{"id":26879,"date":"2017-01-16T10:00:12","date_gmt":"2017-01-16T15:00:12","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.nataliemaclean.com\/blog\/?p=26879"},"modified":"2017-01-18T08:13:55","modified_gmt":"2017-01-18T13:13:55","slug":"icewine-canada-wine-dessert","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.nataliemaclean.com\/blog\/icewine-canada-wine-dessert\/","title":{"rendered":"The Wine that Came in from the Cold: Icewine"},"content":{"rendered":"

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Not a breath of wind caresses the snow-blanketed vineyards. The tar-black sky is pin-pricked with stars, and a full moon sends shadows slithering out between the scarecrow vines.<\/p>\n

Stooped figures in Arctic gear coax their bare fingers to snap off bunches of frozen grapes. That\u2019s what the annual icewine harvest<\/a><\/strong> looks like in Niagara at this time of the year. It results in a wine that combines the sweetness of lusciously ripe fruit with a silver edge of acidity that\u2019s as crisp as the winter wind.<\/p>\n

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Despite its modern association with Canada, icewine was actually discovered in Germany, by accident, in 1794. Vintners were preparing for the harvest when an unexpected early frost froze the grapes on the vine. The vintners pressed them anyway, and were delighted to learn that the resulting wine was not only drinkable, but exceptionally sweet and delicious\u2014thanks to the concentration of sugar in the frozen dehydrated grapes.<\/p>\n

The ideal climate for icewine is one where winter freezes are erratic. Germany and Austria can produce eiswein, but Canada has long since surpassed them because of consistently colder weather. Canada was first recognized in international competition for its icewine when Niagara\u2019s Inniskillin Wine Estates<\/a><\/strong> won France\u2019s Grand Prix d\u2019Honneur in 1991, beating out more than four thousand of the world\u2019s best wines.<\/p>\n

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Most of Canada\u2019s icewine<\/a><\/strong> is made in the Niagara Peninsula. About 450 million years ago, a Jurassic sea retreated and left behind the Niagara Escarpment, a ridge of limestone deposit that\u2019s similar to the soils of the great French wine regions such as Champagne and Burgundy. The Escarpment, defined by Lake Ontario and the Niagara River, protects vines from extremes of cold and heat; and Lake Ontario helps by releasing stored-up heat in winter and offering welcome coolness in the summer.<\/p>\n

Most icewine is made from the vidal grape, which is ideally suited for icewine. The grape ripens late and has a thick skin that can withstand rot, disease and the freeze-thaw cycles; a stubborn determination to cling to its stalk despite wind and snow; intensely aromatic fruit aromas and flavors; and a high acidity that balances the sweetness in the finished wine. Some vintners also use riesling grapes to make icewine, though they\u2019re not as hardy as vidal but they have more vibrant acidity and are considered more elegant, balanced and long-lived.<\/p>\n

Some vintners are experimenting with new grapes for icewine, such as pinot blanc, chenin blanc, gew\u00fcrztraminer, and chardonnay. And in 1997, Inniskillin made its first red icewine from cabernet franc grapes. Red icewine looks pretty, with its jeweled tones of red and fuchsia. However, the taste doesn\u2019t appeal to all palates.<\/p>\n

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Several wineries, including Innsikillin, Magnotta and Pilliteri Estates, have started to make sparkling icewines as well. These blend refreshing fruit flavors with palate-cleansing acidity and an effervescence that softens the perception of sweetness. Some see this as the ultimate blend of the world\u2019s two most luxurious wines, but others find the combination of fizzy and sweet odd.<\/p>\n