Vintages Wine Picks December 6, 2008

by Natalie MacLean

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[ Compress ] White Wine

Malivoire Wine Company Gewurztraminer, Ontario 2006, V.Q.A. Niagara Peninsula, Canada: Won the Gold Medal for Gewurztraminer at the Ontario Wine Awards 2008. Lovely notes of orange peel, lychee, rose petals, light spices and white peaches. 542522 13% D 750 mL $26.00 Score: 92/100. December 6, 2008
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Santa Rita Floresta Sauvignon Blanc 2007, Leyda Valley, Chile: Lovely ripe pears, white flowers and citrus notes. Rich and robust with an opulent mouth-feel. 680959 12% D 750 mL $19.95 Score: 91/100. December 6, 2008
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Kuhlmann-Platz Riesling 2003, A.C. Alsace Grand Cru, Schoenenbourg, France: Vintages Wine Panel: The area of Hunawihr is known for producing Rieslings with a distinctive minerality, and racy grapefruit flavors. This is a fine and rounder example, filled out by notes of lime on the palate. It will go exceptionally well with buttery fish or seafood dishes, or even with sushi. My note: Refreshing attack with a vibrant finish. Lovely notes of pear and citrus on the palate. 80515 13% D 750 mL $23.95 Score: 89/100. December 6, 2008
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Josmeyer Les Folastries Gewurztraminer 2005, A.C. Alsace, France: Vintages Wine Panel: Showing off attractive aromas of peony, grapefruit and lychee, this wine features a beautifully restrained quality on the palate that brings the aromatics perfectly into alignment. This slightly drier quality makes it an excellent partner for a variety of foods from spicy Thai to vindaloo chicken to stuffed pork tenderloin. It will also work with a vast array of fish and seafood dishes. My note: Gorgeously balanced and elegant Gewurz with classic notes of lychee, rose petal and lime. 81281 12% MD 750 mL $33.95 Score: 93/100. December 6, 2008
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Bouchard Pere and Fils Meursault Genevrieres 2006, A.C. Burgundy, France: Layers of warm toast, vanilla, spice, brioche, hazelnut and green apples create an enticing Chardonnay with great finesse and balance. This has classic Old World lines and a long finish. Drink: 2008-2018. 87049 13% XD 750 mL $101.95 Score: 93/100. December 6, 2008 Favorite White Wine.
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Balthasar Ress Riesling Kabinett 2007, Q.B.A. Rheingau, Germany: Vintages Wine Panel: Balthasar Ress is blessed with access to some of the finest vineyards in the Rheingau like the Schützenhaus vineyard near the village of Hattenheim. The 2007 vintage is yet another dynamic, flavorful, beautifully balanced Riesling that is made with laser beam precision. A fantastic value. My note: Loaded with citrus notes and great minerality. Refreshing vibrancy on the palate. 735241 10% MD 750 mL $18.95 Score: 89/100. December 6, 2008
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Schloss Schonborn Riesling 2001, Q.B.A. Rheingau, Germany: Vintages Wine Panel: A very good example that shows even humble QbA wines, from a good house, are capable of cellar life. This one will offer good returns after a cellar stay. My note: A perfect aperitif or dinner companion when you want something light. Lovely notes of lime and peach. Light- to medium-bodied. 81836 9% MD 750 mL $15.95 Score: 88/100. December 6, 2008 Best Value White.
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Wegeler Riesling Spatlese 2007, Q.M.P. Wehlener Sonnenuhr, Germany: Vintages Wine Panel: 2007 was another exception vintage for Germany. The aromas suggest slate, lime blossom and fruit, plus a hint of peach. The ripeness is impressive and the balancing acidity is even better. The sweetness and acidity play with and against each other, leading to a long, balanced finish. This wine is capable of greatness, so age it 5-10 years. My note: From one of the country’s best producers, this wine is highly aromatic with notes citrus and white flowers. Terrific mouth-watering acidity makes it ideal for food. Great length, elegance and balance Drink: 2008-2015. 87452 11% MS 750 mL $33.95 Score: 94/100. December 6, 2008
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Dr. Von Bassermann Jordan Riesling Kabinett 2007, Q.M.P. Deidesheimer Paradiesgarten, Germany: Mouth-awakening notes of pink grapefruit, lime, orange peel and daisies. Refreshing and invigorating. Great length. 988147 10% MD 750 mL $25.95 Score: 90/100. December 6, 2008
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Henschke Tilly's Vineyard Semillon Chardonnay Sauvignon Blanc 2006, Barossa Valley, South Australia: A blend of 55% Semillon, 25% Chardonnay and 20% Sauvignon Blanc yields notes of lemon, lime, orange peel and honeysuckle blossom. Terrific minerality and elegance. A long, clean finish. One of my favorite Australian producers for both reds and whites. 656264 13% D 750 mL $27.95 Score: 90/100. December 6, 2008
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Beringer Vineyards Private Reserve Chardonnay 2006, Napa Valley, California, United States: A balanced and elegant Chardonnay with notes of ripe pears, apples, toasty oak and butter. This full-bodied wine has a long, integrated finish. 26682 D 750 mL $49.95 Score: 92/100. December 6, 2008
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[ Compress ] Red Wine

Zolo Reserve Malbec 2005, Mendoza, Argentina: The grapes for this wine come from four estate vineyards in the Mendoza region. The wine was then aged for 12 months in French and American oak. The result is a full-bodied red loaded with blueberries, vanilla, coffee, cocoa and blackberries. Nicely balanced with decent length on the finish. 81091 13% D 750 mL $16.95 Score: 90/100. December 6, 2008 Best Value Red Wine.
