent, edging out beer as the alcoholic drink of choice.
"Definitely, it's trending up," says MacLean, author of the award-winning Red, White and Drunk All Over, who attributes the rise in wine drinking to the increasing popularity of in-home wine cellars.
From handy under-counter coolers in the kitchen to large humidity- and temperature-controlled rooms in the basement with moody lighting, stone floors and custom-fitted racking, wine storing options are as varied as the oenophile's palate.
"Wine cellars can range from simple racks from IKEA in a closet that is cool and dark for a couple hundred dollars -- to $50,000 for the den of Dionysus (the god of wine)," says MacLean, editor of a free online wine newsletter. "Consumption and budget will drive decisions."
At C.A. Paradis on Bank Street, dishwasher-size wine cabinets that hold 50 bottles start around $799. For owners of larger wine collections with bigger bucks to spend, there are upright fridges with multiple temperature settings and high-grade compressors to maintain humidity and elaborate furniture-style cabinets featuring vacuum-sealed wooden doors with textured glass inserts that run as high as $10,000.
"We offer solutions for people just starting out to those who have extensive collections," says retail manager Candace Diaz who admits Ottawans have a strong love connection with wine. "It's becoming more of a passion."
To help determine what a customer needs, Doug Gerro, sommelier at C.A. Paradis, says he asks two key questions: How much space do you have in your home to store wine and how many bottles of wine do you want to store?
Other important considerations to keep in mind are the length of time you plan to keep your wines in storage -- just a few days or will you hang on to them several years? -- and how much surplus space you'll need to expand your private stash, Gerro says.
"You want to be able to add to your collection so you have to have space to grow."
Though not intended for long-term storage, built-in wine coolers and fridges are gaining popularity in kitchens. Ottawa designer Ernst Hupel estimates "in nine out of the 10 kitchens we do, we're incorporating under-counter wine fridges."
It all comes down to convenience and having easy access to your favourite bottle of Sauvignon Blanc at the end of an exhausting day.
"Wine fridges are being used as much as we're using microwaves," Hupel says. "After a long day at work, a good bottle of wine is a nice reward."
When it comes to cellaring wine, location is crucial, says Rolf Thorhauge, owner of Rolf's Wine Cellars, a small company he and his wife Charlene run out of their Barrhaven home.
"You have to keep the wine in dark spaces where the sun don't shine," says Thorhauge, a retired RCMP inspector who has been designing and building basement wine cellars for the past 12 years.
But forget about tossing a few cases of Chianti in a cold storage room under the front porch.
"It has to be a temperature-controlled space," insists Thorhauge, who says the ideal temperature for aging wine ranges between 10*C and 13*C.
His cellars, which start around $8,500, are fully insulated, panelled in pine or oak and with ceramic tile floors. Redwood racks, which he orders from Vintage Keeper in Toronto, are custom fit to the space and cradle the bottles horizontally to keep the corks from drying out.
Cooling units, which retail for about $600, are installed to control the room's temperature and humidity levels and the cellar is vented into the house rather than outside to prevent drastic temperature fluctuations during the changing seasons.
For do-it-yourselfers, C.A. Paradis sells two styles of racking. There are wire racks commonly found in liquour stores or restaurants and natural redwood racking that is resistant to rot and odourless to prevent smells from leaching into the wines.
Costs are determined by the number of bottles: the wood racking ranges from about $1.50 to $8 a bottle while the wire racks sell for $3 to $4 a bottle.
Gerro cautions against installing racks in small niches under the basement stairs to cellar wines because the vibration of going up and down the steps will affect the aging process.
"It's not a quiet space," he says.
Note: Please see the story below this one for more information on wine cellars.
Ottawa Citizen (3)
February 9, 2008
Passion for wine
By Karen Turner
What began as a home-improvement project has turned into a small business for Rolf and Charlene Thorhauge, who design and build about four cellars a year.
When Rolf Thorhauge retired from the RCMP in 1993, he knew exactly what he wanted to do with his new-found freedom: build himself a wine cellar.
The keep-busy, home-improvement project soon morphed into a full-time, home-based business for Thorhauge and his wife Charlene.
Now in operation for 12 years, the owners of Rolf's Wine Cellars design and build on average three to four basement cellars a year for customers across the city.
"It is a luxury," admits Thorhauge of the temperature-controlled walk-ins that he customizes by using redwood racking, tile floors, pine- or oak-covered walls and subdued lighting. Prices, including all materials and labour, start at about $8,500. "You have to have a disposable income to afford a wine cellar," he says to describe his affluent clientele. "You also have to like wine."
In the basement of their new Cardel bungalow in Barrhaven's prestigious Stonebridge community, the Thorhauges recently completed a large cellar wrapped with racks to hold up to 1,500 bottles of wine.
Chocolate beams criss-cross the ceiling and sheets of oak line the walls. Track lighting on dimmer switches washes the bottles in a soft glow and a stained-glass shade suspends from the ceiling above a small wine-tasting table that juts into the centre of the room.
To provide flexible storage space, there is a mix of diamond-shaped racks, wide-open shelves and floor-to-ceiling slots that can accommodate bottles of champagne or wine. A compact cooling unit hums quietly high above the room, keeping the temperature at a constant 13*C.
Ottawa designer André Godin is no wine connoisseur, but he clearly knows his way around a wine cellar. Godin recently designed five basement cellars -- four in estate houses in Ottawa and one in a renovated home in the Upper Ottawa Valley town of Eganville.
"It's definitely a very popular trend," says the soft-spoken designer, who created an Old World ambience by incorporating stone walls, limestone or slate floors and custom racking and open shelving for storing expensive collections of Merlot and Chardonnay. "People are really into drinking wine. They're also well-travelled. It's a lifestyle thing."
Some of the higher-end cellars include separate seating areas for hosting wine-tasting parties, rolling ladders to reach ceiling-sweeping shelves and a high-performance ventilation system so owners and their guests can smoke fat stogies while sipping their favourite red or white.
"We've become much more sophisticated about wines," says Ernst Hupel to explain the increased demand for wine cellars, as well as more affordable wine storage options, such as small wine rooms retrofitted under the basement stairs, built-in wine racks in the kitchen and under-counter wine coolers and fridges. "Our senses are being heightened to the finer luxuries of life."
In an über-modern condo hovering high above downtown Ottawa, Hupel designed a Tuscan-style wine cellar complete with raw slate floors and floor-to-ceiling racks made of weathered wood that hold hundreds of bottles of wine.
"It was a juxtaposition to the rest of the condo," says the co-owner of 2H Interior Design of the rustic cellar located at the end of a long, sleek hallway. "The cellar looks like a ruin found in Europe."
A custom wood door with iron and glass detailing draws attention to the cellar entrance, while inside Hupel visually expanded the room by installing mirrors behind the custom racks.
"One bottle looks like four bottles," says the award-winning designer of the simple design trick he repeatedly uses to make even the smallest wine room look and feel larger.
Rather than add a table and chairs for wine-tasting -- "No one wants to spend time in their cellars because it's too cold" -- Hupel placed an old wine barrel topped with glass in the middle of the room. It's here the host can prepare two or three bottles before serving.
Eight years ago, Ottawa wine writer Natalie MacLean and her husband Andrew Waitman had a custom wine cabinet built for their Crystal Beach home. Wine collectors since 1994, the couple needed space to store their growing collection, but since their ranch-style home sits on solid bedrock, a basement cellar was out of the question.
"Building an underground cave wasn't an option for us," says MacLean, who opted for a hand-carved cabinet made of Brazilian mahogany and North American madrone burl topped with wide crown mouldings and a ribbed clamshell. Two columns, intricately carved with twisting grapevines, flank the main cooler, which is finished inside with sturdy redwood to resist rot and mildew and prevent odours from leaching into the wines. "We wanted something beautiful to go with our furniture. We didn't want it to look like a sterile fridge," says MacLean.
Over the last four to five years, Ottawa designer Chuck Mills has seen a steady demand for built-in wine storage -- from simple wine racks on the side of a kitchen island to full-scale cellars with custom shelving, sophisticated cooling systems and textured stone floors. When it comes to enjoying wine, convenience is key.
"Having it at hand is an advantage," says Mills, who incorporates built-in racks into most of the kitchens he designs, "as long as you keep it out of direct sunlight and in a cool temperature to avoid spoiling the wine."
Mills, who has taken wine and food pairing classes and visited vineyards in Greece and Portugal, has a built-in wine cabinet with space for 18 bottles in his own kitchen. Though he admits wine is only stored in the racks for short periods of time, the central location means he doesn't have to run up and down the stairs when company comes for dinner.
"I buy more exclusively for consumption," quips the budding wine aficionado, who designed a main-floor wine room for an upscale bungalow near Manotick with 12-foot high wood racks, a rolling ladder and an electronic screen that silently descends in front of the glass entry door to protect the homeowner's cherished collection of French and Italian wines from damaging UV rays.
"Our generation seems to have a strong appreciation for the finer things in life," says Mills. "We love our wine."
Cheers to that.
Ottawa Citizen (4)
March 9, 2008
By Chris Cobb
Marilyn Merlot and Jailhouse Red aren't high-end plonk, but they are among the better-known and widely consumed Marilyn and Elvis selections -- celebrity wines with a hint of exploitation, a heavy aroma of kitsch and a nose for profit.
Celebrity wines are in, to judge by this growing list: Madonna, Wayne Gretzky, Dan Aykroyd, Mike Weir, Tommy Lasorda, Jerry Garcia, Bob Dylan, Mariah Carey, Lorraine Bracco, Larry Bird, Fess Parker, Francis Ford Coppola, Greg Norman, Ernie Els, Gérard Depardieu, Olivia Newton-John, Barbra Streisand, Sting, Mario Andretti, Michael Schumacher, Paris Hilton, Cliff Richard, Steven Seagal, Sam Neill and Mötley Crüe frontman Vince Neil.
The Gretzky and the Aykroyd were among the top 10 bestselling wines of 2007, according to the Liquor Control Board of Ontario, the largest single wine buyer in the world.
LCBO, which sells about 121 million cases of wine annually, figures that over 12 months it will sell 11,000 cases of the new Aykroyd wines, or more than $1.7 million worth. Ahead of the Booze Brother is The Great One's grog with predicted sales of 18,000 cases or $2.7 million.
Spokesman Chris Layton says all new celebrity wines have been selling well and significantly better than new, non-celebrity brands. In 34 weeks, the two Aykroyd wines (Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot) have accounted for more than $1 million in sales. After 16 weeks, the two Gretzky wines (unoaked Chardonnay and Merlot) have done even better. The Weir wines are also big sellers, sold in Vintages with Greg Normans, Fess Parkers and Gérard Depardieus.
This new frontier is divided between celebs who wouldn't know a Château Latour from a Château Laurier and genuine connoisseurs, like Els and Coppola, who guide the process from vine to bottle. Then there are the likes of Sopranos' star Bracco. She doesn't produce the wine but rather is a discerning importer of Tuscany tipple with more than a passing interest in what's in the bottles emblazoned with her name.
Celebrity wines sell because most mainstream wine buyers are intimidated by the down-your-nose snobbery of sniffy people who have, or claim to have, greater knowledge than they do. Most purchase wine based solely on the label -- hence the proliferation of celebrity endorsement and, incidentally, critters. Kangaroos, pigs, roosters, bears and monkeys have done wonders for wine sales. If it's OK by Madonna, Mariah Carey or Wayne Gretzky or some other celebrity we admire, it's OK by us.
"We live in a celebrity age and wine remains a mysterious product for many people," says Ottawa wine writer Natalie MacLean. "We're not confident enough to buy based on our own palates, so we get lured in by star power. And it's kind of fun to give a golfing buddy a bottle of Greg Norman. It's the same reason a lot of people buy Fat Bastard -- it has a fun name."
But, says MacLean, the wine must deliver. "Wine is one of the few products you can't test or taste before you buy it," she says. (MacLean, who writes a wine newsletter at www.nataliemaclean.com, tastes between 400 and 500 each month.)
"You can read the first chapter of a book, or try on a dress, but generally you can't sample wine in store before you buy it. So it has to taste good or you're not going to buy it twice."
The average price Canadians pay for a bottle of wine is $10. So, except on special occasions, this puts out of reach the more serious celebrity wines like a Francis Ford Coppola at $30 or $40 a bottle.
At the lower end, competition is fierce, especially when merchants are fighting for space on the monopolistic shelves of the LCBO. "There are more than one million wine producers worldwide, and they have to get noticed somehow," MacLean explains. "Using celebrities is as good a way as any, but people won't be lured by star power if the wine doesn't fall within their price range."
The earliest known wine labels were found in Egypt. Carved in stone, they detailed who and how the wine was made, says Diane Dobry of New York's Columbia University. Labels as we now know them appeared around 1860 when glue was developed that could adhere them to bottles. Information-only labels were more or less the norm until the 1980s when more and more common folk started to imbibe.
"Wine drinking became less of an elite practice," says Dobry. "But the greater the mass wine drinkers were not as educated about wine. So making eye-catching labels was necessary so that wines could compete. That has increasingly brought them into the realm of pop culture, especially as wine drinking has becomes more popular with young people."
Dobry has begun her own business importing Hungarian wine. For a year, she's been trying to get Zsa Zsa Gabor to endorse one of the her sparkling wines. "She would be ideal." So far, no response.
Celebrity wines are "the next new marketing oasis," says Gary Vaynerchuk, host of The Thunder Show webcast.
"It's a Holy Grail opportunity for celebrities to build their own personal brand. Unlike beer and liquor, wine is the brand of a higher lifestyle," he says. "For a celebrity, the cost of entry is also very low. It's very easy for a Larry Bird, Mariah Carey or Madonna to say 'I like drinking it' and they have instant credibility for millions of people."
Vaynerchuk, who markets himself as a wine expert for the common Joe, draws about 60,000 viewers daily -- many from Canada. He owns a wine store in New Jersey and is a regular on high-profile TV talk shows. Celebrities, he predicts, will be adorning even more of our wine bottles. "But many are business whores concerned about selling a million bottles and don't care what's inside."
All that said, he warns that you shouldn't judge a celebrity vintage by its label. "JayZee or whomever can have the gaudiest wine label out there, but if the wine rocks, it's going to be a winner. For me, it's going to be a fun journey trying all these."
Vaynerchuk's current favourite is Ernie Els' South African wine. "He is making a small quantity of high quality stuff," he says. "It's not cheap -- $30 to $70 -- but he cares about the quality. He's deeply into it."
Watch for even more unlikely celebs to be renting out their images to sell plonk, says Vaynerchuk. "It's going to get worse -- or better, depending on how you look at it."
Online video
Who has legs? Which one is rich? Who is robust and complex?
Find out as wine writer Natalie MacLean, right, evaluates a flight of celebrity wine.
Ottawa Citizen (5)
November 1, 2008
By Kate Parsons
Ottawa has become a city with a passion for the grape.
You see it in the growing number of restaurants offering menus and special dinners paired with wine and the longer wine lists at even small eateries. A record crowd -- 26,000 last year -- is expected to attend next week's annual Ottawa Food and Wine Show.
"I don't know of one new restaurant that doesn't have a sommelier and the intention to make wine a major part of what it offers," says Victor Harradine, director of partnerships and outreach for Algonquin College's sommelier certificate program.
Indeed, it's that program that has helped to fuel the city's burgeoning interest in wine. "The Algonquin program has been fundamental in raising the bar for Ottawa wine culture," says Natalie MacLean, a 1998 graduate and author of Red, White, and Drunk All Over. "Its graduates have a deep appreciation for the field, from the nuances of winemaking to what constitutes good service in restaurants."
Since its inception in 1993, Algonquin's program has graduated more than 600 certified wine experts and hundreds more have taken classes.
"Most wine schools find it challenging to fill one entire class," says Harradine. "Our courses run all year -- fall, winter and summer. We fill classes five evenings a week, often a class on Saturday morning, and a class all day Monday." And that's without putting out a single advertisement.
But it's not just sommeliers who are improving the city's wine scene. Consumers are more knowledgeable and are looking for more than just a standard bottle of red or white.
"More than 10,000 wine lovers from Ottawa alone subscribe to my newsletter (www.nataliemaclean.com), and I hear from them daily via e-mail," says MacLean. "They're absolutely passionate about wine."
From downtown to Kanata and Barrhaven, wine-savvy residents are demanding more from restaurants as consumers and are providing more as business owners and staff. Harradine notes that about 35 to 40 per cent of the sommelier program's grads work in the hospitality industry. Presumably the rest are applying their knowledge to the other side of the table.
Caroline Gosselin, owner of Restaurant e18teen in the ByWard Market and a 2006 sommelier program graduate, has also noticed more people in the industry are "capitalizing on wine."
She has developed an impressive wine program with an inventory of 250 labels and 3,000 bottles. Five of her staff have been certified as sommeliers, four by the Algonquin program.
All these sommeliers help Gosselin meet the increased demand for wine advice that she has noticed since opening in 2001. "Exchanges between customers and servers or sommeliers have become much more interactive around wine, and food too."
Beckta Dining and Wine sommelier and service manager Pieter Van den Weghe, a 2004 Algonquin graduate, notes a similar phenomenon. "Our customers often want to be shown new things, to explore. Many see their dining experience as a learning experience, and they're excited about it."
Also gone are the days when a restaurant offered just two wines by the glass -- house red and house white. The Algonquin program requires its students to taste beyond the ubiquitous cabernets, merlots and chardonnays. By the time a graduate completes the program's seven classes, he or she will have tasted hundreds of wines made from dozens of different grape varieties and will have spent many hours studying how to match them with food.
So, it's no great surprise to find menu standards have been raised.
The desire to learn about connections between wine and food is growing in all segments of the population, even among younger drinkers.
"Wine used to be for older folks who listened to classical music. Now it is the drink of choice for all ages," observes Tracy Turnbull, a 2008 sommelier program graduate and owner of Trio Lounge in Westboro and the Moonroom, a new wine bar on Preston Street.
This expanded knowledge is changing not only what bars and restaurants offer but what consumers find at the LCBO, specifically in the fine-wine-focused Vintages section. John MacKinnon, who oversees business development for Vintages' Ottawa market, points to double-digit growth, with last year's $300 million in sales setting a record for the province.
MacKinnon sees Ottawa's interest in fine wine and food as part of a larger trend toward living healthier lifestyles and exploring quality beverages, with consumers in their 20s "drinking better, having wider experience with wines and beers, and relying a lot less on brand loyalty."
It's not only the downtown heavy hitters like Beckta and e18teen that are answering the fine-wine call but places you might not expect.
Ron Spirito, owner of the Radisson Hotel Tex-Mex restaurant Southern Cross and a 2008 sommelier program grad, is planning food and wine pairing events with the Canadian and Latin American Wine Society. "The Southern Cross is growing up," explains Spirito. "After 17 years of slinging burritos and nachos, we have begun a slow transition in a new direction -- a direction all about wine and freshly prepared foods."
Ozlem Balpinar, co-owner of Oz Kafe on Elgin Street, discovered that her customers' tastes in wine were growing up when they began to request "higher end wines" to go with the high-end food prepared by chef Jamie Stunt. A revamped wine list is in the works.
Impressive wine lists are expanding beyond the confines of Ottawa's well-known eatery neighbourhoods and into the suburbs. Fiamma on Strandherd Drive serves a list of 35 wines by the bottle (including some 10-year-old Barolos). Once you get past the Barrhaven strip mall location and into the hip, warm space, the number of bottles lining the wall is sure to impress.
Fratelli restaurants has expanded from the Glebe and Westboro to Kanata and New Edinburgh, taking its list of nearly 100 wines with it.
And of course one of the area's premiere fine wine and dining establishments is in Kanata -- Perspectives restaurant at Brookstreet hotel. Perspectives sommelier Grayson McDiarmid, who received his training in Calgary, says more than half of the restaurant's customers ask to speak to a sommelier.
"A lot of my night is usually spent pairing wines with our tasting menu," says McDiarmid. "This would have to be my favourite part of the job because I get to discuss my pairings with people who really care, people who are there for a dining experience, not just a meal."
To meet higher expectations, many restaurants are going well beyond the LCBO to procure their wines. Perspectives' wine list includes more than 200 wines, not one of which can be found at the LCBO.
While Perspectives' wine list might be somewhat unusual, most establishments want to offer patrons something they can't get elsewhere, which is where wine agents like Aaron Shaw step in. Wine agents source wine from wineries and navigate the LCBO testing process, selling the wine directly to restaurants or individuals willing to buy a case or more.
"When most people eat out, they want something different," says Shaw, a former winemaker in France and Australia and a faculty member of the Algonquin sommelier program.
"They want to get food that is not the same as what they would cook at home, and by extension, many people want a wine that is different than what they are drinking at home. It adds to the restaurant experience."
Several Algonquin graduates have started businesses that capitalize on both the knowledge they gained as students and on Ottawa's hunger to learn more about all things vinous.
The year 2003 saw the birth of two of the city's best-known wine-education businesses, the Savvy Grapes and Groovy Grapes. Both aim to make wine fun and accessible by hosting events in homes, workplaces and restaurants.
"We felt there were people out there, who if given the opportunity, would want to know a bit more about what wine they were drinking and pairing with food and why," says Groovy Grapes co-owner Sean Moher, a 2005 Algonquin graduate. "There's also a whole section of the market that is just looking to have different experiences throughout their lifetime, wine being one of a thousand and one."
Debbie Trenholm, a 2000 graduate and owner of the Savvy Grapes, has taken her business's educational offerings in new and interesting directions.
For instance, she runs a Savvy Supper Series to which "people can subscribe just like they do to the NAC concert series or GCTC theatre series." Diners enjoy a gourmet meal and fine wine, but what's special is that they are joined by the winemaker.
The LCBO is riding the wave of interest too, offering a full slate of wine appreciation classes. More than two dozen tutored tastings are scheduled at the Rideau Street and Nepean Crossroads locations this fall.
Well-attended tutored tastings have been happening under the radar in Riverside South for the past three years. "We wish to assist people in trying different wines to broaden their horizons and get beyond the comfort zone of purchasing based upon simple label recognition," says John McCormick, the Australian Wine Society's cellar master, of the events he holds in the community room at Moncion's Grocer's. Not only Riverside South residents turn up to be nudged out of their comfort zones, but regular attendees include wine lovers from Gatineau, Kanata, Orléans, and even Hawkesbury and Rockland.
Then there's the innovative DiVino Wine Studio on Preston Street. Modelled on Italian enotecas, where learning and tasting go hand in hand, DiVino has the ambitious goal of helping Ottawans appreciate the wine, food and culture of Italy, and wine and food generally. In addition to serving wine and small plates five nights a week, the studio offers cooking classes, tasting seminars, sommelier-led dinners, tours of Italy, even wine- and food-focused Italian-language classes.
"Ten years ago there was no talk about wine, no knowledge of food pairing," says owner and Algonquin sommelier program faculty member Antonio Mauriello. "Today we see energy, action, awareness, curiosity, higher standards."
The Ottawa Food and Wine Show runs from Nov. 7-9 at Lansdowne Park. Admission is $17, food and wine extra. See www.ottawafoodandwineshow.com for details.
BECOMING A SOMMELIER
What: Algonquin College's sommelier program offers seven courses toward certification as a sommelier:
1. Wine tasting (36 hours over 12 weeks);
2. Grape varieties (36 hours over 12 weeks);
3. Vinification (wine-making) (30 hours over four weeks);
4. Wine and food matching (21 hours over six weeks);
5. Old World wine regions (48 hours over 16 weeks);
6. New World wine regions (36 hours over 12 weeks);
7. Sommelier advanced (duties of a sommelier) (48 hours over 16 weeks).
Cost: $3,085.42 for all seven courses.
Enrolment: Part-time (evenings and/or Saturdays) attendance is semester-based, with acceptance each semester class-by-class on a first-come, first-serve basis. Fast-track (Mondays, 9 a.m. to 4 p.m.) starts in September, finishes in July, with acceptance on a first-come first-serve basis.
Information: Visit sommelier.ca/ or www.algonquincollege.com, or contact Mark Tandan, assistant co-ordinator at tandanm@algonquincollege.com or 613-727-4723 ext. 5151.
Ottawa Citizen (6)
November 25, 2008
Surviving Holiday Stress
By Daniel Drolet
Name: Natalie MacLean
Occupation: Nat Decants Wine Newsletter
Holiday challenge: “I write about wine so most people expect me to serve fairly pricey wines at holiday gatherings and meals, but I don't have an unlimited budget.”
Holiday tip: “I look for the underpriced wines in the liquor store that taste twice as expensive as they cost: Argentine Malbec, South African Sauvignon Blanc and Chilean Cabernet. They'll save you a bundle on your holiday entertaining and gift-giving.”
Ottawa Citizen (7)
April 5, 2009
By Bruce Deachman
What goes with death row? How about a silky, fleshy pinot noir from Burgundy?
Natalie MacLean can do half of the food and drink thing (see Question No. 7) and has to keep fending off the FedEx guy, who often hints he would like to come in (No. 18).
Sommelier and wine writer Natalie MacLean got her start with half a bottle of syrupy sparkling wine behind the shed at a high school dance. Perhaps there's hope yet for us all.
1. What comment most often appeared on your report cards?
"Enjoys writing stories." I also couldn't resist a good pun. In Grade 1, I wrote a story about the aquarium in our classroom and ended with the observation that something fishy was going on in there. I always loved playing with words; loved how language could be curled backward and forward to create new ways to seeing things.
2. What were the circumstances surrounding the first memorable glass of wine?
I remember the night I tasted my first good wine. My future husband Andrew and I were at a small Italian restaurant around the corner from our apartment. The first time we went there, the owner asked us if we'd like to try the brunello. We thought it was a regional dish, but it turned out to be a red wine from central Italy. We were just relieved not to have to tackle the wine list: neither of us knew much more about wine than which fluffy animals on the label we liked best. As I raised the glass to my lips, the aroma of the wine rushed out to meet me and all the smells that I had ever known fell away. I moistened my lips with the wine and drank it slowly, letting it coat my tongue and slide from one side of my mouth to the other. I didn't know how to describe it, but I knew how it made me feel.
3. What did you have on your bedroom walls when you were a kid?
I was a competitive highland dancer for 15 years so my bedroom wall had the medals I won at various highland games nailed to it. I also had a chart that I coloured in when I practised (I was a fairly intense child) and a poster of the movie Grease. I wanted to be Olivia Newton John: good girl gets bad boy -- plus she was a great dancer.
4. You have $100 to spend at the LCBO. What will you buy?
I'd buy four to five wines in the $15 to $25 range. I don't believe in paying more for pleasure than you have to. These days that's easy as there are lip-smacking, delicious wines in that price range from Argentina, Chile, South Africa and Canada, as well as the southern regions of France, Spain, Portugal and Italy.
5. What useless skill(s) do you possess?
I'm double-jointed: wish it helped me to uncork wine more quickly, but it doesn't.
6. What word most often used to describe wine do you find meaningless, and which descriptive word do you like best?
"Stylish." It's too abstract for most people to relate to wine. What does it mean? Well-made, delicious, balanced, complex, layered? It even sounds as though we're talking about the wine's own sense of style in choosing the right glassware or food companions for itself. I prefer more concrete language, like full-bodied, mouth-watering and even everyday fruit, like plums or berries.
7. What talent do you most envy in others?
I admire the ability to cook -- anything. I can boil water for spaghetti.
8. If you were on death row, what would you choose for your final meal?
Could it be all liquid? I'd love to have a case of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, a silky, fleshy pinot noir from Burgundy. I think the wine would help make the situation more palatable (or blurry) than a steak would.
9. What movie scene involving wine is your favourite?
In From Russia with Love, an assassin posing as a fellow agent joins James Bond for dinner in the dining car of the Orient Express. Bond orders champagne for his sole, but the impostor asks for a chianti, "the red kind." Later, when 007 recovers from being knocked unconscious by the bad guy, he says, "Red wine with fish. Well, that should have told me something." But the villain responds, "You may know the right wines, but you're the one on your knees." Of course, Bond would have a much tougher time ferreting out the bad guys today, since the old rules about red wine and fish have long since been broken. That's why I created a Drinks Matching tool with thousands of pairings on my website (www.nataliemaclean.com): to help good guys and wine lovers. (I don't tell villains about it.)
10. Almost everyone has a story of their worst night of drinking. What was yours?
My teen drinking began and ended at the same high school dance, behind the utility shed where all the illicit activities took place. I chugged half a bottle of syrupy sparkling wine. Not only did it taste wretched, but it also made me spend the next day in the vise grip of a searing, sugar-withdrawal headache. Didn't touch booze again until I was 25.
11. What are the three best driving songs?
From the ages of five to 18, I went to highland dancing competitions almost every weekend, so the driving songs my mother and I sang evolved over time. We started with The Wheels on the Bus Go Round and Round, progressed to Hopelessly Devoted to You from Grease, and then on to Eye of the Tiger to get the competitive juices flowing.
12. What was the best wine you ever tasted?
Domaine de la Romanée-Conti 1956 in the cobwebbed winery cellar. The aroma enveloped me, sending my mind floating over a field of wild strawberries. There's a beautiful mystery in some wines that evaporates with the cold touch of analysis.
13. What have you never done that you'd like to try?
I'd like to hike in the Andes Mountains. Luckily, I'll be doing that next month when I visit Argentina to taste the wines there. It's a pleasure doing business.
14. What was the best day of your life that didn't include a marriage or birth?
A few years ago, I attended the James Beard Foundation Journalism Awards, considered the Oscars of food and wine writing, in New York City. At the end of the evening, they announce the M.F.K. Fisher Distinguished Writing Award, named in honour of my favourite food writer who wrote with a sensuous obsession. I couldn't hear or see anything for several minutes after they said my name.
15. If you could be one fictional character for a day, who would
you choose and why?
The heroine in the Marguerite Duras novel Moderato Cantabile who sat in a café thinking of "that first sip of manzanilla in her mouth, and the peace in her body that would follow... the last gulp of brandy at daybreak, probably, coming up in her throat like a sob that you have to keep holding in."
16. What was the first album/cassette/CD you ever owned, and under what circumstances did you get it?
My mother gave me Mother Goose, Rhymes and Songs when I was three. I absolutely loved Do You Know the Muffin Man?
17. What hitherto ignored country's wines do you think people should start paying more attention to?
I'm just back from Sicily where I tasted remarkable wines made on the slopes of the volcano Mount Etna. Everyone thinks of Tuscany or Piedmont when they think of Italy, but these are the wines to watch in the next few years.
18. What part of your job do you like the least?
Taking out the bottle recycle bins on garbage morning. Ours are extremely heavy and embarrassingly full -- all six of them. Wineries send me samples to taste at least two to three times a week -- the FedEx guy keeps hinting at joining me for a tasting sometime. For most bottles, I just take one sip, spit it out, then dump the rest in the sink. So they pile up.
19. What three people, living or dead, would you most like to spend an evening with in a bar, and why?
Edoardo, Angela and Frank Serghesio, all Italian immigrants who started a small family winery in California in 1902. I wrote about their struggle in Red, White and Drunk All Over, but I would have loved to have spent an evening drinking with them, in a bar or at their kitchen table.
20. What would you like your headstone to read?
"Where once my wit, perchance, hath shone,
in aid of others let me shine;
and when, alas, my brain
is gone,
what nobler substitute
than wine?
-- Lord Byron."
Natalie MacLean writes about wine and food on her website, www.nataliemaclean.com.
Ottawa Magazine
October 2006
What are your three fantasy dates?
My husband (we drink great wines together)
Lord Byron (he realized that wine is actually the greatest seducer)
Bacchus (need I say more?)
What are your three favorite spots in Ottawa?
Anywhere along the Rideau River
The Vintages section of the large LCBO store on Rideau Street
My front deck
What are your three favorite non-wine-related possessions?
My Celtic wedding ring
The mug that my son Rian painted for me
A first edition of M.F.K. Fisher’s book With Bold Knife and Fork, a gift from my good friend Robyn Osgood
What are your top non-alcoholic drinks?
San Pellegrino sparkling water
Freshly squeezed orange juice
Organic skim milk
What are your three ultimate wine and food pairings?
Plank-grilled salmon with Gloria Ferrer Pinot Noir from California.
A juicy medium-rare filet mignon and sautéed mushrooms accompanied by Château Gruard Larose from Bordeaux.
Hors d’oeuvres with Vineland Estates Off-Dry Riesling from Niagara (ideal for book launch parties).
What are the three silliest wine descriptors you’ve encountered?
The description of an Algerian wine by British satirist Ralph Steadman: “Very soft and very round, like sheep's eyes with square pupils.”
An Australian shiraz, described by Wine X magazine as a “Chippendales dancer in leather chaps—tight, full-bodied and ready for action.”
An online blurb randomly created by the Silly Tasting Note Generator: “Hints of hair-spray and forceful Cheetos. Drink now through December.”
Who are your three favorite wine or food writers?
M.F.K. Fisher
Colette
Dorothy Parker, Calvin Trillin, Jeffrey Steingarten, James Chatto and Hugh Johnson. Sorry, I did try to keep it to three, but it’s too difficult: there are so many wonderful writers in this genre.
Ottawa Whine Lists
By Natalie MacLean
Five years ago, I needed a drink just to read a restaurant wine list in this city. Most offered Kraft Dinner wines at Pétrus prices served in golf ball glasses with layers of detergent aromas. I'd like to say, "All that's changed now." But I can't. Of the 1400 licensed restaurants in the region, there are about twenty-four superb wine lists or 2%. That leaves room for improvement.
But rather than be a grape grump, I'll focus on those who are doing it right -- and save this magazine some legal fees in slander suits. Ottawa oenophiles are driving recent progress: we've evolved from just asking for the house red or white, to specifying chardonnay or cabernet, and now to requesting a specific region, winery and vintage. And, in turn, we wine lovers have benefited from local courses such as those at Algonquin College, the National Capital Sommelier Guild and LCBO stores. More disposable income from the high tech sector, government hiring, construction and spin-off services mean we're spending more to drink better stuff, and are searching for it on lists.
Great wine lists aren't simply long inventories of expensive wines. Rather, they should reflect a restaurant's identity, complement its cuisine and offer wines at all prices. One of the best examples is Vittoria Trattoria's list of 530 labels, including 40 by the glass. Co-owner Cesare Santaguida started with sixteen wines four years ago, and wine sales have grown 25% every year since.
Vineyards Wine Bar Bistro has also soared on this trajectory. Twenty-one years ago, Bill Gordon and his partner rolled into town from Toronto driving an eighteen-wheeler filled with wine. "We were going to show the nation's capital what wine was all about," he says laughing. "But we quickly found out that success meant listening to what our customers requested. That's how we select the wines for our list now."
Since Gordon opened Vineyards, Wine Spectator magazine has recognized the list with awards of excellence for twelve years now, the Epicurean Awards have also given it top honours and this year, it received the Ottawa City magazine Best Wine List award based the greatest number of reader votes in the wine list category.
The most memorable bottle Gordon ever sold wasn't even for sale. A friend had given him a rare, expensive bottle of Château Lafite Rothschild, which he brought to the restaurant to show the staff. Later that day, he returned to find that one of the evening-shift waiters had sold the bottle to an appreciative couple. (Gordon groans at the memory, saying he's blocked out what percentage of the price the customers paid for this liquid treasure).
He doesn't usually offer premium Bordeaux wines (at least not intentionally), since most people aren't interested in them. "It's nice to sell Rolls Royces and Jags, " he remarks, "but it's the Chevy wines that sell well here."
Australian shiraz and Chilean cabernet -- luscious, full of fruit and accessible -- are both hot. California reds are still popular, but less now than five years ago because of big price hikes and our weak dollar. The new shining star, and biggest change on local wine lists, is Canadian wine, which has climbed out of the vinous dumping ground of house wines and up into the premium sections of wine lists. Some outstanding vintages in the 1990s, international recognition and great prices have boasted their popularity. Domus Café, Wilfrid's and Le Café, among others, offer strong selections of Canadian wines.
Baco Restaurant and Wine Bar offers the widest range of Canadian wines. Co-owner Jeff Hundertmark initially listed wines from other countries, but discovered that customers requested mostly Canadian wines, so he decided to offer them exclusively. He has been rewarded for his efforts not only with increased patronage, but also with the Cuvée Award for the best overall wine experience. Hundertmark travels to Niagara monthly, searching for new wineries to add to his sixty-label list. Two hot new picks are Pennisula Ridge Estates and Malivoire, both of which are available for the first time in this area at Baco.
Hundertmark recalls securing his impressive vertical range of Niagara's premium producer of baco noir wine, Henry of Pelham. While walking through the cellars of competing Niagara wineries, he noticed a skid of Henry of Pelham Baco Noir. No one knew how the wine got there or where it was headed, so he called the winery to ask. It turned out that staff had forgotten it was stored there. They thanked Hundertmark for finding it, and then sold it to him, creating the caché of wine that is the restaurant's namesake.
Several other lists also specialize in one region: Giovanni's and Trattoria Italia both have an outstanding range of Italian wines, and El Meson claims to have more Spanish and Portugese wines than the LCBO. Henry Berger (winner of this year's OCM's award of distinction for its wine list), La Tartuffe, L'orée du Bois and Laurier sur Montcalm have impressive French wine offerings.
When Michael Sobcov, co-owner of Juniper, first offered a list of New World wines, some customers had problems with it. They wanted to know where the good wine was -- you know, the stuff from France. But over time, Juniper has developed one of the finest New World lists (be sure to ask for both the reserve and regular lists) and a following as cultish as the California cabs it lists: Staglin Family, Joseph Phelps Insignia, Caymus Vineyards, and the 1999 Wine Spectator's Wine of the Year, 1996 Château St. Jean Cinq Cépages.
Several restaurants have distinguished their lists not only with good selection, but also with tasting notes, food pairing suggestions and numbering the wines to avoid the tongue-tripping task of ordering wines with hard-to-pronounce names. Echo Café (winner of OCM's award of merit for its wine list), Les Fougères and Bistro 1908 do a splendid job of this.
Wines by the glass is the other strength of several of these restaurants. This enables wine lovers to try new wines, and match them to each dish and diner without having to consume a whole bottle. Bistro 115 and Hy's Steakhouse enable you to start the meal with a half bottle champagne from one of several top tier selections -- perfect for two -- and then move on to a bottle with the meal. Black Cat Wine Bar offers its entire selection by the glass. Merlot, the new restaurant at the Ottawa Marriott Hotel, offers an impressive range by both the bottle and the glass, as do Medithéo Restaurant and Wine Bar and the Sonoma Café Bar and Atri (formerly Opus Bistro). Most oenophiles would like to see more by the glass and selections by the half litre, as well as the opportunity to taste a few ounces of several wines in flights.
If, however, you can look at a 1982 Château Margaux without blinking, then Le Baccara is the place for you. Casino de Hull's third-floor fine dining restaurant offers a vast array of premium French wines. The gamblers in the pit below may be subsidizing the nectar of the gods with their grocery money, but you can't deny that lofty Baccara stands alone in this region. The restaurant's consummate sommelier, Danielle Dupont, serves wines from the private collection of a Belgium Estate that the restaurant purchased last year. Among the thousand bottles was a 1893 Château d'Yquem, unpriced as yet-- and if you have to ask, order the shiraz instead. Dupont lists 300 labels, and another 16,000 bottles age in the cellar.
It's not the high rollers who splurge on the expensive bottles at Baccara, though. In fact, the gamblers and the diners are mostly two different groups. The average bottle sells for $60, but the most expensive wine sold so far was a 1979 Château Mouton-Rothschild, bought by a high tech couple for $1,300.
Le Baccara's estate purchase is unique. Most restauranteurs buy their wines from the LCBO or SAQ just as do their customers do -- which nettles some of them. "I have to freeze my butt with everyone else on a February morning of a Vintages release," says Vittoria's Santaguida.
The consignment program enables restaurants to stock wines not usually sold in the liquor stores. Agents representing small wineries or those with limited allocations in this area sell wine to the restaurant. (The LCBO still takes its cut, of course.) Since quantities aren't large enough to stock the liquor stores, this enables the wineries to get onto wine lists, and restaurants can offer customers a new taste experience. The flip side of consignment, though, is that it can be used to mask exorbitant mark-ups since customers don't often know the wines, or their wholesale cost.
For those who aren't high tech millionaires, price is the most difficult thing to swallow on most wine lists. The average mark-up is 100% of the retail cost, but some charge as high as 200% to 300%. Owners point to their overhead costs: cellar storage, staff wages, wine wastage, glass breakage and escalating wine replacement cost (the same wine can be more expensive when it comes time to replenish stock). Plus, restaurants operate on thin margins, and often the profit is in the alcohol sales: customers will eat you poor and drink you rich.
Still, even a 100% mark-up makes mid-range wine expensive. A $30 bottle at retail is $80 after mark-up, 17% alcohol tax and 15% tip. The Wolf Blass Index - the vinous equivalent of the Dow Jones -- reveals the pricing disparity among restaurants. One of the most popular wines locally, Wolf Blass Yellow Label cabernet sauvignon from Australia is $16.05 in stores. Local restaurants charge anywhere between $27.75 and $42.
To be fair, some restaurants invest a lot in staff training, wine selection, cellar space, wines by the glass and good stemware -- which alone can average $5,000 annually to replace. While most restaurants generate 85% of their revenues on food and 15% on alcohol, the reverse is true for Vineyards, where keeping more than sixty bottles open to offer them by the glass is a significant cost to a restaurant. For customers, it's a trade-off between selection and price.
At the high end of the list, most restaurants use lower mark-ups to avoid sticker shock. One innovator in Hull, Oncle Tom, charges a flat $10 mark-up on premium wines. The four adult children of the late André Poirier want to carry on their father's desire to encourage customers to try better wines, and two bottles instead of one.
Most wines are priced according to demand, so you can find the values among less-lauded regions and producers because few people ask for them. Identifying these wines requires lots of homework or a good sommelier.
Just as a Stradivarius violin sounds divine with an accomplished violinist, so too, a great wine list comes to life in the hands of an adroit server. Too many wine experiences are ruined with covert decanting behind the bar, a heavy pour to the brim and a trail of red dots marking the waiter's route around the table. While most wine lovers don't expect servers to be wine experts, they do want them to know their own wine list -- to have tasted the wines, to be able to describe them and to recommend food matches.
But often, it seems, customers are more knowledgeable than the servers are. Ottawa wine lover Roberto Gualtieri recalls, "Recently, when I was ordering a wine, I asked the waiter what the vintage was. I saw he didn't understand the question, so trying to be helpful I asked: '1986? 1989? 1990?' To which he replied, 'That's right, something like that!'"
Again, to be fair, wine waiters are used to serving clientele who are scarcely better informed. Some customers have been known to order a red chardonnay or a Californian Barolo, neither of which exist. Vineyards' Gordon recalls an elderly woman who, overwhelmed with the selection, asked for a chateaubriand. He told her he couldn't fit a steak into a glass, but would be happy to offer her wine from another fine château.
But while Algonquin's classes are filled with wine-loving consumers and LCBO staff, there aren't many restaurant staff, according to Astrid Neuland, a former instructor with the program. Unfortunately, given thin margins and tight employment, many employers are reluctant to pay for their staff to attend classes, and many servers aren't willing to go without being paid. Notable exceptions are: Kathleen McConnell (Laurier Sur Montcalm), Sylvia Taylor (Domus Café), Ashok Dhawan (NAC's Le Café), Claudine Tarte (L'orée du Bois) and Véronique Rivest (Les Fougères). At Vittoria Trattoria, ten wait staff have either completed or are taking the course.
To help fill this gap, Phil Nicholson, founder of the National Capital Sommelier Guild offers a condensed, afternoon wine sales and service course. It doesn't conflict with the evening work times of wait staff and it appeals to their profit motive. Says Nicholson: "Often the wine is two to three times the price of the dish, and therefore a big part of the tip. Yet waiters often know much more about the food than the wine. I teach them have to be effective wine salespeople."
A great list doesn't have to be a tome of Wine & Peace that brings us to our knees, nor should it be populated with only expense-account specials. It should express the restaurant's passion for wine and leave us feeling that it was worth drinking there instead of buying the bottle at the liquor store. When we review lists next year, let's hope there'll be more than twenty-four places where what you drink matters as much as what you eat.
