Vintages Wine Picks March 14, 2009

by Natalie MacLean

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[ Compress ] White Wine

Beckett's Flat Five Stones Sauvignon Semillon 2008, Margaret River, Western Australia, Australia: Vintages Wine Panel: Beckett’s Flat is a family-owned estate located in the heart of Margaret River, a region well-known for the superb quality of its wines. This same quality is evident in its Five Stones kosher wines which are produced under the strict supervision of Kosher Australia, the Kashrut Authority of Western Australia and the Orthodox Union USA. This classic blend of Sauvignon and Semillon shows ripe gooseberry, green apple and grapefruit with underlying herbaceous and mineral notes. My note: Very aromatic with grassy goodness with springs of thyme, chives and basil. Mouth-watering and zesty. Terrific! 108001 13% D 750 mL $18.95 Score: 90/100. March 14, 2009
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Richard Hamilton Almond Grove Chardonnay 2008, McLaren Vale, South Australia, Australia: Vintages Wine Panel: Before it became famous for its grape vines, McLaren Vale was known for its almond groves. Made exclusively with free-run juice, this delicious and vibrant chardonnay was fermented in French oak (25% new) and aged on its lees for 6 months. This popular, full-bodied Chard consistently displays a harmonious balance between its juicy tree-fruit flavors, creamy texture and moderately toasty oak notes. Serve with grilled tuna or butter chicken. My note: A buttery, oaky ole’ Chard with a blousy style. Round and supple with full-bodied goodness. Long, warm finish. 741009 14% D 750 mL $16.95 Score: 89/100. March 14, 2009
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West Cape Howe Sauvignon Blanc 2007, Great Southern, Western Australia, Estate Btld., Australia: Very grassy: rev’ the lawnmowers! Good attack and refreshment. Medium-bodied. Screwcap. 90910 12% XD 750 mL $19.95 Score: 88/100. March 14, 2009
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Cave Spring Cellars Cave Spring Estate Riesling 2007, Niagara, Ontario, Canada: A zesty, vibrant white with mouth-watering acidity and zing. Lovely white peach and floral notes with lime and citrus as well. 286377 12% D 750 mL $17.95 Score: 89/100. March 14, 2009
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Featherstone Winery & Vineyard Old Vines Riesling 2007, V.Q.A. Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada: Zesty and refreshing with lovely ripe peaches, rose petal, lime and lychee. Light-bodied. Terrific aperitif. 64584 10% XD 750 mL $18.95 Score: 89/100. March 14, 2009
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Michel David Clos Du Ferré Muscadet 2007, A.C. Loire, France: Vintages Wine Panel: A seamlessly made Muscadet from a 16.5 hectare plot called Clos du Ferré. The extended lees contact has added dimension and depth to this minerally, floral and fruity wine. Enjoy it with oysters, veal scallopini or grilled rainbow trout. My note: Vibrant acidity gives a refreshing attack. Zesty notes or lemons, limes and white grapefruit. 106286 12% XD 750 mL $14.95 Score: 87/100. March 14, 2009
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Domaine Saint-Rémy Vieilles Vignes, Philippe Ehrhart Gewurztraminer 2007, A.C. Alsace, France: Vintages Wine Panel: A love and respect for the environment inspired the Ehrhart family to move towards organic production. The transformation is ongoing and is expected to be completed within one or two vintages. In the meantime, wrap your palate around this delectable, slightly off-dry Gewürztraminer. It features classic aromas and flavors of rose petals, lychee and spice. Serve it with mildly spicy seafood dishes. My note: Gorgeously rich and plush with just enough sweetness to make a killer combination with spicy and slightly sweet dishes. With today’s cooking, we need more wines like this. Classic notes of rose petals and lychees. 106872 14% D 750 mL $19.95 Score: 92/100. March 14, 2009 Favorite White Wine.
