{"id":455,"date":"2011-03-14T15:16:10","date_gmt":"2011-03-14T15:16:10","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.nataliemaclean.com\/wineblog\/?p=455"},"modified":"2013-02-28T14:19:36","modified_gmt":"2013-02-28T19:19:36","slug":"food-wine-4","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.nataliemaclean.com\/blog\/food-wine-4\/","title":{"rendered":"Food &#038; Wine 4"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><img decoding=\"async\" alt=\"\" src=\"http:\/\/www.nataliemaclean.com\/admin\/book1\/storage\/interview_81.jpg\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Why did the chicken flee screaming across the road? It might&#8217;ve been escaping the dinner-party host trying to fry him and serve him with, yawn, a bottle of chardonnay.<\/p>\n<p>Matching vino and vittles for your next bash doesn&#8217;t have to be a &#8220;Wine for Dummies&#8221; affair relying on tried-and-tired combos (steak with Merlot, fish and Pinot Grigio). But combining tidbits that are supposedly wine-averse \u2014 Indian take-out, chips, breakfast \u2014 might mean you&#8217;ll uncork some interesting bottles.<\/p>\n<p>&#8220;In Europe, wine culture is quite developed, so it\u2019s common and easy to simply pair white with fish or things like that,&#8221; says New York wine writer Tyler Colman, who blogs at DrVino.com. &#8220;In America, our cuisine is quite different. We&#8217;ve created things that are harder to match.&#8221;<\/p>\n<p>Colman even posts seemingly impossible wine foods \u2014 falafel sandwiches, chili con carne \u2014 on his site and lets oenophile readers duke it out over what&#8217;d go best. (Consensus? A medium-bodied white for the former; a red or sparkler for the latter.)<\/p>\n<p>There are as many ideas about which foods to eat with which wines as there are expensive B&amp;Bs in Napa. But it helps to keep a few rules in mind when pairing non-trad dishes with fruits of the vineyards. &#8220;The most important thing is the weight and intensity of the dish,&#8221; says Andrew Stover, sommelier at Oya (777 9th St. NW). &#8220;It&#8217;s best to match full-bodied wines with full-bodied cuisine or vice versa.&#8221;<\/p>\n<p>At the restaurant, Stover serves sushi (nope, it&#8217;s not just for sake anymore) with either dry or semi-dry crisp whites like Austrian Gruner Veltliner or Spanish Xarmant Txakolina 2006, a lip-smacking Basque treat. The idea is to not overpower the variety of tastes in the rolls \u2014 sticky rice, salty salmon, maybe spicy mayo.<\/p>\n<p>Using wine to counterbalance food&#8217;s flavors can result in such surprising buffet bedfellows as salty potato chips and dry champagne. &#8220;That swarm of bubbles refreshes your palate and makes the next chip taste good,&#8221; says Natalie MacLean, a Canadian sommelier and author of <i>Red, White and Drunk All Over<\/i>. &#8220;It really varies the tastes and flavors.&#8221;<\/p>\n<p>Sweet dessert wines, while usually partnered with creme brulees and plum tarts, can also cut through the richness of red meat or charcuterie. &#8220;I had a breakfast party where we served sausages with sauternes [syrupy sweet French dessert wine],&#8221; says Sebastian Zutant, sommelier at Proof (775 G St. NW). &#8220;It&#8217;s that salty-sweet idea.&#8221;<\/p>\n<p>While matchy-matchy is a no-no in fashion, it can sometimes work wonders with wine and food. Zutant recently put a super-buttery chardonnay with an eggplant and goat cheese panini at Proof. The rich flavors worked in concert, &#8220;like pairing fat and grease,&#8221; he says. MacLean likes baked beans with tawny port. &#8220;I&#8217;ve got a trailer-trash heart. The beans and port have similar flavors of caramel and almonds. It&#8217;s all soft and round.&#8221;<\/p>\n<p>Even oddball dishes with lots of conflicting, grape-stomping flavors (hot dogs and sauerkraut, spicy Thai noodles) can be tamed by decanting something with residual sweetness, say an off-dry reisling or a vouvray.<\/p>\n<p>This week, Colman and several other wine writers each brought a wine to test with kebabs and curries at an East Side Indian restaurant. Sure enough, slightly sweet white wines won the taste-off. &#8220;Off-dry whites and bubbles tend to be good omnibus wines,&#8221; says Colman. &#8220;They can absorb salt and spice.&#8221;<\/p>\n<p>&#8220;It&#8217;s intimidating to go off the beaten path,&#8221; says Troy Bock, wine director at Sonoma (223 Pennsylvania Ave. SE) and Mendocino Grille (2917 M St. NW). &#8220;But if you match two flavors you like, it often works.&#8221; His fave odd coupling? Chocolate cake and Syrah.<\/p>\n<p>Yet some snacks will never meet their match. &#8220;I&#8217;m still experimenting with Mars Bars and Smarties,&#8221; says MacLean. And while pork rinds and a Pinot Gris might taste OK together, the spicy white is far yummier with pork barbecue.<\/p>\n<p>&#8220;I don&#8217;t think KFC&#8217;s bowl of potatoes and chicken pairs with wine,&#8221; says Colman. &#8220;But we&#8217;ve started to have a conversation in America about pairing non-traditional food with wine. We don&#8217;t have to be mired in a Merlot morass.&#8221;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Why did the chicken flee screaming across the road? It might&#8217;ve been escaping the dinner-party host trying to fry him and serve him with, yawn, a bottle of chardonnay. Matching vino and vittles for your next bash doesn&#8217;t have to be a &#8220;Wine for Dummies&#8221; affair relying on tried-and-tired combos (steak with Merlot, fish and Pinot Grigio). But combining tidbits that are supposedly wine-averse \u2014 Indian take-out, chips, breakfast \u2014 might mean you&#8217;ll uncork some interesting bottles. &#8220;In Europe, wine culture is quite developed, so it\u2019s common and easy to simply pair white with fish or things like that,&#8221; says [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[126,123,124,10,112,125,128],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-455","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-wine-beef","category-wine-chicken","category-wine-dessert","category-food-wine-pairing","category-junk-food-and-wine","category-wine-pork","category-wine-seafood"],"acf":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.nataliemaclean.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/455","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.nataliemaclean.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.nataliemaclean.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.nataliemaclean.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.nataliemaclean.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=455"}],"version-history":[{"count":2,"href":"https:\/\/www.nataliemaclean.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/455\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":13555,"href":"https:\/\/www.nataliemaclean.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/455\/revisions\/13555"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.nataliemaclean.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=455"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.nataliemaclean.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=455"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.nataliemaclean.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=455"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}