Ottawa's Best Cellars
By Natalie MacLean
What's that aroma wafting through the city? Is it poutine? No. Is it beaver tails? No. It's the scent of a well-stocked passion. Ottawa used to be better known for hot chocolate than for wine, but a vinous Group of Seven is changing the dining landscape: seven local restaurants recently won Wine Spectator Magazine awards for their wine lists.
Waiting for the awards to be issued is like waiting for Moses to come back down the mountain: first a lot of speculation, then everyone scrambles to see what's on the list. The chosen few this year are: Juniper, Medithéo, Trattoria Italia, Vineyards, Wilfred's, Vittoria Trattoria and Les Fougères. That's more than twice as many as last year, when only three area restaurants won awards: and it compares respectably with Toronto's thirty-four winners and Montreal's ten.
Since 1981, Wine Spectator has recognized restaurants from forty countries that have outstanding wine lists. Restaurateurs submit a wine list, a menu and a one-page description of their wine program for review. (The Spectator relies on the honour system, and on its readers to detect fraud - except for the top-tier awards. For these, magazine staff inspect the restaurant cellars.) This year, 2,753 restaurants were chosen worldwide , 146 of them in Canada. To qualify for an Award of Excellence, a restaurant must have at least eighty well-chosen labels from various producers, with a supporting inventory of bottles. Eighty-three per cent of the awards were in this category, including our seven winners.
To achieve the more elevated Best of Award of Excellence, a restaurant must have 500 or more labels, with selections from several vintages of top producers, strengths in specific regions, and menu harmony. Fourteen per cent of winners achieved this distinction, twenty-one in Canada. The most coveted designation, the Grand Award, requires lists offering at least 1,250 different labels, including older vintages, rare wines, large-format bottles and a hefty overall inventory. According to the magazine, it takes "extraordinary passion, dedication and financial commitment" to build a wine list deserving this award. Only three per cent of all restaurants and just two in Canada won this year.
Vineyards has held the Award of Excellence every year since 1988, and was the first regional restaurant to win one. As the Founding Mother of this city's great wine lists ("mother," for we are talking about one of nature's finest gifts), it continues to improve its own list, recently adding fourteen wine flights - groups of three wines, poured two ounces to a glass. Flight tasting enables diners to compare the styles of three Italian red wines, for example, or three New World chardonnays -- something that isn't possible when you just drink one bottle.
The only other restaurant to win both this year and last is Vittoria Trattoria, which has fifty-seven wines by the half-bottle and a sixteen-page list. As part of the restaurant's renovations this year, co-owner Cesare Santaguida added a private wine cellar dining room. Now, for that eighteenth-century lord-of-the-manor feeling, you and up to twelve of your friends can dine surrounded by the restaurant's 8,000 bottle inventory, chandeliers and wooden crates from top producers around the world.
Dominic Carrozza, owner of Trattoria Italia, which won the award for the first time this year, says diners shouldn't have to go to expensive establishments to find a large wine list. His goal is to make a wide selection of wine available with a moderately priced menu, and he pulls it off. With some surprise, he notes that despite his focus on Italian wines and fare, the most popular wines with customers are Australian. But he admits a shiraz drinks as well with pasta as a barolo.
Michael Sobocov, co-owner of Juniper, says that winning the award is a tonic for his business since many tourists and businesspeople dine at his restaurant after reading about it in the Wine Spectator. His list continues to focus solely on New World wines, including California cult wines and Australian favourites. Ninety per cent are bought on consignment -- they can't be bought in stores, which makes them a rare treat for wine lovers. But the biggest change is the growth of Canadian wines on his list, which he says is easy to achieve now that their quality has improved dramatically. He offers rising regional stars such as Peninsula Ridge, Malivore and Burrowing Owl.
Medithéo offers half its 180 wines by the glass and aims to have 100 by the glass at the end of the year - great for those who like to try a different wine with each course. Wilfred's Grill in the Château Laurier has 225 labels, mostly Canadian, U.S. and Australian wines. Sommelier Daniel Rousselle hopes to offer customers more wines from undiscovered regions as he builds the list to more than 300 labels in the next year. Les Fougères, a long-time favourite spot in Chelsea, offers all wines priced at $36 or less by the glass. It also charges guests only for the one-half or three-quarters of the bottle they drink. Les Fougères will be adding a gourmet take-away food store next to the restaurant this year and also use the space for cooking classes, wine and food matching seminars, and winemakers' dinners.
Hy's Steak House won an award last year but missed the deadline this year - the Spectator moved the April closing date back one month to March 1, and as sommeliers are not exactly men and women of leisure, the change escaped notice. Hy's list is still Spectator-quality, though, especially this year: it has added a full page of half bottles, ranging from moderately-priced Canadian wines to coveted California cabernets. This city needs more half bottles - they're ideal for the single diner or a couple who want to try two wines instead of committing to one bottle. Half bottles also guarantee freshness: often, wines by the glass may come from bottles opened several days ago.
Other restaurants with lists that could quality for Spectator awards include Giovanni's, Baco, Le Café (NAC), Merlot (Ottawa Marriott), Bistro 1908, Laurier sur Montcalm, L'Orée du Bois and Le Baccara at the Casino de Hull - all have well over eighty thoughtful selections. These last four, located in Quebec, may suffer from the magazine's cultural bias. There is no French edition of the Wine Spectator - and the magazine is so firmly rooted in Californian culture that you can almost hear the surf pounding in the background of each article. Many French sommeliers simply aren't aware of the award and therefore don't apply for it. Le Baccara, for example, has an inventory of 16,000 bottles, and recently purchased a vertical of Chateau Mouton-Rothschild from 1945 to 1997. That cache includes labels painted by Picasso, Riopelle and the controversial Balthus label of a nude girl that was banned in the U.S. but is available to more forward-drinking Canadians.
It takes a barrelful of money and time to build a bottle inventory and then to age it, so it's a challenge for new restaurants to develop an interesting list just when their capital expenses are highest and their revenues lowest. However, several spots that opened in the past year are ripening early. Penstock, the restaurant in the recently restored Wakefield Inn, already has an inventory of 675 bottles and intends to rapidly fill its traditional underground cave, which can store 20,000. Most of the current wines are privately imported from Europe. Arome, the restaurant in the new Hilton Lac Leamy Hotel beside the Casino de Hull, came out of the gate with a staggering 200 labels on its list, including many of the classified growths of Bordeaux and Burgundy.
While Restaurant Signatures at the new Cordon Bleu Culinary Arts Institute is primarily for fine dining, it also offers a reasonable range of wines from around $30 -- including some interesting choices from Languedoc-Roussillon. The Signatures list was designed by Veronique Rivest, who also created Les Fougères' award-winning list. Caroline Gosselin, co-owner of Eighteen restaurant, has built an inventory of close to 2000 bottles, with about 170 different labels on the list to suit seasonal menus, assisted by Lee Wagner, formerly a sommelier at Wilfred's. Be sure to ask for her descriptive wine list that includes tasting notes and scores from critics.
While these new and existing restaurants are investing thoughtfully in their wine programs, unfortunately many more local restaurants offer a greater range of coffees than wines. In fact, several restaurants with good food (notably those in the Byward Market and the Glebe that are often named as favourites of fading media personalities and high tech has-beens) manage to anaesthetize both palate and wallet with safe wines at ridiculous mark-ups.
But restaurants don't have to create a Wine and Peace tomes. Most can design lists that are as satisfyingly concise as an Alice Munroe short story, but still stocked with the terrific values coming out of Chile, Argentina, Australia, Languedoc-Rousillon and South Africa. At the very least, restaurants serving customers stranded in the vinous wasteland west of Westboro can opt for the simple solution of adding one line to the bottom of the wine list: "Please ask your server about our reserve bottles." The restauranteur needs to stock only three to five special bottles for those wanting good wine with their meals. Think of the customer satisfaction. OK, then, think of the profits. Alas, it is with great difficulty that I complete this dispatch, parched and crawling out of Kanata. Please send help - or consultants.
Palm Beach Post
May 2, 2008
By Jen Miner
Oh man, are the Traveling Mamas big fans of wine writer Natalie MacLean. She’s a funny and informative writer, a four-time winner of the James Beard Journalism Awards, and she also was named the World’s Best Drink Writer at the World Food Media Awards (that’s just about the best name for an award).
Natalie MacLean writes hilariously and self-effacingly in her book, Red, White, and Drunk All Over. This is a kind-of travel, kind-of drinking memoir, and I love it. Even better, she kindly answered some of our questions, and - my favorite - has put serious consideration into wine matching with the lowbrow foods typically found in rushed weekday family dinners. What, am I the only one? Don’t tell me the rest of you prepare steak and endive salad every Wednesday night (or as we call it, mac-n-cheese night).
Natalie MacLean’s Top 10 Fun Food and Wine Pairings
1. Popcorn with Chilean Chardonnay
2. Nachos with California Zinfandel
3. Potato Chips with French Champagne
4. Pizza with Italian Chianti
5. Fish and chips with German Riesling
6. Hamburgers with Australian Shiraz
7. Smoked salmon with Canadian or Oregon Pinot Noir
8. Quiche with New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc
9. Canned brown beans with tawny Port
10. TV dinner steak with French or Washington Cabernet Sauvignon
The last chapter of Red, White, and Drunk All Over, called Wine Meets its Toughest Matches, includes more than just the Top 10 fun food and wine pairings. Does a nice Merlot or Pinot Noir go with red Jello? You’ll have to read the book to find out. In the meantime, it’s time to crack open a can of pork and beans for dinner. At least now I know to pair it with Port!
Per Dijm
By Miriam Worst
Nat Decants is a Internet site of wine writer Natalie MacLean. It's full of great articles that she has written and she publishes a regular newsletter which has a personal tone. And now she has considered something new, which will be interesting for all wine lovers. It is a so-called widget, which means: a tool that you can put on your own web site, blog or social media page like Facebook to get wine and food pairings.
With this tool, your site visitors can find the right wine for the right dish. The tool is easy-to-use and accessible. There are than 350 types wines. In whites, the selection is 96 wines, based on some grapes, some wine regions. One reviews at example Grüner Veltliner in, then the widget gives matches such as smoked salmon, corned beef with cabbage, ham with parsley. There are hundreds of dishes.
This is a wonderful service for wine drinkers.
Philadelphia Daily News
February 14, 2008
Natalie MacLean, a Canadian wine expert and author of "Red, White and Drunk All Over: A Wine-Soaked Journey from Grape to Glass," offers a comprehensive array of wine and chocolate pairings on her Web site (www.NatalieMacLean.com).
It's fun to use MacLean's interactive "Wine & Food Matcher," which allows you to pick a dish (chicken korma) and match it with a wine (Viognier). You'll find this in the drop-down menu top right, under "How do I match this wine with food."
Under "chocolate," MacLean makes sweetheart suggestions for some 50 treats, from chocolate mousse to Black Forest cake and bittersweet chocolate.
For Valentine's Day, MacLean selected her top 10 wine and chocolate matches:
1. Dark chocolate and Banyuls (France).
2. Chocolate-covered biscotti and Recioto Della Valpolicella (Italy).
3. Chocolate-orange cake and Liqueur Muscat (Australia).
4. Chocolate with nuts and tawny port (Portugal).
5. Milk chocolate and Tokaji (Hungary).
6. Bittersweet chocolate and Amarone (Italy).
7. Chocolate-dipped fruit and Icewine (Canada).
8. Chocolate ganache truffles and sauternes (France).
9. Chocolate raspberry cheesecake and Framboise (California).
10. Chocolate hearts with cream filling and cream sherry (Spain).
Philadelphia Inquirer
August 28, 2007
By Craig LaBan
Reader Question:
I have been trying to educate myself on the life of food and wine pairings. I was wondering if you could recommend any other books or have any words of wisdom that may be helpful?
Craig LaBan:
You ask a very good question on a tricky topic. Wine and food pairing is one of the hardest things to master - I know I'm still striving to learn those secrets. Canadian writer Natalie MacLean is tackling the topic regularly with wit in her well-read site at NatalieMacLean.com.
Pittsburgh Post-Gazette
October 10, 2009
By China Milman
Anyone who's ordered a bottle of wine at a restaurant knows the ritual. The server brings the wine to the table, displays it for the customer's inspection, then uncorks it with a flourish. A small portion is poured for the diner to sniff, taste and evaluate. If there's something wrong with the wine, this is the moment for the taster to send it back.
But few do ...
Natalie MacLean, editor of one of the largest online wine newsletters, at www.nataliemaclean.com, said 5 percent to 10 percent of wines are "corked," or tainted by a chemical compound introduced by a faulty natural cork. Yet restaurants and sommeliers say that consumers send back less than 1 percent of wine they order.
Why are people so hesitant to speak up?
"People assume 'It must be my palate,' " said Ms. MacLean.
Paul Tebbets, co-owner and wine director of Toast! Kitchen and Wine Bar in Shadyside, agrees. "People are afraid because they're going to be deemed unknowledgeable or unruly."
When a server gives you a moment to examine the bottle and then taste the wine you've selected it's not a ceremonial offer; that's your opportunity to see if the wine is palatable.
"A lot of people actually waive tasting bottles," said Mr. Tebbets, "particularly when they're having a second bottle of the same [wine]."
When a server presents you with a bottle of wine, check to make sure it's the one you ordered. The server may have misheard or misunderstood your order. Then carefully smell and taste the wine. Wine making is a complicated business, and a lot can go wrong. Ms. MacLean suggested that diners primarily look out for corked wine and oxidized wine, which together account for about 95 percent of flawed wines
Corked wine should be relatively easy to identify.
"The wine smells like old, musty or wet cardboard," she said. "You won't get any fresh fruity smells. It really dampens the wine. ... It's not a pleasant smell. You should get a lot of pleasure from smelling your wine."
If you're hesitant to declare a wine "corked" on your own, ask for help. "When it comes down to it, a guest just needs to say, 'Will you please smell this. I don't think it smells appropriate,' " Mr. Tebbets said.
To catch corked wine, he's trained his servers to sniff the bottle as they open it. "When the cork is removed, the aromas kind of waft right out of the bottle at them," he said. Typically a server will replace the faulty wine before guests even have to smell it.
The growing popularity of artificial corks or screw tops is reducing the number of wine bottles that have the problem.
Sometimes there are larger issues ...
Another issue, oxidation, is usually a problem when ordering wine by the glass. If opened wine is stored too long, the exposure to oxygen slowly alters taste and aroma. Ms. MacLean described the taste as "flat and tired."
There's an easy way to check on the quality of wines by the glass -- just ask for a taste. If the bottle is already open, a restaurant shouldn't blink at pouring you a one-ounce portion. Even if it's not, many restaurants will oblige (and if they're opening the bottle for your glass, at least you know it's not oxidized). If you think a bottle's been open for too long, ask for a fresh one or pick another wine.
What if there's nothing wrong with the wine, but you just don't like it? Ideally, you'll realize this while tasting it. If you've picked the wine without help, especially at a restaurant that doesn't have an extensive wine program, you might be stuck with your decision. But if you've picked a wine based on the sommelier's suggestion or at a restaurant that emphasizes its wine program, you can politely ask for a replacement bottle. The worst that can happen is the restaurant will say no.
Both Mr. Tebbets and Ms. MacLean said people should feel comfortable sending back wine they don't like. "If it's not quite what they're looking for, I'm happy to take it back and move them into another bottle of wine," Mr. Tebbets said.
While he considers every wine on Toast's list to be good, he said people have different tastes and experience wines differently. Mr. Tebbets has a few options other than just eating the cost of the rejected bottle. He can temporarily sell it by the glass, or he can take advantage of Toast's flexible tasting menu. The four-course menu with wine pairings ($60 total) is popular, and because the specific dishes and pairings are always a surprise, Mr. Tebbets can bring a bottle of wine to chef Chet Garland and ask him to come up with a course to pair with it.
Not every restaurant has as much flexibility, and it would hurt a bottom line if diners started sending back less-than-amazing bottles frequently. But the average wine drinker deserves to know about practices that are standard among wine experts. Restaurants also stand to benefit from giving consumers the confidence to take more risks, try more interesting wines, and even spend a little more money.
Turn an average wine-drinker into an enthusiast and an accommodating restaurant will likely benefit in the long term.
Publix Grape
December 2008
Vino plays a supporting role in some of the silver screen’s most memorable moments. We asked wine experts to tell us which scenes stayed with them long after the theatres went dark.
“Here’s looking at you kid.” Even if you haven’t seen Casablanca, you’ve likely heard that toast. And if you have seen the movie, you know that not long after Humphrey Bogart and Ingrid Bergman clink glasses, the Germans come marching into Paris and change their lives forever. Here, noted wine experts recall equally vivid movie moments where wine is firmly in the frame.
David Lebovitz, chef and author of The Great Book of Chocolate
My favorite moment is in Babette’s Feast, after she makes this enormous repast, which she spends several days preparing. At the end, when she’s completely exhausted, she brings a small glass of wine to her lips and takes a small sip. Anyone who’s worked in a restaurant or in food service knows how important that sip of wine is at the end of a hectic evening. And that gesture said it all to me.
Natalie MacLean, wine writer and author of Red, White, and Drunk All Over
In the movie Sideways… I love when Virginia Madsen’s character, Maya, talks about the wine she and Miles are drinking and all the people who helped make it. She reflects on the care and energy they invested…how it is a piece of living history. That’s what makes wine special for me, too - its connections to history, art, culture … and so many other facets of life.
Jane A. Nickles, Certified Specialist of Wine, author and wine educator at the Texas Culinary Academy
One of my favorite wine moments is in the film French Kiss, starring Meg Ryan and Kevin Kline. Among my favorite scenes is one about a homemade wine “aroma kit” and romantic leads Kate and Luc have the following dialogue:
Luc: First you must take some wine. Can you describe it, the taste?
Kate: It’s a nice red wine.
Luc: I think you can do better.
Kate: A bold wine with a hint of sophistication and lacking in pretension.
Actually I was just talking about myself.
Anne Moses, cofounder of Patz & Hall winery, Sonoma, California
I love the moment in The Jerk when Steve Martin asks for the new wine because he doesn’t want old wine. I am afraid to say that when that movie came out in 1979, I was in high school and someone had to explain to me why the line was funny.
Mario Batali, chef, author and TV personality
My most favorite wine scene in a movie is from Babette’s Feast – the scene with the quail in [a pastry] sarcophagus. It is the most passionate wine moment ever.
Quick Service Restaurant
July 2009
By Jamie Hartford
Can wine work on quick-service menus? More restaurants are finding that, in fact, it can.
There is a scene in “Sideways,” the 2004 film about an oenophile and his friend road tripping through California’s wine country, where the protagonist, Miles, visits a fast-food restaurant. Having recently suffered humiliations including the rejection of his novel and advances toward the woman he loves, Miles, played by Paul Giamatti, unceremoniously drinks his prized 1961 Château Cheval Blanc from a plastic foam cup over a burger and onion rings.
Had he chosen the establishment more carefully, Miles could have saved his precious bottle for the end of the movie—when his love is indeed requited—and still got a quality buzz. A number of quick-serves, the latest of which is Vancouver, Washington-based Burgerville, have taken a page out of fine dining’s playbook and put wine on the menu.
A study conducted last spring by Adult Beverage Insights Group, a branch of market research firm Technomic, found 40 quick-service restaurants that serve wine, out of 66 total that sold at least some type of alcohol. Louie Cano, senior broker and consultant for Liquor License Specialists, which helps clients buy and sell liquor licenses nationwide, could not provide specific numbers but says he has noticed an increase in limited-service establishments serving alcohol, including wine.
It’s easy to see why: Adult per capita and overall table wine consumption in the U.S. reached a record high in 2008, according to a consumer tracking study conducted by the Wine Market Council (WMC). Last year also marked the 15th straight year of gains in total wine sales. Because of recent growth in the market, the WMC expects sales to hold steady through the recession, and Millennials’ emerging affinity for wine bodes well for future consumption.
Randy Caparoso, a restaurant wine consultant and freelance wine journalist, says as much as 12 to 15 percent of a quick serves’ customer base might order wine with their meals, and bottles can be marked up 50 percent or more.
“That’s nothing to sneeze at; that’s a profit center,” he says.
Serving wine can also be a competitive advantage. It can serve as a point of differentiation from other quick-serves and fuel trade-down from full service.
“We’re trying to grab that customer who is now thinking twice about going to a [full-service] restaurant and dumping $70 to $80 for a meal and wine,” says Derek Cowling, co-owner of O’Brothers, a quick-service burger concept he founded with brother Craig in San Diego earlier this year. O’Brothers has an upscale interior, an organic menu, and wines by the glass from around $7.50 to $8.75. Cowling hopes the $17 to $18 average price for a burger, salad, and glass of wine will bring in customers from the surrounding shopping center and three performing arts theaters within a mile’s walk. Happy hour specials, such as $5 glasses of wine and $5 plates of sliders and fries, beginning at 3:30 p.m. are meant to help drive traffic during the slow mid-afternoon daypart.
In addition to creating profit in its own right, wine offers other, less-direct advantages, for restaurants.
“It eliminates the veto factor,” says Jeff Weinstein, CEO of The Counter, a 20-unit burger concept that has offered beer and wine since it opened in 2003. “You’re not going to not come to The Counter because we don’t serve beer and wine.”
Wine can also elevate an establishment’s image by boosting its value perception.
“All of a sudden, you’re more of a nice restaurant,” says Vaughan Lazar, president and co-founder of 20-unit organic pizza chain Pizza Fusion. “You may not want to take a date to a typical quick-service restaurant, but you might take them to Pizza Fusion because it has wine.”
In white-tablecloth restaurants, sommeliers carefully choose wines to enhance the cuisine, but pairings aren’t just for fancy fare. Wine expert Natalie MacLean says wine can bring out the flavor of a burger just as it can for a steak.
“There is no better way to make a meal like that even more delicious than with a glass of wine,” she says. “The pairings are the same as they would be with fancy food.”
Jeff Harvey, president and CEO of 39-unit Burgerville, says the decision to experiment with beer and wine in its Salmon Creek test location in Vancouver, Washington, is less about adding profits from the drinks and more about enhancing the chain’s food. Coming on the heels of an expanded seasonal gourmet-offerings menu, wine service at the Salmon Creek store is all about the pairings. The chain worked with a sommelier to choose alcohol offerings that complement its food and fit with its local, sustainable ethos. The staff was trained on pairings, and cards offer simple descriptions of the wines and suggest menu matches.
After a three- to six-month testing period, which began in May, beer and wine service could be expanded to other Burgerville locations, but Harvey is quick to stress that alcohol is not likely to become available systemwide.
“It just won’t work in some restaurants,” he says.
Likewise, wine service won’t work for every chain, says Janeen Olsen, professor of wine marketing at Sonoma State University.
“I think you really have to know who your customer is and whether you have a match with who is drinking wine,” she says.
Despite the rising rate of per capita wine consumption, it’s still more popular on the East and West coasts and in urban areas, Olsen says, and wine drinkers tend to have higher incomes and better education than the general population. Research also shows that the drink is associated with relaxation and socialization, so a quick-serve with high customer turnover might not be a great fit for wine service.
While Weinstein says alcohol accounts for about 10 percent of sales at The Counter and Cowling hopes O’Brothers will eventually see alcohol bring in 25 to 30 percent of sales, Lazar says wine adds only about 4 to 8 percent of sales at Pizza Fusion. Most quick-serves, says Technomic’s David Henkes, should realistically expect only 1 to 3 percent of sales to come from alcohol, and beer is still more popular than wine.
Moreover, offering alcohol of any kind creates a number of hassles and headaches, not the least of which is the initial step of acquiring the proper license. The process and fees vary greatly from state to state and even city to city, but a restaurant seeking to serve wine typically doesn’t have to obtain a full liquor license. In most cases, a limited beer and wine license will do.
To obtain one, the business has to file an application with the state, pay a fee that can range from a few hundred to a few thousand dollars, and then wait—usually about three months. The restaurant will also have to comply with an inspection, zoning laws, and background checks. Neighbors, too, will have to be notified and offered the opportunity to comment. As Burgerville found out, some of them might not be happy. The state liquor control board received two letters from people opposing the Salmon Creek location’s liquor license, and Harvey says the chain, too, heard some negative feedback.
“The majority response was excitement, but there are those who haven’t been as warm to the idea,” he says.
There’s no guarantee a license will be awarded. In some states, such as New Jersey, where the full-version is required, liquor licenses are notoriously difficult and expensive to come by. A $400,000 price tag prohibited the Pizza Fusion location in Ridgewood, New Jersey, from getting one, and the restaurant remains the only one in the chain that doesn’t serve alcohol.
“It was a difficult pill to swallow at first,” Lazar says. “In a restaurant of that size, that would have been around 8 percent of sales we could have added to their top line.”
Even if a restaurant does get a license, there are liquor laws to comply with and liability to consider. Those that serve alcohol of any kind are likely to see higher insurance premiums. On-premise alcohol can also affect hiring, as servers must be at least 18 years of age and in some cases obtain special handling licenses.
“The legalities of serving alcohol vary from location to location, so you really have to understand what the laws are,” Olsen says. “As is true for any type of food establishment, quick-service restaurant employees must have proper training concerning alcohol, as well as adequate supervision.”
Theft can be an issue, too.
“You trust that you have a certain type of staff, but we know in this business that’s not always the case,” Lazar says.
To keep employees from helping themselves to the wine, restaurants rely on security cameras, diligent inventory checks, locked storage, eagle-eyed management, and zero-tolerance policies regarding theft.
Still, some quick-serves are willing to accept the risks.
“No matter what you’re doing, there are always liability issues,” says Staci Raymond, operations manager for Taylor’s Automatic Refresher, a three-unit, drive-in-style concept that offers 11 wines by the glass and 15 varieties by the bottle. “We believe it’s worth the trouble.”
The Perfect Match
Here are some suggested pairings from the Wine & Food Matcher widget on expert Natalie MacLean’s Web site.
Reuters
July 14, 2009
By Leslie Gervitz
Excerpted from Reuters
Don't know which wine to have with a pepperoni pizza? There's an app for that -- as well as websites and Twitter.
The number of ways to discover the most suitable wine for a particular dish can be as overwhelming as walking into a large wine shop.
More than a dozen apps claiming to be the equivalent of a sommelier in your pocket are available for iPhones and iPods. And there are others for the BlackBerry and other mobile devices.
But among the most popular is the Nat Decants Food & Wine Match. Wine blogger Natalie MacLean also provides the same information on her website (http://www.nataliemaclean.com).
If you want to find out which wine will go best with lamb vindaloo, MacLean, who has almost 400,000 wine and food pairings, recommends Shiraz for red or a white Chateauneuf-Du-Pape. She also suggests food pairings with beer, whiskies and cocktails.
Reuters
June 13, 2007
By Leslie Gevirtz
Summer has arrived in the United States, which means thousands of bottles of Chardonnay are being uncorked or unscrewed across America.
But Chardonnay's near stranglehold on the American palate may finally be facing its first serious challenge in years from a fellow European ancestor: Riesling.
The grape which London wine merchants Berry Bros. & Rudd says accounts for 20 percent of total plantings in Germany, has already made strong inroads among the vineyards of the New World like Australia and the United States.
Now Riesling is getting a grip on a share of the drinking market that Chardonnay used to own, receiving rave reviews from the wine critics and favorable comparisons against one of the most widely planted white grapes in the world.
Wine writer Natalie MacLean has likened Chardonnay to a dance partner who steps all over your feet, while praising Riesling for its subtlety and finesse with food or on its own.
"Over-oaked, over-alcohol, overripe fruit flavors in Chardonnay can just clobber food," MacLean said.
The author of "Red, White and Drunk All Over", who also has her own Web site said Riesling also comes in a far wider styling -- from bone dry to icewine.
"It has an incredible density of flavors without the palate-whacking high alcohol of so many other wines," she said.
And Americans appear to be catching on to Riesling's qualities and value for money, she said.
Data from Scantrak, a service of The Nielsen Company that follows U.S. grocery store sales of wine, backs her up.
Scantrak found a 24 percent increase in the sale of all Rieslings in the 52 weeks ending May 5. Of the $144.2 million Americans spent on the wine, import share grew by almost 44 percent, while the U.S. share was up 11 percent.
One U.S. producer of Riesling is winning awards, plaudits from the critics and market share.
Chateau Ste. Michelle, located in Washington's Columbia Valley, the largest U.S. producer managed to squeeze out 713,000 cases of eight different Rieslings in 2006. Both Wine Spectator and Wine Enthusiast magazines have bestowed awards on Chateau Ste. Michelle's Rieslings and the winery is playing host to an international tasting of Rieslings June 24-26.
"Washington State...has long been the dominant American Riesling producer and Chateau Ste. Michelle its flagship brand," notes Jim Trezise, president of the New York Wine & Grape Foundation.
But Trezise says other Washington state producers are now challenging it, including: Columbia Crest, Covey run, Hogue and Pacific Rim.
Pacific Rim is devoting an entire winery in Washington's Yakima Valley to Riesling. Its winemaker, Nicolas Quille, is determined to "plant the flag for Riesling" in North America.
Born in Lyon, France, Quille is using grapes from Washington vineyards, but also has contracted with a German producer of Mosel to blend 20 percent of those grapes with 80 percent of the domestic harvest. The result is a dry Riesling that retails for about $10 a bottle.
Most Rieslings can be found in the $8-to-$20 range; while ice wine, also known as Eiswein, from Germany, Austria or Canada can easily run to more than $50 for a half-bottle.
Traditionally, it is made from a small harvest of grapes left on the vines to freeze. The result is an intensity of flavors that, if well-made, is sweet, but not cloying.
Pacific Rim has replaced nature with technology to freeze its grapes. It will be up to drinkers to decide if Pacific Rim's Vin de Glacier, which retails for about $16 for a full bottle, can match the golden nectar of Eiswein.
So if you are planning a spicy barbeque or have Mexican or Asian cuisine on the menu, MacLean recommends trying out a Riesling.
"It's always a safe bet," she said.
Reuters (2)
November 6, 2007
By Leslie Gevirtz
One of America's favorite holidays - with its own parade, plenty of football and a feast - Thanksgiving is rapidly approaching.
This year it falls on November 22, and apparently the U.S. version of this feasting day (Canada's is quite sensibly held in October) seems to be well-known in Europe and Asia.
It is an occasion that can strike dread in the hearts of dieters and bring delight to dessert fiends with its apple, pecan and pumpkin pies, savory squashes and sweet potatoes, molds, relishes, salads, stuffing and cranberry sauce.
Oh, right! The turkey.
The question then becomes what wine or wines to serve and on this most American of holidays, the wine experts we consulted favored everything but American wines.
"First and foremost, I try to figure out which German Riesling we'll be drinking," said wine consultant and writer Doug Frost. "There are too many great German Riesling producers to name but I'll probably buy some bottles from Gunderloch, Fritz Haag, Moenchhof, S.A.Pruem, Darting, Donnhoff and Selbach Oster."
"I hope this doesn't make me eligible for rendition, but after German wine, I stay in Europe and go to exuberant Spanish reds, especially those that aren't over the top, as so many California and Australian reds can be," Frost said. He recommended Riojas such as El Coto, Marques de Caceres and Sierra Cantabria.
Finally, "if you want something bigger, I can't seem to stop drinking wines from Celler de Capcanes," he said, "Everything they make across the board and the wines range from $75 a bottle to $12."
Frost wasn't alone in his recommendation. Martin Davidson who works for Royal Wines, the largest U.S. importer and producer of kosher wines, also suggested Capcanes Peraj Ha'Abib, as well as, Bartenura Prosecco from Italy.
Canadian wine writer Natalie MacLean favored French wines, especially from Bordeaux either a 2004 Chateau De Cruzeau Blanc AC Pressac-Leognan, which is a completely different take on sauvignon blanc for those preferring white wine or a 2005 Joseph Droughin Savigny-Les-Beaune Burgundy.
The latter, she said, is a cherry- and plum-scented wine, elegant and flavorful with ripe tannins that give it balance.
Now Thanksgiving arrives about a week after Beaujolais Nouveau makes its way to the United States and just about everyone seemed to agree that a bottle of that on the table wouldn't be a bad thing to have either.
Turning Leaf vineyards, which has properties in California and Italy, has taken a page from the folks at Butterball, the largest U.S. turkey producer. Just as Butterball has a 24-hour, toll-free hotline (1-800-BUTTERBALL) for home cooks on Thanksgiving as well as the days and weeks leading up to the holiday, Turning Leaf has lined up a panel of experts to advise on wine pairings for the holiday.
If all of this seems too confusing, just remember what Joshua Wesson, founder of the U.S. wine retail chain Best Cellars, once told the authors of the book "What to Drink with What you Eat":
"No two tables are the same. The best you can hope for is a choice that will please most of the people most of the time."
Reuters (3)
February 6, 2008
By Leslie Gevirtz
The subprime mortgage crisis may be pushing housing prices down but it could soon have the opposite effect on Chardonnay, Chianti or Shiraz.
Concerns about the economy, lower interest rates, rising oil prices and a weak dollar are expected to push the price of wine higher by the end of the year.
Jim Galtieri, head of Pasternak Wine Importers, described the combination of economic events as a perfect storm and said we are all wearing foul weather gear.
"The dollar is weak and the prognosis is that it is not only going to stay weak, but get weaker when interest rates fall as they are doing now," he said in an interview.
"As an importer, we don't gamble on our currency. We hedge six months at a time. Last year, when I was buying for January to the end of June, I was locking in the Euro at $1.20. It's now $1.45," he said.
"The difference is 18.8 percent. That's a 19 percent difference without any costs raising prices from my suppliers."
Kurt Eckert, director of fine wine for importer Frederick Wildman & Sons supported Galtieri's comments when asked what his company plans.
"It's simple. We're raising our prices. We held the line as long as we could. For the last 18 months, as the dollar has declined, we've watched our margins shrink. To stay in business we have to restore our margins," he said.
Natalie MacLean, publisher of the wine newsletter www.nataliemaclean.com, believes rising oil prices, the declining dollar and the end of an oversupply of wine in various wine regions will have an impact on the wine market, but in different ways depending on the price category.
"At the low end, for wines less than $10, there'll be tremendous pressure to not increase prices substantially, because consumers are most price sensitive in this segment and will simply trade to a cheaper brand if their usual pick gets too pricey," she said.
Marcy Whitman of Palm Bay International imports, noting that the currencies of Chile and Argentina had not gained on the dollar, said she expected U.S consumers to turn to South American wines for value.
"This is a tremendous opportunity. There are some fabulous wines being produced there," she said.
"Chilean wines represent an amazing value, and not just at the popular price range, but also at the premium range say at prices around $20 a bottle."
Tyler Colman of the award winning blog www.drvino.com, also thought the price hikes present a great time to experiment and explore.
"It creates an opportunity for Americans to try new grape varieties and things that not everyone can pronounce," he said.
His recommendations for food-friendly reds included wines made from grapes such as Sicily's Nero d'Avola or Spain's Mencia from Bierzo; for whites, Falanghina from Italy's Campania, or Chenin Blanc from the Loire valley.
And Galtieri, who has been in the wine business for more than 30 years, added, "Both wine and spirits are somewhat impervious to the economy. People drink in good times and they drink in bad times."
Reuters (4)
February 13, 2008
By Leslie Gevirtz
Nearly half of Americans are expected to celebrate Valentine's Day with a special night out. If money is no object and the finest wines are available which vintage should you select?
Wine experts reveal what they will be sipping on Feb 14.
Richard Brierley, the head of wine sales in the Americas for Christie's auction house, said he could opt for Champagne.
"I don't want to be predictable and go down that Champagne route, but if I did, it would be Salon 1996. It is just exceptional, alluring, full of verve and there's so much energy about it," he said in an interview about one of the rarest champagnes which sells for as much as $250 a bottle.
If Champagne is not on the menu, Brierley's other choice could be a Pinot Noir.
"I've always thought Pinot Noir is seductive. It's just light and it has wonderful cherry aromas and since this has to do with romance, so it's got to be French," he explained.
"So we're kind of in Burgundy. Yes! Charmes-Chambertin. That would be perfect. It has the feminine characteristics. It's very perfumed, has a great nose like fireworks filled with cherries and raspberries. And underneath, its masculine with a strong, powerful earthy flavor."
Wine consultant Doug Frost, who holds both a Master Sommelier and a Master of Wine title, took a more economical approach to Valentine's Day.
"Sherry is such a great bargain, and unlike flowers, retailers don't raise the price of it around Valentine's Day," he said.
"I'm talking about the sweet version of sherry: the sticky, gooey, deliciously sweet kind. In Spain, it's customary to take a great sweet sherry and make a little hole in a bowl of ice cream and fill it with the cream sherry.
"But, since it's Valentine's Day, I think you might consider adding to the romance of the evening. I mean, there are other things that you can pour it over too."
Leslie Sbrocco, author of "Wine for Women" and "The Simple & Savvy Wine Guide" enjoys pairing wines with food, so her choices are linked to specific foods.
She suggested a crisp Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand or a brut Champagne with oysters. For chocolate lovers a late bottled vintage port from Portugal or a sparkling Shiraz from Australia would be her pick. Both would make for passionate pairings.
Natalie Maclean, author of "Red, White and Drunk All Over," who runs the http://www.nataliemaclean.com Web site, recommended Banyuls, a French dessert wine to accompany dark chocolates; Tokaji from Hungary for milk chocolates; an Amarone from Italy for bittersweet chocolates and for those strawberries dipped in chocolate -- Ice Wine from Canada.
Reuters (5)
December 23, 2008
By Leslie Gervitz
In the world of wine, vintage 2008 was a blend of economy and ecology as financial woes put the brakes on a bull run in prices and more producers went green.
"The marketers got into the green word for wine," said Alice Feiring, author of "The Battle for Wine and Love or How I saved the World from Parkerization."
Boisset, the second-largest producer of Beaujolais Nouveau, bottled its entire 2008 harvest in plastic bottles.
The lightweight PET (polyethylene terephthalate) bottles drastically cut shipping costs without affecting the young Gamay wine inside and created packaging that was "absolutely recyclable," according to a company spokesman.
Of course, there are others that don't think the wine industry has really turned green yet, despite the rise in the number of biodynamic and organic wineries internationally.
"PET bottles are very leading edge," said wine.com's Michael Osborn, the largest U.S. online wine distributor.
"But if the wineries really got it, they would stop shipping their wines in wooden crates. The number of wooden crates that we open at our warehouses is incredible. Some of them weigh nine pounds (4.1 kgs). If they were serious, the wineries would forget the recycled wood and ship in recycled corrugated cardboard."
The year also saw the astronomical prices of first growth Bordeaux plunge, if not to earth then to a lower atmosphere.
The Liv-Ex 100 Fine Wine Index, the wine world's Dow Jones Index or FTSE or CAC-40, has fallen more than 20 percent from its all-time high.
A DROP OF PRICE
Among those hardest hit was Domaine Romanee Conti 1990, which commanded more than $20,000 a bottle in November 2007, but sold earlier this fall for $6,500 -- a 67.5 percent drop. Other first-growths from the famed 2005 vintage have seen their prices drop 20 percent or more.
The global credit crisis has threatened the way Bordeaux top chateaux do business.
Chateau Petrus' Jean-Francois Moueix, told decanter.com that he could not "exclude the possibility that there will not be an en primeur campaign in 2009."
En primeur is a method of purchasing vintages while they are still in the barrel. It provides the chateau with cash, while offering the customer the opportunity to buy the wines at a price that may be lower than when it is released.
"If negociant houses can't buy or obtain lines of credit for their allocations, the wine will remain at the chateaux. And if there are not enough takers of allocations, there won't be en primeur sales," Moueix told the website.
A case of the 2007 Petrus is selling for about $16,000.A case of the 1995 Petrus sold at Christie's November auction for Le Cirque, the New York restaurant, for $14,400.
"Despite the economy, consumption continues to increase," said wine writer Natalie MacLean (www.nataliemaclean.com).
"However, based on the 100 or so e-mails I get every day, drinkers are looking for more bargain-priced bottles. They still want a wine that's delicious, but they don't want to blow the budget."
Those price pressures have been a boon to vintners in Chile and Argentina and provided opportunities for winemakers in Portugal and Spain. Less well-known wine countries such as Israel and Cyprus, which after all have been making wine for millennia, have also seen their shares of the U.S. market gain a bit.
Danny Brager, who tracks the wine industry in the United States for the Nielsen Company, a provider of marketing information, noted in an email that the wine industry's 15-year bull run seems to have stumbled a bit.
"The stumble is that while it's growing, it's not growing as fast as it was last year," he said.
Sacramento Bee
January 6, 2010
In the new decade, we'll know much more about what we eat
The 10 years just past could have been dubbed the "foodie decade" – when "artisan" was attached to everything from bread to chocolates, when cupcakes went gourmet and food blogs gained big fan bases. It also was a decade of peanut butter recalls, contaminated spinach and "Super Size Me."
If anything, we head into 2010 much more aware of the origins and handling of the food we consume. Here are some trends to watch as the decade unfolds:
More information, please
As consumers hunger to know more about their food, manufacturers and retailers will provide it.
"It's everything from looking for mercury-safe seafood to wanting to know that humane treatment was given to farm animals," states the Food Channel, a Web site that tracks food trends.
Also, there's the California law that requires chain restaurants with at least 20 locations to provide nutritional information. It's part of a trend dubbed "maximum disclosure" by New York advertising agency JWT. During 2010, such restaurants will gear up for the next phase of the law: They must print calories on menus or indoor menu boards as of Jan. 1, 2011.
More local food
The top two restaurant menu trends are locally grown produce and locally sourced meats and seafood, according to a national Restaurant Association survey of more than 1,800 chefs. Also, as restaurants add local food to their menus, it makes sense for them to add local drinks, including wine.
Tiny desserts, retro sweets
Here's good news for your waistline: bite-size desserts.
As for types of desserts that will be popular, epicurious.com's blog has high praise for the sandwich cookies known as whoopie pies.
Frugal arts
Sure, in a tough economy old-school canning and preserving have taken on new cachet. But there's no need to stop at spaghetti sauce made from your garden tomatoes. Need help? Pick up any number of how-to books for tips on making artisan cheese, digging a root cellar – even butchering chickens you've raised in your backyard.
Food-centric apps
So you're at a restaurant, you've ordered a thick, juicy steak and you're not sure what wine goes with it. Try the Nat Decants Drink Matcher, a $2.99 application that you can download to your iPhone or BlackBerry.
Apps also are out there to help count calories, find recipes, make restaurant reservations or figure tips.
San Antonio Express News
January 7, 2009
By Bonnie Walker
Looking ahead to 2009 seems to be a scary proposition if you listen to the economists. Stocks and the housing market haven’t hit bottom, they say, while uncertainty about jobs and a new president are adding to our jitters.
While it isn’t fun to live with uncertainty, it is fun to talk about wine. This time of year, it’s especially fun to make educated guesses about what trends are afoot. For their insights, we asked Guy Stout, master sommelier for Glazer’s distributing; Ray Ayala, wine specialist with Republic Beverages; and Natalie MacLean, wine expert and author with a popular newsletter, Nat Decants.
From comfort wines to crisp Spanish whites, good-value sparkling rosés to the surging popularity of wines from the Pacific Northwest, these wine lovers cast aside the gloom from the economists and give us reasons to look forward to the year ahead.
Stout, in Houston, says he believes that moderately priced red wines will "be on fire. I think that instead of the $50 bottle of Napa cabernets, people will be going for bottles at $25 or in that range. Napa will stay strong, but some of the more expensive wines will have a harder time,” he says. Related to this trend, says Stout, is another: He sees a resurgence of wines that we might call comfort brands, or brands such as Beringer or Mondavi.
“People are comfortable with these brands, they know them, they don’t expect any surprises.”
Argentina, says Stout, will continue to provide its excellent malbecs, the lush, dark-red wine that has become that country’s specialty.
“I think Chile is doing real well, too. They’ve started to shake their $5-a-bottle image,” says Stout. Marques de Casa Concha and Casa Lapostolle are a couple of brands he recommends.
For good buys in sparkling wines, the sommelier looks to Spain and Italy. “I’m drinking cavas and prosecco right now,” he says.