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Frey-Sohler Riesling 2007, A.C. Alsace, Estate Btld., France: Vintages Wine Panel: Classic Riesling aromas, including peach, petrol, honeycomb and citrus. Dry and very fresh, with good replays on the palate. A wonderful palate refresher, or match it to grilled salmon steaks with salsa. My note: Incredibly mouth-watering and delicious. Zesty, tangy ripe limes, lemons and green apples. Medium-bodied. 107151 12% XD 750 mL $16.95 Score: 89/100. March 14, 2009
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Roger Lassarat Terroir De Vergisson Pouilly-Fuissé Chardonnay 2006, A.C. Burgundy, France: Vintages Wine Panel: Pouilly-Fuissé is the most recognized appellation in the Mâconnais. Producing only Chardonnay, the wines from the village of Vergisson – with their pronounced elegance – are considered exceptional. Look for apple, mineral, light pear and citrus aromas and flavors. Enjoy this medium full-bodied wine with grilled herbed chicken or white fish fried in butter. My note: An exquisite Chardonnay without too much oak and lots of mouth-watering acidity with ripe white peaches and green apples. Voluptuous texture. 110288 13% XD 750 mL $26.95 Score: 90/100. March 14, 2009
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Zilliken Riesling Kabinett 2003, Q.M.P. Saarburger Rausch, Estate Btld., Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, Germany: Stunning flavor and flavor yet incredibly light: white peach, lime and field flowers. A wine of immense contradictions and intrigue. Brainy but funny like Gweneth Paltrow. 931097 9% MD 750 mL $21.95 Score: 93/100. March 14, 2009
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J. Geil I. Erben Riesling Kabinett 2007, Q.M.P. Bechtheimer Rosengarten, Estate Btld., Rheinhessen, Germany: Good workhorse Riesling with solid pleasure and taste: ripe peaches and firm acidity. A tangerine-infused finish. Drink: 2009-2018. 994764 10% MD 750 mL $15.95 Score: 88/100. March 14, 2009
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Hilltop Prémium Range Pinot Grigio 2006, Neszmély, Hungary: Vintages Wine Panel: In Hungary’s Neszmélyi region, France’s Pinot Gris (aka Pinot Grigio) is known as Szürkebarát. The region’s climate is relatively mild, with long and pleasantly warm summers, allowing for a full and even ripening of the grapes. Pale straw with beautiful pear, apple, floral and hints of grass on the nose. Soft and round, gently off-dry, with medium body and a fine seam of acidity on a crisp, refreshing finish. My note: A lovely floral white with ripe white peach and melon. Medium-bodied and balanced. 106625 13% MD 750 mL $15.95 Score: 92/100. March 14, 2009
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Soljans Estate Winery & Café Sauvignon Blanc 2007, Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand: Grassy good and refreshing. Zesty attach with terrific notes of limes and lemons to follow. Medium-bodied. Screwcap. 91223 13% XD 750 mL $17.95 Score: 89/100. March 14, 2009
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Lords of McGregor Sauvignon Blanc 2007, W.O. McGregor, South Africa: Vintages Wine Panel: This wine contains 24 mg/L of free sulphur. Clean with clear grapefruit, lemon zest, floral and mineral notes on the nose. Dry, medium-bodied with a lively presence on the palate, good grapefruit replays and a touch of melon. The finish is racy and the length is medium. A very fine example. My note: Terrific, vibrant Sauvignon Blanc that’s not too grassy. Lovely herbal and lime notes. Fantastic acidity in this organic wine. 101162 13% XD 750 mL $16.95 Score: 90/100. March 14, 2009
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Cathedral Cellar Kwv Chardonnay 2006, W.O. Coastal Region, South Africa: Fantastic Chardonnay: big, oaky and buttery yes, but not too heavy. Generous and rich with flavor yet balanced. I love the wines from this producer. 328559 14% D 750 mL $13.95 Score: 90/100. March 14, 2009 Best Value White Wine.
