Vintages Wine Picks November 13, 2010

by Natalie MacLean


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[ Compress ] White Wine

Flat Rock Cellars Nadja's Vineyard Riesling 2009, V.Q.A., Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada: Vintages Wine Panel: This wine won a Gold Medal at the 2010 Canadian Wine Awards. The 2009 vintage in Niagara was very strong for Riesling, and Flat Rock has translated this into a spectacular wine. Pale gold, it serves up expressive aromas of lime and lime peel, floral, white peach, nectarine and mineral. Dry, medium bodied, with bright acidity and tangy fruit dancing on the palate. Crisp, mouth-watering finish. A pretty wine, to be sure. It will age gracefully for at least 5 years. My note: Absolutely marvellous! Peach, petrol (that’s good) and long, deep lines of minerality and pleasurable satisfaction. Love this style of Riesling. Drink: 2010-2016.  578625  11.60%  XD  750 mL  $19.95  Score: 92/100. November 13, 2010 Favourite White Wine Tied.
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Veramonte Reserva Chardonnay 2008, Chile: Buttery and bold with New World fruit power. Full-bodied and deep. Amazing price. Drink: 2010-2013.  494443  13.50%  XD  750 mL  $14.95  Score: 88/100. November 13, 2010
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Veramonte Reserva Sauvignon Blanc 2009, Casablanca Valley, Chile: Herbal and fresh with grassy-good crispness. No heavy oak. Good aperitif.  602649  13.50%  D  750 mL  $13.95  Score: 87/100. November 13, 2010 Best Value White Wine.
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Tabali Reserva Especial Chardonnay 2008, Limarí Valley, Chile: Buttery, big and blousy with some good balancing acidity. Full-bodied, rich and mouth-filling. Notes of green apple. Drink: 2010-2015.  663005  13.50%  D  750 mL  $18.95  Score: 90/100. November 13, 2010
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Martin Steimer Pinot Gris 2009, A.C., Alsace, France: Vintages Wine Panel: This off-dry Pinot Gris is a very enjoyable autumn sipper. Brimming with ripe cantaloupe, orange zest, binned apple, peach and intriguing floral notes, it balances moderate sweetness with bright acidity and sports a lengthy, lip-smacking finish. It also pairs nicely with richer cheeses. My note: Some sweetness here is balanced with acidity of fleshy ripe aromas of peach and pear. Perfect for all those dishes we eat with a touch of sweetness like glazed ham as well as hot and spicy dishes.  106807  13.50%  MD  750 mL  $16.95  Score: 89/100. November 13, 2010
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Donatien Bahuaud Les Grands Mortiers Vouvray Chenin Blanc 2008, A.C., Loire, France: Vintages Wine Panel: Here’s a very pretty Vouvray that should come as quite a lovely surprise for those unfamiliar with the Chenin Blanc grape, though existing fans will recognize it as classic to form. Tropical fruit aromas with a touch of candle wax woo the senses. On the palate these notes replay nicely, and are made even more seductive by the smooth, almost viscous texture. Medium bodied and dry with just a subtle suggestion of sweetness. My note: Floral and festive with attractive aromas of white peach. Lovely springy wine.  140889  12%  MD  750 mL  $15.95  Score: 88/100. November 13, 2010
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Schoenheitz Linsenberg Rielsing 2007, A.C., Alsace, France: Vintages Wine Panel: In the 1970s, Henri Schoenheitz rejuvenated these vineyards, devastated by World War II, and created an award-winning operation. This refreshing Riesling is a brilliant yellow. The nose and palate are treated to green apple, citrus and peach, which replay satisfyingly with some mineral notes. There’s crisp acidity here. My note: Zippy and dry with aromas of peach and white melon. Terrific aperitif. Light to medium-bodied.  196618  10%  XD  750 mL  $17.95  Score: 89/100. November 13, 2010
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Dog Point Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2009, Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand: Zippy, herbal and refreshing with classic aromas of asparagus, canned peas, chives and grass. Great acidity.  677450  13.50%  XD  750 mL  $19.95  Score: 91/100. November 13, 2010
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Sterling Vineyards Chardonnay 2007, Napa Valley, California, United States: Vintages Wine Panel: An excellent value from Napa, Sterling barrel ferments and ages this medium-full bodied Chard, giving it toasty and smoky notes balanced with aromas and flavours of ripe apple, peach, pear and tropical fruit. My note: Big, round and butter with buxomly ripe peach and pear aromas. Drink: 2010-2015.  330233  14.20%  D  750 mL  $21.95  Score: 91/100. November 13, 2010
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La Crema Chardonnay 2008, Russian River Valley, Sonoma, California, United States: Lovely balance: rich layers of green apple, smoke and butter with mouth-awakening acidity for food. Full-bodied and generous. Superb craftsmanship! Drink: 2010-2015.  67231  14.50%  D  750 mL  $39.95  Score: 92/100. November 13, 2010 Favourite White Wine Tied.