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Goulart Reserva Malbec 2006, Mendoza, Argentina: Luscious notes of black cherry, plums and blackberry. Velvet texture with many layers of flavor on the palate. Lip-smacking delicious with full-bodied weight. 83683 15% D 750 mL $18.95 Score: 89/100. December 6, 2008
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Penley Estate Condor Cabernet Shiraz 2006, Coonawarra, South Australia, Australia: A blend of 55% Cabernet Sauvignon and 45% Shiraz, this deep, delicious, robust red has aromas of cigar box, blackberries, and vanilla smoke. 731893 15% D 750 mL $22.95 Score: 91/100. December 6, 2008
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Le Clos Jordanne Village Reserve Pinot Noir 2006, V.Q. A. Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada: A growing favorite of mine, this Pinot has luscious ripe red cherry fruit and smoky, earthy notes underneath. Pure, balanced and ultra-seductive. A terrific value for what’s in the bottle. This one is the least pricey of the five Pinots this winery produces. Medium-bodied with an elegant, long finish. Drink: 2008-2015. 33894 12% XD 750 mL $30.00 Score: 90/100. December 6, 2008
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Concha Y Toro Don Melcho Cabernet Sauvignon 2005, Maipo Valley, Chile: Chile continues to represent incredible value, even at the high end. This tasty wine is bursting with black fruit, cedar, pencil and mocha. Layers of depth and complexity with a long finish. Drink: 2008-2013. 315176 14% D 750 mL $61.95 Score: 94/100. December 6, 2008
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Estampa Gold 2004, Colchagua Valley, Chile: Anise, black plums and smoke on the nose with some chewy tannins and full-bodied warmth on the palate. 47522 14% D 750 mL $17.95 Score: 91/100. December 6, 2008
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Tarapaca Gran Reserva Black Label Cabernet Sauvignon 2005, Maipo Valley, Chile: Vintages Wine Panel: This 100% Cabernet Sauvignon is sourced from Tarapacá’s Ex-Zavala vineyards and vinified in stainless steel. Aged in French oak barrels for 12 months, the wine then spends an additional year maturing in bottle before release. This intense wine displays cassis and ripe blackberry fruit aromas and flavors as well as notes of black pepper, chocolate and spices. My note: Terrific balance and richness on the palate with enticing aromas of black fruit and smoke on the nose. Full-bodied. 81190 14% D 750 mL $19.95 Score: 89/100. December 6, 2008
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Gigondas La Cave La Reference Gigondas Syrah Blend 2006, A.C. Rhone Valley, France: Vintages Wine Panel: Rich olive tapenade, coffee, blackberry, plum, and strawberry aromas and flavors dominate this beautifully balanced, well-structured wine. Dry and very elegant. My note: On the nose, coffee, black raspberry, cigar box and spice. Layers of flavor and depth with a long finish. Full-bodied with great finesse. Drink: 2008-2015. 101535 13% XD 750 mL $21.95 Score: 90/100. December 6, 2008
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Merlot Blend 2005, A.C. Côtes de Castillon, France: Heralded as one of the best wines that this estate has produced, this red offers generous aromas of black cherry, tobacco, licorice, and smoke. Full-bodied but supple. It’s a blend of 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc. Drink: 2008-2014. 501205 13% XD 750 mL $47.95 Score: 93/100. December 6, 2008
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Louis Jadot Chateau Des Jacques Beaujolais 2005, A.C. Moulin A Vent, France: Silky texture and bursting with ripe cherries, tobacco, fresh earth and minerals. Drink: 2008-2010. 700187 13% XD 750 mL $33.95 Score: 92/100. December 6, 2008
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Château de Beaucastel Syrah Blend 2005, A.C. Rhone Valley, Chateauneuf-Du-Pape, France: One of the region’s best wines. This massively concentrated, intense wine has notes of game, black cherries, dried herbs, cedar, garrigue, violets, earth and smoke. The Mourvedre grape leads in this blend. Full-bodied with a terrific warm finish. Decants for 2 hours. Moderate tannins in the finish. Drink: 2010-2030. 711317 13% XD 750 mL $90.95 Score: 94/100. December 6, 2008
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1995, A.C. Margaux, Bordeaux, France: A banner vintage for Bordeaux that is now at peak drinking. This robust Cabernet blend has lots of black fruits, mineral depth and a lovely, long finish. Drink: 2008-2012. 72124 12% XD 750 mL $129.95 Score: 93/100. December 6, 2008