For lightly crisp Spanish whites, another wine rising in popularity, he suggests albarinos from Rias Biaxas, a DO in Galicia, in northwest Spain. Two in particular are Morgadio and Martin Codax. Another great Spanish white he recommends is Marques de Caceras White Rioja.
Ray Ayala, of Republic, concurs with Stout that Argentine malbecs will continue their growth curve. “That’s because of their value, especially now because of the exchange rate between here and Argentina,” he says.
In the United States, merlot is coming back, Ayala says. “After 10 years of overplanting, they’ve picked up the quality.”
He recommends merlots from Swanson (a benchmark merlot) and Shafer vineyards. Shafer’s merlot sells out every year and is a good value at around $30, he says.
Where there is also a big uptick in quality as well as sales now, he notes, is in wines from the Pacific Northwest. “We’re seeing a lot more widespread distribution that’s hitting the mainstream now,” he says. Pinot noirs from Oregon, especially the Willamette Valley, and cabernet and merlot from Washington’s Walla Walla and Columbia Valley regions.
One might argue that rosé Champagnes and sparklers are perennial trends, but the sales of still wines that are pink in hue, as well as the pink sparklers, continue to rise, Ayala says.
“The Taittinger Brut Prestige Rosé is just beautiful,” he says.
It’s not cheap, usually retailing in the high-$70s-to-low-$80s range, but if you’re going to splurge on a French Champagne, this is the place to do it, he says. Another sparkling value comes from Domaine Carneros, with the wine selling for under $40.
MacLean, editor of the award-winning wine e-newsletter at www.nataliemaclean.com, says, “The slow economy has been a boon to the great undervalued gems of the wine world. In particular, it’s putting the spotlight on Argentine malbec, South African shiraz and Chilean cabernet: All are terrific values on the liquor store shelves.”
From the several hundred wine aficionados who visit her site daily, she says she knows that great taste at value prices is what most are looking for.
And more and more people are dining at home since that’s cheaper than going to a restaurant. So, more than ever, they want a good bottle to make that meal special. “Wines under $20 are going to continue to rise in popularity in 2009 and they’re increasingly the bulk of my top reviews,” says MacLean.
“To my great relief, I’m also seeing a consumer shift away from critter labels (think purple reptiles, pink iguanas and the like) and more toward wines that tell the story about where they’re made,” MacLean says. “More and more wine lovers know that wine usually tastes better when it’s tied more closely to a place than to a marketing plan.”
San Francisco Bay Guardian
February 6, 2009
By Molly Freedenberg
PERFECT MATCH Want to seduce someone this Valentine's Day? Just share a glass of wine (or three) with your sweetheart. Wine is liquid sensuality: its heady bouquet stimulates the appetite and its velvet caress soothes that desire. What other drink is described as both voluptuous and muscular? And when you pair wine with the mouth-coating luxury of chocolate, the combination is impossible to resist.
We asked Natalie Maclean, author of Red, White and Drunk All Over and the woman behind the food-wine matcher at www.nataliemaclean.com, to give us her romantic suggestions of chocolate pairings with California wines. Here's her top 10 list:
•Dark chocolate and Cline Ancient Vines Zinfandel, Contra Costa County
•Chocolate-covered biscotti and Beaulieu Vineyard Coastal Cabernet Sauvignon
•Chocolate-orange cake and Andrew Quady Essencia Orange Muscat
•Chocolate with nuts and Santa Barbara Winery Syrah, Santa Ynez Valley
•Milk chocolate and Greg Norman Lake County Zinfandel
•Bittersweet chocolate and Round Hill Cabernet Sauvignon California
•Chocolate-dipped fruit and Gallo Frei Ranch Zinfandel, Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma
•Chocolate ganache truffles and Toasted Head Shiraz California
•Chocolate raspberry cheesecake and Bonny Doon Framboise
•Chocolate hearts with cream filling and Francis Coppola Diamond Collection Black Label Cabernet Sauvignon
"The creamy flavors of chocolate go best with full-bodied wines like those that California produces," Maclean says.♠
San Francisco Bay Guardian
February 6, 2008
By Molly Freedenberg
Want to seduce someone this Valentine's Day? Just share a glass of wine (or three) with your sweetheart. Wine is liquid sensuality: its heady bouquet stimulates the appetite and its velvet caress soothes that desire. What other drink is described as both voluptuous and muscular? And when you pair wine with the mouth-coating luxury of chocolate, the combination is impossible to resist.
We asked Natalie Maclean, author of Red, White and Drunk All Over and the woman behind the food-wine matcher at www.nataliemaclean.com, to give us her romantic suggestions of chocolate pairings with California wines. Here's her top 10 list:
•Dark chocolate and Cline Ancient Vines Zinfandel, Contra Costa County
•Chocolate-covered biscotti and Beaulieu Vineyard Coastal Cabernet Sauvignon
•Chocolate-orange cake and Andrew Quady Essencia Orange Muscat
•Chocolate with nuts and Santa Barbara Winery Syrah, Santa Ynez Valley
•Milk chocolate and Greg Norman Lake County Zinfandel
•Bittersweet chocolate and Round Hill Cabernet Sauvignon California
•Chocolate-dipped fruit and Gallo Frei Ranch Zinfandel, Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma
•Chocolate ganache truffles and Toasted Head Shiraz California
•Chocolate raspberry cheesecake and Bonny Doon Framboise
•Chocolate hearts with cream filling and Francis Coppola Diamond Collection Black Label Cabernet Sauvignon
"The creamy flavors of chocolate go best with full-bodied wines like those that California produces," Maclean says.
For more pairings — including a variety of wines from all regions paired with a wide range of foods — visit her Web site, check out her book, or join the 85,000 people who are subscribed to her free e-newsletter.
www.nataliemaclean.com
San Gabriel Valley Tribune
February 9, 2008
By Peg Rahn
Q. Have any fun things to eat, drink and be merry for Valentine’s Day? I’m tired of the heart-shaped cookie routine! Maybe something with an adult beverage and sinful chocolate would be nice…ideas? Amelia Clark, San Marino
A. Here’s a fun exercise “50 Ways to Keep Your Lover this Valentine’s Day” presented by Natalie MacLean, author of “Red, White and Drunk All Over: A Wine-Soaked Journey from Grape to Glass.”
The four-time James Beard Journalism Award winner not only suggests pairing wine with the mouth-coating luxury of chocolate, she gives the reader wines to complement 50 chocolate dishes on her online matching tool at www.NatalieMacLean.com/matcher--that’s almost one a week for a year!
Hey, we chocoholics love that. Talk about a combination that’s impossible to resist. Just click on “desserts” to find pairings for chocolate mud pie to chocolate cheese cake.
Below, find Natalie’s top 10 wine and chocolate matches:
1. Dark Chocolate and Banyuls, France
2. Chocolate-Covered Biscotti and Recioto Della Valpolicella, Italy
3. Chocolate-Orange Cake and Liqueur Muscat, Australia
4. Chocolate with Nuts and Tawny Port, Portugal
5. Milk Chocolate and Tokaji, Hungary
6. Bittersweet Chocolate and Amarone, Italy
7. Chocolate-Dipped Fruit and Icewine, Canada
8. Chocolate Ganache Truffles and Sauternes, France
9. Chocolate Raspberry Cheesecake and Framboise, California
10. Chocolate Hearts with Cream Filling and Cream Sherry, Spain
P.S. Natalie’s online food-and-wine matcher doesn’t just focus on chocolate. The interactive tool has thousands of wines to pair with any dish: meat, pasta, seafood, vegetarian fare, pizza, eggs, cheese and dessert. You simply choose the food or wine from a drop-down menu to get the pairing suggestions. There are also lots of recipes for those planning a romantic meal. I really like the chapter with advice on pairing wine with five challenging foods: chocolate, cheese, spicy dishes, vegetables and fast food. Got a dish or a wine to stump Natalie? Just e-mail her via her web site and she’ll suggest a match for you.
San Jose Mercury News
March 26, 2007
Wine Pairing Made Easy
By Carolyn Jung
Stumped about what wine to serve with dim sum? Or seared, peppercorn-crusted tuna? Or black forest cake?
Or conversely, what food to showcase your dynamite bottle of Sparkling Shiraz?
Look no further than award-winning wine writer Natalie McLean’s new “wine and food matcher'’ on her web site. This handy-dandy tool offers you two options: Either choose a specific food to come up with the matching wine, or choose the wine to figure out what dish best suits it.
One especially nice touch is that the food listings are pretty detailed. It’s not just “seafood.'’ Instead, you can choose from barbecued fish to crab cakes with spicy tartar sauce to lobster with saffron. And the “ethnic food'’ listings include everything from chicken korma to Peking duck to Thai green curry.
Once you’ve figured out what wine goes best with what, there’s a handy link to search for McLean’s most recent reviews on that particular varietal.
For the record, McLean recommends Nierstein, Liebfraumilch (a Riesling blend) or Sauvignon Blanc with dim sum; a New World-style Cabernet Sauvignon with the seared peppercorn tuna; and Recioto Della Valpolicella, Sparkling Shiraz, or Riesling Spatlese with the wedge of black forest cake.
As for that Sparkling Shiraz you’ve been saving, it’s more versatile than you might think. Besides the black forest cake, McLean says to enjoy it with blinis, pates, goat cheese, chocolate, Asian dishes with black bean sauce, Peking duck, pork with hoisin and honey, foie gras, ham, or turkey.
Sarasota Herald-Tribune
February 20, 2008
By Linda Brandt
The creamy flavors of chocolate go best with sweet, full-bodied, high-alcohol wines, says Natalie MacLean at her Web site, nataliemaclean.com/matcher. There you will find wines to complement 50 chocolate dishes. But desserts and chocolate are not the only foods she addresses. In fact, this is a fun and interesting Web site for anyone even remotely interested in wine. You will want to bookmark it.
Saskatoon Star-Phoenix
March 17, 2008
By Chris Cobb
The Saskatoon Star-Phoenix published the same story as the Ottawa Citizen.
Sharing Travel Experiences
By Andy Hayes
How did you become such an authority on wine? It must truly be your passion.
Lots of drinking! You learn over time … As they say, there’s no substitute for pulling corks. I let my curiosity guide me. I will always be an enthusiastic amateur, never an “expert.” :)
I love your purple prose – especially your view on wine writing: “…when I read about wine, I often get the odd impression that it has no alcohol in it”. Did you have any worries on telling it ‘like it is’ in your book?
None whatsoever. This is my point of view and that’s what readers want from me. My style and approach isn’t for everyone, but if you enjoy all aspects of wine, from the intellectual to the sensory to the purely hedonistic, I’m your woman.
Where did you travel for the book?
I traveled to France to explore two of its most coveted regions, Burgundy and Champagne; and then I went to California to visit two of the fastest growing regions, Sonoma and Santa Cruz. Other chapters also involved travel, though not to wine regions. I worked in wine shops in San Francisco and New York; hosted a wine tasting and dinner party in Ottawa; and worked as a sommelier in Quebec.
For my readers thinking about doing a wine-oriented trip, which region(s) in the world would you recommend? Should they go on an organized tour or research something themselves?
Wherever their palate takes them … Visit the regions of the wines you like best. Organized or independent depends on your personality. Do your homework online first though.
Thanks for sharing all that good stuff, Nat. If you needed another reason to visit her website, then go check out the wine and food matcher. A must have for any party planner or host!
Sirene
December 20, 2006
By Maarten Dessing
(Translated from Dutch.)
Drinking wine can lead to drunkenness. In Red, White and Drunk All Over, Natalie MacLean doesn’t beat around the bush. During her journey to vineyards, wineries, wine stores, tastings and restaurants with exquisite wine lists, the author shows her lust for alcohol more than once. She comes from a long line of heavy whisky and beer drinkers so with her passion for wine, Natalie makes her family proud.
Or does she? When the dazzling wine writer takes her seat in the library of her Amsterdam hotel, it is impossible to imagine that she would ever secretly swallow too much wine at a tasting or order one bottle too many during dinner.
"I've only been drunk once, when I was in my early twenties," she admits. "But that wasn’t because of wine. I drank vodka shooters. I just don’t want to be a hypocrite when it comes to the alcohol in wine. There is a reason why people write so much about wine and not about orange juice, and that is the glow you get from wine."
It is this down-to-earth approach to the ‘nectar of the gods’ that makes Red, White and Drunk All Over such a remarkable book. The former marketing employee of a high-tech computer company tells the story from grape to glass with as much taste and passion as expertise. The book contains the complete story of wine. MacLean visited vineyards in France and California and worked in stores and five-star restaurants. She describes how you can start your own wine cellar. And how you can drink the cellar empty again.
Her seemingly superior knowledge of wine makes it hard to believe that MacLean hasn’t been a wine writer her entire life. Up until 1998 she was merely an interested amateur. When she was on maternity leave that year she needed something to do. In a magazine of the local supermarket she encountered numerous recipes. But what was missing was advice on which wines to drink. She called the editor to ask if she could write about wine. She could.
In just a short period of time the accredited sommelier worked her way up to being one of the world’s most loved wine writers. Her fortnightly e-mail newsletter full of advice on new wines has more than sixty thousand subscribers. She has won numerous prestigious awards for her articles and was voted World’s Best Drink Writer.
Q: With all this in mind, a book would seem the next logical step. However, in your epilogue you write that you wanted to wait much longer with writing this book. Why?
A: Writing a book is a challenging assignment. Not until the editor of a publisher approached me, did I dare to seriously consider it. I hired a literary agent and talked to many publishers, including foreign ones. the publishing house Sirene from the Netherlands wanted to publish my book based on the outline. Gradually this outline changed, but the core remained the same: I wanted to tell the story from grape to glass.
Q: For your book, you picked grapes, worked as a wine retailer for a day and were a sommelier. That’s not something you see often in wine books.
A: Those experiences helped me to write about wine in a more rich, profound and visual way. It’s the same approach you might take when writing a novel about Amsterdam. You'd have to live there for at least a few months to be credible and to capture the vibe of the place. Working as a sommelier, for example, helped me realize how challenging it is to give good wine advice on the spot.
Q: For whom did you want to write this book: the young wine lover who has just discovered the joys of wine, or the expert?
A: Both. For example, I wanted to give those who saw the movie Sideways, and are enjoying wine for the first time, more know-how so they would be confident enough to ask questions in stores or restaurants. I tried to avoid technical terms as much as possible. At the same time I wanted to give those who consider themselves experts a book of interesting stories, gossip and insider information. That is why I visited wineries that are usually not open to the public, such as Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, considered to be the best pinot noir in the world by some people.
Q: At the same time you tell both types of wine drinkers that it’s not about knowledge but about their own taste.
A: That’s right. Enjoying the wine is what matters most. More than other alcoholic beverages, wine has an intellectual attraction. There is so much to know about its history, regions, methods to grow grapes, and the role of wine in society, culture and religion. But wine is also the most sociable of all drinks. It is a slow, meditative drink that is made for conversation.
Q: Wine lovers shouldn’t blindly trust ratings, but develop their own personal taste, you argue. Still, in your newsletters you also rate the wine you judge.
A: Many North Americans follow ratings. We rate restaurants, movies and wine. But I mention that my grades are not objective or scientific; they simply express my taste. I hope that people also read the short descriptions. So if I give a full-bodied wine a high rating, they would still think: I don’t like full-bodied wines so I’m going to buy another one. And if they find out that my taste doesn’t match theirs, they should find another critic.
Q: You describe how many wine critics taste hundreds of wines in a row and that after a while only the powerful, fruity wines stand out. That makes their judgment rather disputable. How do you go about tasting wine?
A: Every year I take two to three big trips to wine regions. The rest I taste at home: two evenings a week, about twenty to thirty wines each time. Before dinner I spend a couple of minutes on each wine. If I don’t like the taste or the wine isn’t worth the money, I don’t mention them at all. Once a month I also go to a big tasting for all the wine professionals in the region. We taste about two hundred wines there.
Q: In your book it is striking that out of all the experts, including yourself, not one grew up in a wine drinking family. Why do you think that is?
A: That's because most of them are North Americans. In North America the wine tradition is still young compared to Europe. Whisky and beer used to be the alcoholic beverages. The new generation, however, takes wine courses, reads books about wine, and travels to vineyards on vacation. Only recently did the number of wine drinkers exceed the number of beer drinkers. If you consider movies like Sideways and A Good Year, you realize that wine is only just becoming part of mainstream culture. For the next generation, wine will be just as common as it is in Europe.
Q: Producing wine is also relatively new in North America. You quote a winemaker who says that wines from the New World will never be as good as European wines. At the same time, interest in French wine is decreasing.
A: That’s true. Wines from the New World are conquering the market. People love to drink them. With the benchmark wines from France, Italy and Spain, you can taste where they are made. The balance is sublime and their taste remains exquisite for much longer. The wines from the New World have the sweet taste that so many people love. But that’s not the only thing: they are better priced than the often expensive French wines, they are better marketed because of understandable, informative labels and you can immediately drink them. They don’t need to ripen in a cellar for five years. That is why French wines are losing territory.
Q: Isn’t it true that champagne is the only French wine that keeps doing well?
A: It is. Champagne is made from a blend of grapes from different years, the quality is high, and the wine lover doesn’t have to remember regional differences or which year was the best. You only have to discover if you like Veuve Clicquot, Bollinger or another brand.
Q: The New World experiments more with wine than the Old World. Will those wines, the ones from Australia, America and Chile, ever be the best?
A: Why not? The Old World has a much longer tradition and the making of wine is perfected. The New World, however, has just as much potential. The advantage that many new wine countries have is that their climates are consistently warm so they can deliver the same quality year after year. There already are many cult wines. A bottle of California Cabernet can easily cost more than $300.
Q: Every wine lover has that one moment in which they suddenly appreciate wine. In your case it was the brunello that was served to you in a restaurant right after you graduated. But how can one glass turn someone into a wine lover?
A: Up until that moment I had only drunk bad wines. At home we only drank wine at Christmas and Easter; often from the same box. Not until I graduated could my husband and I afford to go to good restaurants. I still remember the aromas and the taste that the brunello.
Q: It still took many more years before you started to write about wine. Why?
A: Self-confidence ... or lack thereof. I took courses, trained to be a sommelier and in the meantime I wrote success stories about clients for the marketing department of a high-tech company. I have always loved language. But I never considered writing about wine until I was on maternity leave.
Q: During the courses you took, didn’t you have the idea that you could express the taste sensation of wine much better than your fellow students?
A: Oh no, not at all. I don’t claim to have a better palette than others. Once I started to write about wine I discovered that the subject was a great excuse to write, and a way to enjoy life more fully.
Smart Money Magazine
December 19, 2006
By Kelli B. Grant
Rappers pay homage to it. Marilyn Monroe was rumored to have bathed in it. And it's probably what's in your glass when you're toasting the new year, your anniversary or any other special occasion.
Champagne has long been synonymous with luxury. Although it is a sparkling wine, make no mistake — not all sparkling wines are Champagne. The only wines that can bear the name are those produced in the Champagne region of France — an area particularly primed (thanks to cold weather and chalky soil) for creating the more earthy taste that Champagne is known for. (Other types of sparking wines tend to be fruity.) This, combined with a rigorous dual-fermentation process (called Méthode Champenoise) make drinking Champagne a more decadent experience than other sparkling wines, says Hervé Rousseau, owner of Flûte, a Champagne lounge in New York. "You can taste the difference," he says. "Four doors, fancy headlights, leather seats. It's a real luxury ride."
Still, when it comes to choosing Champagne, you should be guided by your own personal taste and palate, says Rousseau. The good news is you can find a quality bottle for less than $50. Here are five factors to consider:
Cuvée. Most houses produce several blends or varieties, or "cuvées," of Champagne:
Nonvintage. These blends epitomize the house's signature style, with little variation over the years, says Natalie MacLean, a sommelier and author of Red, White and Drunk All Over. Although these bottles are the cheapest a house produces, they can be of exceptional quality. Creating the same taste year after year is no easy feat. Often, more than 100 different wines from different years are included in the blend.
Vintage. Wine connoisseurs look for dated, or vintage bottles, which are only produced when a season's harvest is especially good. "You're going to taste the difference the weather makes each year," says MacLean. Which year is a vintage or a dated bottle is up to the house. "Not every house will create a vintage every year," says Emanuelle Chiche, managing director of The Bubble Lounge, a sparkling wine and Champagne bar with locations in New York and San Francisco. Expect to spend double the price of a nonvintage blend — and more still for a truly strong growing year. If you're set on a vintage bottle, conduct a little research on good growing years. Most recently, 1995, 1996, and 2002 were all considered exceptional years.
Prestige Cuvée. If you really want to live like a rock star (or rapper, as the case may be), seek out the house's pride and joy, the so-called prestige cuvée. (Think Louis Roederer's Cristal, or Moët & Chandon's Dom Perignon.) These wines are, quite simply, the house's best of the best in a vintage year, says Chiche. They are held to higher standards of production, made in limited quantities from the first pressing of the very best grapes. And you can bet the price reflects that. A 1996 Dom Perignon, for example, starts at $150.
Age. Generally speaking, the older the bottle the more developed and nuanced its flavor, says Eric Benn, co-owner of The Bubble Lounge. A nonvintage blend should be drunk within three years, while a vintage bottle can usually be kept for 10 to 15 years. But older isn't always better, he cautions — you'll need to have great faith in your supplier that the bottle has been transported carefully and stored properly over the years.
Grapes. Only three grapes can be used to produce Champagne, says MacLean: Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay. Most use a blend of all three. You'll also see rosés, which have a nonsparkling red wine added late in the process, and single-grape bottles. Blanc de Blancs use exclusively Chardonnay, while Blanc de Noir are solely Pinot grapes.
Base your pick on your regular wine choices — if you prefer reds, look for more Pinot grapes; whites, more Chardonnay. Fewer rosé and single-grape wines are produced, so expect to pay slightly more for these bottles.
Sweetness. Prefer dry wines? Don't be fooled into picking up "extra dry" Champagne. From driest to sweetest, Champagnes are labeled as: super brut, extra brut, brut, extra dry (extra sec), sec (dry), demi-sec and doux.
Moët & Chandon, Veuve Cliquot, Perrier-Jouët — you don't need to know much about Champagne to recognize these big-name winemakers. But there are actually more than 100 Champagne houses, each with its own unique style. "It's amazing the palate differences you have house to house," says Rousseau. Go beyond the names you know, he suggests. Smaller houses such as Henri Abele or Gosset produce excellent Champagne; they just don't have the same marketing clout of the larger houses. Bonus: Boutique wines typically cost less.
Smart Money Magazine
December 30, 2009
By Kelli Grant
Rappers pay homage to it. Marilyn Monroe was rumored to have bathed in it. And it's probably what's in your glass when you're toasting the new year, your anniversary or any other special occasion.
Champagne has long been synonymous with luxury. Although it is a sparkling wine, make no mistake — not all sparkling wines are Champagne. The only wines that can bear the name are those produced in the Champagne region of France — an area particularly primed (thanks to cold weather and chalky soil) for creating the more earthy taste that Champagne is known for. (Other types of sparking wines tend to be fruity.)
This, combined with a rigorous dual-fermentation process (called Méthode Champenoise) make drinking Champagne a more decadent experience than other sparkling wines, says Hervé Rousseau, owner of Flûte, a Champagne lounge in New York. "You can taste the difference," he says. "Four doors, fancy headlights, leather seats. It's a real luxury ride."
Still, when it comes to choosing Champagne, you should be guided by your own personal taste and palate, says Rousseau. The good news is you can find a quality bottle for less than $50. Here are five factors to consider:
House
Moët & Chandon, Veuve Cliquot, Perrier-Jouët — you don't need to know much about Champagne to recognize these big-name winemakers. But there are actually more than 100 Champagne houses, each with its own unique style. "It's amazing the palate differences you have house to house," says Rousseau. Go beyond the names you know, he suggests. Smaller houses such as Henri Abele or Gosset produce excellent Champagne; they just don't have the same marketing clout of the larger houses. Bonus: Boutique wines typically cost less.
Cuvée
Most houses produce several blends or varieties, or "cuvées," of Champagne:
Nonvintage
These blends epitomize the house's signature style, with little variation over the years, says Natalie MacLean, a sommelier and author of "Red, White and Drunk All Over." Although these bottles are the cheapest a house produces, they can be of exceptional quality. Creating the same taste year after year is no easy feat. Often, more than 100 different wines from different years are included in the blend.
Vintage
Wine connoisseurs look for dated, or vintage bottles, which are only produced when a season's harvest is especially good. "You're going to taste the difference the weather makes each year," says MacLean. Which year is a vintage or a dated bottle is up to the house. "Not every house will create a vintage every year," says Emanuelle Chiche, managing director of The Bubble Lounge, a sparkling wine and Champagne bar with locations in New York and San Francisco. Expect to spend double the price of a nonvintage blend — and more still for a truly strong growing year. If you're set on a vintage bottle, conduct a little research on good growing years. Most recently, 1995, 1996, and 2002 were all considered exceptional years.
Prestige Cuvée
If you really want to live like a rock star (or rapper, as the case may be), seek out the house's pride and joy, the so-called prestige cuvée. (Think Louis Roederer's Cristal, or Moët & Chandon's Dom Perignon.) These wines are, quite simply, the house's best of the best in a vintage year, says Chiche. They are held to higher standards of production, made in limited quantities from the first pressing of the very best grapes. And you can bet the price reflects that. A 1996 Dom Perignon, for example, starts at $150.
Age
Generally speaking, the older the bottle the more developed and nuanced its flavor, says Eric Benn, co-owner of The Bubble Lounge. A nonvintage blend should be drunk within three years, while a vintage bottle can usually be kept for 10 to 15 years. But older isn't always better, he cautions — you'll need to have great faith in your supplier that the bottle has been transported carefully and stored properly over the years.
Grapes
Only three grapes can be used to produce Champagne, says MacLean: Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay. Most use a blend of all three. You'll also see rosés, which have a nonsparkling red wine added late in the process, and single-grape bottles. Blanc de Blancs use exclusively Chardonnay, while Blanc de Noir are solely Pinot grapes.
Base your pick on your regular wine choices — if you prefer reds, look for more Pinot grapes; whites, more Chardonnay. Fewer rosé and single-grape wines are produced, so expect to pay slightly more for these bottles.
Sweetness
Prefer dry wines? Don't be fooled into picking up "extra dry" Champagne. From driest to sweetest, Champagnes are labeled as: super brut, extra brut, brut, extra dry (extra sec), sec (dry), demi-sec and doux.
Raise Your Glass
Now that you've purchased a bottle, get ready to enjoy it:
Storing
Consistency is the key, says Benn. "Champagne is a fragile item," he says. "You don't want to shock it. That will alter its taste." Stand the bottle upright in a dark, cool place (say, the bottom of your closet) and don't move it.
Chilling
Stash your Champagne in the fridge overnight, or at minimum, for three hours before serving. Need a quick chill? Don't use the freezer — the bottle could explode. Instead, place the bottle in a bucket with ice, water and a little salt (the salt melts the ice, which creates a slushy mixture that cools the bottle quickly). Leave it there for about 20 minutes.
Opening
Opening a bottle of Champagne can be a little risky. "The pressure in a bottle of Champagne is equal to the tires on a city bus," says MacLean. Use caution, and a healthy dose of common sense. Don't shake the bottle, and don't point the cork toward anyone.
To open the bottle properly, undo the wire and keep your hand on top of the cork. "Grasp the cork in one hand and turn the bottle with the other," says Sharon Castillo, director of Office of Champagne, USA, which represents the Champagne houses. The cork should ease out slowly, aided by that pressure within the bottle. "Try to minimize the sound," she says. "You want to avoid the loud pop." The louder the noise, the more carbon dioxide is escaping — and the less fizzy your wine will be.
Serving
Champagne flutes are de rigueur, but the best glass for preserving the fizz and wine aromas is one that's tulip-shaped. When you hold the glass, touch the stem only. "It has nothing to do with fanciness," Rousseau says. "If you put your fingers on the glass, it will warm up the glass and the wine."
Smart Money Magazine
February 25, 2010
By Kelli Grant
A Happier Happy Hour for Your Wallet
Want to grab a drink tonight? How about meeting at… my place.
In the tough economy, a night out drinking is looking like an indulgence. Liquor sales were flat at $18.7 billion in 2009, and volume shifted. While sales for home consumption rose 2.2%, sales for restaurants, bars, hotels and nightclubs fell 3%, according to the Distilled Spirits Council.
Another reason people are drinking less: because bars are pushing pricey premium liquors and complicated cocktails. “The best bars are charging a premium because the cocktails take a while to make,” says Noah Rothbaum, the founder of cocktail and spirits guide Liquor.com and author of “The Business of Spirits.” Freshly squeezed juices, exotic ingredients, even special ice, all add up. The more expensive a drink gets and the more likely drinkers are to savor rather than slurp.
How can you spend less without going for the cheap stuff -- or staying home? On your next night out, use these seven tricks to cut your bill:
Share a bottle
“The rule of thumb [for sellers] is to try to get the retail price of the bottle on the first glass,” says Natalie MacLean, the founder of wine education site NatDecants.com. Given that markup, ordering wine by the glass doesn’t pay if there are enough people in your party to go through a bottle. Not sure you’ll drink it all? Many states have laws permitting restaurants to re-seal bottles to take home with you.
Skip the tab
Restaurants like it when you run up a tab on a credit card because you tend to spend more. Instead, pay as you go, in cash, says Catherine Williams, the vice president of financial literacy for Money Management International, which oversees nonprofit credit-counseling agencies. It’s the best way to keep spending and drinking in moderation. “When your cash is gone, your drinks are cut off,” Williams says.
Clip coupons
Group-discount sites regularly feature discounts of up to 50% off at bars and lounges. Groupon.com, for example, recently offered Las Vegas residents $35 worth of beer and pub fare at The Outside Inn for $15. In New York, the $20 Bar & Lounge Diner’s Deck contains 52 cards for local bars, each worth $10 off a drinks purchase of $30 or more.
Stay loyal
Take a tip from the TV show “Cheers”: It’s not a bad idea to drink where everybody knows your name instead of trying a different spot each week. Bartenders tend to reward regular customers with free drinks every few rounds, says David Blend, the senior editor of guy-focused event newsletter Thrillist.com. “It gives you incentive to come back,” he says. You’ll still need to tip on that free round, though.
Some venues have loyalty programs. At The Greene Turtle Sports Bar & Grille chain in Maryland, patrons can purchase a numbered 16-ounce mug for a one-time $45 fee. The program, in place since 1978, gets you a $1 discount off regular pricing -- even during happy hour, says chief operating officer Bob Barry. (The catch: Each bar offers a limited number of mugs. To join, you may have to put your name on a wait list -- or hope to inherit a mug.)
Do the math on BYOB
With a markup of two to three times wholesale cost, wine is one of a restaurant’s reliable profit centers. But bringing your own bottle might not end up saving you much, since many owners charge a corkage fee. In most cases, that’s $5 to $10, but some fancy places charge as much as $50 -- which can more than offset any savings, says MacLean.
Check BYOB policies and corking fees at GoBYO.com, or by calling ahead. Then compare what you’d pay to buy and bring in the wine against the restaurant’s wine list prices.
Chat with the bartender
Bars don’t often have a full price list, so it pays to ask before you order something deceptively pricey, Williams says. An in-the-know mixologist can also point you to nightly beer, wine and drink specials, as well as less expensive liquor choices for your cocktail.
Hunt for happy hour
Despite the name, happy hour can last well into the night at some locations, Blend says. Some restaurants and bars even offer late-night happy hours after 10 p.m. to draw in night owls. Check out apps like Happy Hours and Happy Houred, which list specials spotted by other users. Since the recession hit, high-end bars have begun offering specials, too, Rothbaum says. For example, he says, Elixir in San Francisco has an Economic Stimulus Plan of discounts on select spirits served alone or in a mixed drink. Sauza Hornitos Anejo is $7 instead of $8 (a 12% discount) and Hudson Baby Bourbon $13 instead of $23 (43%).
Smart Money Magazine (2)
August 29, 2007
By Kelli Grant
Leaves aren't the only things that fall in autumn. As retailers clean out old inventory and make room for the upcoming holiday season and new year, there are plenty of bargains to be found.
Shop for the right items, and you'll see prices drop just as fast as — if not quicker than — the foliage outside. Here's our guide to what's best to buy in September, October and November.
Wine
When to Buy: September
Why: "Fall is always when the new bottles from last year's harvest show up on shelves," says Natalie MacLean, editor of Nat Decants, a wine education site. The crush of vineyards clamoring for your attention keeps prices low.
The exception: high-demand, low-supply "cult wines" like Burgundies and California Cabernets. You won't find low prices on these, says MacLean — but September is your best shot to snag these hard-to-find bottles.
Smart Money Magazine (4)
August 29, 2008
By Kelli Grant
Forget about having Champagne tastes on a beer-lover's budget.
Costs for almost every step or ingredient used in alcohol production are on the rise, from the price of malting barley for beer to the fuel costs associated with importing foreign wines, says Ilhan Geckil, a senior consultant with Anderson Economic Group, a Chicago-based research firm. And, thanks to consolidation, those rising costs are getting passed onto consumers more quickly. "If two companies represent 80% of the U.S. beer market, that makes it easier for them to put pressure on market prices," he explains.
In addition to high fuel costs, here are some of the factors that are pushing the price of your favorite nightcap higher:
Beer
Blame poor hops harvests in 2006 and 2007. "Prices on the spot market went crazy," says Jim Koch, founder of The Boston Beer Company (SAM: 44.66, -0.50, -1.10%), which brews Samuel Adams. Varieties of hops that went for $5 a pound last year go for up to $30 this year -- if they're available at all, he says. Meanwhile, malting barley has nearly doubled in price.
Wine
As a result of the weakened U.S. dollar, imported European wines are now 10% to 30% more expensive, says Michael Green, a wine and spirits consultant for Gourmet magazine. These increases are just hitting consumers now, as distributors start importing the just-released 2007 vintages.
Distilled Spirits
Higher grain and fuel costs are really starting to hit spirit makers, says Geckil. Diageo (DEO: 74.42, +0.64, +0.86%), whose brands include Captain Morgan rum, Johnnie Walker whisky and Smirnoff vodka, recently warned it would raise prices to offset a projected $440 million in additional energy and grain costs. Tequila makers are also feeling the pinch as demand for ethanol leads farmers to grow corn instead of slow-growing and less-profitable agave that they require.
To help keep your spirits high amid all this sour news, here are six ways to save on your favorite vintage, malt or brew:
Develop a taste for emerging wine markets
Some of the best value wines come from formerly untapped regions, says Natalie MacLean, editor of wine education site NatDecants.com. Try Argentina's Malbec, Chile's Cabernet Sauvignon, or South Africa's Shiraz and Sauvignon Blanc. Not only has the U.S. dollar held up favorably against these countries' currencies, but the relatively undiscovered wines are inexpensive to begin with. Within the U.S., consider Riesling from Washington and New York. "All are terrific, very affordable wines," she says.
Shop online
Many web-based liquor stores and wholesalers offer big enough deals to offset extra cost of shipping and save you money, says Green. At discount giant BevMo.com customers receive bonus discounts through the site's free loyalty club, plus a 5% coupon every time their spending totals $250. There, a 750 ml bottle of Grey Goose Vodka costs $27 (a 10% discount). Another site, AccidentalWine.com, sells wine in bottles with torn or stained labels at 20% to 40% off, simply because liquor stores and restaurants won't stock them.
Visit the warehouse club
Beer, wine and spirit prices at warehouse clubs can be up to 35% cheaper than at the supermarket or liquor store, says Teri Gault, founder of shopping site The Grocery Game. And believe it or not, some of the best deals are on high-end liquors and vintage wines, she says. At Costco (COST: 67.30, -0.51, -0.75%), for example, a bottle of 1999 Dom Perignon goes for $120 -- $39 less than the price at Wine.com. And thanks to esoteric state blue laws, you don't even need to shell out cash for a membership.
Pull out your ID
Getting carded isn't always a bad thing -- plenty of liquor stores offer age-, employer- or group-based discounts. ABC Discount Wine & Spirits in Wichita, Kan., for example, extends an extra 10% off to customers ages 55 and older.
Clip coupons
Be on the lookout for store sales and coupons, just as you would for any food item. Beer often shows up in store sale circulars, especially near the holidays, says Gault. A good source of additional coupons: online, where many manufacturers and liquor stores post printout deals on theirs or local-area web sites. Central Park Liquor in Spring Lake Park, Minn., has a 15% coupon on the Star Tribune's "Shop Minnesota" web site, good toward any one nonsale wine, beer or tobacco item.
Time your buys
Unlike beer or liquor, wine has a definite season: fall. That's when you'll find some of the best wine deals, says MacLean. "The new harvest is hitting the shelves, so they're looking to clear stock," she says. Also, buy Champagne in December, when the French houses lower their prices to compete for holiday buyers. (For more on the best times to buy everything, click here.)
Smart Money Magazine 3
July 5, 2008
By Kelli Grant
That after-dinner cocktail or glass of wine doesn't become a healthier habit just because the alcohol involved is organic. Many organic wines and spirits are calculated marketing efforts rather than health and environmental statements, says Jerald O'Kennard, director of Chicago-based reviewing group the Beverage Testing Institute.
"There's a lot of Johnny-come-lately products out there that aren't worth it," he says. Fermentation, distillation and filtering -- intrinsic parts of wine and spirit production -- eliminate any pesticides anyway, especially in high-proof alcohol like vodka. An "organically grown grapes" label is also misleading, because the winery is still allowed some 500 additives in the winemaking process, says Natalie MacLean, editor of wine education site Nat Decants.
Another negative: "Organic wine has a very short shelf life," says O'Kennard. A little "aging" on the store shelf may leave you with little more than vinegar. If you do buy an organic wine, don't buy anything older than the current vintage, and ask the store how it was stored. Heat or light may cause it to sour faster.
Smithsonian Magazine
January 2009
By Amanda Bensen
As my close friends know painfully well, I’m not exactly good at making decisions. At the wine store, I’m the customer who gets asked “Can I help you?” twice by the same salesperson because I’ve meandered between shelves for so long that they have forgotten our first encounter.
Then I usually say something brilliant like, “Can you help me find a red wine that tastes…you know, tasty…um, like the one I bought a few weeks ago…I think it was French…?”
It’s not that I’m a complete oeno-idiot. I know most of the major regions and varietals, and my palate can be downright picky (especially at parties, when it’s easy to surreptitiously abandon one’s glass after an unpleasant sip or two). But there seems to be a sensory-linguistic connection missing in my brain when it comes to describing delicious wine.
Fortunately, I just stumbled across a cool tool called the Vinogram (www.vinobilia.com/wines.en.html;vinograms). In the build-your-own version, it asks a series of questions about your taste in other areas, then uses those concrete examples to predict which wine characteristics (i.e. aged, floral, fruity, mineral) you will probably like more than others.
For example, do you prefer mild or strong cheese? (Strong.) White or dark chocolate? (Dark.) Would you rather smell “wood pitch and gasoline,” “honey and hay,” “nutty and dry apricot,” or “citrus and white flower”? (Anything but the first, please!) And so on. In most cases, it seems obvious where your answers will lead you,* but it’s still fun to see the results in graphic form.
Armed with this knowledge on my next shopping endeavor, I will seek out a “powerful, persistent, toasty” red with moderately floral, fruity and spicy notes and just a hint of sweetness. The Vinogram thinks I might like to try a Vin de Pays (”country wine”) from Languedoc, or a Merlot from Saint Emilion, among others. Of course, I’ll read the label carefully.
Between that and the helpful “Wine and Food Matcher” I found over at Natalie MacLean’s site, I may never befuddle a wine salesperson again.
*Except for this question: When shopping for Christmas presents, do you tend to buy far in advance or wait until the last minute? Unless “procrastination” is actually a wine characteristic, this is probably a marketing question that snuck in there.
South Africa Wine News
June 5, 2007
By Neil Pendock
With the United States the promised land for South African wine exports, useful information on the North American wine retail market is to be found in Natalie MacLean’s recently published Red, White & Drunk All Over. Written by the resident of Ottawa, it highlights some intriguing features of the Mondo Vino Americaine.
Like “butt-brush – the sales-killing effect of customers bumping into each other” which is a serious no-no in Manhattan wine retail, but almost impossible to avoid (in my experience) at Sherry-Lehmann Wine & Spirits on Madison Avenue, as the shop is so cramped with First Growths and Super Tuscans.
MacLean comes as a welcome antidote to Robert Parker, James Molesworth and other gurus of the male persuasion. And lady’s opinion is important as the fair sex buy 77% of the wine sold in the U.S. and drink around 60% of it. MacLean reveals that shopping behaviour is sexually based and takes place in accordance with ecological principles with men in hunter-mode, ducking in and out of a store as quickly as possible while women are gatherers, lingering to seek advice. Like “which wine pairs best with pickled boar’s feet?" Answer: "perhaps an off-dry Riesling or even a herbal Sauvignon Blanc.”
Research by Australian professor Larry Lockshin is quoted that most buyers spend an average of 38 seconds choosing a bottle, a decision based almost entirely on the label. The point is also made that at social gatherings, wine is the only consumable placed on the dinner table in its original packaging – presumably condiments like ketchup and mustard are decanted in the MacLean household.
Wine labels are seen as billboards, telling your guests what you think of them and how much you’re prepared to pay. Labels advertise your taste and sophistication (or lack thereof) and she lists three main reasons for buying wine: a search for comfort, nostalgia and adventure. As for back labels, MacLean damns them as “about as believable as a Harlequin romance... I usually advise people to skip the blurb, or at least not make it an important factor in their decision.”
Gold foil is also a no-no – “I can smell the marketing plan from across the store. I’m also suspicious when the owner’s signature is scrawled on the label: Massive Ego Alert!” So it’s probably safe to assume she is not a subscriber to the Ernie Els newsletter.
Wine is proposed as an example of the Long Tail purchasing theory advanced by Chris Anderson, editor of Wired magazine. Anderson noted that over half of Amazon.com’s online book sales come from outside their list of 130,000 best sellers. The inference drawn is that “everyone’s taste departs from the mainstream somewhere and the more we explore alternatives, the more we’re drawn to them.”
MacLean argues that wine sales have long tails as even the largest wine brands own less than 5% of the market. Certainly not the case for spirits, where a leading brand can easily command a 50% market share or the light beer market where the Top Ten account for 99% of sales. That said, her argument is contradicted by another long tail – Yellow Tail - which accounts for 35% of all Australian wine exports to America and was the first brand to move more than a million cases a month.
Not all the retail theory is of the armchair variety, with MacLean putting in a ten-hour shift at Discovery Wines in the Big Apple. Advised to wear comfortable shoes, she fronts up “in my weekend-wear Manolo Blahniks” just like a character from Sex in the City. And the conversation overheard in the aisles? “Is the winemaker single?”
South Bend Tribune
December 31, 2007
By Karen Rallo
Ring in the new year with munchies such as fruit and chocolate, paired with harvest wines or liqueur in complementary flavors such as raspberry or black currant. Author and sommelier Natalie MacLean offers information on a variety of wines. For all the details, visit www.Nataliemaclean.com.
St. Catherine's Standard
April 9, 2008
By Judy Creighton
The St. Catherine's Standard published the same story as the London Free Press.
Style at Home
May 2008
By Helen Racanelli
Top 10 summer drinks
Cool down on a hot day with this summer's tastiest thirst-quenchers.
1. Unisex coolers
"Bottled cocktails, wine cocktails or premixed drinks are always hot in the summer, especially because they are getting better," says Konrad Ejbich. Though coolers have a rep as a fruity drink women favour, the trend this summer, he says, is ready-to-drink concoctions like Absolut Cut and Hydra, which appeal to both sexes. "They're going unisex," Konrad says.
2. Strong flavours
No more flavours for the faint of heart -- now, it's all about serving up big tastes. Ranging from pomegranate to guanabana, shake things up with something wholly unexpected. "The hottest thing is vanilla -- gin, rum, everything," Konrad says. He also mentions that currant and raspberry spirits are growing in popularity. Get pouring!
3. Granita
Icy scoops of spiked granita will have guests begging for the recipe. A staple in Italian restaurants, granita can easily be made at home. The SAQ, Quebec's liquor licensing board, has delish recipes, like mango and tequila or raspberries and red wine, at saq.com.
