Vintages Wine Picks May 29, 2010

by Natalie MacLean


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[ Compress ] White Wine

Trapiche Broquel Chardonnay 2008, Mendoza, Argentina: Big, beautiful, blousy Chardonnay with ripe notes of green apples, butterscotch, smoke and vanilla spice. What you want in a Grand Ole Opry Chardonnay.  166413  14%  D  750 mL  $15.95  Score: 89/100. May 29, 2010
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Vinecol Torrontés 2009, Mendoza, Argentina: Vintages Wine Panel: This organic wine contains just 24 mg/L of free sulphur. Here’s a wonderful example of Argentine Torrontés. Aromatically exotic yet delicate, with pretty floral, ripe nectarine, grapefruit and lemon zest flavours in this dry, light-bodied beauty. Extra-ordinary value. Makes a lovely sipper. My note: Floral with some gestures toward gewurztraminer. Lychee, rose petal, mild spices. Terrific wine for Asian and mild curries. Wonderful aperitif or companion to many dishes.  32748  12.80%  D  750 mL  $13.95  Score: 87/100. May 29, 2010
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d'Arenberg The Olive Grove Chardonnay 2008, Mclaren Vale, Adelaide Hills, South Australia, Australia: Big acidity with notes of green apples and hazelnuts. Full-bodied and vibrant.  702845  1.50%  D  750 mL  $17.95  Score: 87/100. May 29, 2010
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Stratus Riesling 2008, V.Q.A., Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada: Love the petrol, white peach aromas. Don’t be put off by the first adjective; petrol means minerality and flinty aromas. This Riesling is absolutely intriguing because of it. One of Canada’s best!  131011  11%  D  750 mL  $29.20  Score: 92/100. May 29, 2010
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Viña Chocalán Sauvignon Blanc 2009, Casablanca Valley, Chile: Vintages Wine Panel: Pale gold. Fresh melon, goose-berry, field grass, citrus and floral notes. Medium bodied, dry and vivacious on the palate, with a pretty fruit core and plenty of racy acidity. Nice replays of grass and tangy citrus on the finish. Stellar value here. Give it a whirl. My note: Rev your lawnmowers! Pure fresh-cut grassy goodness and an acidic bite that demands food. Refreshing and a terrific value.  168526  12.50%  XD  750 mL  $11.95  Score: 86/100. May 29, 2010
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Domaine De La Gitonnièree Touraine Vign. De Thézéa-La-Romaine Sauvignon Blanc 2008, A.C., Loire, France: Vintages Wine Panel: This wine won a Silver Medal at the 2009 Concours des Vins du Val de Loire. Pale straw-gold colour. Displays classic Loire Sauvignon Blanc aromas: peapods, asparagus, artichoke, mineral and citrus. It’s dry, fresh, vibrant, racy and clean. A lovely hit of fruit/vegetal flavours chime in at mid-palate and persist with stamina on the finish. My note: Pure lemon and lanolin essence! Stunning with no heavy oak but packed with flavour and body. Great acidity for food. Double yum!  168914  12.50%  XD  750 mL  $13.95  Score: 88/100. May 29, 2010 Best Value White Wine.
