Much thought is given to pairing wines with gourmet dishes or the choicest selections of meat, fish, and poultry. But what about more plebian fare like fries and gravy?

As I headed out of town last week, sommelier and wine writer Natalie MacLean ( asked for my ideas on the best wine to pair with the Quebec specialty known as poutine.

Poutine is the name given north of the border to a concoction of French fries, brown gravy, and melted cheese. Of course, back home in New Jersey, we have our own name for this artery-clogging treat: disco fries, that favorite of the late-night diner crowd. With the Tick Tock Diner and Six Brothers just minutes from my house, I won’t have to drive to Canada if I have a craving for it.

But what wine to pair with poutine? An oaky, buttery Chardonnay would work, but I would probably just grab a beer. At the end of a hard day of skiing this is the kind of comfort food (and drink) that my aching body can use.

Whatever you call it, one thing is for sure: It’ll take a lot of cold climate, resveratrol-rich wine to clear out the fat content of a single serving of fries and gravy.