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[ Compress ] Red Wine

Bodegas Callia Winemaker's Reserve Grand Callia 2006, San Juan, Argentina: Magnificent balance and structure with depth and length. Combines Old World finesse with New World power. Aromas of blackberry, plum, smoke, dark spices and espresso.  175661  14%  D  750 mL  $34.95  Score: 92/100. November 13, 2010
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Malivoire Guilty Men Cabernet Merlot 2009, V.Q.A., Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada: Vintages Wine Panel: Winemaker Shiraz Mottiar and his team continue to show that Malivoire’s decision to expand their repertoire to include Bordeaux varietals was a good call. This youthful wine shows robust, complex aromas of black cherry, bumble- berry, blackcurrant, cinnamon, vanilla and sandalwood. It’s dry and medium bodied, with tangy acidity and firm tannins supporting a core of nice round fruit. Hold this wine for 2-4 years. My note: Round, supple, medium- to full-bodied. Aromas of chocolate, black plum and dark berry.  186247  13.50%  D  750 mL  $19.95  Score: 88/100. November 13, 2010
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Santa Rita Medalla Real Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2007, Maipo Valley, Chile: Dark with smoky black fruit and oak. Tasty and savoury with good balance. Great quality for the price. Full-bodied whack.  275594  14%  D  750 mL  $19.95  Score: 89/100. November 13, 2010
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Montes Alpha Cabernet Sauvignon 2008, Colchagua Valley, Chile: Terrific stuff! Black cherry liqueur with fleshy blackberries. Full-bodied with a solidly satisfying core.  322586  14.50%  D  750 mL  $19.95  Score: 90/100. November 13, 2010
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Casa Silva Quinta Generación Limited Edition Cabernet Sauvignon Carmenere 2007, Colchagua Valley, Chile: Gorgeously rich and luxurious with deep, long aromas of black plum and blackberry. Full-bodied and supple with a terrific finish. Superb!  59451  14%  D  750 mL  $24.95  Score: 91/100. November 13, 2010
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Santa Carolina Barrica Selection Petit Verdot 2008, Rapel Valley, Chile: Vintages Wine Panel: One of the lesser-known Bordeaux grapes, Petit Verdot, takes centre stage in this fine Chilean red. Packed with blackberry, dark chocolate, floral and toast notes, this wine is deeply flavourful and satisfying. Enjoy it tonight. My note: terrific quality for the money! Dark, savoury notes of blackberry, cassis and mocha. Full-bodied and dark.  7484  14.50%  D  750 mL  $14.95  Score: 88/100. November 13, 2010 Best Value Red Wine Tied.