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[ Compress ] Red Wine

Caitec Bodega Del Añjeo Pinot Noir 2006, Patagonia, Argentina: Vintages Wine Panel: How about a wine from the end of the world? Patagonia, Argentina’s cool, southern wine region, is at the extreme edge of viticulture. It’s not surprising, then, that Patagonia is a great source for Pinot Noir, a grape which is at its most expressive when grown in difficult conditions. This ready-to-drink version is a real bargain with lots of juicy cherry and plum flavors along with spice and mineral notes and fresh, balancing acidity. Enjoy with turkey or chicken in a mushroom sauce. My note: Great value for this lip-smacking delicious pinot. Generous, sweetly ripe cherries and strawberries. Smooth texture and a medium body. 109025 14% D 750 mL $15.95 Score: 88/100. March 14, 2009
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Badgstein Oak Malbec 2006, Mendoza, Argentina: Vintages Wine Panel: Badgstein, the first winery to export kosher wines from Argentina, was founded by an enthusiastic group of young entrepreneurs who challenged themselves to craft excellent quality wines while complying with the strict rules of the kosher tradition. This 100% Malbec was handpicked in the Luján de Cuyo region of Mendoza. Aged for 6 months in a combination of American and French oak, this medium full-bodied red is full of fresh red and black berry fruit flavors as well as notes of vanilla and coffee. My note: A simple, tasty wine with ripe purple plums and berries. Smooth and medium- to full-bodied. 120212 13% D 750 mL $15.95 Score: 87/100. March 14, 2009
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Dona Paula Estate Dona Paula Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2006, Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza, Argentina: Mocha, dark chocolate nose with black plums and fleshy blackberries. Full-bodied with solid structure. A smoky finish that's memorable. 95281 14% XD 750 mL $17.95 Score: 89/100. March 14, 2009
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Zuccardi Familia Zuccardi Tempranillo 2005, Mendoza, Estate Grown & Btld., Argentina: Tobacco, black fruit nose: smoking’! Full-bodied and smooth with a black, brooding heart. 973503 14% D 750 mL $18.95 Score: 89/100. March 14, 2009
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Leasingham Bin 61 Shiraz 2005, Clare Valley, South Australia, Australia: A Gold Medal winner at the Sydney and Queensland Wine Shows in 2007, and at the Perth Wine Show in 2008. Juicy black fruit flavor with mouth-watering acidity and a supple texture. 448241 14% XD 750 mL $25.95 Score: 90/100. March 14, 2009
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Beckett's Flat Five Stones Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz 2007, Margaret River, Western Australia, Australia: Vintages Wine Panel: The terroir of the Margaret River region is notably similar to that of Bordeaux with its well-drained gravel soils and maritime climate. In general, the reds here show more elegance and finesse than the powerhouse wines of South Australia. This dry, medium full-bodied blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Shiraz displays layers of blackcurrant, cassis, cherry and mint aromas. It has vibrant fruit flavors typical of Australia but with well-balanced acidity and plush tannins providing structure. My note: Amazingly well balanced and fresh with lots of fruit flavor and richness. What a terrific combination. Classic notes of blackberry, plum, cassis and some mocha. Long finish. Superb effort. 58693 13% XD 750 mL $19.95 Score: 90/100. March 14, 2009
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d'Arenberg The Cadenzia Grenache Shiraz Mouvedre 2006, McLaren Vale, South Australia, Australia: Minty black fruit on the nose. Plush, round and full-bodied on the palate: very satisfying and delicious. Made from mostly Grenache grapes that lend plushness to the wine with some Shiraz and Mouvedre. Matured in French and American barrels for ten months. The word Cadenza refers to an impassioned improvisation by a virtuoso soloist toward the end of a performance. 661587 14% D 750 mL $26.95 Score: 91/100. March 14, 2009