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Café Culture Cabernet Sauvignon Blend 1998, A.C. Saint-Emilion Grand Cru Bordeaux, France: A beautifully balanced and elegant red with classic Merlot-Cabernet blend notes of black plum, cassis and blackberry. Wrapped in a wisp of smoky oak with some cedar notes in the background. Full-bodied with a long finish. Drink: 2008-2020. 72140 13% XD 750 mL $122.95 Score: 91/100. December 6, 2008
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Jean Claude Boisset Beaune Les Bressandes 2005, Burgundy, France: Ripe cherries, black raspberries, smoke and violets on the nose. Full-bodied with a long finish. Drink: 2009-2025. 84483 13% D 750 mL $58.95 Score: 91/100. December 6, 2008
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Chateau Moulin D'angludet Cabernet Sauvignon Blend 2004, A.C. Margaux, Bordeaux, France: This is the second wine of Château d’Angludet, which means you usually get a bargain because it receives the same love and attention from the winemaker, but may come from grapes that are not deemed as first-rate as those for the flagship wine. The Sichel family owns this estate and is known for the quality of their wines. This is full-bodied, balanced and elegant with black fruit and cigar box on the nose. Drink: 2008-2014. 87734 13% XD 750 mL $38.95 Score: 90/100. December 6, 2008
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Clos De L'Oratoire Des Papes Des Papes Syrah Blend 2006, A.C. Rhone Valley, Chateauneuf-Du-Pape, France: Back cherry liqueur with purple plums, blackcurrants, anise and coffee smoke. Full-bodied with an incredibly long finish. Drink: 2009-2018. 993279 14% D 750 mL $40.95 Score: 92/100. December 6, 2008
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Masi Serego Alighieri Vaio Amaron 2003, D.O.C., Italy: Family tradition plays an important part in the winemaking for this producer, whose ancestor was the poet Dante Alighieri. While this wine doesn’t have infernal heat, it certainly offers warm layers of ripe black fruit, smoke, violets, pencil and vanilla. Drink: 2008-2018. 462812 15% D 750 mL $77.95 Score: 91/100. December 6, 2008
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Masi Mazzano Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico 2003, D.O.C., Italy: Vintages Wine Panel: Production for this single-vineyard Amarone is very limited. From the very warm and dry 2003 vintage, this wine was aged for three years in oak and a further six months in bottle. Its bouquet of cinnamon, violets, plums, candied fruit and spices resounds splendidly on the lush, full-bodied palate and lingers on the long finish. My note: Another strong showing for Masi Amarone. Massive aromas of black cherry, black plums, spices, smoke and cedar. Full-bodied, rich and deep with a long finish Drink: 2008-2023. 545129 15% D 750 mL $102.95 Score: 94/100. December 6, 2008
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Masi Campolongo Di Torbe Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico 2003, D.O.C, Italy: Vintages Wine Panel: Sourced from a centuries-old vineyard, this extremely limited Amarone from Masi is delicious now but has decades of cellaring potential. Aged for three years in oak and a further six months in bottle, this powerful, full-bodied wine is layered with intense aromas and flavors of baked cherries, dried plums, blackberries, vanilla and sweet spices. A powerful wine that is nonetheless elegant. A must-have for Amarone’s ardent fans and collectors. My note: A masterful producer of Amarone. This wine is loaded with black cherry liqueur notes as well as pencil, dried herbs and baked earth. Drink: 2008-2035. 548677 16% D 750 mL $93.95 Score: 93/100. December 6, 2008
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Fattoria La Ripa Collazi Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot Cabernet Franc 2005, I.G.T. Tuscany, Italy: Full-bodied warmth with notes of black cherry, raspberry, smoke and mocha on the nose. Supple textures and layers with with a great finish. A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Drink: 2008-2015. 656538 13% XD 750 mL $46.95 Score: 93/100. December 6, 2008
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Tenuta Dell'ornellaia 2005, D.O.C. Tuscany, Italy: 2005 was the 20th vintage of Ornellaia. Lovely depth and complexity with layers of blackcurrant and dark plums. Silky tannins and a gorgeous mouth-feel: sit back and savor it. Long finish. Drink: 2011-2035. 722470 13% XD 750 mL $158.95 Score: 96/100. December 6, 2008