4. Dark lagers
"Don't be afraid of the dark! These dark lagers and ales are surprisingly refreshing with hints of caramel, a malt character and a smooth, refreshing finish," says John Hay, president of Ontario Craft Brewers. He's referring to Waterloo Dark Lager, Black Jack Premium Lager, and the award-winning Neustadt 10w30 Brown Ale. Check out ontariocraftbrewers.ca.
5. Signature cocktail
Galas, launches and fabulous weddings have signature cocktails, and you should too! For your next get-together, make a signature tipple for everyone. Do you suppose sinful chocolate martinis will go untouched? Doubt it!
6. New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc
"Sauvignon blanc is the hot pick to keep us cool this summer," says Natalie MacLean, author of Red, White and Drunk All Over: A Wine-Soaked Journey from Grape to Glass. "I'm keen on crisp, refreshing white wines from New Zealand, such as those from Cooper Creek, Oyster Bay and Kim Crawford," she says. They complement summer fare like salads, shellfish and cold meats, she adds in her free wine e-newsletter at nataliemaclean.com.
7. Organic brews
Organic foods have taken off, so it's no surprise organic booze is finding its way onto a shelf near you -- everything from organic beer such as Mill St. Original Organic Lager to spirits like Juniper Green Organic London Dry Gin.
8. Apricot julep
A twist on the Southern summer classic, mint julep, apricot julep has been praised by New York super-chef Daniel Boulud as a hot cocktail party drink. Here's his recipe:
3 to 5 sprigs of mint leaves, torn into pieces
2 ounces of apricot purée
1 ounce of freshly squeezed orange juice
1.5 ounces of bourbon
0.5 ounce of apricot brandy
0.5 ounce of simple syrup (store-bought or make your own)
Combine all the ingredients in a shaker with ice. Shake and strain into a glass, topping it up with club soda.
9. Bubbly
Sparkling wine is always in style, and California bubblies are hotter than ever. Wine expert Natalie MacLean loves the moderately priced Roederer Brut from California.
10. Infused vodka
Infusing vodka with fruits, herbs and spices adds a complex flavour -- lavender and cucumber are on-trend this summer. Let marinate, then strain. Try it chilled and straight up, on the rocks, or mixed into cocktails. You'll find plenty more recipes in Infused: 100+ Recipes for Infused Liquors and Cocktails (Raincoast, August 2006).
Suite 101
April 7, 2008
By Mike Gerrard
Red, White, and Drunk All Over: A Wine-Soaked Journey from Grape to Glass, by Natalie MacLean is a book for those who want to learn about wine and laugh at the same time.
What wine goes with pizza? Or hamburgers? How to read a label and choose wine wisely in the store? How do you order wine in a fancy restaurant and not be ripped-off? How to open a bottle of champagne? Should wine lovers trust wine writers? What's it like to work in a Napa Valley vineyard making fine California wine? How to spit?
The answer to these questions, and hundreds more, is in the vastly entertaining new book by Natalie MacLean, Red, White, and Drunk All Over: A Wine-Soaked Journey from Grape to Glass. This collection of essays is by an award-winning wine writer, who is not afraid to get her hands dirty both to entertain her readers and to uncover the secrets of the wine trade.
MacLean is an accredited sommelier, so she knows what she's talking about when she becomes an 'Undercover Sommelier' at the gourmet Quebec restaurant, Le Baccara. She finds out how hard and hot the work is in a Napa Valley vineyard. She discovers what it's like to spend all day on your feet selling wine and answering customers' questions in a wine store. She dines and risks her liver with novelist and wine critic Jay McInerney, and referees the spat between two of the world's top wine writers Robert Parker and Jancis Robinson.
"I remember the night I tasted my first wine," the book begins, and by page two it's "By the time we were on our second bottle..." Natalie MacLean is definitely the wine drinker's wine writer. As she observes, wine lovers would be forgiven for thinking, when reading most wine writing, that alcohol was not involved in the process at all.
Wine is about people, too, and MacLean travels to Champagne, Bordeaux, California and elsewhere to get the stories behind the labels. At the small, family-run Maison Cazals in the heart of France's Champagne region, the author interviews Delphine Cazals, who has run the vineyard since her father died in 1996. "It is deeply pleasing to create something beautiful," says Delphine Cazals. "This bottle from the 1995 vintage – it was the last wine my father ever made."
MacLean's book is written to appeal to everyone, from the clued-up wine enthusiast to the absolute beginner who wants answers to those simple questions. The author assumes no knowledge on the part of the reader, and skillfully weaves basic facts (even stuff like how many bottles in a case) into her narratives without talking down. And there are some fascinating facts thrown in, too:
* The word 'reserve' on a wine label means absolutely nothing.
* A restaurant's house wine is seldom the best bang for your buck if you're going budget.
* 'Women buy 77 percent of wine in America and drink 60 percent of it
* Most buyers [in a store] spend an average of thirty-eight seconds on their choice – and they base it almost entirely on the label.
One reason why this is one of the best books about wine is simple: Natalie MacLean can write. References to artists and writers reveal a wider knowledge than only the wine business. There are evocative phrases on page after page, like 'I think many of us have a secret cellar in our minds where we collect our empty bottles filled with memories.' MacLean could write about any subject and make it entertaining. It's the wine lover's luck that she was seduced by the grape, and can share her passion.
Tennessee Daily News Journal
December 5, 2007
By Tony Johnston
Pairing foods with wine (or wines with food) is for some a pastime but for others a passion. The objective in looking for a good match is to complement either the food, wine or both.
There are many, many opinions and recommendations, both in print and on the Internet. I've recently discovered an excellent Internet-based tool I'm pleased to recommend to you. Check out Natalie MacLean's web site, www.nataliemaclean.com, for her food-and-wine pairing tool.
The tool Natalie offers allows you to either start with a food or a wine. The list of grape varieties included in the tool is quite extensive and can be used as an aid to explore varieties you may not have been previously aware of. The tool returns a list of foods ranging from vegetables and salads to meats and casseroles and even offers recipes to compliment the wine you select.
What more can a person ask for? For those of us who find ourselves entertaining at the last minute, this tool is an invaluable timesaver. I've found the recommendations to be varied and delightful. I'm sure you'll end up bookmarking the Web site so you can refer to it frequently.
Tony Johnston has a Ph.D. in enology and viticulture, has worked as a winemaker and consults with grape growers as well as winemakers.
That's Beijing Magazine
December 2008
By Fongyee Walker and Edward Ragg
As the kids go back to school and newly arrived overseas students crowd into Haidian, there’s a buzz of learning is in the air. As the Beijing wine world continues to expand, more and more Beijingers want to learn something about the pleasures of the grape.
Just as a course in music appreciation can help you sort what’s Baroque from what’s not, a bit of wine knowledge makes it easier to tell your Cabernet Sauvignon from Cabernet Franc or, as you advance into the murky world of wine labels, your Pouilly-Fumé from Pouilly-Fuissé.
Here in Beijing, probably the easiest way to learn about wine is to get on the web – but beware! There is the predictable gamut of misinformation on the Internet with some myths posted as fact. But some sites we wholeheartedly recommend, such as those from independent experts like Jancis Robinson (www.jancisrobinson.com – whose section “For Beginners” is a good starting-point), Jamie Goode (www.wineanorak.com) or Natalie MacLean (www.nataliemaclean.com).
Wine Australia offers a great Antipodean introduction to the basics with colorful pictures and fun games. Similarly, merchants Berry Bros. & Rudd (www.bbr.com) has a great “Wine Knowledge” section with info on major wine regions, grape types and even an amusing game with virtual butler, Pickering, to test your knowledge! YouTube also has videos on everything from riddling Champagne bottles to vine pruning.
For more live action, nothing beats the antics of Gary Vaynerchuk (tv.winelibrary.com) who bravely films all his tasting experiences. For a close-up of the Chinese wine scene, Grape Wall of China (www.grapewallofchina.com) has contributions from different columnists, interesting interviews with figures in the wine world and up-to-date information on wine events.
With books, the situation is harder. Such hefty tomes as The Oxford Companion to Wine are unavailable and weigh so much they cost an “Amazonian” fortune to be delivered. Garden Books has a small range of wine literature, including a useful introductory volume by Hugh Johnson; Beijing Bookworm carries Wine Spectator magazine and has a couple of wine books for borrowing, as well as offering periodic educational tastings with various importers.
With this in mind and armed with some basic knowledge, you can sally forth into the Beijing tasting scene with a bit more confidence. However, if learning more about wine is your goal, choose your tastings carefully. Generally, the generic wine party won’t really enhance knowledge. But look out for tastings where winery owners or, better still, the actual wine-maker is present. Use the opportunity to ask questions and learn from these people’s insights. Try to talk to whoever’s pouring the wines – some staff can be very informative. But take commercial hard-talk with a pinch of salt!
Another way is to take a wine appreciation course that offers direct teaching and hands-on learning. This is perhaps the best way to learn systematically how to taste and evaluate wine. Among the most rigorous are those certified by WSET (Wine & Spirit Education Trust), a UK-based internationally recognized wine certification body. Courses involve international standard exams and learning packs at foundation, intermediate and advanced levels. Most of these qualifications are offered by three companies around town: ASC, our own Dragon Phoenix Fine Wine Consulting, and Easescent (which also offers classes from the International Sommelier Guild). The latter two also offer their own, more relaxed, non-certification courses. Informal wine courses are also provided by the Expat learning centre (www.beijing-classes.com).
But when looking for a wine course, do remember that any class is only as good as the teacher who teaches it. Ask about the tutor’s educational experience, language-ability (no point paying to learn incorrect pronunciations!), depth of wine knowledge and success rate. Also consider the number and breadth of wines on offer.
Learning about wine should be practical, fun and informative, not competitive. A good teacher also knows that people learn in different ways: through practical tasting, helpful power points, videos, books, matching wines with food and other exercises. Above all, relax and enjoy the journey of vinous discovery!
Select Sips and Dishes
One to quaff
2006 Touraine Sauvignon Blanc “Premiere,” Pierre Chainier, Loire Valley, France (RMB 121)
This Sauvignon Blanc from the Touraine region of France’s Loire Valley represents a good alternative to the more expensive Sancerre or Pouilly-Fumé made from the same grape. Pale green color, the nose has gooseberry and green apple fruit with characteristic high acidity on the palate and refreshing length. Would make a great match with “Lagareiro,” a Portuguese dish of grilled cod, as served at Nuvem. The fresh aromas and tangy acidity of this cool-climate Sauvignon cut through the meaty richness of this dish. (Available from East Meets West, www.emw-wines.com)
One to drink
2005 Bodegas Nekeas Crianza Navarra, Spain (RMB 181)
This good-value Spanish red is made from Cabernet Sauvignon and Tempranillo. Attractive purple-red color, the nose has Cabernet’s blackcurrant fruit with the juicy, mouth-filling fruits of Tempranillo, plus savory and sweet oak. On the palate, the wine has strong fruit, lifting acidity, medium chewy tannins and good length. Would make a stylish partner to the braised pork belly and red-cooked eel served at Il et Elle. Here the vibrant fruit, deft acidity and spicy oak complement the relative richness and fatty mouth-feel of this dish. (Available from Summergate, beijing@summergate.com, 6562-5800)
One to savor
2005 Mount Langi Ghiran Riesling, Victoria, Australia (RMB 273)
Beautiful green-gold color, this stylish white offers lime fruit and mineral aromas on the nose. The palate is dry with gorgeous acidity, strong fruit and good length. From Victoria, this is a more restrained Australian Riesling than some of the powerful wines of South Australia’s Clare or Eden Valleys. Would pair beautifully with Xia xie er mian huan (crispy fried noodles covered with crab eggs and shrimps), a Shanghai dish found at Absolute Cate inside Shinkong Place. The aromatic lime flavors and refreshing acidity are great with seafood in most forms. (Available from The Wine Republic, www.thewinerepublic.com, 5869 7050)
The Associated Press
May 9, 2008
By J.M. Hirsch
When it comes to steak, conventional wisdom says the color of your wine should match the color of your meat.
But if you can't bear to quaff yet another cabernet sauvignon with your beef, there are other options, including plenty that refute convention, says Natalie MacLean, a sommelier and wine writer.
"Robust whites can also muscle in beside a steak," she says. "If you're tired of big, honkin' reds, try a California chardonnay or a French blend of marsanne and rousanne. These toasty, aromatic whites highlight the smoky notes in the meat."
But avoid light-bodied whites, which can be overshadowed by the assertive flavors of the steak.
If you'd rather color coordinate your meal, but still aren't interested in a cab, MacLean suggests other hearty reds, such as an Australian shiraz or Rhone Valley syrah.
"These wines aren't as tannic as cabernet but they pack a lot of flavor in the glass, so they stand up to the robust flavors in the meat," says MacLean, whose Web site, NatalieMacLean.com, offers reams of pairing suggestions.
And if you're looking to get outside the wine paradigm, there are other options.
"That classic cocktail, the Bloody Mary, is spectacular with steak," MacLean says. "The salt, celery and tomato ingredients are like a liquid garnish for the meat. And the sheer alcoholic heft of the drink doesn't hurt either."
The Brantford Expositor
April 10, 2008
By Judy Creighton
The Brantford Expositor published the same story as the London Free Press.
The Budget Smart Girl
June 19, 2008
By Susan Palmquist
There’s nothing that says luxury and the good life more than sitting down on the patio and sipping a glass of good wine on a hot summer’s evening. I used to think that being a Budget Smart Girl meant that I’d either have to forgo this one little pleasure, or be forced to buy a wine that wasn’t that great. However, as the philosophy of the Budget Smart Girl’s lifestyle is to have luxury but at your own price, I did some research and happy to say you can enjoy a great glass of wine at a Budget Smart price, and here’s how-
Don’t Always Look at the Price
Here are some great tips from Glen Agrittelley who’s considered to be one of Dallas’ top wine experts and owner of the Mercy Wine Bar in Addision, Texas. “Rather than look for the cheapest wine, I’d look for areas that are up and coming. Most of the wines from California are well marketed which means the price of the advertising and marketing is built into the wine. Look for wines from New York, and Hill Country of Texas that are much less known, but still have good quality and are a good value. And look outside the US. Wines from Chile, Argentina, Spain and Portugal are great values now. South African wines also fall into this category. While wines from France, Italy and Australia are of great quality; it’s harder to find the great values unless you are very knowledge about wine. Right now wines from Sicily also offer great value and good quality.
Vino
Here’s a Web site worth checking out www.vino100.com It’s a national wine franchise that offers small batch artisan wines from around the world for $25 or less. They have the Vino 100 Wine Barometer that is a graphic and easy to understand wine rating and information system that indicates how fruity to dry a wine is. And also shows how light to full bodied each bottle of wine is too. I think it’s a great resource if you’re not sure what to buy and don’t want to waste your money on something you or everyone hates.
French Wines
Here are some tips from Sherri Sauter Morano who’s based in North Carolina. She’s not only received the prestigious Master of Wine title, but is also a wine educator. Morano says if you’re looking for a good French wine visit www.wines-France.us/ click on the American flag and look under the buying guide. There you’ll find a list of 45 wines that are all under $20. Some stores she recommends include Best Sellers and Total Wine. And has this tip for preserving leftover wine. Put it in the fridge, yes, even the reds, to protect it from interacting with oxygen.
Wine Myths Demystified
Most of us waste money because of the stories we’ve heard about wine. The Wine Market Council has put together these tips to clear things up:
·Myth 1-A bottle of wine needs to be consumed the same day it is opened.
Fact-You can simply re cork and refrigerate partially consumed bottles; this way the wine should stay fresh for 3-5 days.
·Myth 2-Screw caps mean the wine is cheap.
Fact-Screw caps are now being adopted by some of the most cutting edge wineries because they eliminate the chance of corked wine and preserve the freshness of the wine longer.
Learn the Language
One of the best ways to save money is to gain some firsthand knowledge before you go shopping. Here’s a site I found that’s devoted to doing just that www.intowine.com
Check Your Local Wine Store
Where I live there are several major stores that have wine tasting events a couple of times a year. You can go along and not only sample the wine, but also get some expert advice too.
Don’t Be Afraid to Speak Up
If your local store doesn’t have wine tasting events, ask if they’ll let you taste test before you buy. When you’re on a tight budget there’s nothing worse than handing over your money for a bottle of wine that both you and your guests hate. Some stores will be accommodating, some might not be. And don’t be afraid to ask for some advice about what’s a good wine in your price range. Never be embarrassed about letting people know you have x amount of money to spend on something. Sometimes with that information up front, store clerks can help you find a really good bargain.
Red, White, and Drunk All Over
Natalie MacLean, author of Red, White, and Drunk All Over, is a freelance and independent wine writer. She says with increasing competition from new regions and more producers, there are many delicious and reasonably priced wines to be found these days. To help us get the most for our money she has the following tips:
“Look for lesser know regions within wine producing countries. For example try Washington State rather than Napa Valley, southern Italy (Campania, Sicily, Sardinia) rather than Piedmont and Tuscany. In Spain, Priorat or Rueda rather than Rioja. And in France, the Languedoc, southern Rhone and Loire regions rather than Bordeaux or Burgundy.
The Capital Times
February 11, 2008
By Michael Muckian
Being a person of the male persuasion, I am sometimes told I don't "get" chocolate. I'll admit that I like a rich, complex truffle now and then, but I'm at a loss to understand the near-orgasmic moans some women produce when swallowing such sweet sustenance.
I understand that I am not hormonally equipped to enjoy chocolate at all levels, a limitation I accept along with not being able to play the violin, dance the tango or give birth.
Given such limitations, I thought this year, in producing my pre-St. Valentine's Day wine-and-chocolates column, I'd call on several experts who could better explain the cocoa-cabernet connection. That, of course, meant talking to women.
"Why do women love wine and chocolate?" asks chocolate maker Gail Ambrosius.
"What's not to love? Take a bite of your favorite deep, dark chocolate. It's delicious on its own, but to bring out chocolate's full decadent potential, add a big, juicy wine or the warmth of a port. Now, unabashedly, shamelessly bask in the intensity of that deep, dark chocolate coupled with liquid layers of flavor and texture."
I stepped outside to lie in the snow and think about how else to approach this topic. Certainly, there's a more academic way to pair wine with chocolate, if only for the benefit of the hormonally impaired.
"Most people assume that chocolate should be paired with a dry, red wine, but this tends to be the exception rather than the rule," says Jessica Bell, founder of the Milwaukee Wine School. "Keep in mind the basic guideline for pairing food with wine: Your wine should be at least as sweet as your food."
That's certainly less erotic, and a lot more practical for menu planners. But why should the wine be as sweet as the food?
"When your food is sweeter than your wine, the food will steamroll the wine's flavors, leaving it bitter, dusty and even flavorless," Bell adds. "For this reason, the all-time classic wine pairing for chocolate is port."
The residual sweetness of port tends to balance better with chocolate, Bell explains. Ruby ports go better with dark bittersweet chocolate, and tawny ports better with milk chocolate or any chocolate with nuts. The chocolate's sugar subdues the wine's sweetness, allowing fruit, floral and spicy notes to come center stage. By comparison, the wine will taste drier when compared to the chocolate.
That's not all. Bell also suggests a sweet wine from Spain's Jumilla region made from the grape Monastrell, particularly from producer Bodegas Olivares, that pairs well with dark chocolate.
Or try an Italian amarone, a big, often expensive red produced from Corvina grapes that have been dried in the sun. The wine's high alcohol content and plush mouth-feel also make it a perfect dark chocolate match, she says.
"If you're a die-hard red wine drinker, try a lower-priced zinfandel from Seghesio or Bogle vineyards," Bell adds. "At these prices, the wines will be softer and rounder than cabernet sauvignons, both favorable characteristics for pairing wines with dark, high-cocoa chocolate."
Are there more such matches? Wine and food writer Natalie MacLean, author of "Red, White and Drunk All Over," falls right in line with many of Bell's suggestions, especially those involving port and amarone. Other suggestions found at www.nataliemaclean.com include:
* Milk chocolate and Tokaji, a sweet Hungarian wine that comes in pint bottles.
* Chocolate-dipped fruit and Canadian icewine.
* Chocolate ganache truffle and Sauternes, the sweet white chateau-bottle Bordeaux.
* Chocolate-covered biscotti and Recioto della Valpolicella, the Italian red from Tuscany.
* Dark chocolate and Banyuls, a fortified French aperitif produced from grapes cultivated on the slopes of the Pyrenees Mountains.
Those are all good suggestions, designed to make the most from the chocolate and wine pairing. But what does the chocolate maker herself think? Amarone, dessert wines and sparklers rank high on Ambrosius' list, choices that contain recommendations from local wine experts, several of whom are men.
Here are some surprise picks:
* Alma Negra, a sparkling Argentine chardonnay, maintains a rich, creamy mouth-feel with notes of apple and citrus. With its crisp finish, the wine pairs well with Ambrosius' Caramels with Sea Salt and Cinnamon/Cayenne Truffle.
* Saumur-Champigny, a wine made with 100 percent Cabernet Franc grapes, has rich, velvety tannins and subtle cherry overtones. The red pairs perfectly with the chocolate maker's 99 percent Truffle and seasonal Sour Cherry offering.
* Don David Tannat, another Argentinian, is a deep, bone-dry red with an abyss of tannins and delicate raspberry character. Sip it with Ambrosius' 99 percent gold-dusted truffle or Palette d'Or, made with 75 percent Tanzanian chocolate.
Whichever you try, Ambrosius suggests that you take the time to enjoy every mouthful, slowly and with great relish.
"Sip, savor and allow yourself to be carried away by the waves of guilt-free pleasure," Ambrosius says. "Every combination is sensuous, lush, tantalizing, delectable and irresistible. Like the Venus in every woman!"
Time to head back to the snowbank.
The Catham Daily News
December 26, 2007
By Judy Creighton
The Chatham Daily News published the same story as the Winnipeg Free Press.
The Charlatan
April 2009
By Elise Milbradt
Students can enjoy wine at mealtimes without having to shell out big bucks, said Natalie MacLean, an accredited sommelier and author of Red, White, and Drunk All Over: A Wine-Soaked Journey from Grape to Glass. “Wine is an ideal way to dress up all sorts of dishes that are fairly straightforward,” she said. “It’s like putting rhinestones on jeans.”
MacLean said students should look for wines that are undervalued and underpriced, such as wines from Chile, Argentina and South Africa. She suggested trying popcorn with Chilean chardonnay, nachos with California Zinfandel, potato chips with French Champagne, pizza with Italian Chianti and hamburgers with Australian Shiraz. With spaghetti and other pasta, MacLean said to go with a regional match. “Go for any Italian red,” she recommended,“because when food and wine grow up together they often have some similar flavour elements.” And with the inevitable macaroni and cheese dinner, she said to uncork an oaky chardonnay from Chile.
For those trying to pair food and wine, she said to keep three things in mind: flavour, texture and weight. In all three categories, you are looking to complement or contrast. For example, when eating a rich, creamy dish, she suggested trying a zippy and refreshing wine like a New Zealand sauvignon blanc.
“But the best match is between you and the wine you like,” she said. “You shouldn’t drink something just
because some wine expert told you it goes with your dish. Don’t give up your pleasure. Don’t surrender it to a critic.”
The Chroncile Herald
July 18, 2010
By Silver Donald Cameron
"You people," sighed the Silicon Scout, shaking his head. "You and your websites. The web is like, so over."
We sit on a non-profit board of directors together, the Scout and I. He’s one of the guys known to technology marketers as "early adopters." The first guy with a cellphone, a fax machine, an MP3 player. The first guy with an infrared mouse for his computer. The first guy to send you photos he took on his phone. (On his phone?)
The Scout is considerably younger than most of us — well, he would be, wouldn’t he? — and during the breaks in the meetings, he would be texting and surfing on his iPhone. If we needed to know the price of a doughnut in Dacca, the Scout could find out in a wink.
So there we were, trying to figure out what was needed on our organization’s website, and here was the Scout, heaving youthful sighs and saying, "You people. You and your websites. The web is like, so over."
Over? The Internet is over? I was utterly bewildered.
Well, no. The Internet is not over. But the World Wide Web is not the Internet. The web lies on the Internet like a quilt on a bed — and, like a quilt, it makes the Internet much more comfortable and attractive. And the web remains — but the action has moved to "social media" like Twitter, MySpace, LinkedIn and, above all, Facebook.
I wrote about social media in 2008, when Facebook had only been accessible to the general public for two years and already had 100 million users. Twitter, even younger, made me quite crotchety, with its ceaseless drizzle of 140-character "tweets" about users going for coffee, praying for rain and scratching themselves privily. What, I asked, "is the point of this torrent of narcissistic nonsense?"
Good question. But it missed the larger issue, which is that the web is relatively static and passive, and social media are dynamic. A website is like a brochure or a billboard, providing information to people who come looking. A social media site is a conversation, a buzz, an instantaneous international grapevine.
Your Facebook or Tumblr or YouTube page is a busker’s performance. You put your stuff out there and passersby look at it, engage you in conversation or walk on by. If they like it, they tweet to the grapevine and the world comes to watch.
So, for example, in the nine days after Susan Boyle sang that electrifying version of I Dreamed a Dream on British television in April 2009, YouTube videos of the performance were watched more than 100 million times. Think of that: a hundred million times! When her album came out in November, it sold nine million copies in six weeks, becoming the bestselling album of the year.
Barack Obama largely owes his presidency to his ability to galvanize people and generate huge streams of cash by using social media. During the World Cup, reporters were tweeting furiously on their smartphones while the action was still unfolding — reporting not to their editors but directly to the hordes following them on Twitter.
Social media allow smart entrepreneurs to create great instant businesses and to reach customers they could never reach before. The trick is to pick a niche, create great content within that niche and give a lot of it away.
Natalie MacLean, for example, a Cape Bretoner with a spectacularly successful wine site, gives away tons of information about wine and food.
She’ll even provide you with a little program for your smartphone that allows you to browse her recommendations as you cruise the aisles of the liquor store.
If you want her reviews of specific wines, complete with matched food recipes, it’s only $2.10 a month.
Facebook was cooked up in a Harvard dorm in 2004 by a couple of undergraduates. Today it’s an $11.5-billion company with 400 million users. Entertainment Weekly summed it up thus: "How on earth did we stalk our exes, remember our co-workers’ birthdays, bug our friends and play a rousing game of Scrabulous before Facebook?"
How indeed?
The Chronicle Herald
May 29, 2007
By Bill Spurr
Just as we put away sweaters and hockey gear at this time of year, replacing them with shorts and golf clubs, so too is it the time to adjust our wine-drinking habits to reflect the changing seasons.
"We want to cast off all the heavy, alcoholic, over-oaked wines that might have comforted us and warmed us in the winter," says noted wine author Natalie MacLean.
"Now we want light wines that go with seafood, shellfish ... because if you’re sitting out on the deck and it’s hot, the last thing you want is a really hot, alcoholic wine."
The most important rule of wine consumption, drink what you like, remains in effect no matter the weather. But for most, lighter drinking in the summer generally means more consumption of whites.
"Although pinot noir is a nice light red wine and it goes really well with salmon, a beautiful summer dish," said MacLean, the Lower Sackville native whose book Red, White and Drunk All Over earned glowing reviews from the New York Times and the Financial Times of London.
"But the light whites I’m thinking of are Canadian Rieslings, Nova Scotia’s L’Acadie Blanc, which is beautiful with shellfish.
"Often with these wines, because they’re grown in a cool climate, the grapes don’t ripen as much, which translates into less sugar, which translates into less alcohol. So they’re very refreshing, very fruity — still full of flavour but just not as alcoholic."
Typically, meals prepared on the barbecue evoke images of a nearby tub of beer on ice, but lots of grilled foods are made even more enjoyable by pairing them with the right wine.
"Well, I think beer is great. I wouldn’t get away from it, I’d just do both," MacLean said.
"It doesn’t have to be either/or, but if you think of any foods that beer goes with, try champagne or sparkling wine with it because you have the same elements. You have the effervescence that beer has and the toastiness. Beer is a thirst quencher, especially on a hot day, but chilled bubbly from many countries will go just as well and I find it less filling.
"If you think of fish and chips, barbecue, whatever you’d eat with beer, substitute sparkling wine and you’ll find it an interesting combination."
MacLean pointed out that one advantage of wine over beer in terms of summer drinking is that wine isn’t as affected by bright sunlight.
"Wine is bottled in dark glass . . . and it’s less sensitive to going skunky than beer is, so it doesn’t go off as much.
"That said, if you’re out on a hot day, you want to keep it in the shadows or somewhere at least cool because for reds and whites, they can get too hot and then really taste flabby and hot. It brings out the alcohol taste when wine gets too warm."
MacLean's Picks
Steak
"For barbecued steak, I'd suggest a robust red - Australian Shiraz, California or Chilean Cabernet, Argentina for Malbec, and I would stick to those New World countries as opposed to going to France, because the reds there are very elegant and are meant to be paired with less robust flavors. With steak, you've already got a very hearty flavor and it becomes even more flavorful on the grill, so you really need a honkin' big red."
Chicken
"You can go just about any way with chicken and it really depends on the sauce. So if you've got a spicy rub and you're barbecuing it, you could go with a really big red. If you're just roasting chicken or if you have a very plain sauce, go with light whites. Chicken has a big range, which is good because most of us eat a lot of chicken."
Pork
"Sauce plays a big role but you can go either way with the reds and whites. I would go with red berry wines like Zinfandel, which has a nice zing to it. It has some spice and some bright berry flavors. But you can also veer into whites with pork, like a round Chardonnay, or what would be even better is a Riesling that's off dry, with just a touch of sweetness."
Sausages
"You've got a touch of sweetness with (honey garlic sausages), so again you want a New World red because you want the robust flavors but in New World you get a sweet fruit flavor. That doesn't mean it's sweet, it could still be dry, but because the fruit tastes sweet you get a perception of sweet that would go with sausages."
The Clarion-Ledger
January 30, 2008
By Steve Austin
To fund her late-night vinous habits, Natalie MacLean holds down day jobs as a wine writer, speaker and judge. An accredited sommelier, she is a member of the National Capital Sommelier Guild, the Wine Writers Circle and several French wine societies. You'll see her wine columns and consumption advice in magazines like Gourmet, Conde Nast Travel, Food & Wine and many others.
At the World Food Media Awards in Australia, MacLean was named the World's Best Drink Writer. In her award-winning book, Red, White and Drunk All Over: A Wine-Soaked Journey from Grape to Glass, MacLean chronicles her last three years sipping, spitting and slogging her way through the international wine world.
For more information, visit www.nataliemaclean.com.
Q: Reds with beef. Whites with fish? Does that still hold up today?
A: Yes and no. Yes, because the old guidelines still apply to the extremes. That is, I wouldn't pair a delicate white fish with a heavy red wine. The wine would overwhelm the fish. However, white wines no longer mean light only, and can therefore be matched with red meats. Conversely, a silky delicate pinot noir goes swimmingly with salmon.
Q: Ever taste a wine that was so bad you spit it out?
A: You must be referring to my cousin's homemade wine that was served at their wedding: Tony and Tanya's True Love Forever Chablis. We all hoped that the marriage would mature more gracefully than the wine.
Q: You have $15 in your pocket and have to bring a bottle of American wine to a party. Give us a few choices.
A: 2005 Markham Wines Glass Mountain Chardonnay Napa Valley. A good balance in this chardonnay with green apples and oak. 2006 Ironstone Vineyards Obsession Symphony Sierra Foothills, Calif. I love this wine with its floral notes. Columbia Crest "Two Vines" Shiraz 2002. A pleasant, balanced, medium- to full-bodied red with notes of plums and dark berries. (You can find more wine picks by visiting www.nataliemaclean.com/wine_picks.)
Q: Most wine you ever consumed in one day?
A: Two bottles. I couldn't help it as the dinner party was six hours long and the wines were spectacular!
Herb Grilled Chicken With Orange Balsamic Sauce
6-8 boneless skinless chicken breasts
1 teaspoon herb blend of rosemary, thyme and parsley
2 tablespoons olive oil
Orange Balsamic Sauce
Toss chicken with olive oil and herbs. Allow to chill for 30 minutes. Then cook in pan, roast, or grill to doneness. Pour sauce over chicken and toss. Goes nicely with wild rice.
Courtesy Tracey Black of Epicuria in Ottawa, Canada
Orange Balsamic Sauce
1 1/4 cups balsamic vinegar
1/2 cup orange juice
Combine ingredients and reduce by half in a saucepan over low heat.
Recommend wines with this dish: 2006 Dr. Loosen DR. L Riesling Q.B.A., Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, Germany: A lovely, light-bodied sipper has a bit of sweetness that makes it delicious. 2005 St. Hallett Faith Shiraz Barossa, Australia: Delightful, juicy and full-bodied red with ripe aromas of plums and blackberries.
The Daily Dispatch
March 14, 2009
By Andrew Stone
I’m not much of a wine connoisseur I’m afraid. Never have been.
It’s simply that I haven’t found a wine that I enjoy the taste of, so when it comes to alcoholic drinks I tend to stick to beer.
I enjoy most beer brands on the market today and am not overly fussy about which one I drink, but if given the choice I like to keep it real (and not drink pink drinks!).
Anyway, my point is that when it comes to wine I couldn’t tell the difference between a Chardonnay and a Chihuahua.
I don’t have a clue which wines go with chicken or which wines taste better with beef. In fact, the only thing I do know is that I hazily recall having had some really good times at a few cheese and wine functions over the years (well, because I don’t like it doesn’t mean I won’t drink it!)
So if you’re anything like me, don’t worry, because help is at hand.
While browsing the Internet recently I came across the following site: www.nataliemaclean.com/ matcher.
No its not a dating portal, but it is the site wine idiots like me have been waiting for. It will answer all your questions, like which wine tastes best with pork chops in a maple glaze? Does rosemary- marinated grilled halibut invite red or white wine? And are there also great food pairings for beer, spirits, cocktails, coffee and tea?
The site also offers a Drinks Matcher widget, a portable version of the site’s existing food-and-wine pairing tool, which you can download to your computer desktop, web site, blog or social media page like Facebook, MySpace or iGoogle.
You can use the matcher to search for drinks to pair with meat, pasta, seafood, vegetarian dishes, pizza, take-out, sauces, herbs, cheese or dessert.
Best of all you can even find dishes to go with cocktails, liqueurs, beer, spirits, cider, coffee, tea – and yes, even water.
It’s really simple to use. I clicked on the “Wine & Food Pairing” link, selected “Beer Lager” as my choice of drink and up popped a number of dishes suitable to have with beer. Suggestions included chicken with curry spices, Mexican dishes, beef stroganov, pizza and fish and chips to name a few.
For still water some of the suggestions were: almond-based desserts, sushi, caviar and seafood.
According to Natalie MacLean, the woman who started the site, during the eight years she spent testing the combinations for her Drinks Matcher, she found two extremes when it came to food and wine pairing. “Some people say that it’s complete nonsense, while others insist that there’s only one perfect match for every wine,” she said. “Neither approach helps wine lovers.”
Natalie believes people want guidance, even though the pairings are subjective.
“Of the thousands of combinations I tried, some were delicious, others were a disaster. I share the ones that worked in the Drinks Matcher.”
The Daily News
September 23, 2007
By Dean Lisk
The 27th Atlantic Film Festival may have ended yesterday, but festival director Lia Rinaldo is already thinking ahead to next year's event."We had an incredible opening weekend with all the Atlantic galas, standing ovations, packed houses," said Rinaldo, noting the strong contingent of locally made films this year - Shake Hands With the Devil, Just Buried, and Poor Boy's Game.
Rinaldo has been with the festival for 17 years, and has seen it grow from a plain old festival to five annual events and 15 full-time staff. "There used to be days where the festival was over and there were two of us left in the office, and that doesn't happen anymore, which is great."
So, what will Rinaldo be up to now that the curtain has closed and the lights have dimmed? Here's a look at how she plans to relax:
Before the festival started, Rinaldo - a wine lover - bought a copy of Red, White, and Drunk All Over, by Natalie MacLean. "I've been coveting it, saving it, as my after-the-festival read," she said. "It's about a woman who became a sommelier and is from Nova Scotia. It won a ton of awards last year."
MOVIES: She watched more than a 1,000 films - shorts, docs and features - getting ready for the festival, so in the weeks before the 10-day event she takes a breather from the celluloid. It's a different story now that it's over.
"One of things I am looking forward to is Across the Universe, the Julie Taymor musical that is set to the Beatles in the '60s. It looks like it is lush, funny, and all sorts of things."
TV:Prison Break, Heroes, and Californication. "It took beyond a couple episodes for me to get into it, but it is really quite good," she said about her last pick.
MUSIC: Rinaldo said everyone in the festival office is into music, so a lot of different bands get thrown around.
Going through her IPod, she's listening to the Arctic Monkeys, Cold War Kids, and other indie Brits. Joel Plaskett's new album has gotten play at her place, and she is going to see The Police play in Toronto later this year.
AROUND TOWN: Rogi Orazio is a popular spot with Rinaldo.
"My baby brother is the head chef, I love it up there." She tries not to bother her brother, Tony, when she goes there, but sometimes sisterly pride takes over - especially when she brings friends.
The Daily Sound
December 20, 2008
By Tim Duggan
It’s getting perilously close to Christmas and some of us have not finished shopping for the important people in our lives. I know that it can be a daunting task to buy a wine gift for somebody who is really, really into wine, especially if you are not particularly wine knowledgeable yourself. It doesn’t need to be exasperating or expensive to get a great gift for the wine geeks in your life, but here are a few important things to keep in mind:
Do – Decide how much you want to spend before you start looking for a wine-related gift. There is good wine at every price point, but not much under $10.
Don’t – Buy them a wine at a store that sells groceries, including big box stores. It is the wine equivalent of a fruitcake. Most wine aficionados have already combed through every nook and cranny of every such wine department and found the few gems available there. They will know where you bought it and how much you paid for it and will politely drink it if it is passably good or cook with it if it isn’t.
Do – Buy them a wine from a local wine merchant. Ask them for advice. They are experts and speak the same language as the wine geeks in your life. They will give you access to interesting small production wines from all over the world and will explain to you what is so special about them. If you don’t want to get into a long interaction with a wine merchant, and though it may seem impersonal, almost every wine-interested person will love a gift certificate from a specialty wine store.
Don’t – Buy them a wine that is made from anything except grapes. I’m not saying that there aren’t any really good and interesting wines being made from something other than grapes, I’m just saying that the chance of finding them without lots of research or trial and error is pretty slim.
Do – Buy them wine from somewhere you have personally been. Part of what makes wine fun for people is the specificity of ‘place’ implied in each bottle. If you are on vacation in an exotic locale, pick up a few bottles of a local wine and bring them back as gifts.
Don’t – Buy them a wine gadget that seems useful. Wine lovers already own the most useful gadgets around and have grown accustomed to using them. The next new wine opener, decanter, aerator, etc. is not something they want or need. And if there ever is some new technology to the world of wine that represents a true advancement, then most wine geeks will have already acquired it long before anyone else knew it existed.
Do – Buy them a wine gadget that is cute, funny, or frivolous. It will be appreciated. Unless they are a person that doesn’t like things that are cute, funny, or frivolous.
Don’t – Buy them a wine journal. If they feel compelled to write about the wines they drink, they will have already started to do it on their own.
Do – Buy them a book about wine. Some great ones I can personally recommend are Bacchus & Me and A Hedonist in the Cellar by Jay McInerny, Red, White, and Drunk all Over: A Wine-Soaked Journey from Grape to Glass by Natalie MacLean, and 101 Wines: Guaranteed to Inspire, Delight, and Bring Thunder to Your World by Gary Vaynerchuk.
And if all else fails then buy them something that isn’t wine related. Their passion doesn’t have to be your burden. Trust me, they’ll find plenty of wine without you.
The Florida Ledger
November 15, 2007
By Aurora Rodriguez
Once the invitations have been extended for this year's Thanksgiving feast and the relatives have excitedly called to plan their arrival, that's when a lot of hosts might find themselves undergoing sudden "preparation panic."
Take your pick of white, crisp chardonnays and look for one from a lesser-known winery.
As the traditional turkey is thawed, they might wonder how they're ever going to top last year's delectable secret recipe for Grandma's sangria, which everyone enthused about while mingling with guests waiting to be fed.
The answer to this year's creative culinary drink-pairing struggle lies inside a chilled or aged wine bottle, said Michelle Carlton, owner of the wine store Cork & Olive in Lakeside Village in Lakeland.
"Wine goes well with anything," said Carlton. "Thanksgiving is time for a feast, and wine changes the taste of food, just like food changes the taste of wine."
Carlton said those looking for a classy wine with which to toast while cutting up the roasted turkey should stick to getting a white, crisp wine, such as a Sauvignon Blanc or a fruity and tangy Chardonnay.
"The traditional roasted turkey goes great with a white wine," she said. "The white meat pairs up well with a light-colored wine."
Carlton said an array of impressive white wines are available from $12 to $17 and from unique wineries in places such as Chile and Australia.
One favorite found at the store is the Reserve Chardonnay Santa Alicia from Chile, which has buttery and fruity tastes as well as nuances of pineapples, mangos and bananas.
Though the pick is perfect to pair with turkey and all the delicious traditional accompaniments, such as pumpkin pie and anything cranberry, Carlton added it's always up to the buyer to select which wine suits their feast.
"I recommend people to come here and sample a variety of wines," she said. "It's always good to get help from knowledgeable people when it comes to choosing the perfect wine."
Natalie MacLean, author of "Red, White and Drunk All Over: A Wine-Soaked Journey from Grape to Glass" and creator of the Web site www.NatalieMacLean.com, said the Thanksgiving feast is the perfect time try to add some sophistication by pairing different wines right next to recipes meant to give your yearly meal an extra kick.
Her free online-matching tool, found at www.NatalieMacLean.com/matcher, even has a "Turkey Holiday Dinner" section dedicated to finding the perfect food and wine mix.
"When wine and food get together, the combination is more pleasurable," said MacLean. "Wine and food pairings are not about getting nervous and anxious, it's about drinking what you like."
MacLean said when the foods presented in a holiday feast are mixed with wine, the results are newfound flavors never imagined by the casual eater and drinker.
"I always tell people to go back to the classic pairing of milk and cookies," she said. "Milk clears away the cookie taste and refreshes. With turkey, a juicy white and berry wine, or even a merlot, can have the same type of pleasurable effect."
MacLean added that since white turkey meat is dry in texture it's best to pick a wine to make it taste more juicy.
"Good options are crisp whites, like Riesling and Pinot Grigio," she said.
MacLean said another perfect way to start off Thanksgiving is to open up a bottle of champagne, such as the affordable, yet delectably fizzy, black-bottled Freixenet Cordon Negro Brut champagne from Spain.
"Sparkling wine is a great aperitif to sip while you wait for the turkey to finish cooking," she said.
MacLean suggests going to a local liquor store or wine shop to discuss options with a wine expert and to forget about labels and let yourself go by taste and intuition when choosing the right bottle for your guests to enjoy.
"Wine is the taste of the harvest," she said. "Thanksgiving is the perfect holiday for it. There's no better tradition than wine on Thanksgiving so you can enjoy the fruits of the harvest in your glass and on your plate."
Today we're offering some Thanksgiving recipes with suggested wine pairings to help you make this year's event a delicious success. Don't be afraid to go out there and try your own selection of wine to add a personal spin to this year's pairings.
The Fresno Bee
May 9, 2007
By Joan Obra
Gena Nonini pops open her favorite French oak barrel and siphons off a little brandy. She cuts it with a little water, gives a swirl and then offers a drink.
It's smooth on the palate, with a pleasing hint of caramel, or maple, as Nonini likes to say.
She talks of the flavor imparted by barrels with light, medium and heavy toasts. She shows her copper still, which lends a better taste to brandy than a still made of stainless steel, she says.
All common talk for a brandy maker, but Nonini isn't typical at all. This Fresno-area farmer is the first in the country to produce distilled spirits from her own certified biodynamic grapes.
"Biodynamic" refers to Nonini's style of farming. Think of it as organic plus: In addition to refusing to use most chemicals, biodynamic farmers take into account astral influences.
"You start looking at planetary influences and the cosmic world," Nonini says. "It's even more fluid and alive than organics."
Biodynamic farming involves unconventional methods, such as burying manure in cow's horns and applying the resulting compost to the fields at certain times of the year.