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Henschke Henry's Seven Shiraz Grenache Mourvedre Viognier 2005, Barossa, South Australia, Australia: This wine is a blend of 65% Shiraz, 25% Grenache, 5% Mourvedre, and 5% Viognier. Gorgeously ripe black berries and plums are lifted and highlighted in the mid-palate with the Viognier. Wonderful balance and complexity with a smooth and hugely satisfying finish. 685578 15% D 750 mL $42.95 Score: 94/100. March 14, 2009
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Water Wheel Shiraz 2006, Bendigo, Victoria, Australia: A dark and brooding wine with fleshy dark fruit as well as ground pepper, anise and dark spices. Delicious and full-bodied. 700815 16% XD 750 mL $18.95 Score: 89/100. March 14, 2009
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d'Arenberg The Custodian Grenache 2006, McLaren Vale, South Australia, Australia: Generously ripe with juicy red and black berries and plums. Plush texture and great fruit purity. Good finish. 713040 14% D 750 mL $21.95 Score: 90/100. March 14, 2009
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Grant Burge Cameron Vale Cabernet Sauvignon 2006, Barossa, South Australia, Australia: A remarkable value and quality for this price. Concentrated flavor and plush texture and complex layers of black fruit and smoke. Long finish. An excellent producer you can trust. 937276 14% XD 750 mL $20.95 Score: 92/100. March 14, 2009
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Elderton Ode To Lorraine, The Ashmead Family Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz Merlot 2004, Barossa, South Australia, Australia: A juicy, full-bodied blend of 57% Cabernet, 27% Shiraz and 16% Merlot. Aromas of savory meat, bacon fat, black cherry, smoke and vanilla. Nicely balanced. 976423 14% D 750 mL $37.95 Score: 91/100. March 14, 2009
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Yalumba Barossa Patchwork Shiraz 2006, Barossa Valley, South Australia, Australia: A meaty Shiraz with a good grip on the palate, full-bodied texture and mouth-watering fleshy black fruit. Decant for 1-2 hours. 98392 14% D 750 mL $21.95 Score: 90/100. March 14, 2009
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Tricyclo Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot Cabernet Franc 2007, Colchagua Valley, Estate Btld., Chile: Vintages Wine Panel: Three classic grape varieties from three different vineyards are expertly assembled to craft this versatile wine. Packed with raspberry and plum fruit flavors, this richly concentrated, long-finishing wine would be wonderful with smoky barbecue ribs or peppercorn steaks. My note: A simple, delicious, full-bodied red with ripe raspberries and currants. Decant for an hour for extra smoothness. 27474 13% XD 750 mL $15.95 Score: 88/100. March 14, 2009 Best Value Red Wine.
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Mayu Reserva Carmenère 2005, Elqui Valley, Coquimbo Region, Chile: Vintages Wine Panel: Viña Mayu is a relatively new winery located in Chile’s most northerly wine region, the Elqui Valley, and this Carmenère is from their debut vintage. Aged in French oak for eight months, this wine shows aromas of smoke, vanilla, cassis, blackberry jam and a hint of bell pepper. It’s dry, medium full-bodied with concentrated ripe black fruit flavors playing contrast to the smoky tar notes. Good length. My note: Dried tobacco leaves, black cherries and spice on the nose. Full-bodied richness and warmth on the palate with a cigar-infused finish. 90035 15% XD 750 mL $17.95 Score: 89/100. March 14, 2009
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Domaine Latour-Giraud La Fussière Maranges 1Er Cru Pinot Noir 2006, A.C. Burgundy, France: Vintages Wine Panel: A Pinot Noir made with exceptional varietal precision, featuring aromas of rose petals, sour cherry and a hint of dried meat. Dry with good fruit and fine, balancing acids and tannins. There is a vibrancy to the whole enterprise that will reward enjoyment tonight with grilled game bird, or cellar it for 2-4 years. My note: Fleshy ripe cherries and beetroot. Smooth texture with a lovely long finish. Terrific mouth-watering acidity. 111823 14% XD 750 mL $31.95 Score: 91/100. March 14, 2009