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Domaine Hubert Reyser Clevner Sonnenberg Clevner 2008, A.C., Alsace, France: Vintages Wine Panel: A Gold Medal winner at the 38th annual Grand Concours des Vins d’Alsace in 2009. This beauty is made with the Clevner variety (aka Pinot Blanc). It’s quite aromatic, with deep floral notes, exotic spices, camomile tea and a hint of lychee. Vibrant acidity keeps the focus on the palate, leading to a lovely, lingering finish. Will make a fine sipper. My note: Juicy, generous white with lovely notes of fleshy ripe peach and pear, white flowers and happiness. Light- to medium-bodied but not wimpy. Gorgeous flavour.  168989  12.80%  D  750 mL  $16.95  Score: 90/100. May 29, 2010
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Domaine Sylvain Gaudron Vouvray 2006, A.C., Loire, France: This wine won a Gold Medal at the 2008 Concours des Vins du Val de Loire. Soft and alluring with subtle notes of white peach and apple blossom. Not a lot of acidity or oak, this light-bodied white will delight those who love floral lovely wines.  171462  12%  D  750 mL  $15.95  Score: 87/100. May 29, 2010
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Dr. Loosen Blue Slate Riesling Kabinett 2007, Q.M.P., Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, Germany: Love it! Apricot and honeysuckle burst from the glass! Mouth-watering acidity with zingy citrus notes. Light-bodied but packed with flavour. White peach-infused finish. Perfect.  160846  7.50%  MD  750 mL  $19.95  Score: 90/100. May 29, 2010
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Kruger-Rumpf Riesling Kabinett 2008, Q.B.A., Munsterer Kapellenberg , Nahe, Germany: Searing acidity with white peach, Asian peach and white flowers. Gorgeous and balanced and stunningly delicious!  721928  8%  M  750 mL  $18.95  Score: 90/100. May 29, 2010
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Val Di Neto Bianco Critone Librandi Chardonnay Blend 2008, I.G.T, Calabria, Italy: Vintages Wine Panel: This intriguing blend is built around Chardonnay. Notes of floral, mixed citrus, yellow plum and tropical fruit mingle on the nose. There is substantial fruit character on the medium-bodied palate, with a floral nuance adding complexity. Serve chilled and savour as a sipper. My note: Chardonnay flavours but no heaviness. Green apples, butter and smoke but also lively and bright peach and pear through the middle. Good acidity and balance.  169169  13%  D  750 mL  $13.95  Score: 87/100. May 29, 2010
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Matua Valley Shingle Peak Sauvignon Blanc 2008, Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand: Grassy and herbal but not aggressively so. Clean, crisp and refreshing the way Sauvignon Blanc should be. Goes does slippery fast.  309591  13%  D  750 mL  $19.95  Score: 89/100. May 29, 2010
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Newton Johnson Sauvignon Blanc 2008, W.O., Walker Bay & Elgin, South Africa: Perfectly balanced New World Sauvignon Blanc: citrus and herbal notes enliven the palate but there’s also extra texture and depth. Love the balance and length. Terrific value: what are you waiting for?  714212  13%  XD  750 mL  $16.95  Score: 89/100. May 29, 2010
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Stags' Leap Winery Chardonnay 2007, Napa Valley, California, United States: Vintages Wine Panel: This well-structured Chardonnay is crafted in a crisp and refreshing style, which is wonderfully atypical for Napa. It features green apple and floral aromas followed by a very dry, full body with more apple and mineral flavours and a vivacious backbone of acidity. Cellar it 3-5+ years. My note: Classic, beautifully-structured Napa Chardonnay, everything it should be! Gorgeous aromas of green apple, peach, hazelnut, toasted almond, butter and smoke. Full-bodied and generously layers and supple. Yes please!  655381  14.20%  D  750 mL  $34.95  Score: 93/100. May 29, 2010 Favourite White Wine.