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Seghesio Family Vineyards La Villa Barolo Vigneto 2004, D.O.C.G., Italy: A big whopper of a wine with tarry and black fruit notes. An underpinning of violets and vanilla smoke lift the mid-palate before a long, satisfying finish. Aged in small oak barrels, 50% of which were new. Drink: 2010-2025. 96800 14% XD 750 mL $64.95 Score: 92/100. December 6, 2008
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Hunter's Wines Pinot Noir 2007, Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand: Lovely supple wine with rich ripe cherry and strawberry notes, fresh earth and violets. Great finish. 586115 13% D 750 mL $20.95 Score: 90/100. December 6, 2008
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Kim Crawford Awanga Vineyard Merlot 2004, Hawkes Bay, North Island, New Zealand: Merlots for New Zealand generally offer rich fruit flavors, as this one does, but with a refreshing vibrancy on the mid-palate from the cool climate acidity. Notes of blue plums and berries. Great texture, balance and length. Drink: 2008-2012. 990887 13% D 750 mL $24.95 Score: 90/100. December 6, 2008
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St. David's Bench Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Blend Equueleus 2005, V.Q.A. Niagara Penisula, Ontario, Canada: A Bordeaux blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (50%), Cabernet Franc (25%) and Merlot (25%), this robust red is balanced and elegant. It delivers notes of blackberries, blackcurrant, cassis and black cherries all wrapped up in an alluring smoky blanket. Drink: 2009-2015. 319525 14% XD 750 mL $40.00 Score: 91/100. December 6, 2008
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Shiraz 2003, McLaren Vale, South Australia: Hardy Wine Company’s flagship Shiraz, ‘Eileen Hardy’, was first made in 1973 to celebrate the family matriarch’s 80th birthday. It continues to be Hardy’s finest Shiraz. The 2003 was not reviewed at press time, but year after year it is praised by the critics for its structure, style, finesse and balance. Expect more of the same with this vintage. My note: A cult classic in Australia, this robust red offers aromas of black plum, smoke, vanilla, blackberry and spice. Drink: 2008-2012. 461368 14% XD 750 mL $88.95 Score: 94/100. December 6, 2008 Best Value Dessert Wine.
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Yalumba The Menzies Cabernet Sauvignon 2004, Coonawarra, South Australia: Dense, brooding and concentrated, this robust red delivers aromas of blackberry, cassis, blackcurrant and toasty oak. Smoky coffee notes on the finish make this warmly satisfying 473645 14% D 750 mL $49.95 Score: 93/100. December 6, 2008
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Gabbiano Shiraz Grenache 2006, Barossa Valley, South Australia: A blend of 70% Shiraz and 30% Grenache. On the nose, black cherries, pepper and anise. Nice smoke and vanilla warmth in the background. 47605 D 750 mL $26.95 Score: 92/100. December 6, 2008
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Cockfighter's Ghost Shiraz 2004, McLaren Vale, South Australia: Mocha, black plums and blackberries on the nose with a smoky finish and a tinge of vanilla at the tail end. Drink: 2008-2015. 595439 14% D 750 mL $24.95 Score: 91/100. December 6, 2008
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d'Arenberg The Dead Arm Shiraz 2006, McLaren Vale, South Australia: A concentrated, blockbuster of a wine with notes of black cherry liqueur, anise, cedar and blackberry. Almost jammy in its intensity, but satisfyingly so. A long, warm finish. Decants 2 hours. Drink: 2008-2013. 981183 13% D 750 mL $55.95 Score: 92/100. December 6, 2008
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d'Arenberg The Footbolt Shiraz 2005, McLaren Vale, South Australia: Concentrated and meaty with robust notes of black cherries, purple plums, coffee, mocha and spice. Nice mouth-watering acidity for food. Drink: 2008-2014. 984021 14% XD 750 mL $21.95 Score: 90/100. December 6, 2008
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Torbeck Run Rig 2004, Barossa Valley, South Australia: This icon wine is a blend of 96.5% Shiraz and 3.5% Viognier and has been aged for 30 months in French oak. The wine is massive, loaded with black fruit, pencil, purple plum, dried herbs and coffee. Terrific layers of flavor and depth. Drink: 2009-2030. 997874 15% XD 750 mL $274.95 Score: 97/100. December 6, 2008 Favorite Red Wine.