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Domaine La Haute Marone Gigondas 2005, A.C. Le Coeurs du Mistral, Rhône, France: Vintages Wine Panel: Mistral refers to a strong wind that blows down the Rhône River Valley from the Alps, bringing cool air to this Mediterranean wine region. When these winds are mild, such as in 2005, the growing season is extended and the wines become more complex. This fabulous Gigondas is packed full with ripe and spicy berry fruit. It’s dense, deep and softly tannic. My note: Feral notes of cedar, underbrush and wild cherries. Love it! Good grip and acidity with many layers of pleasure. Long finish. 33845 14% D 750 mL $26.95 Score: 90/100. March 14, 2009
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Henri De Villamont Bourgogne Pinot Noir 2007, A.C. Burgundy, France: Vintages Wine Panel: A ready-to-drink Pinot Noir that is a great value-priced intro to the charms of Burgundy. Chill it down slightly and enjoy this cherry- and strawberry-scented wine with grilled salmon steaks. My note: Pleasantly tart, almost sour cherries, that make your mouth water. Some strawberry notes and vibrant acidity. Medium-bodied and smooth. 84616 12% XD 750 mL $19.95 Score: 89/100. March 14, 2009
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Pavillon De Poyferré Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot Petit Verdot Cabernet Franc 2004, A.C. Saint-Julien, Bordeaux, France: Vintages Wine Panel: A blend of 62% Cabernet Sauvignon, 28% Merlot, 8% Petit Verdot and 2% Cabernet Franc, this second wine of Château Léoville Poyferré is sourced from younger vines in the same vineyard as their first wine. The château’s first wine garnered widespread acclaim, so the Pavillon will display many of the same virtues but in a more drink-now style. Look for cassis, toast and raspberry aromas with a fruity, balanced palate. My note: A dark, brooding wine with black fruit, smoky oak and cigar box aromas. Full-bodied, rich, complex and deep. Drink: 2010-2020. 91447 13% XD 750 mL $49.95 Score: 91/100. March 14, 2009
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Clos Laborie Château Tayac, Prop. Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2005, A.C. Margaux, Bordeaux, France: Vintages Wine Panel: Clos Laborie is the sister property of Château Tayac, a family-owned operation for over four generations. In the 19th century, Clos Laborie was part of Château Desmirail, a highly respected third-growth property. Today, it is a stand-alone site with a 60/40 Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot mix. From the great ‘05 vintage, it features aromas of caramel, blueberry and vanilla. Dry, lush and ripe on the palate, it is ably balanced by firm tannins. My note: Classic notes of cassis, blackberry and black plum. Full-bodied and a bit tannic so decant for 1-2 hours if you’re going to drink it now. This vintage (2005) was spectacular and the quality translates through all price ranges. Drink: 2010-2018. 91454 13% XD 750 mL $42.95 Score: 91/100. March 14, 2009
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Ella Valley Vineyards Merlot 2004, Ella Valley, Estate Btld., Israel: Superb structure and styling in this Bordeaux-like red made from mostly Merlot with 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. Classic notes of ripe blackcurrant, dark spices and cigar box. Drink: 2008-2014. 58891 14% D 750 mL $43.95 Score: 91/100. March 14, 2009
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Yarden Golan Heights Winery Pinot Noir 2004, Galilee, Israel: A warm, full Pinot with fleshy ripe, almost jammy, cherries and raspberries. Silk tannins and texture. This wine is kosher of Passover. 60756 14% D 750 mL $36.95 Score: 90/100. March 14, 2009
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Remo Farina Monte Fante Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico Riserva 1998, D.O.C. Veneto, Italy: Vintages Wine Panel: This exceptional single-vineyard Amarone riserva displays all the strengths of Remo Farina’s regular bottling, but taken to an even more elevated level. The fruit is hand-selected to ensure supreme quality in the finished wine. You can expect the resulting product to be rich and round, with a complex blend of earthy cherry, ginger and stewed-fruit flavors and aromas. My note: Big, black and brooding with dark cherry liqueur and fleshy black raspberries. Full-bodied and incredibly plush and smooth. A finish that will fly you to Italy. Drink: 2008-2020. 101634 15% XD 750 mL $77.95 Score: 92/100. March 14, 2009