Nonini also creates "festival sprays" timed to important Christian dates. She'll mix up ingredients such as frankincense and stinging nettle, then spray the mixtures on plants during the Epiphany, the Ascension, Michaelmas and other Christian festivals.
All the treatments are meant to improve the quality of her grapes and other crops.
These practices may cause skeptical folks to raise eyebrows, but the superiority of Nonini's grapes speaks for itself -- it's what caused Quady Winery to make an amontillado sherry-style wine from her Palomino grapes, says Quady winemaker Michael Blaylock. That sherry, called Palomino Fino, was released last week. Nonini expects to sell her brandy later this year.
The moves into biodynamic spirits and wine make Quady and Nonini part of a small but growing list of viticulturists and vinters buying into these farming practices.
According to the Demeter Association, the international organization that certifies biodynamic products, almost 40 wineries and vineyards are certified. That's almost a fourfold increase over 2004.
Nonini operates in an even smaller niche. Demeter records show that only one other distilled spirits company has applied for biodynamic certification.
In addition, there are an unknown number of uncertified companies -- such as Quady -- that use biodynamic ingredients.
The practice may be in its infancy in the United States, but it's far better known in Europe.
In the 1920s, Austrian scientist and philosopher Rudolf Steiner pioneered biodynamic techniques to boost crop fertility and address pest and disease issues. Since then, various European wineries have tried biodynamics. In the esteemed wine region of Burgundy, France, for example, wine writer Natalie MacLean found that the famed Domaine de la Romanée-Conti had experimented with biodynamic techniques. And Domaine Leroy and Domaine Leflaive have embraced biodynamics wholeheartedly, MacLean writes in "Red, White and Drunk All Over: A Wine-Soaked Journey from Grape to Glass."
"It just makes good sense," Anne-Claude Leflaive of Domaine Leflaive says of biodynamics in "Red, White and Drunk All Over."
"It's not a matter of marketing -- we don't even put 'biodynamic' on the label."
In the United States, the small number of farmers and wineries tackling biodynamics means that the average customer is unlikely to recognize biodynamic wines -- no matter what's on the label.
No one has asked about biodynamic wines at local shops such as The Grape Tray at Fresno Street and Shaw Avenue or Eau de Vie at Champlain Drive and Perrin Avenue, the owners say.
Some may go as far as to ask for organic wines, but only "people buying [wines] less than $20 look for things like that," says Stan Kato of The Grape Tray.
Eau de Vie co-owner Susie Davis says she hasn't researched biodynamic wines enough to have an opinion of them.
That may change as more producers adopt biodynamic practices.
Also, as larger companies enter the organic industry, consumers looking for relationships with smaller farmers may seek out biodynamic products.
With their many crops and smaller yields, biodynamic farms aren't well-suited for large-scale production. Ideally, all of the materials needed to maintain a biodynamic operation would come from the farm itself.
"There really cannot be the exponential growth that has been seen in the organic food marketplace," Demeter Association director Jim Fullmer writes in an e-mail.
"Even out of certified organic status, it can take a farm two additional years to achieve Demeter certification. It takes time to develop these systems."
Nonini shows how much a biodynamic farmer must consider. Several weeks ago, for example, she realized the positions of the moon, the Earth and the constellation Pisces created strong water forces. A couple of days later, it rained.
Conventional farmers typically would wait until after the rain to respond, she says. But Nonini started applying treatments before and after the rain.
Nonini also says she uses more spray treatments than required by the Demeter Association.
"We do more than what's required, and then some," Nonini says. "My only job is to get the life force of the universe into food."
For its part, Quady explored turning into a biodynamic or organic winery. In the end, the winery didn't move in either of those directions, but it still was eager to use Nonini's grapes. It has taken five years to transform them into wine.
Quady's Palomino Fino has some characteristics of traditional amontillado sherry.
Its color is a rich, golden amber. The flavor has "a very pronounced hazelnut character to it," Blaylock says. "It goes really well with a seafood bisque."
Amontillado sherry typically is paired with the small Spanish dishes called tapas, he adds.
Other foods that pair well with it are manchego and dry Jack cheeses, as well as salted almonds, Quady's assistant wine maker Darin Peterson says.
Palomino Fino sells for $30 a bottle. Locally, the winery's tasting room in Madera is the best place to buy it; distribution is extremely limited.
Blaylock, though, expects demand for it to be high.
He credits the sherry's quality not just to winemaking techniques, but also to Nonini's grapes.
Organic and biodynamic farmers "are passionate," Blaylock says. "Almost by nature, they're going to make a great product."
The Grapes of Cash
By Natalie MacLean
Cisco Systems just bought your little start-up for $350 million. Careful though -- money without class lands you in a Rockcliffe glass house. If you have instant wealth, you need instant culture. Unfortunately, engineering school didn’t offer electives in Expressionist painting or Russian literature. A liberal education is useful only after you’ve made the big bucks – sadly, it doesn’t get you there.
So settle for something more accessible, something conspicuous you can buy. You’ve already commissioned the yacht in Holland, Donatella Versace is coming to measure Thursday, and the Z8 is on order. What you’re missing is something Old School, something rooted in tradition, yet won’t bore the hell out of you or your friends. Parsing, parsing…. ah, there it is: that 1982 Château Mouton Rothschild worth more than most people’s monthly mortgage payment.
“It’s about ego: who can pay $3,000 for a bottle without blinking,” says Andrew Waitman, a high tech venture capitalist.
You don’t need to be a sommelier to know that money and fine wine make a perfect pairing. What’s new is who can afford it: the pot of gold in this city is at the end of a fibre-optic rainbow. In the last three years, the sale or IPO of Extreme Packet Devices, Skystone, Cambrian Systems, TimeStep, Tundra Semiconductor, Abatis, Newbridge Networks and FastLane have minted more than one hundred millionaires. A former software CEO suggests that, adjusting for other factors such as education, age and geography, the determining variable for buying fine wine is income. That’s just the type of regression analysis that you’d expect from a top techie to even the most casual question.
“It’s boom times for those in high tech,” says Brett Howard, assistant vice president at Alcatel. We now have an interest in things we didn’t have access to before. I used to treat myself to an expensive bottle a couple times a year, but now I’ll buy one every week or so.”
Dr. Adam Chowaniec, CEO of Tundra Semiconductor, started buying wines at Ottawa charity auctions after his company went public last year: “It’s another way to experience wine that I hadn’t been able to do previously,” he says.
Indeed, it requires a Microsoft budget to drink fine wine today. The “cult cabs” of California such as Grace Family, Screaming Eagle, Colgin and David Bruce retail for up to $1,000 per bottle, just three years after release. Despite average vintages, Bordeaux continues twenty percent price hikes each year. The “price-to-enjoyment” ratios for the wines are as whacked out as the price-to-earnings multiples for the tech stocks. And irrational exuberance spurs the dot.com crowd to buy these wines just as it prods the rest of us to buy their stocks. The eternal search is for what’s hot in both wine and high tech: the new, new thing.
But this trend isn’t new. During the ’80s, when most techies were still in diapers assembling their model computers, the Wall Street boys were drinking the best labels. Then the Japanese had their run, mixing first-growth Bordeaux with Coke or Sprite (depending on their preference for red or white).
Wine is also the sunny second career for many who’ve made it in other fields. Take Francis Ford Coppola who produced the “Godfather” triology and “Apocalypse Now”. Today, the Hollywood heavyweight also produces some of the finest cabernets and merlots in Napa Valley.
Then there’s the Australian golfer Greg Norman who probably knows more about driving ranges than yeast strains. Still, that didn’t deter him from teaming up with leading wine producer Mildara Blass to launch Greg Norman Estates. Of course Norman is one of the few lucky enough to be able to afford to make wine. (The way to make a $1 million selling wine is to start with $10 million.)
Australia also beckoned Kent Plumley. He had been legal counsel to and an investor in Kanata high tech clients for more than 25 years when he visited the country in the early 1990s. He was so taken with its scenic splendor, he decided to buy a winery there at AUS$4,000 per acre. Next year, his winery will produce 25,000 cases.
“Before going to Australia, I had toured up and down the coast of California searching for vineyards, but the prices, driven largely by high tech investors, were US $75,000 per acre,” Plumley says. “If you work in Silicon Valley, it’s fashionable to go to your vineyard on the weekend. The traffic is unbelievable – BMWs and Saabs sitting bumper to bumper on the main stretch.”
Alcatel’s Howard has observed the same phenomenon in Canada. “When you have the funds, you buy the lifestyle,” he says. “It’s not simply a love of wine -- owning a vineyard fits the image many have of someone who is successful.”
But Plumley believes it’s more than just a matter of wealth. He thinks there’s a link between working in a sedentary, high-risk, high-stress environment, and wanting to relax with something that’s hands-on, sensual, slow and traditional. After all those nights debugging glitches until 2 am, it’s time to get a life. “Just strolling in your vineyard, or sitting on the verandah with a glass of wine, is a welcome change from the high tech chaos,” he says.
While not everyone in high tech can afford to buy a vineyard yet, many are exposed to wine through their business travel and entertaining. Often when they visit a foreign client, they tack on an extra day or two to visit vineyards in the region -- either on their own or with customers.
“We spend so much time trying to understand our customers, both their technology and they, themselves, as people,” Chowaniec explains. “Sometimes, if we’ve just wrapped up meetings in California, it’s easy to take them to Napa. It’s more social to share wine than to knock back one scotch after another.”
Wine is also an intellectual pursuit, and appreciating it ties directly to parts of the brain responsible for memory and emotion. “There’s something about the complexity of wine, and its many correlations among blends, vintages and regions that’s appealing to those who are analytically minded,” Howard says. Yet, you don’t have to grind through mind-numbing textbooks and night courses to grasp the subject -- you can enjoy it instantly, at least at the simpler sensual level.
However, despite their burgeoning oenophile tendencies, few in high tech participate in the city’s wine clubs compared to those in government and academia, for instance. Frequent business travel means they often can’t commit to scheduled events. They also tend to prefer informal wine tasting at home or in a restaurant with friends rather than at a wine club. At Mitel, for example, an ad hoc group of about twenty-five colleagues gathers after work once a month to chat about wine. The ideas flow more freely around a bottle of wine, says Alain Chamsi, a director at Mitel. In high tech, the folks you work with are often the folks you play with.
The other difference between high tech wine lovers and those from other fields, is that few have large cellars, preferring to maintain a low drag coefficient. (Read: less junk to port when you need to move to Mountainview for your new job.) And tech’s twitch culture doesn’t exactly lend itself to waiting twenty years for a Bordeaux to mature --which may be why most of those interviewed prefer bold, fruit-forward, ready-to-drink New World wines.
Neither are many interested in buying wine as an investment, and instead, put their money instead into their own companies and other tech stocks. In fact, many look down on investing in wine as an activity for “institutional guys” such as bankers, who, I was told, have the time to analyze something outside their own field.
Many wine lovers believe that the high tech crowd will spur better wine selection in Ottawa, both in restaurants and at retail. However, they get frustrated when they discover a great wine while traveling, and then are not able to buy it locally.
That’s improving though. Last May, the LCBO opened its largest Vintages store, the flagship for its fine wines, on Rideau Street. In the past year, wine bars have opened in the Byward Market, and several regional restaurants now offer seriously good wine lists.
“Restaurant wine lists are starting to improve,” Howard says. “A few places now offer great wines, not just the safe, budget brands. The staff is also getting more knowledgeable about wine and food matching.”
Baroness Philippine de Rothschild observed: “Wine making is quite a simple business. Only the first 200 years are difficult.” Their timelines may be shorter, but the high tech crowd couldn’t agree more about starting a business. And while there is no grand theory linking them with wine, the world’s most civilized drink provides a rosé-coloured lens through which to view their nanosecond world.
The Guardian
July 31, 2009
By Richard Ehrlich
Excerpted from The Guardian
Need to find a wine to match the meal you're about to eat? When you're at home, it's easy. Check out what's in the fridge, or on the rack next to the bread bin. If there is more than one bottle in either place, use your common sense. If you only have the one bottle, your choice becomes simple.
OK, some partnerships are universally acknowledged as perfect. Sauternes and Roquefort cheese is the one that always springs to my mind; for others it is oysters and either Muscadet or Chablis. These are the exceptions. Most food and wine matching resources, in print or online, often present a variety of recommendations for a single dish. Sometimes they'll include both red and white.
The American sociologist Barry Schwartz has written about how an excess of consumer choice can breed anxiety and uncertainty rather than fulfilment. The world's-your-oyster approach to food and wine pairing strikes me as a good example of this problem.
This makes me wonder whether they will add anything substantial to the well established food and wine matching resources provided by Fiona Beckett, Berry Bros. & Rudd and Natalie MacLean, and in numerous books by (among others) Hugh Johnson, Oz Clarke, and Jancis Robinson.
The Hamilton Spectator
December 26, 2007
By Judy Creighton
The Hamilton Spectator published the same story as the Winnipeg Free Press.
The Intelligencer
December 2007
By Shari Darling
Create a gift basket for the wino who loves to sit by the fireplace and read. Fellow wine writer and author, Natalie MacLean, has written a fun and educational book about wine called Red, White and Drunk All Over, under $20. It’s the first wine book to entertain and educate readers about wine and famous wine regions.
It is referred to as a ‘wine soaked journey from grape to glass.’ Also, go to Natalie’s website (www.nataliemaclean.com) and sign your friend up for her free newsletter – Nat Decants. Print off a copy of the newsletter from her site and include it into the gift basket.
The Intelligencer (2)
April 12, 2008
By Judy Creighton
The Intelligencer published the same story as the London Free Press.
The Irish Times
June 17, 2007
By Tom Doorley
I sometimes wonder if normal human beings spend much time agonizing over matching wine with food. Surely most of us tend to open whatever is to hand and just hope for the best.
But some combinations work particularly well. Sauvignon Blanc and goat’s cheese, for example. Or Gewurztraminer and mature Gouda. Spaghetti Bolognese always seems to partner Barbera d’Asti very effectively.
If you’re keen to get the combination right, or at least to get some interesting suggestions, you can try logging on to www.nataliemaclean.com, which has thousands of carefully researched food-and-wine matches.
The Kitchener Record
April 10, 2008
By Judy Creighton
The Kitchener Record published the same story as the London Free Press.
The London Free Press
April 9, 2008
By Judy Creighton
When it comes to the task of pairing vegetables with wine, an award-winning sommelier and wine writer is up to the challenge.
"A lot of us are eating a lot more than meat these days, and even if you haven't gone completely vegetarian, the move towards more healthy eating means there is a lot more greenery on our plates," says Natalie MacLean.
But she does agree the match between the plate and the glass becomes more challenging when it comes to seeking veggie-friendly wines.
Full-bodied red wines should be avoided because they contain tannins, she explains. These are the natural substance from the stems, skins and seeds of grapes that give wine a furry feeling on the tongue like over-steeped tea or walnuts.
"This natural compound in wine is really harsh with green vegetables," she explains. "Unlike a protein-packed juicy steak, vegetables have no protein. Tannin and protein work together and that is why a Cabernet Sauvignon or Shiraz goes well with a juicy steak or lamb."
MacLean says that, in general, white wines do much better than reds with vegetables.
However, she cautions that in this case high-alcohol white should be shunned because its fruit clashes with the zesty flavors of the vegetables.
Her choices to accompany vegetables include crisp whites with good acidity, such as bone-dry or off-dry German Riesling or a Vino Verde from Portugal.
"The ultimate veggie wine for me is a chilled New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc," says MacLean. "It's like a salad in a glass."
Salads have their own wine needs, she says. A creamy salad dressing will soften the perception of bitterness in the wine.
"With mayonnaise you can drink a rounder, richer white wine like Chardonnay because it is nice and buttery."
For salads of mixed field greens, she opts for wines with a floral character.
"My favorite salad wine is lime-fresh Australian Riesling or a dry German Riesling."
When partnering wines with salad ingredients, such as cheese, nuts, herbs, bacon bits and mushrooms, MacLean suggests light red wines such as Pinot Noir, Chinon or Bardolino.
If serving wine with potatoes, squash, corn or sweet potatoes, MacLean recommends an oaky buttery Chardonnay, because these are starchy vegetables with no acidity.
As we head into barbecue season, grilled vegetables with their deeper flavors and smoky nuances call for a fuller body on both reds and whites, "although you are still dealing with a tannin, no-protein issue," she says.
MacLean's book Red, White and Drunk All Over: A Wine-Soaked Journey from Grape to Glass was chosen the Best Wine Literature Book in the English language at the recent Gourmand World Cookbook Awards.
For more information on her chatty and informative online newsletter, visit www.nataliemaclean.com.
Your mom told you to eat your veggies and she was right. We all need five to 10 servings of greens a day, according to Canada's Food Guide to Healthy Eating, whether vegetarian or meat-eater. And those who give up meat don't necessarily give up the fruit of the vine.
Bet your mom didn't tell you which wines go best with a leafy salad, or other vegetarian dishes, though, did she?
Sommelier and wine writer Natalie MacLean of Ottawa comes to the rescue with her suggestions on pairing her favourite drink with vegetables. Here, a nice light white wine is the perfect dinner companion for Asparagus Pizza with Tomato.
Asparagus Pizza with Tomatoes
Makes four servings
1 store-bought thin pizza crust
1 teaspoon (5 mL) olive oil
1 tomato, thinly sliced
1/2 teaspoon (2 mL) dried Italian seasoning or basil
1/4 cup (50 mL) very thin strips red onion
1/2 lb (250 g) barely cooked asparagus, cut into 3-inch (7.5-cm) pieces
1/2 130-g pkg creamy goat cheese, crumbled
2 tablespoons (30 mL) coarsely grated Parmesan
3 or 4 fresh basil leaves, shredded
Place oven rack on lowest shelf. Preheat oven to 400øF (200øC).
Place crust on pizza pan or baking sheet. Brush crust with oil. Arrange tomato slices on top, followed by Italian seasoning, onion and then asparagus. Sprinkle with goat and Parmesan cheeses.
Bake in oven following package directions until pizza is hot, six to 10 minutes. Sprinkle with basil leaves.
Wine match: Chablis, unoaked Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, Beaujolais or Gamay.
Recipe source: California Asparagus Commission.
Mixed Asian-Style Vegetables
Makes eight servings
1 tablespoon (15 mL) reduced-sodium soy sauce
1 tablespoon (15 mL) oyster sauce
2 tablespoons (30 mL) fresh-squeezed lime juice
1 tablespoon (15 mL) sugar
2 tablespoons (30 mL) vegetable oil
4 cloves garlic, minced
2 serrano chilies or jalapeno chilies, seeded and thinly sliced diagonally
3 scallions, thinly sliced
1 red bell pepper, seeded and cut into 1/4-inch (5-mm) pieces
1/4 lb (125 g) snow peas
1 Japanese eggplant, cut into 1/4-inch (5-mm) cubes
1/4 lb (125 g) mushrooms, stems removed and caps cut in wedges
1 tablespoon (15 mL) finely chopped peeled fresh ginger
3 small heads baby bok choy, cored and thinly sliced
1/2 cup (125 mL) loosely packed basil leaves, cut into thin shreds
In a small bowl, stir together soy sauce, oyster sauce, lime juice and sugar. Set aside.
In a large non-stick skillet or wok over medium-high heat, heat oil. Add garlic and chilies. Stir-fry for 30 seconds. Add scallions, bell pepper, snow peas, eggplant, mushrooms and ginger. Stir-fry for two minutes. Add bok choy. Stir-fry until wilted, about one minute. Add soy sauce mixture. Stir-fry until vegetables are crisp-tender, about one minute. Stir in basil and serve at once.
Wine match: Off-dry Canadian or German Riesling, Gewurztraminer, New World Pinot Noir.
Recipe source: Vegetables For Vitality (Reader's Digest).
Sweet Potato Salad
Makes four servings
1 lb (500 g) sweet potatoes, peeled, quartered lengthwise and cut crosswise into 1/2-inch (1-cm) thick slices
3 tablespoons (45 mL) olive oil
1 tablespoon (15 mL) fresh-squeezed lemon juice (approx)
1 tablespoon (15 mL) orange juice
1 teaspoon (5 mL) honey
1/4 teaspoon (1 mL) salt
1/4 teaspoon (1 mL) black pepper
1 medium bunch arugula, torn into pieces
1 navel orange, peeled and cut into sections
1/2 small red onion, thinly sliced crosswise
3 tablespoons (45 mL) raisins
Preheat oven to 400øF (200øC). Line a large baking pan with foil and lightly coat with cooking spray.
Toss sweet potatoes on pan with one tablespoon (15 mL) of the oil. Spread in an even layer. Roast potatoes until tender and lightly browned, about 30 minutes.
In a small bowl, whisk together remaining two tablespoons (30 mL) olive oil, lemon juice, orange juice, honey, salt and pepper. Taste dressing and add another one tablespoon (15 mL) lemon juice, if desired.
In a large bowl, toss together warm potatoes and dressing. Add arugula, orange sections, onion and raisins. Toss to mix.
Wine match: Off-dry Riesling or Chenin Blanc.
Recipe source: Vegetables For Vitality (Reader's Digest Canada).
Serving wines with vegetables
Here are some tips on pairing vegetables with wine:
Avoid wines such as Cabernet Sauvignon or Shiraz as they can overpower vegetables and their tannins will clash as well.
Choose instead soft, smooth-textured fruity ones like Pinot Noir, Gamay and Sangiovese.
Avoid high-alcohol whites; their fruit is in contrast with the zesty flavours of vegetables.
Wines with a floral character do well with simple field greens.
A richer rounder white goes well with salads tossed with a creamy salad dressing.
Source: www.nataliemaclean.com.
The National Post
November 22, 2007
What do high-profile Canadians want under the tree this Christmas?
By Flannery Dean
The holidays are fun because they allow you to consider what you really want - and dare to hope you might get it. But what do you do when you simply don't know what you want? Consider seeking some inspiration in the wish lists of these top Canadians.
What do you get for the man who designs everything? Well, if he can't have "global peace" for the holidays, industrial designer Karim Rashid will settle for a revolutionary advance in personalized technology.
"I would be really happy with a microchip implanted in my body what would open up all my doors (approved by FDA) since I constantly lose my keys." Failing that, a new tattoo.
Canada's most famous handyman, Mike Holmes, would love a few days vacation in Hawaii for the holidays.
Vancouver's gossip maven Elaine Lui - Lainey from www.laineygossip.com and CTV's eTalk - is a woman who knows what she wants. Her wish list includes a round of golf at the Wynn in Vegas, the perfect black fedora, the complete Beverly Hills 90210 series on DVD and the Andrea Brueckner Luxembourg Shopper in black crackle patent ("she makes the best bags and she's Canadian!").
In a concession to practicality, she wouldn't mind a new dryer. "Ours is like 10 years old and fades my clothes!"
Flare's jet-setting editor-in-chief Lisa Tant is taking a cue from the How-Stella-Got-Her-Groove-Back School of wish fulfillment.
"My ultimate Christmas treat would be a spa week away in the tropics with an easy read, a handsome man, and no BlackBerry."
Giller Prize-winning author Vincent Lam (Bloodletting and Miraculous Cures) may need to keep his Christmas tree in the garage this year to accommodate the BMW 330xd Wagon he has his eye on.
"I'd like a BMW because they last a long time, and I keep my stuff for decades - and who am I kidding, they're cool. I've mentioned a diesel model, because they get fantastic fuel mileage - as good as hybrids - and have incredibly low emissions."
Environmentally conscious author Adria Vasil (Ecoholic) says if she can't get the planet's climate change woes settled this year, she'd love "a funky purse by Jack and Marjorie made of reconstructed vintage fabrics and something styly made of organic cotton, bamboo or hemp by another sustainable, sweatshop-free Canadian designer like Thieves."
Ottawa-based oenophile Natalie MacLean, author of Red, White and Drunk All Over: A Wine-Soaked Journey from Grape to Glass is dreaming of a "bubbly Christmas." And she's counting on "Santa or Bacchus" to make it Bollinger Champagne.
"I'd drink it with a large bowl of potato chips while I watch the seventh rerun of Miracle on 34th Street."
Film critic Richard Crouse (The 100 Best Movies You've Never Seen) is banking on world peace as more likely for 2009 - January 20, 2009 to be precise. (Says Crouse: "Look it up.") For 2007, he sets his sights even higher.
"As a film critic I'd love someone, anyone, in Hollywood to get an original idea. No more sequels! No more movies based on bad baby boomer television shows! Get a new idea and then give me an exciting, original movie."
Musician, author, ambassador of hockey, Dave Bidini, is also on the hunt for an original.
"I want a Bernie Parent goalie mask painted by Andrew Rucklidge with a purple brain painted on the outside, please, God."
Singer-songwriter and member of the band Shaye, Newfoundland's Damnhait Doyle is also thinking outside of the artfully wrapped box this year.
"This year for Christmas, I want something different. I want a gift that will fill my soul, my heart and my mind, something that will keep on working, even when the batteries run out, and the wrapping paper is in the recycling bin. I want to open up my eyes on Christmas morning and say 'this is the best Christmas ever'."
So what's the miracle gift Damnhait?
"I want to find an envelope telling me that instead of buying each other gifts, my family and I bought groceries and children's presents for 10 families that need a little extra help during this financially stressful season, so this is what we are going to do."
Canada's most famous handyman, Mike Holmes, meanwhile, would like nothing better than a short reprieve from drywall and leaky pipes for the holidays.
"I'd love to have a few days vacation on a beach in Hawaii," he says.
The National Post (2)
October 18, 2008
By Amy Rosen
In 1967, Barry Saslove was watching television at his parents' house in Ottawa, saw the news about the Six Day War and then hopped on a plane to Israel.
Or, as he explains it as he uncorks a few bottles at his upper Galilee winery: "When I turned 19, the war had just begun. I went to volunteer and I stayed. And here I live and here I want to be."
Another thing he wanted to be was a vintner. After decades spent in what he describes as the "soul-sapping" computer industry, Mr. Saslove started holding wine-appreciation courses in the early 1990s. This led to the opening of a winery with a partner in 1994, which eventually led to the launch of his own winery in 1998, with outposts in the centre of the country at Kibbutz Eyal, and in the green and undulating Galilee.
When I visited his winery last October, Mr. Saslove had proudly raised a glass while saying, "This year, when the Canadian government opens for the new session of congress, they'll be toasting with my wine." He is referring to his Cabernet Sauvignon, luscious with dark fruit, oak and a sexy chocolate finish. His Meritage is a blend of merlot, cabernet and Syrah. "I want it to be very complex," he explained as he swished and swirled. "Every mouthful should be different."
Natalie MacLean, author of Red, White and Drunk All Over, says Israel is producing some outstanding wines these days. "Two of my favourites are both robust Cabernet Sauvignons, one made by Saslove Winery from upper Galilee and the other by Yarden Golan Heights Winery. I've rated both of these wines 90 out of 100 and they'll both age for a decade or more -- long enough to get you through many Rosh Hashanah meals." Meanwhile, Howard Wasserman, a partner at Toronto wine-importing company B & W Wines, says that Israel, after 2,000 years, is finally producing wines with "chutzpah." His company has recently put together a list of quality wines that match well with traditional Jewish foods.
Israel's Tulip Winery Cabernet worked perfectly with a recent Friday night brisket, Mr. Wasserman says, while things got off to a nice start with Vitkin Winery's Viognier -- excellent with the matzo ball soup.
There are now 170 wineries in Israel, with many more in the works. "There should be 200 any day," Mr. Saslove says. Compare that with just 24 Israeli wineries in the 1990s.
Saslove is a boutique winery, producing 70,000 bottles a year. The basalt soil and cool mountain air are an ideal environment for growing exceptional grapes, which are hand-selected, placed in special protective containers and then transferred via cooled trucks to the winery. Most of Saslove's grapes are organic. - The Saslove Cabernet Sauvignon Adom is $29.70, and available in the Vintages section at select LCBO stores or visit saslove.com.
The Niagara Falls Review
December 26, 2007
By Judy Creighton
The Niagara Fall Review published the same story as the Winnipeg Free Press.
The Oregonian
June 19, 2007
Web tool takes the worry out of pairing food and wine
We feel your pain. We're constantly reading about pairing food and wine, yet when we're ready to draw up the shopping list for our dinner party, all we can remember is "red with meat, white with fish."
That's why it's so handy to have Natalie MacLean's Web site, www.nataliemaclean.com. MacLean is an author and sommelier who has won four James Beard awards, among others. Click on Food & Wine at her site and you'll get an easy, interactive tool that recommends types of wine when you enter a food choice, or vice versa.
It also will give you specific bottle recommendations, as well as a healthy selection of fairly upscale recipes. While you're online, check out MacLean's podcasts, glossary, wine links and other useful features.
The Oregonian
October 6, 2009
By Katherine Cole
Excerpted from The Oregonian
Uncork these wine Web sites for fun, useful info
I recently received a press release extolling the new wine-matching function at Epicurious.com, the culinary Web portal for magazines such as Bon Appétit and Gourmet.
Intrigued, I checked out the site. Lo and behold, there they were: long lists of specific wine recommendations, powered by the new wine site snooth.com.
I found this function fascinating. And pretty much useless.
Click on one of the suggested recipes -- Grilled Fish Tostadas With Pineapple-Jícama Salsa, for example -- and you'll pull up wine suggestions such as: "Peter Brum Liebfraumilch 2005."
Which will cause the amateur oenophile to wonder, "What is liebfraumilch?" And a seasoned wine drinker to ask, "Why in the world would I want to drink a 2005 liebfraumilch with this dish?!"
Therein lies the rub: The site tells you which wines you should buy, how much they cost and -- if you click for more info -- where they come from.
But it fails to answer two key additional questions: What, exactly, is this wine and why should I drink it?
On that note, here are some of my favorite sites for answering all of my wine-related questions. They deliver all the information I'm looking for in an entertaining fashion. As far as I'm concerned, spending a few minutes at one of these URLs is the next-best thing to sipping a nice cool glass of Chablis.
Breaking news: Twitter, www.twitter.com, and Facebook, www.facebook.com
I suppose I should be shilling for wine-publication sites at this point, but instant-messaging services are so much more fun. Follow your fave wine writers, such as "JancisRobinson," for updates from the world of wine news; or the wineries you like to frequent to find out when they're harvesting or topping off barrels. You can also follow media-savvy wine merchants, such as "corkwineshop," or news-aggregator services such as "BottleBuzz," for the latest deals and dish.
Food matching: Nat Decants, www.nataliemaclean.com
Click on Canadian wine writer Natalie Maclean's "Wine & Food" tab and start playing with the "Wine & Food Matcher." It's addictive. The smart setup allows you to choose a key ingredient and select the method of preparation. Click on any of the suggested wine matches for the full lowdown on the grape and wine style.
Finally, follow a link to an exhaustive listing of specific wines, with scores, prices and useful bits of info such as UPC codes and percentage alcohol by volume. You also can download Maclean's Drinks Matcher Widget, or purchase her Mobile Matcher app for your iPhone or Blackberry -- a great option for navigating restaurant wine lists and those moments when your grocery cart is full of dinner ingredients and your head is empty of wine ideas.
Mainstream media: The Pour, nytimes.com/dining
Unlike so many American wine writers, Eric Asimov actually possesses a discerning palate, a curious mind and a modest demeanor. His columns and blogs, under the heading "The Pour" on The New York Times Dining & Wine Web page, tend to celebrate little-known regions and underrated vintages, giving wine geeks like me a warm fuzzy feeling whenever we read his work.
Oregon info: Oregon Wine, oregonwine.org
If you're simply after information on the local oeno scene, the Oregon Wine Board's Web site contains everything you could possibly want to know as well as links to subregions' sites. A cool tool: The "Oregon Wine Country Explorer," an advanced search engine that turns up the tasting rooms, restaurants and accommodations to suit your particular needs.
The Orlando Sentinel
March 10, 2008
By Bill Daley
The Orlando Sentinel published the same story as the Chicago Tribune.
The Peterborough Examiner
April 10, 2008
By Judy Creighton
The Peterborough Examiner published the same story as the London Free Press.
The Psychologist
May 2008
By Miles Thomas
Roots and brains
Lalou Bize Leroy, a Burgundian winemaker, has a rallying call of ‘Respectez le terre!’ ‘I hate technology,’ she says, ‘it produces fake wines’ (in MacLean, 2007, p.30). She views vine roots, somewhat anthropomorphically, as brains. She recounts stories of her vines ‘withdrawing’ from chemical dependency when switched to a biodynamic approach, created by the Austrian ‘anthroposophist’ Rudolph Steiner in 1924. Steiner believed that agriculture should be in harmony with natural systems such as lunar cycles, for example by filling a cow’s horn with manure and then burying it amongst vines until the spring solstice. Many psychologists might find such an approach contrary to ‘scientific’ understanding, but might also recognise the importance of studying such phenomena.
What can psychology add to our understanding of wine? Universities in Bordeaux, California, the Rhine and South Australia recognise wine as a subject worthy of study, with the production process the focus of most courses. Perhaps more fascinating, from a psychological perspective, are issues such as wine-related sociocultural practices, intoxication, marketing and the meanings we attach to wine. What do we know from cognitive psychology, health psychology, social psychology or neuropsychology? Can psychology help fill the gaps in our knowledge?
Question:
How can we best support people in making healthy choices regarding alcohol?
There are numerous books and articles on the philosophy, economics, marketing and ‘appreciation’ of wine. Many contain information that could be seen as primarily psychological, but I discovered when researching my new book on the topic that this has never been collated. There is the occasional juicy grape on the vine: Alexandra Woods Logue recently published a third edition of her excellent Psychology of Eating and Drinking with a few pages devoted to wine, and those who scour journals may find the occasional researcher investigating specific aspects, such as taste and smell. But in general, when it comes to a topic that many of us have a personal interest in, the psychology wine glass is not even half full.
This article therefore serves as just a brief taster of some areas that might be considered directly or indirectly related to the psychology of wine. I hope that those currently uninterested in wine might reconsider their position, those with a passing interest find themselves more
informed, and the already ‘passionate about wine’ find some of the content new to them.
History and wine culture
Viniculture has had a complex and important role in many cultures, and the history of wine throws up fascinating insights into sociocultural practices. There is evidence of the existence of wine 8000 years ago and archaeochemist Patrick McGovern has found ancient traces of wine in vessels excavated in Egypt, Greece and China. The high acidity and alcohol content of wine preserves organic traces of grape tannins and leaves a record of how these civilisations produced and used wine. In some civilisations commercial and practical applications were primary, whilst in others cultural and religious aspects were at the fore. From the Bacchanal to the Sacrament, wine has had a peculiarly sacred place in human history. Much of this is due to its sensual and intoxicating properties, yet other alcoholic beverages have not achieved the same cultural significance.
Early Greek philosophers used wine to stimulate discussion at the Symposium (literal meaning ‘drinking together’). However, this ritual was as much about celebration as philosophical insight. Interestingly, both drunkenness and abstention were seen as problematic in Greco-Roman culture. Demosthenes was derided by political opponents for not drinking wine, and Cicero often accused opponents of drunkenness. On one occasion Cicero charged Mark Antony with vomiting in the senate due to overindulgence. This caused such scandal that Mark Antony published a pamphlet De ebrietate sua (concerning his drunkenness).
However, Pliny then turned this on him by wittily interpreting it as his claim to be the ‘world champion at drinking’. Noah ‘planted a vineyard: And he drank of the wine, and was drunken’ (Genesis 9:20–21). St Cyprian viewed this drunkenness as an allegory for the divine ecstasy of the Eucharist. Indeed Christ’s first miracle was to turn water into wine at the marriage of Cana. Biblical references to wine are numerous, and there is a historical continuity of ambivalence concerning positive aspects of wine consumption and the negative effects of drunkenness.
Health and epidemiology
Nothing is so conducive to living an effective life as wine. Do you not see? It is wine-drinkers who make money, clinch their business deals, win their legal cases, become happy and help their friends.
Aristophanes, 5th century BC
Aristophanes’ view of wine is an idealized one, and any responsible psychological perspective acknowledges the health implications of ‘problem drinking’. However, much of the cultural importance of wine can be attributed to its medicinal use. Louis Pasteur called wine ‘the most healthful and most hygienic of beverages’; Hippocrates and Galen used wine medicinally; and the 16th-century physician Paracelsus is attributed as saying ‘wine is a food, a medicine and a poison; it’s just a question of dose’. Contemporary knowledge would support the wisdom of this statement.
Paschall and Lipton (2005) examined the relationships between wine preference and health determinants in a large US sample of young adults to improve understanding of the association between light-to-moderate wine consumption and long-term morbidity and mortality risk. Wine drinkers generally had more formal education, better dietary and exercise habits, and more favourable health status indicators (e.g. normal body mass) than other drinkers and nondrinkers.
A larger proportion of wine drinkers were ‘light-to-moderate drinkers’ compared to beer or spirit drinkers, and wine drinkers were less likely to report smoking or problem drinking than beer or spirit drinkers. The findings suggest that wine preference in young adulthood is related to educational, health and lifestyle characteristics that may help to explain the association between ‘light-moderate’ wine consumption, morbidity, and mortality risk in later adulthood.
Wine contains dietary polyphenols, a diverse group of plant chemicals. One type, procyanidins, seems to have particularly good vascular protective properties. In 1979 Dr Selwyn St Ledger et al. published an article in The Lancet reporting an inverse relationship between wine consumption and deaths from coronary heart disease. Epidemiologists had also reported low rates of heart disease in parts of France despite high consumption of saturated fats. This became known as the ‘French paradox’.
Although criticised as an artefact of the way in which deaths were recorded, there is a body of research supporting the view that moderate wine drinking can be part of a ‘healthy’ diet. There appears to be a consistent association between areas of increased longevity and wines with higher levels of procyanidins. Psychologists interested in health matters should look at Professor Corder’s (2007) book on health and wine. However, a synopsis of key advice would include drinking red wine from ‘The Red Zone’ where polyphenol levels are particularly high (e.g. Madiran made from the Tannat grape), in moderation and with food. Younger wine is ‘better’ due to higher tannic content, as is wine with long fermentation and maceration periods and less fining and filtering. For those who choose not to drink alcohol, similar benefits can be gained from eating cranberries and nuts.
It might be that the modern move towards an ‘easy drinking, soft and smooth’ style of wine will reduce potential health benefits. These wines are often high in alcohol and low in polyphenols. Thus, look for wines described as tannic and concentrated, with good acidity and ageing potential, that have had minimal processing. These tend to be more challenging for modern palates and are made by winemakers who reject globalisation, homogenisation and modern processing techniques to make wines by more traditional methods.
Ideology, globalisation and economics
There are ideological battles being fought over wine with ‘old’ versus ‘new world’ value systems, ecological issues and fierce debates over the merits of wine rating scales. These reflect epistemological tensions, such as relativist and positivist positions, as well as discourses related to globalisation and economics. There is a profound ideological divide between those who view wine as a ‘commodity’ and those who attribute metaphysical meanings.
American wine writer Robert Parker’s influential rating system originated from a desire to demystify wine and challenge exclusivity. Parker can be seen as representative of an empirical tradition of quantification, and his system could either be seen as a triumph of American pragmatism over French mysticism, (see box) or as simplistic and destructive reductionism. As Hugh Johnson observes, ‘the idea that you can score quality is fundamentally strange… I have never seen it tried on works of art’ (quoted in Maclean, 2007, p.122). However, classification systems such as the Aroma Wheel developed by Ann Noble, a Professor of oenology and viticulture, have demonstrated utility and validity by linking the molecular structure of wines with specific aromas such as cardboard and peppers.
But what are the consumers really looking for? Author Jay McInerney believes that there is no Platonic notion of perfection with wine and people ‘know what they enjoy and should trust their own taste’. Wine scores are, like most heuristics, a ‘convenient fiction’ that we use to get a grip on a difficult subject. Disraeli’s view – ‘I rather like bad wine…one gets so bored with good wine’ (The Two Nations, 1845) – finds a modern counterpart in Hugh Johnson’s Wine – A Life Uncorked, where he says that he would rather drink a ‘worse’ wine if it has ‘more to say’.
This hints at the concept of authenticity, a ‘cornerstone of contemporary marketing practice’ according to Beverland (2006). He looked at 20 ‘ultra-premium’ wineries and interviewed wine drinkers; he identified six key attributes of authenticity: heritage and pedigree, stylistic consistency, quality commitments, relationship to place, method of production and downplaying of commercial motives. These attributes resonated with consumers but were both ‘real and stylized versions of the truth’.
Perhaps, for all the talk of wine being an expression of the ‘terroir’ – place (soil, weather, etc.) and culture (history, process, etc.) in which it is produced – we tend to just judge a wine by its cover. Professor Larry Lockshin found the average decision time for wine consumers to decide which bottle to buy is 38 seconds, and decisions are mainly influenced by the label. Makers are therefore producing accessibly named wines such as ‘Good Red’ and ‘Rude Boy Chardonnay’ or bottles illustrated with celebrities they want to associate with the wine.
Cognition and behaviour
Many psychoactive substances have been associated with creativity, and ancient Persians are reported to have used wine to facilitate decision making. An issue would be explored whilst intoxicated and, the next day, the conclusions that stood up to sober scrutiny were adopted.
Some psychologists have demonstrated associations between music played in retail outlets and subsequent wine purchases. Playing classical or pop music does not influence the amount of wine purchased but appears to influence the average price of bottles selected, with classical music eading to sales of more expensive wines (Areni & Kim, 1993). It also appears that playing French or German music influences selections, with more purchases of wines from the same origin as the music (North et al., 1999).
It seems obvious to state that the colour of a wine influences our perception of it: colour depth is an accepted, learned association, quality indicator for red wines and many tasters now use black glasses to minimise such effects. Osterbauer et al. (2005) report an fMRI study exploring why it is that colour has such a strong effect on olfaction. For example, adding an odourless red dye to white wine has been shown to fool even Masters of Wine into describing ‘nose’ in terms reserved for red wines. These effects are not simply due to context or expectation. Colour can modify the response to an odour directly in the primary olfactory cortex, actually changing the way we perceive a fragrance. Thus, a blue wine might not only look ‘funny’, but would also smell strange.
Sebastian Payne, Chief Wine Buyer for the Wine Society, is fascinated by ‘the way smell, like music, goes straight to the part of the brain that stimulates emotions rather than the part that controls our speech’ meaning that aromas tend to be recognised ‘instinctively’ but are hard to describe, perhaps accounting for the ‘purple prose’ of tasters. Information processed by other senses goes to the hypothalamus and cortex for analysis. Adrienne Lehrer (1983), a linguistics professor at University of Arizona, has explored metaphors applied to wine. These are generally ‘enriching’ in language terms, but perhaps the trend is becoming ridiculous when comparisons are made between a wine and ‘Naomi Campbell in latex’.
Indeed, trying to describe the wine might actually affect your taste experience, unless you really know what you’re talking about. Melcher and Schooler (1996) found that non-experts were up there with experts in sampling wines and then identifying them from a selection, unless they had tried to verbally describe the wine between the first and second tasting. They concluded that verbalising undermined performance in less expert tasters.
Hughson and Boakes (2001) reviewed experimental studies of wine expertise and found that ‘expert performance’ may rely heavily on explicit knowledge. Many experts are able to discriminate between, and match, sets of wines that novices find indistinguishable. What basis might such expertise have in the brain? Castriota-Scanderberg and colleagues (2005) set out to investigate, using fMRI to study sommeliers and ‘control subjects’ to test the hypothesis that any difference in brain activity would reflect a learned ability to integrate information from gustatory and olfactory senses with past experience. Analysis showed activation of a cerebral network involving the left insula and adjoining orbito-frontal cortex in sommeliers. Both these areas have been implicated in gustatory/olfactory integration in primates. In addition, activation was found bilaterally in the dorsolateral prefrontal cortex, which is implicated in high-level cognitive processes, such as working memory and selection of behavioural strategies. Naïve individuals activated the primary gustatory cortex and brain areas, including the amygdala, implicated in emotional processing.
Brain scanning is also shedding light on how factors which are extrinsic to the wine itself can impact upon our perceptions of it. Plassman et al. (2008) used fMRI to monitor changes in the medial orbito-frontal cortex when participants were given wines, told that they had different costs – $5, $10, $35, $45 or $90 – and asked to comment on how pleasurable each was. Despite real cost, participants rated the wines labelled with higher prices as more pleasurable. The fRMI data appears to show ‘real’ increased pleasure despite wines being identical.