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Julian Chivite Gran Feudo Vinas Viejas Reserva Tempranillo Blend 2003, Navarra, Spain: Vintages Wine Panel: Julian Chivite, who died in 1997, came from a Navarra-based winemaking family. His Viñas Viejas, a Tempranillo blend, is made from his 45-65-year-old vines. Chivite was a bit of a traditionalist: “Great wines,” he said, “are made from vineyards that have been properly cultivated, and fine wines from such vineyards have finesse and complexity”. This wine is proof in a bottle of his philosophy. My note: A terrific producer across the board (I especially love his roses), this bottling offers rich, ripe notes of black fruit and vanilla smoke. Full-bodied with good balance. 948067 12% D 750 mL $19.95 Score: 89/100. December 6, 2008
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Sterling Vineyards Three Palms Vineyard Merlot 2004, Napa Valley, California, United States: I’ve long admired this classic Merlot. It’s rich and redolent of black cherries, plums, coffee, dried herbs and cedar. Long finish. Decant 1-2 hours. Drink: 2008-2016. 387860 13% XD 750 mL $95.95 Score: 92/100. December 6, 2008
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Shafer One Point Five Cabernet Sauvignon 2005, Napa Valley, California, United States: A classic California cab with great bones! I mean excellent structure, balance and finish. Lovely fleshy fruit with notes of cassis and blackberries and wisp of smoke running through it. Drink: 2008-2015. 45476 14% D 750 mL $77.95 Score: 93/100. December 6, 2008
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Rodney Strong Wine Estates Cabernet Sauvignon 2004, Alexander Valley, Sonoma, California, United States: A solid producer that consistently turns out balanced and well-structured wines. This Cab has classic notes of blackcurrant, cassis and blackberry, along with some alluring notes of smoke, vanilla and dark spice. Robust tannins mean that you should decant for at least an hour. Drink: 2008-2012. 50427 13% D 750 mL $33.95 Score: 93/100. December 6, 2008
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Far Niente Cabernet Sauvignon 2005, Oakville, Napa Valley, California, United States: Yes it’s pricey but it’s gorgeous. Layers of black plums, blackberry, kirsch and cedar smoke. Smoothly textured with silky tannins and a long, lovely finish. Drink: 2008-2016. 539098 14% XD 750 mL $140.95 Score: 95/100. December 6, 2008
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Ridge Three Valleys Zinfandel 2006, Sonoma County, California, United States: A blend of 80% Zinfandel, 10% Petite Sirah, 5% Carignan, 5% Grenache. Ridge is famous for its Zinfandels: some would call these benchmark wines for California and the world. Opulent blackberries, plums, currants, spice, meat and smoke. 652875 14% XD 750 mL $29.95 Score: 94/100. December 6, 2008
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Fess Parker The Big Easy Syrah 2004, Sanata Barbara County, California, United States: Loaded with black plums, black pepper, dried herbs, pencil, blackberries and earth. Full-bodied with polished tannins. Long finish. Drink: 2008-2012. 718452 14% D 750 mL $40.95 Score: 91/100. December 6, 2008
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Chateau Montelena Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2005, Napa Valley, California, United States: Made from Cabernet Sauvignon grapes grown in the Calistoga region. Full-bodied with a velvet texture. Lots of black fruit, cedar and spice for a gorgeous taste experience. 718452 14% XD 750 mL $51.95 Score: 90/100. December 6, 2008
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Sterling Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2004, Napa Valley, California, United States: A blend of 7% Petit Verdot, 4% Merlot and 2% Syrah. Loaded with blackberry, purple plum, kirsch, dried herbs and toasty oak. Full-bodied with robust tannins. Decant for 1-2 hours. Drink: 2009-2015. 92346 14% XD 750 mL $85.95 Score: 92/100. December 6, 2008
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Silver Oak Cabernet Sauvignon 2003, Alexander Valley, Sonoma, California, United States: One of California’s stalwarts, this cab offers notes of black cherries, blackberries and cassis. A smoky cigar-box finish. Drink: 2008-2015. 943472 14% XD 750 mL $72.95 Score: 90/100. December 6, 2008
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[ Compress ] Rosés

Domaines Ott Rosé 2007, A.C. Cotes de Provence, France: Love the funky bottle. Here’s pale Rosé for you: delicate but bursting with flavor. A wine of contradictions and one of my favorite Rosés, along with Tavel from the Rhone. Men most assured of their sexuality should drink this wine, and women, of course, should dive nose in. Aromas of ripe, field-picked strawberries and raspberries. Fresh and refreshing. Vintages Wine Panel: The wines of Domaines Ott are revelatory. Filled with flavor and impeccably balanced, they are the pinnacle of Provence. The Holy Grail of rosés, it’s the sort of wine the cognoscenti whisper about. 74617 13% D 750 mL $42.95 Score: 91/100. December 6, 2008 Favorite Rosé.
