Poderi Elia 'Serracapelli' Barbaresco 2004 Wine Review
Poderi Elia 'Serracapelli' Barbaresco 2004
Wine Type: Red Wine
Reviews and Ratings
|Keith Robinson reviewed this wine as follows:|
AB SKU +731040
2004 Poderi Elia 'Serracapelli' Barbaresco
Assessed by: Keith Robinson
Tasted: October 2014
Product Details: Barbaresco, Italy 14% ABV 100% Nebbiolo
Barbaresco is a commune in north-west Italy. Like its more famous neighbour, Barolo, Barbaresco wines are made from the Nebbiolo grape. Barbaresco is less well known perhaps because less is made – about half the production of Barolo.
Although neighbours, the climate and soils of the two areas differ slightly and, so the wines also characteristically differ. Barolo is said to be more masculine – powerful and needing longer aging to reveal its charms. Barbaresco is known as being more immediately enjoyable, feminine, and elegant. In fact the importer of Poderi Elias's wines describes the 04 Serracapelli as “stunningly elegant.” We shall see.
For more on my thoughts on elegance in wine see
Serracapelli is a single vineyard at the northern edge of the Neive village within Barbaresco.
The tasting: Decanted. Bright lifted cherry and violets on nose, hint of alcohol. Palate is all elbows and sharp objects – dislocated heavy tannins and harsh acids. Underlying fruit is strong but overwhelmed by the assault. Elegant? What is wrong with this wine? What is wrong with my palate? All I could think is the Serracapelli needs a hunk of rhinoceros meat, or maybe wooly mammoth to pair.
So I waited. Tasted with other professionals. They said it was boozy and out of balance. One said drinking it was like a roller coaster with twisted broken metal tracks.
So I waited. Six hours after decanting I taste again. Now we are talking. The Serracapelli is settled down. The elbows in my face become arms giving a warm, strong embrace. Nice wine but nothing like the stereotype Barbaresco.
When to drink: Wait! 2016 to 2020. Decant as long as possible – day ahead if you can (really).
Food pairing: If your butcher doesn't have Rhino or mammoth, pair with game.
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