As for personal preferences, psychologists are well placed to consider the complex set of variables involved: genetic (Vietnamese tasters do not separate fruit and flower aromas in the same way as French and Americans); environmental (variations in salivary enzymes can also affect aftertaste and impact on individual perceptions) and contextual (a wonderful wine on holiday may taste dull on the return home).
The future
Wine means a great deal to the people whose livelihoods depend on it, and producing wine comes with stresses common to other professions subject to the whims of nature and economics. The suicide rate among winemakers in the Languedoc-Roussillon is a cause of concern and in June last year CRAV (Comité Régional d’Action Viticole – regional winegrowers’ action committee) threatened direct action if the French President Nicolas Sarkozy does not take measures to help wine growers in the region. One Montpellier journalist quoted by The Observer linked this struggle to resistance to globalisation and an expression of provincial independence. Psychological knowledge regarding stress management, the epidemiological nature of suicide and the nature of protest are relevant.
Other ‘big’ issues in the world of wine include climate change, and acceptable levels of alcohol consumption, perhaps particularly amongst the ‘middle classes’. Psychologists may be uniquely placed to offer insights on a range of wine-related issues, and to help ensure that drinking is managed effectively. Hopefully, we can do this whilst understanding and enjoying wine and the social and health benefits that can be associated with it.
The Salt Lake Tribune
March 10, 2008
By Kathy Stephenson
Monday is St. Patrick's Day, and that means corned beef and cabbage for dinner. The meal is more an American invention than an Irish tradition, but many still look forward to this unique meal.
The truly Irish will complement dinner with a dark Irish stout, such as Guinness. But selecting wine may require a bit of Irish luck, says Brett Clifford, the premium wine buyer for the Utah Department of Alcoholic Beverage Control.
"Salt from the corned beef and the wine don't mix well," he said. And eating "skunky" cabbage with wine that has a strong sulfur taste "will make both taste terrible."
Dark, nutty beers like Guinness are really the best option, Clifford insists. Fortunately, there are experts who aren't as skeptical.
A pinot blanc or sauvignon blanc should work for those who like whites, author Natalie MacLean writes on her user-friendly food and wine matcher: www.natalie maclean.com/matcher.
For those who prefer a red wine, MacLean suggests a Bordeaux or a New World cabernet sauvignon.
If you can't justify buying an expensive bottle of red for a meal that the Irish consider peasant food, chianti may work better. Food-friendly Spanish wines may also be a good choice, said Sheral Showe, owner of Wasatch Academy of Wines and a long-time Utah wine educator. She likes the bright and acidic Morgadio Albariño Rias Baixas.
And if all else fails, buy a sparkling wine, said Showe. "It goes with everything on the planet."
The South Africa Sunday Times
July 13, 2008
By Neil Pendock
Q. William S Burroughs said that, in a revolution, those who control the media control events. Today, wine blogs seem to be revolutionising wine. Do you agree?
A. Yes and no. Blogs expand the discussion beyond traditional media, allowing more drinkers and self- appointed critics to comment, but do more opinions mean more democracy or more noise? Most blog postings aren’t edited the way newspapers or magazines are, and while that can be liberating, it can also be a recipe for inaccuracy and unfairness. Overall, I think blogs are a good thing, but there will be a major shake-out in the next year or so. A few wine blogs will lead in visitor numbers because they’ll have built a reputation for honesty and good content.
Q. SA reds have an unsavoury reputation in the UK press, with pundits on The Times and Observer railing against dirty, unattractive flavours. Is this the North American perception?
A. We think of SA wines as one of the tasty bargains in the liquor store, especially your sauvignon blanc and shiraz. They’re well priced in the fiercely competitive category of $10-15 (R78 - R120). I often recommend them in my e-newsletter (www.nataliemaclean.com) as my “best value” picks. Your pinotage and chenin blanc don’t have much visibility here, perhaps because we’re already familiar with the other two wines from other regions. I log in to about 50 online wine columns every week, and there hasn’t been nearly as much talk about unattractive aromas here as there has been in the UK.
Q. You have rare talent for matching food and wine. What would you eat with our flagship cultivars, pinotage and chenin blanc?
A. Chenin blanc is very versatile, so I’ve paired it with sushi, mussels, Thai dishes and soft cheeses, among many others in my online matching tool. For pinotage, I’ve put it with roast or grilled lamb and game meats like ostrich. But the combinations are limited only by your imagination, hunger and thirst: chenin blanc, for instance, goes beautifully with my nine-year-old son’s Kraft macaroni and cheese.
The St. Louis Post-Dispatch
December 26, 2007
By Gail Appleson
When Rhoda Nussbaum was a little girl, she used to spend the night on Manhattan's ritzy Upper East Side visiting a wealthy aunt whom she described as an "incredible snob." Before Nussbaum would go to bed, a maid would bring her a glass of Champagne on a silver tray.
Today Nussbaum, who lives in Clayton, says sparkling wine is the only alcoholic drink she likes, but she never spends more than $15 or $20.
"My aunt would disown me if she was alive and knew I bought the cheap stuff," said Nussbaum, adding that inexpensive bubbly is her specialty.
Nussbaum is among many consumers who've learned that you don't have to spend an arm and a leg to get a tasty bubbly. True, these inexpensive wines probably don't come from France's Champagne region, meaning they aren't true Champagnes, but plenty of delicious, well-crafted sparklers come from different regions of France and from other parts of the world.
"Often the method used to make these sparkling wines is the same used to make Champagne," said Natalie MacLean, author of "Red, White and Drunk All Over: A Wine-Soaked Journey from Grape to Glass."
"You're getting a style unique to a particular region, but these bottles cost half to one-third the price of a non-vintage Champagne."
Some of these sparkling wines are so inexpensive that they shouldn't be reserved for celebrations or holidays, said MacLean, who also edits a wine newsletter found at www.nataliemaclean.com.
"The holidays are a good excuse to drink them, but they are among the most food-friendly wines," she said. "I love them with potato chips."
One way to try to determine the quality of an inexpensive sparkler is to read the label to see how it is made, she said. She suggested checking if it was produced through the méthode champenoise, the process used to make true Champagne in which the wine goes through a second fermentation inside its own bottle. In the United States, this sometimes is called the Champagne method; in Italy and Spain, this process is called the "classic" or "traditional" method.
For example, Cava, the sparkling wine made in Spain, is made through this method, which is why many wine store owners recommend it.
"The hottest (sparkling wine) category of them all is Cava," said George Randall, owner of Randall's Wines & Spirits in Fairview Heights and St. Louis.
Even at the upscale Wine Merchant, Cava is king, says owner John Nash. Specifically, NV Segura Viudas Cava Reserva Brut, at $8.99, outsells every other wine in the stores, in Clayton and Creve Coeur.
The store also sells a Segura Viudas split, holding about two small glasses of wine for $2.99. Nash said they can't keep it stock.
"It's incredibly well made. You can afford to pop open a bottle on a Wednesday night when you're watching television or at a special occasion," he said. "The driving factor of its popularity is the quality. We haven't found anything else like it in this price range."
The Segura Viudas is aged 2 1/2 years, longer than the requirement for vintage Champagnes, he said. "That's what keeps those fine, pinpoint bubbles." Better sparkling wines tend to have small bubbles. This Cava has such a following that Nash said that next year he plans to carry it in 1 1/2-liter magnums and in three- and six-liter bottles.
Don Pearline of Chesterfield is one of those who has become a Segura Viudas fan. He discovered the sparkler when his wife brought it home a few years ago.
"I like those tiny bubbles," he said. "It's a fun wine, and it tastes good."
Cava is also the choice of Linda Humes of Pacific, who buys Codorníu Reserva Raventós from Wines of Wildwood.
"I really love sparkling wine, but it doesn't have to be Champagne," she said. "One of my favorites is the Codorníu. It costs $18.95 but it tastes a lot more expensive. It's so clean with a nice mouth feel."
During the Christmas season, she likes to mix the Cava with a red juice. Last year she used pomegranate juice, and the year before, cranberry. As for Nussbaum, she likes to visit Straub's for Freixenet Cordon Negro, the popular Cava that comes in a distinct black and gold bottle. Freixenet S.A., a company held by the Ferrer family, also owns Segura Viudas and the Gloria Ferrer winery in Sonoma County, California.
Paul Hayden, wine buyer for the Wine and Cheese Place, said that while Cava is popular in the $10 and under category, his customers tend to go for California sparklers and French bubbly produced outside of Champagne if they are spending between $10 and $20. True Champagnes start at about $35 at the Wine and Cheese Place, with locations in Clayton, Ballwin and Rock Hill, and at sister store Provisions, in Creve Coeur.
Another trend is the growing demand for sparkling rosés, Hayden said. "They really took off last year, and prices have really been going up," he said.
One of the few California sparkling rosés under $20 is the Chandon Rosé produced by the Domaine Chandon winery in Napa, he said. The sparkler is doing well at Wine and Cheese, which sells it for $19.95. Domaine Chandon was established by the famous French Champagne house Moët & Chandon.
"People have really been discovering the brut rosés, myself included" said Karl Hagnauer, owner of Wines of Wildwood. "Sometimes the regular bruts are too sharp and dry. The rosé really takes the edge off. I've really fallen in love with them."
At Lukas Liquor Superstore in Ellisville, wine buyer Julia Whealon also has seen more interest in sparkling rosés, particularly as customers become more adventuresome.
"Sparkling rosés tend to be richer with a fuller mouth feel that's closer to red," she said.
But not everyone likes dry sparklers, and the sweet Italian bubbly Moscato d'Asti is a big seller this time of year. Although some dry wine drinkers turn their noses up at the sound of Moscato, Nash said that better quality Moscatos can be delicious, particularly paired with fresh fruit and a soft cheese like Gorgonzola.
He recommends the Saracco and Marenco labels. "Like with rosés, it has the connotation in some people's minds that sweet wines are inferior," Nash said. "But I serve Moscato to my wine snobby friends and they love them."
The Tablehopper
January 29, 2008
By Marcia Gagliardi
This week we have the return of the wino, and so while we're on wine, I was wondering if you were aware of this groovy tool, the wine matcher, from wine writer Natalie MacLean. It's helpful when you aren't dating or living with a sommelier, and you're trying to figure out what will go with the wine you have, or what to pair with dinner. Have fun.
The Tampa Tribune
March 10, 2008
By Bill Daley
The Tampa Tribune published the same story as the Chicago Tribune.
The Telegraph-Journal
December 26, 2007
By Judy Creighton
The Telegraph-Journal published the same story as the Winnipeg Free Press.
The Telegraph-Journal (2)
April 10, 2008
By Judy Creighton
The Telegraph-Journal published the same story as the London Free Press.
The Tennessean
July 25, 2007
Which wine pairs with which food?
By Thayer Wine
In addition to her guide where you can look up a wine and determine which food to serve with it or vice versa, look for books by Natalie MacLean and her free newsletter on wine at www.nataliemaclean.com/matcher.
The Traveling Mamas
April 29, 2008
By Beth Blair
The Traveling Mamas feel really lucky today to have the award-winning, wine-writing goddess Natalie MacLean with us sharing her experiences as a traveling mama. Natalie is the author of the book Red, White and Drunk All Over.
It doesn’t matter if you are new to the wine world or a seasoned wine drinker, you will likely enjoy Natalie’s entertaining book that takes readers on a fun journey “from grape to glass.” If you would like to learn more about wine, sign up for Natalie’s free newsletter Nat Decants (what a cute name!).
I learn something every issue. Thank you for joining us, Natalie!
1. You travel throughout your fabulous book Red, White and Drunk All Over as a sommelier experiencing the world of wine. Have you always been a traveler?
Yes, I’ve always loved travel, something I inherited from my mother. As a child, we’d travel together every March break and summer vacation. She was a school teacher, and single parent, so we’d use our holidays to visit various places across North America and other countries.
2. How do you keep in touch with your son while you are on the road, especially with time changes?
I didn’t travel much until he turned four. Since then, in the last five years, I’ve taken two major trips a year and we keep in touch by phone and e-mail. (He now writes his own e-mails to me.) While I was away, my husband would show our son where on the globe I was and he’d get a kick out of asking me if I’d eaten breakfast yet and what time was it and were there many toy stores in the area.
3. Do you have any advice for other moms who travel for work?
I think it’s ideal when you can blend working from home, which is what I do most of the time when I’m writing, and occasional travel when your children are young. Even though I miss my son and husband when I’m away, it’s also a wonderful way to reinvigorate my own sense of self and independence, and then to come home to them refreshed.
4. What is your favorite family destination? How about romantic?
My favorite family destination is Turks and Caicos: beautiful beaches, warm, not too crowded. It has everything we want: quiet spaces to read and relax, and a pool and beach for my son Rian (plus an endless supply of chicken nuggets).
For most romantic, I think of particular restaurants rather than cities because for me, romance is linked to great food and wine. So I recall the wonderful, romantic meals I’ve shared with my husband in Napa, New York and our own backyard with the barbecue.
5. Finally, all four of us Traveling Mamas love wine so we have to ask, what is your favorite wine to drink when just hanging out with the girls?
I love wines that aren’t too alcoholic so that you can sip on a few glasses over the evening without getting tanked. German riesling and Oregon pinot noir are among my favorites in this style: great conversation wine.
The Vallejo Examiner
March 10, 2009
By Patricia Kutza
We are just a week away from St. Patrick's Day - a time for merriment. And a time when many folks like to celebrate by serving a great meal to their friends and family. But pairing just the right wine and food can be tricky. I discovered a great tool that can help you pick the perfect wine to match with your food choice. You can try it out right here! Just start by clicking on the Food or Wine option....and have fun discovering which match will motivate them to do that Irish jig!
This Wine and Food Matcher comes courtesy of Natalie MacLean. Register for her free wine newsletter here. If you like this Matcher, Natalie also gives complete directions how you can share this clever wine and food pairing widget with your friends via Facebook, MySpace, Digg and a host of other social networking sites and devices.
The Vancouver Province
November 30, 2008
By Rachel Naud
When the weather outside turns frightful, there's nothing more satisfying than staying home with a warm meal and a good glass of wine.
A steaming bowl of stew, a mouth-watering prime rib or a heaping plate of pasta can bring comfort on the worst winter nights. But the meal just isn't complete without the perfect vintage on the table.
And just as our meals become heartier and richer in the winter, the wines that pair perfectly with comforting fare are of the full-bodied kind.
"I look at my wine wardrobe the way I look at my clothing and I think as the weather turns colder, you want to look at the warmer wines," says Natalie MacLean, a certified sommelier and author of Red, White and Drunk All Over (Doubleday). "The dishes we eat in the winter tend to be heartier . . . so as the weather cools down, I look for robust reds, particularly Australian Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon from Chile or California, or Argentinian Malbec."
Rita Stephens, product consultant for the Liquor Control Board of Ontario (LCBO), says other wines well-suited to the season include full-bodied Bordeauxs and Cote du Rhones.
White wine lovers needn't go without for the winter. There are many full-bodied white wines on the market that also pair perfectly with a hearty winter meal.
"If you prefer white wine, you still have options during the winter," says MacLean, who opts for full-bodied Chardonnays. "Look for a white wine with some oak in it. When wine is aged in oak it gives it those warm, toasty vanilla flavours that are extremely comforting."
When pairing food with wine, MacLean says three things have to work together: flavour, texture and weight. "Does your wine have a lot of cherry plum flavours?" asks MacLean. "Is that echoed in your dish?"
MacLean says where texture is concerned, the mouth-feel should be similar between the wine and the food.
"You want those honking reds and whites to go with a robust dish," says MacLean. "A wimpy wine will just get clobbered by a big steak."
MacLean says steak is best enjoyed with a red wine that has some tannins in it, such as a Cabernet Sauvignon. Tannins are byproducts of the grape skin, stems and pits that MacLean says "make your mouth feel furry."
"If you brewed yourself a cup of tea, put the tea bag in it, walked away and came back an hour later and took a sip, you would feel that gritty astringent feel on your palette -- similar to tannins in wine," adds Stephens.
MacLean says high-tannin wines pair well with steak because the proteins from the steak attach themselves to the tannins, making both the steak and wine taste better.
"It's basically mouth chemistry," says MacLean. "That's why it works."
High-tannin wines are also a good pairing with meals high in fat.
Jennifer McLagan, an Australian-trained chef and author of Fat: An Appreciation of a Misunderstood Ingredient (McClelland & Stewart), says one of her favourite winter comfort foods is Cassoulet -- beans layered with sausage, lamb and duck confit, which is cooked slowly in the oven.
Because this dish is high in fat, she serves it with a hearty wine from the southwest of France or a Shiraz.
MacLean and Stephens say a roast beef dinner is best paired with an Australian Shiraz, Bordeaux or Barbera from Northern Italy.
When it comes to pairing pasta with wine, it depends on how it's prepared.
Traditional red-sauce pastas are great with Italian reds whose acidity matches the tangy acidity of the tomato sauce; a crisp Riesling or Sauvignon Blanc will cut through the fat in a creamy white sauce.
If you're dishing out a hearty Irish stew, serving a robust red -- a Malbec or Cabernet Sauvignon -- will complete the meal.
Remember, though, these are only guidelines, MacLean says.
The best rule to follow when pairing a wine with a meal is to simply follow the lead of your palette.
"Pick wines that you like," she says. "Relax -- have a drink."
The Vancouver Province 2
December 7, 2008
By Rachel Naud
When hosting a holiday meal, the wines you serve are just as important as the food when it comes to making a sparkling impression with guests.
From beginning to end, pairing the best wines with appetizers, the main course and dessert will not only show your guests you care enough to make the effort but will also give them an unforgettable experience this holiday season.
Start the night off with a toast of bubbly to celebrate the occasion and the New Year to come.
"Champagne is a very festive wine," says Jennifer McLagan, an Australian-trained chef and author of Fat: An Appreciation of a Misunderstood Ingredient and Bones. "It goes with anything you're eating so when in doubt, serve Champagne."
If you'd rather opt for a more moderately priced beverage, sparkling wine is a great alternative.
"Sparkling wine from Canada, California, Spain (called Cava) or Italy (called Prosecco and Spumante) are all lovely," says Natalie MacLean, certified sommelier and author of Red, White and Drunk All Over. "Those are all white sparkling wines but you can also get a rose bubbly, which is very festive. Float a raspberry on top and it looks lovely on the table."
If you'd rather serve a bevy sans bubbles, Rita Stephens, product consultant for the Liquor Control Board of Ontario (LCBO), suggests choosing a wine with acidity.
"It will get the juices in your palette going and (you will) say to yourself 'I can't wait to have that meal,'" says Stephens. "It's a great palette cleanser. I would look at a Pinot Grigio from Italy, a Riesling from anywhere or a Sauvignon Blanc. If you choose a Chardonnay, pick a full-bodied, unoaked one."
When it comes to the main course, most people serve some type of roast bird during the holidays -- be it turkey, chicken or goose. But during the holiday season, don't settle for the white meat, white wine philosophy.
"The rules about wine and meat matching up on colour don't apply nearly as much as they did 50 years ago," says MacLean. "Today, because cooking and wine have changed so dramatically, we have so many more choices."
Because turkey is a mild, often drier meat, MacLean advises to keep the wine light and juicy. "Choose a Pinot Noir, Beaujolais or Garnet and keep tannins low because tannins dry out your mouth and you already have a dry bird. You want a juicy wine that really moistens that meat."
However, roast chicken is usually juicer than turkey so hosts can feel free to serve a drier wine.
"The classic pairing with a roast chicken is a Chardonnay," says MacLean. "Find one with oak on it because oak has buttery notes, which makes for a gorgeous highlight with roast chicken."
For those with a palette for red wine, silky dry reds such as Merlot, Cabernet Franc or Shiraz are best with roast chicken.
If you're serving a gamier, racier meat such as goose or Cornish hen, hosts are wise to opt for a gamier, racier wine.
White varieties from the Rhone Valley work with these meats as well as Sauvignon Blanc. Reds such as Pinot Noir and rich Zinfandels are also perfect pairs for gamier meat.
For those just venturing into the world of wines, all of these options can be daunting, which is why
Stephens has one easy-to-follow rule when picking wine for holiday fare. "Bird and Burgundy. Remember that and you'll never fail," says Stephens.
Just as the meal doesn't end before dessert, neither should your wine offerings.
"The rule of thumb with dessert and wine is make sure the wine is sweeter than your dessert," says MacLean. "Otherwise the wine will taste bitter by comparison."
MacLean says Canada's renowned ice wines are perfect for desserts such as fruit flan, pumpkin pie or fruit cake.
Chocolate desserts are made even more sinful with a side of raspberry wine, according to Stephens, while MacLean opts for a deeper, sweeter port.
"A little dessert wine goes a long way," says MacLean. "You're only pouring two ounces and you're chilling it, but it's such a nice way to end a holiday meal."
Handy food and wine matcher
The Internet is a great resource to help plan your holiday meal. Check out www.bcliquor stores.com for recipes, hosting tips and a party calculator, which will add up the number of bottles of wine you'll need for all your guests.
Approximately 97,000 subscribers turn to Natalie MacLean's free e-newsletter (www.nataliemaclean.com), which offers a wine and food matcher.
Simply pick the food you're serving and a list of perfectly paired wine appears. Now all you have to do is pour, serve and enjoy.
Champagne dessert to top off the holiday meal
Preparing for the big holiday meal can be stressful. However, this recipe -- one of chef and author Jennifer McLagan's family favourites -- can be prepared up to two days in advance.
And the best part -- it's made with champagne. So relax and pour yourself a little bubbly while preparing a holiday dessert sure to impress.
Champagne Parfait
With Raspberry Sauce
The parfait tastes better if you allow it to soften slightly before serving it.
Parfait:
4 egg yolks
1/2 cup granulated sugar
3/4 cup champagne
1 cup whipping cream
Sauce:
6 oz. fresh raspberries
1/4 cup icing sugar
1/2 tsp. freshly squeezed lemon juice
In a large bowl beat the egg yolks and sugar with an electric mixer until the mixture becomes light and thick.
Add the champagne and place the bowl over a pan of simmering water. Continue beating until the mixture doubles in size and resembles lightly whipped cream -- about 10 minutes.
Remove the bowl from pan and place in a larger bowl filled with ice cubes and water. Stir occasionally with a wire whisk, until cool.
Meanwhile, line an 8 1/2 x 4-inch loaf pan with plastic wrap and whip the cream just until soft peaks form. Then whisk the cream into the cooled champagne mixture until just blended. Pour into the prepared pan and place in the freezer overnight.
To make the sauce, place all the ingredients in a food processor and process until pureed. Pass the purée through a fine sieve to remove the seeds. You will have about 3/4 cup of sauce.
To serve, cut the parfait into slices and serve with the sauce. Serves 8 to 10.
The Vancouver Sun
February 6, 2008
By Mia Stainsby
Natalie MacLean (who's won four James Beard Journalism awards) offers 50 ways to impress your love on Valentine's Day. Go to www.NatalieMacLean.com and you'll find wines to complement 50 chocolate dishes.
"When you pair wine with the mouth-coating luxury of chocolate, the combination is impossible to resist," she says. Her top five wine and chocolate matches are: dark chocolate and Banyuls (France); chocolate-covered biscotti and Recioto Della Valpolicella (Italy); chocolate-orange cake and Liqueur Muscat (Australia); chocolate with nuts (Tawny Port, Portugal); and milk chocolate and Tokaji (Hungary). If you're stumped about a wine match for a dish, e-mail her via her website and she'll suggest one.
The Vancouver Sun (2)
February 14, 2008
By Joanne Sasvari
Whoops! Did you forget to order flowers or book a table for tonight? Luckily, all is not lost, especially if you decide to keep the mood (and the gifts) going into the weekend. Here are 10 great suggestions for last-minute Valentine's Day gifts:
1. Sweeten the mood. Chocolate has long been considered an aphrodisiac, probably because it contains minute amounts of the "love drugs" tryptophan and phenylethylamine. Our fave chocolates this V-Day come from Thomas Haas, whose beautiful hand-painted chocolate hearts come filled with truffles ($16 or $24 at the Thomas Haas Patisserie, Unit 128, 998 Harbourside Dr., North Vancouver, 604-924-1847, www.thomashaas.com).
If you're wondering what libations to pour with those chocolates, turn to wine writer Natalie MacLean, who suggests pairing dark chocolate with a fortified wine like Banyuls from France, milk chocolate with Hungarian Tokaji Aszu and chocolate-dipped fruit with Canadian ice wine. For more pairing tips, visit her website at www.nataliemaclean.com/matcher.
2. Book a "holidate." Fairmont Hotels & Resorts are a little in love with the whole idea of the romantic mini-breaks increasingly known as holidates. For instance, Fairmont Chateau Whistler is offering a "Break the I.C.E." getaway (the acronym stands for Ice wine, Chalet fondue and a ziptrek Ecotour), from $799 a couple, while Victoria's Fairmont Empress has a Lover's Escape package, with dinner, accommodation, an aromatherapy love kit and, of course, breakfast in bed, from $269 a night. Book now, indulge later. For more info, visit www.fairmont.com.
3. Pick a flower. Sure, roses are romantic, but why not go for something more exotic? Orchids represent love, beauty and refinement, plus they're long lasting, come in dozens of colours and styles, and are just plain gorgeous. If you forgot to get some for today, better order them in time for the weekend at www.getfreshflowers.ca or call 604-685-3500.
4. Step it up. Has your sweetheart been smitten by shows like Dancing with the Stars or So You Think You Can Dance? Then it may be time to book a couples ballroom dancing lesson. At JC Dance Co., owners Joel Marasigan and Clara Shih can teach you the steps that will have you waltzing in each other's arms forever. For more info, call 604-725-5635 or visit www.jcdanceco.com.
5. Play the music of love. The modern version of the mix tape is a rose pink iPod nano loaded with love songs, starting at $168 at The Apple Store, www.apple.ca.
6. Indulge the senses. At Absolute Spas, guests can revel in the Renew Rose Valentine's Day specials featuring precious damask roses from Bulgaria. The four-hour Absolute Sweetheart package includes a rose relaxation body massage, rose facial and triple-rose manicure and pedicure, $295. Romantic yes, but for something even more idyllic, pick up a gift certificate for a couples treatment at one of Absolute Spa's nine locations, including the Fairmont Hotel Vancouver and Century Plaza. For more info, visit www.absolutespa.com.
7. Proclaim your love from the mountaintop. The West Coast's most romantic climb has got to be the hike to the 260-metre summit of Valentine Mountain on the Sunshine Coast. Book a cosy B&B to relax in afterward. Visit the Vancouver, Coast & Mountains Tourism website at www.vcmbc.com or call 604-739-9011.
8. Sparkle. Make your lover's eyes shine with the modern but romantic Elsa Peretti Open Heart collection at (www.tiffany.com) or the Links of London charm bracelet from Holt Renfrew (www.holtrenfrew.com).
9. Spread the word. If you can't find the words to celebrate your love, these books will. The Dictionary of Love by Will Hopkins (Harper Collins, $16.50) defines l'amour while Love: A Celebration in Photographs by Ferdinand Protzman (National Geographic Society, $38) captures romantic moments around the world and Will You Marry Me by Helene Scheu-Riesz (Simon & Schuster, $17.50) pays tribute to 700 years of marriage proposals.
10. Plan a weekend rendezvous. Vancouver's most romantic hotels offer dining-and-accommodation packages with some naughty extras. The Get a Room package at the Pacific Palisades includes a Kama Sutra Lover's Paintbox with three flavours of chocolate body paint (starts at $299; www.pacificpallisades.com) and Hotel le Soleil's Romance Package includes chocolate-dipped strawberries, sparkling wine and a rose petal turndown service (starts at $269; www.hotelesoleil.com). Late checkout a must.
The Vancouver Sun (3)
November 29, 2008
By Joanne Sasvari
Today's wine drinker is not who you might expect. You'll still find ladies-who-lunch sipping their Chardonnays and snooty "cork dorks" sniffing out barnyard aromas in Burgundies from obscure wineries.
But today's wine drinker is also a 20-year-old uncorking a Chianti for the first time, a young professional enjoying a food-friendly Riesling, a mid-lifer embarking on a wine country adventure and the retiree sharing a half-litre of B.C. red in a pub.
In short, today's wine drinker is everyone you know.
"There's no doubt that Canada is now a wine-drinking, wine-loving nation," says Natalie MacLean, the Ottawa-based editor of the wine newsletter Nat Decants (www.nataliemaclean.com) and author of the bestselling book Red, White and Drunk All Over. "We're not only drinking more wine than ever, but we're also drinking better-quality wines from a wider range of regions."
Statistics show each Canadian consumes an average of 10.6 litres of wine annually.
Over the past five years, wine consumption has increased about three per cent, while beer and spirits consumption has decreased.
Leading the growth are the so-called "millennials," the 19-to-30-year-olds whose social lives revolve around going out to pubs, lounges and restaurants.
"Younger people are choosing wine at an earlier age than previously," says DJ Kearney, a Vancouver sommelier instructor and wine consultant.
Typically, she says, a young drinker used to start exploring with beer, then spirits and finally wine, beginning with what she calls "wine with training wheels," fruity, off-dry wines such as Liebfraumilch or white Zinfandel.
Now, Kearney says, "young drinkers are moving to wine sooner than ever in their drinking evolution, and not necessarily through the 'training wheel' phase with soft, fruity wines, but heading for more robust, slightly more expensive wines sooner."
Of course it's not just the youngsters who are drinking wine.
"Affluent baby boomers are willing to spend money on lifestyle products and they're knowledgeable about wine's health benefits in moderation," MacLean says. "More Canadians of all ages are drawn to epicurean travel and therefore sample great wines."
The development of Canada's own wine industry -- in B.C., Ontario, Quebec and Nova Scotia -- has been a contributing factor to the increased popularity of wine. It has brought attention to a homegrown product that's unique, delicious and affordable.
Indeed, the growth of quality value wines from around the world has been a significant contributor to the growth in wine consumption.
"Globally, over the past 10 to 15 years, the wine industry has made a shift to producing a new tier of wines that are well-priced and already drinkable without having to be aged," says Leeann Clemens, a wine industry professional in Vancouver.
"There's no fear or risk, and you don't need to know vintages."
At the Queen's Cross Pub in North Vancouver, for instance, co-owner Chris Greenfield has noticed a huge growth in wine sales, especially among younger customers. When he chooses his wines, he's careful to follow trends -- which right now skew toward reds from B.C., California and Argentina -- but he also has to keep his wine list within a price point that will sell.
"People aren't going to the pub to drink a $100 wine," Greenfield says. "But it's pretty common for people to come in and have a $50 bottle of wine with food."
There are two other important factors contributing to our evolving wine culture.
First, we've become more adventurous. Consumers are increasingly seeking out wines from Israel, Tasmania or Patagonia, says Kearney, who's also seeing "a tidal wave of interest and support" for sustainably farmed, organic and biodynamic wines.
Second, the average consumer has become more informed about wine, about its varietals, regions, techniques, etiquette, and accoutrements like proper glassware. And that consumer wants to know even more.
"Our International Sommelier Guild classes are slammed here at VCC (Vancouver Community College)," Kearney says. "They are full of students in the wine profession as well as serious amateurs who seek more precise, formalized knowledge of how to buy smarter, drink better, what to cellar, how to pair food and wine . . . The thirst is insatiable."
And why not? As MacLean puts it, "Wine is one of the greatest pleasures in life and judging by our consumption and appreciation of it, Canadians are living better than ever."
The Village Voice
May 26, 2009
By Chantal Martineau
Natalie MacLean, author of Red, White and Drunk All Over, has launched a new Drinks Matcher widget, a portable version of her popular food and wine pairing tool. The free Drinks Matcher widget is downloadable in just three clicks.
The Virginia Pilot
June 6, 2007
Don’t know what wine goes best with your Jell-O dessert? Would Chardonnay be appropriate with your fried chicken take-out? Natalie MacLean, author of “Red, White and Drunk All Over: A Wine-Soaked Journey from Grape to Glass,” will help you match your eating and drinking choices at www.nataliemaclean.com/matcher.
The Wall Street Journal
November 18, 2007
By Kelli Grant
Today's cut rate from the Fed has economists expecting that the already-weak dollar will fall even further. That's after the greenback hit a new record low against the euro early Wednesday, breaking the record it set Monday following announcements of a plunge in consumer confidence — i.e., a measurement of Americans' optimism about the economy, based on surveys.
What does that mean for your wallet? Simply put, the weaker the dollar, the more you pay for imported goods such as that favorite bottle of Château Lafite-Rothschild from France or that Mercedes-Benz S-Class from Germany. "Currency fluctuations immediately affect prices," says Michael Woolfolk, senior currency strategist for The Bank of New York Mellon.
But that change is more on manufacturers' bottom line than price tags, he says. Just how much, and how quickly prices fluctuate depends on several market factors. Where the goods come from will have a significant impact. You can expect to see more of a price hike on products from Canada, Australia and Europe than those from Asia. That's because many Asian currencies — including the Chinese yuan and the Hong Kong dollar — are pegged at or near the U.S. dollar, meaning the values of these currencies tend to move in tandem.
Market competition plays a role, too. Based on sale projections from the National Retail Federation, retailers are facing their worst holiday season in five years. Yet most of them would rather keep prices low and take on any extra cost themselves than risk losing customers at the cash register. "[There will be] none of these across-the-board price increases," says Milton Pedraza, president of Luxury Institute LLC, a market research firm. "It's going to be very surgical, with most increases coming after the new year."
If there's good news, it's that the dollar's recent decline represents a relatively small slide in a six-year plunge, which has seen its value decline by about 30% against the Fed's trade-weighted index of major world currencies. "The dollar has been weakening against the major currencies for several years, so the bulk of price changes have already taken place," says Tony Gao, assistant professor of marketing at Northeastern University. "The question is really how much further."
Big-ticket items such as cars, jewelry and wine are traditionally hit hard when the dollar weakens. Here's what to expect:
Jewelry
The double whammy of a weak dollar and high consumer demand world-wide has sent prices for raw jewelry materials — most notably diamonds and gold — skyrocketing.
The issue with gold is twofold. Typically, when the dollar is beaten down, investors flock to gold as a safe-haven investment. That's definitely been the case in recent weeks. (Gold hit a 28-year high Wednesday as the dollar flirted with record lows.) On top of that, gold is priced in U.S. dollars, which means foreign buyers can buy it at a discount to U.S. consumers as the dollar continues to fall, which drives up demand and therefore prices.
And while some jewelers set prices by what they paid at the time they bought these precious metals and gems, others continuously jack up prices to reflect the going rate. That makes it crucial for consumers to comparison shop, warns Renée Newman, author of "The Jewelry Handbook." "It's no longer a given that a more expensive piece is better," she says. You'll need to research — and then compare — those factors that affect a piece's quality and desirability. An independent appraisal couldn't hurt either if you're eyeing a particularly expensive piece. (For tips to help you separate the real sparklers, click here and here.)
Look for the biggest increases in machine-made jewelry. "There, you're paying mostly for the metal and gems," she says. "If it's a custom-made, one-of-a-kind piece, you're probably paying more for the craftsmanship."
There are a few bargains to be had at the jewelry counter. Because diamond prices are directly pegged to the U.S. dollar, prices of average-quality stones should be heading lower, says Martin Rapaport, founder of the Rapaport Diamond Report. "I don't think the weaker dollar has come in time to reduce holiday prices at Wal-Mart," he jokes, "but you should certainly go out and look now." That's not the case for high-end stones, however. If you're looking for an engagement ring or other jewelry focusing on one or two flawless stones, expect to pay a premium.
Wine
Go ahead. Raise your wine glass in celebration. Because the holiday season is when the bulk of wine is purchased, it's unlikely that you'll see price changes on any but the most expensive and desirable bottles, says Natalie MacLean, editor of Nat Decants, a wine education site. "With higher demand, ignoring the increase would be a clever marketing strategy," she says. Just don't expect bargains on everything. With prices on U.S. wines already dropping abroad, it's unlikely you'll see many holiday-related price cuts at home. (Champagne is always a particularly good deal this time of year. For tips on getting the most value on a bottle, click here.)
More substantial changes will show up next fall, when the wines crafted this year are released on the market. But it's tough to anticipate how much of the change would be a result of the declining dollar as opposed to, say, a particular vintner or region producing a very good year, says MacLean. "The vintage factor is always a large part of the price," she notes.
Cars
If you're looking to buy a car in the next year, you're more or less in luck. Auto prices aren't expected to ratchet up much more than the traditional 1% to 2% between model years. Heated competition among auto makers makes currency fluctuations less relevant — European manufacturers need to offset price increases to keep U.S. consumers interested in buying their cars over Detroit's, says Jack Nerad, executive editorial director for Kelley Blue Book. It doesn't hurt that brand rivalries span continents. Germany's BMW needs to keep prices paced with Japan's Lexus, despite the latter country's more stable relationship to the U.S. dollar.
If there are any increases due to the weak dollar, you can expect them to kick in slowly over the course of the next year as manufacturers replace diminished imported stock with newly built, higher-cost cars. Aiding the snail's pace are the foreign auto makers' North American plants, whose products are considered domestic goods. (More than half of U.S. Volkswagen models, for example, are built at its Puebla, Mexico, plant, while BMW recently announced plans to increase production at its Spartanburg, S.C., location.)
Looking at the whole picture, next year might actually make for a better year to buy an import, says Jesse Toprak, executive director of industry analysis for Edmunds.com. As the U.S. dollar has declined, European auto makers have offered bigger rebates. "If you look at the prices, they're not going up," he says. "But the incentive spending is going up dramatically." In 2003, an auto maker could offer $2,000 cash back at a cost of €2,040 to its bottom line. Today, spending that same sum enables them to offer more than $2,900 in rebates to U.S. customers.
Note: This article was also published in Smart Money Magazine.
The Wall Street Journal (2)
November 14, 2008
By Dorothy Gaiter and John Brecher
Can you suggest wine-pairing Web sites?
— Robert B. Moberly
Fayetteville, Ark.
There are thousands of opinions on what food should be served with what wine. Keep in mind that any pairing is a highly personal suggestion and that the most important pairing advice is that if it tastes good to you, then it's a good match.
We prefer to use books for quick reference, but there are some good Web sites that you should bookmark, too. Wine writer Natalie MacLean keeps a nice database of pairings on her Web site, http://nataliemaclean.com/matcher.
The Whig-Standard
February 11, 2009
By Judy Creighton
If a box of chocolates is your gift choice for that someone special this Valentine's Day, put some adventure into it and pair it with a bottle of wine. Just be the sure it's the right wine.
"Ideally you should choose a wine that is sweeter than the chocolate," says Natalie MacLean of Ottawa, an accredited sommelier, wine writer, speaker and judge. "Otherwise the wine will taste bitter by comparison."
She says that no matter what kind of chocolate you've got, there is also richness which comes from high alcohol.
MacLean suggests taking a piece of dark chocolate which is high in cacao content (70 to 90 per cent) and pairing it with either tawny or vintage port.
"My favourite is tawny because I love the caramel toffee nutty goodness in it," she adds. "But vintage will also work because it has dark plum, cassis and blackberry notes."
And surprise, even milk chocolate can be paired, although it is a bit more complex task, she notes.
For instance, a wine such as Hungarian Tokaji could work well.
"It has those wonderful buttery aromas of over-ripe apricots and peaches, so think of the fillings that are in milk chocolate or truffles, and the flavours that come through in a Tokaji are lovely," MacLean says.
Asked if fruit wines could be paired with chocolate, she says no, because they are too light.
"A strawberry with a little chocolate on the tip would be lovely with fruit wine or ice wine for that matter. You can't go too heavy with chocolate dessert and a fruit wine because it doesn't have the body or the weight to match."
Mid-range dark chocolate matches well with a purply plummy sweet wine such as Italian Recioto Della Valpolicella.
"It's rich but not quite as hefty as port," says MacLean. "Another one would be a sweet cream sherry which like port is fortified."
This is a process in winemaking in which grape spirits like brandy are added to the fermentation juice, she explains.
In the case of port, the brandy is added while it is fermenting. For sherry, it is fermented to complete dryness and then the brandy is added.
Here are MacLean's top 10 wine and chocolate matches:
-Dark chocolate and Banyuls, France.
-Chocolate-covered biscotti and Recioto Della Valpolicella, Italy.
-Chocolate-Orange cake and Liqueur Muscat, Australia.
-Chocolate with nuts and Tawny Port, Portugal.
-Milk chocolate and Tokaji, Hungary.
-Bittersweet chocolate and Amarone, Italy.
-Chocolate-dipped fruit and Icewine, Canada.
-Chocolate Ganache Truffles and Sauternes, France.
-Chocolate raspberry cheesecake and Framboise, California.
-Chocolate hearts with cream filling and Cream Sherry, Spain.
"Wine is liquid sensuality: Its heady bouquet stimulates the appetite and its velvet caress soothes that desire," MacLean says.
"And when you pair wine with the mouth-coating luxury of chocolate, the combination is impossible to resist."
To learn more about wine and food pairing, log on to her website at www.nataliemaclean.com
Note: This story was also published in The Record, The Peterborough Examiner, London Free Press and the Daily Gleaner.
The Wilmington Star
February 7, 2007
By Liz Biro
I won’t get a heart-shaped box of chocolates for Valentine’s Day. I never do, despite it being the only gift I want every Feb. 14.
The desire, I suppose, goes back to when my parents were a young couple. Dad always brought Mom the most stunning box of chocolates after work on Valentine’s Day. They were huge red- or pink- or white satin-covered hearts dolled up with ribbons and roses, bits of lace, the package crammed with creamy, chewy, fruity or nutty secrets hidden within thick layers of milk and dark chocolate, each candy nestled in a dainty brown paper cup.
And, lucky me: I always received a smaller duplicate of my mother’s gift.
Unfortunately, as time passed, chocolate became the Valentine’s present that would ultimately make lovers ask each other the dreaded question: Does my butt look fat? A 2006 Harris Interactive poll showed that only about 30 percent of women wanted chocolate for Valentine’s Day (most chose a card, flowers or sex, in that order). Even worse, now dark chocolate is considered health food.
Ugh!
Still, I want the chocolate, and, as usual, I’ll probably have to buy my own box, but this year I may pair wine with my sweets. Acclaimed wine writer Natalie MacLean has added a cool tool to her Web site that allows users to easily search wines and foods that complement each other.
MacLean knows what she’s talking about; she’s won lots of James Beard and Bert Greene writing awards for her articles about drinks, and she was named World’s Best Drink Writer at the 2003 World Food Media Awards in Australia. Her new book, Red, White and Drunk All Over, takes readers behind the scenes of the international wine world with interesting stories about vintners and how wine is made, marketed and matched with food.
With chocolate, MacLean likes dessert and fortified wines such as port and Banyuls; the robust red Italian Amarone; and sparkling shiraz.
Generally, oenenphiles suggest choosing wine at least as sweet as your chocolate. Match lighter milk chocolates with light wines such as pinot noir, riesling and Hungarian Tokaji. Heavier cabernets, merlots and zinfandels work with dark chocolate. Try shiraz with truffles, champagne with white chocolate and ruby port with chili-flavored chocolates.
Tokoyo Weekender
March 17, 2010
By J.K. Whelehan
A small child was being admonished by his piano teacher, who asked, “Why is it you always forget your homework? I never forget to correct it and bring it to class.” The boy looked the teacher straight in the eye and with a certain amount of awe in his voice replied,”You must have a mind like Santa Claus.”
When I tell people that I’m a professional wine taster they often have similar reactions. They assume that I—like Santa is somehow able to determine who’s been naughty and who’s been nice— am blessed with an extraordinary palate, enabling me to detect even the subtlest nuances of taste. The world of wine, it seems, is still shrouded in enough mystery to instill that sense of awe in the layperson.
But professional and nonprofessional alike, we all have a greater capacity to detect and categorize the varied sensory perceptions produced by wine than we are perhaps aware of; we just need to learn to focus on them. Not surprisingly, this ability is intrinsically more developed in individuals who grew up helping their parents in the kitchen.