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[ Compress ] Sparkling Wine

Henry of Pelham Estate Winery Cuvee Catharine Brut Sparkling Wine, Niagara, Ontario, Canada: One of Ontario's (and Canada's) benchmark bubblies. Aromas of ripe green apples, lime, and white peach all wrapped in a toasty blanket. Medium-bodied with great persistence of flavour. Refreshing, zesty and ultimately celebratory! Don't just toast weddings, anniversaries and birthdays, raise a glass to life and make it a celebration with this wine tonight. In my Drinks Matcher tool, I pair this bubbly with many dishes. Drink: 2009-2012. 616441 12% D 750 mL $29.95 Score: 90/100. December 6, 2008
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Inniskillin Wines Sparking Icewine 2006, V.Q.A. Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada: Vintages Wine Panel: Decadent and luxurious, Inniskillin’s sparkling Icewine combines the best of both wine styles. A fabulous finish to a celebratory meal, this fine fizz displays intense aromas of honey, apricots and dried fruits. The luscious sweetness is balanced by the lively acidity and a refined mousse. My note: I’ve always been intrigued and delighted with this unique combination of effervescence and fruit sweetness. The first gives refreshment, the second gives satisfaction. Together they make a wonderful bubbly that’s incredibly versatile and can be consumed before, during or after the meal. Drink: 2008-2020. 86884 9% XD 750 mL $69.95 Score: 93/100. December 6, 2008
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Moet and Chandon Chardonnay Pinot Meunier Pinot Noir Dom Périgonon 2000, Champagne A.C., France: Purported to be the father of all Champagne, Dom Pérignon continues to impress generation after generation. This ultimate anniversary or birthday celebration bubbly is only made in the greatest years. Loaded with stylish aromas of citrus, artisanal bread, green apple, mineral and pear, this is quite dry and vibrantly refreshing on the palate. Expect to be impressed. Includes gift box. Part of the Vintages Essentials Collection. My note: A robust, delicious and complexly layered champagne with rich aromas of toast, brioche, pear and apple. An extraordinarily long finish. 280461 XD 750 mL $219.95 Score: 96/100. December 6, 2008
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Louis Roederer Non-Vintage Brut Rosé 2003, A.C. Champagne, France: Vintages Wine Panel: The 2003 vintage in Champagne is destined to be legendary. While far from ‘classic’, the very warm, drought-like conditions have made for some fascinating expressions of the world’s best bubblies that are a must-have for Champagne collectors and enthusiasts. The Roederer House is among the elite Champenoise that chose to embrace the unique qualities of this historic vintage. This rosé blends 70% Pinot Noir with 30% Chardonnay. Aged on its lees for four years, this rich and complex Champagne has generous ripe red berry fruit aromas and flavors with floral accents. Dry, full-bodied with a creamy texture, it’s bold Champagne. My note: A full-bodied and complex Champagne with layers of dark cherries and strawberries from the Pinot Noir in the blend as well as violets, nutmeg and toast. A stupendously long finish. Is there anything more festive during the holidays than pink bubbly? Float a raspberry on top. These folks also make the coveted Cristal Champagne. I visited Louis Roederer in chapter three of my book red, White and Drunk All Over to discover the secrets behind top bubblies. I highly recommend a visit if you’re ever in the Champagne region. Drink: 2008-2015. 368415 12% XD 750 mL $88.95 Score: 97/100. December 6, 2008 Favorite Sparkling Wine.