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[ Compress ] Red Wine

Zuccardi Q Cabernet Sauvignon 2006, Mendoza, Argentina: Savoury, dark, meaty and brooding. Ripe aromas of blackberries and black plums with a smoky, satisfying finish. Yum!  140855  14%  D  750 mL  $18.95  Score: 89/100. May 29, 2010
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Calathus Finca Don Carlos Malbec 2007, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina: Winner of a Gold Medal at the Concours Mondial de Bruxelles 2009. Juicy, full-bodied and generous. Terrific red with ripe fleshy notes of plums, berries, mocha and coffee. Perfect for movie night!  168435  13.90%  D  750 mL  $19.95  Score: 90/100. May 29, 2010
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Luigi Bosca Reserva Malbec 2007, Luján De Cuyo, Mendoza, Argentina: Dark black plums and dried tobacco with mouth-watering acidity. Full-bodied and succulent. Delicious!  79293  14%  D  750 mL  $17.95  Score: 89/100. May 29, 2010
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Fools Bay Dusty's Desire Dirty Bliss Grenache Shiraz 2008, Barossa Valley, South Australia, Australia: A humongous wine with big black get-out-the-way plums and berries. Purple liqueur and smoke on the finish. Pow! A blend of 85/15 Grenache and Shiraz.  165787  15.50%  D  750 mL  $19.95  Score: 88/100. May 29, 2010
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Yalumba The Cigar Cabernet Sauvignon 2006, Coonawarra, South Australia, Australia: Vintages Wine Panel: Pleasing aromas of ripe dark fruit and smoke greet the nose. This velvety smooth, full-bodied Cabernet Sauvignon is richly flavoured with plum, blackberry and spice. The winemaker suggests pairing it with roast duck with all the trimmings. My note: Such a dependably great producer! Even when the reds are big and brooding they still have a palate lift and vibrancy at their heart. Loaded with black plums, blackcurrant and berries. Top me up.  165829  14.50%  D  750 mL  $24.95  Score: 89/100. May 29, 2010
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Willunga 100 Grenache 2007, Mclaren Vale, South Australia, Australia: Vintages Wine Panel: Bold and big, featuring flavours of dark fruit, cherry, pepper and savoury spice, balanced by light acidity followed by blueberry flavours and chocolate/coffee notes on the finish. My note: Spicy, dark and racy with spices, purple plums and blueberries. Supple and full-bodied, kissed with oak. Yum!  166231  14.50%  D  750 mL  $19.95  Score: 88/100. May 29, 2010
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Mr. Riggs The Gaffer Shiraz 2008, Mclaren Vale, South Australia, Australia: Gorgeous dark and rich with a river of pure black goodness running through it. Blackberries, plums and dark spices. Mysterious and yet all is revealed once you drink it.  47597  15%  D  750 mL  $23.95  Score: 90/100. May 29, 2010
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d'Arenberg The Custodian Grenache 2007, Mclaren Vale, South Australia, Australia: You want a big palate-wacker, well step right up my dear. This delivers a solid punch of fruit, alcohol and smoky oak. Loads of black cherry and blackberry. Ba-Boom!  713040  14.50%  D  750 mL  $19.95  Score: 88/100. May 29, 2010
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Santa Carolina Barrica Selection Merlot 2008, Rapel Valley, Chile: Vintages Wine Panel: Sourced from Santa Carolina’s own vineyards in the Rapel Valley, the fruit for this wine is hand-picked before going through a further double selection process, once for bunches and another for individual berries. This meticulous attention to detail ensures that only the best fruit is used to craft this deep and delicious wine. Dark purple in colour, it’s packed with intense aromas and flavours of plum, cherry and anise. Enjoy over the next 3 to 4 years. My note: Notes of chocolate, black plums and blueberries with a black cherry liqueur running through it. Full-bodied and smooth as satin. Perfect party wine.  27276  14%  D  750 mL  $14.95  Score: 88/100. May 29, 2010 Best Value Red Wine (Tied).
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Domaine Calvet-Thunevin Cuvée Constance Syrah Blend 2007, Vin De Pays Des Côtes Catalanes, Rhône, France: Grenache leads in this blend with robust layers of black and purple plums and blueberries. Supple with good weight. Terrific wine for pizza night.  168690  15%  D  750 mL  $16.95  Score: 88/100. May 29, 2010
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Ferraton Père & Fils Samorens Syrah Blend 2007, A.C., Côtes Du Rhône, France: Cedary with ripe fleshy dark berries. Love this style of Rhone! It’s so interesting and delicious with each gulp; you don’t tire of it. It also pairs with many hearty meat dishes.  168708  14.50%  XD  750 mL  $14.95  Score: 89/100. May 29, 2010 Best Value Red Wine (Tied).