But how to hone your knowledge? A great source of information are free newsletters like Nat Decants (www.nataliemaclean.com). However to master the basics of wine so that “you can swirl, sniff and sip wine like a pro” in the company of others, a good place to start is at Temple University’s master wine class (www.tuj.ac.jp/newsite/main/cont-ed/courses/culture_and_arts/HVW101.html) or another one of the schools which offer an English option, such as the JAL Wine and Sprit Education Trust wine school, Academie du Vin, or Wine Schola.
In the words King Edward VII, “One not only drinks wine, one smells it, observes it, tastes it, sips it and one talks about it.” A good way to put this into practice is through the Tokyo Wine Society (www.tokyowine.org). This organization consists of a group of wine enthusiasts thathold a monthly blind wine tasting, which is open to the public for a fee, at different restaurant venues in Tokyo.
Each month the society typically holds a horizontal tasting (wines from the same vintage and grape variety are tasted side by side) of nine different wines or more. By focusing on a single variety or region, you quickly learn to identify the differences. Most importantly, by tasting many wines you will be able to discover wines you like, so you know what to purchase the next time you go to the store.
Toronto Life
May 19, 2009
By Davida Aronovitch
Foodie apps for iPhones and BlackBerrys are all the rage of late (PC Magazine recently did a roundup of their favourites), and leading the charge is sommelier and “unapologetically tipsy” wine lass Natalie MacLean. She recently launched a downloadable widget for her popular on-line drinks matcher, offering roadside assistance for LCBO-goers moored hopelessly between the Argentina and Vintages racks.
The portable version allows users to pair food and drink from anywhere using a smart phone, then share the results via Facebook, MySpace, e-mail or Friendster. The app is downloadable from MacLean’s site, Nat Decants, and provides access to the 50,000 wine reviews she’s compiled over six years. That’s a lot of tipsy.
Updated daily, MacLean’s tool exists in two sizes and provides access to thousands of pairings. Users can match food to drink—or vice versa—by first selecting a broad category (“veal,” “white wine”) followed by a specific one (“wiener schnitzel,” “pinot blanc”), and then reading up on the recommended drink.
The pairer can account for even the most unusual suspects, should provisions in the liquor cabinet or pantry run low. Among MacLean’s top 10 classic combos are lamb stew with Irish stout, macaroni and cheese with Argentine malbec, chocolate cake with Kentucky bourbon and (our personal favourite, for cast iron stomachs) spaghetti and meatballs with a bloody Mary.
As is the trend among tippling experts, MacLean goes democratic, including such budget-friendly bevvies as beer, coffee and tea alongside more traditional pairing picks, like wine, spirits and cocktails. (Colombian dark roast coffee, for example, is MacLean’s pick for toffee pudding.)
Oddly enough, the master taster’s favourite blends are “shabby-chic” duos, like Oreos and port. While there’s something slightly perverse about combining archetypal kids’ cookies with alcohol, we think we may just give it a shot—while booking dinner reservations and riding the King car, of course.
Toronto Star
April 27, 2009
By Susan Sampson
Whether you're indulging in shepherd's pie or dim sum, there's always a wine to match.
But what is it?
Check the portable new Drinks Matcher Widget from Natalie MacLean, publisher of Canada's largest wine e-newsletter. This food-and-wine pairing tool can be downloaded to your desktop, social page, website or blog.
Go to www.nataliemaclean.com/matcher.
You can search by the food or by the wine, then browse through recipes or drinks reviews.
MacLean spent eight years testing the combinations for her Drinks Matcher.
"I'm a thoroughly hedonistic researcher," she says in an email. "Of the thousands of combinations I tried, some were delicious, others were a disaster."
That's a lot of eating and drinking, but someone's got to do it.
Trenz Magazine
June 2007
By Suzanne Westover
The moment she tasted her first brunello, Natalie MacLean fell head over heels in love…with wine.
“As I raised the glass to my lips, I stopped,” writes MacLean in her new bestseller, Red, White and Drunk All Over: A Wine Soaked Journey From Glass to Grape. “The aroma of the wine rushed out to meet me, and all the smells that I had ever known fell away. I didn’t know how to describe it, but I knew how it made me feel,”
Since that fateful evening, MacLean has been sipping, swirling and spitting her way to an empire built on making wine accessible to an everyday audience.
What began as a wine and food pairing column in a supermarket magazine has evolved into a widely-read e-newsletter called Nat Decants, a myriad of columns in magazines, and enough accolades to make one’s head spin, even before that first intoxicating sip.
MacLean has earned the title of World’s Best Drink Writer, which she credits in large part to her “Teflon liver.” Her writing is funny and without pretense; she treats a traditionally highbrow subject with a sense of playfulness and humor. She goes on to add that it’s her passion for people and their personal histories that breathes life into her writing.
“People and their stories are endlessly fascinating,” MacLean explains. “That’s why I take the adventure storytelling approach of trying to be an undercover sommelier for a night in a fancy French restaurant or help a nutty winemaker in California with the harvest.”
While she has obviously honed her craft, having obtained certification as an accredited sommelier, she isn’t afraid to poke fun at oenology’s staid conventions. In fact, many would argue that MacLean represents a whole new breed of wine writers.
“Interest in wine has exploded,” says Michael Botner, a former instructor for the Sommelier Program at Algonquin College and co-founder of the National Capital Sommelier Guild. “Talented writers [like Natalie] are certainly a big part of that development.”
This new approach to wine appreciation isn’t about defiling old traditions; rather, it’s opening doors to allow a younger generation to learn about a craft as compelling as wine, in a way that doesn’t condescend or intimidate.
“I write the way I talk because a conversational tone is less intimidating when it comes to wine, as opposed to a know-it-all preachy approach or one full of technical jargon,” explains MacLean, who lives just outside Ottawa. “I also love humor to lighten what can be a dry subject.
“The key to remember is that wine is just alcoholic grape juice — it’s meant to be enjoyed with friends.”
MacLean explains that while wine is a vast subject, loaded with detail, she realizes that not everyone craves a doctorial dissertation on the subject. In fact, she often opts to discuss how a wine makes her feel, as opposed to how it actually tastes.
“Writing about how wine makes me feel keeps it real, personal and intimate for me,” she says. “There’s a reason why we don’t have orange juice critics: wine gives us a pleasant meditative buzz, which makes it ideal to share over dinner. Contrast that to the get-it-over-and-done buzz of vodka shooters or a six-pack of beer.”
MacLean and her whimsical approach to the subject may be heralding in a new era of wine appreciation among young people. Study abroad programs, user-friendly packaging and the Internet have all lead to the democratization of wine appreciation.
“I think that the web is absolutely key to more people feeling comfortable about wine,” says MacLean. “Younger drinkers especially look to the web to learn about wine in a way that previous generations could not.”
Increasingly, wine makers are recognizing the buying power of the younger wine drinker, and are marketing accordingly. Sofia Coppola has released a line of mini champagne cans, while Virgin is marketing two varieties of reasonably priced screw top wines — a shiraz and a chardonnay, under the tagline “Unscrew it, let’s do it!”
In fact, the Wine Market Council, a U.S.-based organization that promotes wine, recently partnered with Date.com, a popular singles website, to encourage would-be daters to feel more confident about choosing wine at restaurants during an already stressful situation: the first date. A newsletter full of wine tips and advice was created and distributed to more than 2 million Date.com subscribers.
When asked if wine could lose some of its cachet through this demystification, MacLean says she doesn’t think so.
“I think wine will always fascinate us and there’s enough nuance in where it comes from, how it was made and which dishes to serve it with to keep it endlessly intriguing,” she says. “When we get rid of the useless barriers and pretension, then we move on to these more interesting aspects of wine.
“People are happier when they find small sources of pleasure in their lives, and that makes me happy.”
I’ll drink to that.
Tri-City Herald
March 17, 2010
By Bob Woehler
Riesling has been called the wine for all occasions, and luckily, there's plenty available in Washington.
It's one of the most versatile white wine grapes and can be made in styles to fit almost any mood or occasion and to match a wide range of foods.
You can find a good one for under $6 a bottle retail, and it is often the lowest-cost wine on restaurant wine lists.
Rieslings are versatile because they come in all measures of sweetness -- from bone dry to syrupy sweet. The most popular seems to be off dry, with about 2 to 3.6 percent residual sugar.
Nat's Decants, www.nataliemaclean.com says wine and food matches for riesling include Muenster cheese, spicy chicken wings, mild coconut curry, many Mexican dishes, Hawaiian pizza, poached salmon, the turkey holiday dinner and Greek salad.
Here are a few of the better ones now on the market:
Pacific Rim 2007 dry riesling, Columbia Valley, $10 -- This offers great balance and flavors, like taking a bite of apple crisp with a peach on top.
Washington Hills 3-liter nonvintage box riesling, Washington state, $16-$20 -- This is equivalent to about four bottles at $4 to $5 a bottle and just right for a wedding shower. Fragrant peach aromas and bright acidity.
Kiona Vineyards 2007 Dry white riesling, Red Mountain, $11-$13 -- It opens with floral aromas followed by wonderful fruity peach flavors and is good as it gets.
Columbia Crest 2007 Two Vines riesling, Washington state $5-$7 -- Juicy and refreshing with excellent acids, it's like sampling a fruit orchard at harvest time. Widely available.
Barnard Griffin 2008 white riesling, Columbia Valley, $7-$10 -- Wine Enthusiast put this one on its top 100 wines in America and its personifies a Washington riesling, with ripe apple aromas and creamy peach flavors.
Hogue 2008, late harvest white riesling, Columbia Valley, $8-$10 -- Honeysuckle, apricots and sweet lemon dominated this wine's aromas and flavors, with its 5 percent residual sugar perfectly balanced for a dessert wine.
Ste. Chapelle 2006 Winemakers Series, Idaho, $6.50 -- Delicious semisweet apricot and peach flavors, with yet crisp acids to make it enjoyable.
Erath 2006 dry riesling, Oregon, $10 -- Lemon-lime flavors with a hint of sweetness in its Germanic style.
14 Hands 2008 riesling, Washington state, $10 -- Minerality, apples and peaches balanced with bright acidity.
Trinidad and Tobago Newsday
December 31, 2009
By Helga Trim
Natalie MacLean, editor of one of the largest wine newsletters on the web and author of “Red, White and Drunk All Over”, says:
“Santa Margherita Prosecco, D.O.C., Veneto, Italy: A lovely summer day with bright notes of ripe white peach and toast. Toast your good fortune to be alive. Score: 89/100.
Bollinger Champagne Special Brut Cuvée, A.C., Champagne, France: Green apple, toasty bread and lovely white peach goodness. An extraordinary complex bubbly. This was James Bond’s favourite bubbly: it makes every occasion special! $79.95 Score: 93/100
Why? I love to have 2 choices: one a value option for larger parties during the holidays and then a special bottle for a quiet evening with my husband...”
USA Weekend
December 21, 2007
By Frappa Stout
Wine always makes a tasteful gift, and you never have to wrap it. But how do you know whether your cubicle mate or running partner prefers a dry white or a luscious red?
Add a tag to the bottle that lists his favorite complementary dishes, and you'll be a hero.
Unless your giftee is a habitual dieter or true ascetic, chances are you've dished about food. And your friend's favorite cuisine may be all the insight you need to buy a great wine for him or her, says Natalie MacLean, sommelier and author of Red, White and Drunk All Over: A Wine-Soaked Journey from Grape to Glass.
Here, she and chef Michael Chiarello, the Emmy-winning star of Food Network's Easy Entertaining with Michael Chiarello, offer tips on matching wine to taste buds. Just add a tag to the bottle, listing the best foods for your chosen wine.
STEAK LOVER: For the red-meat fan on your list, a robust cabernet sauvignon is a sure bet. "When you've got a juicy rare steak, the protein in the steak binds with the tannins in the wine, and they do a happy little dance in your mouth," says MacLean, who has won four James Beard journalism awards for her wine writing. Try a cabernet-dominated Bordeaux from France or a California cab.
COMFORT FOODIE: One word: merlot and forget about all that Sideways trash talk. "Merlot is soft jazz, it's fluffy sweaters, it's an Irish setter by the fireplace," MacLean says. "It's an easy-drinking wine with a plummy fruit taste, and it goes well with things like stew or shepherd's pie."
FAST-FOOD JUNKIE: If you think there's no wine out there for this budget-minded person, then you're wrong. "Two Buck Chuck at Trader Joe's is perfect for 20-somethings," Chiarello says. "It has become the jug wine of the new generation." He recommends a cab or merlot, but Charles Shaw wine (as Two Buck Chuck is really called) also makes chardonnay, sauvignon blanc, shiraz, Pinot Grigio and Valdique, similar to a Beaujolais nouveau -- at $1.99 to $3.49, depending on the region. Even at prices that are a little higher, a bottle of wine can be an inexpensively elegant gift.
HEALTH NUT: If your friend is all about lean chicken and antioxidants, go for a low-alcohol wine. MacLean suggests a pinot noir from Oregon, or a Riesling, which can have as little as 7% to 9% alcohol (most wines are around 13%). For the vegetarians in your life, she says, go for a crisp New Zealand sauvignon blanc: "It's like a salad in a glass."
ASIAN ADDICT: A wine's job is to go with the food, but also to get you ready for the next bite, says Chiarello, who owns a Napa Valley winery. "Someone who likes Asian food would like wine varietals, like a German Riesling or a Gewuerztraminer, because it will help clear the palate between bites. A cabernet, especially with Thai food or something spicy, will make the tannins feel like gnawing on a splinter." MacLean likes champagne with fish, sushi or sashimi. "A swarm of bubbles will wash away any fishy taste and also refresh your palate."
CHOCOHOLIC: One yummy pleasure deserves another, and the perfect choice for this sweets lover is a box of his favorite chocolates paired with a luscious dessert wine, such as a true port from Portugal or Banyuls from the Pyrenees of France. They have "the richness and body to match the chocolate," MacLean says. "And they're fortified with more alcohol, which literally melts the chocolate in your mouth."
Vancouver Sun
December 29, 2009
Nat Decants answers the eternal question
By Randy Shore
Some wines are definitely a better fit with certain foods, but I admit I lived many years without realizing just good a food and wine pairing could acutally be. On my one and only visit to Lumiere - during the Rob Feenie years - I ordered a ten-course tasting menu and the matched flight of wines for each course. I was humbled.
The food was good. Each course was either a single bite of something quite special or a few bites of something sumptuous. There was Israeli couscous and paper thin smoked duck breast and goat cheese cheesecake and lots of other little plates that I barely remember. But the wines that the sommelier (the super-expert wine guy that really expensive restaurants employ) put with our courses were utterly amazing, not only in how good they tasted, but how they elevated each dish.
I got out of Lumiere about $400 lighter (it was my wife's birthday present), but seeing wine in a whole different light.
If you have ever wondered which wine to put with a particular dish, wine writer Natalie MacLean has the coolest little gadget to solve your dilemma. Her widget (below) is the result of years of "hedonistic" trial and error. Only the best matchings are included. Give it a try. Click on the food button and select a dish or if you already have a wine click the wine button and see what you are having for dinner. (There is also a mobile version you can use on your iPhone or Blackberry.) Sign up for the Nat Decants Wine Newsletter to keep abreast of all things wine.
So your assignment is to use the wine matcher and share your favourite pairings. If you know of a pairing that the wine matcher doesn't, let us know. If you have a revelation, we want to know that too. Use the comments button - it's right down there - and tell me what your favourite food and wine pairings are.
Here are a few that you might not have guessed at:
1. Popcorn with Chilean Chardonnay
2. Nachos with California Zinfandel
3. Potato chips with French Champagne
4. Pizza with Italian Chianti
5. Fish and chips with German Riesling
6. Hamburgers with Australian Shiraz
7. Smoked salmon with Canadian or Oregon Pinot Noir
8. Quiche with New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc
9. Canned brown beans with tawny Port
10. TV dinner steak with French or Washington Cabernet Sauvignon
Think you can do better? I dare you.
Vendor Magazine
July 2007
A Canadian Superstar
By Becky Solomon
You may have clicked on her hugely popular website Nat Decants at www.nataliemaclean.com. You may have read her work in Bon Appétit or her bestseller Red, White, and Drunk All Over, reviewed in the New York Times. She writes for many major wine publications and, in turn, this Canadian is written about.
Meet Natalie MacLean, whose ability to bring esoteric wine knowledge to regular folks has made headlines the world over.
An interview with Natalie
Vendor: Who do you try to please when you write - yourself, or a particular audience? How does having a following affect how, or what, or for whom, you write?
Natalie: I write to please myself, in that I only tackle topics I find interesting. The key is a great story. It has to have some adventure, and some obsessed, creative and passionate people. I'm fascinated by the people; you learn about wine through their stories. That’s why I went “undercover” as a sommelier, helped with the harvest, and worked in several wine stores for the book.
Vendor: I was at a tasting once where Napa Valley chef and master of wine Tim Hanni talked about how great company enhanced his enjoyment of a mediocre wine, and awful company practically ruined his enjoyment of a fantastic wine. What is it that makes a great wine?
Natalie: The wine has to be good, but context matters - who you're with, what you're eating, where you are. The wine also has to be well made. Balancing the elements of alcohol, acid, fruit character, tannins and so on, and the ‘X’ factor of how it all comes together. Does it speak of the place it comes from? Does it pull you headlong into the glass? In trying to describe the ‘X’ factor, people dip into
purple prose. I've had far more of those experiences with Burgundian Pinot Noirs than anything else. There's something about it that's elusive.
Vendor: Where are the best values coming from now?
Natalie: Argentina is going to be huge, especially Malbec. Their wines are getting lots of scores in the 90s for $15 bottles. Also look at South African Shiraz and Sauvignon Blanc. I love New Zealand, but it's getting pricy. Canada is still under-valued for what we produce. It's not cheap making wine here, but still under-priced for its quality. Also, watch Spain and Portugal.
Vendor: What's hot for summer?
Natalie: We're going to see more screw caps, Pinot Grigios, off-dry Rieslings and rosés. These are great for camping and picnics. Rosés, Pinot Grigio and screwcap wines are the three biggest growth categories in the U.S., and likely in Canada, too. People are rediscovering that they can be dry, elegant and great accompaniments to food.
Vendor: How do you think restaurateurs should be pricing their wines?
Natalie: I call it the Wolf Blass index. The Yellow Label Cabernet is on a lot of lists, and many diners know the retail price, so they can figure out the mark-up. For pricier wines, say $80-100 and higher, scale back on the percentage mark-up.
Vendor: Which wine regions do you want to travel to next?
Natalie: For my second book, I want to go to Germany and travel along the Mosel river. I'm also dying to go to Tuscany, Spain, Greece, and the regions of France I haven't yet visited.
Natalie's Tips
Natalie spent several days working in wine stores for a book chapter on buying (and selling) wine. Based on her experience, customers often don't get to know their local wine merchant because they're afraid of looking dumb. Solution? Use shelf slips to describe the wine, and a newsletter also helps to build relationships.
Offer samples and they will buy it
Natalie suggests having three bottles open for tasting in-store. Customers love the chance to try before they buy.
Displays
Pick a theme, and make it big, colorful, and immediately understandable to your customers.
Shelf slips
Natalie's view is that customers read shelf slips rather than ask questions.
Victoria Times Colonist
March 10, 2008
By Chris Cobb
The Victoria Times Colonist published the same story as the Ottawa Citizen.
Vintage Gifts
By Natalie MacLean
One of the easiest people to buy for on your list this year is the wine lover. There seems to be no end to the wine books, videos, gadgets and accessories that pour on to the market each year. Even the budding oenophile will appreciate these gifts. The books can be purchased from most major bookstores across the country, while the accessories can be found in specialty wine stores in your area or by calling the stores listed below. In addition to these selections, most of the provincial liquor stores offer special gift packages for the holidays.
The beautifully illustrated, panoramic maps of Oz Clarke’s Wine Atlas of the World include the major grape growing regions of the world as well as lesser known areas such as the Western Balkans, Asia and the Black Sea States. The book also provides an overview of the winemaking process as well as the major wines for each region making it an excellent resource book for any wine library. The opinionated British wine critic Oz Clarke keeps his prose lively, deftly sidestepping the dense and deadly category into which wine resource books often fall. His Pocket Wine Guide 2000, is essential whether you are dining in or out. In it, you will find most wines on the market rated and described, as well as a barrel full of useful information. The atlas is $80.00 and the pocket guide $18.00.
In 1985, Joy Sterling left her career as a television journalist to manage the marketing of her parents’ Napa Valley winery. Vineyard: A Year in the Life of California’s Wine Country is her third book about life at Iron Horse. With its extravagant photography and leisurely prose, it is both an elegant coffee table book as well as strong addition to any wine library. Sterling brings us up close to the crush and into intimate nooks that we likely would miss even if we were walking through the vineyard. Produced with photographer Andy Katz, the book is published by Simon and Schuster and retails for $35.00.
Wine with Food by Joanna Simon is one of the best for exploring wine’s relationship with all types of dishes, trimmings and sauces. Simon will help you answer such questions as which wine complements Thai food, can you serve white wine with red meat and will any wine stand up to spicy, hot chili? The book, published by Simon and Schuster, retails for $34.00.
For those who’d rather watch than read, the eponymously titled Jancis Robinson’s Wine Course follows the wine writer as she travels to each wine region chatting informally with leading vintners about their wines. The video series is also packed with helpful tips from choosing the right glass to decanting wine. Perfect for those holiday evenings when you want to curl up with a glass of ice wine and watch something other than the latest Lethal Weapon sequel. Available from the Wine Establishment in Toronto (416-861-1331) for $129.95.
The Most Useful Wine Gift Award this year goes to a decanter stand that allows you to dry decanters after washing them. The pine version is $19.95 and chrome is $29.95. Available from C.A. Paradis in Ottawa (613-731-2866).
Wine glasses always make a great gift. The market leader Reidel offers the Vinum line for $24.95 per glass or the Overture line, an excellent value at $12.95. Try giving a set of six or more so that they may be used for entertaining. Available at the Marquis Wine Cellars in Vancouver (604-684-0445).
The Lear Jet of corkscrews, Screwpull’s Elegance Leverpull corkscrew makes the struggle to uncork wine a thing of the past. At $359.95 it should probably open the bottle for you, but that’s probably next year’s model. Available at the Marquis Wine Cellars.
Inevitably even the most careful tipplers may topple their red wine on a light carpet or pair of pants. Don’t worry, there’s Wine Away, a red wine stain remover that works on most carpets and materials. It’s $17.95 at the Wine Establishment.
For preserving wine try Private Preserve. Though many wine lovers never need to preserve a half finished bottle (and would think it bizarre that anyone should), for those who have simply topped out on their last bottle of Chateau d’Yquem, this aerosol nitrogenous spray removes the oxygen in the bottle so you can recork wine to keep it fresh for a few days. The can is $19.95 at C.A. Paradis and will preserve up to 120 bottles.
Did you ever fantasize about running a winery? Now you can do just that without giving up your day job. The Monopoly Game: Napa Valley Edition allows players to move their pieces around the board while haggling over such august wineries as Beaulieu, Robert Mondavi and Stag’s Leap instead of the classic Park Avenue properties. Available from International Wine Accessories (800-527-4072) for US$35.00.
The Baccahanales game will help you improve your wine tasting skills while you play. With 44 reusable scent essences, 50 tasting guides and a test aroma glass, both beginners and enthusiasts can sharpen their ability to distinguish a wine’s quality, origin and characteristics. Available from International Wine Accessories for US$94.95.
Don’t forget stocking stuffers such as a 4-bottle cream canvas wine bag for $13.95 from Stoney Ridge Cellars in Vineland, Ontario (905-562-1324), ice wine jelly for $4.95 per jar and fruit-flavoured salsas such as cranberry-cabernet sauvignon for $6.95 from Mission Hill Winery in Westbank, British Columbia (250-768-5125) and damask white napkin sets with woven grape names for $24/set of four from Cave Spring Cellars winery in Jordan, Ontario (905-562-3581). All the wineries deliver custom baskets filled with such delectables as ice wine truffles, tea towels, books, clothing and of course, the old stand-by gift: a bottle of wine.
Washington Post
November 2, 2007
By Jennifer Barger
Why did the chicken flee screaming across the road? It might've been escaping the dinner-party host trying to fry him and serve him with, yawn, a bottle of chardonnay.
Matching vino and vittles for your next bash doesn't have to be a "Wine for Dummies" affair relying on tried-and-tired combos (steak with Merlot, fish and Pinot Grigio). But combining tidbits that are supposedly wine-averse — Indian take-out, chips, breakfast — might mean you'll uncork some interesting bottles.
"In Europe, wine culture is quite developed, so it’s common and easy to simply pair white with fish or things like that," says New York wine writer Tyler Colman, who blogs at DrVino.com. "In America, our cuisine is quite different. We've created things that are harder to match."
Colman even posts seemingly impossible wine foods — falafel sandwiches, chili con carne — on his site and lets oenophile readers duke it out over what'd go best. (Consensus? A medium-bodied white for the former; a red or sparkler for the latter.)
There are as many ideas about which foods to eat with which wines as there are expensive B&Bs in Napa. But it helps to keep a few rules in mind when pairing non-trad dishes with fruits of the vineyards. "The most important thing is the weight and intensity of the dish," says Andrew Stover, sommelier at Oya (777 9th St. NW). "It's best to match full-bodied wines with full-bodied cuisine or vice versa."
At the restaurant, Stover serves sushi (nope, it's not just for sake anymore) with either dry or semi-dry crisp whites like Austrian Gruner Veltliner or Spanish Xarmant Txakolina 2006, a lip-smacking Basque treat. The idea is to not overpower the variety of tastes in the rolls — sticky rice, salty salmon, maybe spicy mayo.
Using wine to counterbalance food's flavors can result in such surprising buffet bedfellows as salty potato chips and dry champagne. "That swarm of bubbles refreshes your palate and makes the next chip taste good," says Natalie MacLean, a Canadian sommelier and author of Red, White and Drunk All Over. "It really varies the tastes and flavors."
Sweet dessert wines, while usually partnered with creme brulees and plum tarts, can also cut through the richness of red meat or charcuterie. "I had a breakfast party where we served sausages with sauternes [syrupy sweet French dessert wine]," says Sebastian Zutant, sommelier at Proof (775 G St. NW). "It's that salty-sweet idea."
While matchy-matchy is a no-no in fashion, it can sometimes work wonders with wine and food. Zutant recently put a super-buttery chardonnay with an eggplant and goat cheese panini at Proof. The rich flavors worked in concert, "like pairing fat and grease," he says. MacLean likes baked beans with tawny port. "I've got a trailer-trash heart. The beans and port have similar flavors of caramel and almonds. It's all soft and round."
Even oddball dishes with lots of conflicting, grape-stomping flavors (hot dogs and sauerkraut, spicy Thai noodles) can be tamed by decanting something with residual sweetness, say an off-dry reisling or a vouvray.
This week, Colman and several other wine writers each brought a wine to test with kebabs and curries at an East Side Indian restaurant. Sure enough, slightly sweet white wines won the taste-off. "Off-dry whites and bubbles tend to be good omnibus wines," says Colman. "They can absorb salt and spice."
"It's intimidating to go off the beaten path," says Troy Bock, wine director at Sonoma (223 Pennsylvania Ave. SE) and Mendocino Grille (2917 M St. NW). "But if you match two flavors you like, it often works." His fave odd coupling? Chocolate cake and Syrah.
Yet some snacks will never meet their match. "I'm still experimenting with Mars Bars and Smarties," says MacLean. And while pork rinds and a Pinot Gris might taste OK together, the spicy white is far yummier with pork barbecue.
"I don't think KFC's bowl of potatoes and chicken pairs with wine," says Colman. "But we've started to have a conversation in America about pairing non-traditional food with wine. We don't have to be mired in a Merlot morass."
Washington Post
July 2, 2009
By Monica Bhide
These days, Americans are enjoying a broader universe of ethnic cuisines and wines, and so the inevitable questions arise: What to drink with vindaloo (other than chilled beer)? What to pair with kung pao? Which wine goes with cilantro?
I turned to Natalie MacLean for answers. She's the editor of Nat Decants, a free, award-winning wine newsletter.
At the outset, I copped to my lack of knowledge about the subject she knows so well. I told her honestly that each time I go out to eat Indian food, I always order Gewurztraminer, a wine my somewhat limited experience tells me pairs well with this food. She told me: “Did you know that the name translates to ‘spice wine’? It’s got an aromatic intensity (full of rose petals and litchi) and stands up well to a spicy meal. It is not a wimpy wine.”
Her advice is practical and makes so much sense: “Choose wines that are not aged in oak and don’t have large amounts of tannins. Tannins actually accentuate heat and salt. High-alcohol wines with spicy foods will make your mouth taste like it is on fire.” Of course, while this makes perfect sense – crisp, aromatic whites are a great choice for spicy foods – I wonder if this means that reds are totally out of the picture? “Of course not,” she says, “you can definitely try a wine that contrasts with spices, like a plush red that is ripe and fruity or some soft Italian reds.
For complementary tastes, go with sweet German Riesling.” Riesling, which can go from bone dry to intensely sweet, provides a touch of sweetness that goes well with the hot/sour/salty/bitter flavors of spices. In fact, adds Natalie, “it is true ‘sweet meets heat’ and can soften the perception of heat on the palate. Riesling has great acidity and ripe fruit flavors like peaches, limes and pears. It prolongs the pleasure of the first bite of food, but then gives you a different sensation each time you sip it and go back for another bite!”
Sounds like my Gewurztraminer crush is coming to an end.
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Natalie MacLean's Top 5 Wines for Spicy Dishes
2007 Lingenfelder Bird Label Riesling, Germany ($15): Always a pretty quaffer! The ultimate apéritif wine, with vibrant notes of ripe melon and pear. Terrific with cilantro-infused dishes and mild to medium curries.
2008 Kim Crawford Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc, New Zealand ($18): One of my favorite Sauvignon Blanc producers from New Zealand. This is a lovely white with herbal and green fruit aromas. Lively and vivacious. Closed with a screw cap, but opens with a smile. Try it with dishes seasoned with dill or basil.
2006 Pierre Sparr Gewürztraminer Réserve, Alsace, France ($16): Classic aromas of white grapefruit, rose petal and litchi in an aromatic cloud of pleasure. Terrific apéritif, but also works with caraway and any dish with floral notes.
2006 Maysara Jamsheed Pinot Noir, Oregon ($28): Lovely aromas of rose petals and violets, and underneath, fresh-turned earth and wild mushrooms. Silky texture with a lovely cherry-infused finish. Perfect for saffron, anise, fennel, oregano and rosemary.
2007 Cline Zinfandel, California ($14): This full-bodied wonder delivers hedonistically rich aromas of fleshy black raspberries, brambleberries, blackberries, dark spices and pepper. The palate is richly layered, smooth and mouth-filling. Terrific with medium and more robust curries, peppers and dark spices.
Natalie MacLean's Top 10 Wine Matches for Herbs and Spices
1. Caraway and Marsanne
2. Cilantro and Riesling
3. Tarragon and Chardonnay
4. Curry Powder and Syrah
5. Rosemary and Merlot
6. Dill and Sauvignon Blanc
7. Saffron and Pinot Noir
8. Mint and Pinot Grigio
9. Coriander and Rioja
10. Anise/Fennel and Viognier
For wine pairings with 48 herbs and spices, visit nataliemaclean.com.
Washington Post (2)
March 10, 2008
By Jane Black
Of 11 wines on the tasting table, the Col d'Orcia Rosso di Montalcino, a full-bodied, fruity Tuscan red, was Tom Natan's top choice. Adam Manson hated it.
Both have well-trained and -respected palates. Natan is a partner in the Washington-based importer and retailer First Vine. Manson is a co-owner of Veritas, a popular wine bar in Dupont Circle. But the physiological differences in their tongues, coupled with their varied experiences, mean that the same wine tastes different to each of them. To Natan, the big, juicy flavors are luscious. To Manson, they are overwhelming, even bitter.
Neither one is right or wrong, says Tim Hanni, a California wine consultant. At a tasting organized by The Post last week at Phillips Seafood, he analyzed the two men's taste buds, a process he calls "getting your buds done."
After watching them taste and then scrutinizing their tongues through an industrial magnifying glass, Hanni labeled Natan a "tolerant" taster because he has fewer taste buds and tends to prefer ripe, concentrated wines. Manson, with more taste buds, is a "sensitive" taster and usually likes more-balanced wines without strong tannins.
"Hypersensitive" tasters, Hanni's third category, tend toward delicate, slightly sweeter wines such as Rieslings that are easy on the palate. "Sweet" tasters, the final group, are also hypersensitive, Hanni says, with confidence in their taste and little interest in learning to like drier wines.
Knowing your type is akin to knowing your shoe size, Hanni says. Wearing a size 8 is not good or bad; it's just a fact that helps you find something that fits. "People live in different sensory worlds," he says. "We need to acknowledge that."
If it becomes widely accepted, Hanni's system could upend the way we think, judge, even talk about wine. Instead of 100-point scales or talk of "grassy," "gooseberry" notes -- wine descriptors that Hanni says can become "insufferable" mumbo jumbo -- drinkers would need only to understand what makes up a perfect score or pleasant flavor for them.
That can vary widely depending on physiology, sex and personal experience. At a 2006 pinot noir judging in San Francisco, the female judges' first choice came in 35th out of 40 among the men. The men's first choice came in 35th out of 40 for the women. (Women are much more likely than men to be sensitive or hypersensitive tasters, though sex isn't a determining factor.)
This week, Hanni is putting his methods to the test at the first Lodi International Wine Awards in California. He says he developed the awards to help consumers and to improve traditional wine competitions, where he says one outspoken judge can sway other panelists with different palates. Instead of giving out medals, taste-bud-tested judges will bestow prizes based on taste preferences.
So, a wine may win a top prize for tolerant tasters but only a bronze, or no medal at all, for hypersensitive drinkers. Consumers who know their type can then buy wines that are at the top of the class for their palate, not an anonymous judge's. "We're heading towards an Oprah moment," Hanni says.
His goal, he says, is to democratize wine once and for all. It's something the industry has been talking about for years: getting rid of the snooty sommeliers and insisting that it's okay to drink white zinfandel with your steak if that's what you like -- really. "There's no right or wrong" has become a mantra of the new generation of wine professionals.
But the overwhelming nature of the wine business has made it tough to persuade consumers to trust their palates. "I don't know of any other industry that has such a broad range of products and prices," says Natalie MacLean, an author and the editor of a free wine newsletter at http://www.nataliemaclean.com. "There are more than a million producers, and each one makes at least a few wines, all of which change every year. Multiply that together and it's dazzling, overwhelming and confusing."
The Budometer, a computerized palate assessment tool, aims to turn theory into practice. Consumers fill out a survey at http://www.budometer.com that is designed to gauge their tastes. (Hint: If you like black coffee or Scotch or, counterintuitively, find foods too salty -- salt suppresses bitterness -- you're probably a "tolerant" taster.)
The Budometer instantly tells consumers what kind of taster they are. It offers up styles to look for -- tannic reds, New World pinot noirs, Alsatian whites -- and specific wines they might enjoy. Starting in May, visitors to Copia, an education center in Napa that promotes the understanding of food and wine, can confirm their status by having their tongues analyzed.
Hanni developed the Budometer with the help of two sensory scientists at the University of California at Davis. It takes into account a decade of research on taste and sensory perception; Hanni calls it neurogastronomic programming. Designed for neophytes, it asks just five questions, but Hanni plans to add a more advanced questionnaire for enthusiasts soon. The extended survey will help people understand how experiences affect or even overcome genetic predispositions, he says. A tolerant taster might love French pinot noirs, which by the book would be too thin and dull to appeal, because he spent his honeymoon touring Burgundy.
"The struggle is to take away the mystery of wine without taking the magic," MacLean says. "Tim's idea is a big step forward, because he is not just spouting the old cliches about 'Wine is for everyone.' There's methodology behind his theories."
As important as the science is Hanni's fervor for making wine easy, whatever it takes. He developed the first "progressive" wine list in 1985 for Murphy's restaurant in Atlanta, grouping bottles not by country but by styles such as "light and fruity" or "lush and full-bodied." He also developed and sells Vignon, a blend of salt and spices designed to help any food pair well with wine -- even asparagus and artichokes, which are notoriously difficult to match.
A recovering alcoholic, Hanni hasn't swallowed a sip of wine in 14 years, something he insists hasn't affected his ability to work with wine. In fact, he says it helps: "There are people who write me off as an idiot, because how could I know what I'm talking about if I don't taste? When I stopped drinking, I became an observer. What I do isn't dependent on tasting; it's dependent on observing and studying and researching why you like what you like, not trying to convince you that you should like what I like."
Some of his ideas might seem heretical, but Hanni, one of the first two Americans to obtain a master of wine designation, is careful to present his creations in a way that is welcoming to wine novices and unthreatening to the establishment. At 55, Hanni still has a bit of the hippie in him. His most common expression is "I'm having a blast." Every e-mail ends with his tag line: "Peace, Partnership and Prosperity." The message: It's only wine. Why can't we all get along?
So far, so good. Though the Budometer is still in its beta phase, it has had a warm reception. Wine writer Andrea Immer, enologist Richard Peterson and Copia's senior vice president of wine Peter Marks are fans. And once consumers comprehend exactly what Hanni is talking about (the shoe analogy helps), they, too, get excited about the prospect of being able to better navigate a wine list or simply trust their instincts.
Janice Iwama, a 24-year-old research analyst who attended the recent tasting, for example, was happy to learn that she fell into the sweet category, which explained her intense dislike for red wines. Taster Tom Broughan, a George Washington University law student, said that "having guidelines is helpful to focus my picks and get away from things I know I don't like." His previous strategy was to look for a brand he knew his father liked.
To be sure, some worry that the Budometer may be too confusing for people who just want a glass of wine after work. "Wine enthusiasts love it. But if it adds another layer of information or complexity on behalf of the casual consumer, it may not make it easier," says Mark Chandler, executive director of the Lodi Wine Grape Commission, where the competition is being held. "It's one more piece of information you have to know."
Then there are those who just don't want to find out that they lack taste buds: Karen McMullen, managing director of Washington Wine and Women, was disappointed that the Budometer pegged her as a tolerant taster, because she has always preferred the subtle French and Italian wines she learned to love while summering in Europe as a young woman.
Hanni, however, wasn't surprised at all. When he reviewed the selections she preferred at the tasting, he saw that despite her physiology, she did favor the delicate European wines. "The Budometer is geared for new wine drinkers," Hanni says. "Once you graduate intellectually to Karen's level, experience takes over."
If the Budometer takes off, any stigma could soon disappear. "You are what you are," says tolerant taster Natan. "I don't mind being tolerant. Isn't that a good thing?"
Windsor Star
March 8, 2008
By Ted Whipp
Wine writer Natalie MacLean reports in a recent e-mail newsletter a new video on serving wine that allows the viewer to click on the products and buy them from various sites.
"I think this will change the way we buy wine, glassware and all kinds of other products," she writes.
MacLean posted the link www.overlay.tv/overlay/228 for viewing. MacLean's website - www.nataliemaclean.com - offers information, her stories, resources and, of course, details about her book Red, White and Drunk All Over.
Wine Enthusiast Magazine
July 2007
By Gretchen Roberts
For such a mild-tasting fruit, the avocado has a racy reputation. In its native Central America, the avocado was an aphrodisiac, thanks to its pear shape and creamy flesh.
Avocados found their way to California in 1871, where about 90 percent of today’s U.S. crop is grown. The two most widely cultivated varieties you’re likely to find in the grocery store are Hass and Fuerte. Hass avocados have a pebbly skin that starts out green and ripens to purple-black, while Fuerte avocados are green with a smoother skin. The flavor difference is subtle: Hass avocados are smoother with more oil content, and Fuertes have more fiber. They’re interchangeable in recipes to all but the most discriminating advocates of one or the other.
U.S. avocados are available year-round, but not in volume supply during the off-season. The California harvest season is January through September, and imports are usually available August through February, says Jan DeLyser, vice president of marketing at the California Avocado Commission.
Since avocados don’t ripen on the tree, you have some flexibility in choosing the ripeness at the store, DeLyser says. “Everyone likes to poke and squeeze avocados with their fingertips, but don’t, because that will bruise it,” she says. “Instead, gently cradle it in the palm of your hand and squeeze with your palm and fingers. If the fruit yields, it’s ripe.”
Buy ripe avocados for immediate use, or store them in the fridge to stop ripening. If you’re purchasing a few days ahead of time, select an avocado that’s not quite ripe and let it sit on the countertop. To speed-ripen, put a few avocados in a paper bag with an apple at room temperature (apples give off ethylene gas, a ripening agent).
The easiest way to prepare an avocado is to cut it in half lengthwise around the seed, then twist the two halves to separate. Remove the seed with a small spoon, then slide a large spoon between the flesh and skin and scoop the flesh out.
Like apples, avocados turn brown when exposed to air, so cut them just before serving. A teaspoon of lemon or lime juice helps retain the green color, or you could try the technique suggested by an old wives’ tale: bury the pit in the guacamole to help retain color. “I know people who swear by this. It never hurts to try,” DeLyser says.
If the fruit isn’t familiar to you, test drive it with a big bowl of guacamole and chips. But avocado has many other uses, too. Its high fat content—the heart-healthy monounsaturated kind, which can lower the bad LDL cholesterol and maintain levels of the good HDL cholesterol—makes it versatile for slicing, dicing and smashing into various dishes.
“Most Americans discover avocados in Mexican restaurants, but there are so many ways to use them,” DeLyser says. “Avocados are appearing in all different types of cuisines.”
Nowhere is this truer than the addition of avocado to the Japanese sushi roll, says J. Cooney, the executive sushi chef at Nama Sushi Bar in Knoxville, Tennessee. “Avocados originated in Western-style sushi, not in Japan. Hence the California Roll.” At Nama, Cooney uses avocado for flavor, texture and decoration in creations like the Caterpillar Roll, made with eel, crab and cucumber, topped with avocado and drizzled with eel sauce. “We put avocados across the top to make the roll actually look like a little green caterpillar,” he says.
If eating a caterpillar look-alike isn’t your thing, try avocados in more traditional cuisine. They’re great in tortilla soup, in a Southwestern omelet with black beans, rice, corn and salsa, in BLT sandwiches and cubed in salads. Try them with anything that sets your mouth on fire, too. Because avocados are high in fat, they temper heat.
“Avocado is like sour cream in that it offsets spicy foods, so you get the flavor without the burn,” Cooney says.
Just don’t heat an avocado for more than a few minutes, since cooking turns the fruit bitter.
David Myers, Chef/owner of Sona, a Modern French fine dining restaurant in Los Angeles, likes to marinate raw fish and scallops in avocado oil, which is similar to olive oil but with its own distinctive taste and a higher smoking point. He also uses the oil to make an unusual vinaigrette with pine nuts and preserved green papaya.
“Avocado is great for dessert, too,” Myers says. “The fattiness of the avocado goes hand in hand with the richness of ice cream.” Myers didn’t make this one up: Indonesians and Brazilians are fond of avocado ice cream and sweet drinks.
When it comes to wine matching, avocado has a reputation as a difficult date. “My Web site visitors frequently ask me about avocados because they’re one of the toughest foods on wine,” says Natalie MacLean, author of Red, White, and Drunk All Over and publisher of a free e-newsletter at www.nataliemaclean.com. “I put them in a category I call ‘Green Wine Stalkers’ because their natural compounds don’t marry well with many wine styles.”
MacLean suggests pairing avocado dishes with zesty whites, such as New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc. “The mouth-watering acidity in the wine cuts through the sweetness and fattiness of the fruit. That’s why a non-vintage sparking wine or Pinot Grigio also works.”
Red wines are a tougher match, MacLean says, because the tannins in the wine can clash with the fruit’s high oil content. She likes to pair avocados with light, fruity reds such as Beaujolais and Pinot Noir.
If you’re sampling California rolls, try a Junmai-shu sake, which has full, rich body and higher acidity to compliment the creaminess and subtle flavor of avocado.
Here are three wine-friendly avocado recipes to use at your next summer get-together.
Californian Crab-Stuffed Avocado
The classic Chilean recipe Palta Reina (Royal Avocado) takes on a California twist with lemon-scented rice, crab and sweet corn. This salad is perfect for luncheon on a hot summer day. Serve with fresh fruit and crispy bread.