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Charles Heidsieck Pinot Noir Pinot Meunier Chardonnay Champagne Brut Reserve, A.C., France: A vibrant and refreshing bubbly with aromas of toasty oak, white flowers and citrus. Great balance, delicacy and finish. Drink: 2008-2012. 36962 12% XD 750 mL $59.95 Score: 94/100. December 6, 2008
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Krug Pinot Noir Pinot Meunier Chardonnay Champagne Non-Vintage Brut, A.C., France: A stunning Champagne of great complexity and depth. Notes of toasty smoke, lime and green apple. Elegant, balanced and full-bodied. A long, satisfying finish. Part of the Vintages Essentials Collection. Drink: 2008-2015. 38562 12% XD 750 mL $269.95 Score: 95/100. December 6, 2008
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Drappier Non-Vintage Brut, Champagne, France: Vivacious bubbly with warm layered notes of apricot, honey and faint cinnamon spice. Creamy and rich with a long finish. 599860 12% XD 750 mL $50.95 Score: 93/100. December 6, 2008
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Pol Roger Extra Cuvee Reserve Champagne Brut 1999, A.C., France: A refined, smooth and complex bubbly with notes of citrus, green apple, and white apricot. Lovely finesse and length on the finish. Drink: 2008-2016. 989137 12% XD 750 mL $82.95 Score: 94/100. December 6, 2008
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Taittinger Prestige Non-Vintage Brut Rosé, A.C. Champagne, France: Vintages Wine Panel: A blend of 70% Pinot Noir and 30% Chardonnay. Featuring gorgeous aromas of strawberry, cherry, orange peel and spice, this complex Champagne is harmonious and beautifully balanced. With a long luxurious finish, this bubbly is shining brilliantly right now. My note: A lovely pink bubbly with aromas of ripe raspberries and strawberries. A toasty finish makes this wine refreshing and satisfying. Drink: 2008-2012. 993113 12% D 750 mL $84.95 Score: 92/100. December 6, 2008
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Bellusi Belcanto Spumante Extra Non-Vintage Dry, D.O.C., Italy: Vintages Wine Panel: Italy produces remarkably well-priced and delicious bubblies. This delicious sparkler has notes of lime, orange peel, and smoke. Refreshing and vibrant, it’s an affordable alternative to Champagne for weddings, New Year’s Eve and other celebrations. Terrific aperitif. 53215 11% XD 750 mL $19.95 Score: 88/100. December 6, 2008 Best Value Sparkling Wine.
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Domaine Chandon Blanc De Noirs, California, United States: Vintages Wine Panel: Moët & Chandon, one of Champagne’s most prestigious houses and makers of the legendary Dom Pérignon. Established in the 1970s, Domaine Chandon was the first sparkling wine producer in California to craft wines using the traditional method of Champagne. This festive, ready-to-drink bubbly is soft and elegant with ripe cherry and strawberry aromas as well as notes of vanilla and spice. It’s rich but nicely balanced by a seam of crisp acidity. Classic style and a great value too. My note: I’ve recommended this bubbly as one of my favorites from California for a number of years now. It delivers consistently delicious and refreshing taste at a great price. Notes of ripe berries, toast and vanilla. 100693 13% XD 750 mL $23.95 Score: 91/100. December 6, 2008 Best Value Sparkling Wine.
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Roederer Estate Sparkling Non-Vintage Brut, Anderson Valley, Sonoma, California, United States: A favorite California bubbly that I’ve recommended year after year. This sparkler has notes of yellow apples, toasty oak and a tasty spice finish. Robust and deep so it can handle more flavorful dishes. 294181 12% D 750 mL $28.95 Score: 90/100. December 6, 2008 Best Value Sparkling Wine.
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[ Compress ] Dessert Wine

Konzelmann Estate Winery Vidal Icewine 2006, V.Q.A. Niagara Penisula, Ontario, Canada: Concentrated aromas of baked pears, honey and orange marmalade. Luscious texture that unfurls over the palate. Terrific finish and balance. Drink: 2008-2025. 476192 9% S 375 mL $65.00 Score: 95/100. December 6, 2008
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Inniskillin Wines Riesling Icewine 2007, V.Q. A. Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada: Vintages Wine Panel: Both a pioneer and indefatigable innovator of Icewine, Inniskillin stands as the world leader of Canada’s vinous treasure. The incredible 2007 vintage in Niagara is one for the record books. The ideal conditions meant an earlier-than-usual harvest in January 2008 for this rich, concentrated Icewine. Beautifully balanced, this elegant Riesling displays sweet/tart layers of lemon/lime, honey and orange marmalade leading to a long refreshing finish. Delicious on its own or serve as a luxurious match for fruit, a rich cheese plate or apple crumble and ice cream. My note: Riesling-based icewine is my favorite hands down. It has greater complexity and balance than other grapes because of the terrific combination of acidity and fruit. Notes of ripe pear, apricot, peach and honey. Innskillin certainly knows how to make a masterful icewine. This is truly a benchmark of the breed. 558288 9% S 375 mL $69.95 Score: 93/100. December 6, 2008
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Grand Marnier Cuvee, Du Centenaire, France: Vintages Wine Panel: Grand Marnier’s 100th anniversary cuvée is a blend of primarily Fine Champagne Cognacs that are aged up to 25 years and the essence of the exotic Caribbean orange, Citrus Bigaradia. Opulent, subtly complex and very polished, expect bright and zesty flavors of candied orange, almond and brown spice notes. My note: Lovely layers of orange spiced marmalade, brown sugar, candied walnuts, nutmeg and vanilla. Drink: 2008-2045. 108704 40% S 750 mL $129.95 Score: 95/100. December 6, 2008 Favorite Dessert Wine.