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Mas Del Périé Tradition Cahors Marie-Rose Ortalo, Prop.-Récolt. Malbec 2006, A.C., Midi, France: Black, big and brooding with fleshy dark aromas of blackberries and black raspberries. Supple and full-bodied with a smoky, spice-infused finish. Yum!  171561  13%  D  750 mL  $18.95  Score: 88/100. May 29, 2010
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Château Beaumont Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot Cabernet Franc Petit Verdot 2006, A.C., Haut-Médoc, Bordeaux, France: A robust, rustic red with dark red currants and cedar notes. Good tannic grip so decant for 2 hours or, better yet, cellar it for a few years. Drink: 2010-2014.  562975  12.50%  XD  750 mL  $21.00  Score: 88/100. May 29, 2010
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Château De Fonbel Merlot Blend 2006, A.C., St-Émilion, Bordeaux, France: Classic Bordeaux nose with cassis, blackcurrant, lead pencil, violets and cigar box. I love the balancing acidity on this full-bodied red. It has depth, length and elegance. Drink: 2010-2016.  563270  13%  XD  750 mL  $29.00  Score: 90/100. May 29, 2010
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Château Certan De May Cabernet Sauvignon 2006, A.C., Pomerol, Bordeaux, France: Elegant and balanced with terrific finesse. The fruit is there but restrained and in harmony with the other elements such as the acidity, tannin and oak aromas. This is a wine for the cellar. A classic Bordeaux. Drink: 1012-2022.  566356  13.50%  XD  750 mL  $145.00  Score: 89/100. May 29, 2010
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Marchesi de Frescobaldi Tenuta Di Castiglioni Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot Cabernet Franc Sangiovese 2007, I.G.T., Tuscany, Italy: Big honkin’ purple plums and blueberries with kirsch liqueur running right the heart of this whopper wine. Supple and pow!  145920  14%  XD  750 mL  $21.95  Score: 89/100. May 29, 2010
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Remo Farina Montefante Classico Amarone Della Valpolicella 2003, D.O.C., Veneto, Italy: Terrific Amarone! Black cherry liqueur with that alluring bitter Italianate aromas that makes the cuisine and drink of this culture fascinating. Full-bodied, supple yet not heavy or alcoholic at all, even though the actually alcohol level is a whopping 15%. Bring it on! Drink: 2010-2020.  63636  15%  XD  750 mL  $59.95  Score: 93/100. May 29, 2010 Favourite Red Wine.
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Volpaia Chianti Classico 2007, D.O.C.G., Tuscany, Italy: Pleasantly bitter cherries and cranberries with a full-bodied weight and smooth texture. Good grip so it needs decanting for 1-2 hours. Be sure to pair it with food rather than drink as an aperitif.  953828  13%  XD  750 mL  $22.95  Score: 88/100. May 29, 2010
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Sileni Estates Selection Merlot 2008, Hawkes Bay, North Island, New Zealand: Vintages Wine Panel: This full-flavoured Merlot has garnered numerous awards at wine competitions throughout the world. Filled with cherry/berry aromas and flavours, this finely balanced wine will reward a brief stay in the cellar (1-2 years) or enjoy it tonight. My note: Good acidic bite makes this an ideal food companion. Lovely fleshy plum and berry notes. Medium-bodied and silky.  164004  13%  D  750 mL  $16.95  Score: 88/100. May 29, 2010
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Vinha D'ervideira Colheita Seleccionada 2007, D.O.C., Alentejo, Portugal: Vintages Wine Panel: The judges at the 2009 Challenge International du Vin competition were taken with this wine and awarded it a Silver Medal. Our panel was equally impressed. Its aromas of spice cake, sweet berries, black cherry, plum and wood smoke are vibrant. Dry, fruity, mouth-filling, and wonderfully balanced by a fine seam of acidity and supple tannins. Full bodied and very long finishing. An exceptional wine. My note: Old World, rustic, dirty (good) wine with dust, leather and blackberries. This is an acquired taste but it’s fabulously fascinating. Decant 1-2 hours  168773  13.50%  XD  750 mL  $15.95  Score: 87/100. May 29, 2010