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Tommasi Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico 2004, Italy: Super concentrated, black cherry liqueur nose and palate. Wowa! If you like palate-whackers, this one is for you. There’s something richly alluring and deceptively slippery about this amarone: I love it. Drink: 2008-2020. 356220 15% D 750 mL $52.95 Score: 93/100. March 14, 2009
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Morgante Nero D’Avola 2006, I.G.T. Sicilia, Estate Btld., Sicily, Italy: Vintages Wine Panel: Without a doubt, Nero d’Avola is Sicily’s best-known and most widely planted native black grape. Nero d’Avola takes well to barrel maturation, and expresses wild plum and dark chocolate aromas, with firm tannins and lively acidity surrounding the fruit. It is also valued in blends (especially with international varieties) for contributing intense color, full body, fresh acidity and good tannins. My note: What a vibrantly beautiful wine. Rushes out to meet you from the glass with fleshy ripe cherries, spice and plum. Gorgeous palate with rich layers, silky tannins and a warm blackberry-infused finish. Terrific value. Drink: 2008-2015. 40816 14% D 750 mL $16.95 Score: 91/100. March 14, 2009
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Santa Margherita Chianto Classico (Sangiovese) 2006, D.O.C.G., Tuscany, Italy: Mocha and fleshy blackberries on the nose with a Cabernet-like palate along with tobacco, dark spice and cassis. Good acidity and richness. Balanced with a long finish. 91694 14% XD 750 mL $19.95 Score: 89/100. March 14, 2009
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Bodegas Ateca Old Vines Garnacha 2006, D.O. Calatayud, Spain: This wine is made from Garnacha grapes, with vines that are 80-120 years old. Juicy, full-bodied and delicious: wow! Mouth-wateringly ripe, fleshy blackberries and black raspberries. Smooth, velvet texture. Absolutely yummy. Drink: 2008-2012. 103473 14% XD 750 mL $23.00 Score: 93/100. March 14, 2009 Favorite Red Wine.
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Les Mines Priorat 2005, D.O., Spain: From the southern region of Catalonia comes this delicious, mouth-watering, lush and full-bodied red. Ripe blackberry and plum with backnotes of smoke, graphite and cedar. Terrific minerality. Long and lovely. 103481 14% D 750 mL $25.95 Score: 90/100. March 14, 2009
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Hagafen Pinot Noir 2006, Napa Valley, Estate Btld., California, United States: Lovely ripe, tart cherries with pomegranate, beetroot and red currant. Mouth-watering acidity is so refreshing. Kosher for Passover. 11460 14% D 750 mL $41.95 Score: 91/100. March 14, 2009
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Joseph Phelps Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon 2005, Napa Valley, United States: One of Napa’s “first growths,” this classic red has so much finesse and elegance yet it also delivers beautiful fruit flavor and concentration. Full-bodied with a long finish. 189795 14% XD 750 mL $73.95 Score: 91/100. March 14, 2009
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[ Compress ] Sparkling Wine

Saracco Moscato D'asti 2008, D.O.C.G. Piedmont, Italy: Vintages Wine Panel: Pale straw with a light mousse, bursting with sweet floral, citrus, orange blossom, apricot and candied fruit. Sweet with balancing acidity and a very clean mandarin orange finish. With just 5% alcohol it’s a perfect way to start a family brunch. My note: Every time I drink this wine, I wonder why I don’t drink more of it. I can’t image a better summer deck aperitif or accompaniment to grilled veggies and salads. It’s incredible low in alcohol so you can indulge and not drive the speed boat into the dock. 106385 5% MS 750 mL $19.95 Score: 90/100. March 14, 2009 Favorite Sparkling Wine.
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Canella Non-Vintage, Nicoletta Canella Prosecco Di Conegliano, D.O.C., Italy: Fantastic value for this toasty bubbly. Notes of green apples, white peach and wild field flowers. Lovely on its own as an aperitif or drink it with many dishes, from seafood and glazed ham. Drink: 2008-2009. 106963 11% D 750 mL $19.95 Score: 88/100. March 14, 2009 Best Value Sparkling Wine.
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Vintages Wine Picks March 14, 2009

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