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Hennessy Paradis Cognac Extra Rare, France: Vintages Wine Panel: Eight generations of the Hennessy family have built up what is now the finest collection of old eaux-de-vie in the world and each generation uses it to create Paradis Extra. An explosive array of flavors with a smooth and supple finish is delivered to you in a gorgeous package. Part of the Vintages Essentials Collection. My note: Gorgeous layers of citrus notes, wild field flowers and spices. Full-bodied after-dinner drink. Drink: 2008-2040. 208298 40% 750 mL $652.00 Score: 95/100. December 6, 2008
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Remy Martin Louis X.I.I.I. Cognac, France: Vintages Wine Panel: A magical combination of savoir faire, art and patience. Presented in a luxurious Baccarat Crystal decanter, this carefully crafted Cognac is made from a blend of the most revered of Grande Champagne’s distillates, then aged extensively in old oak barrels from 40 to 100 years. Adored by the likes of Christian Dior, Queen Elizabeth II and Sir Winston Churchill, this smooth and long-finishing Cognac has delicious and complex flavors of fruit, delicate flowers and spices. My note: Sometimes you just want the best, especially if your house is already paid off and the kids have finished college. Well, here’s a cognac for you. Exotic aromas of orange peel, cinnamon, nutmeg, cloves and white flowers. A great after-dinner drink. Drink: 2008-2050. 67090 40% S 700 mL $2,400.00 Score: 99/100. December 6, 2008
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Taylor Fladgate 20-Year-Old Aged Tawny Port, Portugal: Vintages Wine Panel: After 300 years of continual Port production, Taylor Fladgate can rightly claim to be masters at their craft. This ready-to-serve aged Tawny is close to perfection. Rich apricot and dried-fruit flavors and lengthy, nutty, honeyed finish. Just as with the 10-year-old version, once opened this will last for several weeks. My note: I’m a sucker for tawny ports, with their warm toffee, caramel, almond notes. This one has a silky, seductive texture and a long, comforting finish. 149047 20% S 750 mL $68.95 Score: 94/100. December 6, 2008
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Smith Woodhouse Vintage Port 1994, Portugal: A lovely, comforting port for after dinner. Rich, deep layers of black plums, blackberries, smoke, cedar and dried herbs. Full-bodied with an extremely long finish. Drink: 2008-2020. 156885 20% S 750 mL $89.95 Score: 91/100. December 6, 2008
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Port 2001, Portugal: Vintages Wine Panel: A blend of excellent young Ports from two or three harvests and bottled without any fining or filtration, it features complex aromas of sweet black fruit, raisin, dark chocolate and a hint of sweet tobacco. This rare style of Port, a great value alternative to Vintage Port, is worth the adventure. Stand bottle upright to allow its signature ‘crust’ (sediment) to settle and then decant. My note: I love crusted ports and find that they bridge the gap between vintage and tawny ports in their flavor profile. Lovely notes of blackcurrant, plums, cigar box, vanilla and dried herbs. Full-bodied with a long finish for after dinner. Drink: 2008-2020. 726828 40% S 750 mL $32.95 Score: 91/100. December 6, 2008
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St. Supery Moscato 2006, California, United States: Vintages Wine Panel: Made with 100% Muscat Canelli grapes, this brilliant and delicately sweet wine displays aromas and flavors of grape, honey, apricot, nectarine and sweet spices. Medium in sweetness, it nevertheless stays focused and vibrant with its underlying acidity. A lovely wine to serve with a plate of fresh fruit and soft cheeses. My note: Moscato remains an undervalued wine. Try it to discover its playful delights on the palate. Notes of orange blossom and white flowers. 398206 11% M 750 mL $24.95 Score: 90/100. December 6, 2008
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Vintages Wine Picks December 6, 2008

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