For the vinaigrette:
1/4 cup fresh lemon juice (from 2 lemons)
1/4 cup olive oil
1 small shallot, minced
1 teaspoon coarse salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
For the stuffed avocados:
1 cup uncooked medium-grain rice
2 cups chicken stock
1 garlic clove, minced
1 tablespoon butter
Zest of 2 lemons (about 1 tablespoon)
1/2 teaspoon salt
2 ears fresh sweet corn, husked and cleaned
4 cups mixed salad greens
2 medium ripe avocados
12 ounces cooked crab meat
1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro
To prepare the vinaigrette: Whisk all ingredients together in a small bowl.
To prepare stuffed avocados: Combine rice, chicken stock, garlic and butter in a small saucepan. Heat to boiling over medium-high heat; reduce heat to low and cover and simmer until liquid is absorbed, about 20 minutes. Remove rice from heat; stir in lemon zest and salt, and let cool.
Bring 2 quarts of water to a boil. Add corn; cook 5–7 minutes or until tender. Remove corn with tongs and cool. Using a sharp knife, cut kernels off the cob (about 1 cup of kernels).
Peel, seed, and halve avocados. Divide salad greens among four plates and top with avocado halves. Combine rice and corn; mound into avocado halves and top with crab meat. Drizzle each stuffed avocado with vinaigrette and sprinkle with cilantro. Serves 4.
Wine recommendation: A demi sec Vouvray such as the 2005 Chateau Moncontour Vouvray matches the sweetness of the corn and crab, but is acidic enough to stand up to the avocado. Or try a California sparkling wine like Roederer Non-Vintage Brut.
Avocado Butter
Use basic Avocado Butter as a spread or substitute for butter in sandwiches, on steamed vegetables, and in omelets. While avocado isn’t quite a blank slate for flavor, it’s a great starting base to add spices. Spread Cumin Avocado Butter on pitas; dollop Herbed Avocado Butter onto grilled salmon or chicken; use Garlic Avocado Butter on toasted baguette slices topped with tomato; and spread Cayenne Avocado Butter on corn on the cob.
If you like a little texture, mash by hand; if you prefer creamy, use a food processor or blender to purée. This recipe is great for using up very ripe avocados.
Basic recipe:
1 ripe avocado, peeled and pitted
1 scant tablespoon lemon or lime juice
1/2 teaspoon coarse salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
To prepare: Mash avocado with lemon or lime juice, salt, and pepper. Cover tightly and refrigerate or serve immediately. If desired, add any of the following:
1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1 teaspoon fresh minced oregano or thyme
1 tablespoon fresh minced parsley, basil, or cilantro
1 clove minced garlic
1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
Wine recommendation: La Vis Ritratti 2005 Pinot Grigio from Trentino is crisp but has balancing acidity, making it versatile for pairing with the Avocado Butter in its many forms.
Avocado, Tomato, and Spinach Crepes with Bacon and Pesto
These rich crepes are excellent with a crisp green salad. You can make the crepes and pesto ahead of time to make assembling easier.
For the crepes:
1 cup all-purpose flour
2 large eggs
1 1/4 cups milk
1/4 teaspoon salt
4 tablespoons butter (divided)
For the pesto
2 cups fresh basil leaves, packed
1/4 cup grated Romano or Parmesan cheese
1/4 cup pine nuts or walnuts
2 garlic cloves
1/2 cup olive oil
Salt and pepper to taste
For the filling:
6 strips bacon
1 large tomato, seeded and diced
4 cups fresh baby spinach
1¼4 cup finely chopped red onion
4 ounces smoked gouda or provolone,
shredded
1 large or 2 small avocados, diced
To prepare the crepes: Blend flour, eggs, milk, salt, and 2 tablespoons melted butter in a blender until smooth. Cover and refrigerate at least 30 minutes, or up to overnight, to allow air bubbles to escape. Gently stir batter.
Heat a 6- or 7-inch nonstick crepe pan or skillet over medium heat. Melt 1 teaspoon of butter in the pan. Ladle or pour 2 to 3 tablespoons of batter into the pan, tilting the pan to cover it completely. Cook the crepe until the edges begin to turn brown, about 1 minute. Turn crepe over and cook another 15 seconds.
Invert pan onto a plate and stack crepes. Repeat the cooking process, adding more butter as needed and adjusting the heat so the crepes don’t burn. If making crepes ahead of time, store in refrigerator between layers of wax paper up to two days or in the freezer up to two months. Reheat before using.
To prepare the pesto: Combine basil, cheese, pine nuts and garlic in a food processor or blender, stopping to push basil down until chopped thoroughly. With the motor running, add olive oil in a constant stream until thoroughly combined. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Makes 1 cup of pesto.
To prepare the filling: Cook bacon until crisp in a skillet; drain on paper towels and crumble. Drain bacon grease from skillet (don’t wipe out) and add tomato, spinach, and red onion. Cook and stir on medium heat until spinach is wilted and tomatoes are warm, about 4 minutes.
Remove skillet from heat and stir in bacon, cheese and avocados.
To assemble: Lay out crepes on the countertop. Spread about 2 teaspoons pesto on each crepe. Spoon equal amounts of filling on crepes and roll up. Place in a buttered 9 by 13 ovenproof dish and, if desired, heat in a 400 degree oven until warmed through (about 5 minutes).
Makes 12–16 crepes for 4 main dish servings or 8 appetizer servings.
Wine recommendation: A racy New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, like the Kim Crawford 2006 Sauvignon Blanc, will cut the fat in the avocado and lend balance to the rich crepes. Or try a dry rosé such as the Phélan Ségur 2005 Le Rosé, which enhances the tomato flavor.
Wine Enthusiast Magazine (2)
December 2008
By Janet Forman
Opening the door to a tart gust of pine and a knot of jubilant loved ones may be the peak winter holiday moment. But preparing for this season of recurring revelries from Thanksgiving through Kwanza, Chanukah, Christmas and New Year's takes some planning, especially when the format can range from cockails to dessert parties, family dinners to an intimate soiree for two, fundraising galas to impromptu gatherings after a snowball fight. So we've asked veteran hosts and wine professionals, who face the same dilemma, for tips on the best way to stock a home cellar for the busy weeks ahead.
"I like to do my own holiday cooking for our extended family and friends," says Dr. Jefery Levy, the lawyer turned film professor/screenwriter/director who has created avant-garde classics like Inside Monkey Zetteland. While he acknowledges that a '61 Latour is ideal for just about anything from his home-smoked turkeys to pizza,Jeff and his wife, Pamela Skiast, co-founder of Juicy Couture, fearlessly mix high-end wines with value offerings. "Without a doubt, the best way to do this is blind," warrants Levy, who gleefully recounts the night his wine club rated an '89 Petrus and an '86 Mouton far below a $40 Hungarian Kopar. "If you pick the years well," with wines similar in style and taste to the high-end bottles, Levy attests, you'll be amazed at what happens."
While wine experts enthusiastically endorse stretching a budget by serving high priced and value wines at the same get-together;the occasion and timeline may dictate which to serve first. At cocktail parties, Stephen Sterling, president of the Association of African-American Vintners, starts with high end sparklers then moves on to less expensive bottles. At dinners, however, he finds bringing out the "big guns" with the last few courses enhances the event's inherent drama." Both scenarios play on the psychological impact of recalling the first and last aspects of an experience," he notes. Sterling also suggests adding a dimension to holiday dinners by serving wines of different prices around a single theme, such as kosher wines, African American-made releases, wines from a single continent, or one varietal from different U.S. states.
Blackstone winemaker Garv Sitton mixes price points with an eye to his guests' wine knowledge. He starts less experienced drinkers with simpler, fruit forward bottles, presenting a higher-end wine with similar structure or flavors as a showpiece with the main course. Yet even when serving more complex, thoughtful wines to a group of winemakers, he doesn't hesitate to mix in a lower priced bottle with similar characteristics, since "all wine-drinkers, experienced or not, appreciate value," he affirms.
How much to buy? At standup events, most crowds average two glasses of wine per person during the first hour and one glass per hour thereafter, our experts agree, imbibing a bit more red than white. At dinner parties, guests usually consume one drink per course. Count 5 glasses per bottle and buy on the theory that leftovers will be put to good use. This is also the time for magnums and larger formats, which say,' "It's a special occasion, let's celebrate" Levy declares. And don't forget water and soft drinks for designated drivers.
In choosing a wine style, most experts favor lighter releases for standup events and heavier or more complicated bottles for sit down dinners. For cocktail parties, Eric Woods, co-owner of Harlem Vintage, suggests whites such as Gruner Veltliner, fruity Sauvignon Blancs and less oaky Chardonnays, as well as light reds like Pinot Noir, Rioja, or an approachable Chianti. For large parties, Deen Solebo, owner of New York's Bacchus wine shop, likes value crowd-pleasers such as Malbecs from Argentina, Cabernets from Chile, and Sauvignon Blancs from South Africa or New Zealand. Light, food-friendly rosés can work for both standup and sit down occasions, advises Blackstone's Sitton, who finds more choices as this style grows in popularity, both California releases and Grenache-based vintages from Spain and the Southern Rhine.
For hard-to-pair foods such as spicy dishes or Asian cuisine, try wine with a touch of residual sugar, suggests Ritz-Carlton Laguna Niguel sommelier April Bloom. She suggests an off-dry Loire Valley Chenin Blanc or a German Riesling. And if you have a feeling Aunt Mary will be bringing her beloved artichoke salad, pop onto the wine and food matcher developed by Natalie Maclean, author of Red" White and Drunk All Over (www.nataliemaclean.com/matcher), which demystifies pairings for even the trickiest dishes: she comes up with 9 wines for artichokes and 12 for asparagus.
Champagne, of course, goes with everything. While not everyone can afford Cristal, Sterling notes that Roederer, the Anderson Valley sibling of this high-end French company, produces a well-regarded NV brut and NV brut rosé at a fraction of the price. If you do have the budget for French, try the emerging class of grower-producer Champagne,suggests Brian Rosen, President of Sam's Wines and Spirits: look for 'RM'(Recoltant-Manipulateur) on the label.
When its time for dessert wines,Sterling suggests surprising guests with under-the-radar choices like Ficklin, made by former students of the Fresno State Enology program, and Meyer Family Port from Matt Meyer, son of Silver Oak co-founder Justin Meyer. And if the meal must end with Sauternes, Levy maintains that anything from 1983 is superb, even the less prominent labels.
For cocktails, Sam's Rosen advises first laying in gin and vodka, which work for the widest range of mixed drinks, then adding a versatile silver Tequila. Rosen also recommends stocking one Bourbon, one smoky Islay Scotch, and one un-smoked Highland Scotch. If you're investing in high-end bottles, X.O. Cognacs won't let you down, Solebo vows.
For those blissful evenings when you are the guest, a trophy bottle will always be appreciated-and remembered. Beyond the usual choices from Bordeaux, Burgundy, Piedmont, Tuscany and California, Woods suggests Spätlese Riesling, which ages beautifully and can become quite valuable.To Levy and Shiast,the holidays are the ideal time to show their appreciation for people they cherish by sourcing wines from the year of their birth. For last New Year's with the winemaking Coppola family, Levy spent months hunting down 1987s for the 2lst birthday of Francis's granddaughter, Gia. With the help of Christian Navarro, co-owner of L.A.'s Wally's wine shop, Levy found '87 Diamond Creek and Vega Sicilia magnums, and spent months rounding up every Guigal La La from 1987, which he presented with a rare '63 Grange to mark the birth year of Gias father.
Levy admits he sometimes spends an extraordinary amount of time seeking out the perfect wines for important occasions. He alerts sommeliers, favorite wine shops and haunts auctions such as Zachys, where auction director Michael Jessen helped him purchase two pristine cases of BV Reserve and two of Martini from 1958, the year he and many of his childhood buddies were born. "I'm making it a point to get together with every single friend turning 50 and drink one bottle of each," declares Levy, who aspires to finish all four cases by the end of the year. "In our egocentric world," he feels, "the true spirit of the holidays is devoting time and care to honoring your friends."
Wine Enthusiast Magazine (3)
March 2009
By Gretchen Roberts
You have the color-coded cheat sheet memorized: red wine with red meat and white wine with white meat. But what do you drink when your meal is sans meat altogether?
Though the Vegetarian Resource Group reports that only an estimated 2 to 3 percent of Americans are strictly vegetarian, another 30 to 40 percent are flexitarian, eating a veggie meal or two each week. Meat-free meals do have their advantages. For one, they're healthful. The American Dietetic Association says diets that include a variety of vegetarian foods tend to result in lower rates of heart disease, high blood pressure, type 2 diabetes and some forms of cancer. Vegetarians also tend to have lower body mass indexes and cholesterol levels.
Vegetarian meals are usually less expensive as well. Everyone knows a box of $.99 noodles will stretch the budget further than a filet mignon (leaving more money to spend on wine, of course).
Still, with all its benefits, vegetarian food seems to have a bad rap in the wine and foodie community. Some of my wine loving friends insist you can't possibly appreciate a Bordeaux or a Napa Cabernet without a slab of meat to accompany it, and that vegetarian food as a whole is impossibly bland and boring.
"There is no question that meat has a lot of flavor, but vegetarian food can be incredibly flavorful and scintillating and varied," says Didi Emmons, author of Entertaining for a Veggie Planet. "It's easy to be a
good meat chef, and a lot harder to be a good vegetarian chef." The reason,she says, is that vegetarian cooking has to go beyond substituting tofu for meat. "You have to be really curious about other cultures. There's so much to learn from Pakistani, Indonesian, Malaysian, South Indian and Mexican vegetarian cooking."
Emmons recommends looking to classic vegetarian cookbooks and vegetarian recipes from great chefs like Alice Waters and Richard Olney for inspiration. "Don't go to a restaurant to get to know vegetarian food. Go to a bookstore and then get in the kitchen."
Once you've emerged from the kitchen, however, the question remains: what wines are best? A few rules of thumb are in order.
In the opinion of Natalie Maclean, sommelier and editor of a free,award-winning newsletter at nataliemaclean.com white wines generally work better with vegetables because they only have tiny amounts of tannins,but light reds like Pinot Noir and Gamay also work because they have softer tannins and juicy berry flavors. Big red wines like Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon usually end up fighting with veggies, because their tannins clash with the natural compounds and flavors in vegetables and their heft overwhelms delicate dishes.
Maclean says it’s important to harmonize the flavor, texture and weight of the dish with the wine. For example, she says," green food and green wines often go well together, so veggies dance with wines that have herbal, grassy aromas like New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc."
When considering texture, also match like with like. A crisp, zippy Riesling would go well with lighter dishes like steamed vegetables, while a heavier. Creamier Chardonnay might pair with a buttery cheese.
For weight, there are two theories, both of which work equally well. Either cut a rich dish with a light wine and vice versa, or match rich with rich and light with light. A creamy quiche would pair well with either a zingy Pinot Grigio or a rich Viognier.
At Greens Restaurant, a pioneering vegetarian restaurant in San Francisco, wine director Mike Hale says they offer a lot of white wine on the list, but they sell more red than white. "We tend to go with Rhone varietals, Pinot Noir and lighter-style wines," he says. "We try not to offer inappropriately tannic wine that needs 20 years to lie down. We don't discriminate against big, tannic wines; they're just not our main focus here,"
Hale recommends rosé as a versatile wine for vegetarian dishes. "Even in the wintertime, it’s very appropriate with a lot of our food." Hale also likes Italian wines because the high acidity is a perfect complement to vegetarian food.
Still, there are always customers who simply order what they like, whether or not its the "right match for the dish. "Wine is just another element of the meal here," he explains". We don't put it on a pedestal."
Wine Goddess
July 03, 2007
By Debbie Miller Nelson
I love handy little tools to help you make decisions when it comes to food and wine pairing. Natalie MacLean, author of the recent book Red, White and Drunk All Over: A Wine-Soaked Journey from Grape to Glass has been delighting us with her Nat Decants newsletter (a Wine Goddess favorite link).
In her new wine and food matcher, if you choose to start with the food list to find a wine, you first select a course like appetizer or dessert and then choose from a wide array of choices in each category. To test this out, I selected dessert and cheesecake. Natalie recommends Marsala, Vintage Port, Semillon Botrytised/Sauternes, Sherry Oloroso, Gewurztraminer Late Harvest or Semillon. You can also get recipes here.
You can also start with the wine. Red, white, rose, etc... I selected red and then Barbaresco (from yesterday's posting). Natalie suggests a wide array of choices from various cheeses such as cheddar and fontina to pizza, lasagna, beef Wellington, venison and truffles. The lists are quite huge - much bigger than other food and wine pairing tools I have come across.
Make sure you save this as a favorite!
Wine News Review
September 10, 2007
By Sam Meddis
Lucky for me, Red, White and Drunk All Over by Natalie MacLean was one of the first books I picked up when I started thinking about doing a wine blog.
For MacLean, writing about wine is not an academic exercise, a parsing of the chemical responses upon the tongue, a conjugation of fruit groups or a diagram of geographical factors. Important though they are to figuring out how and why certain flavors and aromas play out on the senses, those elements alone are a flat description of a particular wine’s character.
As MacLean explains in the chapter “The Making of a Wine Lover,” what really counts — what adds depth to the description — is “the way a glass of wine makes me feel.” Like the liveliness that infuses a thirst-quenching vintage, the book’s sensual dimension makes the act of learning and writing about wine seem like great fun to a would-be blogger.
The book was encouraging in a couple other ways, too.
First of all, there’s MacLean’s confidence-enhancing personal story — how one of today’s superstars in the field stumbled her way through an introductory tasting course but would eventually learn enough to securely hold her own in the presence of the fiercely opinionated French wine figure Lalou Bize-Leroy, known as “La Tigresse,” who makes it a point to openly scoff at wine writers.
Last but not least is the example MacLean set in launching her own website, Nat Decants, and thereby demonstrating what a perfect match wine and the Internet make. The site features regularly updated wine picks, instructive articles, access to a monthly free electronic newsletter (with 87,000 subscribers) and a Wine & Food Matcher boasting a database of 360,000 wine-food pairings.
Thanks to the Web, it has never been easier to become knowledgeable about wine and to connect with others who share an interest in it, as MacLean notes in her book.
This article itself is proof of the Web’s connection-building power. Imagine my surprise when, out of the blue, I got an e-mail message from MacLean thanking me for quoting her review of a Babich sauvignon blanc in one of my posts. Like any self-respecting blogger, I immediately asked her for an interview, to help flesh out some of the thoughts from her book about the relationship between the Web and the world of wine.
Here’s our e-mail Q&A:
VTK: What’s been the Web’s main impact on the wine consumer and producer?
NM: The web has helped to democratize wine: There’s so much information online that anyone anywhere can learn about it. It’s also helped wine lovers who share a passion to “meet” through chat groups, forums and blogs.
VTK: How has it affected your work and personal discoveries about wine?
NM: The Internet helps tremendously when I’m researching an obscure subject. As well, I often ask the subscribers to my free e-newsletter for their help.
VTK: With so many brands, varieties and vintages available through the Internet, it may at times feel a little bewildering for the average consumer. What should they do to make the best choices and take full advantage of all the information out there?
NM: I think that consumers still need to find someone to trust as their guide. Just as they might follow a particular columnist in their local paper, they might also try finding a website or blogger whose taste they share.
VTK: Why did you decide to create a website?
NM: To connect more immediately with my readers in a way I can’t do through print. They hit reply and instantly let me know what they think of what I’ve written.
VTK: What’s been your experience so far, in terms of audience engagement, personal satisfaction and other return for the time and effort? Any anecdotes you can share?
NM: There’s nothing more satisfying than being connected online with my readers. Writing is a lonely job and they often sustain me through their comments and e-mails. One particular note stands out: A gentleman who is blind in Chicago subscribes to my newsletter. His computer reads it aloud to him. He’s hoping to become a sommelier.
VTK: What wine-related sites are your favorites?
NM: I like wine-searcher.com for finding wines and their prices. I also enjoy following the stories and blog of the New York Times columnist Eric Asimov at nytimes.com.
Wine Tales
November 30, 2009
By Jo Diaz
Many wine writers also have a day job. If wine isn’t your job, what is and for whom?
[Natalie] Before I started writing about wine, I was in high tech marketing for a California-based supercomputer company. I’d probably be doing that or anything to do with writing.
When did you start writing about wine?
[Natalie] Although I had taken a sommelier course for fun, the thought of writing about my hobby didn’t occur to me until I hadn’t slept soundly for three weeks. Shortly after our son Rian was born in November 1998, my life took on a biological beat: feed the baby, change a diaper, eat, change another diaper, sleep for twenty minutes (Rian, not me), cry for ten minutes (me, not Rian). I felt my brain starting to atrophy. One day, at the local grocery check-out, I picked up the store’s food magazine. Through my haze of post-partum sleep deprivation, I saw that it was beautifully illustrated and packed with recipes, but contained no information about wine.
Back home, I called the magazine’s editor to ask if she’d be interested in an article about wine on the web. I figured that I knew just enough about both areas to say something intelligent. She asked if I had been published before, and I said yes (praying that she wouldn’t ask me to send samples from my high school newspaper). Luckily, she didn’t; instead she assigned me a half-page article due in two weeks. I struggled to write that article more than I labored with the pregnancy since I was now operating on about six brain cells. But the editor was pleased with the result and gave me another assignment.
Now that I could say that I was a published wine writer, I developed enough confidence to call other editors. But I was still filled with self-doubt: most other wine writers had twenty or more years of experience, which counts for a lot with such an encyclopedic topic. Despite this, or perhaps because of a very fresh perspective, I started to get assignments from newspapers and magazines. I couldn’t believe that people would actually pay me to write-and in a sense, pay me to drink. I still feel that wonder and pleasure.
What prompted you to start writing about wine?
[Natalie] Six months later, when my maternity leave was over, I decided not to return to high tech, even though I had loved my work there. Writing about wine was irresistible: it was part of an industry that was all about enjoyment and people who were passionate about what they created. Plus, I could set my own hours, work at home and be there for Rian.
What aspect(s) of wine do you most enjoy covering?
[Natalie] About two years ago, friends in other cities who don’t get local publications for which I was writing would ask me to e-mail the articles to them. Then I thought, “Hmm, if I’m doing it for them, I may as well actively market the effort and I started my newsletter with about 200 wine nuts here in Ottawa and in other cities. I send out my published articles after they’re off the newsstands (and I retain the copyright) or sometimes I write original articles for the newsletter. There are now more than 100,000 wine lovers in 36 countries who read my weekly e-newsletter — and it’s free! Anyone can sign up at my site www.NatalieMacLean.com.
How has your job changed since you’ve started?
[Natalie] The Internet. Word-of-mouth is a phenomenal thing on the Internet (a sign-up seems to come through on e-mail every few minutes – no exaggeration) and it’s interesting to see how pockets of people in different cities around the world circulate it. For instance, I’ll get a group of folks from an Australian wine tasting club all subscribing in succession. one gentleman, who is blind but wants to become a sommelier in the US, says mine is the only wine publication he can read because his specially-equipped computer reads it aloud to him. I get such a wide and varied background of people subscribing: the storm water reservoir manager in Tulsa, somebody from the IRS, customs inspectors, the emergency night nurse in Saskatoon. and on and on.
What’s the most memorable wine you’ve ever tasted?
[Natalie] Domaine Romanee-Contee 1956 with Aubert de Villaine in his cellar in Burgundy
What’s your favorite variety?
[Natalie] Pinot Noir
Do you believe that there are better quality, lower priced wines today, than in past vintages?
[Natalie] Absolutely: technology and knowledge of local soils/climate and the grapes suited t them have driven this.
What’s your favorite innovation in the wine industry over the past few years?
[Natalie] Screwcaps
What’s your favorite food and wine pairing?
[Natalie] Champagne and potato chips! You really can drink wine with just about anything. Zinfandel with your Tex-Mex? Not a problem. A little Chardonnay with your fried chicken take-out? Delicious. Pinot Noir and wild boar? Why not! That’s why I created a Drinks Matcher widget, a portable version of my site’s existing food-and-wine pairing tool. You can download the free Drinks Matcher widget in just three clicks to your computer desktop, web site, blog or social media page like Facebook, MySpace or iGoogle from www.nataliemaclean.com/matcher.
The variety of food-and-drink combinations has exploded in the last five years. Chicken isn’t just chicken anymore: Now we eat it stuffed with pancetta and fresh herbs, rubbed with curry spices or sautéed in an orange balsamic sauce. We’re looking for more interesting flavours, both on the plate and in the glass—and we want them to work together.
During the eight years that I spent testing the combinations for her Drinks Matcher, I found two extremes when it comes to food and wine pairing: Some people say that it’s complete nonsense, while others insist that there’s only one perfect match for every wine. Neither approach helps wine lovers.
People want some guidance, even though the pairings are subjective. It all comes down to balancing flavours and textures. I’m a thoroughly hedonistic researcher. Of the thousands of combinations I tried, some were delicious, others were a disaster. I share the ones that worked in the Drinks Matcher. I also created a mobile application works on iPhone, BlackBerry and other smartphones (www.nataliemaclean.com/mobilematch).
What are your interests outside of the wine business?
[Natalie] None, wine fulfills me in every way :) Okay: my family, reading and travel.
Who inspires you (wine business or outside of it, doesn’t matter)?
[Natalie] My mother: a blend of courage, optimism and kindness
Winnipeg Free Press
December 26, 2007
By Judy Creighton
From the science of molecular gastronomy to eating local, consumers can expect these food-related trends to be cooking on the front burner in 2008.
Created in the science lab-style kitchens of Spain's chef Ferran Adria and England's Heston Blumenthal, the techniques of using equipment from scientific labs for culinary experimentation are filtering into private homes, made possible with kits developed by Vancouver chefs and chocolatiers Dominique and Cindy Duby.
These products give home cooks what they need to get new tastes and textures at home.
"Like fusion cooking, there will be a few chefs who will do molecular gastronomy very well and make it interesting," says Bonnie Stern, Toronto cooking school owner and cookbook author. On the side, she continues to track trends in Canada and internationally.
Eating local, or what has been coined as The 100-Mile Diet by authors James McKinnon and Alisa Smith of Vancouver, isn't going away, says Dana McCauley, a Toronto chef whose Top Line Trends business develops recipes and products for food companies.
"I think people concerned about the environment and the effect of trucking imported produce thousands of kilometres are trying to choose foods grown closer to home," she says. However, she agrees that in the winter months it can be daunting as so many fruits and vegetables aren't locally grown, but imported.
"But the eating local trend is fuelling interest in vegetables like kale, which is now becoming the No. 1 vegetable for its super amounts of nutrients," she says. "It's popping up everywhere in my research of chef's newsletters, magazines and newspapers as the vegetable for 2008."
Well, kale may be available later in the fall season, but by Christmas it, too, has to be imported from the southern United States.
Stern says kale isn't the only green vegetable catching on with health-conscious shoppers.
"What about Swiss chard, bok choy and rapini? All the really dark greens are popular," she says. "People are sick of broccoli and they are looking at alternative greens."
Stern notes that among more creative chefs, using all the parts of an animal is becoming a trend.
"So they are doing dishes using tongue, veal, duck gizzards, sweetbreads and liver, all the things on their menu that we haven't seen in a while."
Stern says she's noticing that "everybody seems to be cooking pork and that's because they are able to source heirloom breeds like Berkshire from Canadian pork producers devoting some of their business to these prized hogs."
As a result, restaurant goers can expect to find charcuterie platters which are chefs' homemade sausages, cold cuts, pates and rillettes, especially in tonier eateries.
Both Stern and McCauley say cheese platters containing Canadian and imported cheeses are becoming an absolute mainstay for entertaining. Busy hosts can put together a wine and cheese presentation when they entertain and with so much variety, quality and ease of preparation, they can have a winning combination.
Soon to be seen by shoppers in supermarkets are the integration of customized video and touch-screen communications into their food-buying trip.
"And as iPod and cellphone components become part of marketing plans, the line between actual and virtual contact becomes a little more blurry," says McCauley.
"Captive Channel, a point-of-purchase TV marketing solution, is catching on quickly and may change the shopping landscape into an entertaining and learning-filled field."
Watch next year for a new flavour that is coming on strong. Umami has been dubbed "the fifth taste," according to The Wall Street Journal.
Umami has been well known in parts of Asia for nearly 100 years. Foods with the umami taste have a high level of glutamate, an amino acid and a building block of protein. It is usually defined as a meaty, savoury, satisfying taste. And it can be found naturally in Parmesan cheese.
To wash all these vittles down, Natalie MacLean, who publishes an online e-newletter on wines, says the types of wines that will continue to grow most quickly are Pinot Grigio, Riesling and rosé.
"Canadians are looking for wines that are delicious but not too alcoholic. I now recommend these three wines most frequently because they're so versatile."
veggies to watch in 2008
With vegetables like kale emerging as the health-giving wonderkid for the future, it is important to know why.
It's a member of the brassica family, which includes cabbage, mustard, broccoli and cauliflower, and it's the organosulfur compounds in this food that have been the main subject of phytonutrient research.
Kale is considered to be one of the most highly nutritious vegetables with powerful antioxidant properties and is anti-inflammatory. It is also high in beta carotene, vitamins K, A, C, lutein and reasonably rich in calcium.
Want to get some of that goodness in your meals? Here are recipes containing kale.
Leafy Green Strudel
30 ml (2 tbsp) olive oil
1 sweet onion, thinly sliced
2 cloves garlic, minced
15 ml (1 tbsp) lemon zest
2 ml (1/2 tsp) each salt and pepper
15 ml (1 tbsp) mustard seeds
3 l (12 cups) leafy greens (mixture of kale, collard greens and Swiss chard), trimmed and roughly chopped
125 ml (1/2 cup) pecans, chopped and toasted
1 pkg puff pastry, thawed
1 egg, lightly beaten
5 ml (1 tsp) coarse salt
In a skillet over medium-high heat, heat oil. Add onion and garlic; saute until softened. Add lemon zest, salt, pepper and mustard seeds; cook for 1 minute. Stir in greens; cover and cook until softened, about 7 minutes. Remove from heat; stir in pecans.
Roll out pastry to 30-by-23-cm (12-by-9-inch) rectangle; spread leafy green mixture along centre. Along one long side of pastry, make diagonal cuts almost to filling, 2.5 cm (1 inch) apart; repeat on other side.
Alternating strips, fold pastry over filling to form braid, brushing with egg to secure. Brush entire top of strudel with egg; sprinkle with salt.
Transfer strudel to parchment-lined baking sheet; bake in a 230 C (450 F) oven until pastry is golden, about 20 minutes. Let cool slightly.
Makes 8 servings.
Wine match: New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc.
Source: www.gosouthfresh.com
Basmati Rice with Kale
125 ml (1/2 cup) basmati rice
15 ml (1 tbsp) curry powder
500 g (1 lb) kale, tough stems removed and kale blanched
250 g (1/2 lb) butternut squash, seeded, peeled and cut in 2-cm (3/4-inch) pieces
50 ml (1/4 cup) raisins
250 ml (1 cup) reduced-fat coconut milk
175 ml (3/4 cup) water
5 ml (1 tsp) salt
Heat 30-cm (12-inch) non-stick skillet over medium-low heat. Add rice. Toast, stirring frequently, until lightly browned, about 3 minutes. Add curry powder. Cook, stirring, for 1 minute.
Add kale, squash, raisins, coconut milk, water and salt to skillet. Cover and simmer until liquid is absorbed and rice and squash are tender, about 12 minutes. Remove from heat. Let stand, covered, for 5 minutes.
Makes 6 servings.
Nutrients per serving: 143 calories, 4 g protein, 29 g carbohydrates, 3 g fat, 1 g saturated fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 3 g fibre, 420 mg sodium.
Wine match: Medium-dry Riesling.
Source: Vegetables For Vitality by Reader's Digest Canada.
Salmon on a Bed of Greens
50 ml (1/4 cup) grapefruit juice
22 ml (1 1/2 tbsp) mustard
22 ml (1 1/2 tbsp) honey
1 ml (1/4 tsp) red pepper flakes
4 salmon fillets (165 g/6 oz) each
750 g (1 1/2 lb) kale, large stems removed and leaves chopped
45 ml (3 tbsp) olive oil
1/2 red bell pepper, seeded and finely chopped
1/2 yellow pepper, seeded and finely chopped
In a baking dish large enough to hold fish fillets in single layer, combine grapefruit juice, mustard, honey and pepper flakes. Add salmon to dish, turning to coat both sides with marinade. Refrigerate, covered, for 30 minutes.
Preheat broiler.
In a large pot, bring 2 l (8 cups) of water to a boil. Add kale. Return water to boil and cook for 5 minutes. Drain well. Squeeze out excess water.
In a large skillet over medium heat, heat olive oil. Add red and yellow bell peppers. Saute for 1 minute. Add kale. Saute until peppers and kale are tender, about 3 minutes. Remove skillet from heat and keep warm.
Remove salmon from marinade. Place, skin side down, on rack in foil-lined broiler pan.
Reserve marinade.
Broil salmon 10 cm (4 inches) from heat for 3 minutes. Brush on remaining marinade. Broil until fish is opaque and flakes when touched with a knife, 3 to 4 minutes. (If fish begins to brown too much, drop to lower rack in broiler.)
Serve salmon on a bed of kale and peppers.
Makes 4 servings.
Nutrients per serving: 402 calories, 41 g protein, 21 g carbohydrates, 18 g fat, 3 g saturated fat, 97 mg cholesterol, 3 g fibre, 233 mg sodium.
Wine match: Medium Dry Riesling.
Source: Vegetables For Vitality by Reader's Digest Canada.
Wino Magazine
March 10, 2009
By Doug Haugen
Right now, hanging out on my wine rack, I have a bottle of 2007 Syncline Mourvedre from the Coyote Canyon Vineyard in Horse Heaven Hills, and it’s just begging to be opened. I loved last year’s vintage, so I can’t wait to get at the newest. At the recommendation of Peter Moore from Poco Wine Room, though, it’s going to get even better if I give it a month to open up a bit (it’s still just a baby), so I’ve been sitting on it for about three weeks, going crazy all the while.
With all this anticipation, maybe I should pick just the right food to pair with it. Hmmm…
Enter Natalie MacLean and her new widget, the Drinks Matcher. According to MacLean, she spent eight years testing combinations of food and drinks, and developed a philosophy that while some say pairing dosn’t matter and others say there’s one perfect pairing for each food or drink, both extreme viewpoints fail to help wine lovers. She admits that pairing is subjective, but offers guidance through her gizmo based on her own hedonistic research.
To test it out, I searched for Mourvedre, glancing longingly at my Syncline. What was the perfect match? Paella, anything with a bologneses sauce, Spanish dishes or…kangaroo. Yes, Kangaroo. Now, I’ve never had kangaroo, and I’m as open-minded as the next guy, but I suspect it’ll be hard to find kangaroo at my local Safeway. (I still remember the hubbub over Jack In The Box serving kangaroo meat instead of beef in the early ’90s, though it’s been debunked.)
Still, the Drinks Matcher widget might prove to be a useful tool. If you use Yahoo! Widgets, you can install Drinks Matcher to use right from your computer. Or, you can just go to MacLean’s website and use it online, and even post the widget on damn-near any social media site ever invented.
MacLean says that the “Drinks Matcher is meant to be a springboard to help you discover the matches you prefer. The perfect pairing, of course, is between you and the wine you like.” I applaud her acknowledgement of subjectivity. After all, we’ve all experienced the Oreos-and-Coke phenomenon–two great things that are horrible together, but enjoyable just the same because we love each of them. To each his own…
Give the widget a try. The alternative is spending the next eight delicious years developing your own.
WNBC New York
April 29, 2008
By Beth Blair
Natalie MacLean is the author of the book Red, White and Drunk All Over. It doesn’t matter if you are new to the wine world or a seasoned wine drinker, you will likely enjoy Natalie’s entertaining book that takes readers on a fun journey “from grape to glass.” If you would like to learn more about wine, sign up for Natalie’s free newsletter Nat Decants.
1. You travel throughout your fabulous book Red, White and Drunk All Over as a sommelier experiencing the world of wine. Have you always been a traveler?
Yes, I’ve always loved travel, something I inherited from my mother. As a child, we’d travel together every March break and summer vacation. She was a school teacher, and single parent, so we’d use our holidays to visit various places across North America and other countries.
2. How do you keep in touch with your son while you are on the road, especially with time changes?
I didn’t travel much until he turned four. Since then, in the last five years, I’ve taken two major trips a year and we keep in touch by phone and e-mail. (He now writes his own e-mails to me.) While I was away, my husband would show our son where on the globe I was and he’d get a kick out of asking me if I’d eaten breakfast yet and what time was it and were there many toy stores in the area.
3. Do you have any advice for other moms who travel for work?
I think it’s ideal when you can blend working from home, which is what I do most of the time when I’m writing, and occasional travel when your children are young. Even though I miss my son and husband when I’m away, it’s also a wonderful way to reinvigorate my own sense of self and independence, and then to come home to them refreshed.
4. What is your favorite family destination? How about romantic?
My favorite family destination is Turks and Caicos: beautiful beaches, warm, not too crowded. It has everything we want: quiet spaces to read and relax, and a pool and beach for my son Rian (plus an endless supply of chicken nuggets).
For most romantic, I think of particular restaurants rather than cities because for me, romance is linked to great food and wine. So I recall the wonderful, romantic meals I’ve shared with my husband in Napa, New York and our own backyard with the barbecue.
5. Finally, all four of us Traveling Mamas love wine so we have to ask, what is your favorite wine to drink when just hanging out with the girls?
I love wines that aren’t too alcoholic so that you can sip on a few glasses over the evening without getting tanked. German riesling and Oregon pinot noir are among my favorites in this style: great conversation wine.
WRAL
May 9, 2008
By J.M. Hirsch
WRAL in Raleigh Durham published the same story as the The Associated Press.
Yahoo News
By Judi Creighton
A bucket of Kentucky Fried Chicken suits Natalie MacLean just fine, thank you. It creates a challenge to do what she does best — pairing wines with food.
This internationally renowned wine aficionado and expert admits without abashment that she can't cook.
"But I've learned how to compensate for my lack of cooking skills by matching wines with every kind of meal, including fast food," says MacLean.
She and her family indulge in all sorts of ready prepared foods from dining out, takeout, TV dinners and deli stuff to canned beans and "even our son's mac and cheese, which by the way goes beautifully with a Chilean Chardonnay."
MacLean calls this pairing of wines with fast foods "shabby chic or like putting rhinestones on your jeans."
She stresses that the more important principle for her is that wine can go with all sorts of dishes.
"We don't have the wine culture that Europe does where they match wine with simple dishes, rustic dishes and everyday food," she points out. "We tend to think of wine as just for fancy meals and special occasions, but it is not."
"The same food-and wine-matching principles that you use for those fancy dishes can be applied to very basic fast food. It's about texture, weight and flavour. You are either complementing or contrasting."
So what would she drink with KFC?
"This a rich fatty dish, so to cut through the fat of the fried chicken you could choose a zippy off-dry Riesling," MacLean suggests. "Or a nice rich buttery Chardonnay from Chile or California because the fatness of the dish is going to marry with the fatness of the wine."
When sending out for Chinese food with its sweet and sour nuances, choose a wine that can handle both, she says.
"My favourite is off-dry Riesling from either Canada or Germany because it has a touch of sweetness, but it also has the acidity to go with the sour element in Asian cuisine."
And she adds that any wine that is bone dry is going to taste bitter with Chinese food.
With Indian food, it is very much the same principle, says MacLean because of the spiciness and "I would go with the low-alcohol white sparklers which have a little sweetness."
For wine drinkers who prefer reds over white "make sure you are choosing one that is not high in alcohol or tannins when eating spicy foods," she says.
"Go with fruity low-tannin reds like Pinot Noir, Beaujolais, Gamay or even Zinfandel."
Finally, MacLean deals with one of the most commonly ordered-in fast food - pizza.
"Pizza is easy," she says. "It is a classic match with Italian wines because two of the dominant elements are the cheese and tomato, so a lot of Italian reds have a good amount of mouth-watering acidity."
"That acidity cuts through the cheese and also matches the acidity in the tomatoes, so varieties such as Barberas and Chianti are wicked with pizza."
To assist wine drinkers, MacLean offers a free interactive matching tool on her website www.nataliemaclean.com/matcher.
"I believe that the old rules about white wine with white meat and red wine with red meat just don't give enough guidance any more."
Young Winos of Los Angeles
May 4, 2008
By Jesse Porter
I just finished a chapter in Red, White and Drunk all Over in which the author Natalie MacLean examines the “purely American phenomenon” of wine scores. Hugely interesting stuff, and very relevant to us Winos; the vast majority of us, I would hazard a guess, are influenced by those 100-point-scale ratings that we see taped up next to displays of wine in stores.
Charged with a mandate to buy something relatively obscure (a bottle of Pinot Noir from Chile, lets say), and discovering two similarly-priced bottles at your local wine shop — both with positive reviews but one featuring a 92-point designation as well — who among us wouldn’t err on the side of critical approval and go for the numbered bottle? This inclination, though, raises some important questions: which critic was it? Is his/her taste similar to your own? Do you know? Do you even care… or is a “good” number from some expert simply enough?
The 100-point scale has been around for a while, but the critic who really brought it to the forefront of American wine consumer culture was Robert Parker. According to Natalie MacLean: “few topics provoke more controversy than [Parker’s] 100-point scale. Retailers refer to the ‘Parker effect’: a wine he scores above 90 can’t be bought (because demand for it is so high), and one below 80 can’t be sold because drinkers think it’s inferior).”
She describes the distaste that many Europeans have for the 100-point score, citing the example of British wine critic Hugh Johnson, who “refuses to rate wines at all. ‘It’s a very useful shortcut for people who don’t want to make up their own minds or become involved, or even bother to read tasting notes,’ he writes. ‘The idea that you can score quality is fundamentally strange… I’ve never seen it tried on works of art.’”
Natalie’s personal summation? “I didn’t score wines for the first five years I wrote about them. But… I eventually responded to readers who wanted them. Many people buy their wine as they do their toothpaste: they want to make a quick decision, but a good one (or at least, a safe one). A good score may give novice drinkers the confidence to make that precipitous leap from bladder-box swill to bottled poetry. So I’m conflicted: while I agree that the essence of wine can never be trapped in a number, I do want as many people as possible to experience the pleasure of wine. If that means using a tool they can relate to, so be it.”
The official position of the Young Winos of LA on the 100-point is currently under consideration. My personal inclination is to agree with Hugh-J above; you don’t score art on a 100-point scale, so why score something similarly expressive and subjective, like wine? However, the Young Winos remains a populist organization, and in that spirit we’ll embrace the sentiment that Ms. MacLean displays in her commentary. At least for this week, we’ll use those goddamn scores, and we’ll use them good.
Not only that, but we’ll take it a step further by injecting a healthy dose of value into the proceedings. This week, please bring any wine you want, purchased for less than 20 dollars, which received a score of 90 or higher in some kind of wine publication. I’m leaving that last part pretty open, because I don’t want us to feel like our only choices are Wine Spectator, Wine and Spirits, Stephen Tanzer, or Robert Parker and his Wine Advocate magazine. (True, you’ll see these names more often than any others on the shelf next to the bottles, but that’s not to say you won’t see others.) There are lots of critics out there using the 100-point scale, and if you’re open-minded about it, you might just find one whose taste matches your own. How convenient would that be? You’d never have to think at all.
So when you show up to the meeting, bring not only your bottle, but also the score, the source, and some tasting notes. The latter won’t be a problem — any time a wine is rated by anyone, tasting notes are also given, and you’ll generally be able to find these somewhere online (wineries’ websites often feature such accolades). Trust me, this isn’t the easiest assignment in the world — remember that “Parker effect,” which suggests that wines rated 90 or higher by him, and likely by just about anyone, will be more expensive. (My suggestion is to perhaps focus your search on burgeoning regions where the price-points haven’t quite caught up to the critical acclaim just yet. Spain’s a good one, South America has promise, and even Australia and New Zealand still feature values.)
More notes on scoring wines here.
Zee News
February 13, 2008
By Leslie Gevirtz
The Zee News of India published the same story as Reuters.