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Hecht & Bannier Saint Chinian 2007, A.C., Midi, France: Dark, rich and voluptuous with aromas of dark berries and plums. Full-bodied, smoky and warm. Like a liquid shall of warmth on your shoulders. Drink: 2010-2015.  184184  13.50%  XD  750 mL  $22.95  Score: 91/100. November 13, 2010
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Château Signac Combe D'enfer Cuvée Syrah Blend 2007, A.C., Côtes Du Rhône-Villages Chusclan, France: Big and black with tasty dark-bruiser fruit. Full-bodied and satisfying. Great for dinner parties featuring steak. Drink: 2010-2018.  184226  14.50%  XD  750 mL  $18.95  Score: 90/100. November 13, 2010
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E. Guigal Syrah Blend 2006, A.C., Gigondas, Rhône, France: What a grip! Powerful, dark, powerful wine with a deep, long structure. Classic Rhone with dark cherry, cedar and savoury notes. Drink: 2010-2018.  331900  14%  XD  750 mL  $27.95  Score: 90/100. November 13, 2010
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Bouchard Père & Fils 2007, A.C., Gevrey-Chambertin, Burgundy, France: Silky, mouth-watering deliciously with fleshy ripe cherries. Medium-bodied and smooth with a long finish. Drink: 2010-2016.  661330  13%  XD  750 mL  $44.95  Score: 90/100. November 13, 2010
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Château de Beaucastel Syrah Blend 2008, A.C., Châteauneuf-Du-Pape Rhône, France: Savoury, juicy with full-bodied goodness. Dark berries and plums with black cherry liqueur through the core and a dark spicy finish. Drink: 2010-2025.  711317  14.50%  XD  750 mL  $89.95  Score: 95/100. November 13, 2010 Favourite Red Wine Tied.
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Château de Beaucastel Syrah Blend 2008, A.C., Châteauneuf-Du-Pape Rhône, France: Savoury, juicy with full-bodied goodness. Dark berries and plums with black cherry liqueur through the core and a dark spicy finish. Drink: 2010-2025.  968750  14.50%  XD  375 mL  $46.95  Score: 95/100. November 13, 2010
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Vinum Vita Est Cantina Terre Del Barolo Nebbiolo D'alba 2007, D.O.C., Piedmont, Italy: Vintages Wine Panel: Terre del Barolo is a cooperative of growers, founded in 1958, which helps hundreds of smaller vineyards to continue producing high-quality grapes. This Nebbiolo features aromas and flavours of red plum, cranberry and herbs, with some rose petal notes. The flavours echo on the palate, along with good, crisp acidity. A well-made, medium-full-bodied red. My note: Ultra-dry and mouth-watering with black cherry and blackberry. Balanced and medium- to full-bodied.  181461  14.50%  XD  750 mL  $15.95  Score: 87/100. November 13, 2010
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Castelgiocondo Marchesi De' Frescobaldi Brunello Di Montalcino 2005, D.O.C.G., Tuscany, Italy: Big, black and brooding and in serious need of cellar time. Don’t open it now. Blackberry, black plums, smoky oak. Full-bodied and fairly smooth, though this will improve with aging. Drink: 2012-2021.  35295  14%  XD  375 mL  $26.95  Score: 91/100. November 13, 2010
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Castelgiocondo Marchesi De' Frescobaldi Brunello Di Montalcino 2005, D.O.C.G., Tuscany, Italy: Big, black and brooding and in serious need of cellar time. Don’t open it now. Blackberry, black plums, smoky oak. Full-bodied and fairly smooth, though this will improve with aging. Drink: 2012-2021.  650432  14%  XD  750 mL  $49.95  Score: 91/100. November 13, 2010
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Luce Della Vite Luce 2007, I.G.T., Tuscany, Italy: Warm, inviting and full-bodied with lovely aromas of dark fruit and smoke. Balanced with terrific structure. This is a wine that will cellar well for years. Drink: 2012-2020.  685263  14.50%  XD  750 mL  $99.95  Score: 91/100. November 13, 2010
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Ruffino Modus Sangiovese Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2006, I.G.T., Tuscany, Italy: Juicy, savoury notes with blackberry and smoke. Full-bodied with a grip. Could use cellar time. Pleasant dry bitter cherry finish. Drink: 2012-2019.  912956  13.50%  XD  750 mL  $28.95  Score: 91/100. November 13, 2010
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Antinori Guado Al Tasso Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot Cabernet Franc 2007, D.O.C., Bolgheri Superiore, Tuscany, Italy: Oh my, give me pause here to take another sip. I love this wine. Full-bodied, juicy, generous, supple: it’s got it all. Dark fruit, espresso, and smoky. Bring me more please! Drink: 2010-2015.  986380  14%  XD  750 mL  $89.95  Score: 95/100. November 13, 2010 Favourite Red Wine Tied.