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Vriesenhof Kallista Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Franc 2004, W.O., Stellenbosch, South Africa: Classic Bordeaux nose of cassis, pencil shavings, blackcurrant and smoke but with the added vibrancy of South African fruit and mouth-watering acidity. One for the cellar. Drink: 2010-2016.  160093  13.50%  XD  750 mL  $27.95  Score: 90/100. May 29, 2010
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Navarrsotillo Magister Bibendi Crianza 2005, D.O.C.A., Rioja, Spain: Vintages Wine Panel: Features aromas of cherry, cola, wood smoke, and leather which segue beautifully to flavours of concentrated plum, blackcurrant, strawberry, chocolate and spicy oak. Full bodied, packed with flavour and silky tannins, and finishes with good length. My note: Rustic, robust and ready to go. Cedar and black cherry. Supple but it could stand 1-2 hours of decanting to get it together. This wine contains 8 mg/L of free sulphur.  118125  14%  D  750 mL  $15.95  Score: 87/100. May 29, 2010
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Artesa Reserve Tempranillo 2005, Alexander Valley, California, United States: Vintages Wine Panel: Old World meets New World here. This smooth, medium- to full-bodied California Tempranillo is loaded with flavours of ripe dark fruit, wood smoke, tar, and crisp cherry on the mid-palate, marked by a good brace of acidity on the long dry finish. A fine complement for a variety of smoked meats and grilled vegetables. My note: Different in a good way: savoury bacon and meaty notes overlaid with purple plums. Now stay with me, it’s delicious. Spices and a supple velvet texture. Why not try just one bottle at least?  67272  13.80%  D  750 mL  $18.95  Score: 90/100. May 29, 2010
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[ Compress ] Rosés

Château Val Joanis Tradition Syrah Rosé 2009, A.C., Luberon, Rhône, France: Vintages Wine Panel: Berry nose following through on the palate with some citrus-infused flavours. It’s medium bodied, smoothly textured, and quite refreshingly dry on its lengthy finish. A terrific back-patio sipper. My note: Light and lovely with eternity in mind. Ethereal notes of strawberry and rose petal; it floats along outside of consciousness, especially if you drink enough of it.  707281  13.50%  D  750 mL  $14.95  Score: 88/100. May 29, 2010 Best Value Rosé.
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Clos Du Bois Syrah Merlot 2008, Sonoma County, California, United States: Very New World with juicy fruit ripe raspberry flavours. Big acidity.  120253  13%  D  750 mL  $15.95  Score: 87/100. May 29, 2010
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[ Compress ] Sparkling Wine

Georges Gardet Cuvée Saint Flavy Brut Champagne, A.C., Champagne, France: Crisp and fresh with green apple notes and terrific mousse. Classically made with terrific length.  924654  12%  XD  750 mL  $39.95  Score: 88/100. May 29, 2010 Best Value Sparkling Wine.
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[ Compress ] Dessert Wine

Graham's Port 2007, Portugal: Decadent and delicious! This superb port delivers on every dimension: concentration, depth and length. It's loaded with black plum liqueur, kirsch, blackberry jam aromas and flavours. Supple, full-bodied with a spicy, everlasting finish.  140202  20%  S  750 mL  $85.00  Score: 100/100. May 29, 2010 Favourite Dessert Wine.
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Broadbent Rainwater Medium-Dry Vinhos Justino Henriques, Filhos Madeira, D.O.C., Portugal: Broadbent’s non-vintage Rainwater Madeira is designed to taste identical year in and year out. Fascinating and different. Dried fig, chalky dry finish even though it is a sweet wine. Plum jam.  943258  19%  MD  750 mL  $17.95  Score: 88/100. May 29, 2010
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