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Solaia Antinori Unfiltered Cabernet Sauvignon Sangiovese Cabernet Franc 2007, I.G.T., Tuscany, Italy: A splendid wine at a splendidly high price. Who can say what pleasure is worth? Don’t ask me as I’m a cheapskate. This wine has gorgeous aromas of dark cherries and plump black plums. Some spice, smoke and international intrigue on the finish. Drink: 2011-2023.  987586  14%  XD  750 mL  $249.95  Score: 94/100. November 13, 2010
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Farina Classico Amarone Della Valpolicella 2005, D.O.C., Veneto, Italy: Gorgeous depths of black fruit and a savoury, meaty core. Full-bodied and smooth with some dark spices and clove on the finish. Drink: 2010-2015.  995910  15%  D  750 mL  $34.95  Score: 89/100. November 13, 2010
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Oyster Bay Pinot Noir 2009, Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand: Vintages Wine Panel: Pinot Noir is Marlborough’s red-wine specialty, and this crowd-pleasing version comes from one of New Zealand’s most consistent producers. With pure fruit characters of brambly raspberry, black cherry and spice, it will make a fine partner for beef-and-veggie ratatouille. My note: Love this style! Juicy with black cherries and berries. Great acidity for food. Medium-bodied and lusciously supple.  590414  13.50%  D  750 mL  $19.95  Score: 90/100. November 13, 2010
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Pisa Range Estate Black Poplar Block Pinot Noir 2007, Central Otago, South Island, New Zealand: Good acidity with fleshy tart cherries and field berries. Very perky, satisfying and ultra-tasting.  62398  14.50%  D  750 mL  $44.95  Score: 90/100. November 13, 2010
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Juan Gil Silver Label Monastrell 2007, D.O., Jumilla, Spain: Savoury dark chocolate notes with black fleshy plums and a juicy, voluptuous finish. Full-bodied and satin smooth. A huge crowd pleasure. Drink: 2010-2017.  1677  15%  XD  750 mL  $21.95  Score: 91/100. November 13, 2010
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Bodegas Alejandro Fernandez Tinto Pesquera Crianza 2007, D.O., Ribera Del Duero, Spain: Love this style: Old World classic. Aromas of leather, dried fruit and maturity. This is simple lovely and tastes older than the vintage in a good way. Drink: 2010-2017.  341461  14%  XD  750 mL  $27.95  Score: 92/100. November 13, 2010
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Raimat Abadia Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot Tempranillo 2007, D.O., Costers Del Segre, Spain: Vintages Wine Panel: This rich and quaffable Crianza is a tasty introduction to the modern wines of Spain. A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Tempranillo, it is aged for 6 months in French oak and 10 months in American oak, giving it complexity and depth well beyond its price. An unbeatable value, this crowd-pleasing wine has intriguing smoke and vanilla notes layered on ripe black fruit and peppery spice. My note: Straight-forward and tasty with dark fruit and some smoke. Drink: 2010-2013.  935460  13.50%  XD  750 mL  $14.95  Score: 87/100. November 13, 2010
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McKinley Springs Syrah 2006, Horse Heaven Hills, Washington State, United States: Lovely and luscious with great unplumbed depths. Dark fruit and layers of satisfaction. Terrific balance.  199794  14.90%  D  750 mL  $27.95  Score: 90/100. November 13, 2010
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Tin Barn Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Blend 2005, Napa Valley, California, United States: Juicy brambleberry and blueberry with juicy, mouth-watering dark cherry flavours. So much fun!  201202  14.90%  D  750 mL  $34.95  Score: 91/100. November 13, 2010
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Goldeneye Pinot Noir 2007, Anderson Valley, California, United States: Vintages Wine Panel: From one of northern California’s coolest AVAs (Anderson Valley) comes this fine, classically styled Pinot. Medium ruby colour with aromas of cherry, raspberry, smoked meat and earth tones. Dry, quite fruity and pretty, with velvety tannins and fresh acids. Medium-full bodied with a ripe, fresh, lengthy finish. Will age 2-4+ years, but is drinking beautifully tonight. My note: Juicy ripe black cherries with supple smooth satin texture, medium-bodied. Absolutely lovely  f157594  14.50%  D  750 mL  $59.95  Score: 93/100. November 13, 2010
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[ Compress ] Sparkling Wine

Cave De Lugny Crémant De Bourgogne 2007, A.C., Burgundy, France: Vintages Wine Panel: An exceptionally priced, vintage-dated Burgundian bubbly. There’s a maturity to this wonderful sparkler, exuding warm aromas of toasted bread and nuts that echo on the palate alongside some tangy citrus and a hint of tea. Well-balanced, crisp and refreshing. My note: A simple, toasty bubbly with toasty aromas. Good budget sparkler for parties.  183764  12%  XD  750 mL  $17.95  Score: 87/100. November 13, 2010 Best Value Sparkling Wine.
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Huré Frëres L'inattendue Blanc De Blancs Brut Champagne, A.C., Champagne, France: Excellent quality for this price. Toasty with green apple and lime. Very refreshing.  191312  12%  XD  750 mL  $38.95  Score: 88/100. November 13, 2010
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Taittinger Brut Champagne 2004, A.C., Champagne, France: Toasty and crisp with a surprisingly full-bodied weight. Lovely notes of tasted almond and green apple goodness.  989905  12.50%  XD  750 mL  $74.95  Score: 91/100. November 13, 2010 Favourite Sparkling Wine.
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[ Compress ] Dessert Wine

De Bortoli Noble One Botrytis Semillon 2007, Australia: Triple yum! Apricot and peach preserve. Luscious and lovely yet not heavily alcoholic.  917252  10%  S  375 mL  $29.95  Score: 93/100. November 13, 2010
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Inniskillin Wines Riesling Icewine 2007, V.Q.A., Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada: Vintages Wine Panel: Both a pioneer and indefatigable innovator of Icewine, Inniskillin stands as the world leader of Canada’s vinous treasure. The incredible 2007 vintage in Niagara is one for the record books. My note: Riesling-based icewine is my favorite hands down. It has greater complexity and balance than other grapes because of the terrific combination of acidity and fruit. Notes of ripe pear, apricot, peach and honey. Inniskillin certainly knows how to make a masterful icewine. This is truly a benchmark of the breed.  558288  11%    375 mL  $69.95  Score: 93/100. November 13, 2010 Favourite Dessert Wine.
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Inniskillin Okanagan Vineyards Riesling Icewine 2007, V.Q.A., Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada: Riesling-based icewine is my favourite hands down. It has greater complexity and balance than other grapes because of the terrific combination of acidity and fruit. Notes of ripe pear, apricot, peach and honey. Inniskillin certainly knows how to make a masterful icewine. This is truly a benchmark of the breed. Pair with: chicken with a mushroom sauce, ribollita, lobster thermidor, crab salad, hard cheeses.  558288  13%  S  375 mL  $69.95  Score: 93/100. November 13, 2010
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Gould Campbell Vintage Port 1983, Douro, Portugal: Blackberry and blueberry jam with lovely depth and breadth. Superb quality.  731752  20%  S  750 mL  $79.00  Score: 92/100. November 13, 2010
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Quady Winery Orange Muscat 2007, California, United States: Exotic and wonderful with a Clementine dipped in chocolate flavour. Can’t imagine a better wine with many desserts or on its own.  299552  15%  S  375 mL  $13.95  Score: 93/100. November 13, 2010 Best Value Dessert Wine.
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